I installed the same rotors and pads. My biggest concern is the brake surface rusting. But the brake surface rusted, pitted and completely wore out a set of ceramic brake pads in 11 months/9,000 miles. I'm just looking for a rotor with better rust resistance in the metal itself, not a coating on top. Super bummed with PowerStop.
How did these hold up for you? I’m planning on installing these on my 2019 Ford Transit Connect. I don’t think I need the kit above this one the Z23 for a Transit Connect so I’m interested in how these are
For safety sake use a jack stand to hold up the car. That hydralic jack could fail and down comes your car. The fact one pad wore down to the bare metal means your caliper is hanging up. At 2:17 that slide pin needs lubricating. That's your problem. You should have even wear bwtn both pads. You also didn't lube the contact points of the brake pads that sit in the caliper.
Great video. I would recommend not double wrenching the ratcheting wrench though, not sure how much pressure the mechanism will take. Im interested in the brake coating.
You could leave top or bottom bolt in place and rotate the caliper off of the rotor after collapsing the piston in the caliper and after you remove some of the brake fluid out of the brake master with a turkey baster. I use a C-clamp and an old brake shoe to push the piston in. You might want to clean any rust and chunks of rust between the caliper and hub. So she sits nice and flat no vibration.
I installed the same rotors and pads. My biggest concern is the brake surface rusting. But the brake surface rusted, pitted and completely wore out a set of ceramic brake pads in 11 months/9,000 miles. I'm just looking for a rotor with better rust resistance in the metal itself, not a coating on top. Super bummed with PowerStop.
How did these hold up for you? I’m planning on installing these on my 2019 Ford Transit Connect. I don’t think I need the kit above this one the Z23 for a Transit Connect so I’m interested in how these are
For safety sake use a jack stand to hold up the car. That hydralic jack could fail and down comes your car. The fact one pad wore down to the bare metal means your caliper is hanging up. At 2:17 that slide pin needs lubricating. That's your problem. You should have even wear bwtn both pads. You also didn't lube the contact points of the brake pads that sit in the caliper.
Great video. I would recommend not double wrenching the ratcheting wrench though, not sure how much pressure the mechanism will take. Im interested in the brake coating.
One of the best and direct videos on TH-cam
Thanks
A1 Auto has an excellent video, much better than this.
You could leave top or bottom bolt in place and rotate the caliper off of the rotor after collapsing the piston in the caliper and after you remove some of the brake fluid out of the brake master with a turkey baster. I use a C-clamp and an old brake shoe to push the piston in.
You might want to clean any rust and chunks of rust between the caliper and hub. So she sits nice and flat no vibration.
Put a piece of wood between the jack and bottom of car. Steel on steel slides well.
how are the rotors and pads performing now?
Is both front and back pad of rear breaks are same ? Some have ears that it can growls l where it goes Z17 pads doesn’t have ears. Thanks
Which pad is front and which one isn’t back ? Thanks
wow, great videographer!
Would u buy again
The “rotators” ????
lmao
potatoes
Forgot to open the Brake fluid cap for pressure release. Atleast thats how I was taught and makes sense