Click HERE for the z36 front pads for ram 1500 amzn.to/3JogHjy Click HERE for brand new front brake rotors for ram 1500 amzn.to/3JnYP8y Click HERE for the z36 rear brake pads for ram 1500 amzn.to/346ohiL Click HERE for brand new rear brake rotors for ram 1500 amzn.to/3HmgcVA
I put a set if the K2163-36,Z36 Rotors and pads on the front of my 2014 1500, and noticed a huge difference in braking feel and almost no dust in normal conditions. I am 100% sold on these as the best choice for me on my vehicles going forward. I am a huge fan of their coated slotted and drilled rotors too. After 18 months, 1.5 winters, and about 10,000 miles they still look like new. Pros: - Low dust - Excellent braking feel and performance - Coated rotors Cons: - Nothing? Price was very fair compared to OEM and OEM equivalent equipment I am still running Ram OEM rotors and pads on the rear, as they just wont wear out! heh As soon as they do, I am replacing with a full kit of Power Stop slotted and drilled rears and matching pads. Very impressed with Power Stop kit...
I went with the Z23 kit on my 2009 4x2 1500 because I wanted the vented/slotted/drilled rotors plus the red calipers. I'm running 20in SRT wheels, so the kit looks fantastic since the wheel is so open. While the Z23 kit doesn't have the performance of the other Powerstop kits, it's still head and shoulders above the OEM stuff. You're completely right that while you do still get some dust, it's not caked on like the dust from the OEM pads.
I am running Powerstop pads and rotors em with the carbon fiber ceramic mix. The full carbon ones sounded like a school bus when breaking. So far, the brakes are working great for 4,000 miles
Cool! Have a set of Powerstop slotted/drilled rotors and their 36 series "extreme" brake pads sitting in the box new to put on either my Chrysler 300C or my Challenger R/T, both cars use the same brakes. Thanks for the video update, man!
So how is breaking with z36 vs the z17 and stock now after you have had it a while? I’m going from stock front and rear on my 1990 k1500 400,00 miles. Original rear drum/shoes and 2 or 3 sets of generic shop shoes. Just got a full z17 front rear kit with new rotors, drums, springs, calipers, axels and front wheel hub assemblies. Thinking when I install all of this I should just get some z36 shoes and pads for the z17 front and rear kit?
Awesome J🤳《☆》Nice upgrade Brother👍✔I went with slotted rotors & ceramic pads on my Dakota a few years ago. Braking is better than stock Dakota rotors with little to no brake dust. So far no warping but I'm not towing cross country either🖖🤓🏈
Hey john.. nice to see you with a video up !! I’ve been wondering when ! We’re these miles on the new pad with jus the truck itself ? No towing I’d the trailer with them yet ? Any luck finding a place yet? Hope you had a good Christmas!! When will you be doing another live stream ? Miss seeing you in the garage working seems weird lol hopefully soon bro 👍
I just bought the whole set of the z36 with the slotted and drilled rotors. What paint did you use on the rotor? Also surprised to see you still running the SR-A’s. I never had good luck with them lasting or gripping very well on either of my rams.
The SR-As caught my attention too. I thought I was doing good with them for a while. But I came back from a vacation, just the wife and I in the truck, and I couldn’t keep pressure in my front passenger tire. I had multiple bands break in the tread and I had a bulge worn to the bands. Tired only had 25k on them. Put a set of Michelins on it and I’ll never run Goodyear again.
@@Blb573 yeah I won’t touch Goodyears anymore. I’ve got about 20k on some Nitto Terra Grapplers and they don’t even show signs of wear. The haul good too.
🤔🤔 I need some good pads for my 93 Mustang with the Cadillac Brembo brake swap. They have double bleeders one on each side. Does HELLKOTA have that or the Viper set ups
@@BoostedMotorsports I have never done them before I have always had single bleeders on all my calipers. I'll have to figure out what sequence to bleed them in 😂😂😂
I have the Z23's on my Eclipse and after seeing the extra stopping force they have I've placed an order for the Z36's. Of course their on back order but soon. Hopefully. 🤣
I have the extremes z36 on my 2500 and I get hardly any brake dust. I towed my camper on a 1,000 mile round trip and didn’t have any brake dust on my front wheels
No the rotors were NOT warped! They had hard and soft spots in them. This is common with the newer semi metallic pads. Ventilated rotors no not warp unless they have been damaged in an accident or dropped.
@@514aam obviously you haven’t put a dial indicator on any as i have many many times when customers complained about brake pulsation. Extremely few were warped more than a couple thousandths! Rear rotors on the other hand do warp a little but generally won’t feel that in the brake pedal or feel the car shimmy. Only about 30% of the braking power comes from the rear anyway. I’ve turned plenty of rotors that makes on think they are warped due to uneven cuts around the perimeter but when you measure its the same depth of cut on the same degree all the way around. So i started measuring at the hub only to find it wasn’t perfectly centered on the brake lathe. After doing a much better job cleaning the rust off the hub i found extremely few ventilated rotors had any warp at all!
I worked at a shop for a few years and has plenty of cars that had unacceptable runout on them with a caliper measuring the rotors so yes they do warp lol
@@MineZilla123 I’m always amazed at people. Fact! All calipers float for a reason! They float because even when a car or motorcycle is brand new there is a certain amount of what you call runout. The fact is if you measure both sides of the rotor the amount of runout is exactly the same on both sides. Meaning the rotor is in fact not warped at all. Even if the rotor was warped say .020 the float in the caliper compensates for it hence why they float. Next time you think a rotor is warped try measuring with a dial indicator on both sides at the same time. You will find out the vast majority of the time the rotor is NOT the same thickness around the perimeter. Warped rotors do not cause brake pulsation which is what people complain about and think the rotors are warped when in fact they are not. The most common reason for pulsation is varying hardness of the rotor due to work hardening of the cast iron in the rotor and also differential hardiness from pads being mostly metallic. Very rarely are vented rotors warped!
@@grizmanmyers1944 definitely had runout with a dial indicator on both sides be different. And not only that, when you cut them you can Cleary see the the high low spots on either side where they would need a few passes to get to finely cut straight, and we had a brand new rotor cutting machine setup with proper adapters and used the dial indicator to setup straight to make sure. Yes good quality rotors don't warp hardly at all. But not all rotors are good quality. I worked at a chrysler, dodge, jeep dealership. And the oem fiat/chrysler rotors they put on jeep renegades are horrible, never seen so many rotors warp or get grooved up. Few other models I've seen it happen to as well. Yes you are right that most good vented rotors won't warp, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen once in a while. And yes, I am well aware you have to make sure the hub is clean off rust and has no runout, as like you said most of the time it's not actually a warped rotor but buildup of rust or runout in the hub that's actually causing the rotor to appear like it has runout. So that's not what I mean. I have used a dial indicator to properly measure both sides. Like I said, just because it doesn't happen commonly doesn't mean it's impossible to happen. And not all rotors are vented, lots of rear rotors are not, or if you go with very cheap Chinese crap rotors. Moral is buy quality parts and you won't have to worry 😉
I'm not sure if I'm right on this but I think if the rotors warp one's and then you have them cut they won't warp again. Does everyone agree or maybe I could be wrong. Please comment your opinion. Or a like if you think I might be right. And at least some new rotors and drums I've gotten they wore warped from factory. And trust me the surface on the wheel hubby's wore clean.
Click HERE for the z36 front pads for ram 1500
amzn.to/3JogHjy
Click HERE for brand new front brake rotors for ram 1500
amzn.to/3JnYP8y
Click HERE for the z36 rear brake pads for ram 1500
amzn.to/346ohiL
Click HERE for brand new rear brake rotors for ram 1500
amzn.to/3HmgcVA
I put a set if the K2163-36,Z36 Rotors and pads on the front of my 2014 1500, and noticed a huge difference in braking feel and almost no dust in normal conditions. I am 100% sold on these as the best choice for me on my vehicles going forward. I am a huge fan of their coated slotted and drilled rotors too. After 18 months, 1.5 winters, and about 10,000 miles they still look like new.
Pros:
- Low dust
- Excellent braking feel and performance
- Coated rotors
Cons:
- Nothing?
Price was very fair compared to OEM and OEM equivalent equipment
I am still running Ram OEM rotors and pads on the rear, as they just wont wear out! heh As soon as they do, I am replacing with a full kit of Power Stop slotted and drilled rears and matching pads.
Very impressed with Power Stop kit...
Well said Greg! Very reasonably priced I agree and low dust and good stopping you can’t go wrong 💪
I went with the Z23 kit on my 2009 4x2 1500 because I wanted the vented/slotted/drilled rotors plus the red calipers. I'm running 20in SRT wheels, so the kit looks fantastic since the wheel is so open. While the Z23 kit doesn't have the performance of the other Powerstop kits, it's still head and shoulders above the OEM stuff. You're completely right that while you do still get some dust, it's not caked on like the dust from the OEM pads.
I am running Powerstop pads and rotors em with the carbon fiber ceramic mix. The full carbon ones sounded like a school bus when breaking. So far, the brakes are working great for 4,000 miles
Yeah these are silent! Heard the z36 is better for heavy vehicles and towing too!
Cool! Have a set of Powerstop slotted/drilled rotors and their 36 series "extreme" brake pads sitting in the box new to put on either my Chrysler 300C or my Challenger R/T, both cars use the same brakes.
Thanks for the video update, man!
They are awesome you’ll love ‘em!
So how is breaking with z36 vs the z17 and stock now after you have had it a while? I’m going from stock front and rear on my 1990 k1500 400,00 miles. Original rear drum/shoes and 2 or 3 sets of generic shop shoes. Just got a full z17 front rear kit with new rotors, drums, springs, calipers, axels and front wheel hub assemblies. Thinking when I install all of this I should just get some z36 shoes and pads for the z17 front and rear kit?
Love the videos brother keep up the hard work homeboy!!! Happy New Year John!!!
I got them for my power wagon,very good pad and low dust
I'm using the Z36 on the Durango, good choice and certainly fairly low dust.
Heck yeah!
I have these on my Ram. They are really good. too good at times.
Full kit going on in 2 days, stoked.
You’ll love em! Super happy with it
@@BoostedMotorsports I’m just glad it’ll keep the gloss black 20x12s cleaner than oem junk
Awesome J🤳《☆》Nice upgrade Brother👍✔I went with slotted rotors & ceramic pads on my Dakota a few years ago. Braking is better than stock Dakota rotors with little to no brake dust. So far no warping but I'm not towing cross country either🖖🤓🏈
Yeah these Powerstop pads are a game changer though! I the ceramics on my viper and Dakota still make a ton of dust compared to these!
You are almost at 💯 k‼️
Almost! 💪🤘
Hey john.. nice to see you with a video up !! I’ve been wondering when ! We’re these miles on the new pad with jus the truck itself ? No towing I’d the trailer with them yet ? Any luck finding a place yet? Hope you had a good Christmas!! When will you be doing another live stream ? Miss seeing you in the garage working seems weird lol hopefully soon bro 👍
Thanks Darren. I’ll be posting an update soon. It’s been an interesting couple weeks…
Do you have experience with the power stop rotors?
I don’t. A good solid rotor is fine for me. It’s not a race car lol
I just bought the whole set of the z36 with the slotted and drilled rotors. What paint did you use on the rotor? Also surprised to see you still running the SR-A’s. I never had good luck with them lasting or gripping very well on either of my rams.
The SR-As caught my attention too. I thought I was doing good with them for a while. But I came back from a vacation, just the wife and I in the truck, and I couldn’t keep pressure in my front passenger tire. I had multiple bands break in the tread and I had a bulge worn to the bands. Tired only had 25k on them. Put a set of Michelins on it and I’ll never run Goodyear again.
@@Blb573 yeah I won’t touch Goodyears anymore. I’ve got about 20k on some Nitto Terra Grapplers and they don’t even show signs of wear. The haul good too.
Thanks for the update video and the info on the brake pads
John, what's going on moving wise?
I’ll be posting an update soon!
Will this fit on 17" wheels?
🤔🤔 I need some good pads for my 93 Mustang with the Cadillac Brembo brake swap. They have double bleeders one on each side. Does HELLKOTA have that or the Viper set ups
Yup the Brembo calipers on the viper and Dakota have dual bleeders 🤘
@@BoostedMotorsports I have never done them before I have always had single bleeders on all my calipers. I'll have to figure out what sequence to bleed them in 😂😂😂
Did you stick with the same rotor or did you go with a coated brake rotor?
I have the Z23's on my Eclipse and after seeing the extra stopping force they have I've placed an order for the Z36's. Of course their on back order but soon. Hopefully. 🤣
Yeah these z36 are definitely a good choice! I love them so far! I want to swap my rear pads!
I'm more curious how the hell you are getting 26 mpg? I just did 1000 Miles in my 2018, and got 17.5. Tips? Upgrades? Lol
Eco diesel 💪
I Only buy/use Power Stop Extreme z36 pads" Best Stopping Power!"
Nice video. Thanks!
Nice 👍 looking awesome brother 👍💯🙌🇺🇸
Thanks man!
@@BoostedMotorsports I hope you had a good holiday brother have you made a choice on the house yet
I have the extremes z36 on my 2500 and I get hardly any brake dust. I towed my camper on a 1,000 mile round trip and didn’t have any brake dust on my front wheels
That’s awesome they are working for you too 💪
glad they don't produce so much break dust ... full carbon fiber seems lit
Yeah it’s way better than regular pads hands down!
Highway driving doesn’t really produce the stop and go dust. Imho
Can’t stand the sponge brake pedal feeling
Who said it was all highway? Lots of city stop and go on these miles of the course of 2 weeks
👑
🤘🤘🤘
No the rotors were NOT warped! They had hard and soft spots in them. This is common with the newer semi metallic pads. Ventilated rotors no not warp unless they have been damaged in an accident or dropped.
Yes they do warp, it's very normal and common, unless you drive like a grandma, in that case they wont wrap.
@@514aam obviously you haven’t put a dial indicator on any as i have many many times when customers complained about brake pulsation. Extremely few were warped more than a couple thousandths! Rear rotors on the other hand do warp a little but generally won’t feel that in the brake pedal or feel the car shimmy. Only about 30% of the braking power comes from the rear anyway. I’ve turned plenty of rotors that makes on think they are warped due to uneven cuts around the perimeter but when you measure its the same depth of cut on the same degree all the way around. So i started measuring at the hub only to find it wasn’t perfectly centered on the brake lathe. After doing a much better job cleaning the rust off the hub i found extremely few ventilated rotors had any warp at all!
I worked at a shop for a few years and has plenty of cars that had unacceptable runout on them with a caliper measuring the rotors so yes they do warp lol
@@MineZilla123 I’m always amazed at people. Fact! All calipers float for a reason! They float because even when a car or motorcycle is brand new there is a certain amount of what you call runout. The fact is if you measure both sides of the rotor the amount of runout is exactly the same on both sides. Meaning the rotor is in fact not warped at all. Even if the rotor was warped say .020 the float in the caliper compensates for it hence why they float. Next time you think a rotor is warped try measuring with a dial indicator on both sides at the same time. You will find out the vast majority of the time the rotor is NOT the same thickness around the perimeter. Warped rotors do not cause brake pulsation which is what people complain about and think the rotors are warped when in fact they are not. The most common reason for pulsation is varying hardness of the rotor due to work hardening of the cast iron in the rotor and also differential hardiness from pads being mostly metallic. Very rarely are vented rotors warped!
@@grizmanmyers1944 definitely had runout with a dial indicator on both sides be different. And not only that, when you cut them you can Cleary see the the high low spots on either side where they would need a few passes to get to finely cut straight, and we had a brand new rotor cutting machine setup with proper adapters and used the dial indicator to setup straight to make sure. Yes good quality rotors don't warp hardly at all. But not all rotors are good quality. I worked at a chrysler, dodge, jeep dealership. And the oem fiat/chrysler rotors they put on jeep renegades are horrible, never seen so many rotors warp or get grooved up. Few other models I've seen it happen to as well. Yes you are right that most good vented rotors won't warp, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen once in a while. And yes, I am well aware you have to make sure the hub is clean off rust and has no runout, as like you said most of the time it's not actually a warped rotor but buildup of rust or runout in the hub that's actually causing the rotor to appear like it has runout. So that's not what I mean. I have used a dial indicator to properly measure both sides. Like I said, just because it doesn't happen commonly doesn't mean it's impossible to happen. And not all rotors are vented, lots of rear rotors are not, or if you go with very cheap Chinese crap rotors. Moral is buy quality parts and you won't have to worry 😉
Just put Z17 ceramic on my Rav4. Says Low dust.. ... We shall see
How did you make out with those pads? I have set in cart but looking at reviews lol.
@@66cotter they work fine. So far no dust. No noises. Xar stops. Cant really say anything bad about them
@@qpwoeiruty850 awesome thanks
I'm not sure if I'm right on this but I think if the rotors warp one's and then you have them cut they won't warp again. Does everyone agree or maybe I could be wrong. Please comment your opinion. Or a like if you think I might be right. And at least some new rotors and drums I've gotten they wore warped from factory. And trust me the surface on the wheel hubby's wore clean.