Thanks, I found this quite useful. BTW, the book torques are 62 ft-lbs for the 17mm screws and 32 ft-lb for the 14mm screws. I found it easier to slide (well, pry) the bracket off the rotor with the pads on there, and remove them after it's off. No danger of marring the rotors if they're going to be re-used.
Petroleum based lubricants like WD40...oh nevermind. 75 people before me already said that. Great video man. Had a Toyota for 15 years using W40 all over and never had a problem.
Definitely a weekend mechanic, glad your not doing my brakes. Wd 40 is not a Lubricant, its for Repelling water/moisture on metallic/metal surfaces etc. I watched in horror as it dripped onto the rotor. They make special grease for the brake pad calipers/pads. Also as mentioned, you should open the cap on the master brake cylinder, this will allow easy flow back of the fluid and not cause the pistons to score also prevents the brake piston from moving back out and then having to compress again.
Use slider lube for the caliper bolt/pins. Petroleum based lubricants such as WD40 and anti seize will eat away at the rubber boot the the bolts go through and will allow moisture in, causing the caliper bolts to seize up. and you can touch the rotor, just not with dirty greasy hands as the grease from your hands might contaminate the pads.
Everyone please lube the slide pins as this guy didnt. If you dont the slides wont move and the pads will wear unevenly. Change the hardware also on the caliper bracket.
appreciate a common guy (non mechanic) teaching other common guys how to do it and showing the mistakes you learned from it. i was thinking about buying a rogue couple yrs old. your thoughts? anything else you did yourself?
8:08, love the curious chicken!! LOL Also, you tend to mumble a bit sometimes, and those are the really good parts that make this video relatable. Good job on editing, makes it easier to watch. Just make sure you lock the auto exposure on the camera so that it doesn't change when your white sleeves get in the shot.
as for the caliper piston, i didn't see anything wrong with the way that you retracted it. you used an old brake pad to evenly distribute the force from your clamp. the only thing that i do differently is I use a large pair of channel locks, so I can get a better feel for the amount of resistance. Excessive resistance could indicate that the caliper is beginning to seize and should be replaced.
nice video, but there were a few things that you should have done differently. WD40 should not be used when reassembling a braking system. use anti seize for between the wheel hub and the rotor. you can also use a bit of anti seize on the anchor (the bracket that holds the pads) if WD40 gets on to the brake pads/shoes it will reduce their braking efficiency, increase braking distances and reduce the life of the pads.
oh yeah,, not much info on the internet on rogues for repairs. i have a dodge caravan and found over the last 4 yrs allot to help me with repairs. where do you go for info?
TIRES PLUS just replaced my 2013 Nissan Rogue front rotors and brake pads with their most "premium" quality brands allegedly. yet when parked outside for several hours my car always squeaks at the first stop, then for the rest of the ride it doesn't squeak at all. I have taken it back to them twice already and they can't find an issue - they blame it on the humidity or moisture and the fact that the rotors and brake pads are some type of custom cut and something has to wear off before the squeaking stops. any reason you think this is happening?
If you were a real mechanic, You would replace or rebuild the caliper, They collect rust inside so when you push it back in it damages the rubber o ring inside the caliper, and it could cause a leak, You would have to bleed the calipers when your done, Replacing the brake fluid also, It's a little more work but it's the right way to do the job, The use of a flex ratchet and socket wrench would cut down on the time it takes to do the job.Just saying.
Thanks, I found this quite useful. BTW, the book torques are 62 ft-lbs for the 17mm screws and 32 ft-lb for the 14mm screws. I found it easier to slide (well, pry) the bracket off the rotor with the pads on there, and remove them after it's off. No danger of marring the rotors if they're going to be re-used.
Use hi temp disc brake grease , Do NOT spray any oil like WD-40 on the caliper bracket, especially on the rotor.
Petroleum based lubricants like WD40...oh nevermind. 75 people before me already said that. Great video man. Had a Toyota for 15 years using W40 all over and never had a problem.
Great video, wish everybody had the video quality and personality of this guy!
Definitely a weekend mechanic, glad your not doing my brakes.
Wd 40 is not a Lubricant, its for Repelling water/moisture on metallic/metal surfaces etc.
I watched in horror as it dripped onto the rotor.
They make special grease for the brake pad calipers/pads.
Also as mentioned, you should open the cap on the master brake cylinder, this will allow easy flow back of the fluid and not cause the pistons to score also prevents the brake piston from moving back out and then having to compress again.
Great video!! I'm thinking about doing the brakes on my 08 Rogue and this gives me the confidence to do it. Very good camera work and audio.
Use slider lube for the caliper bolt/pins. Petroleum based lubricants such as WD40 and anti seize will eat away at the rubber boot the the bolts go through and will allow moisture in, causing the caliper bolts to seize up. and you can touch the rotor, just not with dirty greasy hands as the grease from your hands might contaminate the pads.
Everyone please lube the slide pins as this guy didnt. If you dont the slides wont move and the pads will wear unevenly. Change the hardware also on the caliper bracket.
appreciate a common guy (non mechanic) teaching other common guys how to do it and showing the mistakes you learned from it. i was thinking about buying a rogue couple yrs old. your thoughts? anything else you did yourself?
Very nice job on this video. Very helpful and informative.
8:08, love the curious chicken!! LOL
Also, you tend to mumble a bit sometimes, and those are the really good parts that make this video relatable. Good job on editing, makes it easier to watch. Just make sure you lock the auto exposure on the camera so that it doesn't change when your white sleeves get in the shot.
as for the caliper piston, i didn't see anything wrong with the way that you retracted it. you used an old brake pad to evenly distribute the force from your clamp. the only thing that i do differently is I use a large pair of channel locks, so I can get a better feel for the amount of resistance. Excessive resistance could indicate that the caliper is beginning to seize and should be replaced.
well done! loved the editing. My god you love WD-40
nice video, but there were a few things that you should have done differently.
WD40 should not be used when reassembling a braking system. use anti seize for between the wheel hub and the rotor. you can also use a bit of anti seize on the anchor (the bracket that holds the pads) if WD40 gets on to the brake pads/shoes it will reduce their braking efficiency, increase braking distances and reduce the life of the pads.
Thanks for the video. does this model have the CVT transmission? would enjoy to watch a detailed cvt fluid change when you get the time. thanks
mrexecutive1 - all the rogue models come with CVT ‘s
oh yeah,, not much info on the internet on rogues for repairs. i have a dodge caravan and found over the last 4 yrs allot to help me with repairs. where do you go for info?
very informative! thank you
TIRES PLUS just replaced my 2013 Nissan Rogue front rotors and brake pads with their most "premium" quality brands allegedly. yet when parked outside for several hours my car always squeaks at the first stop, then for the rest of the ride it doesn't squeak at all. I have taken it back to them twice already and they can't find an issue - they blame it on the humidity or moisture and the fact that the rotors and brake pads are some type of custom cut and something has to wear off before the squeaking stops. any reason you think this is happening?
He has no special brakes grease, that's for the next future time
Thank you!
the chicken made the vid more awesome ha ha
No.1 failure, not opening the bleeder valve when pressing the caliper bore, this send dirty fluid up into the proporting valve.
If you were a real mechanic, You would replace or rebuild the caliper, They collect rust inside so when you push it back in it damages the rubber o ring inside the caliper, and it could cause a leak, You would have to bleed the calipers when your done, Replacing the brake fluid also, It's a little more work but it's the right way to do the job, The use of a flex ratchet and socket wrench would cut down on the time it takes to do the job.Just saying.