I hope he gets more wiews, Apart from somtimes shillilng a tool or product, I can't really say he has been wrong on anything. I'm not a keyboard warrior that would jump down someones neck if the lighting wasn't right, etc etc. But If a mans doing right then I gotta say top man. And Clevvit, I can't fault them appart from they didn't buy me a bacon sarnie.
Sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid lost the login password. I love any tricks you can offer me
@Westley Quentin I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Not being a builder I never knew about cavity trays. Long story cut short I had water coming out of the cavity wall in my garage and collected it in a bucket for years. A builder pal told me about cavity trays and I discovered the bricky had left weep holes, but when the Alpine render was applied to the outside they were cemented over. I managed to locate them and get the drill out the cement. Thanks for the video Roger, I'm sure it will help people like myself who are having the same problem.
If only you had done this explanation 5 years ago, great video! Having purchased a new build from one of the UK's largest builders with a bay window, or as we came to rename the bay 'The waterfall'. We spent our first Xmas with indoor gutters as water poured into the house with heavy rain. Months of debating why Cav Trays had not been used, Why outer bricks are porous, refusing to have waterproofing applied to the bricks, builders grinding out to push DPC in above the bay all efforts failed. Eventually, the outer skin brickwork was completely removed then Cav Trays installed with amazing results. Dry as a bone.
Wow! That is horrendous. I can see why they didn't want waterproofer. The problem had to be solved for good. How many other houses had the same problem?
@@SkillBuilder Seven on our small estate requiring full scaffolding, strip, trays then outer skin rebuild followed by a specialists brick painter to touch up the repair. Full re plaster in the room, new carpets, curtains. Nice on new 5 bed houses for the want of £50 Cav Trays.
Thanks Roger, I'm really enjoying all the Skill Builder videos mate. I am a mechanical engineer and office worker, but really I love practical work and would love to have been a builder! I do all my own house maintenance and improvements, but am quickly running out of jobs, so I might have to move soon! Can't get enough of the SB vids. Cheers to you and Robin.
Excellent explanation as always Roger 👍 Very common issues with penetrating damp because of these defects regarding trays. It’s even more common now since cavity wall insulation gets introduced, especially on those old damaged bitumen trays... 👍
Bloody cavity trays a right royal pain in the arse for us brickies . Awkward to retro fit and murder to keep clean on new builds but a necessity. I have to say Roger that DPC idea over the steels is a cracking idea , thanks pal 🧱🙌🏽
I watched your cavity tray installation video> Thanks also for the Belgian brickwork recommendation, great information. I love a bit of Flemish brickwork.
Love this, great explanation, I'm a multi trade op for the local council, this sort of video would be great to share with the office girls to expand their knowledge 👍🏻
This will be a great video to show Eastbourne Building inspectors Told my builder what he did using HD membrane was ok Having to redo myself now problem surfacing
Thanks Roger. Great honest video. Could you cover sometime when retro fitting a tray the best ways to attach it to the blockwork side and how important that is. Please keep em coming.
I have to admit we have just had an extension done and the outside was coated with what is to me a new rendering product that i think you have featured in one of your videos,s comes in various colors but the point is they never put those trays in and i can really see why we ended up with various movement cracks in the bedrooms above,with just installing the steels let alone chopping out more for trays ,great vide0 ,thanks.
Absolutely YES. Please do continue these type of informative correct methods of executing building activities. I love the DPC idea, on the next one definitely DPC above the Steels. Thanks
I was the BCO that mentioned the storm dry. Cavity trays are the most common thing to pick up at completion stage along with trickle vents etc. Thanks for the video and hopefully more builders are aware.
Halilula finally someone who knows his stuff. I have commented on a lot of videos on here asking why they haven’t put cavity tray in over a RSJ above the roof. And also why the hell don’t they cut the cavity out between brick and block work to stop damp tracking across. Or at least cut a verticalDPC.
Great video Roger!My house doesn't have any, maybe it should as someone in the past extended just like you drew with the flat roof to the rear.I always wondered where they were used,why and when. Very interesting and practical, many thanks!👍
Haha, nice one Rog, your timing is impeccable! I'm a window fitter and have had to do a quick rethink on an unsupported head. The opening is 1800mm so a bit wide for an angle iron and the cavity tray exits into the bed joint one course up, right in the way as I'd planned to use an IG L11! The bricks are Midhurst Pinks and have the strength of meringue so I'm calling in a favour with one of my brickie mates!
Good vid. Would be interested to see one where a new set of I beams are installed internally for a new downstairs extension showing the concrete seating pads, the packing between the top of steel and under brickwork and amended brickwork right to boxing them in.
Have also seen Cavity Tray used after problems with large pane double glazed windows that have been put in with I-beams for lintels and they've started to rot out due to the water in the cavity. One property I attended a rain flooded kitchen (thought to be water coming through the boiler flue) it was actually an inch gap above the window where the beam had started to collapse and the 2 stories of brick above where only being held up by the 8 x 6 ft double glazed window.
Thanks for that Mark. As usual we are getting comments from people who seem to think that these problems aren't real and that large amounts of water are caused by leaking roofs. I think they just don't get out much.
ive done the same roger. ive made myself a gutter as a pecaution between the rsj's channeling out to the outer skin as my extension is set back on beams and the bottom half is flush with front of the house
In the simplest terms a wall cavity is a drain, problem arise when the rain in the drain hits a window head or an obstruction in the cavity causing it to bridge to the inside or as Rodger said retro fitting steel beams. 😁A good example of retro fitting cavity trays is on bricklaying with Steve and Alex
A cavity tray is a sheet of damp proof that's built into a lintel that crosses the cavity wall,that sits on the block work & brickwork with the cavity tray coming across the cavity slightly higher on the block work to the brickwork, with small plastic weep holes placed into the perps in the brickwork this allows for any moisture water to come down the cavity tray & out of the weep holes .
Great explanation of the requirements. Relatively straight forward on new builds, however, to install a cavity tray retrospectively above an extension roof is a non starter in most cases, as you rightly point out, to do so may weaken the structural integrity of the existing building. Cavity trays can be installed retrospectively, however, the work is complex and how many clients will be willing to pay thousands to have this work carried out? To install trays properly, you need access above the tray, to ensure no mortar droppings are left or end up in the bottom of the tray, also how do you ensure thermal compliance and fit this retrospectively, with minimal room to manoeuvre and install the components. Good to hear that Building Control have realised this and have agreed to a practical solution for everyone.
Great video, I recently inspected the weep holes in my house. On the top corners of one window they had fallen out with just the mortar hole left. My understanding is they are plastic L shapes and can’t see how it would have fallen out. Might have been like this for some years, how long would it take to notice if you had a problem with drainage? Second question, is an air gap the whole way through sufficient if not should I cut down a weep vent down and poke it back through or try remove mortar for that brick and place a whole on in. Thanks for your help
If it helps, Ryan, I just did mine last week! Due to covid rules in Scotland, I had to do it all myself, and the new hatch and ladder were quite heavy! Pretty much all the diagrams you find online are correct, put a couple of supports either side of the new hatch, spanning the beam(s) that aren't being removed, supporting those that are. Cut out the beams to the new hatch width plus the width of the new timbers (double up, two timbers either side, just in case), then slot in the new timber and either use joist hangers or long screws to fix in place. I did this before cutting the new hatch as the plasterboard was well supported and I found it less messy, but it wouldn't make a huge difference either way. I found it easier to cut the plasterboard to the new hole. A few lessons learned: make sure you roll back all insulation around the area first, as it really does get in the way. Check for any downlighting or wires in the new space (I had to move one spotlight and extend wiring around the new hatch. If you are moving lights or wiring, take the opportunity to add in new loft lighting if required, as you'll not likely do it later! I used a reciprocating saw to cut the joist, which was accurate and quick and allowed me to retain the plasterboard as mentioned. Take a couple of boards (scaffold boards, cut in 2 or 3 lengthwise are perfect) up with you and once you've rolled back the insulation, put the boards down to sit or stand on while you work. If you're on your own, remove the ladder from the new hatch to install, as it is much easier just to lift the hatch without the ladder. Expect some minor plaster repairs when doing the job, I had a couple of cracks to fill (all my own fault, but if you don't do regularly, just expect errors). Finally, make sure you charge your drill driver batteries, and make sure you have someone downstairs to let you out when you install your new hatch from above and find that it doesn't open from the top.... Good luck. It's not too hard, you'll be fine!
Need one of these.. above a window lintel.. got a 1800 stone/rubble built house that gets hammered with weather during the winter months. Pretty impossible to install one, so just had it all repointed. 🤞 it fixes leak.
A technique I have used in the past is to set the internal lintel very slightly higher than the external one and used burn on roofing felt to create a gully which if on an external wall can be fed to weep points or if on an internal wall (as in the extension example), it can be tracked to the ends of the span and then via some kind of gully to the external wall. Love the vids Roger, always some good ideas to be seen.
Excellent, presentation. An actual mock up would have been good. We over across the pond that watch You and Robin have to put up with some questionable other standards but good building practice and compliance to building regs and standards, means good construction. Thanks.
Waterproofing a solid brick wall can be a disadvantage sometimes. There may be some small areas where the waterproofing didn't hit, or some proofed mortar comes away, etc causing some of the wall to absorb rain. Then, because of the coating, it doesn't dry out, and damp patches appear inside!
The coating does not trap water so it won't happen. I agree that some of the older types did suffer from that problem. I have seen water run down the wall and run into a hairline crack in the mortar and cause dry rot.
@@SkillBuilder Not sure about brick, but best practice in traditional solid stone walls is to avoid any form of waterproofing , hence the use of lime mortars, lime shelter coats and/or Lime renders and lime wash. This is the main reason Portland cement mortars/renders is now generally avoided in conservation work (because of its adverse affect on the 'breathability' of the wall. However, Nigel Copsey, an all-round expert on lime mortars, has mentioned on a few occasions that in the past salt was sometimes added to Lime wash. This essentially creates a flexible waterproof coating because of the autogenitive nature of Lime . The wash becomes waterproof because the lime and salt molecules lock together. It's possible that a modern waterproof coating could work in much the same way, as long as it was flexible enough to avoid any cracking and/or pealing. The reason Portland cement and masonry paint are detrimental to solid walls is that the former cracks- which then allows water in but does not let it out again easily (so you get a saturated wall , and the later peals lets water in and you end up with water blisters on the surface of the wall and again a saturated wall. The physics underpinning modern cavity walls and traditional solid walls differs quite a bit and what might be best practice with one can be detrimental to the other, personally I'd be very wary of using any form of sealant/waterproofing on a solid wall.
I will keep thumbing up and keep viewing. I will keep thumbing up and keep viewing. :) Seriously, thanks for these videos, I've learned a lot, it's the sort of info that's not readily available for me. All the best!
Hello Roger, I’m very impressed by the detailed explanation that gives a very good insight of the problematic (getting the moisture out of the cavity or the brick walls), how it is supposed to be addressed and alternatives if none had been installed as the house or extension was built. I have a house with yellow bricks Vermeer on all sides + a red bricks chimney on the front by the front porch from the bottom of the house up to the chimney and crown that has some cracks .. I’ve noticed holes (vertical/missing joint mortar ) between bricks on the first layer of bricks just below the crown. Could these be wip hooked
It makes perfect sense to install a cavity tray where required and where safe to do so. Having said that, I have never retro fitted them in 35 years of being a bricklayer and builder, and I have never had any evidence of water ingress, further, if the brickwork is of Type F2, and a full fill cavity, then the likelihood of internal water ingress is extremely low, provided the mortar joints and construction are sound.
Love your videos Roger, thanks for the great content. I think it was in the late 80s when my parents had there house cavity walls pumped with foam insulation (you don't hear of that any more so perhaps it was not a good thing to do). How would the foam filling affect the water penetration, would it help keep out water?
Seen this on an expensive conservatory where the fit company when bust. I recommended a local builder to fit trays. I was called out as the glass roof panels had not had their retainers fitted. They obviously slid down leaving a 125mm gap at the top.
This is extremely interesting. We have recently had water ingress into a downstairs window in our 25 year old house. Looking at our neighbour's houses (they are an identical design) they have several weep holes in the bricks where the steel lintel is above the window. We have just the one, at one edge of the lintel....... I am wondering if this is the cause. I have ordered some Stormdry, which I am able to apply myself, and am hoping this may cure the problem as I don't really wat the hassle of getting the bricks taken out and cavity trays put in. I really appreciate this video, thank you.
Thanks for another clear explanation. I always thought a layer of DPC did the job like you said, but my brother in law showed me the architects plans for his new flat roof over his existing flat roofed garage, and the specification for "cavity trays" over the stepped flashings. That sounds an absolute pain to fit, and if there are no openings/doors underneath why bother? Its a gable end and the garage is accessed from the front by the existing roller door, and at the rear by the existing utility door.....or is it to future proof against new openings?
Really well explained, thanks. A quick question: our house is 20 years old and the plastic weep vents are crumbling badly. Can they be cut out and new ones inserted? Whilst avoiding cutting the tray that is.
This is becoming more like the engineering explained channel but for buildings. This makes me happy.
I hope he gets more wiews, Apart from somtimes shillilng a tool or product, I can't really say he has been wrong on anything. I'm not a keyboard warrior that would jump down someones neck if the lighting wasn't right, etc etc. But If a mans doing right then I gotta say top man. And Clevvit, I can't fault them appart from they didn't buy me a bacon sarnie.
Sirus same! Where’s our bacon butties lol... that said, if I met them, I’d probably buy them one, a small price for a lot of their info/knowledge lol
Sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the login password. I love any tricks you can offer me
@Gage Preston instablaster =)
@Westley Quentin I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Not being a builder I never knew about cavity trays. Long story cut short I had water coming out of the cavity wall in my garage and collected it in a bucket for years. A builder pal told me about cavity trays and I discovered the bricky had left weep holes, but when the Alpine render was applied to the outside they were cemented over. I managed to locate them and get the drill out the cement. Thanks for the video Roger, I'm sure it will help people like myself who are having the same problem.
Roger is a good teacher .
Stay safe everyone
If only you had done this explanation 5 years ago, great video! Having purchased a new build from one of the UK's largest builders with a bay window, or as we came to rename the bay 'The waterfall'. We spent our first Xmas with indoor gutters as water poured into the house with heavy rain. Months of debating why Cav Trays had not been used, Why outer bricks are porous, refusing to have waterproofing applied to the bricks, builders grinding out to push DPC in above the bay all efforts failed. Eventually, the outer skin brickwork was completely removed then Cav Trays installed with amazing results. Dry as a bone.
Wow! That is horrendous. I can see why they didn't want waterproofer. The problem had to be solved for good. How many other houses had the same problem?
@@SkillBuilder Seven on our small estate requiring full scaffolding, strip, trays then outer skin rebuild followed by a specialists brick painter to touch up the repair. Full re plaster in the room, new carpets, curtains. Nice on new 5 bed houses for the want of £50 Cav Trays.
Thanks Roger, I'm really enjoying all the Skill Builder videos mate. I am a mechanical engineer and office worker, but really I love practical work and would love to have been a builder! I do all my own house maintenance and improvements, but am quickly running out of jobs, so I might have to move soon! Can't get enough of the SB vids. Cheers to you and Robin.
Excellent explanation as always Roger 👍 Very common issues with penetrating damp because of these defects regarding trays. It’s even more common now since cavity wall insulation gets introduced, especially on those old damaged bitumen trays... 👍
Bloody cavity trays a right royal pain in the arse for us brickies . Awkward to retro fit and murder to keep clean on new builds but a necessity.
I have to say Roger that DPC idea over the steels is a cracking idea , thanks pal 🧱🙌🏽
I watched your cavity tray installation video> Thanks also for the Belgian brickwork recommendation, great information. I love a bit of Flemish brickwork.
@@SkillBuilder no probs , and thanks for watching 🧱👍🏽
I put a 3m RSJ into a sold 9’ wall with DOC over the top. Never had any problems in the 13 years I owned the place after doing the job.
@@Dave5843-d9m 👌🏼👍🏼🧱
Love this, great explanation, I'm a multi trade op for the local council, this sort of video would be great to share with the office girls to expand their knowledge 👍🏻
This will be a great video to show Eastbourne Building inspectors
Told my builder what he did using HD membrane was ok
Having to redo myself now problem surfacing
Thanks Roger. Great honest video. Could you cover sometime when retro fitting a tray the best ways to attach it to the blockwork side and how important that is. Please keep em coming.
I have to admit we have just had an extension done and the outside was coated with what is to me a new rendering product that i think you have featured in one of your videos,s comes in various colors but the point is they never put those trays in and i can really see why we ended up with various movement cracks in the bedrooms above,with just installing the steels let alone chopping out more for trays ,great vide0 ,thanks.
I'm looking to have an extension on my next house soon and this is massively useful so I can ask and understand the right questions. Keep it coming!
This is a great video! Very well made and really informative
This perfectly describes the problem I have. Roger explains it clearly and eloquently. Why didn’t I come on to this before! Thanks very much.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this Roger. A great video as always.
Absolutely YES. Please do continue these type of informative correct methods of executing building activities. I love the DPC idea, on the next one definitely DPC above the Steels. Thanks
thanks Rogers found this video very informative and useful
Absolutely fascinating explanation, thank you.
Thanks Roger. I've learn something today. As to your ending....... please keep doing these 👍
Thank you. I am just a bit ashamed of my poor drawing skills but I will improve.
Another excellent vid. With the knowledge and wisdom from someone in the trade. Thanks, Roger
Please keep these videos coming thick and fast. Thank you
Another great and informative video
Straight forward excellent explanation. Thank you so much!
I was the BCO that mentioned the storm dry. Cavity trays are the most common thing to pick up at completion stage along with trickle vents etc. Thanks for the video and hopefully more builders are aware.
Using Water repelllent instead of cavity trays is bodging in it's laziest form I am completely surprised at Roger.
A really excellent explanation - I've learned quite a bit from this. (And other SB videos.) Thanks.
This is the content i'm here for. Nice one Rog!
Thank you Roger - Very useful
I LEARNED SO MUCH IN THE 1st 2mins MANY THANKS ROGER SO MUCH THANKS
Halilula finally someone who knows his stuff. I have commented on a lot of videos on here asking why they haven’t put cavity tray in over a RSJ above the roof. And also why the hell don’t they cut the cavity out between brick and block work to stop damp tracking across. Or at least cut a verticalDPC.
Brilliant explanation
Excellent video Roger. Very informative mate! 👍🏾
Great video Roger!My house doesn't have any, maybe it should as someone in the past extended just like you drew with the flat roof to the rear.I always wondered where they were used,why and when. Very interesting and practical, many thanks!👍
Haha, nice one Rog, your timing is impeccable! I'm a window fitter and have had to do a quick rethink on an unsupported head. The opening is 1800mm so a bit wide for an angle iron and the cavity tray exits into the bed joint one course up, right in the way as I'd planned to use an IG L11! The bricks are Midhurst Pinks and have the strength of meringue so I'm calling in a favour with one of my brickie mates!
I like this technical advice... so useful 👍
👍, bloody good channel you have here Roger. Look forward to the next one.
Good vid. Would be interested to see one where a new set of I beams are installed internally for a new downstairs extension showing the concrete seating pads, the packing between the top of steel and under brickwork and amended brickwork right to boxing them in.
once again I have learned something. thank you.
Another fantastic and informative video, thanks again Roger.
Thanks always full of knowledge and including techical details. Being an engineer even knowledgeable for me.
So nice of you
Really enjoyed this one, excellent.
Great explanation
I love theses know your house videos. Good job Rodger 👍
Well explained , makes sense , I just upgraded my English here ..... cavity trays 🙏🏻
Have also seen Cavity Tray used after problems with large pane double glazed windows that have been put in with I-beams for lintels and they've started to rot out due to the water in the cavity. One property I attended a rain flooded kitchen (thought to be water coming through the boiler flue) it was actually an inch gap above the window where the beam had started to collapse and the 2 stories of brick above where only being held up by the 8 x 6 ft double glazed window.
Thanks for that Mark. As usual we are getting comments from people who seem to think that these problems aren't real and that large amounts of water are caused by leaking roofs. I think they just don't get out much.
Nicely explained Roger, thanks.
Great stuff. Now I need a lintel & cavity tray detail replacement video on Victorian pitched roof bay windows ... ;)
Really informative - thanks 👍
Really enjoy the videos very informative.
Thank you so much for this video. Have been chasing a leak and you confirmed my suspicions.
Glad I could help!
Really informative . Many thanks
Great video Roger, upskilled for ever now re g4round floor extensions! Top video
Thanks Roger, well explained.
ive done the same roger.
ive made myself a gutter as a pecaution between the rsj's channeling out to the outer skin as my extension is set back on beams and the bottom half is flush with front of the house
Easy enough to make a tray out of a roll of 18inch dpc, and fold over your ends! Well explained for a plumber Roger 😜
Outstanding, cheers!
BRILIANT Thank You !
Excellent as usual...looking forward to many more of these
Nice little group of videos layout, ur the best mate.
Thanks for this.
Well explained as always Roger.
perhaps not a draughtsman, though !
Give him a break. He's probably forgot more about construction than we'll ever know. I'll give him a pass on the drawings if you will 👀
In the simplest terms a wall cavity is a drain, problem arise when the rain in the drain hits a window head or an obstruction in the cavity causing it to bridge to the inside or as Rodger said retro fitting steel beams. 😁A good example of retro fitting cavity trays is on bricklaying with Steve and Alex
A cavity tray is a sheet of damp proof that's built into a lintel that crosses the cavity wall,that sits on the block work & brickwork with the cavity tray coming across the cavity slightly higher on the block work to the brickwork, with small plastic weep holes placed into the perps in the brickwork this allows for any moisture water to come down the cavity tray & out of the weep holes .
Great video, thumbs up from me, more of these for sure.
great video again,,,but also the bottom tray on the pitched roof can be a catchment tray with both ends blocked off with a weephole vent
Really useful thank you
I like that idea with the dpc on the steels, what customer is likely to pay the cost of installing damp trays on an extension, its a big job
Great video. Would love to see something similar for parapet joints
Great explanation of the requirements. Relatively straight forward on new builds, however, to install a cavity tray retrospectively above an extension roof is a non starter in most cases, as you rightly point out, to do so may weaken the structural integrity of the existing building. Cavity trays can be installed retrospectively, however, the work is complex and how many clients will be willing to pay thousands to have this work carried out? To install trays properly, you need access above the tray, to ensure no mortar droppings are left or end up in the bottom of the tray, also how do you ensure thermal compliance and fit this retrospectively, with minimal room to manoeuvre and install the components. Good to hear that Building Control have realised this and have agreed to a practical solution for everyone.
In many cases it is a day's work to retrofit cavity trays and, since it is only the external skin the structure is not compromised.
Rog - this is brilliant. Many thanks for sharing your honest knowledge and experience. Love it. Cheers.
Great video
Nice video roger, appreciate this!
Great video, I recently inspected the weep holes in my house. On the top corners of one window they had fallen out with just the mortar hole left. My understanding is they are plastic L shapes and can’t see how it would have fallen out. Might have been like this for some years, how long would it take to notice if you had a problem with drainage? Second question, is an air gap the whole way through sufficient if not should I cut down a weep vent down and poke it back through or try remove mortar for that brick and place a whole on in. Thanks for your help
Love owt like this not in building industry but always good to know. Now show me how to do a loft opening enlargement video step by step.👍
If it helps, Ryan, I just did mine last week! Due to covid rules in Scotland, I had to do it all myself, and the new hatch and ladder were quite heavy!
Pretty much all the diagrams you find online are correct, put a couple of supports either side of the new hatch, spanning the beam(s) that aren't being removed, supporting those that are. Cut out the beams to the new hatch width plus the width of the new timbers (double up, two timbers either side, just in case), then slot in the new timber and either use joist hangers or long screws to fix in place. I did this before cutting the new hatch as the plasterboard was well supported and I found it less messy, but it wouldn't make a huge difference either way. I found it easier to cut the plasterboard to the new hole. A few lessons learned: make sure you roll back all insulation around the area first, as it really does get in the way. Check for any downlighting or wires in the new space (I had to move one spotlight and extend wiring around the new hatch. If you are moving lights or wiring, take the opportunity to add in new loft lighting if required, as you'll not likely do it later! I used a reciprocating saw to cut the joist, which was accurate and quick and allowed me to retain the plasterboard as mentioned. Take a couple of boards (scaffold boards, cut in 2 or 3 lengthwise are perfect) up with you and once you've rolled back the insulation, put the boards down to sit or stand on while you work. If you're on your own, remove the ladder from the new hatch to install, as it is much easier just to lift the hatch without the ladder. Expect some minor plaster repairs when doing the job, I had a couple of cracks to fill (all my own fault, but if you don't do regularly, just expect errors). Finally, make sure you charge your drill driver batteries, and make sure you have someone downstairs to let you out when you install your new hatch from above and find that it doesn't open from the top....
Good luck. It's not too hard, you'll be fine!
@@ricos1497 rhanks mate for explaining in detail what you did👍
th-cam.com/video/ijwIU6Y5T9c/w-d-xo.html
Many thanks for the info, stay safe, ICAN, cheers, Schnuz.
Great vid ..keep it going rod,☑️🏴
Thank you roger excellent video enjoyed it mate , thanks for posting 👍
My mother’s house was built in 1900 with solid 9” walls - no cavity. The bigger snag was inadequate foundations that needed underpinning.
Need one of these.. above a window lintel.. got a 1800 stone/rubble built house that gets hammered with weather during the winter months. Pretty impossible to install one, so just had it all repointed. 🤞 it fixes leak.
Here's my view, my thumbs up and my comment.
Thanks AJ
A technique I have used in the past is to set the internal lintel very slightly higher than the external one and used burn on roofing felt to create a gully which if on an external wall can be fed to weep points or if on an internal wall (as in the extension example), it can be tracked to the ends of the span and then via some kind of gully to the external wall. Love the vids Roger, always some good ideas to be seen.
Excellent, presentation. An actual mock up would have been good. We over across the pond that watch You and Robin have to put up with some questionable other standards but good building practice and compliance to building regs and standards, means good construction. Thanks.
Very useful video
Waterproofing a solid brick wall can be a disadvantage sometimes.
There may be some small areas where the waterproofing didn't hit, or some proofed mortar comes away, etc causing some of the wall to absorb rain.
Then, because of the coating, it doesn't dry out, and damp patches appear inside!
The coating does not trap water so it won't happen. I agree that some of the older types did suffer from that problem. I have seen water run down the wall and run into a hairline crack in the mortar and cause dry rot.
@@SkillBuilder masonry paint is the problem rain gets behind it and the only way out is inside the building
@@SkillBuilder Not sure about brick, but best practice in traditional solid stone walls is to avoid any form of waterproofing , hence the use of lime mortars, lime shelter coats and/or Lime renders and lime wash. This is the main reason Portland cement mortars/renders is now generally avoided in conservation work (because of its adverse affect on the 'breathability' of the wall. However, Nigel Copsey, an all-round expert on lime mortars, has mentioned on a few occasions that in the past salt was sometimes added to Lime wash. This essentially creates a flexible waterproof coating because of the autogenitive nature of Lime . The wash becomes waterproof because the lime and salt molecules lock together. It's possible that a modern waterproof coating could work in much the same way, as long as it was flexible enough to avoid any cracking and/or pealing. The reason Portland cement and masonry paint are detrimental to solid walls is that the former cracks- which then allows water in but does not let it out again easily (so you get a saturated wall , and the later peals lets water in and you end up with water blisters on the surface of the wall and again a saturated wall. The physics underpinning modern cavity walls and traditional solid walls differs quite a bit and what might be best practice with one can be detrimental to the other, personally I'd be very wary of using any form of sealant/waterproofing on a solid wall.
I will keep thumbing up and keep viewing. I will keep thumbing up and keep viewing.
:) Seriously, thanks for these videos, I've learned a lot, it's the sort of info that's not readily available for me.
All the best!
Very very good channel and series
That was the fastest extension ive ever seen built !!
Hello Roger, I’m very impressed by the detailed explanation that gives a very good insight of the problematic (getting the moisture out of the cavity or the brick walls), how it is supposed to be addressed and alternatives if none had been installed as the house or extension was built.
I have a house with yellow bricks Vermeer on all sides + a red bricks chimney on the front by the front porch from the bottom of the house up to the chimney and crown that has some cracks .. I’ve noticed holes (vertical/missing joint mortar ) between bricks on the first layer of bricks just below the crown. Could these be wip hooked
Great explanation, Roger. Steve and Alex did a repair job where the previous builder put in a solid aluminum lintel with no cavity tray. Ugh.
Is goot to know that. Thank you
Very good video.
Really like these videos!
Glad to hear it!
It makes perfect sense to install a cavity tray where required and where safe to do so. Having said that, I have never retro fitted them in 35 years of being a bricklayer and builder, and I have never had any evidence of water ingress, further, if the brickwork is of Type F2, and a full fill cavity, then the likelihood of internal water ingress is extremely low, provided the mortar joints and construction are sound.
I feel I'm a builder now u saved me years ;)
So well explained. Throwing a joke every now and then also makes issues raised on this channel easier to digest.
Love your videos Roger, thanks for the great content. I think it was in the late 80s when my parents had there house cavity walls pumped with foam insulation (you don't hear of that any more so perhaps it was not a good thing to do). How would the foam filling affect the water penetration, would it help keep out water?
The foam is good if it is done right with no void but it required mixing on site and the dry fill is a lot easier
Seen this on an expensive conservatory where the fit company when bust.
I recommended a local builder to fit trays.
I was called out as the glass roof panels had not had their retainers fitted. They obviously slid down leaving a 125mm gap at the top.
This is extremely interesting. We have recently had water ingress into a downstairs window in our 25 year old house. Looking at our neighbour's houses (they are an identical design) they have several weep holes in the bricks where the steel lintel is above the window. We have just the one, at one edge of the lintel....... I am wondering if this is the cause. I have ordered some Stormdry, which I am able to apply myself, and am hoping this may cure the problem as I don't really wat the hassle of getting the bricks taken out and cavity trays put in. I really appreciate this video, thank you.
Thanks for another clear explanation. I always thought a layer of DPC did the job like you said, but my brother in law showed me the architects plans for his new flat roof over his existing flat roofed garage, and the specification for "cavity trays" over the stepped flashings. That sounds an absolute pain to fit, and if there are no openings/doors underneath why bother? Its a gable end and the garage is accessed from the front by the existing roller door, and at the rear by the existing utility door.....or is it to future proof against new openings?
Really well explained, thanks. A quick question: our house is 20 years old and the plastic weep vents are crumbling badly. Can they be cut out and new ones inserted? Whilst avoiding cutting the tray that is.
yes you really only need to replace the front so just hook them out and if the new ones won't go in, trim them back
@@SkillBuilder Great, thanks for this.
keep making the videos 👍🏻
Excellent video, this is what happened our house,builder built porch,but never put cavity tray in, now water leaking through,very annoying ☹️☹️