Thanks for sharing. Land purchase currently going through and hopefully, I'll be embarking on my self build journey soon. Got a 3 day excavator course lined up first though.
Just started following you as im really interested in all this stuff and right now cannot accept what building companies think they can charge these days for work.
What about the top? I didn't know you used it under the window cills. I am more interested to know how you finish, plasterboard, fibre cement board??? How firm and sound is the closer plastic to attach your finish board? Could do with anothet video please 😊
The top has an insulated catnic style lintel so the cavity is closed there. I'll likely be using eps backed plasterboard on the reveals. Of course I'll do a video when I get to that part 😅 I am rather slow so not got to that bit yet 😆
Haha I'm just filming something about that today! It's not normal to have an inner skin and therefor a cavity closer where your door threshold is. It doesn't seem like there is a definitive answer which solves thermal bridging issues though especially when you are supposed to fit doors/windows overhanging cavities by 30mm. My fix will be out next week if you can wait?
at 1:48 would you not be applying air tight tape to the 90 degree angle where the 2 closers meet so any water running down the vertical wouldn't get out anyway?
I'll be putting the tape on (not got to that point just yet) but that's after I've already put the windows in, so just the back section will be sealed. The windows overlap 30mm into the cavity so unless you've really f'ed up, water shouldn't be getting that far back
You can use window formers whilst you are building, they are pre formed cavity closers like the ones I've used in the video. You usually see them on big new build sites. Otherwise you can fit cavity closers afterwards like I've done here
Great video buddy. Is it possible to fit these after you’ve had a new back door fitted to the outer skin? I have the cavity where the inner skin returns to a vertical DPC, but being 70+ years old, I’m thinking of chopping out that return, clearing out all the debris, and fitting a cavity closer on each side instead.
Humm if you do abit of trimming with an angle grinder along the length of one side then you might be able to squeeze it in. It all depends how far your doors have been set back
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Crikey no, I just realised what a tramp I looked like in my “work” clothes 🤣 I got them from eBay, really good value and far less trampy!!!
50mm seems abit over kill, that would mean it would compress the cavity insulation and leave a cold spot. This manufacturer doesn't give a measurement so I'm sure 5-10mm would be sufficient 👍
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Kingspan makes it very clear on their video that the verticals should overhang the bottom section by 50mm and the head section should overlap the vertical jambs by 50mm to each side here: th-cam.com/video/6W6uj68sYCQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=KingspanInsulationUK But obviously that would apply if you had remembered to build them in during first fix, rather than retrofitting them as commonly happens in the UK.
Hi im building in south west of ireland. Im using 4 inch insulation board and cutting 6 inch strips because my cavity is 6 inches, i presume that will work fine? Im pumping my walls so i just want aomething to stop to beads from pouring out. 4 inch was even abit excessive l. Might prove hard to get into the cavity
Well that will close the cavity yes and shouldn't be too much of an issue to shove in. Not sure what the regs are like over there though so maybe double check with your building inspector. There are 150mm versions of what I used in this video also
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT there is a special cavity closer you can get here in the hardware shops but its alot more pricy than the 4 inch stuff. 4 inch stuff was 55 euro a sheet 1200mm by 2400mm so still saucey enough. By right i should have bough lighter stuff be handier to tap into cavity. The beads will be meeting it anyway. Il see how i get on il tackle it during the week.
Hi there - great video. I’m in the middle of a self build can you give a link for the cavity closer you used please. Also I’ve left 5mm space all around for easy of installation of doors and windows is that enough space for the cavity closers to be installed as I had not allowed for them. Thanks for your help
@@JimStone82 the manufacturer is YBS, lots of places have them and you can get the 150mm ones if you're on new regs. You should be fine with the windows and doors, especially if you went 5mm smaller than your smallest measurement
My builder's gone and fitted the windows and door before these have been fitted. Am I screwed or should I trim the cavity closer and fit on the interior of the window frames.
Eeek, you need to close the cavity for building regs and they should be fitted before windows and doors 😬 Is the builder still around as he should correct this. Maybe have a chat with your building inspector? If your builder hasn't foamed the windows in yet then there's a chance they can be squeezed in. I can't see how trimming them will help
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT - unfortunately, the builder f*cked me over. Took £30k of my money and left with a 70% finished building. By the look of it, I could possibly squeeze the close between the fitted frame and the blockwork. I'll need to dig out foam, adhesive and shims in places.
@@randymch ah well good luck dude, hopefully you don't have too many to do to sort it. You can get single flange cavity closers which you might be able to butt up against the window frame so check them out 👍
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT thanks, I'm building a new house direct labour and doing smaller jobs like the cavity closers etc... and wanted to know the detail... thanks
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT really? Feck it. I went away and got 4 inch kingspan to close my cavity. I came to the house today and the guy that did it for me made a dogs dinner of it. He didnt leave the dpc come out past the reveal in alot of places so iv to rip all the kingspan out again now and re do the whole lot myself. Complete disaster. Il make crap of the strips that are in and he used about 400 euro worth of the stuff the close the cavity. Complete disaster. Cant pull the dpc out anymore as he used expanding foam aswel do its wedged in there. Fair stress building when you dont get a contractor and sub all the work
‘I ain’t got a trade I just give it a go!’ Absolutely brilliant pal! 👏
Thanks buddy
Really pleased to see you are back posting videos. You have been missed.
Thanks mate 👍
Good to see you back mate, love your vids. Hope your well and great to see your still going.
Very straight forward advice mate - thank you so much !
Good to see you back! Hope you’re well buddy.
Thanks for sharing. Land purchase currently going through and hopefully, I'll be embarking on my self build journey soon. Got a 3 day excavator course lined up first though.
Awesome 🙌 I bought an excavator in the end, bit late in the game but I still have lots of landscaping to do. I wish I bought one right at the start
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I’ve got a sewage treatment plant and drainage field. Hoping to save as much as I can.
Just started following you as im really interested in all this stuff and right now cannot accept what building companies think they can charge these days for work.
Some are making proper bank these days 😆
Nice to see you back!
Discovered your channel by pure chance…and I’ve just subscribed!!
Thanks buddy 👍
Very informative video mate thanks
What about the top? I didn't know you used it under the window cills.
I am more interested to know how you finish, plasterboard, fibre cement board??? How firm and sound is the closer plastic to attach your finish board? Could do with anothet video please 😊
The top has an insulated catnic style lintel so the cavity is closed there. I'll likely be using eps backed plasterboard on the reveals. Of course I'll do a video when I get to that part 😅 I am rather slow so not got to that bit yet 😆
thanks mate really good I was thinking how the builder are doing this
Very well explained 👍
Great video, looking forward to seeing more!
Great video. Thank you
Thank you. Just what I needed to know 😊
No probs 🙌
Glad to see your subcriptions increasing. Well deserved. I have question though do you put cavity closures at the bottom of a doorway?
Haha I'm just filming something about that today! It's not normal to have an inner skin and therefor a cavity closer where your door threshold is. It doesn't seem like there is a definitive answer which solves thermal bridging issues though especially when you are supposed to fit doors/windows overhanging cavities by 30mm. My fix will be out next week if you can wait?
Nice an simple excellent mate
Good luck to you.
at 1:48 would you not be applying air tight tape to the 90 degree angle where the 2 closers meet so any water running down the vertical wouldn't get out anyway?
I'll be putting the tape on (not got to that point just yet) but that's after I've already put the windows in, so just the back section will be sealed. The windows overlap 30mm into the cavity so unless you've really f'ed up, water shouldn't be getting that far back
Do you attach window formers whilst your building the wall or after the walls are done?
You can use window formers whilst you are building, they are pre formed cavity closers like the ones I've used in the video. You usually see them on big new build sites. Otherwise you can fit cavity closers afterwards like I've done here
Great stuff
Great video buddy.
Is it possible to fit these after you’ve had a new back door fitted to the outer skin?
I have the cavity where the inner skin returns to a vertical DPC, but being 70+ years old, I’m thinking of chopping out that return, clearing out all the debris, and fitting a cavity closer on each side instead.
Humm if you do abit of trimming with an angle grinder along the length of one side then you might be able to squeeze it in. It all depends how far your doors have been set back
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT thanks mate!
Good to see you back mate, looking forward to watching this later 👍🏻
Thanks Steve. I see you have some branded clothing on the go 🤘 are you thinking of doing merch in the future?
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Crikey no, I just realised what a tramp I looked like in my “work” clothes 🤣
I got them from eBay, really good value and far less trampy!!!
Cheers man! Good video
Thanks mate 🙂
You need to be careful, you came across as extremely professional, you don't want that rumor to get about 😁
I'm the next Roger Bisby 😂
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I've been away so long I had to google him.
Except the pro way to install cavity closers is to fit them as the walls go up...
Great video
Thanks for the video but I believe the verticals ones need to overhand 50mm above and below the horizontal to stop water ingres.
50mm seems abit over kill, that would mean it would compress the cavity insulation and leave a cold spot. This manufacturer doesn't give a measurement so I'm sure 5-10mm would be sufficient 👍
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Kingspan makes it very clear on their video that the verticals should overhang the bottom section by 50mm and the head section should overlap the vertical jambs by 50mm to each side here: th-cam.com/video/6W6uj68sYCQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=KingspanInsulationUK
But obviously that would apply if you had remembered to build them in during first fix, rather than retrofitting them as commonly happens in the UK.
Thanks
No worries
Hi im building in south west of ireland. Im using 4 inch insulation board and cutting 6 inch strips because my cavity is 6 inches, i presume that will work fine? Im pumping my walls so i just want aomething to stop to beads from pouring out. 4 inch was even abit excessive l. Might prove hard to get into the cavity
Well that will close the cavity yes and shouldn't be too much of an issue to shove in. Not sure what the regs are like over there though so maybe double check with your building inspector. There are 150mm versions of what I used in this video also
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT there is a special cavity closer you can get here in the hardware shops but its alot more pricy than the 4 inch stuff. 4 inch stuff was 55 euro a sheet 1200mm by 2400mm so still saucey enough. By right i should have bough lighter stuff be handier to tap into cavity. The beads will be meeting it anyway. Il see how i get on il tackle it during the week.
Hi there - great video. I’m in the middle of a self build can you give a link for the cavity closer you used please. Also I’ve left 5mm space all around for easy of installation of doors and windows is that enough space for the cavity closers to be installed as I had not allowed for them. Thanks for your help
@@JimStone82 the manufacturer is YBS, lots of places have them and you can get the 150mm ones if you're on new regs. You should be fine with the windows and doors, especially if you went 5mm smaller than your smallest measurement
Hi Aiden, what did you use to cover the window closer? Osb wood or plasterboard?
@@Ace-xm9iq as in what have I used on the reveals inside? I haven't actually done it yet 😆 (I'm slow) but I'll be using insulated plasterboard
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT yes that’s what I meant 😅. Thanks. It’s taken me 6 months just to build a 2m porch, you’re definitely a lot faster then I am 😂.
@@Ace-xm9iq haha I'll probably use the Eps backed plasterboard rather than PIR though
My builder's gone and fitted the windows and door before these have been fitted. Am I screwed or should I trim the cavity closer and fit on the interior of the window frames.
Eeek, you need to close the cavity for building regs and they should be fitted before windows and doors 😬 Is the builder still around as he should correct this. Maybe have a chat with your building inspector? If your builder hasn't foamed the windows in yet then there's a chance they can be squeezed in. I can't see how trimming them will help
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT - unfortunately, the builder f*cked me over. Took £30k of my money and left with a 70% finished building. By the look of it, I could possibly squeeze the close between the fitted frame and the blockwork. I'll need to dig out foam, adhesive and shims in places.
@@randymch ah well good luck dude, hopefully you don't have too many to do to sort it. You can get single flange cavity closers which you might be able to butt up against the window frame so check them out 👍
Can you tell me why there's no dpc on windows cils and head ?
You only put dpc on the cill if you have a stone lintel. I have installed aluminium windows and cill. The dpc at the head goes above the lintel
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT thanks, I'm building a new house direct labour and doing smaller jobs like the cavity closers etc... and wanted to know the detail... thanks
Hi what size clout nails do you use?
I used 20mm
Where is your dpc strips in your window openings?
You don't have any of you use these cavity closers
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT really? Feck it. I went away and got 4 inch kingspan to close my cavity. I came to the house today and the guy that did it for me made a dogs dinner of it. He didnt leave the dpc come out past the reveal in alot of places so iv to rip all the kingspan out again now and re do the whole lot myself. Complete disaster. Il make crap of the strips that are in and he used about 400 euro worth of the stuff the close the cavity. Complete disaster. Cant pull the dpc out anymore as he used expanding foam aswel do its wedged in there. Fair stress building when you dont get a contractor and sub all the work
@@jericho9653 😬 sounds like a headache
👍
I'm not a TH-camr, I just have a view!
Nice1