3D Printer Adjustments: Perfect X Gantry and Bed Leveling Using Dial Gauge Indicators (Ender 3v2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hello. In this video I show you the tool that I have developed to help me get very accurate X gantry leveling, as well as bed leveling for my ender 3v2 print farm. This is very fast and easy way to make adjustments when needed. Managing a fleet of printers for a single person can be hard, but I developed this tool that helps me speed up the process. I hope you enjoy
Link to the dial gauge I used in this video for the X gantry tool:
amzn.to/3r9OgPy
******IF you receive a 404 error when trying to download, select the "Thing Files" Tab and download the file indivudually. That should work as I think Thingiverse is having issues.
Thingiverse link to the x gantry tool. I can confirm that this works with the Ender 3v2 WITHOUT a z end stop switch and bracket.
Please note some ender 3 models other than the v2 with larger screens may not work due to fitment issues with spacing between the bed and the display.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:513...
www.thingiverse.com/download:...
Hot end dial gauge mount
www.thingiverse.com/thing:454... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Went to download the gantry model from Thingiverse and got a 404 error. Hopefully you can upload it again. I used the process from your earlier video (single plunge gage on hot end) and that worked very well. I am curious to see what this dual gage method will do for my printing. I much prefer to learn from other's experiences as I am too busy making my own mistakes! Thanks for taking the time to make your videos.
Try downloading individually from the "Things" Tap instead of using the "Download All" buttom. Thingiverse must be having an issue.
www.thingiverse.com/download:11012137
Download the files one at a time.
Thingiverse is dying lol
Single plunge gage?? Can you please share the video link for that guide i couldnt find it..
@@collect3d
Hi! Replying here so you get tagged. I don’t use bl or cr touch on my printers. How would I go forward with levelling the bed with a dial indicator then? I’m pretty good at levelling using the paper method, but I want to try this method as well to get it as ‘’perfect’’ as possible.
Do I just level the bed like you do, auto home and set the nozzle height using a feeler gauge or paper?
I don’t want to risk the nozzle digging into my bed. That’s why I am a bit confused on how you would do this without an auto leveller.
Hope my question made sense and that you see this :)
ahh the kind of precision that can only be achieved by smacking your machine like its a tv from the 1980's.
This is a life saver. I’ve been searching for a gantry level device I use the dial gauge to get the level but I’ve always thought about what if it’s the gantry.
I’ll be printing these up tomorrow. I have print farm of 5 cr10’s and I print 24/7 I think I might have to do a few modifications but the idea has been planted. Thank you and I wish you luck in your endeavors.
Another great video! I've been struggling with my ender 3 v2s but the way you explain everything helps me out alot. Keep up the good work!
Man, I really love the way you work.
I have been leveling with a dial indicator for a few months now and it is WAY better and more accurate than the paper or feeler gauge method. I use GCode to move the head.. but turning off the steppers and pushing the head around is WAY faster easier and better.. Brilliant!
Bro the way you level your bed is insane!!! I need this
What if anything would installing a secondary X axis screw to the Ender v2? Saw they have kits available. I was thinking it would perhaps stop the x gantry from being knocked out of alignment.
Really nice video man, got my printer 2 weeks ago and have spent hours trying to learn to level the bed and use different settings and stuff, got some succes and lots of failure that i try to learn from. Did notice today that my x gantry seemed of from the planet of my bed and the bed had at times had way different preassure on the springs and now i did put 2 and 2 together. Stambord on your video trying to find out how to fix the gantry and found both that and a sweet way to level the bed, Will order those and make this part of my normal routine aswell once i get the printer running correctly.
Great work.
Great Video! Do you have a Hot end dial gauge mount for the Ender 3 S1. I would like to use something like this to level my bed, and not take so long. Thanks,
I legit bought this and searched for gantry dial indicator and this popped up. Glad we have the same one. Was worried cuz it doesn't come with anything. So thanks for the holder.
Dude you are a wizard! Thank you for this video!
Better to level the bed with the z stepper enabled. With the steppers disabled nothing is stopping the z from moving a little, specially while you slide the x axis and run the probe along the bed.
This has been incredibly useful, thank you for putting this content out there for folks having issues. Out of curiosity, I noticed you don't use springs for your hotbed, what do you use?
I use silicone bed mounts, ive found they are a lot more stable in keeping the bed level for longer periods of time. Thanks for commenting!
seeing how much of a difference you're making by tapping the gantry made me remember the dozen times or so that I have slightly bumped my gantry just incidentally and realize that all of those times I was potentially causing issues with leveling. I wonder how many fails were due to me thinking this would not make much of a difference.
Great video, do you have the design for the extruder mount or the dial guage please.
Also how did you print the mounts, which orientation did you use, how did you use supports?
Hello yes you can download the files here
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5139867/comments
Just print them laying down, you'll have to use supports but they should be easy to remove with a scraper tool that comes with most 3d printers
Many thanks great content keep up the very informative videos 📹 👍 👏 👌
Cool content!! Keep being awesome and show us what you find out :)
Thank you I appreciate it!
Great vid, thanks!
Very good approach but how do you know the indicator holders are both the same length. It might be worthwhile to zero them both to a single master height before use.
I was wondering the same thing. I guess for this level of precision it's good enough. Would definitely be a good idea to swap the dial from the other side and see if they read the same at zero.
Can you use a Dial Test Indicator to level and adjust the 3D printer rather than using plunger type indicator?
this is why i added a 2nd z rod & motor.
Great points
Nice tips. Thanks
What about just printing 2 pieces that fit in the V slots at the same height?
My left side is way too tight, I have tried adjusting the nuts and it will not loosen, do you know of anything I can do? I returned one thinking it was broken and I’m on my second one with the same issue, it has no issue traveling down, but coming back up I can lift the machine if I tried. Please help🙏
Alguém teria o suporte do relogio para a impressora ender 3 S1 pro e poderia compartilhar o arquivo?
I have a question about how you move your z-axis by turning the knop back and forth. How do you do that? If i want to move the z-axis, i must put in a lenght into the display and push the knob. Then it will move? Is it something in the settings?
When stepper motors are disabled you can move the z motor by hand
Thanks ... Can you please make a video how you ensure skew correction in all axes... anxiously waiting...
Hi, how do you know the two X Gantry Dial Gauge Indicator Mount have perfectly same length? If not, the result may be not accurate?
I measured them with my calipers. They were exact same height.
Very nice
At what point do we need to do the manual adjustment with paper. Once leveling with paper and then after using the calipers would the paper setting be for not? Its a little confusing for me as I am very new to 3D printing. I bet with having all of those printers your electric bill is a shocker.
I like the premise, but the method is not sound. You should use the frame as the contact points for the indicators. And the gantry as the base. So that when you zero out the dials your measuring up from the base. Because you don't know where the tips of the dials are in relation to each other in this orientation. I hope you find this info helpful. Keep up the hard work.
I was thinking the same, and I don't know much about indicators, but to me they are only good at measuring relative displacement (when there 0 has been set with a contact to the surface). Not sure those two have the exact same gauge length at 0.
I thought of one way to improve this method (but again I'm not an expert in Metrology). Perhaps you could swap the 2 indicators after the 1st levelling has been done, and then compensate half of the remaining offset. So if the right side is too high of 0.4mm, then it should be pushed down 0.2mm. Thoughts?
@@JulienStoeffler I would say that would work. You could also just use one indicator from the base in the orientation in the video and swap it side to side. Although after watching the video again, his gantry is way too loose to stay leveled for more then a few z cycles.
It's honestly probably not enough to matter
Do we need fusion360 to be able to print your gantry dial housings?
Ive included the STL as well in the thingiverse link so fusion 360 isnt necessary. Ive included the fusion 360 file in case someone wanted to make modifications.
Great idea leveling start from the top work your way down. I like your technique dial calipers would be a good investment
How do I get a STL file of your cradle that holds the gauge?
In the description of the video
By tapping the gantry like that, doest it go back out of alignment when the machine vibrates from people walking on wooden floors, or during larger range of movements the screw does up and down or if the print head lifts from hitting the prints for what ever reason?
I would think you would want it adjusted where tapping it lightly would not alter its level.
of course it does this video looks nonsense. if the machine can be tapped into a zone as soon as he moves something its going out of wack. Cant believe machines were this bad just 2 years ago im a bit blown away. Unless hes just got one that can move at the slightest touch and has no self guiding rails/sync belts.
Your doing it wrong. That way will give a different reading every time beacause all you are doing is flexing the gantry. The rollers are there to secure the gantry to the uprights and allow travel, not to adjust the gantry level. You need to loosen the hardware securing one or both sides to allow actual repositioning. Since you are doing that, just print two blocks and rest the gantry on them and secure. No complicated dials or tapping tha gantry required.
Yeah his setup is asking for error
You just saved me a ton of time. I hope you’re having a great day, wherever you are.
Great video and great idea. It will help me a whole lot as well. FYI, the file for the X gantry on thingaverse does not work can you fix it, I would love to try this and see how well it works for me. Thanks
I think its an issue with thingiverse.com. you can select Thing Files on the page and Individually download each file that should work.
I do the same thing, except with two blocks of MDF cut to exactly the same length. Just lower the gantry on to the blocks and you're set. Works just as well and doesn't cost anywhere near as much. But I do like the uber-techy solution here.
That for sure is a very cost effective way! For me I like to have a difference no more than the thickness of my layers. If you add the slight uneveness of the bed that comes from the factory, plus a slightly unlevel gantry. That can add up to a few thicknesses of first layers. The BL Touch will only compensate for so much, so I try to be exact as possible. The bottoms of my prints look shiney and have a uniform finish which I really like for my products. The dial gauges also help to see if your v roller is acting as a brake for being too tight! Thanks for commenting!
@@collect3d if the bed is out too much manually marlin will now halt the printer with a critical error...
It is sellers that are marketing BLTouch as an auto levelling device that should change, it is not an autolevelling device it is a surface compensation device whos purpose is to adjust the z offset for an uneaven, out of flat, surface, it does nothing at all for levelling, and if you rely on it for such with a badly levelled bed it will simply distort the geometry of your print..
I am interested though in how you assure that both dial guages are accurate to each other.. there will likely be small differences between them, and probably larger differences between the 2 printed brackets, how do you therefore know that at zero both of them are actually at the exact same height?
@@LouisePaisleyUK I did measure both printed brackets with my calipers and they are the same size. I made sure of that. As far as the accuracy of the dial gauge I just have to trust the manufacturer has not lied to me about its accuracy lol.
You probably do not.. that would work for a dual z drive by causing the steppers to skip steps when they crash into it and therefore align the steppers which then maintain level until they are turned off at the very least, but with one end free i its likely to move out of alignment again when you move the gantry, maybe only a tiny bit, on some enders it could be a FAIR bit as gantry sag/ lag on them can be huge.
adjusting of the wheels, and more often than not losening the wheel plates from the gantry to allow things to align/ settle and then carefully tightening up again while checking the level as you do would be needed..
@@LouisePaisleyUK those steps would definitely help for perfect leveling. The indicators mainly help to be a visual aid for your adjustments which is what I wanted to demonstrate.
Thanks for the idea and the video. But it still lacks precision. I bought 3 dial gauges and printed the mount/cases of them and applied the same process as yours. There are a few problems you do: 1-) Putting the X-axis gauge onto the hotend cover is not constant because it is not tightly mounted, and this causes changes from corner to corner. 2-) Putting the X-axis gauge on and in front of the hotend lowers the precision at the back of the bed, because it cannot access to the very end of it. This causes a different between the front and the rear end prints. A bed-wide print becomes not consistent between front and rear edges. So you should not use on-hotend cover model. You should use on X-axis-bar model for X-axis calibration. There are such models.
Thats a nice technique my only issue its only temporary fix as all you are doing is tappin the gantry up or down you need to tighten the main screw which is behind the z axis stepper. Just take the gantry top off (4 bolts) and tighten right up the hex bolt you access through a hole in the gantry itself making sure the gantry is pulled up hard when you tighten it up. Thats a more permanent fix
Defo getting one of these to help level the bed off the extruder. But with only a single Z lead screw that gantry is always going to be slightly off.
Thas why i use a mesh leveling with bltouch
Really informative just out of interest what is your method to level first time with a bl touch ? I have had the ender 3 V2 now for 2,weeks with not one successful print. I have 6 other printers and have set them all up easily with inductive sensors bl touch cr touch etc and am not new to the technology . I am genuinely stuck with this machine as is the seller. Have approached Creality but got know where at all :-(. If you have any advice I would be massively grateful 😊
Hey Paul, I plan to make a video on this soon. But I do live z adjustments. I hope to have this released in the next day or so.
@@collect3d brilliant I will look forward to it I won’t throw the machine out of the window yet lol just looking at the dial thingy now have subscribed for notifications as well… thanks for replying
Have now returned the machine to its original spec and removed all of my upgrades etc. today in the firmware I created a manual mesh with 9 probing points and the ****** thing still wouldn’t work. Tried manual levelling 4 times concurrently and it levelled it great … 1st couple of layers then decided enough was enough ! This whole Creality episode has been a nightmare and it’s a total waste off time and effort.
How do you find the initial spot where the bed is at ideal height? Do you use a gauge?
I like to completely loosen the leveling knobs and then just tighten them slightly, from there i use my dial gauge to tram the bed. I've found that over tightening the bed can cause it to flex, and throw off your readings.
@@collect3d which gage thickness do you use?
Okay. I have been on this x gantry adventure for weeks. I can't keep one side to stay where it's at. It's either a tad high or so. Any other tips to fix that?
I'm gonna to look at doing a dual z rods on the printer. Without it. It's always going to be a struggle
@@collect3d I found my stupid issue.... it was the coupler....... lol
Love the videos! Can you sell me one of those complete dial gauges that fits both v2 and e3pro?
I ended up printing and buying those same gauges. I found a file that works with the ender 3 pro as well. Really handy for dialing in the X axis height. Was having issues on layer 2 and so on.
The dial indicator approach is a real eye opener on how flimsy this design is. I mounted the indicator directly to the x axis extrusion using a t nut. it gives me the peace of mind that the connection is rigid and there is no flex because of printed parts.
Yes definitely rigid mounting is the way to go. You did an excellent job on your demonstration!
The way I ended up going to solve this issue was to add a second end stop in the other z axis and hooked it up to the control board (SKR 1.4 + TMC drivers using senseless homing for x and Y, so just rerouted one of the unused end stops). So the levelling of the right and left side are independent now. For someone that is not using a stock board out there, this may be an alternative solution (needs some firmware modifications).
I feel like spending $70 on a new board would be better than spending $60 on dial indiciators.
@@cody5495 agreed, and you get the noise reduction included in the packet. Other addition would be the auto leveling for larger beds as well…
I should mention that I only have 2 printers. For my needs, this method is rather expensive. I'd opt for the method used by one of your commentators. Not only is Jamie Carl's method more affordable, but I can see no reason why it shouldn't work. I think most of us understand the importance of having a squared printer frame, and I can't overly stress the importance of having the bed and X-axis gantry perfectly parallel with each other once the frame is squared. Each of these factors must be taken into consideration. These factors combined can "make" or "break" your bed-levelling attempts by making it easier or near impossible to accomplish.
What makes it difficult to square off the frame on an assembled printer? There's not much room around the bed for conventional tools to help make accurate measurements and adjustments. Sure, I can use a mechanic's square to check the squareness of the upper frame with the frame side extrusions, but how do I do this at the lower extremities of the side extrusions without getting in under the bed with the square. There's not enough room! To check for squareness in the Y-axis, I suppose I could temporarily remove the Z-axis stepper motor, and disconnect the Z-axis limit switch to get the cable out of the way. While this approach would allow me to confirm the side extrusion's perpendicularity with the base frame in both axes it just seems like a lot of work.
Now for the bed and X-axis gantry. If the X-axis gantry and bed are not parallel, good luck with your printing activities. I would like to add that I thought a secondary lead screw on the opposite side of the printer would help to counteract the sagging of the gantry on the right side, and help maintain the gantry perpendicular to the frame side extrusions. In theory, this should also make it easier to level the bed. Right? But how do you ensure that each screw raises or lowers the gantry by an equal distance. There's also play between the lead screws and brass nuts to contend with. So, I loosened the set (grub) screw securing the lead screw on the left side of the printer. After installing the second lead screw and stepper motor to the right side of the printer, I left the set (grub) screw securing the second lead screw loose. Then I raised the X-axis gantry as high as it would go by spinning both couplers by hand. Though the lead screws were left loosened in the coupler, these raised the gantry up without difficulty. When I was ready, I used the printer's Move Z command to lower the gantry. I'm assuming that the pitch of both screws is equal. The screws should eventually get in sync with one another when lowering the gantry as both will reach that point where the lead screw threads come into contact with the inner threads of their respective brass nuts. I'm counting on the weight of the lead screws and gravity to help me to accomplish the syncing action of the screws and nuts. Lowering the gantry should force the loosened lead screws to reach that point where both lead screws and nuts are in sync with one another. Then, once the gantry was as low as I needed it to go, I tightened the set (grub) screws to secure the lead screws to the couplers and stepper motors. If I get this right, I can not lower one side or the other of the gantry without really forcing down on it. This is perfect. Raising and lowering the gantry several times, and listening for any undesirable sounds proved that the operation was a success. I couldn't get that gantry any more square if I tried.
In theory, and excluding normal part wear, this need only be done once. No further adjustments should be necessary - ever! In practice, however, the brass nut's inner threading will wear quicker than the stainless steel lead screw's threading, and this will cause the gantry to sag to one side again. This usually occurs on the right side of most Z-axis single lead screw systems. I figure it will take about 7-8 months of 24/7 printing before the brass nut threading wears out enough to make any significant difference, however, adding a little lithium grease to the lead screws and nuts should slow down part wear. I based this time estimate on my printer's performance, and after assessing that the brass nut may have become a problem. What do you think?
The extra precision helps because I print with a .2mm initial layer. I don't over extrude just to get better bed adhesion with the first layer. The extra precision is definitely worth it for my production, the print surfaces are smooth like glass and the lines are uniform. It really helps with the cosmetics of the surface that is on the print bed. It is over the top if the precision is not important. Thanks for commenting!
In terms of the levelling, shouldn't you use center as the reference? The problem is that, if there's a center warping, the corners will be potentially higher/lower.
If you use the center as a 0 point, you won't be able to zero out the corners. It's better to get the corners level and let the bl touch compensate for the center.
I like what your showing. I do a poor mans version of this exact method but just using some cheap vernys :)
now adjust the steppers too in firmware by measering motor movement. for the z-gantry, dual z-rod and a belt on top to connect them is required to keep the adjustments. else bed screws and z-gantry movement will ruin bed leveling.
Nice work, but I think it will be better if you put double z-axes update with a synchronization belt on the top.
yep nice one! did the same only by one multimeter)
I'm fairly sure the issue is the right side not tightly gripping the rails, yes tapping it around will level it, for a moment, but as soon as the motor moves the gantry or the printer creates any vibration, it's just going to be completely off again. I'm not certain this method fixes it so much as it just temporarily passes a level check, if it's loose enough that finger taps can move it, something isn't tight enough to withstand printing movements either.
shh, it keeps the obsessives at peace
This is why I roll dual-Z on all of mine, never lose level due to wear and tear. Are you in the FB Ender 3-V2 group?
also when you were doing the bed adjustments you didn't disable steppers, you can back drive current into the board causing failure. I'm sure you know this and just got sidetracked by making the video, but had to point it out.
I am in the creality group. The big one with 60kish members
Invalid adjustment. Once the gantry moves the measurements will immediately change. You have to adjust the screws attach the gantry to the support on the left.
The issue I see with a single lead screw is that motor side is always pulling the other. I cant imagine the unsupported side would remain level for long. It would be interesting to see the results if you level the gantry, print something big enough, pull off the print and then take new measurements by bringing the gantry down.
The single lead screw design for sure is a drawback of the Ender 3. Whats going to keep your gantry level longer is how much pressure the V roller is making against the frame. It can act as a brake and start to pull the gantry slightly out of being level if it is too tight. I check my printers every week and have to make a few minor adjustments here and there to keep everything in line. Its more for preventive maintenance. Thanks for commenting!
@@collect3d Try an ender 3 max... Mine is one of the top quality creality creations they are shipping out with the vertical frames being 2.2mm out of parallel!!!
I spent the first 8 weeks of my 3d printing career trying to figure out why the hell it just would not keep level..
I did a tall print and it screwed up completely at about 300mm up, and the inner wheel was locked solid with the outer wheels not connecting to the frame.. I moved the gantry down and then the inner wheel was not connecting with the frame and the outer wheels were so tight you could not move them..
Turned out there is actually a printable shim on thingiverse because its so common!!!
By the time I had found this out I had already fitted a dual z drive mod, it was the dual z motor skipping that alerted me to the issue, had I checked the frame for parallel I would probably have managed to get it working by shimming and adjusting the wheels and the wheel plates..
Its a poor design single z drive, even before I started printing I was of that opinion, and its still my opinion now.
I have just ordered a second printer, I went with a Vyper because I have the large format ender 3 max which now prints sweet, it has dual z by default, but mostly because I would not trust Creality to put my trash out after the 3 max fiasco!!!
@@collect3d That's a neat mount, will have to give it a try. I am interested in quantifying this "lag" of the non-driven end as it is quite significant and now I see it everywhere. What I have been doing is zeroing the dial gauge at a midpoint and using move axis to approach from both directions from at least 3mm away. 0.04mm error is about my best measurement so far.
I just thought of something on the side without the lead screw I would install a lead screw just to run on a belt having dual Z-axis. Then we can disconnect the belt and just turn that lead screw. this way it would ensure the X- gantry has a fixed level then put the belt back on. Once the hot end goes back to the other side it will cause a sag on the side cancelling out any adjustments you had made without the additional lead screw. Damn I hope I made some sense over here
Makes perfect sense I actually did the dual lead screw and belt sync mod. Works great! I plan to do the z belt mod next
Yea man, When you were trying to nudge the gantry that was the first thing I thought about.. Then I started thinking about installing leadscrew backlash ensuring even greater stability. Great video thinking outside the box Thx for sharing @@collect3d
Why wouldn't you zero the digital dial in the center of the bed rather than starting in a corner?
Because that back corner has a shorter silicone spacer, and less travel. So I always set my desired tension on that corner first, then level the rest. The back corner has less travel because of the wire strain relief
Hi.. I'm new in 3D Print, after frustation about bed leveling I found your channel I saw your way to leveling. I allready order the gauge, then I realize my printer is Ender 3 S1. Maybe for the Gantry is same with Ender 3 S1, but for the hotend is not same.
Hey there sorry I don't know if the gauge holders will work with the s1
I can't for the life of me get my Ender 3 to print perfectly square for something like a 3" cube. I suspect a small machining error where the frame attaches to the base. Came across a Cura post processing script to compensate in the g-code which I plan to try. Just thought I'd throw it out there as an idea for a future video.
Hey, mine on my ender 3 v2 was slightly off too when tighten naturally. Wheels were getting more and more tight when going from top to bottom. Making the two vertical bars exactly parallel by matching top and bottom distances between the two bars solve the issue for me. Now all my rollers are pushing the same amount of pressure on the rails when the gantry is going up or down.
@@Carlos-kk4nw Mine were parallel, but just not perfectly square in all directions. I've since found M852 - Bed Skew Compensation in the Marlin firmware. Seems a better place to correct it for each printer.
Glad my machines got dual Z this would be a maintenance nightmare. One printer is fine though lol
If they hadn't be cheap and went with a dual Z, we wouldn't have these problems :)
And how do we gauge how accurate the dial gauge is? Hehe
loosening that roller on the X gantry does nothing to make it adjustable for me. it is not moving up or down like you are able to do.
For the algorithm!
Please don't take this the wrong way, you're probably a very decent chap but this premise of how to align your x to your z isn't on point. For one, you'd have to ensure your two dial indicators and holders from point to point are precisely the same length at zero - and then the flat surfaces of both 4040 extrusions are level and parallel with each other( and square to your z), but this is academic for the repeatability of your adjustments is what's raised an eyebrow.
If the v-rollers on both z carriages are adjusted evenly (and independently) with a light preload (and in order to do this, at least one has to be separated from x axis). Your X, attached to the carriage on the leadscrew side can then be checked with an engineers square and be adjusted for 90 degrees whilst supporting the weight of an (unsupported) x-axis rail. When you can achieve that you reattach the other carriage again. Obviously a wise person would attach the trailing carriage from the bottom of printer, loosen the top of the frame and raise the gantry all the way to the top before retightening. Hopefully what I'm saying makes sense?
Disconnect trailing carriage from x (the one on the right). Disconnect lead screw.
Adjust rollers on carriages independently,
Check x with square and adjust to 90 degrees with x-axis weight unsupported,
Reconnect second carriage to x.
I just use 2 piece of same length wood and tighten the screws
I just find calibrating the ender 3v2 to be SO frustrating. Every time I team the bed, I get different numbers. Argh.
But thats not how you do it. You need a granite plate and measure with one dial indicator
IF YOU PRESS "DOWNLOAD ALL" YOU WILL GET A 404 ERROR. DOWNLOAD THE FILES INDIVIDUALLY
Thats why i just use 2 Z axe printer. For me that have made some mechanics during study life, i dont understand how you can have synchronize axe with only one z guide. More the extruder go to the right on the x axe, more you have weight on x axe and change to have problems.
The major problem in 3d printing word, is that a major part of people print shit on 3d printer (little cat for grammy, a vase for mom, etc ....).
Dual z I feel is definitely a must!
@@collect3d As you said, but a strong structure and 256 microstep motors also Have nice christmas day
Certainly an issue with single lead screw machines. I'd rather spend $40 to add another z screw.
OK, but what, exactly, is it that you think you're "adjusting" by tapping on the gantry like that? At first it seems like you're using the eccentric nut on the v roller to settle your "adjustment", but then go on to do it again with the eccentric nut engaged. What is the underlying solution that you are proposing this does? There are many reasons why the X gantry may not be perfectly square with the frame, and for most people it is likely going to be due to variation in the build process, making it a much better starting point to verify that your extrusions are properly squared with the frame first. Your entire 11 minute video can be summarized with, "just tap on the end of the gantry that's higher until it looks like it's level". You start out well with the dial gauge and the clever printed mount for them, and then just go way off into lala land once you see the results.
The point of adjusting the v rollers is to get to a point where the gantry is not dragging. If your roller is too tight the gantry can drag behind the movements causing the gantry to become unleveled. If you have experience building the ender 3, you would know the two nuts that hold the gantry to the bracket has to be tight to keep the x axis level, but if you activate the z stepper and pushed down on the gantry from the floating side, you can might subtle adjustments that are a pain in the ass to do if you have to remove the whole assembly and remove the screws. If this method doesn't work for you thats fine. It works great for me and I'm sure the hundred of others that have liked this video. Thanks for the feedback.
If the V-slot wheels are effecting your measurements, they are effecting the print. I hate V-slot wheel motion systems.
It is the ender 3s biggest flaw!
I’m a hobby machinist and I want to say that your X gantry leveling test is flawed. UNLESS you verify that the indicators are exactly the same height (within your tolerance of hundredths of a mm). Better to use the same indicator and fixture and move it from the left side to the right side. OR before your test you can put one indicator on the the right side and lower the gantry down to a random value (say 5.00mm) and while keeping the gantry perfectly in place, swap to the other indicator and it should read the same. If it doesn’t read the same you at least know the error difference and write that number in sharpie on the indicator fixture so you can deduct that variance from your measurements.
That being said, in practice it will make no difference if the gantry is level to the frame so long as the bed is level to the gantry. Within reason of course. You don’t want unnecessary stress on x gantry nor stress on the leveling screws of the bed.
I like your work though, you are one of the most thorough and evidence based printer I’ve seen when it comes to tuning your machines.
I've printed your dial indicator model and guess what... It will NOT work on a stock Ender 3 printer. The Z axis end stop switch and bracket do not allow the model to fit on the left side and the screen cover I'm using doesn't allow your model to fit on the right side... For me, your model is a waste of time.
Sorry to hear that Ben. I will be sure to add a note in the file and description.
@@collect3d happy Thanksgiving... I'll be looking forward to more useful content.
@@collect3d if you have a Facebook account, I'll send you the new STL files I've made
for the love of god stop slapping/whacking your dial indicators...... surefire way to throw the calibration of the indicator out stupid fast.
Holy crap that gantry is a shit design. Would be better to just fix it instead of trying to level it by tapping it. As soon as it moves even a little, it's fucked again