Every time I think I'm good at 3D printing and am a capable designer, I meet stumble onto a channel like this and it humbles me. You are a master of your craft! Definitely great motivation to keep growing! Thanks for the great content! Still looking forward to the winner of the hot end Olympics!
As always - very huge work on pushing 3d printers to new limits, speeds and quality, like! After adding bearing to my idler I really see the difference, not ideal because I have Z issues unsolved, but it really helps a lot, can't wait when my VZ parts were printed and finally change to rails and oldhams on Z.
What I did to better print flexibles is I used a push trough fitting and then cut a PTFE tube with a V shape where is almost touches the drive wheel. This helps with retraction a loooot. Is cheap and easy. You don´t need to fumble around with your PTFE Tube length, simply push it through the fitting and secure with a clip that´s it. I think this would improve your design too a little.
Clever idea! The design also looks better! Just one thing I am wonder is why you are keeping the M3 nut as the metal threads for the lever tensioning screw instead of a heat insert? I'd think an insert would make it a little easier to print and not have these sharp edges for the nut insertion? I am not concerned about the insert pulling out of the hole as I am using this with my Sherpa for a long time now..
Are the ultra-low-head (socket) bolts really that much better than simple countersunk M3 bolts? The countersunk M3 bolts should have overall more surface area contact due to the angle of contact, and, to add, chamfers and fillets tend to be better at resisting delamination and/or shearing. It's really common practice in metal machining to add chamfers or, even better, fillets for corners to prevent shearing forces from forming cracks etc.
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I would love more of these types of videos. I love hearing your design ideas flow.
Thats what I did on the vz-hextrudort printed version
Vez does the mellow CNC version "account" for this extra space or not? In case it doesn't it's a " V2" to be expected?
Every time I think I'm good at 3D printing and am a capable designer, I meet stumble onto a channel like this and it humbles me. You are a master of your craft! Definitely great motivation to keep growing! Thanks for the great content! Still looking forward to the winner of the hot end Olympics!
As always - very huge work on pushing 3d printers to new limits, speeds and quality, like! After adding bearing to my idler I really see the difference, not ideal because I have Z issues unsolved, but it really helps a lot, can't wait when my VZ parts were printed and finally change to rails and oldhams on Z.
What I did to better print flexibles is I used a push trough fitting and then cut a PTFE tube with a V shape where is almost touches the drive wheel. This helps with retraction a loooot. Is cheap and easy. You don´t need to fumble around with your PTFE Tube length, simply push it through the fitting and secure with a clip that´s it.
I think this would improve your design too a little.
Clever idea! The design also looks better! Just one thing I am wonder is why you are keeping the M3 nut as the metal threads for the lever tensioning screw instead of a heat insert? I'd think an insert would make it a little easier to print and not have these sharp edges for the nut insertion? I am not concerned about the insert pulling out of the hole as I am using this with my Sherpa for a long time now..
Great work and thanks! 👍🏼👍🏼
how much longer for the Mosquito? I'm starting to print parts and just got my RIGDA from Bondtech today............
Are the ultra-low-head (socket) bolts really that much better than simple countersunk M3 bolts?
The countersunk M3 bolts should have overall more surface area contact due to the angle of contact, and, to add, chamfers and fillets tend to be better at resisting delamination and/or shearing. It's really common practice in metal machining to add chamfers or, even better, fillets for corners to prevent shearing forces from forming cracks etc.
Countersunk in these locations wont work as they will apply splitting load to the layer orientation.
@@HevORT Fair enough. I had forgotten to factor-in printed layer orientation xD
Where did you get the ultra low head screws? Looking at Amazon, the 1st thing that came up was $28 for 4 of them.
hi, it would be compatible with different filament diameters...?
This designed is optimized for 1.75. It would not work for 2.85 or 3mm.
What’s your thoughts on the larger gears like in LGX Lite extruder?
Or Orbiter2 or The new Voron Gallileo 2? I would really look forward to some test comparing the Rigda to these larger gear extruders.
Still like to see a Mosquito version of this