I’ll add my thanks for all the good work you have put into this gun. I get mine delivered tomorrow. I will do all of the mods, but have a question. How did you cut the threads and keep it clean enough so that the halves will still thread together? I haven’t seen anything on this. One thread I saw indicated he couldn’t find a nut in that size/thread to put on first to use as a guide and thread chaser after cutting with a hacksaw, etc. I’m sure others would like to know the best way to do this. Thanks from Virginia!
Hi John, Thanks for your kind words and you will love your CP2 for sure. For me, it is not really a challenge as I am a fitter and Turner by trade so I have done a lot of hand work. The simplest way would probably be to use that size nut as a guide however, you can saw it off with a hacksaw(use a new 24tooth blade), then use a 2nd cut straight file & a square and just square it off. Now use that same file and file a small chamfer onto the thread and you will be golden. Remember the valve material is very soft so don't be heavy handed and you'll be fine
Good video again. Grease and oils - The O-rings should be smeared with good silicone gun grease, not mineral oil/grease. Silicone for plastics and plastic to metal, but mineral for metal to metal. Molybdenum disulphide (moly) is a non-stick surface coating, it is not a true grease although it may be loaded into a mineral gun grease. Smear the O-rings before installation. I use my fingers, it's quite messy and then the grease transfers everywhere if you don't clean up. Keep everything as clean as possible, we don't want bits of hair, skin flakes, fluff or grit in the valve. The capsule seal is a soft silicone. If the collar is tightened down before installing the first capsule onto a new seal it will squash like roadkill, and not seal. I destroyed a new seal doing that, the original looked like a squashed bug too. I had to install the collar loose so the neck of an /empty/ capsule pushed through the seal onto the piercer. The tightening of the end cap rotated the capsule and tightened the collar. Successive goes further tightened the collar which holds everything in place. Do use an empty one, it takes a few goes. CO2 capsules now push tightly through the undeformed seal onto the piercer which makes a nice large hole, all gas tight. Tip - to tighten or loosen the valve body I wrap a rubber/elastic band around the parts to grip them. So not using the gas pliers or stilsons. Maximum hole in the barrel is 3.5mm for 177 and 4.3mm for 22. The holes in the breech, transfer port cylinder and valve body may be bigger but not the barrels, or the pellet may get trapped. The hole in the barrel of mine has been de-burred with a tapered reamer. The hole now fits the shank of a specific 9/64 drill (drills vary). Now that is 3.57mm but the shank of the old drill is undersize, it also fits the other untampered-with barrel, and measures 0.132-ich on the micrometer screw gauge, 3.35mm diameter. There is some slop to the fit, obviously the actual hole is larger. Measuring with a drill bit is precise, akin to using gauge wires, but the size written on it is not its diameter. A drill is designed to make a hole of certain diameter, slightly wider than its shaft. Consequently the drill will be a little smaller than the number written on it. Bear this in mind when using a drill bit to measure holes.
Hi again Tyrone. What is your opinion on how many thread count should be left? How many did you left on your gun? There are theoretically some rules to have maximum strength on threading on steel or aluminium. I cut mine of course and now I wonder :)
@@African-Budget-Pellet-GunnerThanks. And now if I want to diesel them, then what you think? Did you try it? i just found out how fun it can be, twice the power even.
I have never tried dieseling with a co2 or PCP, not sure if it would work. Except maybe if you use Vaseline, the problem is the pellet probe is in the way and I think a more runny substance will just drop into the transfer port. With a springer it has nowhere to go
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I tried it, some Vaseline. Apparently it's not possible in CO2, no air to combust. Simple as that. Pressure is probably enough but no air for fuel. Fuel would have to be air independent or so.
I unscrewed my silencer at the wrong point and the baffle parts fell out please could you educate me on it replacement of bits in the correct order 😊 thank
Cool vid....did a full mod job on my diana trailscout .22.. is a tack driver out to 40m ..almost as good as a $800 black mamba pcp I have...1/3 the cost...I an shooting around 650fps over crono...keep the vids coming....from my igloo on the mountain in Canada 🇨🇦...D
Well done Tyrone , very informative, and cannot wait to start modding my camo .22 . I think I'll go to 4.2 mm on the ports, and do the thread mod, no need for new piercer etc yet as the guns brand new . Keep the vids coming and lets see some power figures through the chrono to show your mods working , otherwise , brilliant. Greeting for Cornwall. UK
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner Did you notice a louder crack from the muzzle without silencer after the fps increase ? They are pretty loud anyway , just interested if the noise increases , I would have thought it would with the extra ooomph !
A drop or 3 of Silicon Oil will always make 'O' Rings & Seals last much longer. Just be sure none can work it's way into the gun barrel or it may Diesel for a few shots?
This might come a bit late, but silicone oil doesn't diesel. It's the mineral stuff that self-ignites under pressure. This is one of the reasons why airguns should not get mineral oil.
@@tompouce8568 that is very strange I haven't heard of a different design. How is yours different? If you have some pics you can send it to my email tyrone8511@gmail.com then I can perhaps check what is going to be the best options for you
I didn't design the valve so can't give you a definite answer but what I can tell you is that the PR900 which goes up to 200bar the valve is basically identical. The PR900 does have extra portions in the tube to keep the valve secured though so that could could be a problem as in co2 the valve is only kept in place by 2 cap screws
Very interesting tips! If I understood right you dont need anything else than replacement o-rings and a drill bit to do all of the "mods"? [All the parts are factory? Exept maybe a spring?] Nice video Sir
Basically yes with opening the valve ports you can definitely get a boost. Many people suggest putting in a lighter spring but in theory it actually won't help much. I will cover hammer mods in a separate vid
Hi @Quentin Du Plessis I managed to buy 1 locally from Wildman Ellisras. Drop me a mail and I will give you the conta t details then we can try arrange to get it to you
Tyrone ¥ Do you know that you are DA MAN when it comes to Chaser maintenance and mods! Nobody doin anything on your level bro. Thank you for the videos they are extremely helpful. Do you or anybody else on here know where to purchase the 3 o ring/seals involved with the valve? If anyone does know of a good source. Please post a link or info
Thanks for your kind words, glad you enjoyed the videos. The Chaser is a great rifle and easy to work on. For the o-rings check your automobile shops they usually ha e a variety of o-rings and even o-rings kits
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner No reasons to thank me dude - you make interesting videos and I love the subject of airguns (budget airguns). I made a FL SCAR out of my Crosman 2240 a total conversion and of course tuned everything else on it. So and now it's my turn to tune the Artemis 😆
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner you are brilliant Tyrone may I ask ? will increasing the hammer spring tension make the trigger Pull stronger? I wouldn't want that could I weaken the spring in the valve instead?
Increasing the hammer spring will increase trigger pull on this platform as the trigger sear is directly engaged to the sear. You can put a lighter spring in the valve but I highly doubt you will see any difference in fps as it is the gas pressure which is keeping the valve closed and not the valve spring
I honestly don't have a good answer for you. Unfortunately here in SA Artemis don't want to sell the parts, they want you to send the rifle to them and they will repair/ replace it for you. I was fortunate to get mine before they moved in this direction. There is a couple of places across the water though that will post it to here
Very pleased to find your good CP2 videos. Would like some advice on my CP2's loss of power. My .22 (with carbine stock and long barrel) doesn't shoot 500+fps any more. It shoots 13 grain pellets about 350 fps (3.7 fpe) and 10 grain about 420 fps. Very quiet report even without moderator. Dry fire I hear a "crack" from muzzle so there is still plenty of CO2 going through. It's not a clipping issue because I removed the moderator. I've replaced the CO2 powerlet without improvement. Breech o-ring looks OK. I cleaned the barrel with only slight improvement. No leaks - it can hold a partly used CO2 powerlet for weeks, though I prefer to remove powerlets after each use. Do you think the valve overhaul/cleaning you did might help? Any other ideas on what might be hurting the fps?
@RS A you are definitely leaking gas somewhere. Most likely your barrel o-rings, 2nd your pellet probe to barrel o-ring, tiny little o-ring which sits on the inside back of your barrel. 3rd possibility is on your transfer port. I don't think on your valve as you would hear it. The best is to get some tissue paper, tear it into small squares about 40mm by 40mm. Dry fire the rifle with the tissue over the loading zone, then over the breech where the barrel goes in and then lastly turn the gun on its side and dry fire with the tissue over the transfer port. If all of this fails then the issue could be at your hammer or hammer spring but I would start here. Also check out this video th-cam.com/video/nrRdkSPXkB4/w-d-xo.html
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I am in the US (Florida). I and several others have CP2/Chasers and 2240 carbines to dispatch cane toads which are a large invasive species of toad here. They exude a toxin which can quickly kill pets and wildlife. A couple of years ago we'd regularly get 100 on a night hunt. These days we get just a few on each hunt because we've knocked the numbers way down with toad and tadpole removals. Never heard of or thought about the tissue paper idea. Nice idea. But I just tried it without the tissue paper moving. I dry fired with tissue paper over the closed bolt and gun vertical and then over the gun turned bolt side up with tissue over the bolt channel and then with the gun turned on its other side with tissue over the gap where you can see the powerlet. Loud report (no moderator) each time. But when there is a pellet, sound is very soft. So I also tried the 3 shot tissue paper test with pellets as well. No movement of the tissue. If you are pretty sure it is an o-ring issue, do you know the sizes of the o-rings I could replace?
Sounds like you don't have a leak then else there would of been movement on the tissue. The other possibility is that the hammer spring is damaged or was left cocking for a long time. Let's check that and then we can take the next steps
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I disassembled the gun. The spring is straight and is 70 mm long in resting position. The hammer looks fine though it had a lot of oil on it .... probably from the drop of Pelgunoil we put on the tip of each powerlet when it is inserted. I did not disassemble the valve (yet) but it looked good on the outside. Only notable was how short the valve stem is coming out from the end of the valve - about 3 mm or less - much shorter than the valve stem exiting the valve on a Crosman 2240. Transfer port and all visible o-rings look good.
Dear Tyrone, thanks once more for the great effort and care you put into your vids, explaining in awesome detail! I bought two CP2s and noticed that in one of those, the transfer port was quite narrow around 1mm while the other was almost 4mm out of the box. I am situated in continental Europe, so both have to follow the max. 7 Joule output regulations. Any idea how they could manage that and does it make sense to drill out the transfer port to begin with? I should say that the valve and the barrel breach are the same 3.5mm on both guns and I bouth them new from a licensed trader. Thanks very much in advance for your thoughts! Cheers
The transfer port is usually 3.5mm standard but the secret to getting more or less fps is the transfer port, breech and barrel all need to match. If you have a 1mm transfer port and a 3.5mm breech and barrel you will still only get gas of the 1mm. What some manufacturers also do is slightly misalign the barrel and Transfer port and this will also decrease fps
@Tyrone Mclaren thank you so much for your swift reply! I see, I checked both CP2s and the barrels align well, that's why I was confused as to the significantly different transfer ports... I guess the only solution will be to compare the two via a chrony to see what fps they produce. Will let you know if I learn anything new 😊👍
I’ll add my thanks for all the good work you have put into this gun. I get mine delivered tomorrow. I will do all of the mods, but have a question. How did you cut the threads and keep it clean enough so that the halves will still thread together? I haven’t seen anything on this. One thread I saw indicated he couldn’t find a nut in that size/thread to put on first to use as a guide and thread chaser after cutting with a hacksaw, etc. I’m sure others would like to know the best way to do this. Thanks from Virginia!
Hi John, Thanks for your kind words and you will love your CP2 for sure. For me, it is not really a challenge as I am a fitter and Turner by trade so I have done a lot of hand work. The simplest way would probably be to use that size nut as a guide however, you can saw it off with a hacksaw(use a new 24tooth blade), then use a 2nd cut straight file & a square and just square it off. Now use that same file and file a small chamfer onto the thread and you will be golden. Remember the valve material is very soft so don't be heavy handed and you'll be fine
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner Thanks so much for your quick reply! I'll be doing it for sure
Cool, remember with the mods you will loose shot count so perhaps start with the reversible mods and see if you are happy
Good video again.
Grease and oils - The O-rings should be smeared with good silicone gun grease, not mineral oil/grease. Silicone for plastics and plastic to metal, but mineral for metal to metal. Molybdenum disulphide (moly) is a non-stick surface coating, it is not a true grease although it may be loaded into a mineral gun grease.
Smear the O-rings before installation. I use my fingers, it's quite messy and then the grease transfers everywhere if you don't clean up.
Keep everything as clean as possible, we don't want bits of hair, skin flakes, fluff or grit in the valve.
The capsule seal is a soft silicone. If the collar is tightened down before installing the first capsule onto a new seal it will squash like roadkill, and not seal. I destroyed a new seal doing that, the original looked like a squashed bug too. I had to install the collar loose so the neck of an /empty/ capsule pushed through the seal onto the piercer. The tightening of the end cap rotated the capsule and tightened the collar. Successive goes further tightened the collar which holds everything in place. Do use an empty one, it takes a few goes. CO2 capsules now push tightly through the undeformed seal onto the piercer which makes a nice large hole, all gas tight.
Tip - to tighten or loosen the valve body I wrap a rubber/elastic band around the parts to grip them. So not using the gas pliers or stilsons.
Maximum hole in the barrel is 3.5mm for 177 and 4.3mm for 22.
The holes in the breech, transfer port cylinder and valve body may be bigger but not the barrels, or the pellet may get trapped.
The hole in the barrel of mine has been de-burred with a tapered reamer. The hole now fits the shank of a specific 9/64 drill (drills vary). Now that is 3.57mm but the shank of the old drill is undersize, it also fits the other untampered-with barrel, and measures 0.132-ich on the micrometer screw gauge, 3.35mm diameter. There is some slop to the fit, obviously the actual hole is larger. Measuring with a drill bit is precise, akin to using gauge wires, but the size written on it is not its diameter. A drill is designed to make a hole of certain diameter, slightly wider than its shaft. Consequently the drill will be a little smaller than the number written on it. Bear this in mind when using a drill bit to measure holes.
Hi again Tyrone. What is your opinion on how many thread count should be left? How many did you left on your gun? There are theoretically some rules to have maximum strength on threading on steel or aluminium. I cut mine of course and now I wonder :)
I would say if you have half of the thread left that would be sufficient
@@African-Budget-Pellet-GunnerThanks. And now if I want to diesel them, then what you think? Did you try it? i just found out how fun it can be, twice the power even.
I have never tried dieseling with a co2 or PCP, not sure if it would work. Except maybe if you use Vaseline, the problem is the pellet probe is in the way and I think a more runny substance will just drop into the transfer port. With a springer it has nowhere to go
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I tried it, some Vaseline. Apparently it's not possible in CO2, no air to combust. Simple as that. Pressure is probably enough but no air for fuel. Fuel would have to be air independent or so.
I thought as much, but now you know
I unscrewed my silencer at the wrong point and the baffle parts fell out please could you educate me on it replacement of bits in the correct order 😊 thank
Sure I should be able to assist. It is the big spacer(tube) then baffle then the short spacers and baffles until the front of the silencer
Cool vid....did a full mod job on my diana trailscout .22.. is a tack driver out to 40m ..almost as good as a $800 black mamba pcp I have...1/3 the cost...I an shooting around 650fps over crono...keep the vids coming....from my igloo on the mountain in Canada 🇨🇦...D
@Darren MANNING Thanks so much, yes the trailscout is very similar to the CR600 and agree these can be super accurate
Well done Tyrone , very informative, and cannot wait to start modding my camo .22 . I think I'll go to 4.2 mm on the ports, and do the thread mod, no need for new piercer etc yet as the guns brand new . Keep the vids coming and lets see some power figures through the chrono to show your mods working , otherwise , brilliant. Greeting for Cornwall. UK
@Mister Lister glad you enjoyed it and looking forward to hearing the results of your mods.
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner Did you notice a louder crack from the muzzle without silencer after the fps increase ? They are pretty loud anyway , just interested if the noise increases , I would have thought it would with the extra ooomph !
I haven't shot this rifle without a silencer for a very long time would need to try it out
Well done and quite informative!
@Alan Eisenberg Thanks for your kind words glad you enjoyed it
Excellent break down and clear explanation my friend.
@Bob Andrews Thanks for your kind words and really glad you enjoyed it
A drop or 3 of Silicon Oil will always make 'O' Rings & Seals last much longer. Just be sure none can work it's way into the gun barrel or it may Diesel for a few shots?
Yes, silicone oil and seals is always a good idea. I must say I haven't experienced dieseling in any of my co2 rifles mainly in springers
Дизель в со2 :)? Глупость какая. А, силикон в пневматике, нужная вещь...
This might come a bit late, but silicone oil doesn't diesel. It's the mineral stuff that self-ignites under pressure. This is one of the reasons why airguns should not get mineral oil.
c'est pas une valve de CP2
Yes, this is a CP2 valve
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner ok, mais la mienne est différente de conception
@@tompouce8568 that is very strange I haven't heard of a different design. How is yours different? If you have some pics you can send it to my email tyrone8511@gmail.com then I can perhaps check what is going to be the best options for you
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner , у него, просто разного цвета половины корпуса клапана, или он полностью другого цвета :). Думаю, дядя дилетант...
Интересно, при переделке в рср, этот клапан выдержит 150-180 bar? Если в курсе, ответьте...
I didn't design the valve so can't give you a definite answer but what I can tell you is that the PR900 which goes up to 200bar the valve is basically identical. The PR900 does have extra portions in the tube to keep the valve secured though so that could could be a problem as in co2 the valve is only kept in place by 2 cap screws
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner , благодарю. Буду экспериментировать...
Ace
Thanks Michael glad you enjoyed it
Very interesting tips!
If I understood right you dont need anything else than replacement o-rings and a drill bit to do all of the "mods"?
[All the parts are factory? Exept maybe a spring?]
Nice video Sir
Basically yes with opening the valve ports you can definitely get a boost. Many people suggest putting in a lighter spring but in theory it actually won't help much. I will cover hammer mods in a separate vid
Great vid I thing all these mods are going to work on my crossman 2240 too Thanks from GB
Very good video as always.Were can we buy valve piering pin.I tried couple places but no luck. Keep up the good works .Thanks a million
Hi @Quentin Du Plessis I managed to buy 1 locally from Wildman Ellisras. Drop me a mail and I will give you the conta t details then we can try arrange to get it to you
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner will do thanks so much
Tyrone ¥ Do you know that you are DA MAN when it comes to Chaser maintenance and mods! Nobody doin anything on your level bro. Thank you for the videos they are extremely helpful. Do you or anybody else on here know where to purchase the 3 o ring/seals involved with the valve? If anyone does know of a good source. Please post a link or info
Thanks for your kind words, glad you enjoyed the videos. The Chaser is a great rifle and easy to work on. For the o-rings check your automobile shops they usually ha e a variety of o-rings and even o-rings kits
You could also enlarge the air chamber itself with the help of a lathe so that more air fits into the air reservoir. 😉
Yes, also by removing part of the threads on the male half you can also increase the capacity. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment
It sounds like you're in for way too much fun. Enjoy and keep us posted on your progress
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner No reasons to thank me dude - you make interesting videos and I love the subject of airguns (budget airguns). I made a FL SCAR out of my Crosman 2240 a total conversion and of course tuned everything else on it. So and now it's my turn to tune the Artemis 😆
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner you are brilliant Tyrone may I ask ? will increasing the hammer spring tension make the trigger Pull stronger? I wouldn't want that could I weaken the spring in the valve instead?
Increasing the hammer spring will increase trigger pull on this platform as the trigger sear is directly engaged to the sear. You can put a lighter spring in the valve but I highly doubt you will see any difference in fps as it is the gas pressure which is keeping the valve closed and not the valve spring
Tyrone, you will be my hero if you could post the link for the puncher valve!!!
@Johann Wessels you mean where to buy the puncture valve in South Africa?
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner yep
I honestly don't have a good answer for you. Unfortunately here in SA Artemis don't want to sell the parts, they want you to send the rifle to them and they will repair/ replace it for you. I was fortunate to get mine before they moved in this direction. There is a couple of places across the water though that will post it to here
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner damnit 😞
My sister is coming for a visit from the UK soon.. I'll ask her if she can find one..
thanks Tyrone
The best options are trrobb.com and Bagnall & Kirkwood spare parts
Hi buddy,I dont see the o ring on the valve?
There is definitely an o-ring where the 2 halves join together. Probably just difficult to see because of the colours
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner Thanks mate,we use the same barber!
Sounds good, only so many perfect heads😉
Very pleased to find your good CP2 videos. Would like some advice on my CP2's loss of power. My .22 (with carbine stock and long barrel) doesn't shoot 500+fps any more. It shoots 13 grain pellets about 350 fps (3.7 fpe) and 10 grain about 420 fps. Very quiet report even without moderator. Dry fire I hear a "crack" from muzzle so there is still plenty of CO2 going through. It's not a clipping issue because I removed the moderator. I've replaced the CO2 powerlet without improvement. Breech o-ring looks OK. I cleaned the barrel with only slight improvement. No leaks - it can hold a partly used CO2 powerlet for weeks, though I prefer to remove powerlets after each use.
Do you think the valve overhaul/cleaning you did might help? Any other ideas on what might be hurting the fps?
@RS A you are definitely leaking gas somewhere. Most likely your barrel o-rings, 2nd your pellet probe to barrel o-ring, tiny little o-ring which sits on the inside back of your barrel. 3rd possibility is on your transfer port. I don't think on your valve as you would hear it. The best is to get some tissue paper, tear it into small squares about 40mm by 40mm. Dry fire the rifle with the tissue over the loading zone, then over the breech where the barrel goes in and then lastly turn the gun on its side and dry fire with the tissue over the transfer port. If all of this fails then the issue could be at your hammer or hammer spring but I would start here. Also check out this video th-cam.com/video/nrRdkSPXkB4/w-d-xo.html
Are you living in South Africa?
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I am in the US (Florida). I and several others have CP2/Chasers and 2240 carbines to dispatch cane toads which are a large invasive species of toad here. They exude a toxin which can quickly kill pets and wildlife. A couple of years ago we'd regularly get 100 on a night hunt. These days we get just a few on each hunt because we've knocked the numbers way down with toad and tadpole removals.
Never heard of or thought about the tissue paper idea. Nice idea. But I just tried it without the tissue paper moving. I dry fired with tissue paper over the closed bolt and gun vertical and then over the gun turned bolt side up with tissue over the bolt channel and then with the gun turned on its other side with tissue over the gap where you can see the powerlet. Loud report (no moderator) each time. But when there is a pellet, sound is very soft. So I also tried the 3 shot tissue paper test with pellets as well. No movement of the tissue.
If you are pretty sure it is an o-ring issue, do you know the sizes of the o-rings I could replace?
Sounds like you don't have a leak then else there would of been movement on the tissue. The other possibility is that the hammer spring is damaged or was left cocking for a long time. Let's check that and then we can take the next steps
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I disassembled the gun. The spring is straight and is 70 mm long in resting position. The hammer looks fine though it had a lot of oil on it .... probably from the drop of Pelgunoil we put on the tip of each powerlet when it is inserted. I did not disassemble the valve (yet) but it looked good on the outside. Only notable was how short the valve stem is coming out from the end of the valve - about 3 mm or less - much shorter than the valve stem exiting the valve on a Crosman 2240. Transfer port and all visible o-rings look good.
Dear Tyrone, thanks once more for the great effort and care you put into your vids, explaining in awesome detail! I bought two CP2s and noticed that in one of those, the transfer port was quite narrow around 1mm while the other was almost 4mm out of the box. I am situated in continental Europe, so both have to follow the max. 7 Joule output regulations. Any idea how they could manage that and does it make sense to drill out the transfer port to begin with? I should say that the valve and the barrel breach are the same 3.5mm on both guns and I bouth them new from a licensed trader. Thanks very much in advance for your thoughts! Cheers
The transfer port is usually 3.5mm standard but the secret to getting more or less fps is the transfer port, breech and barrel all need to match. If you have a 1mm transfer port and a 3.5mm breech and barrel you will still only get gas of the 1mm. What some manufacturers also do is slightly misalign the barrel and Transfer port and this will also decrease fps
@Tyrone Mclaren thank you so much for your swift reply! I see, I checked both CP2s and the barrels align well, that's why I was confused as to the significantly different transfer ports... I guess the only solution will be to compare the two via a chrony to see what fps they produce. Will let you know if I learn anything new 😊👍
Thanks I look forward to seeing your results