Dont fix Cladding/Siding like this!!! How to Fix cladding properly
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How to Fix cladding is really important
Fixing cladding with the correct fixings is really important, use the correct length type of nail that is suitable for the type of material you have
This video shows some softwood featheredge cladding that has been fixed with a 16 gauge brad nail and all the boards are pulling away from the structure
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35 years of invaluable knowledge stored upstairs .
Thanks Robin.
I've just used F/E on my shed, with a breather lining behind it.
I used type 90 18ga staples and used them so they were vertical and straddled the grain of the wood. So much easier than trying to hold the timber, a nail and a hammer while standing on a hop up. As you say Rob, they will corrode, so I will use galvanised nails as well once the timber seasons a bit. They were strapped and bundled in tens (no surprise there) and absolutely soaking.
As for electro plated galvanised nails. We had a fence installed by a contractor. The galv nails they used started to corrode within a year.
Really appreciate you passing on the experience!
Thanks Robin. I came to your channel to check that I’ll be doing it right next week (2024). Yo are my reference book.
A timely tip for me, as I am building a shed which I am considering covering with featherboard. I now know how to fix them properly. Many thanks.
Glad to help
More words of wisdom from the maestro of wood. Thanks robin.
Robin thanks for the great old school tips!
Thanks for the video Robin, good info as always. I use hot dipped galvanised framing nails for softwood feather edge, the 'electro galvanised' nails rust in a matter of weeks when used outdoors. Love the new logo btw.
Thanks very much for posting this. Am just about to do my first timber cladding and was going to Brad nail it. Not any more 😊 Great very informative simple video - I push a pen for a living so it’s all new to me 🙏
Excellent advice Robin. I didn't know about angling the nail slightly upwards. To expand on your comment about oak and stainless steel: oak reacts with non-stainless steels, leaving black marks and corroding the steel, whereas it doesn't have this effect with stainless steel. That's the same reason you should never use ordinary steel screws with oak, and brass screws are preferred.
Great piece of advice Robin, appreciated.
As i said last time. You're full of great info Robin, thanks
My pleasure!
Thanks Robin. Wish I had seen this when I fitted the cladding on our French barn. I did use SS ringed nails though. Mike
perfect timing mate, just about to take delivery of waney edge cladding for my workshop I’m building. couldn’t have timed it better!!
Nice one! Hope it turns out well for you boyzee 🔨
I thought i was a perfectionist until i saw your work.
The cladding on my garage\studio is all trying to fly away they are so curled up, i decided not to nail them using galvanised nails this summer as they are so bent and waney. I'm allowing these few months of wet weather to relax the cladding.
They have been fixed at the top so the nails cannot be seen.
I was going to nail them about 25mm from the bottom, nailing through both, but after seeing your video it makes perfect sense.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the tips Robin.
More great advice, Robin. It’s surprising how many people don’t fix feather edge correctly. I once saw a whole barn that had been ‘secret’ nailed into the thinner part of the board so the nail heads were covered by the next board🤦♂️, the owner had no clue and just trusted the guy that fitted the boards.
People insist it's a "thing" despite being measurably inferior in every way except for the fact you can't see the fasteners. I'd hate to see how that performed in a typhoon/hurrican situation where the whole board is just hanging from a top nail at the thinnest part of the board...
Honestly, do it the way shown here, and if you get your nail lines all neat and lined up that becomes a feature and a sign of good craftsmanship in it's own right.
I didn't know that galvanized brads aren't good for exterior, good to know. Luckily I only use them for interior anyways.. I really like the trick about using the upward angle on the nail at the end there, one of those things you just wouldn't think of unless you were told, very cool!
This channels a gold mine
Nice one RC, I learnt something new. Thanks 👍
No problem 👍
Great video and one that has sparked some well thought out comments - the only comment i'd like to have is keep the hair short as seen in SB videos a while back it takes years off your already young face!
Thanks for keeping the effort going in the channel, it really is showing your confidence in filming/youtubing in general growing..
Thumbs up.
Nice one Robin- we’ve got to build our boss an ‘outside office’ and he wants it cladding like this 👍
So much knowledge... keep it coming
Very helpful, thanks. We are going to give our garage cladding a go on a DIY basis. We are using green oak featheredge boards. What distance should I space the vertical rails behind them? I think I am going to use a hammer and hand nail them all.
Great as ever Rob
Great job Robin 👍
Great info👌how about fixing ship lap?
Very informative. Thanks RC
Thanks for watching!
👍🍀🇮🇪 always amazed at the way some cladding is fixed 🤦
I imagine those headless nails set off the OCD😬
Just changed my order to stainless steel nails for a cladding job. Thanks for the excellent advice
I just watched your video of you fitting the skirting boards in your big build, some really useful tips and advice
Great video Robin, and goes to show what happens when things aren't done properly. Is that another job on the list for you to do, including putting the guttering on!!!. Cheers.
Such knowledge! You know your onions!
Hi, that’s a really helpful video. Are clipped headed nails ok or do they need to be round head. Typically what length would you use when fixing feather edge boards? Thanks
Reminds me of the time I came across a feather edge board fence where all the boards had been fixed with what looked like panel pins.
A new neighbour moved in next door with a few lively dogs, the fence didn’t stand a chance.
Dogs next door, nightmare with the noise. Not for me in the slightest.
Good tips, thank you!
Robin would you advise this if doing a feather edge fence? I.e. when fixing through the feather edge board to Not fix through the underneath board? But miss the board underneath and just go above it liked you showed at the end? Thanks kind regards
Also a good idea (correct way!) to lay the boards heart outwards if they are sawn / reversible to improve longevity and ensure that any cupping of the boards happens the other way around,with the boards staying snug rather than curling away.It also helps stop the meeting ends at the outside corners of the run wanting to curl away from each other.
For nails.my weapon of choice would be round head hot-dipped galvanised nails (rough,grippy generous zinc coating) at length = 4xthickness of boards used and don't use a wafflehead hammer as it will trash the protective zinc plating.
I’ve got some PSE ledged and braced gates to make and thinking of using brads to clad it with TnG. Any recommendations on what to fix with?
Saw a TV show with a well known Guy that used to appear on ground force fixing Feather Edged cladding to a shed. He nailed through the thin end to hide the nails. When the camera scanned over it a few days later they had all curled up. The camera did move pretty fast too.
As a guy with 25+ years in garden buildings I can remember shouting at the TV when he did it !
Thats funny, I would love to find that clip!!!!
🤣Things on those shows usually only have to look good for a day or two while they film. Guess they didn't film fast enough in that case! But yeah, pretty obvious that will happen. I found a comment here on TH-cam where someone complained their weatherboards were all curling. Later mentioned they nailed the top for "hidden fasteners"... 🤦♂
You are certainly the man Robin.
What about the correct size of over lap?
We need all the help we can get out here
Great tips ,thanks
If you orientate the cladding so the centre of the tree is on the outside, the board always cups inwards and doesn't pull off the one below it.
Yup - I was always taught heart side out. I've been doing it that way for thirty odd years and it works just fine.
Can't do that on featheredge though, it's got a front and back. Looks wrong if you spun it around.
@@BillyMustang101 yes thats true one side has a 90' cut the other is beveled. I've only ever installed straight edge and wainey cladding, always heart on the outside.
Hi robin,,what cordless nail gun do you recommend for fixing featheredge boards?
That is spot on.
Oooh i fitted them boards 85 years ago on that job and at the time they were the only nails i had 😝
Never mind the cladding the fact you are so proficient at youtube comments at over 100 is awesome!
In the garden building Oak cladding vid you used an 18g nailer, what nails would you suggest using in an 18g for wavey edge cladding?
That nail was only used for the window trims, for the actual featheredge cladding I used a framing nailer with 63mm stainless steel nails, for waney edge cladding I would adopt the same fixing routine as the featheredge, 18g pins would not hold the cladding, hope that helps
Great info thanks. Our house is clad like that and a nightmare for birds and insects etc, we are about to have it all taken off and replaced with render. Keep up the vids👍
Birds and insects are in a massive state of decline and are facing extinction, we are also one of the most nature depleted countries in the world, please consider putting some boxes up on the wall after it's been rendered to replace any nesting space lost.
@@dougthebuilder1. Don't worry, our eldest daughter is an ecologist so wouldn't let us get away with not replacing nesting areas.
@@dougthebuilder1 I honestly don't get the desire to keep insects, birds and creatures off all kinds out. Live with them, much better in my opinion.
@@Raysnature You wouldn't be saying that if you were in my house at the moment, where a family of mice have died on the concrete below the floor! Bloody hell, that's a smell that lingers. Had to make a 1m2 hole in my wall to get access to the area behind the fancy hidden cistern in order to find a spot to drill through the floor (lifting the floor would be significantly more expense) and hoover up the corpses (the masasive gap around the waste pipes in the downstairs bathroom - bloody plumbers - was letting in the corpse smelling air as well as giving the mice free reign to come and go, albeit limited to that small area). Anyway, I agree with the sentiment, as long as they remain living!
great tip , BUT are there screw piles under that structure ???
As Eric morecamb would say "its just the way I walk"
Accidental dislike ... finger slippage . Good work as always Robin , you the man !
Click like & it will change 👍
Robin I wish you did more videos fella
A craftsman is RC
thanks 👍
What's the thinking on not fixing through the lower part of the top board and not "catching" the overlap of the board below? I've always done it like that, fixing about 30mm up from the bottom of the feather edge board so that you fix though both boards. I was taught in a lot of applications to fix (especially with cladding) to fix in a dovetail pattern, so that you aim your nail to the left on one fixing, then to the right on the next, or up and down if it where vertical. Great tips btw.
I’m not a professional but as I understand - the idea between using a single fixing as opposed to multiple is to allow the boards to expand and contract without splitting, the idea being if you’ve got two fixings very close together it doesn’t allow the boards to expand/contract naturally and risks splitting them.
Thanks for sharing the clip Robin, that was really useful. How much overlap do you leave on the boards ? I am not sure how much I should overlap one board on top of the other before nailing the top board into place. Can you advise?
It depends on the width of the cladding for 150mm you should allow 25mm to 35mm for 175mm allow 35mm to 45mm and 200mm allow similar to the 175mm board, featheredge cladding can vary in section thickness from 1 piece to another and the thin edges can sometimes run to nothing so find a bad bit and use that as the guide for overlap, new video coming soon
@@ukconstruction Thanks for the reply Robin, will use your giuidelines
Hi, is it the same when using feather edge boards for the roof of a log store? Thanks.
Yes, follow the same rational😊
Nice bro
No idea why this came up, just enjoying atea break. I am currently nailing featheredge boards on my fence using annular galvanised nails, one on each rail. I used gunnbbo swedish ones in the past (cross shaped profile that grips really well) but they dont seem to be available any more
what wood is that?
Wow why would ya use a brad for that?🤣🤣 absolutely spot on robin👌
That's about what the "pro" builders used on my house in Japan. A frickin pin, minimal rust protection, smooth and about 30mm long. After a couple of years they are rusting and working out of their own accord. Fortunately it's tongue and groove siding so it kind of holds itself together... I did overlapped weatherboard on my self-built shed and used 65mm stainless screw-shank nails with a decent head.
Before you put up feather edge, get the colour and waterproofing on first. Otherwise, when it shrinks you get super horizontal stripe effect.
Thats a really good tip especially if you plan to satin the cladding, top of the class for you Sexton
Cheers.
why does oak need stainless? is it because of the tannic acid?
screws brass ?
I always 45 degree miter the ends of the pieces instead of a simple 90 degree cut. Otherwise, if the siding shrinks the least bit, it opens a gap to allow water to enter.
And I now use 3" deck screws instead of nails. Almost any nail will pull loose at some point.
As a decorator trying to get the black out of oak because tight ass joiners using cheap nails, is hell for me. Oxalic acid works but tbh it still comes back.Replacing all beads is the only way! Anyway rant over 🤣
Interesting.
But in general how do you decide whether to use a nail or screw to fix wood?
Mrgeorge118 spot on. Although if the screws had a long enough unthreaded shank, surely you could get away with not pre-drilling?
@mrgeorge118 Thanks. I never considered the cost.
I’d done a bit of Googling and people were saying that screws were brittle so would snap if the wood moved sideways (due to temp or moisture etc) whereas nails would just bend and stay fixed. ‘“Shear strength” I think it’s called?
Bang a nail in first,if the timber splits,then you should of used a screw!
Dowels. What could go wrong?
The only comment I'd like to add is that stainless nails are great but they stay bright even when your wood has nicely silvered and the heads tend to stand out. I think the heavy galvanised ones would have disappeared as the wood silvered.
Great point!
Do you ever fix cladding the feather edge way but with normal planks , ??
Hi Paul, I have only done that a couple of times, its just a bit heavier and more expensive but its ok if you have a decent width board!!!
@@ukconstruction thanks Robin
Oh no!!! I have fitted my boards thin part to the bottom and worked up! Is that wrong!? 😓
👍
Good advice for anyone thinking of having a go DIY but who in god’s earth would think of using brad nails on cladding professionally? Those boards cup like nobody’s business once they dry out so you need plenty of bite on the frame underneath. I use always ring nails by hand or framing nails by gun and aim for at least a third of the nail into the supporting frame.
👍😊
good tekkers
More expensive and time consuming but I'd be using treated screws to hold this job together.
I have a feather edge fence that (to my knowledge) is 30 years old and the only way I can get the boards to hold on is with 40mm screws. Any nails just work out within weeks. It will need replacing before long so I'll remember this even if I have someone do it for me I can make sure it is done properly. Thank you.
Not a bad logo.
I use stainless steel screws for this. Better job and negligible time/cost difference.
Yes I use stainless steel screws and bore holes too
Dear Robin, I really appreciate your work and your videos. I would like to ask one thing: please DO NOT USE YOUR HAND AS A HAMMER! Carry a rubber mallet or a rubber cup/cover for your Estwing. You'd love to use those hands 10 years from now, the nerve damage from the hand bashing piles up, and you won't be able to hold a pencil later. It is coming from old folks of the trade, not (only) from me.
Bit of advice robin don't use your fist as a hammer, that not good for the old nerves in the hand.
Only saying
I’ve done this a few times with headed stainless nails and every time the customer has complained about the heads
Next time use no nails, then you get to come back and use sticks like S*&%. eventually they will agree on nails lol.
You have to educate them as to why you did it, that's all.
@@olafbigandglad you always know when you educate them they go and google it
@@markmarlow Not in my experience, but then, I've been doing this for 40 years and people tend to listen to me.
@@olafbigandglad 👍
Can't beat a good old 2" stainless steel round head nail, brads and liquid nails are a joke!!
Would ring pull nails work? There damned hard to pull out.
Yes they would be good Richard
@@ukconstruction Thanks Robin 👍
Screws better I’d thought?
So why feature that Milwaukee 18 gauge in your other cladding video. No way even f16 or 15 gauge strong enough.
Some cladding can take a brad nail as they rely on a tounge and groove etc also, but this type of cladding or featheredge must be nailed with a proper nail
A gutter would help that wall too.
Cut nails?
Insects need homes too!
shame because other wise it would have been a nice job