As frustrating as the detective work can be, we know its a pain to include us in the process so thank you for taking the time to care enough to educate us and enlighten us. You are a brilliant guy for sure and we all are the better for it when watching your vids. way to go.
Hey guy - when u do a compression test you should let the cylinder pump just a little longer than you were doing - let the cylinder pump up till it stops and then another pump or two - usually takes 6 or 7 pumps
The links are copper sometimes you can't see them and they told us to just stretch the chains out and paint the links if we needed to when putting them together. In the Ford Modulars Engines we've seen the oil restrictors get partway stopped off to the cams and cause lash adjuster rattling even follower and cam failure sometimes the noise will go away sometimes not at first. Small pieces of rvt will get caught in one of them reducing oil to the upper end of one side or the other. Not saying this is your problem just something to note if you need to look futher. There's a few videos on you tube and a lot of post on Ford sites.
i blew air through all of the oil passages but that doesnt mean something wasnt stuck and worked its way loose. when i cranked it over (before i set the cab back on) i watched the the cam get oiled from front to back on bothe sides so that was ok....at that time. right the copper or silver or black marking dont matter as long as you mark the needed links yourself.
I used to work in a European workshop specializing in bmw, merc and vw. we had a rare early 70s merc v8. from memory a 600? the car had had a resto job done on the body and hadn't run for 10 years and he want us to get it up and running. I had the rocker covers to check the timing chain and timing. it was all ok so i pulled the plugs out and went to turn the motor over by hand and it locked up coming up to TDC . Buggar!. Worked out which cyls were coming to the top of their stroke and backed them of a 1/4 of a turn and had a look into the cylinder with a little bore scope and i couldn't see anything wrong. Blew air into the plug holes and turned it over and still it locked up. Had another look with the bore scope, Couldn't see anything. We pulled the heads and found the carbon on the cyl head and piston had slid to the lower side of the cylinder (V8) and jammed between the piston and head and when i'd turned it over it stuck to the head and couldn't be seen on the bore scope. Scraped the pistons cleaned it all up and put it back together. all good.
I know this is an old video but I recognize your pain about leaning into those engine compartments- what I do is simple - pull the front wheels of and bring that truck down to size...
I used to save plug ins off old wiring looms, different ones so I had an assortment of them in a coffee can or junk drawer, I also used to copy tools I seen on the truck and build my own, and the handiest tool I bought at a hardware store cause the one on the truck was made out of "un atainim" but it had a wand on it with a camera and you could stuff it in hard to see places to see if the oil shaft was turning. Just my four cents worth that you already have.
Yes Ford Triton engines are interferance engines if you spin the cams or crank without the timing chains on them or spin them backwards you can do severe damage to them . Also if the timing chain guides break pieces will end up in the oil pan damaging oil pickup tube and screen and possibly the oil pump.
Just over 140 thou? What are you worried about? Its got a long time to go as good as you are keeping up with it. My current 01 v10 triton is over 563 on the upper and lower. Yours is still a baby my friend. They are built like a diesel. This is my thrid v10 triton. My first one died at 1.2 and my second one went at just over 967. Just got to take good care of them. Anyone who has something bad to say about a triton 10 only has something bad to say about them because they didn't know how to take care of them.
I seen a forward technician talk about how there's a little snub or tiny key or metal little circle or something in one of those Cam sprockets or I cannot remember he said that part aftermarket eventually there And OEM always Fails, I think it mechanically advances or does something for your Cameron crank but I have no idea spent so long since I seen that video,let us know
might be worth switching out the coil and or injector with the fouled cylinder with another if a new plug doesn't solve it. probably worth checking oil for gasoline as well
oil is clean. no gas in it. i figured when it goes back together i would switch that injector and coil to another hole....if the miss follows...replaced one or the other until it is fixed.
From what you showed and me not knowing the timeline of this engine noise i.e. Did it happen right after you started engine for first time or later after driving. One thing is for certain, you cannot clean those intakes, you must replace the intake if previous engine had a catastrophic failure. I always use an an engine oil primer and on these engines the chain tensioner will not pump up properly if you do not use a oil tank to prime the engine. You should remove plugs and inspect inside the cylinders with some type of borescope for piston or other damage and replace the intake before starting. You could also take a small screwdriver and pry a little on the valve springs on the cylinder with fouled plug. A broke spring can hang on itself and show good compression when cranking. I'm betting on trash, metal, or porcelain from the old intake and something got down in there.... But first try borascope and also look at back of timing cover and see if chain was hitting!!! If chain was hitting, look with flashlight in oil for aluminum. Ford had a problem with injectors sticking or leaking on some models, and this would cause hard cranking or starting. That would foul a plug out too, and you should check with scan tool and correct pid to view misfires once everything is fixed. Harley Davidson truck I built, the machine shop ground the valves and didn't check valve stem height. But that was a dead misfire due to low compression. Check all the above. I think you have to straighten these type heads, not just shave them! Every other one of these motors I did, the camshaft bores in the head were trashed and therefore heads were trashed. I suspect the heads had been off and been shaved or engine ran low on oil. Some engines the manufactures says do not shave heads at all, but that's a little drastic. As with a bad transmission, I would replace any oil coolers. Might be full of metal! Late model Fords are a pain in the butt. Really bad transmission and engine designs from Ford in the past 20 years. At least the newer models, they got the engine back out from under the firewall. Ford dealer shops have a ton of work, that's for sure.
the ford service manual doesnt mention using an oil tank to prime. if it was necessary it would be in the latest publication i have. these tensioners have a base spring pressure with oil pressure assist. there is an orifice that sprays oil on the chain. there is no air trap. they drain off after being shut off. i have done this identical repair on 11 of these 6.8 engines and timing chain, tensioners, guides and phasers on 5 5.4 engines in the last year and a half with no problems. i have never used an oil primer tank. this engine had oil pressure to the top of the engine before i closed up the valve covers. i watched the chain tensioner spraying oil on the timing chain. the chain was not hitting the timing cover. also the chain was installed just 2 months prior to me buying the donor truck. i already checked the spring tension on all the valves with the valve spring compressor tool not a screw driver. the original engine had been apart for 2 years. as i said in the video, i had forgotten about the intake. at average 165 lbs compression and less than 2% leakdown on each cylinder, i am going to call the pistons and rings good.
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS Maybe so, but changing the cam phaser on the 5.4 using Ford rubber tool, the chain came loose and ate into the timing cover. Had to drop oil pan to get all the aluminum out. I posted what to check, so check it first. From then on I always use the oil primer.
have you ever used sil glyde it is the best thing i have ever used like on the fresh air tubes makes them easier to get on and off and seals dust out. keeps radiator hoses where the stay soft and easy to get off
right. i have good compression, good fuel, good fuel pressure, good timing and no air restrictions. i was surprised the ford spec on the compression was in a range chart. it said if the highest compression was xxx and the lowest was xxx then it was ok. in my case it said since the highest was 170 psi, the lowest could be 127 psi and be ok...i surely wouldnt be happy with that. i would think you would feel and hear any cylinder that had that large a spread.
we had an old F-350 flat bed dually welding truck in a quarry where l used to work...it had a 300 straight line 6 with a top loader 4 spd(they don't like automatics)...it fixed everything in the shop, plant & pit - l think they even pulled the cable off the dragline with it...it's a push rod (almost square) motor with a gear driven cam (no chain) & l think there's a main bearing for every connecting rod...l like the older ones with the 1 barrel Carter carb...if you have enough tools to fix a lawnmower, you can fix this truck...l had the same motor in a F150 stick shift & it would cruise 70 mph - l mean, what else do you want..l have a 2008 RAM 1500 with a 3.7 V6 chain drive overhead cam heads...l got it new & it chattered up some when new...the book said it would go away & it did...unless you get a dead skip again, l wouldn't worry about it - it's got oil & coolant, nuts on & nothing leaking on the ground
Just a suggestion but you might want to clean your voltmeter, it's the one tool that you want to keep clean especially the exterior around the buttons in the knob?
JC--- You Are The Most Organized and Dedicated 5,4L engine Mechanic In The History of tritons and coyote assembly.
No changed my mind after I watched you working over this camshaft parts
As frustrating as the detective work can be, we know its a pain to include us in the process so thank you for taking the time to care enough to educate us and enlighten us. You are a brilliant guy for sure and we all are the better for it when watching your vids. way to go.
This is why I really like your channel. You admit to being human and that you are still capable of making a mistake and taking it back apart to verify
Hi JC. This is what your channel is all about. Fixing things and trouble shooting in a really understandable way 👍🏻 Cheers Stevie 😎🏴
Hey guy - when u do a compression test you should let the cylinder pump just a little longer than you were doing - let the cylinder pump up till it stops and then another pump or two - usually takes 6 or 7 pumps
That’s not dumb luck, that’s skill!🤣 Doing the compression test is good piece of mind. I don’t have that! Yet!🤣👍
The links are copper sometimes you can't see them and they told us to just stretch the chains out and paint the links if we needed to when putting them together.
In the Ford Modulars Engines we've seen the oil restrictors get partway stopped off to the cams and cause lash adjuster rattling even follower and cam failure sometimes the noise will go away sometimes not at first. Small pieces of rvt will get caught in one of them reducing oil to the upper end of one side or the other. Not saying this is your problem just something to note if you need to look futher. There's a few videos on you tube and a lot of post on Ford sites.
i blew air through all of the oil passages but that doesnt mean something wasnt stuck and worked its way loose. when i cranked it over (before i set the cab back on) i watched the the cam get oiled from front to back on bothe sides so that was ok....at that time. right the copper or silver or black marking dont matter as long as you mark the needed links yourself.
With a proper scanner you can run a power balance test and see what cylinder is not acting right. I have the maximus 3.0
I used to work in a European workshop specializing in bmw, merc and vw. we had a rare early 70s merc v8. from memory a 600? the car had had a resto job done on the body and hadn't run for 10 years and he want us to get it up and running. I had the rocker covers to check the timing chain and timing. it was all ok so i pulled the plugs out and went to turn the motor over by hand and it locked up coming up to TDC . Buggar!. Worked out which cyls were coming to the top of their stroke and backed them of a 1/4 of a turn and had a look into the cylinder with a little bore scope and i couldn't see anything wrong. Blew air into the plug holes and turned it over and still it locked up. Had another look with the bore scope, Couldn't see anything. We pulled the heads and found the carbon on the cyl head and piston had slid to the lower side of the cylinder (V8) and jammed between the piston and head and when i'd turned it over it stuck to the head and couldn't be seen on the bore scope. Scraped the pistons cleaned it all up and put it back together. all good.
I know this is an old video but I recognize your pain about leaning into those engine compartments- what I do is simple - pull the front wheels of and bring that truck down to size...
I used to save plug ins off old wiring looms, different ones so I had an assortment of them in a coffee can or junk drawer, I also used to copy tools I seen on the truck and build my own, and the handiest tool I bought at a hardware store cause the one on the truck was made out of "un atainim" but it had a wand on it with a camera and you could stuff it in hard to see places to see if the oil shaft was turning. Just my four cents worth that you already have.
Yes Ford Triton engines are interferance engines if you spin the cams or crank without the timing chains on them or spin them backwards you can do severe damage to them . Also if the timing chain guides break pieces will end up in the oil pan damaging oil pickup tube and screen and possibly the oil pump.
Also you scanner let's you run a relative compression test on Ford engines. It has been pretty accurate in showing if one cylinder is dead
Just over 140 thou? What are you worried about? Its got a long time to go as good as you are keeping up with it. My current 01 v10 triton is over 563 on the upper and lower. Yours is still a baby my friend. They are built like a diesel. This is my thrid v10 triton. My first one died at 1.2 and my second one went at just over 967. Just got to take good care of them. Anyone who has something bad to say about a triton 10 only has something bad to say about them because they didn't know how to take care of them.
You can't put a price on peace of mind.
I seen a forward technician talk about how there's a little snub or tiny key or metal little circle or something in one of those Cam sprockets or I cannot remember he said that part aftermarket eventually there And OEM always Fails, I think it mechanically advances or does something for your Cameron crank but I have no idea spent so long since I seen that video,let us know
might be worth switching out the coil and or injector with the fouled cylinder with another if a new plug doesn't solve it. probably worth checking oil for gasoline as well
oil is clean. no gas in it. i figured when it goes back together i would switch that injector and coil to another hole....if the miss follows...replaced one or the other until it is fixed.
On those trucks and your to short let down the front tyres I haven’t got the height problem I got the roundness problem 😂
Any chance of an update on this video,I watched all the other videos about this engine and it would be nice to see it run.
i havnt had time to get back to it yet but i will be getting on it as soon as i get time. hopefully this week.
The special tool made us cranky.
funny kevin
From what you showed and me not knowing the timeline of this engine noise i.e. Did it happen right after you started engine for first time or later after driving. One thing is for certain, you cannot clean those intakes, you must replace the intake if previous engine had a catastrophic failure. I always use an an engine oil primer and on these engines the chain tensioner will not pump up properly if you do not use a oil tank to prime the engine. You should remove plugs and inspect inside the cylinders with some type of borescope for piston or other damage and replace the intake before starting.
You could also take a small screwdriver and pry a little on the valve springs on the cylinder with fouled plug. A broke spring can hang on itself and show good compression when cranking. I'm betting on trash, metal, or porcelain from the old intake and something got down in there....
But first try borascope and also look at back of timing cover and see if chain was hitting!!! If chain was hitting, look with flashlight in oil for aluminum.
Ford had a problem with injectors sticking or leaking on some models, and this would cause hard cranking or starting. That would foul a plug out too, and you should check with scan tool and correct pid to view misfires once everything is fixed.
Harley Davidson truck I built, the machine shop ground the valves and didn't check valve stem height. But that was a dead misfire due to low compression. Check all the above. I think you have to straighten these type heads, not just shave them! Every other one of these motors I did, the camshaft bores in the head were trashed and therefore heads were trashed. I suspect the heads had been off and been shaved or engine ran low on oil. Some engines the manufactures says do not shave heads at all, but that's a little drastic.
As with a bad transmission, I would replace any oil coolers. Might be full of metal! Late model Fords are a pain in the butt. Really bad transmission and engine designs from Ford in the past 20 years. At least the newer models, they got the engine back out from under the firewall. Ford dealer shops have a ton of work, that's for sure.
the ford service manual doesnt mention using an oil tank to prime. if it was necessary it would be in the latest publication i have. these tensioners have a base spring pressure with oil pressure assist. there is an orifice that sprays oil on the chain. there is no air trap. they drain off after being shut off. i have done this identical repair on 11 of these 6.8 engines and timing chain, tensioners, guides and phasers on 5 5.4 engines in the last year and a half with no problems. i have never used an oil primer tank. this engine had oil pressure to the top of the engine before i closed up the valve covers. i watched the chain tensioner spraying oil on the timing chain. the chain was not hitting the timing cover. also the chain was installed just 2 months prior to me buying the donor truck. i already checked the spring tension on all the valves with the valve spring compressor tool not a screw driver. the original engine had been apart for 2 years. as i said in the video, i had forgotten about the intake. at average 165 lbs compression and less than 2% leakdown on each cylinder, i am going to call the pistons and rings good.
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS Maybe so, but changing the cam phaser on the 5.4 using Ford rubber tool, the chain came loose and ate into the timing cover. Had to drop oil pan to get all the aluminum out. I posted what to check, so check it first. From then on I always use the oil primer.
i dont know what happened to your 5.4 but i have never had that happen to me. all have gone good so far.
have you ever used sil glyde it is the best thing i have ever used like on the fresh air tubes makes them easier to get on and off and seals dust out. keeps radiator hoses where the stay soft and easy to get off
no. not yet.
Great video
Let the air out of front tires allow it to go down 4,6 inches
Gotta get down there to do it, lol.
if the plug's trying to fire but getting fouled out maybe the lash is too tight & & staying open too long
i hope not...it is not adjustable.
well it's probably just the plug - current, fuel, compression are all there
right. i have good compression, good fuel, good fuel pressure, good timing and no air restrictions. i was surprised the ford spec on the compression was in a range chart. it said if the highest compression was xxx and the lowest was xxx then it was ok. in my case it said since the highest was 170 psi, the lowest could be 127 psi and be ok...i surely wouldnt be happy with that. i would think you would feel and hear any cylinder that had that large a spread.
we had an old F-350 flat bed dually welding truck in a quarry where l used to work...it had a 300 straight line 6 with a top loader 4 spd(they don't like automatics)...it fixed everything in the shop, plant & pit - l think they even pulled the cable off the dragline with it...it's a push rod (almost square) motor with a gear driven cam (no chain) & l think there's a main bearing for every connecting rod...l like the older ones with the 1 barrel Carter carb...if you have enough tools to fix a lawnmower, you can fix this truck...l had the same motor in a F150 stick shift & it would cruise 70 mph - l mean, what else do you want..l have a 2008 RAM 1500 with a 3.7 V6 chain drive overhead cam heads...l got it new & it chattered up some when new...the book said it would go away & it did...unless you get a dead skip again, l wouldn't worry about it - it's got oil & coolant, nuts on & nothing leaking on the ground
if it skips again with a good plug, plug a diagnostic box in & see what it says
Start it with it opened up for a second or two......
How long does it take to get this good. Luca
Just a suggestion but you might want to clean your voltmeter, it's the one tool that you want to keep clean especially the exterior around the buttons in the knob?
You need to buy this. Waterproof HD 2M/7mm Endoscope Lens Mini USB Inspection Camera with 6 LED Lights Borescope for Android Smartphone/PC/Lapt op
-👍👍👍👍👍
they are interference motors
ill take my chevy 454 over that overhead cam disaster anyday