AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM NEVER COOLED RIGHT SCENE INSTALLED
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2022
- AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM NEVER COOLED RIGHT SCENE INSTALLED
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Even In this Vegas heat, 400 head pressure is insanely high for 22
Suprised he didnt get his tablet out to sell them a new system.
@@WeatherNut27 "maybe its low on gas [sees 375 psi discharge line pressure], so i'm going to add some gas" lmao
@@mikar3601 All while the suction side was 50 ish.
I watched hundreds but never seen a video of yours changing the filter and piston, cool. That head pressure was giving me anxiety. lol.
"Unbelievable, that's all I can say" lol. You're very smart technician and very funny at the same time. Really enjoy your videos, keep them coming. Thanks!!!
24:53 it’s sounding better lol than 24:57 🤣 thanks for the video Steve!
Had migraine yesterday and just watching now. 2 fer today for me. Thanks Steven!
I'm not a hvac tech but I've been learning from these various TH-cam techs and his equipment might need updating for efficiency!
They will get another few years out of that great job Steve you really are the best!!!!
Nice job Steve, great diagnostics. Most guys wouldn't have found the problems and would have tried to sell her a new unit.
That condensing unit has to be pulling high amperage, even on a 95 F day the pressure is way high, at 380 psi R 22 is condensing at 150 F, this will be ok if it is 120 F outdoors!
It did not look like it was 120 F that day?
If it were 95 F that day I expect a 125 F degree condensing temperature!
On a 12 F day I expect a 150 F condensing temperature as you have at 380 psi with R 22.
@@skidmarkman321 --- Only god knows what kind if gas(ses) are in that system, probably a few different types and some non-condensables too. With the price of R-22 it isn't worth the cost of making it right.
@@davidnull5590 Could the refrigerant be fully replaced with the current refrigerant in production? Will the system work with a totally new refrigerant? How much would this job cost?
For the money the customer spent on this repair the customer would have been better off getting a new system. At the end the compressor still sounded like crap.
@@jasonoak4564 They all want you to replace it. Money is made there, and it is how they make ends meet, right?
Tech who put the wire in tab for me quoted $ 8000 for installing the most basic combo for the smallest space.
I would get it fixed and use it for the next 2 decades. The cheaply made new units will die in around 10 years anyway.
You’re the man Steve. That being said, the Condenser was filthy as can be when you shoved that camera up to those slanted fins. I’ve washed about 30 units alone this year, due to that being the only issue.
Great videos keep up the good work you are a motivation to some of us always enjoy the humor thanks
Nice job, left it clean and tidy 👍
Good one steve I would not even think that someone would have changed the position to a smaller size, sounding a lot better.
So much useful information in this video, thanks alot Steve
Gatta love your attitude you tell it like it is.
Good job Steve.
It’s gonna blow! 🌋
Pull the charge, system is full of moisture and non condensibles. Have never seen plugged drier cause high head pressure. It’s just like having isolation valves on high side partially closed. Lower head, lower suction. I know r22 is expensive, but you had an OK from the customer to get it done. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy watching your videos and learned a lot about residential installs, but sometimes, you surprise me good sir.
The plugged drier caused a 10 degree difference in temperature, that’s why he changed the filter not because of a high discharge pressure
@@dreamer6508 That’s all good. However, the problem is definitely not in the drier alone and not in the undersized orifice. Problem is in quality of gas in the system.
@@igorc3989 maybe
@@dreamer6508 he’s correct. This system has all the signs of non condensables. Needs the full charge replaced, drier replaced, and a good vacuum pulled.
Steve Lavs workin again!
That head pressure is way high!
What would you think it should be
@@dogdiggingrj2089 Any condensing saturated pressure (temperature of 95f on the low side to 155f on the high side) is normal. Typically it’s the ambient temperature (dry bulb) +35f should be your condensing temperature (for an air cooled condenser.) R-22 would be 180psig to 400psig considered ok. If your coil is plugged, if your fan is wrong (or spinning backwards... it can happen) or if you have non condensibles (air, nitrogen, anything not R-22) or simply overcharged. Could even be undersized liquid line and oversized suction line. We want to see a cold sweaty suction line about 55 degrees, a hot discharge line under 180 degrees and a warm liquid line of around 90 degrees for AC. Hope this helps
Would love to see the delta T on that one...
@@georgesummerlin1602 wouldn’t be good. Assuming approach of 7 f, 155+7= 160f discharge air. 110f entering, 35f split. That’s a 50f dt. This is an extreme obviously. Can’t see a system running for long like this before going off on overload or seizing due to oil degradation.
Would probably be smart to get a swamp cooler at that point. Compression ratio through the roof. I don’t live in Arizona so I don’t see those temps.
I must say that this guy makes me laugh. I like this guy because he try’s so hard but he tends to jump to conclusions Never, never, never, add refrigerant to a system until condenser has been cleaned. it’s not for sure low on refrigerant, I mean gas, until you determine the cause of the high head pressure. Also, most indoor coils will cover several tonnages of outdoor unit, it the metering device that needs to be matched to the compressor output.
I was thinking the same exact thing. First thing that should of been done was to clean the coil. I’ve had a number of coils myself that didn’t even look dirty but after you clean them the airflow is night and day as well as significantly lower discharge pressure.
I agree. I think he and Miss Molly could do 15 min of standup comedy.
Lol he’s just a funny man he could be in a play.
That compressor is going to be so happy it's going to try to follow you home.
Hey Steve and Miss Molly! Workin’ again y’all. 👍👍
Your Vacuum gage should be at the unit not then pimp. With 1900 microns at the pump, it will be higher at the unit. At that rate it has moisture in the system and possible leak.
Steve great job getting that old clunker operating again. If the compressor isn't a scroll type it sounds like it's ready to throw a rod!
I think that condenser got a good clean ! Nice job Steve
No....that wasn't a good clean. If he would've pulled the cover and foamed it with Nu-brite, then it would've been a good clean.
There are non condensables in the system. I know it has a piston but if it had a TXV and a sight glass you would have a difficult time to clear the glass and as you added more gas the head would would keep going up. Same effect with a piston fed evap but with out the sight glass. Non condensables don`t do much to the low side but they drive the high side crazy.
This is what I thought.
Being 17 years old, would it be better to spend eight hundred dollars to replace all the r22 and have the compressor crap out in a year, or just help it limp along as long as it cools the house.
Its way past time to replace system.
The r22 experts are working overtime today
Great job
Shoulda showed the head pressure after cleaning the coil. I agree it did sound better but scrolls always sound messed up.
Nice job.
Don't ever remember R22 head pressure in the 300s
Most old school PT charts usually stopped short of 380 psig for R22. The head is way too high the lady may hear a bang in the night when the condenser ruptures.
@@dpt4402 like 150psi high
@@zippythechicken analog gauges and figuring out the super and sub on your own math kept you thinking .....
@@dpt4402 For the longest time I calculated subcooling on Liebert units using discharge pressure. If you read liquid pressure, your sc is cut in half, but its actually true subcooling. Some people forget there is a pressure drop through the condenser and 15psi can make the difference between subcooling and saturation. If its hissing, its not subcooling. Always good to keep thinking about this stuff, we get paid well, our customers expect it.
nice work
Don’t want to sound like a keyboard tech, but the head pressure is way too excessive on this one Steve. Had the same problem the other day. Recovered charge and weighed in new charge. Unit ran like a champ afterwards.
Same here
I agree could’ve been non-condensables in the system I’m surprised the subcooling was so low I’d expect it to be sky high
There were definitely non-condensible gases in that system. I wouldn’t have added any R-22. Maybe convert the system over to a replacement refrigerant.
@@nathanbrown5099 the subcool reading is irrelevant since its a piston.
@@joshuapoche5137 Subcooling is never irrelevant, regardless of metering device.
It's gonna blow !!!
That head pressure was giving me anxiety. lol. guess high 300s is ok?
@@WeatherNut27 no way that’s sketchy
@@Kilo5910420 Which is about standard for anything 410a, just wait to see how 454b will be.
@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 high 300s low 400 is standard..?
@@Kilo5910420 I overheard that 454b was going to send up to 500psi into someones home... hopefully Im wrong.
Sounds good after Steve's magic touch.
Awesome job
Regular efficiency condensing units condense at ambient plus 30 F degrees.
Higher efficiency condensing units condense closer to ambient due to large coil surface area, they condense at ambient plus 25 F degrees.
Example, on a 95 F day with a regular efficiency condensing unit would be ambient plus 30 F degrees = 125 F condensing temperature, convert to pressure for R 22 is 270 psi.
The indoor coil I charge to indoor ambient minus 40 F.
On a day below 95 F ambient you can block air flow through the condensing unit with newspaper, bring the head pressure up to 270 psi, this simulates a 95F day outdoors, then charge the indoor coil to indoor ambient minus 40 F degrees.
I take the amp draw of the compressor to see how much amperage it is pulling, I look for 15 degrees F sub cooling and about 20 F degrees superheat at the compressor at the tail end of the cycle, just before the thermostat is satisfied,
If it is hot indoors the auperheat will be high until the room temperature lowers putting less of a load on the evaporator.
I look for a 20 degrees F temperature differential ( Delta T ) from return air compared to supply air.
If it is humid indoors the 20 F desres Delta T will be les due to de humidifying the air first. once the air is not so humid and has cooled down the c=oild split will increase to 20 F degrees.
Regardless of refrigerant used if the condensing unit is condensing at above ambient plus 30 F degress convert to pressure, it is overcharged or you have air ( non condensibles) in the system. This system needs to be reclaimed and evacuated, leave a vacuum pump on it all night and charge from a vacuum weighing in the charge is best.
what do you think of the ultronic leak detecors
Great video and diagnostic. I need to start a gofundme page to raise money for coil cleaner for you.
Remember, not to long ago he was cutting copper using a rt angle grinder with a cut off wheel; UNTIL someone sent him some free 1/2 and 3/4 snap cutters 🤣
Excellent repair video! Always got to be on the lookout for the old rubadewski! 😉
That compressor is sounding a bit rough
Gissum....I love it!
You're the man Steve! That was a flippin s*** show
Still is.
Great video Steve as always
Hey can you do a vid on rebuilding your testo?
Listen to that high pressure buzz😜
I agree, Clea ing the cool should have helped the head pressure. I'd like to hear from the customer about how well the system is cooling.
Always clean your coil first let it dry then charge the system.
I like that Chevy Silverado reminds me of my old Silverado 02 best truck I ever had.
13:36 "We'll put a little jism on there when we put it together". Never learned that technique in my apprenticeship class lol. Love the old school flaring tool - looks like it has seen many years of use and still going strong! BTW - is there any part Steve doesn't have on his truck!
Jesus, you got enough stuff on the dash 🤣
That head pressure may of been high because he's checking the pressures with the cover off. At the end of the day the customer wanted cooling and now they have it. We can only do what they want to spend.
With that style of condenser, the cover makes no difference in the pressures as the condenser air pathway is unchanged whether the panel is on or off. He should have cleaned the condenser coil B4 attempting to assess the refrigerant charge. Definitely should have shown the pressures after the coil wash.
nice work. A dollar says it is probably a blend in it, raising head pressure unless cleaning coil fixed it. great work.
Had a unit on its last let Tuesday, got changed out Thursday. Boss said go top it off with that old jug of 422b on top of whatever’s in there lol. Head pressure was in the mid 3s but she was cooling like a champ
400 psi on the liquid for 22?? Either there’s non condensables or that coil is plugged
these Rudd were some of the best units ever made.
also looks like the condenser coil is dirt or starting to lose its moe joe or air in the charge
Steve saves another A/C unit.
Moth Balls are supposed to keep snakes away. That is what a Lawyer's Wife told Me that I used to do Part time Yard Work for.
jizzim juice! Love it
The repairs are more involved this year.
That compressor be screaming!
So what did we learn? Bring a cooler with a can of beer as your gauges and that line with the insulation is sweating it’s working and you save money on correct equipment and proper standards and laws. Wow 😮 this should be used as a training video of how not to do Refrigeration. Old school ways for sure
do you prefer the flare connection over a quick braze for the filter??
Hell NO! Quick Braze is a must to avoid leaks!!!
And that's probably why he couldn't pull below 1900 microns.
Are you sure they didn't mix Freons in there? 395 High side is way to high for R-22 no matter what the outdoor temp is. Plus when you added in Freon, did you use one of those "Drop In" Freon's like Nu22 or 407c? There's no telling what other techs already put in before you got there. You could have recovered what was in there, Flush it out with Nitro / R-11, and charged up with a consistent R-22 replacement (Conversion) since you already changed the filter drier.
The compressor didn't sound right after the cover on the AC unit outside was removed. Sounded like it was really struggling (very noisy).
He did what you did, use the one he had that was closest. He just doesn’t carry as many supplies.
i'm no HVAC but have watched a ton on youtube but to me the compressor sounds like it needs oil since its been overheating
Nice job Steve, the compressor valves sound like they might have been overheated and the high side being up could be a symptom of valves leaking by, unless it is a scroll compressor. Some of those are noisy. Thanks for great videos.
Sounds like valves are sticking to me.
It’s a scroll
@@hughholt121 valves dont stick on a scroll. what could happen is the internal bypass is leaking from the high side to the low side. but that would typically give you a high suction and lower head
The head pressure should be ambient plus 30F convert to pressure, at 95 F R 22 should be 270 psi
The sound coming from the compressor during the pump down made me cringe.... Maybe would've been better to recover into a clean recovery tank
Steve I bet you cherish the jobs where your not on your knees or climbing around under a sink. I couldn't do it. It'd take a hydraulic jack to get me back up
That tiny condenser is struggling to condense the refrigerant from that over sized compressor. Time for a new properly sized system. I cant imagine what their utility bill must be
So what Steve found is that the installer upgraded the compressor from a 1 1/2 ton to a 2 ton, but never changed the piston to match and it ran that way for years? How about the evaporator coil? Should that have been originally upgraded to 2 ton also? The customer didn’t want to pay for that?
Sometimes availability makes it a little harder to get the 1 1/2 so the 2 ton would be fine as long as metering device matches the compressor
I am amazed with the shitty water pressure/volume most of these homes have. This hose was a real dribble of a water stream.
The pleated air filters restrict about 400 cfm air flow.
The head pressure seemed awful high for just an incorrect piston and the condenser coil didnt look all that dirty.... Those Rheem/Ruud units look like there is a carpet covering the coil when they are not washed regularly. It might have been an optical illusion from the camera but it sure looked like the fan blade was running backwards to me which would have caused the high head pressure.
Sure Steve has enough experience to tell if the fan was running backwards.
Scene installed?
“Give it uh little dewshh..”
I replaced my old Honeywell round mercury thermostat with simple digital Honeywell thermostat. Now AC condenser unit and the fan do not run. Just the indoor fan comes on when I want AC to start. I had B Y G R W wires on old thermostat. AC is Ruud from 1988. No heat pump. Changed both capacitors on the outside unit. What could be the reason for no AC?
Sounds like you’re not getting 24v to the condenser. You probably wired the thermostat improperly or it’s programmed wrong.
I agree with Brendan. You have wired the new thermostat wrong, or you have a bad thermostat. Go back and check your wiring. If you have to put the old thermostat back
in.
@@BrendanN941 I had to call a tech. One wire was not fully in the cheap plastic tab. Even after discovering and fixing this first, the tech checked everything including the R22 levels. Putting the gyages in and off, both times my system lost some precious R22. I can't believe a tech would do that just for the sake of checking off boxes.
@@neutrodyne Thank you and Brendan for your replies. Honeywell's cheap plastic tabs and my wire ...
So you couldn't wire a thermostat properly now you know more than the tech who showed up to your house and fixed your problem? hahahaha. Yeah o.k.
Superheated and subcool got within range but headpressure stayed high. Interesting
The condenser coil was filthy. Couldn't quite tell what the condenser fan was doing; he didn't check the fan motor or capacitor. However, considering how restricted the filter drier was, it's most likely non-condensibles in the system that was contributing the most to the high head pressure. Once non-condensibles are in the system, your superheat and subcooling readings are meaningless. Pull the refrigerant, braze in a new drier, pressure test and address any leaks, pull a vacuum, then recharge with MO99 or equivalent replacement.
Bet the condenser coil pretty dirty these units are notorious for this
Couldn't pull adequate vacuum = system leak. System must have been pulled into negative pressure at some point and air (non condensable) was pulled into system. Head pressure too high. Leak should have been fixed first or system replaced.
Agree. This lady paid for a number of needed repairs so if the coil or something else is leaking it may only run cool a month or so and then she needs to pay for a coil in this ancient mis-sized system. I’m all for fixing something instead of replacing but this looks like good money spent on bad. I would have recommended a change out.
You could remove all the r-22 and put propane in.Its alot cheaper
Time to tell this customer it's time for a new unit momma.
Damn old man, you friggn called it off the bat with the lineset probably being clogged.. i would think that when the compressor was changed they got contaminated and stopped up the txv, filtter or piston if thats whAt itz got..
Subcooling means nothing on a piston metering device , superheat only .also 1900 microns at the pump means the system is nowhere’s close to 1900 , vacuumed gauge should be on the high side , vacuumed on the low side only , true vacuumed test .also clean the coil before adding Freon , high head low suction is non Condensable , dirty coil or both .
You're not supposed to charge a fixed metering system via subcooling, but subcooling is still very important, especially when trying to diagnose a system.
@@paulcrandall2534 explain how subcooling is relevant in a fixed office system , it will never read correctly so how can you use it as a diagnosis tool
@@8799crosby just picture yourself diagnosing a system with a fixed metering device and imagine what the pressures and temperatures would do under different circumstances. For example, imagine a system with low suction, high superheat, and lower than normal high side pressure. Is the system restricted or low on gas? The only way to know for sure, short of pulling and weighing the charge, is to measure subcooling. If it's low on gas, it'll have low subcooling. A restriction will show high subcooling.
Another example, how about a system with a hot, over-amping compressor. The suction and superheat are perfect. The condenser coil is clean and the condenser fan motor is working ok, but the head pressure is way too high. If you went ahead and measured high subcooling, you could then determine this is an overcharged system with a restriction.
These are just a couple of quick examples off the top of my head where measuring subcooling will help you properly diagnose a system. It becomes even more important when working on smaller refrigeration units with captubes, as opposed to residential AC. Regardless of the metering device, measuring both high side and low side pressures and temperatures will give you the complete picture on how a system is operating.
@@paulcrandall2534 that’s what don’t understand, if I charge via superheat on a fixed orfice system and my superheat is 10-20 , my subcooling would be 40-50 , which tells me nothing . Now on the flip side when I charge a txv system superheat will usually be between 10-20 when my subcooling is 8-12 ish .
@@8799crosby If you're on a fixed metering system and measuring a 10-20 degree superheat (which is a very large range btw), your subcooling will not always be at 40-50 degrees. There are many things that will affect subcooling. Outdoor ambient temperature, condenser coil condition, indoor load conditions, indoor fan speed, system charge, and lineset length are just a few things that will affect subcooling. Where you're measuring the liquid line temperature will also change your subcooling reading. Measuring at the condenser is very different than measuring at the evaporator. Same thing with superheat. Measuring at the TXV bulb is very different than measuring at the compressor. These are all things that you'll learn to pick up on as you gain more experience. These things become even more important when applied to medium and low-temp refrigeration systems.
Here is a real world example. It's just a thought exercise. You get a service call on a freezer that stopped working. You diagnose the system and determine that the TXV failed and slugged the compressor; killing the compressor. You put a brand new Copeland scroll compressor into the system along with a brand new TXV. As the box reaches temperature setpoint (-10 degrees F), the superheat at the TXV bulb is about 6 to 8 degrees, which is normal for this system. You measure 12 degrees of superheat at the compressor. However, for warranty purposes, Copeland requires 20 degrees of superheat at the compressor. What do you do? I know how I would approach it, but remember, this is just a thought exercise. It's something to think about. This is the kind of level of thought and diagnostics you should be using while troubleshooting a system.
I'm not sure what else I can say that will help you understand better. The only additional advice I can give is when you measure your pressures and temperatures, start measuring subcooling along with it. Do that to every system you hook your gauges up to. Especially during a PM. That will allow you to get readings on a system that is charged perfectly and working properly. After a while, as you gain more and more experience, you'll learn what pressures and temperatures to expect to see. You'll learn how subcooling reacts to different system and environmental changes. I will reiterate that superheat is more important as you're charging a system with a fixed metering device. But as you're diagnosing a system, adding subcooling to your measurements will allow you to see the full picture. Take a leap of faith and try it.
Did anyone notice the high pressure switch was removed and by passed. To much wrong here to comment... sorry
I wish you lived near my sister. Hers hasn’t worked right since it was new. The local ac company has been out there 4 times and they make every excuse in the book why they can’t figure it out. They charge her every time too.
Miss Molly, guarding the Parts Truck 👍, She’s a Keeper Steven 👍
Since install?
391 is way high
Piston? First time I heard you say change piston, I've been with you for years. Why do we need pistons? What's with the wire.
The piston is what meters the refrigerant into the evaporator coil and you're supposed to use the piston that's properly sized for the compressor. The wire is used to remove piston.
If you peel that compressor label, there’s one underneath.
Maybe they used different freon
That compressor sounded kind of grindy...
I know I’m repeating myself - I really enjoy the trouble shooting jobs
I'm confused. The unit was 1.5 tons which according to that paper he was looking at would be a 51. So why is that the wrong size piston?
condenser is 2 ton needs a 2 ton metering device not a 1 1/2 ton
@@stevenlavimoniere gotcha
@@stevenlavimoniere what is the most tonnage the condensing unit and the evaporator coil be apart before this won't work? In other words, if I had a 4-ton condensing unit with a 2-ton evaporator coil, would I be able to switch the Piston to a 4-ton? And vice versa, if I had a 2-ton condenser and a 4 ton evaporator coil would I be able to put a 2-ton piston in?
I'm just curious how many tons apart they can be before it becomes a problem
That compressor is screwed flooding into the condenser like that. Recommend a new system and move on
Hi Steve and miss Molly
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
My friend at the gym, said not to tarp my unit, but to put a piece of wood on top.
Yea, you don't want to tarp it, will be a rain forest under there. Just a piece of plywood and a brick or something to weigh it down.
@@Berzerk29 yeah, my friend said, it's not getting airflow and that's why not to tarp it. You're trying to keep snow and leavez put of it. It said, it will destroy your unit life early. I know my original unit 30+ years ago, came with a cover, but my parents never covered and it lasted 30+ years without ever adding freon.
R22 is about $1700 for a 30lb jug up here
Around 1500 in NJ, and most supply houses don't stock it anymore.