3 Brand New Air-Cooled VW Engines Ordered, Built, Dyno Tested, Tech Talk, 44IDF Webers, Shipped
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Follow us as we Finish-up, Break-in, Dyno & Tune 3 Brand New Custom Powerhaus Built Engines for our customers Jon Emerick 2332cc, Jeff Wright 2166cc and Virgil Grants 2110cc
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New engine pricing is listed on our website
powerhausvwpar...
Facebook: / powerhausjohn
Instagram: / powerhausvw
Located in Torrance, California
Call 310-328-2746
#powerhaus #techtalk
Shop looks like a movie set. Badass.
The 40 hp was unchanged for 5 years. It was also the last 30 mpg air cooled VW. 45 years ago I had a souped up '64. These days I have a '64 with a bone stock 40 hp. Pure joy for me. If it doesn't do 72 mph, tune up time! Cheers!
(Suped)
On the aluminum pushrods, I would just tell you the the linear coefficient of expansion is greater than for steel, so it's not that the steel pushrods expand more slowly, but they just expand less. If you were to measure them at ambient air temperatures, than heat them both in an oven to any temperature you want, and measured them after heating them up you would see that the aluminum would be longer at any given temperature, no matter how long you heated them in the oven. I am not a fan of the steel pushrods because of this. Having said that, I have also run all of the aluminum pushrods on the market and bent all of them but one. The only one that has survived for me are the JP Motorsports Sweden 7075 aluminum pushrods. I have them running on an engine with the JP Motorsports MS250 cylinder heads with dual springs and 1.6 to 1 ratio rockers at 8,000 rpm with no issues, and .04 lash like stock. Nice and quite valve train with more consistent valve lash regardless of the current operating temperature of the engine. They are not cheap, but they would work for any engine I have seen you guys build. This comment is not to be a criticism, but just to let you know my experience. The steel pushrods work fine, you just don't get consistent valve lash across all temperatures, and if course most of the aluminum pushrods on the market are not strong enough.
ok... take an aluminum part...
kaolinite clay... available from the great state of Georgia... or from weathered volcanic ash...
add 10% borax as a flux
laundry borax is great
place part in the dust and heat evenly
metal follows the heat as any welder will tell you...
as you heat the part... I use a small propane torch... the flame turns yellow as the sodium and borax move through the aluminum and out the flame
the AuPd dust is submicroscopic.. it's drawn in the aluminum and begins to replace it rapidly... in a cascade.. because of the much much higher melting point... when the flame turns blue again.. it's finished
the cubic structure in the metal is really obvious... it's palladium gold alloy... but the palladium has double covalent bonds.. the gold ties the palladium unit cells together with metallic bonds
it's a superconductor for heat and magnetism... I can hold it in my hand and drill, cut, and polish the metal... think about it
Max Planck developed thermodynamics.. but he was not a welder I'm pretty sure
heat moves towards cold... but this is more like boiling water away.. the aluminum turns into a vapor at the heat of the flame with the AuPd melting point of 1550° C similar to the melting point of steel... 6061 aluminum becomes hard enough to scratch stainless steel... it's still as light as aluminum
we make plates from kaolinite clay
plates from the stuff I make platinum and palladium from
I'm not the first one to figure it out
if you take a picture close up .. you can see rainbows 🌈 in the structure of the metal... because the unit cells are half the size of a wavelength of visible light.. like a CD... or laser etching... so the unit cells are around 200nm
we can make 3D printers that can use it... to build whatever you can dream up
+1 .. Wow,,, A Powerhaus VW motor would sure walk up our original 1979 Super Beetle Cabriolet .. The 1600cc makes an impressive 49HP sans the Calif CAT converter of the day.. 100HP plus a torque increase would do wonders for drivability ....
After all these years man
Glad to see you guys still at it
John, you and the team at Powerhaus keep making impressive engines. Don’t stop doing what you do and keep the R&D (research and development) going to make your engines stronger and more efficient.
I want one those bid engines some day for sure!
Awesome I would love to put one of those in my 74 Street legal Baja
Enjoy your vids and the info. Thanks for spending your time posting the vids.
Another impressive vid of impressive engines. Thanks for the details 👏👏
Fantastic videos guys!.. I look forward to new ones...
STILL, THE BEST AT IT!
Wish They could work on My 964 engine !!! VW 💪💪
Very,good...
Cool video
Can you make a video on what kind of modifications needs to be done on the engine bay to make fit one of yours 2100 cc. I want it to know so I can buy one from you. Thanks
Not really any modifications needed to the engine bay but does require removal of the carburetors to install engine and you would also need to install an external oil cooler and breather box.
We’re super busy with engine builds right now but we’ll try and post more videos soon.
What's the largest you can make a VW engine, without losing the FWEEP?
I need a air cooled motor for my 86 cabby please help
Take a look at our website if you have a chance , it has pricing & options listed or give the shop a call and ask for Jerry or John
310-328-2746
powerhausvwparts.com