Going six weeks between uploads was definitely not planned; I apologize for the delay. We have been busy working on all sorts of projects and these reassembly episodes are a big time sink to edit. This is the first of three 454 reassembly videos, I will be getting the next two edited and uploaded ASAP but I can't give a date for them at this moment. There will be several more episodes on figuring out accessories and other parts after that but the pace should speed up once the long block is together. Thanks for sticking around!
I rebuilt my geo metro engine on the garage floor, I took no measurements because there was nothing I could do about it if they were bad... I was very surprised and happy when the thing ran without issue.
There are probably only a handful of TH-camrs that narrate to your standard. Calm and engaging narration is an artform and you should be proud of that ability. It's a pleasure to watch.
I will be showing this one in my classroom too! This episode is by far the best. Your explanation and layout on measuring is spot on! I couldn't have done it any better! I teach automotive technology at the local career center for junior-senior high school students and I ran the whole serious of your sbc rebuild in class last school year and the students loved it! You got so many compliments from ALL my students on how well you covered and explained things. They especially got a kick out of "this is how your supposed to do it , but this is how I do it". Getting students to spend quality time during the measurement part of the hands on engine rebuild is so challenging. They always want to rush it or not do it at all. This video will be a big motivation builder. "See you guys...Fuzzy Dice took it seriously and did his measurements!" will be my go-to saying for this coming school year. Anyway, thank you for all your effort and what you do and I think you are awesome! Now do I run the sbc or bbc videos in class this year??? 😃
Maybe you should see if fuzzy wants to come to one of your classes as a guest instructor? I know as a kid i would have loved it and fuzzy might enjoy doing it. Just a thought
Yes. YEs. YES. I've been waiting for this part. I am truly looking foward to see the tolerances. My pre-video guess is that they are absolutely okay. Will edit with a post-video comment. EDIT: Well those cyl 7 tolerances are a great future content possibilty.
I love this! Ive been working on cars as long as i can remember. I remember rebuilding my first engine at 7. It was a 1980 Honda xr 80. Ever since then Ive loved working on cars and well anything with an engine. Ive never taken my car to someone to fix and never will. I can rebuild a Chevy small block in my sleep but, who couldn't lol. Right now im building a 06 Dodge Charger R/T 5.7 Hemi with 186,000 miles for the first time. Im also building a 06 Chrysler 300 SRT8 engine i got give to me. I love to see the everyday mechanic doing this work. I would rather watch you build and engine than someone like Power Nations all day. Awesome work and i can't wait to see the next episode.
What I like about this build is the fact you are showing what can be re-used for a budget build. You don't need to replace everything if tolerances are within spec! I had no choice with the Mazda engine I just rebuilt. The cranks and connecting rods for the 2.0 and 2.2 are not available. Anywhere. They don't make them new and nobody has any remanufactured. I bought an 87 B2000 and had the engine on the stand ready to assemble. Block honed, new pistons pressed and the crank journals were within spec. But then I checked end play. The thrust journal on the crank was TOAST. After searching and coming up with nothing I found a second truck. A 91 B2200. I was lucky to have a good crank and rods in that 2.2. They said they were the same block. Well yes and no. A 2.2 is a stroked out 2.0. I had to buy another gasket set and pistons. I bought two trucks just to build one engine. So sometimes you don't have any choice but to re-use parts and pray! I look forward to the next video sir!
There is an old practice called knurling that can be used to increase the diameter of one piston. I seem to remember my machine shop using it on valve guides and pistons back in the 60’s.
I recently had some pistons knurled because they came in at .005 piston to wall and I needed .002. I was already at max bore so no option to rebore and get larger pistons. So instead of trashing the block and pistons my machinist knurled the pistons and then knocked the edges down until they micd right at .002 piston to wall. Old technique and not ideal but perfect when your trying to save money.
Love the videos, remember watching the 280z build years ago and couldn't recall your channel. Stumbled upon your channel and have been binge watching the builds over the past few weeks. So educational and relaxing at the same time. Keep up the quality work.
Do yourself a favor(and your timing chain)and drill one of those plugs out. Just a small hole. Old engines didn’t have those holes in the plugs. But old engines didn’t last as long either. The factory did this this reason. I like how you do these on the cheap but you should have replaced a couple of those valves in the head. That’s not going to work out too well with no margin on the valve. Keep up the great work! I really enjoy your videos.
Hate to break it to ya, but this engine has been fully assembled for probably over a year now. The footage shown today was filmed a year and a half ago almost.
Every time I watch one of you’re videos it makes me really want to have a project car. I miss building engines, and love watching hard work pay off. One day I’ll eventually have one I can work on with my son when he’s old enough. Keep up the good work, can’t wait for the next episode where you get to gap the rings.
24:48 Haha, I totally get that. I once had to make a second trip to the hardware store when I realized that the two bolts I had bought to replace bellhousing bolts had different head markings {not different grade, just cosmetic differences in the layout of manufacturer markings)
Good job guys , I always found unless you have a really marred shaft where you Spun , or severe wear ,are going to be OK plasty gauge is good but I have used it and I’ve not used it ,never had a problem as long as I don’t see any metal to metal or severe wear on the crank or the rod service and I’ve built many engines, The out of round is something I always check that’s ,and if I’m out of round like you said more than two or ..003 or worn I’ll just go ahead and bore Usually .030
You can torque the main caps with the bearings and no crank. Then measure the bore of the main caps and subtract from the diameter of the crank for oil clearance right? Just making sure.
Always look forward to watching you videos; you make the process look so easy. As someone what of a novice, hope to someday be able to work to the degree of precession as you do. Looking forward to next part!
I have a bit of a history with that word lol. In the first Blazer engine series I called them "galleries" and many people corrected me as you did. Then I switched to "galleys" and I got even more corrections. Colloquially, both are correct as far as I'm concerned, but based on word definitions I believe "gallery" to be more correct so that's what I stuck with
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Well if they called the plug fitting a "gallery plug", you might have a case. But they don't. They are universally called "galley plugs" because they plug galleys (not gallerys). Hope this clears it up for everyone.
And your videos are outstanding and reflect a high degree of knowledge and expertise. If you ever want to do a classic Mercedes or BMW I will donate a project car up to $2000 cheers!
@@joelpalmer I have an old sbc manual, published by Chevrolet, that refers to "oil galleries". Gallery is the only way I've ever heard it referred to as.
@@funonoldwheels7150 if you look anywhere for the plugs you will see that they are called "galley plugs". Gallery is simply a misapplication of a similar sounding word. Like "irregardless" for irrespective. And Chevrolet manuals do not override the Oxford English Dictionary
I don't know about GM engines but on a Ford 302 engine with the one piece rear main seal you have to put a thin layer of RTV on the rear main crankshaft cap matting surface before putting it in. That thin layer of RTV will keep an oil from seeping between that matting surface. I know this from experience. When I tore down my Ford 302 I got out of a Ford Explorer I noticed a very thin layer of RTV on the matting surface of the rear main cap for the crankshaft.
During the disassembly I thought I remembered you removing a small plug with an extension because it crossed paths with another journal of sorts, but I didn't see you reinstall it?
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I got all the plugs back in but I'm definitely not perfect lol. There were some for the oil filter adapter that we didn't reinstall, and a long extension was used to knock out the rear cam plug. Most of the factory ones were square drive which presented some difficulties in removing them too.
I've never messed with a big block but I know the SBC has a press-in plug deep inside the vertical oil galley for the oil pressure sending unit. You have to press it in from below before installing the rear main cap or oil won't be diverted to the filter. Not sure if that's what you're talking about or of the BBC even has one.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects I went back and watched that episode and sure enough, I was wrong. I guess I am thinking of something else. lol Oh well, sorry about that.
At least you have a power tool to start the bolts and to unscrew them. Back when I built a performance engine, I had no power tools for such things, everything was by hand.
I rebuilt a Chevy 350 and had the machine shop put all the plugs in but they missed one on the driver side head face. The hole was half covered by the head and I didn’t know until I tried to start it and spit oil everywhere. I had to pull the head back off and put it in.
When ordering all the bolts: do you just look for them in a hardware store for matching ones or do you order at the manufacturer directly so you have the exact specced ones?
What's the proper way to deal with those cylinder measurements being out of acceptable range? Take it to the machine shop and get new oversized pistons?
Cylinder roundness and all that is fine. I’m in the get larger rings camp. As long as you make 100psi per cylinder it will run perfectly. Of course the oil consumption will slightly increase but a perfectly functioning engine is in fact a perfectly functioning engine. Run it until it blows up my friend. You could get another 100k out of it as is.
It's okay, you didn't need that cylinder anyway. Cylinders 7 and 8 are just spares. I once had an old Chevy van that had a clapped out 305 in it. It ran on 6 cylinders most of the time, and 7 when I was really standing on it. Long live the Chevy V8! Or is that a V6.5?
On one V8 we unplugged a spark plug wire and it made it run better and cooler to help get up a steep incline. So this is just getting ahead of the game lol
I know this is not that build, and they are probably fine, and it's probably too late. But - I would seriously consider replacing the brass freeze plugs. Brass is good and what I use too, but the plugs deform easily if driven in using the tool on the ID of the plug as shown. Do it all again, but use a flat face driver or socket that closely matches the outside diameter so the driving force is only contacting on the outside edge of the plug. Trust me, it's better to spend the $25 now than after it's in the car and one pops out while you're breaking in the cam... Also might consider Indian Head shellac instead of RTV. PS - Don't throw the new brass plugs in the lake. :P
What would a bore and sleeve job run on a block like this? Also, was wondering the cost on doing that versus do a .010 over bore and new pistons? Not suggesting you do that, but am interested. edit: Some digging I found runs $100 to $150 per cylinder. Would this be a worthwhile investment on the block for cylinder #7? Or will we find out how much that out of spec measurement actually affects the engine when you do compression testing?
Is the engine just going to eat itself quickly? Seems like the bore/piston tolerances are too large, and this engine will need machine work in short order.
Ouchie!!! Those cylinder measurements sure weren't the best but being a lazy big block it should last a fair while before blowing smoke and loosing compression. Shame really cos the crank was so darned good. 👍
Man, I want a firebird. What's it like to drive? My car isn't the smoothest or quietest, but I've never owned a classic before and am not sure what to expect.
I have a 78 camaro (same overall construction) if you have good shocks and bushings and your car is in overall decent condition its actually a fun ride. They are heavier and you can feel it compared to modern cars. What i like though is you have more feedback through the wheel and gas pedal that alot of new cars are lacking. Road noise can be a bit louder too but replacing the factory sound proofing with more modern stuff can handle that too. again depending on the overall condition of the car you can have alot of squeaks and whistling and rattles. This is due to old worn out weather stripping around the doors and windows and if the hinges on the doors are worn out. F body cars (camaro/Firebird) are notorious for having floppy doors as the hinge bushings wear out and elongate the holes causing the doors to sag. Mine has good hinges but needs new weather stripping as it was poorly stored outside in a desert environment when it was younger. Im having the 305 rebuilt now too so its performance will change drastically compared to how it was factory.
Well, cylinder 7 def isn't ideal, and yes a number of tolerances out of factory spec, but honestly, I do think you'll be fine. Usually one wants to add about .001-.003 additional clearance for the piston to bore with a power adder anyways (yay supercharger), and by that measure it's only cylinder 7 that really is falling out of max spec. May not be super ideal, but I have no doubt that this will be a very healthy and stout "rat" motor when your done. :-)
Very good and thorough pre assembly. This is the key to a successful engine build. A lot of DIY’ers skip the measuring. That said, and I know you know better but, #7 bore, cam bearings, and valves/valve job takes away from this excellent video on how to do things right.
It can be a walkthrough and a cautionary tale at the same time, right? Especially if something does end up failing, it will illustrate to myself and others why those little things are so important.
At this point I honestly think he doesn’t care, i mean he got it for 200 bucks, and if it breaks more content🎉, wait a minute….. HES DOING IT ON PURPOSE!!!!
Rigid hone is definitely the best as long as you have a good one. The stones are held parallel and they let you get cylinders sized accurately and parallel. Work for a moderate size spread of cylinders. But, they are $125+. A three stone hone like I used for this rebuild is quick and cheap, fits a very wide range of cylinders, and can remove a lot of material with the right stones. $15-30. Ball hone is the easiest to use but only good within a small range of cylinder diameter, and you have to get a while different hone to change grit. Can still remove a lot of material, gives the best (looking) crosshatch surface finish in my opinion. $40-80
Going six weeks between uploads was definitely not planned; I apologize for the delay. We have been busy working on all sorts of projects and these reassembly episodes are a big time sink to edit. This is the first of three 454 reassembly videos, I will be getting the next two edited and uploaded ASAP but I can't give a date for them at this moment. There will be several more episodes on figuring out accessories and other parts after that but the pace should speed up once the long block is together. Thanks for sticking around!
I literally was thinking when will you upload your next episode? A minute later I received a notification that you uploaded it.
WOW 🤣
I really enjoys your channel, but I know you have another life as well. Thanks for the update. They are always appreciated.
How come u can't post alot of videos if u pretty much filmed it a year ago
No worries.
@@ramzial-samaraie2979 probably because he needs time to edit it.
I rebuilt my geo metro engine on the garage floor, I took no measurements because there was nothing I could do about it if they were bad... I was very surprised and happy when the thing ran without issue.
Like they say, the worst thing you can do is start checking tolerances and such. You might find one which is out! 😄
I’ve always liked the saying “don’t check your cam bearings or they’ll be bad.”
Nice pfp lol
I love geo metros. What year you got? 2-4 door?
@@That1BVP I had a 91 convertible and the other was a 2 door 93, I think. I still miss the convertible.
There are probably only a handful of TH-camrs that narrate to your standard. Calm and engaging narration is an artform and you should be proud of that ability. It's a pleasure to watch.
I had a rough day at work today (I live in Japan). This video was just what I needed to calm down and relax. Thank you so much man.
That video editing and presentation of the measurements was perfect. Glad to see so much effort in your videos rather than rushing them!
I had to pause and find this comment. The stabilized magnification of that gauge was excellent. Great job man!
I will be showing this one in my classroom too! This episode is by far the best. Your explanation and layout on measuring is spot on! I couldn't have done it any better! I teach automotive technology at the local career center for junior-senior high school students and I ran the whole serious of your sbc rebuild in class last school year and the students loved it! You got so many compliments from ALL my students on how well you covered and explained things. They especially got a kick out of "this is how your supposed to do it , but this is how I do it". Getting students to spend quality time during the measurement part of the hands on engine rebuild is so challenging. They always want to rush it or not do it at all. This video will be a big motivation builder. "See you guys...Fuzzy Dice took it seriously and did his measurements!" will be my go-to saying for this coming school year. Anyway, thank you for all your effort and what you do and I think you are awesome! Now do I run the sbc or bbc videos in class this year??? 😃
Maybe you should see if fuzzy wants to come to one of your classes as a guest instructor? I know as a kid i would have loved it and fuzzy might enjoy doing it. Just a thought
That torque wrench click is like mechanic ASMR.
Yes. YEs. YES. I've been waiting for this part. I am truly looking foward to see the tolerances. My pre-video guess is that they are absolutely okay. Will edit with a post-video comment.
EDIT: Well those cyl 7 tolerances are a great future content possibilty.
7/8 right is an 87.5%, that’s a B+
The rest of the channel is A+ though
@@ubertalldude They will be fine the 7/8 are the hottest cylinders in chevy V8 the increased tolerences will help it live.
I literally envy anyone that watches this without having to wait for the next video to come out
12:06 fantastic edit, making the gauge easier to read!
I love this! Ive been working on cars as long as i can remember. I remember rebuilding my first engine at 7. It was a 1980 Honda xr 80. Ever since then Ive loved working on cars and well anything with an engine. Ive never taken my car to someone to fix and never will. I can rebuild a Chevy small block in my sleep but, who couldn't lol. Right now im building a 06 Dodge Charger R/T 5.7 Hemi with 186,000 miles for the first time. Im also building a 06 Chrysler 300 SRT8 engine i got give to me. I love to see the everyday mechanic doing this work. I would rather watch you build and engine than someone like Power Nations all day. Awesome work and i can't wait to see the next episode.
What I like about this build is the fact you are showing what can be re-used for a budget build. You don't need to replace everything if tolerances are within spec! I had no choice with the Mazda engine I just rebuilt. The cranks and connecting rods for the 2.0 and 2.2 are not available. Anywhere. They don't make them new and nobody has any remanufactured. I bought an 87 B2000 and had the engine on the stand ready to assemble. Block honed, new pistons pressed and the crank journals were within spec. But then I checked end play. The thrust journal on the crank was TOAST. After searching and coming up with nothing I found a second truck. A 91 B2200. I was lucky to have a good crank and rods in that 2.2. They said they were the same block. Well yes and no. A 2.2 is a stroked out 2.0. I had to buy another gasket set and pistons. I bought two trucks just to build one engine. So sometimes you don't have any choice but to re-use parts and pray! I look forward to the next video sir!
As a young Canadian I really appreciate your videos! Old V8 guys are hard to find around here :)
There is an old practice called knurling that can be used to increase the diameter of one piston. I seem to remember my machine shop using it on valve guides and pistons back in the 60’s.
I recently had some pistons knurled because they came in at .005 piston to wall and I needed .002. I was already at max bore so no option to rebore and get larger pistons. So instead of trashing the block and pistons my machinist knurled the pistons and then knocked the edges down until they micd right at .002 piston to wall. Old technique and not ideal but perfect when your trying to save money.
Love the videos, remember watching the 280z build years ago and couldn't recall your channel. Stumbled upon your channel and have been binge watching the builds over the past few weeks. So educational and relaxing at the same time. Keep up the quality work.
I was constantly checking your channel for new episodes for a whole month. Love this series, makes me wanna rebuild my own engine!!❤️
Do yourself a favor(and your timing chain)and drill one of those plugs out. Just a small hole. Old engines didn’t have those holes in the plugs. But old engines didn’t last as long either. The factory did this this reason. I like how you do these on the cheap but you should have replaced a couple of those valves in the head. That’s not going to work out too well with no margin on the valve. Keep up the great work! I really enjoy your videos.
Hate to break it to ya, but this engine has been fully assembled for probably over a year now. The footage shown today was filmed a year and a half ago almost.
@@jamieschinkai1267 I anticipated that …. But my statements are still true
Every time I watch one of you’re videos it makes me really want to have a project car. I miss building engines, and love watching hard work pay off. One day I’ll eventually have one I can work on with my son when he’s old enough. Keep up the good work, can’t wait for the next episode where you get to gap the rings.
I love the look of Welsh plugs with a smoothed bead of sealant around them. It just looks so good!
amazing that the crank and camshaft are still absolutely perfect from the factory half a century later
I appreciate your attention to detail in your all your projects
That trick with the washer was smart!
Loving the series so far, looking forward to seeing this fire up.
24:48 Haha, I totally get that. I once had to make a second trip to the hardware store when I realized that the two bolts I had bought to replace bellhousing bolts had different head markings {not different grade, just cosmetic differences in the layout of manufacturer markings)
Bruh I forgot this series existed thank god it's back tho
Thanks for the great editing with the tolerances! Made it really easy and enjoyable to follow along.
Man, i don't know anything about cars, but i'm loving these videos, they're the most entertaining thing i've seen on yt in the last months
Thanks for the video! Hope all your other projects that are keeping you busy are going well!
Glad to see the numbers even though you left it. Eager to see how it holds up and what not.
The click of a torque wrench is so satisfying.
Best videos just to watch and relax
The "out takes" at the end are gold... I hope you do it at the end of the next video
I'm still salty about the cam bearing
Cam? Cam who? *Men in Black mind eraser flashes*
@@FuzzyDiceProjects you sly fox-
Good job guys , I always found unless you have a really marred shaft where you Spun , or severe wear ,are going to be OK plasty gauge is good but I have used it and I’ve not used it ,never had a problem as long as I don’t see any metal to metal or severe wear on the crank or the rod service and I’ve built many engines, The out of round is something I always check that’s ,and if I’m out of round like you said more than two or ..003 or worn I’ll just go ahead and bore Usually .030
You can torque the main caps with the bearings and no crank. Then measure the bore of the main caps and subtract from the diameter of the crank for oil clearance right?
Just making sure.
Always look forward to watching you videos; you make the process look so easy. As someone what of a novice, hope to someday be able to work to the degree of precession as you do. Looking forward to next part!
It’s a good idea to install the seal and then the main That way you make sure you don’t damage it works out good that way
Love watching your vids. Also like the way you edit them and the subtle humor.
Oh shit, the legend is back. I discovered this series a few weeks ago, sit down and binge watched 15 episodes or so lol. Keep going please
He has on one building a 350 sbc.. it's a great series
Thanks to you I love the brand Pontiac, I never thought I would but your videos make me want to go out and buy one and put a supercharger on it
haha thats great that you like pontiacs but that is a Chevy engine he is building for it.
Great video series. Informative and detailed. Its oil galley, not "gallery". Unless your oil passages have miniature art works.
I have a bit of a history with that word lol. In the first Blazer engine series I called them "galleries" and many people corrected me as you did. Then I switched to "galleys" and I got even more corrections. Colloquially, both are correct as far as I'm concerned, but based on word definitions I believe "gallery" to be more correct so that's what I stuck with
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Well if they called the plug fitting a "gallery plug", you might have a case. But they don't. They are universally called "galley plugs" because they plug galleys (not gallerys). Hope this clears it up for everyone.
And your videos are outstanding and reflect a high degree of knowledge and expertise. If you ever want to do a classic Mercedes or BMW I will donate a project car up to $2000 cheers!
@@joelpalmer I have an old sbc manual, published by Chevrolet, that refers to "oil galleries". Gallery is the only way I've ever heard it referred to as.
@@funonoldwheels7150 if you look anywhere for the plugs you will see that they are called "galley plugs". Gallery is simply a misapplication of a similar sounding word. Like "irregardless" for irrespective. And Chevrolet manuals do not override the Oxford English Dictionary
"I have no idea where all that taper came from" 😰
Thanks for the upload Fuzzy can't wait to see this up and running "All good things come to those who wait literally 🤣" but we'll worth the wait 👍👍👍👍
Lets goo. I look forward to every video of this series. Keep up the great work its not going unnoticed.
I just now thought, guess I'll check for a new video.... the day it was released. The universe is surely a simulation.
Great video! Loving the bloopers at the end!
I don't know about GM engines but on a Ford 302 engine with the one piece rear main seal you have to put a thin layer of RTV on the rear main crankshaft cap matting surface before putting it in. That thin layer of RTV will keep an oil from seeping between that matting surface. I know this from experience. When I tore down my Ford 302 I got out of a Ford Explorer I noticed a very thin layer of RTV on the matting surface of the rear main cap for the crankshaft.
During the disassembly I thought I remembered you removing a small plug with an extension because it crossed paths with another journal of sorts, but I didn't see you reinstall it?
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I got all the plugs back in but I'm definitely not perfect lol. There were some for the oil filter adapter that we didn't reinstall, and a long extension was used to knock out the rear cam plug. Most of the factory ones were square drive which presented some difficulties in removing them too.
I've never messed with a big block but I know the SBC has a press-in plug deep inside the vertical oil galley for the oil pressure sending unit. You have to press it in from below before installing the rear main cap or oil won't be diverted to the filter. Not sure if that's what you're talking about or of the BBC even has one.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects I went back and watched that episode and sure enough, I was wrong. I guess I am thinking of something else. lol Oh well, sorry about that.
At least you have a power tool to start the bolts and to unscrew them. Back when I built a performance engine, I had no power tools for such things, everything was by hand.
YES YES YESSSSSSSSSSSS FINALLY MY GOD I BEEN SO ANXIOUS TO SEE MORE ON THE 454 BUILD
The amount of plug is astounding 😂
The ending bloopers were good
The suspense is killin me guy Supercharged 454!
Love your videos man keep it up!
I rebuilt a Chevy 350 and had the machine shop put all the plugs in but they missed one on the driver side head face. The hole was half covered by the head and I didn’t know until I tried to start it and spit oil everywhere. I had to pull the head back off and put it in.
When ordering all the bolts: do you just look for them in a hardware store for matching ones or do you order at the manufacturer directly so you have the exact specced ones?
What's the proper way to deal with those cylinder measurements being out of acceptable range? Take it to the machine shop and get new oversized pistons?
Cylinder roundness and all that is fine. I’m in the get larger rings camp. As long as you make 100psi per cylinder it will run perfectly. Of course the oil consumption will slightly increase but a perfectly functioning engine is in fact a perfectly functioning engine. Run it until it blows up my friend. You could get another 100k out of it as is.
I'm loving this channel and the projects! Thanks for share knowledge!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Love the outtakes on the end :D Looking forward for the nev vid :) I wish i could get some nice V8 here in europe.. best i can do is inline 6 :D
1:20 “ Is this what my dentist sees ?” Got it! 😂
If it does fail eventually you could do a sleeve job on the block
If you have bore & outside micrometers, why didn't you use them to measure your bearing clearances?
It's okay, you didn't need that cylinder anyway. Cylinders 7 and 8 are just spares.
I once had an old Chevy van that had a clapped out 305 in it. It ran on 6 cylinders most of the time, and 7 when I was really standing on it. Long live the Chevy V8! Or is that a V6.5?
On one V8 we unplugged a spark plug wire and it made it run better and cooler to help get up a steep incline. So this is just getting ahead of the game lol
@@FuzzyDiceProjects - That's hilarious! I would not have thought to do that. Kudos for the clever thinking!
Great vid Fuzzy! Thanks for doing.
I hope he checked the clearance on the thrust bearing
Any update on how the next video update is coming along?
Lol the real life struggles of trying to get that second page
I know this is not that build, and they are probably fine, and it's probably too late. But - I would seriously consider replacing the brass freeze plugs. Brass is good and what I use too, but the plugs deform easily if driven in using the tool on the ID of the plug as shown. Do it all again, but use a flat face driver or socket that closely matches the outside diameter so the driving force is only contacting on the outside edge of the plug. Trust me, it's better to spend the $25 now than after it's in the car and one pops out while you're breaking in the cam... Also might consider Indian Head shellac instead of RTV. PS - Don't throw the new brass plugs in the lake. :P
Those bearings are orgasmic holy shit
I live this series of builds
What would a bore and sleeve job run on a block like this? Also, was wondering the cost on doing that versus do a .010 over bore and new pistons? Not suggesting you do that, but am interested.
edit: Some digging I found runs $100 to $150 per cylinder. Would this be a worthwhile investment on the block for cylinder #7? Or will we find out how much that out of spec measurement actually affects the engine when you do compression testing?
Can’t wait for next video. Been following this since it started. Even though I’m a Ford bastard, I still love this stuff ❤️
Oil filter adaptor. Thread sealer?
G.m.call it controlled leakage
Is the engine just going to eat itself quickly? Seems like the bore/piston tolerances are too large, and this engine will need machine work in short order.
Ouchie!!! Those cylinder measurements sure weren't the best but being a lazy big block it should last a fair while before blowing smoke and loosing compression. Shame really cos the crank was so darned good. 👍
Man, I want a firebird. What's it like to drive? My car isn't the smoothest or quietest, but I've never owned a classic before and am not sure what to expect.
I have a 78 camaro (same overall construction) if you have good shocks and bushings and your car is in overall decent condition its actually a fun ride. They are heavier and you can feel it compared to modern cars. What i like though is you have more feedback through the wheel and gas pedal that alot of new cars are lacking. Road noise can be a bit louder too but replacing the factory sound proofing with more modern stuff can handle that too. again depending on the overall condition of the car you can have alot of squeaks and whistling and rattles. This is due to old worn out weather stripping around the doors and windows and if the hinges on the doors are worn out. F body cars (camaro/Firebird) are notorious for having floppy doors as the hinge bushings wear out and elongate the holes causing the doors to sag. Mine has good hinges but needs new weather stripping as it was poorly stored outside in a desert environment when it was younger. Im having the 305 rebuilt now too so its performance will change drastically compared to how it was factory.
@@thebusybuilder4071 Thank you! So if/when I buy one, I will really make sure to swap out ALL rubber components that I can.
What thread sealer did you use on the threaded plugs?
Well, cylinder 7 def isn't ideal, and yes a number of tolerances out of factory spec, but honestly, I do think you'll be fine. Usually one wants to add about .001-.003 additional clearance for the piston to bore with a power adder anyways (yay supercharger), and by that measure it's only cylinder 7 that really is falling out of max spec. May not be super ideal, but I have no doubt that this will be a very healthy and stout "rat" motor when your done. :-)
The bloopers🤣
Very good and thorough pre assembly. This is the key to a successful engine build. A lot of DIY’ers skip the measuring.
That said, and I know you know better but, #7 bore, cam bearings, and valves/valve job takes away from this excellent video on how to do things right.
It can be a walkthrough and a cautionary tale at the same time, right? Especially if something does end up failing, it will illustrate to myself and others why those little things are so important.
Kind of missing the point.
At this point I honestly think he doesn’t care, i mean he got it for 200 bucks, and if it breaks more content🎉, wait a minute….. HES DOING IT ON PURPOSE!!!!
Damn man! I love this channel!
Dad would say "son you're choking the hammer"
See you all in the fall for the rotating assembly video. (lol jk, jk) Great video! Looking forward to the rotating assembly video!
Sooo.... Rigid vs. Ball Hone, which is better and why??
Rigid hone is definitely the best as long as you have a good one. The stones are held parallel and they let you get cylinders sized accurately and parallel. Work for a moderate size spread of cylinders. But, they are $125+.
A three stone hone like I used for this rebuild is quick and cheap, fits a very wide range of cylinders, and can remove a lot of material with the right stones. $15-30.
Ball hone is the easiest to use but only good within a small range of cylinder diameter, and you have to get a while different hone to change grit. Can still remove a lot of material, gives the best (looking) crosshatch surface finish in my opinion. $40-80
You are missing a career as a radio DJ or voice-over artist. Videos keep getting better.
Ok, but how about this surface rust build up on (inside) block? Shoudnt wd40 prevent this from happening? How you gonna clean that up?
Fuzzy, maybe you could share that engine size sheet as a premium feature for your patrons? You need to think about growing your channel 😎👍
why use plastigauge when you have a micrometer and dial gauge?
How'd you get that camera angle at 1;20?
Hey, any update on the supra?
still wondering how long that over lapped valve will last seeing how the surface is completely altered, its not gonna last long.......
We'll just call #7 the "bewst fuze" and say you planned it that way.
Get it german tight " goodentight" lololol
You and Ronald Finger have the same narrative style.
Nice vids bro
what happened to the datsun z?
Ah, the ASMR for gearheads is back...
Been waiting a minute for this one
Nice work nice video
Did you take a grinder to the deck lol 😂