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HevORT
Canada
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 5 ม.ค. 2022
Welcome to the HevORT channel! This channel will be used for content dedicated to the HevORT 3D printer:
- Build Instructions
- New configurations and options
- Tips and tricks dedicated to the HevORT printer.
Do not hesitate to contact me via email if there is specific topics you would like me to cover in here :)
See you soon,
MirageC
- Build Instructions
- New configurations and options
- Tips and tricks dedicated to the HevORT printer.
Do not hesitate to contact me via email if there is specific topics you would like me to cover in here :)
See you soon,
MirageC
HevORT ZR2.8 - Why was it never published?
What are the main characteristics of ZR2.8?
www.hevort.com
github.com/MirageC79/HevORT/tree/master/files/Components/ZR_V2.8_DO%20NO%20TUSE
www.hevort.com
github.com/MirageC79/HevORT/tree/master/files/Components/ZR_V2.8_DO%20NO%20TUSE
มุมมอง: 7 667
วีดีโอ
Prepare HextrudORT housing for - RIDGA and Flexible material
มุมมอง 7Kปีที่แล้ว
This channel contains videos of me mumbling in front of my computer.... Here is one on how to ensure the RIDGA from Bondtech can be fitted with good filament containment although it needs to be pressed from the back.
3D Printing with Servos (Video from 2021) - ClearPath Demo
มุมมอง 18Kปีที่แล้ว
This is random footage from testing that I have done using Teknic ClearPath Servo motors back in 2021. These servo worked great and were easy to install, the only downside to them is that even the higher resolution models may still create print artifacts on flat surfaces.
PERFECT Layer Stacking with this System
มุมมอง 15Kปีที่แล้ว
*WARNING: This video contains flashing lights and other stimuli that may affect viewers with photosensitive epilepsy or other health conditions. Viewer discretion is advised. This video has been modified to reduce flashing and reposted. * After over 1 year of running the WobbleX on my printer, I can confirm that there is nothing better out there. They will absorb and cancel all of the wobble th...
Here is my 3D Printer Enclosure - HevORT
มุมมอง 7Kปีที่แล้ว
In this video we are creating an additional configuration of corner bracket for the Acid Bee enclosure of the HevORT 3D Printer. You can find all of the files for this enclosure here: github.com/MirageC79/HevORT/tree/master/files/STL/Enclosure/AcidBee_Enclosure Or here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5188673 This enclosure uses: - 3mm thick side panels - M5 X 12 Button HEad Screws ► s.click.aliexpre...
HevORT ZR2.6 using WobbleX first look
มุมมอง 15Kปีที่แล้ว
First Look at this revised Z axis. A direct fit for users with ZR2.5. Changes so far: - Using SFU1204 WobbleX Z stabilizers: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DECkeWJ - Increased stiffness of the Slider Mount - Increased stiffness of the Motor Mount STLs: github.com/MirageC79/HevORT/tree/master/files/STL/ZR_V2.6 STEP mock up for WobbleX: github.com/MirageC79/Interfaces-for-WobbleX-integration/tree/main...
You doing alright? Haven't seen much from ya.
I have most of the parts to do this sitting at my desk at work 🙄 I should order the rest and put them together finally...this is probably one of the best servo printer videos I have seen yet. The rest are usually show-off shorts.
I've been using Clearpaths on my laser cutter for years, to get the most out of them you have to perform manual tuning. The autotuning is fine but not perfect.
I have lost some of the ball bearing for my z wobble x.. Can someone advise which type of replacement ball bearing I should get? I tried to get some from Amazon but they do not attract to the magnets part of the z wobble x. Which specific ones should I get. Thanks
I have lost some of the ball bearing for my z wobble x.. Can someone advise which type of replacement ball bearing I should get? I tried to get some from Amazon but they do not attract to the magnets part of the z wobble x. Which specific ones should I get. Thanks
I think the artifact that are still visible are from the belts and small pully bearings, facets from the STL (even with arc welder enabled) and the molted plastic consistency.
Have you considered using sensor to map the z ball screw wobble vs z height for each screw and then compensate for that in software rather than build these isolator attachments?
No I did not, I am a mechanical engineer. How would you do that? My guess is that the total oscillation will be the sum of the three screws per their respective current clocking. The nut tilt high variation would need to be addressed some how too. The programming effort sounds a lot more intense than the solution I cam up with. But once again, I am a mechanical engineer.
Please can you make the music more obnoxious?
It looks amazing, but is printing at this speed even a good idea for getting a quality part? I would think that the layer adheasion would suck a lot.
Can you make the dad rock louder please? Still hearing some voice
Sure thing son!
microstepping?
128
This is a great printer, but it is over-engineered.
Yup! :)
Did you consider to use metal 3D printed parts instead of the plastic printed ones? Im wondering the limitations of those parts as well as draw backs, like machining required afterwards or surface problems
Sheesh that has to be a pricey beast.
It's around 500$ to build.... That's what I told my wife anyways... 🤪. One a more serious note you can build one for 2-3k USD depending on size and options selected.
@@HevORT Hahaha that's more what I would expect. Very impressive. Clearly for a select audience. I'd love to have something like that, but also I don't have enough time for my hobbies as is. ;)
The 3-point separately driven Z axis is unnecessary. - Superfluous mechanical elements (hinges, magnets, linear rails) - Redundant electronics (+2pcs stepper motors, +2pcs motor controllers, more expensive motherboard due to + controllers) - Unnecessary procedure (multiple probing, synchronization after each power up) All this can be saved by connecting the 3 axes with a ribbed belt and setting them precisely. Less money less time.... You already have it... I wrote this for others
It all depends on what you are trying to do and the size of the printer you are targeting.
I believe the 3 point system will be adopted more as non-planer 3d printing becomes mainstream, these projects lay the groundwork for future innovation
Yeah but then you need manual leveling
when nextruder follow up video :3
I would love to see someone do a sun/orbiter geared extruder without the concave idler and extruder gear.
Would be very interested in that video too
Imo the auto-bed leveling pivot points and the rails are significantly reducing the bed's rigidity... I think that's why the rest of the printer it is so over-built in an attempt to compensate...
Just to validate your statement, give me an example of what you think is a good Z-Tilt(self-leveling) enabled system? And please, dont mention printers where the leveling is achieved by racking the printer.
@@HevORT None. Manual bed leveling with groove locked knobs. Probe for tramming and easy Z offset.
@@hd-be7diyou think having the bed floating on springs or squishy silicone is rigid? 🤔
@@geometerfpv2804 I made a jig to cut the silicone pads to around 4-5 millimeter thin so they squish very little and get stiff quick. It's rigid enough for my purposes.
For material, a tip is testing out addnorths PC-CF if that abs-cf didn't work out. Recently started using it and it has a temperature rating of 180c, rigid af and prints really well. Pretty course texture though.
Aren't 16mm ballscrews completely overkill for a 3d printer? Especially with the additional linear rails? You have an extremely rigid setup and then you decouple it anyways?
Welcome to these community 3D printer projects 😆 we all seem to like overkill
The purpose is defeated by putting them on horizontal linear rails with ball joints to get a gimmicky auto bed leveling feature...
The ballscrews provide the Z reference and play no role into XY stability of the bed. The rail is taking care of the XY stability. In this design decoupling happens on the ball screw only. Why ballscrews? When using Z hop a typical Benchy will generate 7 times the standard Z travel distance that it would normally take to print the part. This is only a small benchy. larger and more complex parts can generate huge amount of additional Z movements. These small repetitive movements are ideal to rub the lubricant away. After more than three years of using the same ball screws on thousands of ZHop prints, I am still getting 0.0014 mm of backlash over 20 samples (measured with Beacon). Why 16mm? The screws that we buy are cheap, they are manufactured using a rolling process. the material is crushed to shape. The impact of that pressed threading process will affect material all the way to the core on smaller diameter screws. This is why the smaller diameter of these cheap ball screws are difficult to obtain with decent radial runout value. 16mm screws also provides a lower thread angle for the same pitch, increasing the resistance to being back driven by the bed's weight.
@@HevORT I think turning on "avoid crossing perimeters" in the slicer is more effective for reducing nozzle contact with printed area than grinding up the Z axis with constant Z hops.
@@hd-be7di On slower printers, perhaps.
16mm ballscrews in a 3d printer?
I know you're trying to release them as a 3d printed solution anyone can do but... ironically based on my recent fb comment, have you considered having them 3d printed from metal and potentially machining the bearing surfaces. This would eliminate the creep issue and some flex but not really fix the lever arm issue
Yes, I am considering this option ;)
Yes, either that, or «just» make them on a cnc as a flat aluminum piece, anyway thank you for showing us
Thanks for the update. Sometimes, one might think that your projects are flawless, but as many improvements are discovered, new issues arise, therefore learnings that we enjoy when are shared. 🖖🏻
Improvement or over-engineering... Thin line.
First?
yes! and because of that you had the chance to watch this video in SD as youtube is painfully still crunching the HD version! lol
@@HevORT haha. It was in portrait mode on my phone so I didn't need much more lel.
@@HevORT haha :D
Awesome video. Did you tune all servos at the same time, or did you tune each one seperatly? I got a relatively strong wobble on x and y motion and currently try to figure out the problem.
I tuned each motor separately on my CoreXY. I clamped the Belt from the unused servo to lock the system in place.
Great job
5:46 Silent printing.
Going faster to solve problems sounds pretty weird and awesome at the same time😂👍🏼 great work you’re doing there!
I used ClearPath steppers in my CNC build. Love em. Been wanting to know how well they'd work in a 3d printer and if they would indeed be silent. Future project I guess. =)
Why not just use jmc servos?
Every time I think I'm good at 3D printing and am a capable designer, I meet stumble onto a channel like this and it humbles me. You are a master of your craft! Definitely great motivation to keep growing! Thanks for the great content! Still looking forward to the winner of the hot end Olympics!
cant wait to build my own
Sounds like flubber
Nice an all but you can't tell me this is the noice then never stop talking so I can hear it
God damn that printer looks like fun!
hi, it would be compatible with different filament diameters...?
This designed is optimized for 1.75. It would not work for 2.85 or 3mm.
Would it be possible to run 120v AC winch motors off an Octopus Max EZ board using DC to AC relays? Or some other way?
Seems like it’s actually pretty hard to buy them in mainland Europe (the clearpaths i mean) so had to take leadshine 750W AC Servos. But hereto say i‘m doing a bit more than 3d printing.
Hello, I'm currently experimenting with the clearpath motors. Have you got the engines running regarding the M569 T parameters and tuning? I would be very grateful for an exchange.
I mainly ran them using Klipper. RRF had issues to keep up with the amount of steps per second. My M569 was: M569 P5 R0 T2:2:2:2 S0 You can get my servo tuning files here: github.com/MirageC79/HevORT/tree/master/HD/ClearPath_Servos
You say that the high resolution models create artifacts on flat surface. I have these motors (2310s) and the same PSU. and they create waves. I feel I have tested everything. Your prints looks much better. Can you share you duet Timings? (Taa:bb:cc:dd)? I'm still using them because those wavy patterns still annoy me less then that super load NEMA mtoror chirping
Sorry for the delayed reply. Here are my tuning profiles for the ClearPaths: github.com/MirageC79/HevORT/tree/master/HD/ClearPath_Servos And here is an example of my config file: github.com/MirageC79/HevORT/blob/master/firmware/klipper/printer_ClearPathDuet.cfg Hope this helps
@@HevORT np. Thank you
I have the same problem with the wavy pattern. Did you find a solution? When I print slow I have more wave artifacts than printing fast.
@@seelyw.4818 I haven't removed them completely but check cables that they aren't near 230v power cables for interference. That helped a lot but still not completely gone
@jbergene Interesting. Thanks for the reply. I'm going to make some tests. Did you have the wave problem with your ballscrew printer?
you deleted the top design i bought wobble x's and i can't use it on your machine as you deleted the top part of your design, on your ZR on thingiverse it only shows the lower wobblex adapter, but no top one
Sorry about that. I corrected the links in the Video. you can also find a complete model and export options here: a360.co/40QC5G5
What I did to better print flexibles is I used a push trough fitting and then cut a PTFE tube with a V shape where is almost touches the drive wheel. This helps with retraction a loooot. Is cheap and easy. You don´t need to fumble around with your PTFE Tube length, simply push it through the fitting and secure with a clip that´s it. I think this would improve your design too a little.
How to calculate the glass size of the closure for differrent size volumn?
I only see an unusable print lol
Do u know id it Is possible to use those seevi with klipper and raspberry? I'm also curious about the artifacts you indicate in the video description, what kind of artifacts?
Print quality better with servos?
'Promo SM' 👉
I hope that you revisit Servos, not much good info on youtube now that Vez has gone back to steppers. I am finding Odrive to be a bit confusing as well.
Ive always wondered rather than a faster and faster head .... Split the build chamber into 4 and have 4 independent hot ends that overlap. Yeah the control could be more difficult to avoid collisions byt surely that would be faster right??
Thats just 4 3d printers but your design creates a lot of wasted space due to the fatness of a hotend
@@phoenix4193 the thickness from the offset is wasted true.... But each quadrant can be working on parts of the same layer simultaneously so loose 25mm but potentially faster
How is the vibration? 👀
Just fine ;) th-cam.com/video/h-ukClHtai4/w-d-xo.html
how much longer for the Mosquito? I'm starting to print parts and just got my RIGDA from Bondtech today............