I've always thought of the same dedication they both have ever since the 1st video. It's like watching Sreten's director cut/extended version in this channel
I can watch this all day! Very good detailed videos with lots of good angles and lighting. Bummer i did not fire up, but sure it will in the next episode 👍
Greeting's and happy weds, the teardown has officially started, Im taking my time and cataloging everything, with step by step video, and pictures to help in the reassembly process. So far so good. The flywheel was bit of pain to get off, but everything else went fairly smooth, Today im going to be removing the valve cover on the misfire side, and fingers crossed it's a broken lifter or rocker. who knows. Ill update later. Ill put a few quick vid's up today as well.
Even without a start it's, still a great video, It was your video series that gave me the push to start on my x5 project. As of today i officially dropped the trans, and removed the exhaust. My next issue now is how to get the wheels off, they seem to be rusted on the hub. Im doing this without a lift either so the truck is on wheel blocks. Going to be taking the engine out the front or top instead of the bottom. Will post videos of process, definitely a few different things compared to your motor. keep up the videos though man.
@@bimmer.doctor Thanks man, Honestly the trans was easy, except for the torq convertor getting stuck in the flywheel, it kept me from dropping trans straight down. beside that now i have to figure out how to break the wheel off of the hub, after some research its defintitely rusted on the hub. Going to attack the front today and remove the front clip, wish me luck.
@@bimmer.doctor So here's the update as far as today. I still haven't been able to seperate the wheel from the hub, So i just decided to take apart the whole front end and at least get everything unhooked there. Im not sure what im going to do, but maybe remove the whole left side suspension and try and knock the wheel hub. I will post videos of the process, but for now im concentrating on doing everything correct and not breaking anything. lol
@@bimmer.doctor For sure. I watched your first video again, and it looks like i'm really close to removing engine. Since it's an x5 there are some things that are different, but it has been a great guide in this and it's been super helpful. You deserve all the subscribers for sure, and keep making videos and you will quickly rise.
Graaaaaaannnnnndisimo video....grannnnnn.. trabajo....veo muchos vídeos de mecánica....pero los suyos son espectaculares.....todos ellos.....muchísimas gracias....gran mecanico...un saludote desde España...europa
Good moring and happy monday, So i took a look at the parts i previously bought last years, I have a set of brand new valve covers seals, plus that plastic piece that bolts into it, I have brand new valve seals, both vacuum hoses attachments, new injectors clips, and seals, new turbo to intake seals, 2 pcv hose attachments, and one brand new injector. lol. I think it cost me 1k. This well help lower the cost of the rebuild for sure.
Good day to you my friend, so after doing to deep thinking, i have decided to replace the chains and guides as well. Fingers crossed as i go deeper into the motor that everything else is in good shape. I'm going to try and just take off the parts i need to remove the heads and front cover. And if this rebuild takes a bit longer then so be it. Might as well do everything the right way so it only has to be done once. Will be starting the teardown tommorow. wish me luck. lol
@@bimmer.doctor For sure im going to. My only dilemna is i really like adding music to my videos, but im not sure if it's actually holding me back from growing the channel. It's a lot more work, but it helps them flow better and more entertaining. what you think?
GOOD MORNING MY MAN, So the engine is officially out the truck. I was able to remove the driverside intake, and there was just enough room to manuever it out from the front of the engine. After that there wasn't any more clearance issue and engine completely cleared the body. Going to fun putting back in because i might have to repeat the procedure. So after some careful thought, i dont think i want to take all the way down, it's going to cost too much. But i think iam going to do the valve seals. The engine coming out i took a look and the valve are completely crusted in carbon, like you can't even see the valve. Not sure what the knock is, but will be doing the teardown in next few days. So i have a issue as well the throttle body on the replacement motor is badly damaged, so i was going to transfer all the sensors and my wire harness my vehicle so the dme will ready everything. I think someone cut a few plugs off while engine was sitting. My harness is better shape anyway and besides the knock everything was working correctly.
That is great to hear! For the carbon you could either do like I did, which is to disassemble the head and then just hit each valve with a brass brush. I also lapped the valves but thats not really required. This also makes the valve seals a super easy job. The other option I guess would be to walnut blast them with the head still on the car. That saves you the cost of the head gaskets plus bolts which are quite expensive and these cars never have head gasket issues.
@@bimmer.doctor you are correct, what i want to do is remove the intake on donor motor and inspect the valve from there. If they are same condition then, I will just pull the heads or buy the air attachments to do while still on the motor
@@bimmer.doctor also one more question, when you said project took 2 1/2 months was that because of waiting for parts? Or you had other cars to do. Im trying to get an idea of the time frame im looking at.
Head bolts are about 80$ a set (one set per side), plus head gaskets which I think were around 80$ a pop as well. For the chain tensioners, personally I would replace the whole timing chain while I was in there, but if you don’t end up taking the heads off just leave it be. As for the hours, it took me so long just because it’s a side project and not a priority. But if you have everything ready and focus on the work, i’m sure you could get it done in a week or two.
Good morning and happy sat my friend, So the mystery has finally been solved. The motor knock was caused by spun rods bearing's in cylinder #4 and #8 which was hiding under the oil pump, Possibly caused by super loose chain on the pump and oil starvation. Although i did find those ends missing from chain guides. I will post a short today of the find. Although im not rebuilding this motor right away it's nice to know what caused the issues after so long. The crank needs to be machined or replaced because there is uneven wear on part where bearing's were. So now it's time to disassemble engine number #2 and begin the rebuild process.
@@bimmer.doctor so im going to possibly build it down the line, but now it's time to teardown replacement engine and start building that one up. Not sure if i wanna tackle bottom end clearances or just send to a machine shop, because im going to replace the bearings as well
@@bimmer.doctor good day to you sir, so i completed the move yesterday, engine is in new shop. Now i have to source an engine stand and cherry picker to start all over again. Going to teardown engine to just lower block, where did you get the clearance specs for the main and rod bearing's? i was thinking about trying at the bmw dealership and see if they have them. Im not sure yet if im going to do precision part myself or just send to machine shop for this. I haven't gone this far before so it would be my first time. This was the part i didn't pay attention to in school and now it's biting back. lol
@@findfixxflip Awesome! I got all my info from NewTIS. Great resource for all the service instructions and specs. Don't forget to buy new rod cap bolts as those are TTY and need to be replaced.
@@bimmer.doctor thanks man, i have been busy helping my friend start a paint/body shop. So how did you get the NEwtis? all my access links aren't good anymore because bmw sent a cease and desist to the sites for sharing the info. I really want to build entire motor myself, so is there anyway you could send me the clearances for the n63b4 motor? I can't seem the find the exact number but it's the only one with string of numbers, maybe n63b4404 or something. lol I should be tearing down second motor this week.
Glad you like them! The whole project took several months to do, the kind of thing I worked on in the evenings and weekends. For the actual timing chain job, engine removal, tear down, reassembly and reinstall, the book time is about 40 hours.
@@bimmer.doctor Thanks, that is great info as I need to rebuild my N63 as well and can compare quoted times from the mechanic. If I was to allow for a new crate long block I was thinking I would allow 1 day removal, 1 day transfer components and 1 day install with some time allowed for testing.
@Bugcatcher3d Yes, that sounds totally reasonable. I don’t know the exact book time for an engine swap. I’m not sure if you’ve already seen it but I have another video talking about the N63 long block in an X5, whereas on this Project 750Li was an actual rebuild.
What were the torque values for the 2 sized bolts for transmission to engine block. For my 2002 5 series the values were 21 and 42 NM?
ปีที่แล้ว +2
Great video! As stupid as it may sound, I think the car could be just low on fuel, as the fuel gauge reads zero and the fuel range isn't showing anything 😄
The ground strap is bolted from the back of the transfer case (right above the mound) and then onto the body. Mine was totally corroded and definitely not working right. You can either buy the original strap from BMW, or you can make your own. Good luck!
Using my wife’s account… Question I just put a new motor in my 2013 x5 50i and it will crank and fuel is getting to the injectors no problem. The injectors aren’t firing and the coils aren’t firing. I currently have the coolant system off the car as I am replacing most of it. My questions are: 1. Is there a low oil level sensor that will prevent the car from starting 2. Does the coolant system and all sensors need to be hooked up for the dme to allow it to run?
Hi there, A low oil pressure sensor would not prevent the car from starting, neither would a disconnected cooling system. However, all the sensors on the engine should be hooked up. A disconnected crankshaft sensor would cause this exact issue. Another possibility is if the ring on the flex plate (13:30) was damaged and the crank sensor can't read the timing correctly. There could be other reasons too but thats where I would start. Good luck and keep us posted!
After my engine rebuild, my throttle doesn’t work whatsoever. Engine runs rough and dies. These are the codes. I already tried another dme. I don’t know if it’s even possible throttle errors could also be internal? DME, internal fault, activation of throttle valve: malfunction DME, internal fault, activation of throttle valve 2: malfunction Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1 and 2: Double fault Throttle valve 2, throttle potentiometer 1 and 2: Double fault.
Good day and happy friday, I should be posting a few shorts by this weekend. I took off the valve cover on knock side, but nothing looks visually out of the ordinary. It's a bit windy today, im doing this outside, so im not sure if it's wise to open engine up with all the sand in the air. But since this isn't going back in it might be ok. Im anxious to find the cause of the knock, so the mystery continues. I do have one quick question, when you turn crankshaft just a bit for timing tensioner, i noticed that you removed the pulley for that part. Did you just reinstall tool and pulley after that to make sure timing was back on?
I’ll be curious to see what the bottom end looks like! For the tensioner, I’m not sure which part you’re talking about exactly but yes before you do the final torque on the crank bolt, you can remove the pulley. Then when it’s time to torque the bolt you can put the tool back on.
@@bimmer.doctor yeah im really curious as well. Im not going to be using that motor though, but maybe if cost isn't too bad I might rebuild it for a complete one. I was talking about rolling the tensioner back to out the pin in. But I think I figured it out though. Bday weekend so I probably won't dig back in till Tues
@@bimmer.doctor so I've also inspected the wireharness and its identical so im going to transfer whole thing and sensors to new motor, it will eliminate having to use a new dme, reprogramming etc... plus I have to use both intakes and throttle bodys from mine as well.
The lift technical rise is 67” from the floor. It’s sunken about 13” below the floor for a flush finish with the floor when it’s down. No posts in your way.
Hi there, in one of the earlier videos I mentioned that I inspected the rod bearings off camera and they were fine. Original bearings and bolts from BMW would have been over 1000$ and I could not justify the cost when these bearings were still like new.
Good morning to you, Well here's the update, engine is technically out, however the issue i have run into is the intake manifold will not let engine pass frame when pulling from the top, If i had access to a lift i would have pulled from bottom. So far it looks like my only option is to pull one of the intakes while i have the engine lifted up, and then it should come out. Then it will be time for partial dissasembly, i still need to find out what was actually wrong with my engine first. Can you send me a parts list for all the seals and everything for the engine? I want to get an idea of how much everything is going to cost before i tear down.
That’s unfortunate! I know the manifolds rest on studs so I don’t think you’ll be able to remove them while still inside the car. There’s also the battery cable routed on the passenger side manifold which makes it quite tricky. As for the parts, I will do a recap when I’m done the project but to give you an idea, after all the seals, hoses, timing chains, fluids, it cost me about 4500$ canadian. I would take a look at all the parts you want to get and then add an extra 1000$ on top for any unexpected problems that will inevitably come up the further you go into the engine.
@@bimmer.doctor well i hope i can prove you wrong on this. I do have the engine about 6 inch above the car. It has cleared everything on the rear including mounts an dme area. There is a good amount of room on both sides i think there's enough to remove at least one manifold. The plastic is literally a 1/4 inch needed on each side to get it out. It's so close. But after the parts breakdown down wow. $5500 canadian. The engine i bought has 71k miles on it, but it sat outside in the elements in vegas for almost a year. What im thinking of doing is just the valve seals, and replace all the o rings and needed coolant hoses, and not go too deep into the engine. I already spent 7k on this motor.
@@bimmer.doctor Honestly i think it can do it this way. The studs are towards the rear and there is good clearance there. Worst case is i can remove the subframe and lower the motor down with cherry picker until is in open enough space to work on. Thanks for the reply though, ill keep you posted on progress
Just posted this quick short. Even though video series won't be ready for a bit, let me know what you think, in it you can clearly see the clearance issue i was talking about. th-cam.com/users/shortsOYYh2_b5bZs
Just took a look, definitely a tight squeeze in there! I would have thought the X5 platform would give you a bit more room to work but no such luck. Have you been able to try and play with the manifolds? I think the fact that you've got it on the cherry picker will help since you'll be able to move it around a bit to gain clearance one side at a time. Use the previous videos to give you an idea of how the manifolds are routed and what you'll need to get out of the way to take them off.
@@bimmer.doctor yes exactly, I think just the fuel rail, and bit of other things. Just waiting for a decent weather day and I be back to it. This make me think I should have searched harder for a lift, however getting it out is only half the battle, still have to replace parts, and wait for everything to arrive as well.
Engine oil priming is completely un-necessary. The state of the engine is no different than if the engine sat for a few days and then was started. Just go ahead and start it, it won't make any difference if the engine actually starts and runs, it's under 0 load.
Hi, this is not true. The engine was completely torn apart and all the lines were disconnected. When the car starts after sitting for a few days, there is already oil everywhere so it doesnt take long for it to go through the engine. Here, the oil pump has to fill all the lines, oil cooler… etc before it actually makes it up to the top of the engine. Realistically, it would only be running for a few seconds without oil but I would always take the extra few minutes to do it properly. If something was unnecessary it was my removal of the spark plugs, but oil priming itself is required IMO.
@@bimmer.doctor You're not understanding. For the few seconds it takes for oil to get everywhere, it's not going to matter if the engine fires or not. There's 0 load on the engine, it's not going to make any difference whether or not you wasted your time oil priming. We have to go on facts, not opinion.
Lol, ok. So why do manufacturers recommend an oil prime after a rebuild or replacement? An engine at idle is not at 0 load. Plug in a scanner into any car and it will tell you the load percentage. Hint, it’s not 0.
@@bimmer.doctor There is no engine load information or data that comes from OBDII. You don't know what you're talking about. If an engine prime was necessary after a rebuild or replacement, it would be necessary after a new car sat on the dealer's lot for weeks or months. Or after the oil is completely drained during an oil change. Do you think BMW primes the oil in it's new cars as they come off the assembly line, are started and driven away? No, they don't. The original engine in your car was started without being primed, and driven away. It didn't hurt a thing, it took all of 2-3 seconds under minimal load to get the oil where it needed to be. You also spun that motor to prime the oiling system, so there was absolutely 0 benefit to doing it. There's 0 difference in load being applied to the engine versus just starting it, especially on the top end of the engine. And the engine builders that recommend oil priming, are the ones building engines where you can spin the oil pump without spinning the rest of the engine, like a Chevy small block. Just stop. You're feeling instead of thinking. You're attributing human traits to a mechanical object and applying a layer of your OCD. You probably think your car gets cold too.
You know what? You're the next gen from sreten M539Restoration! You doing a great job sir!
I've always thought of the same dedication they both have ever since the 1st video. It's like watching Sreten's director cut/extended version in this channel
@@diagy29yap, that's right sir
@@diagy29 1١
you're the man! another humble guy with lots of knowledge transfer. I bet mechanics are pissed with you 😂
I can watch this all day! Very good detailed videos with lots of good angles and lighting.
Bummer i did not fire up, but sure it will in the next episode 👍
Absolutely amazing production, camera angles and technical content! Bravo!
from auckland, new zealand. i'm glad you've added the narration, in your earlier videos it was definitely the missing element. thanks!
These videos are exceptionally well made. Props to you
c'est avec un grand plaisir que je te suis sur cette série, vivement la suite.
bon courage !!
Merci beaucoup!
Greeting's and happy weds, the teardown has officially started, Im taking my time and cataloging everything, with step by step video, and pictures to help in the reassembly process. So far so good. The flywheel was bit of pain to get off, but everything else went fairly smooth, Today im going to be removing the valve cover on the misfire side, and fingers crossed it's a broken lifter or rocker. who knows. Ill update later. Ill put a few quick vid's up today as well.
Quality content, sir. Young Sreten in the making….
Great great job my friend! You definitely deserve 100 times more subscribers, but that will come soon! Keep up the amazing work!
Even without a start it's, still a great video, It was your video series that gave me the push to start on my x5 project. As of today i officially dropped the trans, and removed the exhaust. My next issue now is how to get the wheels off, they seem to be rusted on the hub. Im doing this without a lift either so the truck is on wheel blocks. Going to be taking the engine out the front or top instead of the bottom. Will post videos of process, definitely a few different things compared to your motor. keep up the videos though man.
I’m happy to hear! I remember your comment on one of my earlier videos. Keep us updated on how it’s going, good luck!
@@bimmer.doctor Thanks man, Honestly the trans was easy, except for the torq convertor getting stuck in the flywheel, it kept me from dropping trans straight down. beside that now i have to figure out how to break the wheel off of the hub, after some research its defintitely rusted on the hub. Going to attack the front today and remove the front clip, wish me luck.
@@bimmer.doctor So here's the update as far as today. I still haven't been able to seperate the wheel from the hub, So i just decided to take apart the whole front end and at least get everything unhooked there. Im not sure what im going to do, but maybe remove the whole left side suspension and try and knock the wheel hub. I will post videos of the process, but for now im concentrating on doing everything correct and not breaking anything. lol
Not breaking other parts is half the battle! Once the wheel is separated I’d love to see what the hub to wheel surface looks like lol
@@bimmer.doctor For sure. I watched your first video again, and it looks like i'm really close to removing engine. Since it's an x5 there are some things that are different, but it has been a great guide in this and it's been super helpful. You deserve all the subscribers for sure, and keep making videos and you will quickly rise.
Graaaaaaannnnnndisimo video....grannnnnn.. trabajo....veo muchos vídeos de mecánica....pero los suyos son espectaculares.....todos ellos.....muchísimas gracias....gran mecanico...un saludote desde España...europa
He speaks. It’s a miracle.
ASMR alert, wow
My new favorite SUB!
Glad you are enjoying! New video just posted
A key tool for any budding mechanic: hockey pucks
I think BMW recommands for the N55 engine to build up the oil pressure after a rebuild or major works on the engine.
Top vidéo 👌🏻
Good moring and happy monday, So i took a look at the parts i previously bought last years, I have a set of brand new valve covers seals, plus that plastic piece that bolts into it, I have brand new valve seals, both vacuum hoses attachments, new injectors clips, and seals, new turbo to intake seals, 2 pcv hose attachments, and one brand new injector. lol. I think it cost me 1k. This well help lower the cost of the rebuild for sure.
Love your videos 🇬🇧👍
Good day to you my friend, so after doing to deep thinking, i have decided to replace the chains and guides as well. Fingers crossed as i go deeper into the motor that everything else is in good shape. I'm going to try and just take off the parts i need to remove the heads and front cover. And if this rebuild takes a bit longer then so be it. Might as well do everything the right way so it only has to be done once. Will be starting the teardown tommorow. wish me luck. lol
Awesome. You should post some more videos on it as you make your way through! Good luck man keep us posted.
@@bimmer.doctor thanks man, yeah I want to , just really busy.
@@bimmer.doctor For sure im going to. My only dilemna is i really like adding music to my videos, but im not sure if it's actually holding me back from growing the channel. It's a lot more work, but it helps them flow better and more entertaining. what you think?
Yessssir been waiting for this one💪🏾
Again someone give this man an award 🥇
Did the engine not start because there was no gas in the tank?
GOOD MORNING MY MAN, So the engine is officially out the truck. I was able to remove the driverside intake, and there was just enough room to manuever it out from the front of the engine. After that there wasn't any more clearance issue and engine completely cleared the body. Going to fun putting back in because i might have to repeat the procedure. So after some careful thought, i dont think i want to take all the way down, it's going to cost too much. But i think iam going to do the valve seals. The engine coming out i took a look and the valve are completely crusted in carbon, like you can't even see the valve. Not sure what the knock is, but will be doing the teardown in next few days. So i have a issue as well the throttle body on the replacement motor is badly damaged, so i was going to transfer all the sensors and my wire harness my vehicle so the dme will ready everything. I think someone cut a few plugs off while engine was sitting. My harness is better shape anyway and besides the knock everything was working correctly.
That is great to hear! For the carbon you could either do like I did, which is to disassemble the head and then just hit each valve with a brass brush. I also lapped the valves but thats not really required. This also makes the valve seals a super easy job. The other option I guess would be to walnut blast them with the head still on the car. That saves you the cost of the head gaskets plus bolts which are quite expensive and these cars never have head gasket issues.
@@bimmer.doctor you are correct, what i want to do is remove the intake on donor motor and inspect the valve from there. If they are same condition then, I will just pull the heads or buy the air attachments to do while still on the motor
@@bimmer.doctor how much are the new head bolts? Can I reusse the timing tensioner? If im not going to replace the chains?
@@bimmer.doctor also one more question, when you said project took 2 1/2 months was that because of waiting for parts? Or you had other cars to do. Im trying to get an idea of the time frame im looking at.
Head bolts are about 80$ a set (one set per side), plus head gaskets which I think were around 80$ a pop as well. For the chain tensioners, personally I would replace the whole timing chain while I was in there, but if you don’t end up taking the heads off just leave it be. As for the hours, it took me so long just because it’s a side project and not a priority. But if you have everything ready and focus on the work, i’m sure you could get it done in a week or two.
dude hates funnels :)
Lol, amateur move when I poured in the power steering fluid and made a mess everywhere…
Good morning and happy sat my friend, So the mystery has finally been solved. The motor knock was caused by spun rods bearing's in cylinder #4 and #8 which was hiding under the oil pump, Possibly caused by super loose chain on the pump and oil starvation. Although i did find those ends missing from chain guides. I will post a short today of the find. Although im not rebuilding this motor right away it's nice to know what caused the issues after so long. The crank needs to be machined or replaced because there is uneven wear on part where bearing's were. So now it's time to disassemble engine number #2 and begin the rebuild process.
Great news! What are you planning on doing with the spun bearing engine? Going to eventually rebuild it? or just a core return?
@@bimmer.doctor so im going to possibly build it down the line, but now it's time to teardown replacement engine and start building that one up. Not sure if i wanna tackle bottom end clearances or just send to a machine shop, because im going to replace the bearings as well
@@bimmer.doctor good day to you sir, so i completed the move yesterday, engine is in new shop. Now i have to source an engine stand and cherry picker to start all over again. Going to teardown engine to just lower block, where did you get the clearance specs for the main and rod bearing's? i was thinking about trying at the bmw dealership and see if they have them. Im not sure yet if im going to do precision part myself or just send to machine shop for this. I haven't gone this far before so it would be my first time. This was the part i didn't pay attention to in school and now it's biting back. lol
@@findfixxflip Awesome! I got all my info from NewTIS. Great resource for all the service instructions and specs. Don't forget to buy new rod cap bolts as those are TTY and need to be replaced.
@@bimmer.doctor thanks man, i have been busy helping my friend start a paint/body shop. So how did you get the NEwtis? all my access links aren't good anymore because bmw sent a cease and desist to the sites for sharing the info. I really want to build entire motor myself, so is there anyway you could send me the clearances for the n63b4 motor? I can't seem the find the exact number but it's the only one with string of numbers, maybe n63b4404 or something. lol I should be tearing down second motor this week.
Great and very helpful videos. Did you mention this took you over 2 months up to this stage? I'm guessing this was part time for you.
Glad you like them! The whole project took several months to do, the kind of thing I worked on in the evenings and weekends. For the actual timing chain job, engine removal, tear down, reassembly and reinstall, the book time is about 40 hours.
@@bimmer.doctor Thanks, that is great info as I need to rebuild my N63 as well and can compare quoted times from the mechanic. If I was to allow for a new crate long block I was thinking I would allow 1 day removal, 1 day transfer components and 1 day install with some time allowed for testing.
@Bugcatcher3d Yes, that sounds totally reasonable. I don’t know the exact book time for an engine swap. I’m not sure if you’ve already seen it but I have another video talking about the N63 long block in an X5, whereas on this Project 750Li was an actual rebuild.
PS- Using funnels will prevent making a mess while filling and make your life much easier!
Ну вот и прямая финишная 👍 А почему масляный радиатор не помыли, установили грязным 🧐 За работу и видео 👍
Thank you! I never took the oil cooler out, it stayed in the car, so I will wash everything down in a another video.
@@bimmer.doctor всё отлично друг, ты отличный мастер и мне нравится твой подход к ремонту 👌 ты крут 👍
What were the torque values for the 2 sized bolts for transmission to engine block. For my 2002 5 series the values were 21 and 42 NM?
Great video!
As stupid as it may sound, I think the car could be just low on fuel, as the fuel gauge reads zero and the fuel range isn't showing anything 😄
I didn’t see torque values for the various bolts for attaching engine and trans can I find them in ISTA?
Hey Bro, can you tell me where that ground strap is at the 30:18 mark? I'm having a possibly bad ground somewhere. Thanks in advance
The ground strap is bolted from the back of the transfer case (right above the mound) and then onto the body. Mine was totally corroded and definitely not working right. You can either buy the original strap from BMW, or you can make your own. Good luck!
Using my wife’s account…
Question
I just put a new motor in my 2013 x5 50i and it will crank and fuel is getting to the injectors no problem. The injectors aren’t firing and the coils aren’t firing. I currently have the coolant system off the car as I am replacing most of it. My questions are:
1. Is there a low oil level sensor that will prevent the car from starting
2. Does the coolant system and all sensors need to be hooked up for the dme to allow it to run?
Hi there,
A low oil pressure sensor would not prevent the car from starting, neither would a disconnected cooling system. However, all the sensors on the engine should be hooked up. A disconnected crankshaft sensor would cause this exact issue. Another possibility is if the ring on the flex plate (13:30) was damaged and the crank sensor can't read the timing correctly. There could be other reasons too but thats where I would start. Good luck and keep us posted!
After my engine rebuild, my throttle doesn’t work whatsoever. Engine runs rough and dies. These are the codes. I already tried another dme. I don’t know if it’s even possible throttle errors could also be internal?
DME, internal fault, activation of throttle valve: malfunction
DME, internal fault, activation of throttle valve 2: malfunction
Throttle valve, throttle potentiometer 1 and 2: Double fault
Throttle valve 2, throttle potentiometer 1 and 2: Double fault.
Good day and happy friday, I should be posting a few shorts by this weekend. I took off the valve cover on knock side, but nothing looks visually out of the ordinary. It's a bit windy today, im doing this outside, so im not sure if it's wise to open engine up with all the sand in the air. But since this isn't going back in it might be ok. Im anxious to find the cause of the knock, so the mystery continues. I do have one quick question, when you turn crankshaft just a bit for timing tensioner, i noticed that you removed the pulley for that part. Did you just reinstall tool and pulley after that to make sure timing was back on?
I’ll be curious to see what the bottom end looks like! For the tensioner, I’m not sure which part you’re talking about exactly but yes before you do the final torque on the crank bolt, you can remove the pulley. Then when it’s time to torque the bolt you can put the tool back on.
@@bimmer.doctor yeah im really curious as well. Im not going to be using that motor though, but maybe if cost isn't too bad I might rebuild it for a complete one. I was talking about rolling the tensioner back to out the pin in. But I think I figured it out though. Bday weekend so I probably won't dig back in till Tues
@@bimmer.doctor so I've also inspected the wireharness and its identical so im going to transfer whole thing and sensors to new motor, it will eliminate having to use a new dme, reprogramming etc... plus I have to use both intakes and throttle bodys from mine as well.
Happy birthday! Looking forward to seeing what happens
@@bimmer.doctor thanks man, its on Monday, but gotta go hit the nightlife since in im vegas
Lol
I like that setup. What’s the maximum hight of the lift? And how are the power lines connected to it?
The lift technical rise is 67” from the floor. It’s sunken about 13” below the floor for a flush finish with the floor when it’s down. No posts in your way.
Why you didn’t do rod bearings??
Hi there, in one of the earlier videos I mentioned that I inspected the rod bearings off camera and they were fine. Original bearings and bolts from BMW would have been over 1000$ and I could not justify the cost when these bearings were still like new.
안녕하세요 영상 잘보고 있습니다 오일필터 캡 사이즈 좀 알수 있을까요?
Yes, it is an 86mm, 16 side tool. CTA 2489
감사합니다 행복하세요 당신의 다음 영상이 기다려 집니다
Good morning to you, Well here's the update, engine is technically out, however the issue i have run into is the intake manifold will not let engine pass frame when pulling from the top, If i had access to a lift i would have pulled from bottom. So far it looks like my only option is to pull one of the intakes while i have the engine lifted up, and then it should come out. Then it will be time for partial dissasembly, i still need to find out what was actually wrong with my engine first. Can you send me a parts list for all the seals and everything for the engine? I want to get an idea of how much everything is going to cost before i tear down.
That’s unfortunate! I know the manifolds rest on studs so I don’t think you’ll be able to remove them while still inside the car. There’s also the battery cable routed on the passenger side manifold which makes it quite tricky.
As for the parts, I will do a recap when I’m done the project but to give you an idea, after all the seals, hoses, timing chains, fluids, it cost me about 4500$ canadian. I would take a look at all the parts you want to get and then add an extra 1000$ on top for any unexpected problems that will inevitably come up the further you go into the engine.
@@bimmer.doctor well i hope i can prove you wrong on this. I do have the engine about 6 inch above the car. It has cleared everything on the rear including mounts an dme area. There is a good amount of room on both sides i think there's enough to remove at least one manifold. The plastic is literally a 1/4 inch needed on each side to get it out. It's so close. But after the parts breakdown down wow. $5500 canadian. The engine i bought has 71k miles on it, but it sat outside in the elements in vegas for almost a year. What im thinking of doing is just the valve seals, and replace all the o rings and needed coolant hoses, and not go too deep into the engine. I already spent 7k on this motor.
@@bimmer.doctor Honestly i think it can do it this way. The studs are towards the rear and there is good clearance there. Worst case is i can remove the subframe and lower the motor down with cherry picker until is in open enough space to work on. Thanks for the reply though, ill keep you posted on progress
Is this the ZF 8 speed transmission ?
No, this is the ZF 6 speed. The LCI model had the 8 speed (I believe starting from 2013).
Just posted this quick short. Even though video series won't be ready for a bit, let me know what you think, in it you can clearly see the clearance issue i was talking about. th-cam.com/users/shortsOYYh2_b5bZs
Just took a look, definitely a tight squeeze in there! I would have thought the X5 platform would give you a bit more room to work but no such luck. Have you been able to try and play with the manifolds? I think the fact that you've got it on the cherry picker will help since you'll be able to move it around a bit to gain clearance one side at a time. Use the previous videos to give you an idea of how the manifolds are routed and what you'll need to get out of the way to take them off.
@@bimmer.doctor yes exactly, I think just the fuel rail, and bit of other things. Just waiting for a decent weather day and I be back to it. This make me think I should have searched harder for a lift, however getting it out is only half the battle, still have to replace parts, and wait for everything to arrive as well.
This guy is using hardware & old parts
Engine oil priming is completely un-necessary. The state of the engine is no different than if the engine sat for a few days and then was started.
Just go ahead and start it, it won't make any difference if the engine actually starts and runs, it's under 0 load.
Hi, this is not true. The engine was completely torn apart and all the lines were disconnected. When the car starts after sitting for a few days, there is already oil everywhere so it doesnt take long for it to go through the engine. Here, the oil pump has to fill all the lines, oil cooler… etc before it actually makes it up to the top of the engine.
Realistically, it would only be running for a few seconds without oil but I would always take the extra few minutes to do it properly. If something was unnecessary it was my removal of the spark plugs, but oil priming itself is required IMO.
@@bimmer.doctor You're not understanding.
For the few seconds it takes for oil to get everywhere, it's not going to matter if the engine fires or not. There's 0 load on the engine, it's not going to make any difference whether or not you wasted your time oil priming.
We have to go on facts, not opinion.
Lol, ok. So why do manufacturers recommend an oil prime after a rebuild or replacement? An engine at idle is not at 0 load. Plug in a scanner into any car and it will tell you the load percentage. Hint, it’s not 0.
@@bimmer.doctor There is no engine load information or data that comes from OBDII. You don't know what you're talking about.
If an engine prime was necessary after a rebuild or replacement, it would be necessary after a new car sat on the dealer's lot for weeks or months. Or after the oil is completely drained during an oil change.
Do you think BMW primes the oil in it's new cars as they come off the assembly line, are started and driven away? No, they don't. The original engine in your car was started without being primed, and driven away. It didn't hurt a thing, it took all of 2-3 seconds under minimal load to get the oil where it needed to be.
You also spun that motor to prime the oiling system, so there was absolutely 0 benefit to doing it. There's 0 difference in load being applied to the engine versus just starting it, especially on the top end of the engine.
And the engine builders that recommend oil priming, are the ones building engines where you can spin the oil pump without spinning the rest of the engine, like a Chevy small block.
Just stop. You're feeling instead of thinking. You're attributing human traits to a mechanical object and applying a layer of your OCD. You probably think your car gets cold too.
No use arguing with people on the internet. Have a great day man 👍