Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone! We are very close to the end of the supercharger rebuild shenanigans and I assure you that nobody is as relieved as me, next video is the last one focused on that topic and then we have all kinds of other things to get through before this engine lands itself in the Firebird for the first time.
This is Darkbloods /\ Actual mechanical channel. giving a second thumbs up lol. this summer I will be doing my second gen with a blower build, similar to yours. Will be autocrossed as well. all steps will be on my channel.
i love watching your videos because it's way more realistic. most folks (including me) don't have the time and resources to make everything showroom, and good enough is sometimes the name of the game
Great video series. Your perseverance is outstanding. Most people would have chucked the supercharge in the bin. Merry Christmas and have yourself a Happy New Year.
Just got home from work and saw you uploaded a video. This has made my morning if not day and gave me something to watch while I make breakfast. Thank you for such great content
Ptfe creeps very noticeably, to the point where teflon rings/seals can be precompressed before a piston or valve shaft is installed, where it wouldn't fit if not precompressed. Temperature helps here as well. Creep is a function of time and force and temperature. So there really shouldn't be any 'break-in" but the fit improves. The snagging is probably the not compressed seals hitting the port edges. Ps. The less movement between the splines the better for longevity, perhaps you can add some bearing locking compound (a very weak one) or some method of shimming (paint, shim stock) else all that dampens the impacts (engines don't run smooth and the blower is also an uneven load) is the viscosity of the lubricant. Heat cycling the lobes in an oven a few times should help with the seals shrinking and moving to their unstretched shape, before trimming. I think you are doing a great job for how little mechanical engineering background you have, and the limited tools/equipment.
Good info, glad to have you watching our videos! I considered filling in the space between the splines with something but when researching it, it seemed like solutions were either permanent or so temporary that I may as well not bother as they could cause more trouble than good. Since the shaft needs to be removed from the front of the snout, it would get very difficult to disassemble the unit if I used spline/retaining compound in there. As for the seals, there are changes from compression and temperature changes, but they also do very much break in by abrading against the case. Is that the best thing for them? Probably not, but they did shave down from a half-round shape to a trapezoid to fit the way they needed to.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects well the surface roughness of the bores is not the kindest to the seals now, so there definitely will be some wear untill some clearance exists
Excellent problem solving skills. That’s what hot rodding is all about. No one knows everything going into something. But you stayed at it and reasoned your way thru it. If it works remember what you did for the next time. If it doesn’t, take it apart figure out what went wrong and try it again till you get it right. That’s what it’s all about.
I’m a machinist and lube is your best friend when tapping cast aluminum. Moly-Dee works amazing. It smells to high heaven but gives the greatest outcome with cast aluminum or cast iron. Don’t be afraid of too much lube when tapping anything cast, it’ll save you in the long run
I really enjoy your videos and the series on the big block rebuild with supercharger I watched your S10 build as well. You have alot of drive and passion and courage to make it all work, on top of that sharing videos that's a job in itself and requires stamina. I want to say I'm not alone here I'm sure, but I really appreciate you sharing it and I'm sure its not easy and happy 2023 to you and all the best cheers
Hello Mr Fuzzy Dice, trained machinist here. I'd like to give you a couple of tips regarding yor handling of tools and stuff like that. 1- Buy a tap wrench and to be noted any cheap thing will do. Currently you run the risk of cutting the threads at an angle as well as making it easier to break the tap itself. The one sided turning with the adjustable wrench introduces radial forces. Additionally turning with a proper tap wrench is way more ergonomic and comortable. 2- When doing any drilling operation: Spin up the drill before contact with the material. Otherwise you'll crush the cutting edges of said drill and greatly diminish its performance. With a handdrill I'd recommend going with a slow speed and very low pressure on the drill until it bites the material. At that point increase the speed to the desired amount and increase pressure. Also use a lubricant when drilling whether it is WD40 old motor oil or PVBlaster it don't matter. Any oil will improve longevity and cutting action of a High Speed Steel drill immensly especially in aluminium. 3- If I were you I'd refrain from driving in bolts soley with an impact. You run the risk of cross threading the bolt and damaging or destroying it and the tapped hole. Start them by hand afterwards you're free to send 'em home with ugga duggas. 4- Regarding the input shaft I'd suggest changing the cylindrical key to a square one by filing the hole square. The dowell pin is more likely to be sheared off than a square key. If that's not possible (the filing) you should try to ream the hole at least and get a matching pin this will reduce the possibillity of shearing by reducing the slack within the pin and its hole. Lastly I gotta say although my heart bleeds sometimes from the cardinal sins you commit in the world of machining and iron work in general I still greatly enjoy watching you push through the obstacles with limited tools and sheer perserverance. In this spirit keep it up and Merry Christmas to you sir and god bless you.
Well done. Thanks for sharing your success and stumbles along the way. Too many edit out their missteps trying to protect their ego, if anything I respect you much more for being willing to share losses along the way to triumph!
Good work, and thank you for uploading so close to Christmas. I'm sure you have a lot of other things people would rather you be doing! My understanding is that thread inserts are, legitimately, much stronger so long as the depth remains the same. Nobody would have worked so hard to make the northstar v8s if they didn't!
This really is some of the best content on youtube in my opinion! Very entertaining and educational, all packaged with excellent videoediting. Keep up the amazing work! :)
I've rebuilt my smaller b&m 177, I found failure rates was higher without lube on both inserting and the walls of the housing and also did have to trim down seals slightly.
I got an old B&M 144ci supercharger that I am NOT looking forward to rebuilding when it needs it. I ALSO determined that I want to run a throttle body fuel injection system instead of a carb. (Not recommended by the manufacturer.) The idea is to be able to run 93 octane OR E85 (if I can find it) and only have to do minor tuning for each. Any suggestions as to what to look at in making a selection? Seems everyone is making their own nowadays.
Would freezing the rotors over night help to destress the teflon? Thinking is the metal and teflon would shrink giving some wiggle room for it to pull itself inward and destress.
Tip for next time, a little bit of red n tacky on the drillbit and tap will help with shavings. It's a well known thing in the sr world since you're probably going to be drilling and tapping the block for a turbo oil feed.
Please take the intake off and clean out those tiny aluminum shaving. They could do some damage to your piston rings and make for a bad day in the future. Also, I'm sure someone has already mentioned: you can use some grease when tapping threads to catch metal shavings. Good luck on the build! I hope your engine runs better than my problematic Ls7. Merry Christmas!
Looks like a case of "error and trial"... you bought someone else error, and it's putting your fix-it skills on n trial. If nothing else, you've given us an inside look at a supercharger, but fingers crossed that it will help spin the rear tires a little more aggressively. 👍
When you live in california and get the notification that fuzzy dice projects uploads @4 in the morning Achievement get Early bird gets the comment section
14:59 The right way is to use a hardened punch to break the tap into pieces and extract them a little at a time. Yes, it does work with patience. There are also tap extractors that don't cost an arm and a leg. edit; o yea, merry that whole Xmas thing.
The thread repair really should have been taken to a good machine shop. Also, lathe cutting the rotor seals is a fairly simple affair. This from a guy with a lathe and a mill in the garage... DIY is great and brings pride but you also need to know your limits and when you need to pay someone else to do it right the first time. The thread repairs will likely give you troubles in the future. A blower drive system transfers a good bit of power and needs to be rigid. The locations, thread class, and perpendicularity of your repairs leave some to be desired - this comes from free-hand drilling and tapping for the thread inserts. Done on a mill and fixed straight and solid, the manifold would have much stronger thread repairs. Good luck with it and have fun!
Running a bit of Teflon impregnated Dielectric grease along those seals would probably help them immensely. But the fact that the inside of that case is unpolished doesn't help.
You need a welder for sure. You have no idea how many time welding a stripped out bolt hole and retapping it makes for a more secure fastener than heli coils
You’re using the air tube apparatus backwards - the long end goes in your mouth allowing for a greater angle of entry thus lessening the chips in the mouth 😂
I assume you were trying to get a backlash reading of sorts with the dial indicator reading off the gear tooth/pulley tooth ? The 1st thing you must know is the diameter of the gear(s) or coupling you are trying to get backlash reading on. As you are trying to achieve the reading further down the shaft or transmission. Often times you will need to produce a bracket to bolt to the end of said shaft where as an indicator plunger can be placed anywhere along the gear diameter radius equivalent. IE : If your actual gear OD is 3.000" mount the dial plunger at 3.000" any other place up or down the bracket will produce false information, this is why you were saying the numbers don't mean anything. They actually do mean something
I really like your video style and projects but 5 videos on one supercharger? It seems like at this point it would be more economical to buy a new engine 😅 I would love to see more abandoned car projects like you did 😄
About 20 years ago my buddys show car burned to the ground and I bought his all gm bow tie 413 striker off him for 400 bucks and put a weiand 871 blower on top in a s10 4x4 and was way way over driven it ran like a promod and drove it once and let my friend take it to the store and told him don’t hit it I don’t have the blow offs on it and waiting for my Pullies and what he do? Hit it and blew the blower about 75 ft in the air and literally shot rods and everything into the road I was so pissed that was a super expensive Screw up and possibly about 2000 hp motor too. More than that block would handle
Full thread serts are far better than helicoils in any repair that meets a water or oil passage... not knocking helicoils they are a quality project. Just harder to seal around .
Whenever putting a threaded insert as in a larger bolt drilled and tapped you always peen the hell out of the outside with a punch or chisel to shrink the hole to grab said insert
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone! We are very close to the end of the supercharger rebuild shenanigans and I assure you that nobody is as relieved as me, next video is the last one focused on that topic and then we have all kinds of other things to get through before this engine lands itself in the Firebird for the first time.
best holiday gift
Merry Christmas and happy new year have a good holiday
Keep up the good work. One day you will move to a 6-71 blower, and youll never look back ;)
This is Darkbloods /\ Actual mechanical channel. giving a second thumbs up lol. this summer I will be doing my second gen with a blower build, similar to yours. Will be autocrossed as well. all steps will be on my channel.
As well you to you,I cannot simply wait to see how this project turns out lol always keeping me on my toes waiting for the next episode
What a headache of a build!
You're handling really well!
i love watching your videos because it's way more realistic. most folks (including me) don't have the time and resources to make everything showroom, and good enough is sometimes the name of the game
Came here a long time ago for the Blazer Build. It’s great to have a platform to watch real people do real world builds. Thank you for the content!!!
That thumbnail with the rotors parallel to each other is giving me hives.
The guy that sold this was a genius.
Some of the best automotive content on TH-cam! I can't wait to watch the result of your experiment here. Love it!
Thank you for your hardwork and the thoughtfulness you have for your audience, it's very much appreciated. Happy Holidays to you an yours.
So excited every time a new video comes out and looking forward to even more.
Great video series. Your perseverance is outstanding. Most people would have chucked the supercharge in the bin. Merry Christmas and have yourself a Happy New Year.
Just got home from work and saw you uploaded a video. This has made my morning if not day and gave me something to watch while I make breakfast. Thank you for such great content
Ptfe creeps very noticeably, to the point where teflon rings/seals can be precompressed before a piston or valve shaft is installed, where it wouldn't fit if not precompressed. Temperature helps here as well. Creep is a function of time and force and temperature. So there really shouldn't be any 'break-in" but the fit improves. The snagging is probably the not compressed seals hitting the port edges. Ps. The less movement between the splines the better for longevity, perhaps you can add some bearing locking compound (a very weak one) or some method of shimming (paint, shim stock) else all that dampens the impacts (engines don't run smooth and the blower is also an uneven load) is the viscosity of the lubricant. Heat cycling the lobes in an oven a few times should help with the seals shrinking and moving to their unstretched shape, before trimming. I think you are doing a great job for how little mechanical engineering background you have, and the limited tools/equipment.
Good info, glad to have you watching our videos! I considered filling in the space between the splines with something but when researching it, it seemed like solutions were either permanent or so temporary that I may as well not bother as they could cause more trouble than good. Since the shaft needs to be removed from the front of the snout, it would get very difficult to disassemble the unit if I used spline/retaining compound in there.
As for the seals, there are changes from compression and temperature changes, but they also do very much break in by abrading against the case. Is that the best thing for them? Probably not, but they did shave down from a half-round shape to a trapezoid to fit the way they needed to.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects well the surface roughness of the bores is not the kindest to the seals now, so there definitely will be some wear untill some clearance exists
Cant wait to see this motor finished up and in the Firebird! Hopefully the final install goes well 🙏
Excellent problem solving skills. That’s what hot rodding is all about. No one knows everything going into something. But you stayed at it and reasoned your way thru it. If it works remember what you did for the next time. If it doesn’t, take it apart figure out what went wrong and try it again till you get it right. That’s what it’s all about.
I could just watch Fuzzy Dice Projects videos all day every day. 😀
I’m a machinist and lube is your best friend when tapping cast aluminum. Moly-Dee works amazing. It smells to high heaven but gives the greatest outcome with cast aluminum or cast iron. Don’t be afraid of too much lube when tapping anything cast, it’ll save you in the long run
Well done..keep on keeping on 👍 you make excellent videos thank u
Hey Mr., new video, thank's for that christmas gift! And thank's for share knowledge! Congrats!
I really enjoy your videos and the series on the big block rebuild with supercharger I watched your S10 build as well. You have alot of drive and passion and courage to make it all work, on top of that sharing videos that's a job in itself and requires stamina. I want to say I'm not alone here I'm sure, but I really appreciate you sharing it and I'm sure its not easy and happy 2023 to you and all the best cheers
for some reason, i suck, i lost track of this channel for about 4 years...Damn, you have a great channel here!
Hello Mr Fuzzy Dice,
trained machinist here. I'd like to give you a couple of tips regarding yor handling of tools and stuff like that.
1- Buy a tap wrench and to be noted any cheap thing will do. Currently you run the risk of cutting the threads at an angle as well as making it easier to break the tap itself. The one sided turning with the adjustable wrench introduces radial forces. Additionally turning with a proper tap wrench is way more ergonomic and comortable.
2- When doing any drilling operation: Spin up the drill before contact with the material. Otherwise you'll crush the cutting edges of said drill and greatly diminish its performance. With a handdrill I'd recommend going with a slow speed and very low pressure on the drill until it bites the material. At that point increase the speed to the desired amount and increase pressure. Also use a lubricant when drilling whether it is WD40 old motor oil or PVBlaster it don't matter. Any oil will improve longevity and cutting action of a High Speed Steel drill immensly especially in aluminium.
3- If I were you I'd refrain from driving in bolts soley with an impact. You run the risk of cross threading the bolt and damaging or destroying it and the tapped hole. Start them by hand afterwards you're free to send 'em home with ugga duggas.
4- Regarding the input shaft I'd suggest changing the cylindrical key to a square one by filing the hole square. The dowell pin is more likely to be sheared off than a square key. If that's not possible (the filing) you should try to ream the hole at least and get a matching pin this will reduce the possibillity of shearing by reducing the slack within the pin and its hole.
Lastly I gotta say although my heart bleeds sometimes from the cardinal sins you commit in the world of machining and iron work in general I still greatly enjoy watching you push through the obstacles with limited tools and sheer perserverance.
In this spirit keep it up and Merry Christmas to you sir and god bless you.
MY Christmas Came early this year with another awesome episode from Fuzzy Dice. haha Great video and can't wait to hear that motor rip!
Well done. Thanks for sharing your success and stumbles along the way. Too many edit out their missteps trying to protect their ego, if anything I respect you much more for being willing to share losses along the way to triumph!
Good work, and thank you for uploading so close to Christmas. I'm sure you have a lot of other things people would rather you be doing!
My understanding is that thread inserts are, legitimately, much stronger so long as the depth remains the same. Nobody would have worked so hard to make the northstar v8s if they didn't!
This really is some of the best content on youtube in my opinion! Very entertaining and educational, all packaged with excellent videoediting. Keep up the amazing work! :)
Use thread locker on the heli coils , nice video , thanks.
Merry Christmas and Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year to you and your family.
Merry Christmas! You are my favorite car channel and I am excited whenever a new video comes out!
Thank you 🙏 for sharing hard work 😓 time with knowledge and great 👍 experience ! 💰💸💵💰⚙️
Always love your content!! Merry Christmas from New Zealand. 🎅🎅
good fix on threads, helicoil is super strong
Good job Fuzz
You can use a broach set to cut key way and install square key vs the round pin.
enjoying the videos thanks. Merry Christmas
keep pushing!!!!....doing a great job
Those 250 superchargers are one of my favorites! I had the 142, on a sb chevy, but it didn't look as cool as the 250. I miss that car,😞
Keynserts are another way of repairing threaded holes, that I have used with success in the past. Very strong, can be a bit fiddly though.
I've rebuilt my smaller b&m 177, I found failure rates was higher without lube on both inserting and the walls of the housing and also did have to trim down seals slightly.
I’m stoked to see the amount of blowby out of that bad cylinder lol
It'll be a smokescreen like in the old nes James Bond game. Just stomp on the gas to activate.
3 full turns after a good grab on an NPT tap is industry standard.
shouldnt it turn the other way? is this a marine reverse rotation?
Merry Christmas and great job on the series
I got an old B&M 144ci supercharger that I am NOT looking forward to rebuilding when it needs it.
I ALSO determined that I want to run a throttle body fuel injection system instead of a carb. (Not recommended by the manufacturer.)
The idea is to be able to run 93 octane OR E85 (if I can find it) and only have to do minor tuning for each.
Any suggestions as to what to look at in making a selection? Seems everyone is making their own nowadays.
Would freezing the rotors over night help to destress the teflon? Thinking is the metal and teflon would shrink giving some wiggle room for it to pull itself inward and destress.
Tip for next time, a little bit of red n tacky on the drillbit and tap will help with shavings. It's a well known thing in the sr world since you're probably going to be drilling and tapping the block for a turbo oil feed.
Well now, this is how you learn. You are already well beyond beginner but of course all these challenges will only hone your skill towards expert.
Merry Christmas Mike, keep up the great work.
Please take the intake off and clean out those tiny aluminum shaving. They could do some damage to your piston rings and make for a bad day in the future.
Also, I'm sure someone has already mentioned: you can use some grease when tapping threads to catch metal shavings.
Good luck on the build! I hope your engine runs better than my problematic Ls7.
Merry Christmas!
Left the seals on the last bearing you installed just like you mentioned on the first 2. Guess it doesn't need oil lubrication. Lol
Yes another video
Will the clearances stay the same at operating temperature?
Merry Christmas Mike:) great work
Looks like a case of "error and trial"... you bought someone else error, and it's putting your fix-it skills on n trial. If nothing else, you've given us an inside look at a supercharger, but fingers crossed that it will help spin the rear tires a little more aggressively. 👍
I am very impressed.
*praying for this to work*
Great video again, glad to see everything is coming together.
Can you still leave your garage with all the snow and cold?
Would heating the rotors and expanding them help with the seal install?
When you live in california and get the notification that fuzzy dice projects uploads @4 in the morning Achievement get Early bird gets the comment section
GREAT SHOW KID!!! KEEP THE GOOD WORK UP!!!!!
14:59 The right way is to use a hardened punch to break the tap into pieces and extract them a little at a time. Yes, it does work with patience. There are also tap extractors that don't cost an arm and a leg.
edit; o yea, merry that whole Xmas thing.
I believe the best tool you have right now is your patience.
Also, a properly installed helicoil is much stronger than the original aluminum threads.
3:37 I wonder what my 420 is? And where did you get the teflon strips?
Love this series
one of the most fun builds to watch on youtube, cant wait to hear it fire up someday, you gunna fire it up on a test stand before install?
The drive gears need to be shimmed to provide proper clearance and rotor timing. Looks like you need to check that.
The thread repair really should have been taken to a good machine shop. Also, lathe cutting the rotor seals is a fairly simple affair.
This from a guy with a lathe and a mill in the garage...
DIY is great and brings pride but you also need to know your limits and when you need to pay someone else to do it right the first time. The thread repairs will likely give you troubles in the future. A blower drive system transfers a good bit of power and needs to be rigid. The locations, thread class, and perpendicularity of your repairs leave some to be desired - this comes from free-hand drilling and tapping for the thread inserts. Done on a mill and fixed straight and solid, the manifold would have much stronger thread repairs.
Good luck with it and have fun!
Almost wonder if the unbalanced shaft is what destroyed the last seals. Looks very good though. Merry Christmas!
Running a bit of Teflon impregnated Dielectric grease along those seals would probably help them immensely. But the fact that the inside of that case is unpolished doesn't help.
Have you checked the flatness of your case? Something is bent.
So did you ever remove the orange seal on the snub bearing?
There wasn't a hangup spot, there was a loose spot. You need a trimming jig for the apex seals
Merry Christmas 🎄 🎅
You need a welder for sure. You have no idea how many time welding a stripped out bolt hole and retapping it makes for a more secure fastener than heli coils
Im learning with you to do the same here in Brazil... Hahahaha
Happy holidays 🎉
Just a humble opinion here. I would have heated the rotors in an oven to enlarge the channel and make the Teflon install easier
Christmas gift!!!
You need a brass hammer! Haha sweet vid
Merry Christmas
Did we ever figure out the pinto overheating issue???
I'm afraid that the Teflon will expand and lengthen, causing the ends to protrude into the housing.
That pin is a bit sketchy as it acts like a ramp. Love the series.
Fixing my daughter's 1993 Ford Ranger felt a lot like this.
love this video!, you earn a scuription
You’re using the air tube apparatus backwards - the long end goes in your mouth allowing for a greater angle of entry thus lessening the chips in the mouth 😂
What works really good you should use key locks.
Finnaly.... merry chrismas, sir!
Imagine if you put it on the 302 in the Pinto...300 degrees? 400? Lol.
8:00 wait so you forgot the take of the plastic thing again, or is that meant to stay on?
That one is meant to stay on, it's the ones in the case that get removed
i have found "time serts" to be better. since they are solid, there is less chance of leakage.
Sandblasting a polished surface was a bad idea..
I agree, however a very thin smear (with a sponge) of ceramic coating/paint/lacquer would have been great after the abbrasion.
Hard graft, mate.
I assume you were trying to get a backlash reading of sorts with the dial indicator reading off the gear tooth/pulley tooth ? The 1st thing you must know is the diameter of the gear(s) or coupling you are trying to get backlash reading on. As you are trying to achieve the reading further down the shaft or transmission. Often times you will need to produce a bracket to bolt to the end of said shaft where as an indicator plunger can be placed anywhere along the gear diameter radius equivalent. IE : If your actual gear OD is 3.000" mount the dial plunger at 3.000" any other place up or down the bracket will produce false information, this is why you were saying the numbers don't mean anything. They actually do mean something
Ayyyy early Christmas!
Use compressed air dusters!!!
I really like your video style and projects but 5 videos on one supercharger? It seems like at this point it would be more economical to buy a new engine 😅
I would love to see more abandoned car projects like you did 😄
It's the journey not the destination. "I bought a crate motor and a Edelbrock SuperCharger...., done".
About 20 years ago my buddys show car burned to the ground and I bought his all gm bow tie 413 striker off him for 400 bucks and put a weiand 871 blower on top in a s10 4x4 and was way way over driven it ran like a promod and drove it once and let my friend take it to the store and told him don’t hit it I don’t have the blow offs on it and waiting for my Pullies and what he do? Hit it and blew the blower about 75 ft in the air and literally shot rods and everything into the road I was so pissed that was a super expensive
Screw up and possibly about 2000 hp motor too. More than that block would handle
Always used a gm 671
Full thread serts are far better than helicoils in any repair that meets a water or oil passage... not knocking helicoils they are a quality project. Just harder to seal around .
Whenever putting a threaded insert as in a larger bolt drilled and tapped you always peen the hell out of the outside with a punch or chisel to shrink the hole to grab said insert
yaaaaaaay