Same here, I've spent quite a lot of time manually levelling the bed, even with BLTouch, there are always couple rebel circles when I run bed leveling print.. frustrating
Take a look to the excentric nuts on the botom of the bed, if yuo adjust , yuo change a little the geometry of the bed, resulting in a warpped or semi warped bed
What i do is use 2 pice of paper (not one), because i use 0.2 mm layer high, the point is use something similar to yuor layer high, for example, if yuo use 0.1 mm layer high, use just 1 paper(0.1mm paper)
@@alexkurebis3907 i use a tipical pice of paper for printer, they mesere 0.1 mm aprox (yuo can check with a caliper), but for 0.2 layer high,i use 2 papers togerher, so the nozzle can touch them..when yuo fell some resistance, thats ok, the go to the other corner, always move a little cause when yuo change one corner, afect the others, so i do this a cople of time until they are more less the same(yuo can check the center too,and see how warped/flat is, an remenber, the eccentric can chage the geometry of the bed, good luck)
Something to keep in mind to make things go a little faster. Try to position the nozzle directly above the screw that you're turning. This will eliminate any of the extra rise or fall you get from being off from the pivot point. If you manage to be directly above the screw/pivot point, you will also eliminate the effects the screw adjustment will have on the other three corners.
I started this and on my first pass around discovered the right rear corner was almost 5mm higher than any other corner. After a lot of troubleshooting I discovered the x-axis support was not square with the bed or z-axis supports. turns out one of the rollers was bent. once I fixed that looks like the bed leveling was working
dude i love you, thank you. this shits easy with practice but beginners like me need these dumbed down "5 minute" versions. you make everything much more understandable for someone who has no knowledge and bought a 3d printer for fun :)
at the end you talk about baby stepping to get that perfect first layer, but i wish you described what to look for and how to tell if you need to go up or down as it's starting. it's cool to know we CAN do minute adjustments, but we need to know what to look for to make a decision.
Imagine a cross section where the filament in a line is a slightly squished oval. That's what you are aiming for. If you look at the underside of your parts as you print more and more objects, you can keep dialling it in to get a nicer lower surface finish
Absolutely fantastic bed leveling tutorial!! It's perfect for beginners like me. You don't talk down to us but you don't talk over our heads either. Thanks for taking the time to make this for all of us noobs!!
Hi, I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this as I got a ender 3 v2 this Christmas but after I assembled it the bed wouldn’t level as the top of the printer would touch the bedding hand when I pull the bedding it would scrape. I think I found the problem as this video has helped so I thing the problem was that the x axis went down to low and as you showed that we could move up the stopper this is probably going to make the printer able to move around the bed comfortably, thank you for making this.
@@TheEdgeofTech sorry to bother but I have a bit of a problem. When I start a print it always messed up by the print not staying on the bed when the printer moves. It’s starts the print and then when it moves the print moves with it and it’s not sticking to the mat properly, if you have any idea what’s causing this please tell me as I’m trying to print some stuff for my brothers birthday which is in 2 days.
one thing I didn't understand, why would I touch the z offset settings? I know nothing about what the z offset setting does. How would I know if I have the correct setting for the Z offset?
I dont know why. I looked at many videos on leveling but i could not get it to work. Then I watched this video and I had it perfect after 30 min. Thank you!
UUUUUUUUUUHMMMMMMM you don´t have to loosen your Z-endstop. You leave the microswitch in the lowest position and screw the heating bed all the way down. Then you screw the heating bed back up until the distance between the nozzle and the printing bed fits perfectly with the piece of paper trick... AND THATS because during daily printing you never will check if the screws of the microswitch are still tighten. So what would happen if they are not and the switch isn´t in the lowest position? Right you destroy your printer....
Hi, I have a problem with the printer. I am new to 3d printing and when I start a print the plastic moves with the printer as it moves. I have levelled the bed properly and whenever I start a print it just doesn’t go straight on to the bed and curls up and moves around with the printer and I’m really stuck at the moment so any help would be great.
Another way of saying it is when it starts a print it does no go directly onto the bed when the nozzle is so close to it and it just lifts up. When I was printing the calibration cube it would just print and then when the nozzle moves it would go with it and not stay down when I’ve gone round the bed levelling a lot.
To me it seems like you don't have the nozzle close enough to the bed. Also make sure that your build surface is very clean. If it's glass you can use a little soap and water on it and wash it really good. Also, isopropyl alcohol works very well. Make sure you're using 60° c temperature on the bed as well.
@@TheEdgeofTech I made sure the bed was close to the nozzle and cleaned the glass bed and then printed out a benchy and it came out fantastic! Thank you man you’ve saved me!
I hadn't leveled my bed in a year (hadn't printed anything) and completely forgot how to do it, I got my bed leveled in less than 6 minutes (always was 10+ for me, as i want it perfect). Love the video!
What do you do if you can't get your nozzle close enough to touch the paper on the bed? I have my leveling screws as tight as they will go. I have no idea how to get the bed higher or the nozzle lower. my z stop is as low as it will go ad i still have a gap that is almost a quarter inch.
Hi what do I do if the bed is to high and the z is at the lowest point please help My fist printer is working well following your instructions, but I have the above issue with nr 2. I have Ender 3 vs 2 printers
Yes, exactly! But not tight enough where you can't push it back in with one hand. So you should be able to slide it both ways back and forth without the paper wrinkling. If the paper wrinkles it's too tight. But it will feel like a light scratching between the nozzle and the paper.
I’m a little confused, at 1:09 are you turning them all the way counter clock wise ? Wouldn’t that be extremely loose to the point where the knob falls off ?
If you disable steppers, your z-axis will be free to drop down. Its better to leave it enabled and move XY with menu. And always move your nozzle right above springs, so you dont need to relevel 5 times.
it isnt going to drop because the z-axis rod is threaded if you dont disable the steppers you are going to be putting wear on them and eventually burn them up
@@InZayne Thats not true. Do you think that z-axis stepper is disabled while you are printing? Its enabled whole time during print. And try to move the axis down with stepper disabled and you will be surprised how easy it is.
@@sviccc your z axis will not be able to drop down, because it is at lowest point possible due to the Z stop. Disabling makes bed levelling so much easier and faster, at least in my experience.
@@Mkayy9 i have bed leveled in one minute. When you drop your axis on endstop, you are actually beyond its switch point. And also putting stress on it...
@@sviccc autohome makes it touch the stopper. 1 minute with menu option? 😁 thats a lie, sorry. Or your bed has to be leveled at the beginning. If the bed is unlevelled you are risking to damage nozzel when setting it to move to other corner, because it would not stop when it starts touching the bed.
I read that disabling stepper motors can result in slight changes to the nozzle's z position when moving the head around the surface. That's why I use the move option and use the screen to move the nozzle.
This can happen, and a lot of firmware is now including the Leveling option to move the hotend to the specific points on the build plate for you! Thanks for watching!
This happened to me. Somehow when I disable the stepper, the z-axis motor turns a little bit and that really ruins my leveling. I use different method by the way. Once I do autohome the nozzle, I move z axis by 0.2 or 0.4, then instead of paper I use feeler gauge with the corresponding thickness between the bed and the nozzle.
My ender 3v2 right out of the box was an absolute beast. Easily my best prints to date. I then went and upgraded my springs, Bowden tube, couplers and added a BLTouch and I can't get the bed to level worth a damn. Ive tried different methods and firmwares and even if I get the first layer to go down OK, it ends up dying about halfway through. So unbelievably frustrating.
@@ImranKhan-lx3fi check your extruder for cracks. Mine ended up broke, which was the reason for my poor prints. I upgraded to a metal extruder and have had no problems since.
Having huge issues now with my ender 3 v2 Bed Leveling, I get all 4 corners perfect (with bed heated and also without makes no difference) Middle always too high and doesn't stick at all, using Z-offset at -0.07 I get perfect first layer but every layer after gets closer and closer to the print and I have to set the Z-Offset to +0.15 then its perfect what am I doing wrong or is there a way to set this in Prusaslicer so its automatic
@3:00 that's my AHA! moment! I kept trying to "auto home" and the directions said to make the extruder tip 0.8mm from the bed but mine kept hitting the z axis limit switch and stopping like 10mm away from the bed! I never thought to just manually screw it down using the z motor haha THANKS!!!! *HOWEVER!!! my z stop switch plate has a tab that keeps it from being mounted any lower, so I can't really "cheat" like this?? Should I remove the tab with a dremel?? Any help for this n0oB is highly appreciated!!! (And yes I have adjusted the bed up until it runs out of threads, still too far away!!!)
I need help I have a ender five pro and in my software I have no bed leveling feature I watched one of your videos download a new firmware and still there is no option to level the bed
I feel like ive been having this problem too, it auto homes to 2 different heights above the bed, I re-auto home a few times and it will then be where I correctly leveled to, I cannot figure out why this started happening. Checked the z limit for tightness, got new springs, level while warm, then I thought it was Gcode, but i double checked all that and found no issues. I usually have to end up adjusting the z axis in tune like this guy did, so I started printing with brims so I have a second to tune it before the real part of the print gets started. I got a BLtouch, but im not super excited to set it up yet, the zaxis tune helps me, but I know there is an issue going on that I cannot figure out. Annoying.
I followed the steps until 2:52 exactly but the paper doesn’t grab. There’s still a large gap. If I move the bed to the other side it grabs. Please help. I’ve been at this forever. I started over and repeated the steps so many times…
I think I've done something wrong in assembly perhaps as when I tighten the front all the way I still have about 3.5mm before the axis is all the way down as if my bed sits a bit too high.
Umm following this has made my printer unusable. First I dropped the z switch down all the way then tightened the knobs. When I hit auto hone the nozzle was like 3mm away. But on the back the nozzle scapes and is so low the bed hits ( I physically cannot tighten the knobs anymore) the y motor. It's now screwed and not sure how to make it better....
i need help my sensor by the motor on the bottom dose not do anything unless i touch it and when i print the bed goes on the motor and makes a noise then it turns off my printer
Is it normal for the rear left knob (the one closest to the heat connection to not have a spring in it? I noticed that there was only three springs on my bed when I assembled it. The rear left corner knob didn't have a spring on it.
You have a couple of options. One, you can adjust the level to the center and make it work with the rest but it'll be a little low for the rest of the bed. Two, you could put a piece of tin foil or blue tape underneath the bed where the dip is and see if that's any better. Basically try to raise the center a little bit at time until it's better.
when i do this, there is still 5mm between the head and table with zreed switch as low as it can go, i need to wind the springs almost to point of no load before it can be levelled. Any ideas?
Trying this method now. My issue is that the z-stop cannot go any lower. the nozzle is nowhere near the bed when the z-stop is at its lowest possible point. I'm guessing this is because I still currently have the OEM bed springs, not the upgraded ones that you recommended in another video. Those will be here tomorrow, so I guess I'll try again when they get here Update: With the yellow springs. this method was basically required as the yellow springs are slightly taller, the z stop needs to be offset up to match. Awesome, informative vids
I'm really new to 3d printing but my best tip is level right above the 4 screws first. (like in the video) The skirt print helps as well. If it's thin the bed is too high, if it isn't squished but round, the bed is too low
Hello, just bought a ender 3 v2 (kinda late now ,I know) but when I lower the bed all the way it hits the y axis motor at the back. This means I can't follow the steps in the video, do you have any ideas what may be wrong? Or is this normal, its my first ender hahaha. thanks for your other videos about the ender 3 v2 theyre great!
My problem is with the bed it self, the stop button for the bed dosnt hit so when i auto home the bed goes back and over the motor because there's nothing hitting the stop button for the bed..
I often come back to this video asnits very helpful. Never, ever has it taken me five minutes. I mean, it's still a great video, I may just be an idiot!
Hey guys, if you guys are having trouble leveling your bed check to see if it's wobbling. I was having issues with my leveling until I realized this issue. You can just look up "how to fix a wobbly printer bed on an ender 3" or something like that. Easy fix
I’ve been through the process with good success and great prints. I recently had a print fail, however, and when I tried to level the bed again, it doesn’t want to go level for me. Specifically, i get though the process, everything feels great, I auto home, and the nozzle hits the bed every time. What is the best way to trouble shoot this process?
Jim, I installed a EZABL sensor on my Ender 3 V2, and have been experiencing frequent need to 'babyset' the z offset. I know you've done a video on the installation of this same Auto leveling technology. I followed the setup as specified in documents and an youtube video, including calibrating the sensor. I was wondering how your experience has been with the EZABL Sensor. Are you finding that the z offset has to be adjusted frequently? Thanks DT
Good question! I normally don't need to mess with it to much after doing it the first time. Are you saving the config on the printer after you dial in the baby steps? By that I mean going to control and clicking the save option. That should save the config and you shouldn't have to mess with it unless you move the printer or are still using springs that can move. I like using the solid bed mounts as them don't move and that's a variable that I don't have to worry about.
@@TheEdgeofTech Yes, I still have my upgraded "yellow" springs on the bed as insurance policy for me so if my print head come crashing down on it I'll at least some some accident forgiveness.. perhaps this is why I am experiencing my issues with leveling. I believe EZABL includes a STL file that has the solid bed mounts. I'll get to those today and give it another try. Another thing, I noticed that you are using a Magnetic printing surface from TH3D, how do you like it? I still have my original Ender Glass on my setup and I am seriously thinking about making the switch. DT
I find the bed becoming a tiny bit loose or tight over a 48 hour period, so every couple of days ill check my z offset. My dad always tells me measure twice cut once.
OMG, thanks so much! I think my Z stepper thing on the side had come loose! I loosened one bolt and the whole thing fell off. I had been leveling and re-leveling but my prints were coming out in dots and splotches. Thank you for the easy step-by-step, very well done! :) Looks like it's working great again!
I don't think disabling the steppers to do the leveling is a good method. When moving the hot end with your hand you can accidentally move the Z up or down, I get a much better result from using the move feature in the menu and let the motors do the real accurate movements. I have a gcode for it but you can manually do it also, Just set these z axis points to get directly above the screws. 1st screw is 30x30y , 2nd screw is 30x200y, 2rd screw 200x200y, 4th screw 200y30x
I also have Gcode that does this, but I wanted to show a quick method that can be done with nothing but the basic machine. But I do think it's a good idea to use the Gcode or leveling feature if it's built it I the firmware. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech question for you regarding the method you used in this video. When you use the "tune" feature to adjust the Z stepper. Does the SD card save that new number? When I 1st got my printer I used your method to level minus using the tune to adjust the Z. Now a half a roll of filament later... when ever I use the paper to just lightly kiss the nozzle. When I go to print, I have to lower the bed during the 1st few passes as it is smearing the filament. I actually have to drop it quite a bit to get it low enough. All my prints stick fine but I get a flat and wide filament that first pass around. Some times I get no filament out at all its so close. I never had that at first and I'm doing nothing differently than I am now and actually going lighter on the paper tug than I did when I started out. I use to set it with a decent tug. Now I have to barely feel it. If I go tighter with the paper now it makes it worse now. Why would that change? All stock 3v2 and I have the bed springs pretty tight to keep from moving and as low as possible to still be able to turn the wheels. I have new springs coming but I'm thinking I'll have the same problem.
Would you be able to do a video on the BLTouch for the E3v2. Start to finish. Install, Calibration, First Print for some one who is new to all this. I've watched a bunch of BLTouch videos but it seems like things get skipped over in the videos that I've seen. I think a lot of this is due to the person who is making the videos already having it setup, level and ready to print. They are always like, "mine is already set but you just do this" but don't really show you. Thank you!
I put one on my V2 recently and, yeah, between guides with people running 3rd party firmware, using random brackets and other mods, or skipping over vital steps like setting the z-offset, it can be a bit of a minefield. A straightforward, start to finish guide on stock hardware would be very valuable.
Pointed this out only couple weeks ago as not 1 video showed you need to load up the bed adjuster springs to begin with and next is to take the bed amd nozzle up to operating temps as heat makes them expand so then they are different measurements again , so firm up bed springs then heat then level , FIRM HEAT LEVEL jobs done 👍😊
I've done this 8 times now. I have cleaned my bed and releveled another 3 times. I cannot get my pla to stick. what am I doing wrong? I'm on the verge of throwing this thing out the window....
@@NSSd80mac its an ender 3v2. I've tried the baby step method. I'm still getting issues with the PLA not sticking. I'm trying the adhesive now. We'll see how that works.
@@unixtool I had the same issue on my Ender 3 V2, but here's what I did to fix my issue after baby stepping the z axis did not work: 1. I raised my temp on my nozzle to 215 degrees C, originally Cura had it set to 200 degrees. Try increasing your nozzle temp to see if it helps. 2. I raised my bed temp to about about 65 C. This work great, but have since returned to 60 C. This was before I learned about the bes ways to clean the bed. I'm using 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. Aside from those two items above, I clean my bed each time I print just to make sure that I remove the bed from any oil residue, I usually clean my bed when it's already at 60 degrees and whilst the Nozzle is reaching printing temp. I've heard, but have no experience with brands of filaments failing, but apparently some filament brands are better than others due to the material quality. At this point I've use two different brands of PLA filaments: 1. Overture PLAPRO 2. Inland PLA+ One additional tip I have, use the bed leveling g code prints that's available at thingiverse, Jim makes mention of these in some of his videos. They give you a chance to dial in whilst printing, and can easily be reprinted over and over until optimal printing configuration is reached. Here's one I use. Ender 3 Redefined Bed Leveling Test & Calibration: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714033 See if these tips work. DT
by default a 3D printers nozzle when hot is around 200° celsius . a standard hot glue guns nozzle is around 193°celsius it doesnt combust the second it comes in contact with the hot nozzle.
@@jacoblathrop1835 no problem . you can safely level the bed while the nozzle is hot, its actually recommended that you level a 3D printers bed while the nozzle is hot so that exess philament will melt away & not tamper with your measurments
Okay, so I have been able to print almost a dozen small pieces no issue, now I am having issues with one particular print and it has to do with the level of the bed directly in the middle of the glass plate. How does one level the middle of the plate? You said it was easy enough to fix, but you didn’t explain how. I’m stumped. Other prints still work even have readjusting the level of the bed again, just not this one.
alright I have a new problem. When I’m printing a model, it starts to print smaller things but then it gets muddled up and just won’t print it right and the plastic will just start to move with it. I’m printing the flexible Dino and have turned down the print speed to only 30 % and it still gets all scrambled. Does anyone have any ideas?
my ender 3 v2 does something like z banding but very random, i check everything is square and x axis is on level, 90 deg plate is exactly 90deg, hotend is nice and clean, capricorn tube sits nice, no wobble in Y no Woble in X all medium tight, slicer settings seems not causing it, after upgrade to bondtech extruder same happen, after 2 spool of prusament using for calibration cube and benchy im done with this printer
I purchased an Ender 3 as my first printer. Never again will buy a printer that is not self leveling. I used a Bambu P1P self levelling printer last weekend and it was a dream. Fast setup with zero calibration. Yeah, more money but well worth it.
"Takes 5 minutes tops"
Me on day 6 still trying to get my bed leveled. . :')
Same here, I've spent quite a lot of time manually levelling the bed, even with BLTouch, there are always couple rebel circles when I run bed leveling print.. frustrating
Take a look to the excentric nuts on the botom of the bed, if yuo adjust , yuo change a little the geometry of the bed, resulting in a warpped or semi warped bed
What i do is use 2 pice of paper (not one), because i use 0.2 mm layer high, the point is use something similar to yuor layer high, for example, if yuo use 0.1 mm layer high, use just 1 paper(0.1mm paper)
@@noway8233 testing this now! .. will give updates.. i heard business cards are good also?
@@alexkurebis3907 i use a tipical pice of paper for printer, they mesere 0.1 mm aprox (yuo can check with a caliper), but for 0.2 layer high,i use 2 papers togerher, so the nozzle can touch them..when yuo fell some resistance, thats ok, the go to the other corner, always move a little cause when yuo change one corner, afect the others, so i do this a cople of time until they are more less the same(yuo can check the center too,and see how warped/flat is, an remenber, the eccentric can chage the geometry of the bed, good luck)
Something to keep in mind to make things go a little faster. Try to position the nozzle directly above the screw that you're turning. This will eliminate any of the extra rise or fall you get from being off from the pivot point. If you manage to be directly above the screw/pivot point, you will also eliminate the effects the screw adjustment will have on the other three corners.
That's what he said in the video.
Great advice. Thanks
Sounds genius, but still to be tested, will give my Feedback on this later, thanks
I started this and on my first pass around discovered the right rear corner was almost 5mm higher than any other corner. After a lot of troubleshooting I discovered the x-axis support was not square with the bed or z-axis supports. turns out one of the rollers was bent. once I fixed that looks like the bed leveling was working
dude i love you, thank you. this shits easy with practice but beginners like me need these dumbed down "5 minute" versions. you make everything much more understandable for someone who has no knowledge and bought a 3d printer for fun :)
great information, I've been printing for two years and still reference this video every time I change my nozzle.
at the end you talk about baby stepping to get that perfect first layer, but i wish you described what to look for and how to tell if you need to go up or down as it's starting. it's cool to know we CAN do minute adjustments, but we need to know what to look for to make a decision.
Imagine a cross section where the filament in a line is a slightly squished oval. That's what you are aiming for. If you look at the underside of your parts as you print more and more objects, you can keep dialling it in to get a nicer lower surface finish
Absolutely fantastic bed leveling tutorial!! It's perfect for beginners like me. You don't talk down to us but you don't talk over our heads either. Thanks for taking the time to make this for all of us noobs!!
I agree Dustin.
Dustin I agree.
It’s 2024 and Dustin. I agree
Hi, I just wanted to say thank you so much for making this as I got a ender 3 v2 this Christmas but after I assembled it the bed wouldn’t level as the top of the printer would touch the bedding hand when I pull the bedding it would scrape. I think I found the problem as this video has helped so I thing the problem was that the x axis went down to low and as you showed that we could move up the stopper this is probably going to make the printer able to move around the bed comfortably, thank you for making this.
I'm glad it could help! I hope You love your printer! Thank you for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTechNo problem thank you !
@@TheEdgeofTech happy new year man, have the best year!
@@drazo691 You too! Happy New year!
@@TheEdgeofTech sorry to bother but I have a bit of a problem. When I start a print it always messed up by the print not staying on the bed when the printer moves. It’s starts the print and then when it moves the print moves with it and it’s not sticking to the mat properly, if you have any idea what’s causing this please tell me as I’m trying to print some stuff for my brothers birthday which is in 2 days.
one thing I didn't understand, why would I touch the z offset settings? I know nothing about what the z offset setting does. How would I know if I have the correct setting
for the Z offset?
After a ton of video on how to level my 3d bed................your the BEST, Thanks
Awesome! I'm glad it helped and I hope your printing good now!
Very handy! This isn't my first FDM printer but my previous one had auto-leveling so I never had to worry about doing it manually.
I dont know why. I looked at many videos on leveling but i could not get it to work. Then I watched this video and I had it perfect after 30 min. Thank you!
UUUUUUUUUUHMMMMMMM you don´t have to loosen your Z-endstop. You leave the microswitch in the lowest position and screw the heating bed all the way down. Then you screw the heating bed back up until the distance between the nozzle and the printing bed fits perfectly with the piece of paper trick... AND THATS because during daily printing you never will check if the screws of the microswitch are still tighten. So what would happen if they are not and the switch isn´t in the lowest position? Right you destroy your printer....
Hi, I have a problem with the printer. I am new to 3d printing and when I start a print the plastic moves with the printer as it moves. I have levelled the bed properly and whenever I start a print it just doesn’t go straight on to the bed and curls up and moves around with the printer and I’m really stuck at the moment so any help would be great.
Another way of saying it is when it starts a print it does no go directly onto the bed when the nozzle is so close to it and it just lifts up. When I was printing the calibration cube it would just print and then when the nozzle moves it would go with it and not stay down when I’ve gone round the bed levelling a lot.
To me it seems like you don't have the nozzle close enough to the bed. Also make sure that your build surface is very clean. If it's glass you can use a little soap and water on it and wash it really good. Also, isopropyl alcohol works very well. Make sure you're using 60° c temperature on the bed as well.
@@TheEdgeofTech I made sure the bed was close to the nozzle and cleaned the glass bed and then printed out a benchy and it came out fantastic! Thank you man you’ve saved me!
Great video, re-set up my printer following this and now its printing perfect again, no more bed peeling !!
What plate is that? Can you link it please
I hadn't leveled my bed in a year (hadn't printed anything) and completely forgot how to do it, I got my bed leveled in less than 6 minutes (always was 10+ for me, as i want it perfect). Love the video!
What do you do if you can't get your nozzle close enough to touch the paper on the bed? I have my leveling screws as tight as they will go. I have no idea how to get the bed higher or the nozzle lower. my z stop is as low as it will go ad i still have a gap that is almost a quarter inch.
Did you back each leveling screw out four full turns?
Hi what do I do if the bed is to high and the z is at the lowest point please help
My fist printer is working well following your instructions, but I have the above issue with nr 2. I have Ender 3 vs 2 printers
Hi, when you say paper dragging in-between the nozzle and build plate is it like a scratching feeling? or is that too much?
Yes, exactly! But not tight enough where you can't push it back in with one hand. So you should be able to slide it both ways back and forth without the paper wrinkling. If the paper wrinkles it's too tight. But it will feel like a light scratching between the nozzle and the paper.
This is honestly my new favorite leveling guide.
I’m a little confused, at 1:09 are you turning them all the way counter clock wise ? Wouldn’t that be extremely loose to the point where the knob falls off ?
My right front manual adjustor just spins.....It will not move up or down! Defective? Any help would be great! Brand new machine out the box!
If you disable steppers, your z-axis will be free to drop down. Its better to leave it enabled and move XY with menu. And always move your nozzle right above springs, so you dont need to relevel 5 times.
it isnt going to drop because the z-axis rod is threaded
if you dont disable the steppers you are going to be putting wear on them and eventually burn them up
@@InZayne Thats not true. Do you think that z-axis stepper is disabled while you are printing? Its enabled whole time during print. And try to move the axis down with stepper disabled and you will be surprised how easy it is.
@@sviccc your z axis will not be able to drop down, because it is at lowest point possible due to the Z stop. Disabling makes bed levelling so much easier and faster, at least in my experience.
@@Mkayy9 i have bed leveled in one minute. When you drop your axis on endstop, you are actually beyond its switch point. And also putting stress on it...
@@sviccc autohome makes it touch the stopper.
1 minute with menu option? 😁 thats a lie, sorry. Or your bed has to be leveled at the beginning. If the bed is unlevelled you are risking to damage nozzel when setting it to move to other corner, because it would not stop when it starts touching the bed.
I had been having issues getting a good level but your video helped. Now my prints are coming out a lot cleaner. Thanks
Why say loosen & tighten? We need to know raise or lower. So do you turn clockwise to raise, and counter to lower?
I read that disabling stepper motors can result in slight changes to the nozzle's z position when moving the head around the surface. That's why I use the move option and use the screen to move the nozzle.
This can happen, and a lot of firmware is now including the Leveling option to move the hotend to the specific points on the build plate for you! Thanks for watching!
This happened to me. Somehow when I disable the stepper, the z-axis motor turns a little bit and that really ruins my leveling. I use different method by the way. Once I do autohome the nozzle, I move z axis by 0.2 or 0.4, then instead of paper I use feeler gauge with the corresponding thickness between the bed and the nozzle.
My ender 3v2 right out of the box was an absolute beast. Easily my best prints to date. I then went and upgraded my springs, Bowden tube, couplers and added a BLTouch and I can't get the bed to level worth a damn. Ive tried different methods and firmwares and even if I get the first layer to go down OK, it ends up dying about halfway through. So unbelievably frustrating.
same for me
@@ImranKhan-lx3fi check your extruder for cracks. Mine ended up broke, which was the reason for my poor prints. I upgraded to a metal extruder and have had no problems since.
Having huge issues now with my ender 3 v2 Bed Leveling, I get all 4 corners perfect (with bed heated and also without makes no difference) Middle always too high and doesn't stick at all, using Z-offset at -0.07 I get perfect first layer but every layer after gets closer and closer to the print and I have to set the Z-Offset to +0.15 then its perfect what am I doing wrong or is there a way to set this in Prusaslicer so its automatic
Why does the z axis need to be adjusted for every print?
@3:00 that's my AHA! moment! I kept trying to "auto home" and the directions said to make the extruder tip 0.8mm from the bed but mine kept hitting the z axis limit switch and stopping like 10mm away from the bed! I never thought to just manually screw it down using the z motor haha THANKS!!!!
*HOWEVER!!!
my z stop switch plate has a tab that keeps it from being mounted any lower, so I can't really "cheat" like this?? Should I remove the tab with a dremel??
Any help for this n0oB is highly appreciated!!!
(And yes I have adjusted the bed up until it runs out of threads, still too far away!!!)
But how can z-offset be negative?! As you have fixed the switch for for stopping the z-axis motor by 0?
Is it important to level with the device up to temperature?
The only tutorial that worked from the first time. Big thanks 🎉
If the extruder goes off the bed what do you suggest?
Finally, I leveled it while it was printing. Back was okay but front left just didn't want to play nice.
Jim, If you were going to buy a 300x300 printer without any budget constraint which model would you buy?
Man that's a great question! Shoot me a chat or email and I'll think about it in the meantime! Thanks for watching!
I need help I have a ender five pro and in my software I have no bed leveling feature I watched one of your videos download a new firmware and still there is no option to level the bed
Hey what sort of print plate is that?
I didnt understand the z offset at the end and I didnt see any numbers. Can someone explain further
But why, after I auto home, does it not reset it back to the way I just adjusted it??
I feel like ive been having this problem too, it auto homes to 2 different heights above the bed, I re-auto home a few times and it will then be where I correctly leveled to, I cannot figure out why this started happening. Checked the z limit for tightness, got new springs, level while warm, then I thought it was Gcode, but i double checked all that and found no issues. I usually have to end up adjusting the z axis in tune like this guy did, so I started printing with brims so I have a second to tune it before the real part of the print gets started. I got a BLtouch, but im not super excited to set it up yet, the zaxis tune helps me, but I know there is an issue going on that I cannot figure out. Annoying.
I followed the steps until 2:52 exactly but the paper doesn’t grab. There’s still a large gap. If I move the bed to the other side it grabs. Please help. I’ve been at this forever. I started over and repeated the steps so many times…
Thanks so much I am New to 3D printing and i was having trouble levelling the bed on my ender 3 and after watch I was off printing again..
Oh my god thank you so much my friend and I were going nuts trying to level it LOL you are a literal lifesaver
my printer came with metal clamps on the bed, do I take those off?
Just perfect thanks a lot for your time and well explaining lesson, Thanks a million !!!
Thanks...Very helpful video... what's the bed you are using on this printer?
It's a TH3D bed of some kind
Like David said, it's the TH3D EZFlez 2 bed. I think I did a video on it in the Ender 3 V2 playlist. There are links there!
I think I've done something wrong in assembly perhaps as when I tighten the front all the way I still have about 3.5mm before the axis is all the way down as if my bed sits a bit too high.
Tightening lowers the bed, also you may need to move your z-switch.
@@ndsrocks1 Yeah, I needed to move the axis up, ill have to do the same in the back as well.
There’s some cura prints you can get that’ll automatically position the nozzle over the four corners for leveling. POG
or use jyer's firmware
@@youraveragemetalhead226 whats that?
Umm following this has made my printer unusable. First I dropped the z switch down all the way then tightened the knobs. When I hit auto hone the nozzle was like 3mm away. But on the back the nozzle scapes and is so low the bed hits ( I physically cannot tighten the knobs anymore) the y motor. It's now screwed and not sure how to make it better....
i need help my sensor by the motor on the bottom dose not do anything unless i touch it and when i print the bed goes on the motor and makes a noise then it turns off my printer
Is it normal for the rear left knob (the one closest to the heat connection to not have a spring in it? I noticed that there was only three springs on my bed when I assembled it. The rear left corner knob didn't have a spring on it.
Hey I am super new at this. My corners are square but I seem to have a slight dip in the center of the bed. Any suggestions?
You have a couple of options. One, you can adjust the level to the center and make it work with the rest but it'll be a little low for the rest of the bed. Two, you could put a piece of tin foil or blue tape underneath the bed where the dip is and see if that's any better. Basically try to raise the center a little bit at time until it's better.
I was trying to do this again but my end stop was already all the way down as far as it could go. Things got confusing from there.
when i do this, there is still 5mm between the head and table with zreed switch as low as it can go, i need to wind the springs almost to point of no load before it can be levelled. Any ideas?
Trying this method now. My issue is that the z-stop cannot go any lower. the nozzle is nowhere near the bed when the z-stop is at its lowest possible point. I'm guessing this is because I still currently have the OEM bed springs, not the upgraded ones that you recommended in another video. Those will be here tomorrow, so I guess I'll try again when they get here
Update: With the yellow springs. this method was basically required as the yellow springs are slightly taller, the z stop needs to be offset up to match. Awesome, informative vids
Thankyou so much for this tutorial, i copied it step by step and was done in 4 mins tops.
I'm really new to 3d printing but my best tip is level right above the 4 screws first. (like in the video)
The skirt print helps as well. If it's thin the bed is too high, if it isn't squished but round, the bed is too low
is the process same as ender 3 s1
I was ready to trash my ender. Works like a charm now. Thx a lot!
Hello, just bought a ender 3 v2 (kinda late now ,I know) but when I lower the bed all the way it hits the y axis motor at the back. This means I can't follow the steps in the video, do you have any ideas what may be wrong? Or is this normal, its my first ender hahaha. thanks for your other videos about the ender 3 v2 theyre great!
My problem is with the bed it self, the stop button for the bed dosnt hit so when i auto home the bed goes back and over the motor because there's nothing hitting the stop button for the bed..
I often come back to this video asnits very helpful. Never, ever has it taken me five minutes. I mean, it's still a great video, I may just be an idiot!
Hey guys, if you guys are having trouble leveling your bed check to see if it's wobbling. I was having issues with my leveling until I realized this issue. You can just look up "how to fix a wobbly printer bed on an ender 3" or something like that. Easy fix
Where did you get that bed cuadricule sticker ?
I’ve been through the process with good success and great prints. I recently had a print fail, however, and when I tried to level the bed again, it doesn’t want to go level for me. Specifically, i get though the process, everything feels great, I auto home, and the nozzle hits the bed every time. What is the best way to trouble shoot this process?
Dou you level your bed before every print ?
thank you so much, this was one of the best tutorials i could find, keep up the good work!
Could you tell me what could be happening if I am unable to auto-home? Everything I try an auto-home, it goes to the center
Auto home is in the center
DOES EXPLAIN HOW GOT THE HEAD IN THE FIRST POSITIONS
Jim,
I installed a EZABL sensor on my Ender 3 V2, and have been experiencing frequent need to 'babyset' the z offset. I know you've done a video on the installation of this same Auto leveling technology. I followed the setup as specified in documents and an youtube video, including calibrating the sensor. I was wondering how your experience has been with the EZABL Sensor. Are you finding that the z offset has to be adjusted frequently?
Thanks
DT
Good question! I normally don't need to mess with it to much after doing it the first time. Are you saving the config on the printer after you dial in the baby steps? By that I mean going to control and clicking the save option. That should save the config and you shouldn't have to mess with it unless you move the printer or are still using springs that can move. I like using the solid bed mounts as them don't move and that's a variable that I don't have to worry about.
@@TheEdgeofTech Yes, I still have my upgraded "yellow" springs on the bed as insurance policy for me so if my print head come crashing down on it I'll at least some some accident forgiveness.. perhaps this is why I am experiencing my issues with leveling. I believe EZABL includes a STL file that has the solid bed mounts. I'll get to those today and give it another try. Another thing, I noticed that you are using a Magnetic printing surface from TH3D, how do you like it? I still have my original Ender Glass on my setup and I am seriously thinking about making the switch.
DT
Can an extruder skip due to poor bed levelling? I just assembled my V2 and the extruder is skipping 😢
I find the bed becoming a tiny bit loose or tight over a 48 hour period, so every couple of days ill check my z offset. My dad always tells me measure twice cut once.
Followed your method a couple of times now exactly and its worked both times thank you.
OMG, thanks so much! I think my Z stepper thing on the side had come loose! I loosened one bolt and the whole thing fell off. I had been leveling and re-leveling but my prints were coming out in dots and splotches. Thank you for the easy step-by-step, very well done! :) Looks like it's working great again!
I don't think disabling the steppers to do the leveling is a good method. When moving the hot end with your hand you can accidentally move the Z up or down, I get a much better result from using the move feature in the menu and let the motors do the real accurate movements. I have a gcode for it but you can manually do it also, Just set these z axis points to get directly above the screws. 1st screw is 30x30y , 2nd screw is 30x200y, 2rd screw 200x200y, 4th screw 200y30x
I also have Gcode that does this, but I wanted to show a quick method that can be done with nothing but the basic machine. But I do think it's a good idea to use the Gcode or leveling feature if it's built it I the firmware. Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech question for you regarding the method you used in this video. When you use the "tune" feature to adjust the Z stepper. Does the SD card save that new number?
When I 1st got my printer I used your method to level minus using the tune to adjust the Z. Now a half a roll of filament later... when ever I use the paper to just lightly kiss the nozzle. When I go to print, I have to lower the bed during the 1st few passes as it is smearing the filament. I actually have to drop it quite a bit to get it low enough. All my prints stick fine but I get a flat and wide filament that first pass around. Some times I get no filament out at all its so close. I never had that at first and I'm doing nothing differently than I am now and actually going lighter on the paper tug than I did when I started out. I use to set it with a decent tug. Now I have to barely feel it.
If I go tighter with the paper now it makes it worse now. Why would that change? All stock 3v2 and I have the bed springs pretty tight to keep from moving and as low as possible to still be able to turn the wheels. I have new springs coming but I'm thinking I'll have the same problem.
Would you be able to do a video on the BLTouch for the E3v2. Start to finish. Install, Calibration, First Print for some one who is new to all this.
I've watched a bunch of BLTouch videos but it seems like things get skipped over in the videos that I've seen. I think a lot of this is due to the person who is making the videos already having it setup, level and ready to print.
They are always like, "mine is already set but you just do this" but don't really show you.
Thank you!
Great Idea!
I put one on my V2 recently and, yeah, between guides with people running 3rd party firmware, using random brackets and other mods, or skipping over vital steps like setting the z-offset, it can be a bit of a minefield. A straightforward, start to finish guide on stock hardware would be very valuable.
Thank you, this was very helpful when I installed my magnetic build serface. 1st print seems to going very well.
So does all the wheels underneath have to be tight till you can turn them no more right
Pointed this out only couple weeks ago as not 1 video showed you need to load up the bed adjuster springs to begin with and next is to take the bed amd nozzle up to operating temps as heat makes them expand so then they are different measurements again , so firm up bed springs then heat then level , FIRM HEAT LEVEL jobs done 👍😊
Finally someone is showing how to do it . thank you
Thanks. I was able to get it level. I was going insane. Had the z stop messed up
One of the best levelling tip
Is there a way to zero-out the z axis adjustment, so I don't have to end up adjusting the z axis in tune for every print ?
Bed higher at the font than at the back can not get levelling done. Please help. The printer is an Ender 3 vs2
Man i cant understand this its all going well until the back left wheel it dosent work and i am kinda mad can you meybe help me somehow?
I've done this 8 times now. I have cleaned my bed and releveled another 3 times. I cannot get my pla to stick. what am I doing wrong? I'm on the verge of throwing this thing out the window....
DEC, what 3D printer are you having trouble with? Does it have 'baby steps" enabled in which you can adjust the z axis on the fly?
DT
@@NSSd80mac its an ender 3v2. I've tried the baby step method. I'm still getting issues with the PLA not sticking. I'm trying the adhesive now. We'll see how that works.
Also try reducing print speed to 50% for first layer to help it stick
@@unixtool I had the same issue on my Ender 3 V2, but here's what I did to fix my issue after baby stepping the z axis did not work:
1. I raised my temp on my nozzle to 215 degrees C, originally Cura had it set to 200 degrees. Try increasing your nozzle temp to see if it helps.
2. I raised my bed temp to about about 65 C. This work great, but have since returned to 60 C. This was before I learned about the bes ways to clean the bed. I'm using 70% Isopropyl Alcohol.
Aside from those two items above, I clean my bed each time I print just to make sure that I remove the bed from any oil residue, I usually clean my bed when it's already at 60 degrees and whilst the Nozzle is reaching printing temp. I've heard, but have no experience with brands of filaments failing, but apparently some filament brands are better than others due to the material quality. At this point I've use two different brands of PLA filaments:
1. Overture PLAPRO
2. Inland PLA+
One additional tip I have, use the bed leveling g code prints that's available at thingiverse, Jim makes mention of these in some of his videos. They give you a chance to dial in whilst printing, and can easily be reprinted over and over until optimal printing configuration is reached. Here's one I use.
Ender 3 Redefined Bed Leveling Test & Calibration:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4714033
See if these tips work.
DT
@@NSSd80mac thanks for the reply. I will give that a shot. I really appreciate the help. Thank you.
Why I can’t have negative on z offset
How is it safe to put paper underneath the nozzle when it’s hot, wouldn’t catch on fire?
by default a 3D printers nozzle when hot is around 200° celsius . a standard hot glue guns nozzle is around 193°celsius
it doesnt combust the second it comes in contact with the hot nozzle.
@@l0kaltpsykf4ll34 thanks
@@jacoblathrop1835 no problem . you can safely level the bed while the nozzle is hot, its actually recommended that you level a 3D printers bed while the nozzle is hot so that exess philament will melt away & not tamper with your measurments
great levelling video, worked perfect. thanks a lot🤘
Ive done everything but when i autohome it, i does the thing but goes up again instead of going down and touching the bed
Regarding the z-offset how much should I keep it at? Also should I activate it only for the first layer?
this helped me - thank you 🤖🤘
lefty uppy (loose) - righty downy (tight)
Okay, so I have been able to print almost a dozen small pieces no issue, now I am having issues with one particular print and it has to do with the level of the bed directly in the middle of the glass plate. How does one level the middle of the plate? You said it was easy enough to fix, but you didn’t explain how. I’m stumped. Other prints still work even have readjusting the level of the bed again, just not this one.
Oh and to clarify, the bed is just a we bit to high in the middle even though all four corners are perfect
V helpful. Still not sure about adjusting z axis as you print!
alright I have a new problem. When I’m printing a model, it starts to print smaller things but then it gets muddled up and just won’t print it right and the plastic will just start to move with it. I’m printing the flexible Dino and have turned down the print speed to only 30 % and it still gets all scrambled. Does anyone have any ideas?
my ender 3 v2 does something like z banding but very random, i check everything is square and x axis is on level, 90 deg plate is exactly 90deg, hotend is nice and clean, capricorn tube sits nice, no wobble in Y no Woble in X all medium tight, slicer settings seems not causing it, after upgrade to bondtech extruder same happen, after 2 spool of prusament using for calibration cube and benchy im done with this printer
My ender 3 bed was terribly shaking in its front and back movement, i fixed it with 2 linear bearing and 2 steel rodes, now the movement is very,,
I purchased an Ender 3 as my first printer. Never again will buy a printer that is not self leveling. I used a Bambu P1P self levelling printer last weekend and it was a dream. Fast setup with zero calibration. Yeah, more money but well worth it.
Thanks for the video. Got the printer leveled on my first attempt post you video. (failed twice before trying to do it by myself without guidance)
Thank you so much! I didn’t know I had to adjust the z axis stop