Hey bro, just wanted to say thank you! My AC was been down for a month or so.. I called a company to diagnose the issue, and they ended up coming out and telling me it’s not worth the diag due to age (less the 9 year old system) they quoted $17k.. Studied your videos, and decided to tackle it my self.. I found a bad leak on the low side line under my house, at a 90 degree fitting. Used your videos to learn the recovery process, soldering with staybrite, charging, and checking pressures. AC going out used to be a huge stresser as a home owner, and I had doubts that could do it... but now that I have the tools and some knowledge.. it’s no big deal.. thanks from a now cold family in Florida❤️
I just hate it when a contractor does this. Most of the skills and tools are beyond most homeowners and they take advantage of that. Glad it worked out for you. I just watched the video for the solder part. Brazing has always been hard for me so this intrigued me. I may be hanging up my torch.
You are so thorough in your work performance and directives. I am a Plumber primarily and simply come here to learn (obviously) and simply enjoy your teaching. YOU are an absolute professional. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God Bless you.
Thank you to all these newbies using this! 👍 Bc I Love that solder!!!! I Make ALOT of $$$ repairing them (w/ Harris 15% silver stick,) bc they ALWAYS Leak.
Right on brotha I scratch your back you scratch mine…. Wait. What I heard was, you’ve fixed some soldered joints in the past. Was it sb8? 🤷🏻♂️ did they know how to solder? 🤷🏻♂️ I’ve talked to many hvac guys using staybrite 8 for the past 20 years with zero leaks. It’s probably user error bro.
I was taught to use staybrite by an old guy in his 70s who swore he never had a callback due to a bad joint. In the 10 years I've been using it since I've never had a leak or any refrigerant based callback myself. Had to replace a few dead caps, some bad wiring, one cracked heat-x, a few bad boards, but never a refrigerant issue.
LMFAO - nice story bro - I have been using Sta-brite since it became commonly available long before Sta-brite8, and I do commercial heavy industrial hvac installation/service for a living. I have used it for 43 YEARS, and to date ZERO of my tens of thousands of installs have EVER had a leak! You sir are full of shit!
Most techs say stay Brite 8 is only for low pressure refrigeration systems. 410a has a high side that may possibly hit 500+psi. Stay Brite says it's good for 32k NM per cm strength. It's right on the borderline of failability. Rather than take chances ...techs use brazing rods. But half don't know how to braze properly anyway. So why not use stay Brite on your personal system. I do. Never had a issue
Put my Goodman unit in myself 3 years ago. Did everything but do the Brazing joints, including all the closet repair work and new Plenum Box, new Pad, and disconnect. Paid my neighborhood HVAC Tech to solder the joints and do a complete test and inspection of the entire system. He had a $1,000 Gage system had knew exactly how to use it. Charged me 2 hours for his time and expertise. He had the correct tools/parts which are difficult and expensive to buy locally. Tech made adjustments to my blower fan speed because the air was too cold coming out of my vents. Solder is NOT Brazing and this is not a copper water line. I can solder, braze and weld no problem. I have a roll of Staybrite 8 in my solder/brazing kit. I don't own a 3/4" copper tubing bender. Now my neighbor is my AC tech and does my annual check ups. My system runs great.
So, I've been a HVAC residential and commercial tech/installer/estimator for 35+ years, so hear me out. #1, always flow nitrogen through the line set while brazing. Now that being said, the low temp used here would probably not cause sever ash content inside the pipe. But it is critical that the line set stays completely clean, hence the flux used on the joint. I would think residue would find it's way into the pipe. #2- It's a good practice to evacuate the line set before you do a pressure test with the nitrogen, here's why. If the nitrogen is mixed with ambient air under pressure, the outdoor temp cane effect the pressure. Hotter it gets, pressure will raise in the line set. Evacuate first, watch the gauges for a few minutes to see if the pressure rises (possible leak under a vacuum), if all looks good, then add the nitrogen into the vacuum to the desired test pressure. Nitrogen is an inert gas, meaning it doesn't react to heat nearly as much as ambient air. This will give you a more accurate pressure test. Good luck
@@denverbraughler3948 You are wrong,Canadian scientist Bar Jlei made chemical reactions with inert gases in 1962.Nitrogen is absolutely an inert gas,restudy the book pls.
I wonder what nitrogen does when used as a shield gas for TIG welding? We use argon as it is inert , I'm sure nitrogen should work but I wonder what weld properties it might have.
@@michaelszczys8316 It would be very difficult to start and maintain an arc. Worse yet the weld puddle would absorb the nitrogen, causing hard spots, it's almost as bad as oxygen. That's why argon and sometimes argon/helium mixtures are used as shielding gas for TIG.
@@davidmarquardt9034 one time where I work tig welding they got a tank of argon with 10 % carbon dioxide by mistake and asked if I could use it. I gave it a try and while it welded fairly normal there was a thing I welded, while I had it hooked up, that was going to be machined and they asked me what I welded it with as it was hard as rock and tearing up carbide cutters. Apparently that 10% made a big difference.
@@michaelszczys8316 You got a tank for use with MIG. They are mostly gas mixes like C-25 (25%co2/75%argon). That's the most common mix used for short-circuit MIG. Then there's C-90 (90% helium/7 1/2% argon/2 1/2% CO2) which is used on stainless. When you get to 85% argon/15% CO2 you can set your machine to go into what's called Spray Transfer, it's more of a humming sound to the crakel of short-circuit. Some people have experimented with a mix as low as 5% CO2. Short-circut MIG works best with thin material and out of position work (horazonal, vertical, overhead) welding.
Been using Staybrite for 25 years and haven’t had an issue. I do sometimes hesitate using it on the hot gas side on some commercial equipment. Everywhere else 👍 especially Txv replacements,, perfect.
I was taught that as a general rule its best to open the suction king valve at the condenser first so that when you start up the system all of the oil that left out into the suction line will quickly return to the compressor.
In the HVAC field for 32 years I tried Staybrite on a few installations always tested with nitrogen and pulled a vacuum to below 500 microns had 2 installations leak after a few years never used it again. 15% silver and flow nitrogen
Staybrite is not good for anything that experiences vibrations. If it truly was a superior product then large commercial cooling machines would use staybrite. Guess what, we don't lol.
Brazing is weaker and more prone to leak than higher end solders. Brazing weakens the copper because of the high heat required to make the joint. During pressure tests of brazed copper joints and staybrite 8 the brazed copper pipes burst before the soldered copper every time. HVAC Engineers know this yet brazing is still pushed as an industry standard for some reason.
I've been in the HVAC field for over 40 years and have always used #15 (or #45) solder for brazing. I've never had any leaks, and I've never seen copper derogation because of Brazing as suggested. I have seen this solder used as well and have seen leaks within 6 months. I'm not a fan of using plumbers solder for HVAC and Pro-Press either. Not sold.
@@briannatarelli430 Because the acid that is reacts with the gas, and can cause damage the pumps..... Weaker copper or weaker joints aren't exactly the problem.. If properly applied both work. both are well above safety standards. Both have a skill cap. One appears easier, but can cause damage to equipment, The other won't join and won't cause damage to equipment because the problem will get caught earlier.
@@Hamuel89 If you apply the flux properly it doesn't get into the line set. I know this because if you cut the copper joint open there is no extra flux on the inside of the joint.
You are so thorough in your work performance and directives. I am a Plumber primarily and simply come here to learn (obviously) and simply enjoy your teaching. YOU are an absolute professional. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God Bless you.
I'm only 40, but learned the old school ways of brazing. I've tried HVAC Super Pro (no luck, too many blowouts, very particular about how you apply it), as well as Staybrite (doesn't like filling gaps - otherwise it can be handy) and crimping (expensive and I am not thrilled about o-rings). I'll probably braze until I die.
Just FYI...there are no-braze/no-solder HVAC fittings now, in the manner of SharkBite fittings for plumbing...not sure if they can be used in every code area, but they're available. Kinda pricy, too.
@@mcburcke I've seen them. I am skeptical about their longevity. I have a hard time trusting sharkbite and they run at a fraction of the pressures that say 410A would. Not hating, just skeptical. Some day I will try them. Maybe I'll try them on my next home system change-out so I can see how long they last.
Mapp gas with Staybrite 8 is where it's at. That said I'm a little hesitant to do so without the valves covered and the Schrader cores removed. I also feel better flowing some nitrogen but have no evidence that it is actually needed. I've also used a hand swaging tool instead of connectors so the tube I.D. and O.D. are tight.
It's a shame you can't get real mapp in the US anymore. You can braze with real mapp any not have to bother with Acetylene. The 'map' they sell in stores now is just propylene and only burns a few hundred more degrees than propane. It the real stuff is methylacetylene and burns almost 1000 degrees hotter. You can do most Acetylene work with it, especially with oxygen. I hate you can't get it in the states anymore. I hoarded a big tank and a few smaller ones due to this.
Dude you keep blowing my mind with how well your videos are! super super helpful. I've been in the HVAC world for two years now and I wished I would have found your videos and tools list sooner. I do mainly new construction but also do finish work.
@@eddevoe2519 The guy is a licensed contractor… I have not seen very many of his videos… But, with one exception of violating NEC line of sight on a disconnect I have not seen anything seriously wrong… Although, I would do a number of things difference…
Going to be diy 2 mini splits in my motorcoach. Longtime plumbing soldered. Was dreading a ton of brazing because I have to custom build my hvac copper. The Staybrite 8 looks a little like a godsend to me, since I'll be working in the area of the diesel tank. Map Gas is so much easier than acetylene acetylene . Thanks for your instructional help
Hey man! I just finished running a new line for my AC. Thanks for the videos and your very easy to understand explanations. The builder of the home undersized our unit so I had to run new lines for our new unit. It wasn’t hard, other than boring a hole through my basement wall. Long story short, the basement is finished and we didn’t want to demo the ceiling etc. so I went thru a small channel visible from the mechanical room all the way to the opposite side of the house, a real doozy! 😅😅 We are also replacing the furnace because it’s undersized too, plus the units are 30+ years old, so it was time for an upgrade. The most important part of this DIY project is the amount of savings, even with the special tools, new AC and furnace, I am way below my lowest quote of $9,000 just for an AC install. It’s crazy! I am close to $6,000, and I am getting a set of some new cool tools for my shop in the process. Thanks man! And keep the videos coming, they are exactly what us DIYers need.
I love StayBrite, it’s so convenient especially in an attic, no need to lug the big torches up there and heat up an already scorching hot attic. Only thing is there always needs to be a snug fit, don’t try to fill in big gaps like brazing, use proper fittings.
One small piece of advice. On the core remover, always shutoff and remove the pusher to verify the core is gone before removing the tool. Last thing you want is to assume it went it and you got liquid spraying out on you. Love your setup and organization.
I wouldn't personally wrap everything up as in the joints until pressure test is completed. Cause now you have to unwrap everything you just did god forbid there's a possible leak. Great educational video. Keep up the great work 👍
Excellent video. You did the job just like I do except I am still using a corded vacuum pump and I lightly flux the female fittings with a Q-tip. The Trublu hose is at least 4 times faster. I have been using Stay-Brite 8 on new installs and new copper joints for many years. NO flowing nitrogen, NO hauling an oxy-acetylene rig under a house, in an attic, or on a roof, and NO leaks. If you are really competent at brazing then you can become competent using Stay-Brite 8 in under 15 minutes.
@@yuriigorg721 A lot of times the Schrader cores can get stuck inside the access port. Maybe it was cross-threaded when it was put in, maybe the o-ring fattened up or got chewed up and the core doesn't slide nicely out of the port, etc. Schrader cores in general can be very annoying at times.
Another awesome video dude! Thank you for sharing Ability Refrigerants. I Just ordered a bottle of R22 and you saved me a bunch of money. You wouldn’t believe what the supply houses in California are charging for a 30lbs bottle. Thank you again.
Make sure your reg is backed off and when you turn on that nitrogen bottle on make sure the reg screw is not pointing at you. If the regulator has failed on the inside it could shoot that screw out like a bullet.
Standard charge is good for 15 feet of line set. You have way more than 15 feet of line. Additional refrigerant needs to be added at the rate of 0.6 oz per foot of line over 15 feet which I did not see addressed. I didn't see you check system pressures and adjust to subcooling which is what TXV's require. I can almost guarantee there is a low charge in the system causing the 22 delta at a vent which should be more in line with 18 or 19 at the vent. Delta should be taken at the coil, directly before the return air hits the coil and directly after the supply air exits the coil for best measurement. Too low a pressure at the coil can cause icing which hinders airflow. My own Goodman 3 ton calls for 11 degree subcooling and 21 degree delta which I get at the coil. I get 18 to 19 at the closest vent 3 feet from the coil. Hope this helps for future DIY'ers.
Nice informative video of a very neat and clean installation. I am surprised though you didn't add any more refrigerant though. Goodman units come precharged for about 15feet of line set and from the video someone can see that just the rise (2 floors) is 16 feet. Therefore I expected to see you add more R410. In this Goodman set up with TXV the Subcooling should be 8 +-1 degree if the system is properly charged. Not sure if you missed those from the video due to time. Again this video should be an example of how to do a proper installation for several technicians out on the field. Thanks for sharing.
1108.3.3 Soldered joints. Joint surfaces to be soldered shall be cleaned and a flux conforming to ASTM B813 shall be applied. The joint shall be soldered with a solder conforming to ASTM B32. Solder joints shall be limited to refrigerant systems using Group A1 refrigerant and having a pressure of less than or equal to 200 psi (1378 kPa). That is probably why you've never realized because its against code
@@te10183 IMC amended the "min pressure" code because of Sta-brite8. It's now only allowed for use with A1 group which most people are using. I'm sure A2L and non-regulated refrigerants under 5lb will be include in future.
I'm not a Tech but I used this Staybrite 8 7- years ago when I installed a Complete A/C system and NG furnace. Until today has no issue 😂👍👍,...... I'm still Learning
Great video. I noticed only one item to advise others and that was the vacuum gauge was still attached when the lines were pressurized and could have damaged the gauge. I am a DIYer who loves to learn and I have not performed this work yet.
Your right about the staybrite 8 but most codes require brazed joints. Also wanted to comment on the sloppy line set in the attic, really didn't think about service ability running that line like that infront of the furnace and taking up a bunch of storage space for the customer running it along the attic floor. Not trying to knock you bro, just something to think about. Also really dig your vacuum set up.
If going up past 30 ft its best to put in a p trap on the low side (suction line) or use a dual suction riser with a" p" trap to get proper oil return to the compressor. Use a tubing bender when you can to avoid the expense of fittings and need to solder things that don't need to be there and potential leaks. Swedge instead of use couplings to avoid same.
@@craigglaser251 it depends on your expander tool. If you have one that hammers a steel expander tool into a tube its complete sloppy crap. The one I have presses in a swedge and gives a tight fit every time. Also there are ones that you can squeeze a swedge in that you can expand the tubing to an exact fit. Then all you have is one blind end to solder or braze instead of two and thsts one less thing to be a potential leak.
@@craigglaser251 yup the drill type is crap also. I tried sending you an amazon link but TH-cam blocked the reply post so you can look it up its an imperial eastman Swaging tool. I bought it when I first started out back in 87 or 88. There are some nicer ones out there too that are hydraulic. I use a click ratcheting bender instead of a lever bender also tried to send a link for that and it also got blocked for some reason.
Awesome vacuum set up man! Also I noticed that you had the evaporator coil already installed by the time you checked to see if it was pressurized. I would recommend save yourself time and check to see if your coil has pressures prior to installation. Would hate to see an empty coil after it has been installed
@@diyhvacguyHave Question on the NEW refrigerant coming out. When it will happen and Can we still install R410 A when the New refrigerant comes out ❓❓
ive been using Staybright 8 for 15 years or so and no leaks.. last year I took a system out I had replaced in 2009 which had never needed any refrigerant.. it got whacked by lightning so I puled it out but staybright 8 will fill the gaps and flow nicely if you hit the pipe evenly.. always rosebud for me... when repairing coils and piping inside a minisplit staynbright8 is a godsend as I dont have to heat that thin pipe so hot.. the chinese piping can be thin.. staybright melts at low temp so you can get it hot enough without trashing the fins on a coil.. I tried HVAC super pro years ago but it melted under the heating cycle of a heatpump and leaked...
When you open the valve for the freon flow thru the line, be aware that the sensor vacuum reader gets wet with freon with that config, you should use another valve remover to close it before open the valve
Great job! Comment: I would isolate your micron gauge with another Appion tool to avoid potential oil contamination when you release the charge. Question: I was bummed when you didn't show the sub-cool adjustment and how the new TXV worked. I installed a Goodman TXV on a new system and had to manually adjust the TXV. The TXV failed to operate correctly so it was removed and the piston reinstalled. Did you have to manually adjust the TXV or was it holding properly at the correct sub-cool?
Very good job on this video. One minor thing: Using the crow's foot as you did is not correct. The actuual torque you applied is slightly higher because the open end of the wrench should be turned 90 degrees from the way you used it. This will maintain the torque arm length and result in a more precise torque application.
I know its been a few months but that torque wrench he used was an adjustable end torque wrench. One integrated unit. The torque wrench already has the length of the wrench factored into its calculations.
Thanks for this great tutorial All your Tutorials are great. So much controversy of brazing versus staybrite. I don’t know if staybrite can be used on the newer A2L systems or not? Are the compressors soldered or brazed from the manufacturers and if one were to replace a compressor with all the movement isn’t it better to Braze?
Out of curiosity regarding your soldered joints using STAYBRITE as opposed to brazing. I am assuming brazing has been the chosen method due to the HIGH pressures in the HVAC system. That said, my question to you is: Since your FIRST solder job vs. braze, how long has it been and how is it holding up?
I’ve been using Staybrite 8 for about a year but I have a friend who’s only used Staybrite 8 for several years, zero issues. Not to mention Stev Lav on TH-cam also has been using Staybrite 8 for many many years. He swears by it. Tensil strength is 10,000 psi when done right
Read the specs for StayBrite 8. It is designed for HVAC high pressures (10,600 psi shear strength). BTW, Steve Lav said in one of his videos that he used regular plumbing solder to install his condensing unit but uses StayBrite 8 for installing customers’ equipment.
Just fyi brazing copper and silver has a tensile if about 70,000. So consider that and the porosity of the solder. Also a solder with a flame with flux, it seems suspect to me.
Nice video!!!!!! When soldering the condenser I always wrap the king valves and remove the valve cores just for general principle. Staybright is an excellent solder, however it' strength is subject to temperature. I don't use it on heat pumps, but, straight cool units are fine. On heat pumps I use 45% silver solder and solder with a turbo torch with a 1/4 tip. I am a mechanical contractor in Florida where heat is a big factor and have been in the business for over 45 years. Only one suggestion! Wrap or remove any components with neoprene seals as it will save any problems in the future. I do a lot of work with and for Lennox and one of my biggest problems is leaking king valves that have to be replaced because of over heating! One other suggestion, before soldering, practice with a scrap of copper as this will help you avoid overheating components. BTW, I am also an instructor and ran a company with 80 employees with 20 service trucks and 3 install trucks. Again, nice video, maybe just a couple tweaks would make it a little better!!!!!!!
LMFAO to all the posters here that are full of crap. I have been using Harris Sta-brite for 43 years. The actual company rep came to our office and asked us to use it, showed us how it worked in 1981! I and our other techs have installed literally tens of thousands of systems residential/commercial/heavy industrial, and have NEVER had to go repair a leak on systems we installed. If you all are dead set on your 15% that is your choice, but don't act like you know anything about Sta-brite and try to give your B.S. "stories". We will keep putting money in our pockets with saved time, nitrogen, brazing gas, and burnt up copper on systems that will ALWAYS develop leaks. P.S. it is approved for use by EVERY manufacturer of refrigerant systems!
@@pipebrain4868 Some of us ACTUALLY know what we are doing when installing A/C & refrigeration systems! Let me guess, you are rat?!? LMFAO - thought so.
Thanks for that. I learned how to solder from an old timer many moons ago and he drilled cleanliness of the copper as the number one consideration. I have never had a leak on any copper water lines I have installed. I'm going to install my own system using Stabrite. In all the videos I've seen of people brazing copper the copper is not even clean. I'll practice first, and pressure test.
Thanks for sharing. Sweet to use low temp soldering without need for nitrogen. It's same technique as soldering copper water pipe fittings. Will this Stay brite solder hold higher pressures of new freon types?
Man that stay bright 8 is something else. I need to try it out, oxy acetylene is starting to get expensive with it being almost 70 bucks every time I refill both tanks. That plus the nitrogen and I’m over hundred bucks. Not including the silfos rods if I need.
When you were running the vacuum pump I saw you removing the valve from suction line. Did u also remove it from liquid line when you placed the micron gauge or do u just leave it on the liquid line and remove it only on suction line. Thx
Very clean and neat job I've never soldered my line sets but I now I would who would have thunk it but curious why not hang that line sets to rafters instead of the floor you do a very good job impressed
It has nothing to do with strength. You can use regular solder. Brazing is used so you don't kill everyone inside if there's a house fire. Low melting point solder will separate in a house fire. Refrigerants are toxic if exposed to fire..
I have had good results with Zero-Sil. It's a 15 % phosphorus copper alloy. Melting point is close to 1350 degrees f. And I always flow dry nitrogen or argon through the lines. Been using phosphorus bronze rods for over 35 years and never had an issue. The larger units I built had integral horsepower semi-hermetic Copelemetic compressor with VibSorb connectors at suction and discharge. I was designing and building dehumidifiers for low temperature lumber dry kilns. They worked well. Most used R290. 😊
Homeowner should get a lineset cover instead of strapping it. Can even order from the big box stores. Makes it look like a rain gutter and protects the insulation from weather. Annoying that Goodman put the drier inside the compressor, had a great opportunity to install it near the TXV and keep it out of the weather. On another note, I spent 2 hours looking for my nitrogen and finally realized I had put a length of 8" round duct over the bottle to keep it from being bumped around - so always check your ducts haha Any mechanics out there with a socket style torque wrench, you can use a flare crowfoot socket - as long as you are checking torque with the socket at 90 degrees to left or right, the torque will be accurate. If measuring lineset length to check amount of refrigerant to add, easier to subtract total length of lineset subtract length of each piece you cut off - vs trying to measure the actual lineset length. 25:00 also there's a position on the service valve that shuts off the ports!
@thediyhvacguy you are clear spoken, seem professional, and have a very good tool setup. not sold on the staybrite. I've been in the trade 30+ yrs and feel more confident brazing with nitrogen then soldering. will admit there has been times ive used staybrite when replacing a few txvs over the years but try to braze everything if possible. not a big fan of the CPS micron gauge you're using. seeing you already know about the trublu products, id highly recommend you check out their micron gauges. lastly and more importantly IMO, is your checking the charge method...yes, its important to check your delta T but thats nowhere close to how the charge should be checked on a Hvac system. very disappointed that you even have the tools to do it correctly (fieldpiece gauges with temp clamps) but didn't use them. getting your superheat and subcooling readings are REQUIRED to confirm not only the charge is correct, but that all components of the system are working properly. having a 20 plus degree delta T on your air temps are nice to see but not always going to be seen, especially in a home that has a very humidity level. you could easily only have 15-16 degree delta T today, then let the system run 24hrs and then recheck the delta T and now have 20+ degree delta T. the big problem here is that if you dump more refrigerant in the system to try and get that 20 degree delta T it likely won't happen if the txv is working properly and now you have an overcharged system. bottom line is the manufacturer of every system will advise you of its proper subcooling when using a txv. and if your not using a txv, then you'll need to know the outdoor drybulb temp and indoor wetbulb temp to change the system by superheat.
You didn't flow nitrogen through the lineset when you were soldering it. That causes the copper on the inside (where you can't see it) to oxidize (since there's oxygen there and not nitrogen) leaving contaminants in the system. If I got this wrong, please reply and let me know why it's OK to do it the way you did. I was trained that you should always flow nitrogen while brazing or soldering refrigerant lines.
Looks good for all joints except compressor outlet through condenser input. Have you ever seen it used on compressor output? Not sure if I would trust it for approaching 300 degs F and lots of vibration stress on compressor high side outlet.
So what is the tool called that you used to remove / install the Schrader Valve without loosing refrigerant? This video Sir, WAS SIMPLY AMAZING, NOT TO MENTION VERY WELL STEP BY STEP EXPLANATIONS ! Solely based upon the MATTER OF MY OPINION, WHICH I CERTAINLY WOULD SAY OTHER VIEWERS WOULD AGREE WITH ME WHEN I SAY, " THIS DIY TUTORIAL VIDEO SHOULD WIN " BEST DIY TUTORIAL VIDEO OF THE YEAR / DECADE", HANDS DOWN ! Thank You Sir, for not only taking the time to make this video but also explaining the process, tools being used & the components thats involved when being worked on / & or installed. AGAIN - SIMPLY MARVELOUS- VERY WELL REHEARSED/ PLANNED /EXPLAINED/ CLEAR RECORDING WITH VERY CLEAR CRISP NARRATING VOICE THAT COULD BE UNDERSTOOD WITH LITTLW TO NO EFFORTS !!
You can use iso prop alch to clean the sensor, I'd be more concerned about letting in non condensibles when removing that tool. I introduce enough refrigerant to make it positive, than remove my tool. I clean it every time I use it, never had an issue.
This is a very good video. Leaned some new things. I have a question, when you release the refrigerant into both lines, what is the state of the refrigerant in each line? Gas / Liquid?
Next time wait to pressure test before letting the insulation cover the joint. I rather get either 50, 75 or 100 foot line-set no joints to possible leak. Remove the schrader valve when soldiering. Great setup. Who much did you charge
Hey great video!!! but here's my Question.. We do alot of splits in mobile homes and from the jump they taught us to check out how many footage on line sets because we would add if needed freon to the system based on how many feet used????
Great video, Goodman doesn't have the best reputation but what could be changed/upgraded easily to bring it up to par? Cap, Contactor, Pressure switches? Everything I've worked on had compromises made, over engineered in some areas and under engineered in others. What weak links if any are in the Goodman product Condenser units? Thanks in advance for any input.
Nice video man all good I have heard good things about staybright and 410a just haven’t used it yet. One thing that only concerns me on this install because the evaporator is a lot higher than the compressor is if an oil trap would have been necessary for proper circulation on this long vertical riser ?
This is exactly how the old system was and it was 30 years old so I’m not concerned about it. I think because it goes up then back down to the floor then up it will act as a trap.
Units that need a trap Goodman specifies 79ft and up need a trap and it also specifies it’s different equipment read the manuals on them and it will educate you on stuff like this
You need to install a trap if the compressor is higher (installed on the roof) than the evaporator. A trap is definitely not needed for this installation due to the short run and oil can easily drain back to the compressor.
hey bro ,I suggest that the valve core must be taken out when welding, which can easily lead to damage to the valve core. refrigerant leak。and..The most reliable welds are high temperature electrodes. Dye aids can aid in welding, and can also seep into the pipes, clogging the system.
When installing an old unit with a new unit, that's condenser and air handler, How do you flush the lines? The unit used R-22 and the new unit uses R-410A.
A couple questions. 1: why aren't you sweeping the lines with nitrogen 2: why aren't you pulling the Schrader valves so you don't damage the rubber seal? Thanks
No Nitrogen run while Soldering? Have you ever checked in the copper those you soldered? I've done before, it is still built up some amount of Oxidation. No cleaning off after Soldering? And I don't think it is stronger than Brazing base on label on the Material
Can the Wrought copper fittings for Air Conditioning, Potable Water, Refrigeration be used in HVAC which are sold in big box stores like Home Depot? or would I have to buy the ACR copper fittings that are mainly only sold at a HVAC supply house?
What I haven’t heard in this video is whether this is a R22 or a 410A system. The reason of my concern is the pressure difference between the two. I can see Sta-Brit 8 on R22, but would you use it on 410A? What about the new refrigerants now that 410A is being outlawed.
I always put something under any place I braze or solder. You burned up the black insulation on the evaporator connection . I would think to open liquid line valve first.
THANKS FOR THE DEMONSTRATIION ,ONE THING WOULD LIKE MORE CLARIFICATION ON LIQUID YOU APPLED BEFORE SOLDERING.SUPOSE i WELD WITHOUT APPLYING THE MATERIAL,WHAT IS THE EFFECT UPON?
You are an inspiring guy. And I guess others might have mentioned, but shouldn't you wear safety goggles (with tinting) while brazing with an acetylene torch?
How do you know if the pre-charge in the condenser is adequate for the length of the ine set and the evaporator you were using? If you had a short line set, could the charge be too much?
Normally the condenser is pre-charged for up to 25 feet of line-set. Check the instructions with condenser. I’ve had short lineset runs and still had to add 2 lbs before. Sometimes factory charge is good, sometimes it’s undercharged.
Nice video but I just wondering why is that liquid line not insulated? For me this would only make sence if that unit is only used for heating. Would love to hear your explanation
Brazing copper causes it to become annealed, which results in a reduction in the strength of the pipe. The pressure of the refrigerant causes pin holes and splits in annealed copper pipe.
huh? ridged copper pipe vs a roll of annealed copper, if it is a line set then it is annealed copper, if you buy ridged copper pipe then it is not annealed. one is on a roll the other is long straight pipes, so dumb.
Nice video. Got couple a questions . Where is the filter dryer? No nitrogen flown when soldering. Is procedure or compressor dead 1 year. no take out the cores when soldering . Is not you can chose but you can melt the valve o rings . When releasing refrigerant you release from liquid because is that the refrigerant circle to txv to evaporator to condenser not the opposite. And last that line set ix x inches . you cut some you ad some but the manifacture precharge 79 is for the equipment ans specific for how much lineset length. And the last question that vacum gauge cps if you connect it without a valve core the nitrogen presure will brake the sensor is vacum rated . . Sorry a lot of question but if you got time i will be happy for the response
Filter dryer is build into the compressor on the Goodman condensers. No nitrogen needed because no soot is created at 400 degrees with soldering, wheras it does at 1200 degrees during brazing. The cores don’t need to be taken out again because it’s such low heat. I’ve heard it doesn’t matter which side you open up first. I’ve done it both ways, but I let the refrigerant settle for at least 20 mins before turning on the system. On the lineset you add .6oz per foot over 15 ft. So if it’s 20 ft, you’d add 3oz to accommodate. I ran out of time to film that part of this video. The cps is unharmed and ok to use up to 400 psi of positive pressure. I’ve never had an issue with this method. You could use a core removal tool if you wanted to isolate it. Cheers
I notice you using it for new installation. Does Staybrite8 also works with repair that you just torch-remove since it might have old silver residue on them? Thanks for video I think it would be great for TXV install.
Even though the condenser is precharged, don't you need to add freon to account for volume in the lines and evaporator? I wish getting licensing would be so easy in Canada :(
Very informative video. I like your brazing technique. I think I'll be do it that way from now on. What type of gas were you using for the braze, or should I say which bottle of gas were you using. The yellow bottle or the blue bottle. I usually use oxy settling tank and the oxygen tank. But I could see you were using something not sure what it was because I can only see the tip from where the fire was coming out. Thanks for sharing.
Curious to why you remove the Schrader valve vs just using a ball valve with a pin depressor? Is this just so you can pull a vacuum more quickly or some other reason?
Hey bro, just wanted to say thank you! My AC was been down for a month or so.. I called a company to diagnose the issue, and they ended up coming out and telling me it’s not worth the diag due to age (less the 9 year old system) they quoted $17k..
Studied your videos, and decided to tackle it my self..
I found a bad leak on the low side line under my house, at a 90 degree fitting.
Used your videos to learn the recovery process, soldering with staybrite, charging, and checking pressures.
AC going out used to be a huge stresser as a home owner, and I had doubts that could do it... but now that I have the tools and some knowledge.. it’s no big deal.. thanks from a now cold family in Florida❤️
That’s amazing!!! Thanks so much for sharing. I love to hear when a homeowner can save money and acquire a skill in the meantime 👊🏼
0⁰I will send
I just hate it when a contractor does this. Most of the skills and tools are beyond most homeowners and they take advantage of that. Glad it worked out for you. I just watched the video for the solder part. Brazing has always been hard for me so this intrigued me. I may be hanging up my torch.
Wow that is so nice save money and have a cold house now specially in this hot summer..
@@diyhvacguyhi my friend where you live I need a help from you thanks
You are so thorough in your work performance and directives. I am a Plumber primarily and simply come here to learn (obviously) and simply enjoy your teaching. YOU are an absolute professional. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God Bless you.
Thank you to all these newbies using this! 👍 Bc I Love that solder!!!! I Make ALOT of $$$ repairing them (w/ Harris 15% silver stick,) bc they ALWAYS Leak.
Right on brotha I scratch your back you scratch mine…. Wait. What I heard was, you’ve fixed some soldered joints in the past. Was it sb8? 🤷🏻♂️ did they know how to solder? 🤷🏻♂️ I’ve talked to many hvac guys using staybrite 8 for the past 20 years with zero leaks. It’s probably user error bro.
@@diyhvacguy lol, Very poss. h/o maybe used Plumbers? They'll never say tell the truth. Keep trucking Brother
I was taught to use staybrite by an old guy in his 70s who swore he never had a callback due to a bad joint. In the 10 years I've been using it since I've never had a leak or any refrigerant based callback myself. Had to replace a few dead caps, some bad wiring, one cracked heat-x, a few bad boards, but never a refrigerant issue.
LMFAO - nice story bro - I have been using Sta-brite since it became commonly available long before Sta-brite8, and I do commercial heavy industrial hvac installation/service for a living. I have used it for 43 YEARS, and to date ZERO of my tens of thousands of installs have EVER had a leak! You sir are full of shit!
Most techs say stay Brite 8 is only for low pressure refrigeration systems. 410a has a high side that may possibly hit 500+psi. Stay Brite says it's good for 32k NM per cm strength. It's right on the borderline of failability. Rather than take chances ...techs use brazing rods. But half don't know how to braze properly anyway. So why not use stay Brite on your personal system. I do. Never had a issue
Put my Goodman unit in myself 3 years ago. Did everything but do the Brazing joints, including all the closet repair work and new Plenum Box, new Pad, and disconnect. Paid my neighborhood HVAC Tech to solder the joints and do a complete test and inspection of the entire system. He had a $1,000 Gage system had knew exactly how to use it. Charged me 2 hours for his time and expertise. He had the correct tools/parts which are difficult and expensive to buy locally. Tech made adjustments to my blower fan speed because the air was too cold coming out of my vents. Solder is NOT Brazing and this is not a copper water line. I can solder, braze and weld no problem. I have a roll of Staybrite 8 in my solder/brazing kit. I don't own a 3/4" copper tubing bender. Now my neighbor is my AC tech and does my annual check ups. My system runs great.
Thanks for sharing!!
So, I've been a HVAC residential and commercial tech/installer/estimator for 35+ years, so hear me out. #1, always flow nitrogen through the line set while brazing. Now that being said, the low temp used here would probably not cause sever ash content inside the pipe. But it is critical that the line set stays completely clean, hence the flux used on the joint. I would think residue would find it's way into the pipe. #2- It's a good practice to evacuate the line set before you do a pressure test with the nitrogen, here's why. If the nitrogen is mixed with ambient air under pressure, the outdoor temp cane effect the pressure. Hotter it gets, pressure will raise in the line set. Evacuate first, watch the gauges for a few minutes to see if the pressure rises (possible leak under a vacuum), if all looks good, then add the nitrogen into the vacuum to the desired test pressure. Nitrogen is an inert gas, meaning it doesn't react to heat nearly as much as ambient air. This will give you a more accurate pressure test. Good luck
@@denverbraughler3948 You are wrong,Canadian scientist Bar Jlei made chemical reactions with inert gases in 1962.Nitrogen is absolutely an inert gas,restudy the book pls.
I wonder what nitrogen does when used as a shield gas for TIG welding?
We use argon as it is inert , I'm sure nitrogen should work but I wonder what weld properties it might have.
@@michaelszczys8316 It would be very difficult to start and maintain an arc. Worse yet the weld puddle would absorb the nitrogen, causing hard spots, it's almost as bad as oxygen. That's why argon and sometimes argon/helium mixtures are used as shielding gas for TIG.
@@davidmarquardt9034 one time where I work tig welding they got a tank of argon with 10 % carbon dioxide by mistake and asked if I could use it. I gave it a try and while it welded fairly normal there was a thing I welded, while I had it hooked up, that was going to be machined and they asked me what I welded it with as it was hard as rock and tearing up carbide cutters.
Apparently that 10% made a big difference.
@@michaelszczys8316 You got a tank for use with MIG. They are mostly gas mixes like C-25 (25%co2/75%argon). That's the most common mix used for short-circuit MIG. Then there's C-90 (90% helium/7 1/2% argon/2 1/2% CO2) which is used on stainless. When you get to 85% argon/15% CO2 you can set your machine to go into what's called Spray Transfer, it's more of a humming sound to the crakel of short-circuit. Some people have experimented with a mix as low as 5% CO2. Short-circut MIG works best with thin material and out of position work (horazonal, vertical, overhead) welding.
Great soldering and nice video. I’m also saying big thanks for the very clear and well spoken communication. Cheers.
Used this and its going. I installed it myself 2019! Still keeping cool and learn alot about HVAC
Been using Staybrite for 25 years and haven’t had an issue. I do sometimes hesitate using it on the hot gas side on some commercial equipment. Everywhere else 👍 especially Txv replacements,, perfect.
Same here
Will this solder be adaquate for a/c system? I thought you had to braze the lines of an a/c unit.
Hey can you use staybrite 8 on a heat pump
I want to believe is good for a/c units but I don’t know, can it really handle all the pressure?
@@elleondejuda4681 do not use Staybrite on a hot gas line. Silfos only
I was taught that as a general rule its best to open the suction king valve at the condenser first so that when you start up the system all of the oil that left out into the suction line will quickly return to the compressor.
That makes sense!
You will most likely damage or have issues with a scroll compressor if you don't open the suction valve first.
In the HVAC field for 32 years I tried Staybrite on a few installations always tested with nitrogen and pulled a vacuum to below 500 microns had 2 installations leak after a few years never used it again. 15% silver and flow nitrogen
Staybrite is not good for anything that experiences vibrations. If it truly was a superior product then large commercial cooling machines would use staybrite. Guess what, we don't lol.
Brazing is weaker and more prone to leak than higher end solders. Brazing weakens the copper because of the high heat required to make the joint. During pressure tests of brazed copper joints and staybrite 8 the brazed copper pipes burst before the soldered copper every time. HVAC Engineers know this yet brazing is still pushed as an industry standard for some reason.
I've been in the HVAC field for over 40 years and have always used #15 (or #45) solder for brazing. I've never had any leaks, and I've never seen copper derogation because of Brazing as suggested. I have seen this solder used as well and have seen leaks within 6 months. I'm not a fan of using plumbers solder for HVAC and Pro-Press either. Not sold.
@@briannatarelli430 Because the acid that is reacts with the gas, and can cause damage the pumps..... Weaker copper or weaker joints aren't exactly the problem.. If properly applied both work. both are well above safety standards. Both have a skill cap. One appears easier, but can cause damage to equipment, The other won't join and won't cause damage to equipment because the problem will get caught earlier.
@@Hamuel89 If you apply the flux properly it doesn't get into the line set. I know this because if you cut the copper joint open there is no extra flux on the inside of the joint.
Studying for my EPA 608. Can’t wait for the video. Thanks for the videos you make. 💯🔥🤙
Can you show me where can you find the EPA 608 materials to study?
You are so thorough in your work performance and directives. I am a Plumber primarily and simply come here to learn (obviously) and simply enjoy your teaching. YOU are an absolute professional. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. God Bless you.
I'm only 40, but learned the old school ways of brazing. I've tried HVAC Super Pro (no luck, too many blowouts, very particular about how you apply it), as well as Staybrite (doesn't like filling gaps - otherwise it can be handy) and crimping (expensive and I am not thrilled about o-rings). I'll probably braze until I die.
Brazing is correct for HVAC!! Solder is appropriate for plumbing!
Absolutely. Brazing is superior as far as I’m concerned. Fills gaps, no flux, no cleaning. Just down and dirty 💯
@@tycobb8621 I know we would all love to ditch the heavy nitrogen tanks and torch kit, but brazing is where it's at!
Just FYI...there are no-braze/no-solder HVAC fittings now, in the manner of SharkBite fittings for plumbing...not sure if they can be used in every code area, but they're available. Kinda pricy, too.
@@mcburcke I've seen them. I am skeptical about their longevity. I have a hard time trusting sharkbite and they run at a fraction of the pressures that say 410A would. Not hating, just skeptical. Some day I will try them. Maybe I'll try them on my next home system change-out so I can see how long they last.
been using that solder for many years for all hvac and refrigeration and have never had a recall for failed joints. great video👍👍
Mapp gas with Staybrite 8 is where it's at. That said I'm a little hesitant to do so without the valves covered and the Schrader cores removed. I also feel better flowing some nitrogen but have no evidence that it is actually needed.
I've also used a hand swaging tool instead of connectors so the tube I.D. and O.D. are tight.
Oh nitrogen does make a huge difference. The amount of deposits left in there without is crazy.
One thing I always do is when doing installs are removing the straighter valves an disconnecting the txv or piston lines.
It's a shame you can't get real mapp in the US anymore. You can braze with real mapp any not have to bother with Acetylene. The 'map' they sell in stores now is just propylene and only burns a few hundred more degrees than propane. It the real stuff is methylacetylene and burns almost 1000 degrees hotter. You can do most Acetylene work with it, especially with oxygen. I hate you can't get it in the states anymore. I hoarded a big tank and a few smaller ones due to this.
Awesome tools they make these days! What a change from when I played with this stuff ages ago.
Dude you keep blowing my mind with how well your videos are! super super helpful. I've been in the HVAC world for two years now and I wished I would have found your videos and tools list sooner. I do mainly new construction but also do finish work.
Thanks bro! I appreciate the feedback! Glad they are helping you out 👊🏼
Dont trust this guys advice as PRO because he is not. He will get you fired for his advice.
@@eddevoe2519 The guy is a licensed contractor… I have not seen very many of his videos… But, with one exception of violating NEC line of sight on a disconnect I have not seen anything seriously wrong… Although, I would do a number of things difference…
Going to be diy 2 mini splits in my motorcoach. Longtime plumbing soldered. Was dreading a ton of brazing because I have to custom build my hvac copper. The Staybrite 8 looks a little like a godsend to me, since I'll be working in the area of the diesel tank. Map Gas is so much easier than acetylene acetylene . Thanks for your instructional help
One of the best narratives I have seen. Great job man !! Thanks
Safety tip have a spray bottle of water when soldering in an attic ,crawl space , or any confined area …
Keep up the good work 👍
Wet rag. Also small fire extinguisher should be in the tool box.
StayBrite...Perfect for dryers...I still cool the service valves while connecting, but use it there too...thanks for the video.
Hey man! I just finished running a new line for my AC. Thanks for the videos and your very easy to understand explanations. The builder of the home undersized our unit so I had to run new lines for our new unit. It wasn’t hard, other than boring a hole through my basement wall. Long story short, the basement is finished and we didn’t want to demo the ceiling etc. so I went thru a small channel visible from the mechanical room all the way to the opposite side of the house, a real doozy! 😅😅 We are also replacing the furnace because it’s undersized too, plus the units are 30+ years old, so it was time for an upgrade. The most important part of this DIY project is the amount of savings, even with the special tools, new AC and furnace, I am way below my lowest quote of $9,000 just for an AC install. It’s crazy! I am close to $6,000, and I am getting a set of some new cool tools for my shop in the process. Thanks man! And keep the videos coming, they are exactly what us DIYers need.
I love StayBrite, it’s so convenient especially in an attic, no need to lug the big torches up there and heat up an already scorching hot attic.
Only thing is there always needs to be a snug fit, don’t try to fill in big gaps like brazing, use proper fittings.
Pretty sure you can braze 3/4 with mapp gas no prob.
Every time you add flux for a joint your adding acid to a refrigeration system
Right, don't try and make a 3/4 fit up with a 7/8s by bracing to fill the gap. Use proper fittings.
A huge thank you to you! Just switched out my hvac system - used staybrite 8 - worked great, saved thousands!
Amazing! Thanks so much for sharing!
One small piece of advice. On the core remover, always shutoff and remove the pusher to verify the core is gone before removing the tool. Last thing you want is to assume it went it and you got liquid spraying out on you. Love your setup and organization.
That’s a good point! Noted! Thanks man!
I will never forget that lol
I wouldn't personally wrap everything up as in the joints until pressure test is completed. Cause now you have to unwrap everything you just did god forbid there's a possible leak. Great educational video. Keep up the great work 👍
Excellent video. You did the job just like I do except I am still using a corded vacuum pump and I lightly flux the female fittings with a Q-tip. The Trublu hose is at least 4 times faster. I have been using Stay-Brite 8 on new installs and new copper joints for many years. NO flowing nitrogen, NO hauling an oxy-acetylene rig under a house, in an attic, or on a roof, and NO leaks. If you are really competent at brazing then you can become competent using Stay-Brite 8 in under 15 minutes.
It’s very hard to use the core removal tools. I tried a lot of times- it doesn’t work….. I don’t know why…. I work without this tool .
@@yuriigorg721 A lot of times the Schrader cores can get stuck inside the access port. Maybe it was cross-threaded when it was put in, maybe the o-ring fattened up or got chewed up and the core doesn't slide nicely out of the port, etc. Schrader cores in general can be very annoying at times.
Another awesome video dude! Thank you for sharing Ability Refrigerants. I Just ordered a bottle of R22 and you saved me a bunch of money. You wouldn’t believe what the supply houses in California are charging for a 30lbs bottle. Thank you again.
@Nobody Maybe he has an EPA 68 license. I just bought one as well and I have an EPA 68 license.
Well my local one wants $1782
Hey Nobody, I’ve been 608 EPA certified for over 8 years now. Take your negativity somewhere else.
Jbasto97 my local here wants $2,200.
@@SomeoneImportantLikeYou - Angry much? Lol.
Make sure your reg is backed off and when you turn on that nitrogen bottle on make sure the reg screw is not pointing at you. If the regulator has failed on the inside it could shoot that screw out like a bullet.
Good to know. Thanks for the tip bro
Thank Goodness for Goodman the BESTEST HVAC EQUIPMENT IN THE WORLD!!!!!
Standard charge is good for 15 feet of line set. You have way more than 15 feet of line. Additional refrigerant needs to be added at the rate of 0.6 oz per foot of line over 15 feet which I did not see addressed. I didn't see you check system pressures and adjust to subcooling which is what TXV's require. I can almost guarantee there is a low charge in the system causing the 22 delta at a vent which should be more in line with 18 or 19 at the vent. Delta should be taken at the coil, directly before the return air hits the coil and directly after the supply air exits the coil for best measurement. Too low a pressure at the coil can cause icing which hinders airflow. My own Goodman 3 ton calls for 11 degree subcooling and 21 degree delta which I get at the coil. I get 18 to 19 at the closest vent 3 feet from the coil. Hope this helps for future DIY'ers.
Thank you for showing proper temperature compensated pressure decay test and vacuum setup and vacuum decay test.
Awesome video! Thanks so much for your hard work! Currently sitting upstairs and it’s ice cold!!
Nice informative video of a very neat and clean installation. I am surprised though you didn't add any more refrigerant though. Goodman units come precharged for about 15feet of line set and from the video someone can see that just the rise (2 floors) is 16 feet. Therefore I expected to see you add more R410. In this Goodman set up with TXV the Subcooling should be 8 +-1 degree if the system is properly charged. Not sure if you missed those from the video due to time.
Again this video should be an example of how to do a proper installation for several technicians out on the field. Thanks for sharing.
Yes I did add refrigerant. I show this in some of my other videos. My apologies for any confusion.
Soft solder for hvac, never realized. This is the only video I’ve found using it.
1108.3.3 Soldered joints.
Joint surfaces to be soldered shall be cleaned and a flux conforming to ASTM B813 shall be applied. The joint shall be soldered with a solder conforming to ASTM B32. Solder joints shall be limited to refrigerant systems using Group A1 refrigerant and having a pressure of less than or equal to 200 psi (1378 kPa).
That is probably why you've never realized because its against code
@@te10183 IMC amended the "min pressure" code because of Sta-brite8. It's now only allowed for use with A1 group which most people are using. I'm sure A2L and non-regulated refrigerants under 5lb will be include in future.
I love your TH-cam and thank you sharing your Soldering An HVAC Linest Using Staybrite 8.
I'm not a Tech but I used this Staybrite 8 7- years ago when I installed a Complete A/C system and NG furnace. Until today has no issue 😂👍👍,...... I'm still Learning
Great video. I noticed only one item to advise others and that was the vacuum gauge was still attached when the lines were pressurized and could have damaged the gauge. I am a DIYer who loves to learn and I have not performed this work yet.
I ve been an hvac tech for 15 yrs, your teaching people the wrong way to do this. I guess people like you keep work coming my way!
You’re welcome
I'm not an hvac tech and I see thr flaws too
Why not explain the flaws...at least put one flaw. You already took the time to make a comment.
Exactly 😂 dudes a hack. But that keeps my bills paid
@@quarantainment293read the install manual
Thanks!
Thank you! 🙏🏻
Your right about the staybrite 8 but most codes require brazed joints.
Also wanted to comment on the sloppy line set in the attic, really didn't think about service ability running that line like that infront of the furnace and taking up a bunch of storage space for the customer running it along the attic floor. Not trying to knock you bro, just something to think about. Also really dig your vacuum set up.
Yeah I noticed the typical sloppy line set from the condenser unit and especially the attic area very poor craftsmanship work
video ,well done, I tried staybrite myself yesterday, absolutely would not stick to condenser tubing, followed your example exactly.
Did you forget to flux? I did that once and it wouldn’t stick whatsoever
If going up past 30 ft its best to put in a p trap on the low side (suction line) or use a dual suction riser with a" p" trap to get proper oil return to the compressor. Use a tubing bender when you can to avoid the expense of fittings and need to solder things that don't need to be there and potential leaks. Swedge instead of use couplings to avoid same.
Trap? The condenser isn't above the indoor coil. ???
Fittings often fit much snugger than a Swedged end Which is important when soldering.
@@craigglaser251 it depends on your expander tool. If you have one that hammers a steel expander tool into a tube its complete sloppy crap. The one I have presses in a swedge and gives a tight fit every time. Also there are ones that you can squeeze a swedge in that you can expand the tubing to an exact fit. Then all you have is one blind end to solder or braze instead of two and thsts one less thing to be a potential leak.
@@ALSomthin I have a pro fit kit that goes into a drill, not a great fit though. I’d be interested to know what the ones that you use
@@craigglaser251 yup the drill type is crap also. I tried sending you an amazon link but TH-cam blocked the reply post so you can look it up its an imperial eastman Swaging tool. I bought it when I first started out back in 87 or 88. There are some nicer ones out there too that are hydraulic. I use a click ratcheting bender instead of a lever bender also tried to send a link for that and it also got blocked for some reason.
Great video. I've been using Staybrite #8 for years.
Thanks for sharing! It’s great to hear of fellow sb8 believers
Awesome vacuum set up man! Also I noticed that you had the evaporator coil already installed by the time you checked to see if it was pressurized. I would recommend save yourself time and check to see if your coil has pressures prior to installation. Would hate to see an empty coil after it has been installed
That’s a great point. I’ll definitely start implementing that!! Cheers man
@@diyhvacguyHave Question on the NEW refrigerant coming out. When it will happen and Can we still install R410 A when the New refrigerant comes out ❓❓
ive been using Staybright 8 for 15 years or so and no leaks.. last year I took a system out I had replaced in 2009 which had never needed any refrigerant.. it got whacked by lightning so I puled it out but staybright 8 will fill the gaps and flow nicely if you hit the pipe evenly.. always rosebud for me... when repairing coils and piping inside a minisplit staynbright8 is a godsend as I dont have to heat that thin pipe so hot.. the chinese piping can be thin.. staybright melts at low temp so you can get it hot enough without trashing the fins on a coil.. I tried HVAC super pro years ago but it melted under the heating cycle of a heatpump and leaked...
When you open the valve for the freon flow thru the line, be aware that the sensor vacuum reader gets wet with freon with that config, you should use another valve remover to close it before open the valve
Nice install! So to be sure, the factory filled the condenser with enough refrigerant for the whole system and none needs to be added?
Great job! Comment: I would isolate your micron gauge with another Appion tool to avoid potential oil contamination when you release the charge. Question: I was bummed when you didn't show the sub-cool adjustment and how the new TXV worked. I installed a Goodman TXV on a new system and had to manually adjust the TXV. The TXV failed to operate correctly so it was removed and the piston reinstalled. Did you have to manually adjust the TXV or was it holding properly at the correct sub-cool?
It was spot on. I ran out of time on this one but I have a video coming out soon that’s specifically on superheat and subcooling.
I think they just come half way each way and just adjust as needed
Im sure you checked but please discuss subcooling readings to verify charge is adequate. Good job oninstallation sequence.
Very good job on this video. One minor thing: Using the crow's foot as you did is not correct. The actuual torque you applied is slightly higher because the open end of the wrench should be turned 90 degrees from the way you used it. This will maintain the torque arm length and result in a more precise torque application.
This wasn’t a crows foot. It’s adjustable torque wrench specifically for HVAC applications 👍🏼
I know its been a few months but that torque wrench he used was an adjustable end torque wrench. One integrated unit. The torque wrench already has the length of the wrench factored into its calculations.
Thanks for this great tutorial All your Tutorials are great. So much controversy of brazing versus staybrite. I don’t know if staybrite can be used on the newer A2L systems or not? Are the compressors soldered or brazed from the manufacturers and if one were to replace a compressor with all the movement isn’t it better to Braze?
Out of curiosity regarding your soldered joints using STAYBRITE as opposed to brazing. I am assuming brazing has been the chosen method due to the HIGH pressures in the HVAC system. That said, my question to you is:
Since your FIRST solder job vs. braze, how long has it been and how is it holding up?
I’ve been using Staybrite 8 for about a year but I have a friend who’s only used Staybrite 8 for several years, zero issues. Not to mention Stev Lav on TH-cam also has been using Staybrite 8 for many many years. He swears by it. Tensil strength is 10,000 psi when done right
Read the specs for StayBrite 8. It is designed for HVAC high pressures (10,600 psi shear strength). BTW, Steve Lav said in one of his videos that he used regular plumbing solder to install his condensing unit but uses StayBrite 8 for installing customers’ equipment.
Just fyi brazing copper and silver has a tensile if about 70,000. So consider that and the porosity of the solder.
Also a solder with a flame with flux, it seems suspect to me.
For a system that will probably have less than 200 psi I don’t see the reason to have a joint rated for 70000
@@Josh-ux6zz lol there is a reason your gauges go to 800 buddy. Also you need to get real
Nice video!!!!!! When soldering the condenser I always wrap the king valves and remove the valve cores just for general principle. Staybright is an excellent solder, however it' strength is subject to temperature. I don't use it on heat pumps, but, straight cool units are fine. On heat pumps I use 45% silver solder and solder with a turbo torch with a 1/4 tip. I am a mechanical contractor in Florida where heat is a big factor and have been in the business for over 45 years. Only one suggestion! Wrap or remove any components with neoprene seals as it will save any problems in the future. I do a lot of work with and for Lennox and one of my biggest problems is leaking king valves that have to be replaced because of over heating! One other suggestion, before soldering, practice with a scrap of copper as this will help you avoid overheating components. BTW, I am also an instructor and ran a company with 80 employees with 20 service trucks and 3 install trucks. Again, nice video, maybe just a couple tweaks would make it a little better!!!!!!!
LMFAO to all the posters here that are full of crap. I have been using Harris Sta-brite for 43 years. The actual company rep came to our office and asked us to use it, showed us how it worked in 1981! I and our other techs have installed literally tens of thousands of systems residential/commercial/heavy industrial, and have NEVER had to go repair a leak on systems we installed. If you all are dead set on your 15% that is your choice, but don't act like you know anything about Sta-brite and try to give your B.S. "stories". We will keep putting money in our pockets with saved time, nitrogen, brazing gas, and burnt up copper on systems that will ALWAYS develop leaks. P.S. it is approved for use by EVERY manufacturer of refrigerant systems!
Before this guy edits his post further, he's claiming that none of the units he's installed has leaked in 43 years.
@@pipebrain4868 Some of us ACTUALLY know what we are doing when installing A/C & refrigeration systems! Let me guess, you are rat?!? LMFAO - thought so.
Thanks for that. I learned how to solder from an old timer many moons ago and he drilled cleanliness of the copper as the number one consideration. I have never had a leak on any copper water lines I have installed. I'm going to install my own system using Stabrite. In all the videos I've seen of people brazing copper the copper is not even clean. I'll practice first, and pressure test.
@@pipebrain4868 Sorry that you obviously lack any useful life skills! lmfao
Thanks for sharing. Sweet to use low temp soldering without need for nitrogen. It's same technique as soldering copper water pipe fittings. Will this Stay brite solder hold higher pressures of new freon types?
Yesir. It has a tensil strength of 10,000 psi
Man that stay bright 8 is something else. I need to try it out, oxy acetylene is starting to get expensive with it being almost 70 bucks every time I refill both tanks. That plus the nitrogen and I’m over hundred bucks. Not including the silfos rods if I need.
The staybrite 8 is $100
All those fittings add up too no copper benders or swaying tool
When you were running the vacuum pump I saw you removing the valve from suction line. Did u also remove it from liquid line when you placed the micron gauge or do u just leave it on the liquid line and remove it only on suction line. Thx
Very clean and neat job I've never soldered my line sets but I now I would who would have thunk it but curious why not hang that line sets to rafters instead of the floor you do a very good job impressed
The copper will bust before the stay bright , great job .
😂😂😂😂😂
It has nothing to do with strength. You can use regular solder. Brazing is used so you don't kill everyone inside if there's a house fire. Low melting point solder will separate in a house fire. Refrigerants are toxic if exposed to fire..
what makes u say that
@@allykatt940 ignorance! 😂
It’s true despite all the commercial HVAC Staybrite haters trying to justify their jobs.
I have had good results with Zero-Sil. It's a 15 % phosphorus copper alloy. Melting point is close to 1350 degrees f. And I always flow dry nitrogen or argon through the lines. Been using phosphorus bronze rods for over 35 years and never had an issue. The larger units I built had integral horsepower semi-hermetic Copelemetic compressor with VibSorb connectors at suction and discharge. I was designing and building dehumidifiers for low temperature lumber dry kilns. They worked well. Most used R290. 😊
Been using stay bright 8 since 1985 works good
Why txp over piston? In cars we call them orfice tube. Ford and GM.
So grateful to you pros sharing you knowledge and producing these videos. Mad respect for your skills bro
Homeowner should get a lineset cover instead of strapping it. Can even order from the big box stores. Makes it look like a rain gutter and protects the insulation from weather. Annoying that Goodman put the drier inside the compressor, had a great opportunity to install it near the TXV and keep it out of the weather. On another note, I spent 2 hours looking for my nitrogen and finally realized I had put a length of 8" round duct over the bottle to keep it from being bumped around - so always check your ducts haha
Any mechanics out there with a socket style torque wrench, you can use a flare crowfoot socket - as long as you are checking torque with the socket at 90 degrees to left or right, the torque will be accurate. If measuring lineset length to check amount of refrigerant to add, easier to subtract total length of lineset subtract length of each piece you cut off - vs trying to measure the actual lineset length. 25:00 also there's a position on the service valve that shuts off the ports!
Awesome tips. Thanks brotha!
@thediyhvacguy
you are clear spoken, seem professional, and have a very good tool setup. not sold on the staybrite. I've been in the trade 30+ yrs and feel more confident brazing with nitrogen then soldering. will admit there has been times ive used staybrite when replacing a few txvs over the years but try to braze everything if possible.
not a big fan of the CPS micron gauge you're using. seeing you already know about the trublu products, id highly recommend you check out their micron gauges.
lastly and more importantly IMO, is your checking the charge method...yes, its important to check your delta T but thats nowhere close to how the charge should be checked on a Hvac system. very disappointed that you even have the tools to do it correctly (fieldpiece gauges with temp clamps) but didn't use them. getting your superheat and subcooling readings are REQUIRED to confirm not only the charge is correct, but that all components of the system are working properly. having a 20 plus degree delta T on your air temps are nice to see but not always going to be seen, especially in a home that has a very humidity level. you could easily only have 15-16 degree delta T today, then let the system run 24hrs and then recheck the delta T and now have 20+ degree delta T. the big problem here is that if you dump more refrigerant in the system to try and get that 20 degree delta T it likely won't happen if the txv is working properly and now you have an overcharged system.
bottom line is the manufacturer of every system will advise you of its proper subcooling when using a txv. and if your not using a txv, then you'll need to know the outdoor drybulb temp and indoor wetbulb temp to change the system by superheat.
You don’t wipe off your joints after soldering to remove excess flux and solder to prevent corrosion?
You didn't flow nitrogen through the lineset when you were soldering it. That causes the copper on the inside (where you can't see it) to oxidize (since there's oxygen there and not nitrogen) leaving contaminants in the system. If I got this wrong, please reply and let me know why it's OK to do it the way you did. I was trained that you should always flow nitrogen while brazing or soldering refrigerant lines.
Looks good for all joints except compressor outlet through condenser input. Have you ever seen it used on compressor output? Not sure if I would trust it for approaching 300 degs F and lots of vibration stress on compressor high side outlet.
So what is the tool called that you used to remove / install the Schrader Valve without loosing refrigerant? This video Sir, WAS SIMPLY AMAZING, NOT TO MENTION VERY WELL STEP BY STEP EXPLANATIONS ! Solely based upon the MATTER OF MY OPINION, WHICH I CERTAINLY WOULD SAY OTHER VIEWERS WOULD AGREE WITH ME WHEN I SAY, " THIS DIY TUTORIAL VIDEO SHOULD WIN " BEST DIY TUTORIAL VIDEO OF THE YEAR / DECADE", HANDS DOWN ! Thank You Sir, for not only taking the time to make this video but also explaining the process, tools being used & the components thats involved when being worked on / & or installed. AGAIN - SIMPLY MARVELOUS-
VERY WELL REHEARSED/ PLANNED /EXPLAINED/ CLEAR RECORDING WITH VERY CLEAR CRISP NARRATING VOICE THAT COULD BE UNDERSTOOD WITH LITTLW TO NO EFFORTS !!
Have you ever had your micron gauge contaminated with refrigerant oil. I always remove mine from system before releasing refrigerant. Great video!
Never had a problem with it.
You can use iso prop alch to clean the sensor, I'd be more concerned about letting in non condensibles when removing that tool. I introduce enough refrigerant to make it positive, than remove my tool. I clean it every time I use it, never had an issue.
This is a very good video. Leaned some new things. I have a question, when you release the refrigerant into both lines, what is the state of the refrigerant in each line? Gas / Liquid?
I love staybrite 8. I suck at brazing. Plus, it anneals the copper and can damage it too easily.
been using it for yrs but have to make sure your joints a super clean even with 410 a
Next time wait to pressure test before letting the insulation cover the joint. I rather get either 50, 75 or 100 foot line-set no joints to possible leak. Remove the schrader valve when soldiering. Great setup. Who much did you charge
Hey great video!!! but here's my Question.. We do alot of splits in mobile homes and from the jump they taught us to check out how many footage on line sets because we would add if needed freon to the system based on how many feet used????
Great video, Goodman doesn't have the best reputation but what could be changed/upgraded easily to bring it up to par? Cap, Contactor, Pressure switches? Everything I've worked on had compromises made, over engineered in some areas and under engineered in others. What weak links if any are in the Goodman product Condenser units? Thanks in advance for any input.
I have used stay bright 8 for many years, so long can't remember back that far. ON issues.
Nice video man all good I have heard good things about staybright and 410a just haven’t used it yet.
One thing that only concerns me on this install because the evaporator is a lot higher than the compressor is if an oil trap would have been necessary for proper circulation on this long vertical riser ?
This is exactly how the old system was and it was 30 years old so I’m not concerned about it. I think because it goes up then back down to the floor then up it will act as a trap.
Nice clean job.
Units that need a trap Goodman specifies 79ft and up need a trap and it also specifies it’s different equipment read the manuals on them and it will educate you on stuff like this
You need to install a trap if the compressor is higher (installed on the roof) than the evaporator. A trap is definitely not needed for this installation due to the short run and oil can easily drain back to the compressor.
hey bro ,I suggest that the valve core must be taken out when welding, which can easily lead to damage to the valve core. refrigerant leak。and..The most reliable welds are high temperature electrodes. Dye aids can aid in welding, and can also seep into the pipes, clogging the system.
Definitely called for when brazing, but he's using mapp.
When installing an old unit with a new unit, that's condenser and air handler, How do you flush the lines? The unit used R-22 and the new unit uses R-410A.
A couple questions. 1: why aren't you sweeping the lines with nitrogen 2: why aren't you pulling the Schrader valves so you don't damage the rubber seal?
Thanks
Nice job, instead of using a coupling in the attic on the 3/8 line I would have used the filter/dryer. I did see it get installed at any location.
No Nitrogen run while Soldering?
Have you ever checked in the copper those you soldered? I've done before, it is still built up some amount of Oxidation.
No cleaning off after Soldering?
And I don't think it is stronger than Brazing base on label on the Material
Can the Wrought copper fittings for Air Conditioning, Potable Water, Refrigeration be used in HVAC which are sold in big box stores like Home Depot? or would I have to buy the ACR copper fittings that are mainly only sold at a HVAC supply house?
What I haven’t heard in this video is whether this is a R22 or a 410A system. The reason of my concern is the pressure difference between the two. I can see Sta-Brit 8 on R22, but would you use it on 410A? What about the new refrigerants now that 410A is being outlawed.
I always put something under any place I braze or solder. You burned up the black insulation on the evaporator connection . I would think to open liquid line valve first.
THANKS FOR THE DEMONSTRATIION ,ONE THING WOULD LIKE MORE CLARIFICATION ON LIQUID YOU APPLED BEFORE SOLDERING.SUPOSE i WELD WITHOUT APPLYING THE MATERIAL,WHAT IS THE EFFECT UPON?
You are an inspiring guy. And I guess others might have mentioned, but shouldn't you wear safety goggles (with tinting) while brazing with an acetylene torch?
How do you know if the pre-charge in the condenser is adequate for the length of the ine set and the evaporator you were using? If you had a short line set, could the charge be too much?
Normally the condenser is pre-charged for up to 25 feet of line-set. Check the instructions with condenser. I’ve had short lineset runs and still had to add 2 lbs before. Sometimes factory charge is good, sometimes it’s undercharged.
Nice video but I just wondering why is that liquid line not insulated?
For me this would only make sence if that unit is only used for heating.
Would love to hear your explanation
Yes this is a straight air conditioner so the suction line is the only one that needs insulated 👍🏼
One of my favorite videos you've done!!! Great job, brother! God bless!
Great video. I would hire this guy in a microsecond!
Brazing copper causes it to become annealed, which results in a reduction in the strength of the pipe. The pressure of the refrigerant causes pin holes and splits in annealed copper pipe.
huh? ridged copper pipe vs a roll of annealed copper, if it is a line set then it is annealed copper, if you buy ridged copper pipe then it is not annealed. one is on a roll the other is long straight pipes, so dumb.
Nice video. Got couple a questions . Where is the filter dryer? No nitrogen flown when soldering. Is procedure or compressor dead 1 year. no take out the cores when soldering . Is not you can chose but you can melt the valve o rings . When releasing refrigerant you release from liquid because is that the refrigerant circle to txv to evaporator to condenser not the opposite. And last that line set ix x inches . you cut some you ad some but the manifacture precharge 79 is for the equipment ans specific for how much lineset length. And the last question that vacum gauge cps if you connect it without a valve core the nitrogen presure will brake the sensor is vacum rated . . Sorry a lot of question but if you got time i will be happy for the response
Filter dryer is build into the compressor on the Goodman condensers. No nitrogen needed because no soot is created at 400 degrees with soldering, wheras it does at 1200 degrees during brazing. The cores don’t need to be taken out again because it’s such low heat. I’ve heard it doesn’t matter which side you open up first. I’ve done it both ways, but I let the refrigerant settle for at least 20 mins before turning on the system. On the lineset you add .6oz per foot over 15 ft. So if it’s 20 ft, you’d add 3oz to accommodate. I ran out of time to film that part of this video. The cps is unharmed and ok to use up to 400 psi of positive pressure. I’ve never had an issue with this method. You could use a core removal tool if you wanted to isolate it.
Cheers
how much of the vacuum was destroyed when you took off the gauge at about29:00?
I was wondering that too. Sounded like a lot.
I notice you using it for new installation. Does Staybrite8 also works with repair that you just torch-remove since it might have old silver residue on them? Thanks for video I think it would be great for TXV install.
Even though the condenser is precharged, don't you need to add freon to account for volume in the lines and evaporator? I wish getting licensing would be so easy in Canada :(
Very informative video. I like your brazing technique. I think I'll be do it that way from now on. What type of gas were you using for the braze, or should I say which bottle of gas were you using. The yellow bottle or the blue bottle. I usually use oxy settling tank and the oxygen tank. But I could see you were using something not sure what it was because I can only see the tip from where the fire was coming out. Thanks for sharing.
Yellow map gas bottle but you can totally use the blue on if you want 👍🏼
Glad to see someone using StayBrite 8.
Curious to why you remove the Schrader valve vs just using a ball valve with a pin depressor? Is this just so you can pull a vacuum more quickly or some other reason?