@@TheRabbitryCenter thanks for the reminder! I’ve thought about getting a shield. They’ve been hard to come by in my area, which is probably why I forgot about them. I will definitely look again!
What do you recommend to put on the door openings for protection for you & your bunnies? I put soft rubber around the openings but some of my rabbits are chewing them off! Thanks!
36x24 is good for reaching to the back of your cage easily. Here’s a video on cage space for rabbits th-cam.com/video/_VayAwnzmPs/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
i get them online from our storefront but TSC should carry them too Check out this list HUTCHES/CAGES from therabbitrycenter www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter/list/1JX4S4TJ49ZOR?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_aipsflist_aipsftherabbitrycenter_E1HE2WNAQ3AVT3R4M0SN&language=en_US
All the tools are in the description if you click see more Here's a link www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter/list/1JX4S4TJ49ZOR?linkCode=spc&tag=therabbitryce-20&domainId=influencer&asc_contentid=amzn1.ideas.1JX4S4TJ49ZOR
You have different options the more you buy the better deal you get but the rolls available in our storefront approximately 10 to 12 depending on how big you go. Certain cage wire like cage- floor-bottom, you’ll have to buy additional rolls If you don’t buy a lot of it
Hi, I was wondering if I could get your opinion on expanded metal for the flooring of a rabbit cage. I already have some if is the smaller size diamond pattern. Wondering how you might think it would be on their feet instead of wire.
Cage touches are the most sanitary, a flat surface if it will hold, urine or manure can cause infections and create a breeding ground for bacteria. If the urine and manure can fall through it, that's a different story. Thanks for asking
yes you can grow a raised bed of winter wheat fodder and keep cutting it or simply start a tray indoors every other day in the winter and keep rotating it out
Enjoy your videos. I bought some straw that is chopped up wrapped in plastic…not the straw bale. Will the does make a nest even tho its not straw bale? Bigger strands of straw compared to the short cut straw.
I know you use nesting bins rather than boxes, but would you recommend using this design for boxes at well? We are starting out and trying to keep costs down. We will be using nest boxes for a while
I like the totes because they’re easy to clean. Wood absorbs urine so all nesting boxes have screened bottoms to quickly swap out urine soaked paper, shavings and straw. Thanks for asking
Good question. 1"x1/2" is the preferred size because Manure doesn't fall through 1/2"x1/2" as easily and depending on the size of rabbit, you may get build up.
Your videos are so helpful. Thanks! Due to trying to fit the cages in a 4' x 12' area (and needing room to move), is there any problem for the doe if I make the cages 24" deep, and 5' long (still 10 sq. ft.)?
Wrap your cages in hardware cloth if you are experiencing trouble with rodents, also remove any excess food below and around the cage. You can also leave traps or poison to eradicate when needed.
What about feeding hay? I see in your videos that your cages have a bin on the front for hay, how do you make those? What r the dimensions? Also what size of j-feeder do you use for the cages? How big do you need for a doe and the kits? How big for just the buck? I love your vids. Best I've seen and So far I've watched he'd a bunch. Definitely inspiring and thorough.
So, I am planning to raise two or three litters of meat bunnies at a time. I plan to harvest them at 12 weeks of age. Can I safely house the grow-outs together so long as there is enough space?
I'm wanting to find some American Chinchilla and Champagne d'Argent rabbits, will a 30x30 be big enough for them, or should I make them 36x30 (which is what I was planning on doing)?
Upside down... I thought this was just a common mistake we all made as an initiation into the "oops club" - LOL Happens to the best of us - great build!
Thanks for the videos, Bobby! Is there a reason you prefer to cut out and j clip your front, back and side pieces rather than bending a longer piece and only having 1 seam? Many other vids show the build with bending just curious if I'm missing something. Thanks alot for sharing all your information I've really learned alot from you and am planning to use alot of your ideas to start my rabbitry.
Good question. th-cam.com/video/hSdZb9Q4J9c/w-d-xo.html Here's another video about building cages where we build it in the way you described. Building this way You make less cuts but I've noticed that the cages keep a flatter cage floor bottom when cutting the sides separately and then piecing together. I don't like bowed cage floor bottoms.
I do have a question but first i want to Thank Bobby for the videos you share with us. I've watched a lot and learned a ton I just don't comment on most. My question is I don't see videos for building cages for larger rabbits like flemish giant. I built hutches with wood and wire but now realize this was a bad idea. The wood just soaks up the pee and makes a stinky home for our rabbits. I know I always see sizes like 30 x 30 and a few 36 x 36. My custom for my flemish is 36 x 48. All mine have been 36 tall as well. I know we are all different as we should be but my question is, building to my measurements would these cages be durable "in your opinion". I mean these portable cages. I'm about to build a system kind of like your hutch set up but some differences and I'm about to start building the portables this morning. I want my larger rabbits to have plenty of room with a nest box inside as well as up to 14 babies. I hope I'm clear with what I'm asking. Anyway hope you have a good weekend and thanks for any advice in advance
Thanks for watching! Good rule of thumb is .5 sqft per pound of rabbit. .6 for nursing does. Our outdoor hutch has cages at 40 inches tall to keep them away from raccoons and predators
The food is 40” high in the cage -There’s no food in the run or tote so no troubles there. If you have a lot of weasels rats or mice build your run with hardware cloth
Love your videos. Best rabbit videos on TH-cam! You put a lot of work in on these. How high are your cages and why? Would 18 inches suffice? Also, do you battle with raccoons? I think a racoon could open that latch. Thanks for your response.
Great video! I ordered off the links in the description. The 2"x1"x36" TOP link took me to the 36"x50' with 2"x3" openings. The photo on the link show 2'x3". Of course I didn't zoom in until I double checked the delivery with the order. Is it safe to use with a little extra engineering or should I return it?
Hmmm I'll be sure to check on that maybe the product is expired. I'm sorry about inaccuracy.The top would be ok for 2x3" and that saves money doing it that way but in most cases it's 1"x2" on top. We also have a storefront with more products that have more detailed product information www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter/list/1JX4S4TJ49ZOR The cage wire for the top of the cage needs to be a little bigger in order to cover dimensions like 30 x 30 and 30 x 36. But the roll itself should be 1" x 2"
I see that you grow fodder. I have been having the hardest time preventing mold from growing in my fodder trays. I’ve even drilled more holes in my trays and also soaking the barley and oat seeds in a Clorox and water solution before putting them in the tray. Any suggestions? Just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate your work in keeping your channel very informative and helpful to novice rabbit breeders like myself.
Sure I’d try this If your using lids Remove the lid when seeing mold it’ll dry up Adjust the watering Less water when watering it will still grow and just needs less moisture so it doesn’t mold
I remember when it was 12$ for 50lbs Now it’s 15$ just for lunch We’re working on our Feed course. It’s a good time to start growing your own. Should be out by thanksgiving 2023 Stay tuned…
Rabbits have allergies like humans and sometimes when putting out dusty hey this can make rabbits sneeze I wouldn’t worry too much about it but if the situation worsens I would research the symptoms so you can treat or find a rabbit vet to help you
@@TheRabbitryCenter Hello every one, am glad to talk to you again , I received my reply on the inquiry I made few days back, thank you for your cooperation, and I w'd love to hear more from you guys since am a starter, and I follow most of your u tube clips which helps me to be inspired and motivated, continue with that heart,.stay blessed 👋👋
you can if you want, certainly will save you time and cutting wheels, but the hutch I built called for 18 inch tall cages and traditionally, rabbit cages, or 16 to 18 inches tall. Also, studies have shown your rabbit will still stay productive with an average of 1 ft.² per pound a 30 x 30 x 18” is sufficient size.
Below the title of the video click “More” In The description of our videos shows more information pertaining to the video. The cost of all the cage wire is displayed per foot.
I from London ontario Canada we used on bottom of cage 1 by 1/2 12 GA wire. Sides we used 1 by 1 with babysaver on the bottom 14 GA. Top we used 1 by 1 14 GA. 😂
chickens eat a lot of gross things and rabbit manure is probably one of the cleaner things they root through. they scratch and eat the worms and beneficial insects.
I bought 36 inch wide wire. I cut it into half to make it 18 in tall. Then I cut its length to equal two sides in a back. So for 30 by 30 inch square cage I would have that piece 18 inch by 90. Bend it 30in in on both ends. For the top and the bottom and the front I use a piece 78-in long 30in a piece for the top and bottom and 18 in for the front and 36 in wide by then trim 6 in off the with making it 30in by 78 in Long. I've been bend it 30in back from each end and fasten the two u-shaped pieces together. That is a lot less drop and a lot less work to put together. It gives me an 18 x 30 x 30 cage cut out of only two pieces. I'm not saying this is better just something different.
@@rosirockful it looks like it to me they have food on demand they have half gallon waterers they get fresh straw they have room to stand up and put their toenails in the wire right under the metal roof and I've seen them stretching and Harry and Elizabeth come over into the corner of the cage and nose bump me
I will be making nesting boxes that will be external to the cage they are made out of 1x12 so 12 by 12 by 18 or so for length. They like them snug and cozy. I feel them with hay and when the female is ready she starts pulling under fur to make her nest lining. She lives in the box mostly for a little while then her. choice not mine
Tips on how to educate people that cages aren't bad for rabbits? we're battling hateful comments on the regular regarding our rabbit's ARBA approved cages *eyeroll*
In most cases, it's someone who is unfamiliar with rabbits, who is excited about having their pet and thinks they need to vent their frustration but really, it's inexperience talking. Try not to let these people bother you. There's no shortage of them. These folks have their mind made up and are unwilling to listen to logic. Just simply move onto the next comment, delete it, or hide user from channel. Focus on those interested in your content.
Gravity fed systems work. Often gravity fed systems are neglected and go uncleaned. Also, Studies show rabbits will drink more water from bowls. Our bowls are cleaned weekly providing clean, cold, fresh water twice a day which is very beneficial to the Rabbits hydration and health. We try to provide premium diet as well for premium results.
@@TheRabbitryCenter I agree quality of clean water is key, I have never seen any studies that show rabbits will drink more from bowls. do you have links to those studies? I would love to read up on that. my gravity system is pretty simple and easy to keep clean. as with anything it comes down to maintenance. mine is a 5 gallon bucket with a lid to keep it clean, mounted up high with a toilet bowl float to auto fill it. pvc pipe goes from it to each row of cages and a water nipple off of the pvc into each cage. the ends of the pipe have water faucets that can be open to flush. it stays very very clean. and they drink very well from it. having to change and clean bowls every day or multiple times per day when it gets hot can be very time consuming and I suppose if you only are taking care of the rabbits that might work. but I have cows, chickens, gardens etc. Plus when you have to clean a lot bowls that is usually where the breakdown comes and people can get lazy and not do the cleaning as much as they should. at least that is what I have seen.
I see that you use 24" wire and cut off 6" to make it 18" ....why cut off the 6"? Can't you just leave it at 24" and give them a little extra headroom?
I cut it off to fit our hutch roof. Any taller and they wouldn’t fit. Studies have shown that rabbits stay productive with .5 ft.² per pound (30x30x18)and nursing doe’s .6ft per pound (36x30x18). More space isn’t going to hurt if you have the room.
these animals are so intelligent and loving. i hate the idea they are killed for meat and bred over and over and over. what if this were you being treated this way? would you think about all this in a different way?
Thank you for sharing your perspective. I understand that this is a sensitive topic for many, and it’s important to recognize the diversity of opinions when it comes to animal farming. While some see rabbits as pets, others rely on them as a valuable food source or for agricultural benefits like manure for gardening. Farming, including raising rabbits, is an essential part of feeding and supporting communities. I respect that this may not align with your views, but I’d encourage you not to dwell on practices you don’t agree with, as farming isn’t going away. Rabbit farming has been practiced around the world for centuries, primarily as a sustainable and efficient source of protein. Rabbits are one of the most eco-friendly livestock options, requiring less space, feed, and water compared to many other animals, making them a practical choice for small-scale farmers and families. There’s also a big misconception that rabbit farmers neglect their animals. In reality, they are cared for with the utmost attention. They eat high-quality feed, stay in excellent health, and receive daily stimulation. By comparison, pet rabbits, while often loved at first, can unfortunately be neglected over time, overfed, or left unhealthy, eventually being sold or given away. Rabbit farmers specialize in their livestock, which means they know even more about the animals they raise and ensure their well-being. Instead of focusing solely on personal feelings, I’d encourage you to consider the broader context of sustainability and how different approaches work for different people. Thank you for asking!
Hi..... Thank you for showing your video rabbit 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 bye 👋 🐇🎥👍👍👍
Good video and I enjoyed that you left your uh oh moment in.
you bet, I try my best to keep it real and include all my mistakes. Thanks for watching!
I learned to use an angle grinder from a different cage builder but it is definitely a game changer! Be sure to wear your goggles!
I like goggles but I like the shields a little more (I’m wearing it in the video)so you can protect your entire face.
Inexpensive too
@@TheRabbitryCenter thanks for the reminder! I’ve thought about getting a shield. They’ve been hard to come by in my area, which is probably why I forgot about them. I will definitely look again!
A pair of lineman pliers will do the trick👍
@@number-it3hn I broke my wrist a couple years ago so the angle grinder causes less stress on my wrist. Wire cutters sure do come in handy though!
Pb p p p p p p
@@jeanettehaygood4154
Thanks for making thus video. Helped me out a lot
You’re very welcome!
What do you recommend to put on the door openings for protection for you & your bunnies? I put soft rubber around the openings but some of my rabbits are chewing them off! Thanks!
what opening are you referring to? the cage or hide box?
The main cage door
@@stacyclark5910 Thanks, I use my angle grinder and grind down the cage wire so it's smooth and no longer sharp
Here in the Philippines, we use plastic matting as their flooring to prevent mange and soar hoax. Great video Sir
Thank you so much for sharing!
Helloo, is there a reason you go with 30x30. I keep hearing the size should be 36x24.
36x24 is good for reaching to the back of your cage easily.
Here’s a video on cage space for rabbits th-cam.com/video/_VayAwnzmPs/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
This video was right on time for me. My rabbit herd is expending and I will be building more cages next week. Thanks so much!
Great! Thanks for watching!
where to find the J clips? Tractor supply/ home depot/ lowes?
i get them online from our storefront but TSC should carry them too Check out this list HUTCHES/CAGES from therabbitrycenter www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter/list/1JX4S4TJ49ZOR?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_aipsflist_aipsftherabbitrycenter_E1HE2WNAQ3AVT3R4M0SN&language=en_US
What is the clips called and the tool to crimp them?
All the tools are in the description if you click see more
Here's a link www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter/list/1JX4S4TJ49ZOR?linkCode=spc&tag=therabbitryce-20&domainId=influencer&asc_contentid=amzn1.ideas.1JX4S4TJ49ZOR
Im really enjoying your videos. Approx how many (correctly cut lol) cages could you make from the material list you provided?
You have different options the more you buy the better deal you get but the rolls available in our storefront approximately 10 to 12 depending on how big you go. Certain cage wire like cage- floor-bottom, you’ll have to buy additional rolls If you don’t buy a lot of it
Hi, I was wondering if I could get your opinion on expanded metal for the flooring of a rabbit cage. I already have some if is the smaller size diamond pattern. Wondering how you might think it would be on their feet instead of wire.
Cage touches are the most sanitary, a flat surface if it will hold, urine or manure can cause infections and create a breeding ground for bacteria. If the urine and manure can fall through it, that's a different story. Thanks for asking
I see that you use fodder to feed the rabbits, is it easy to produce enough on a daily basis?
yes you can grow a raised bed of winter wheat fodder and keep cutting it or simply start a tray indoors every other day in the winter and keep rotating it out
Enjoy your videos. I bought some straw that is chopped up wrapped in plastic…not the straw bale. Will the does make a nest even tho its not straw bale? Bigger strands of straw compared to the short cut straw.
They'll use what ever they have available. I'd search facebook or craigslist for a straw farmer in your area.
Thank you for sharing this video.👍🏻
You’re so welcome!
I know you use nesting bins rather than boxes, but would you recommend using this design for boxes at well?
We are starting out and trying to keep costs down. We will be using nest boxes for a while
I like the totes because they’re easy to clean. Wood absorbs urine so all nesting boxes have screened bottoms to quickly swap out urine soaked paper, shavings and straw. Thanks for asking
How would 3/8" x 3/8" work? Would there be any issue with the tighter mesh?
Good question. 1"x1/2" is the preferred size because Manure doesn't fall through 1/2"x1/2" as easily and depending on the size of rabbit, you may get build up.
@@TheRabbitryCenter thanks. That's what I was thinking but I had an extra roll sitting around so thought I'd ask and try save a buck
where does the rabbit droppings go? straight to the ground or how did you arrange it?
Straight to the ground here's a video on composting th-cam.com/video/9eYSa_viN9s/w-d-xo.html
Your videos are so helpful. Thanks! Due to trying to fit the cages in a 4' x 12' area (and needing room to move), is there any problem for the doe if I make the cages 24" deep, and 5' long (still 10 sq. ft.)?
Sounds right. They should be good with that. Thanks for watching!
What do you do to the sides at the bottom so nest box escapees don't go thru the wire?
Wrap hardware cloth around the bottom 6-8" of cage
@@TheRabbitryCenter so you don’t recommend baby saver wire?
How do you avoid mice or rats from getting in the cage if the wires are so widely spaced? I learn so much watching your channel 😊
Wrap your cages in hardware cloth if you are experiencing trouble with rodents, also remove any excess food below and around the cage. You can also leave traps or poison to eradicate when needed.
Nicely done 😁
Thanks for watching and commenting!
How do you keep the predators out of your kindling totes and do they chew on the spray foam?
no they don't chew through the tote or foam. Some rabbits will chew away the inside ring of foam but won't eat it.
I'm having a near impossible time locating 14 gauge wire for the bottom, are sore hocks a major concern with 16 gauge wire?
16 gauge will suffice. I use it. amzn.to/3AWfkXN Provide a resting board and a good regular diet. Breeding regularly helps keep there bodies in check.
What about feeding hay? I see in your videos that your cages have a bin on the front for hay, how do you make those? What r the dimensions? Also what size of j-feeder do you use for the cages? How big do you need for a doe and the kits? How big for just the buck?
I love your vids. Best I've seen and So far I've watched he'd a bunch. Definitely inspiring and thorough.
Here's a video MOVING KITS DAY 14/PREVENTING CHEWED FANS/MAKING HAY BASKETS/MARKING A QUEEN BEE
th-cam.com/video/2nZPAq72S1c/w-d-xo.html
So, I am planning to raise two or three litters of meat bunnies at a time. I plan to harvest them at 12 weeks of age. Can I safely house the grow-outs together so long as there is enough space?
Yes I’d make those cages 36 x 30 x18
I'm wanting to find some American Chinchilla and Champagne d'Argent rabbits, will a 30x30 be big enough for them, or should I make them 36x30 (which is what I was planning on doing)?
both will suffice. best of luck!
I found using an angle grinder can melt the welds making the cage fall apart prematurely.
Very true, That can happen when getting too close to the welds. The angle grinder demands precision when cutting.
Upside down... I thought this was just a common mistake we all made as an initiation into the "oops club" - LOL
Happens to the best of us - great build!
Thanks for the videos, Bobby!
Is there a reason you prefer to cut out and j clip your front, back and side pieces rather than bending a longer piece and only having 1 seam? Many other vids show the build with bending just curious if I'm missing something.
Thanks alot for sharing all your information I've really learned alot from you and am planning to use alot of your ideas to start my rabbitry.
Good question. th-cam.com/video/hSdZb9Q4J9c/w-d-xo.html Here's another video about building cages where we build it in the way you described. Building this way You make less cuts but I've noticed that the cages keep a flatter cage floor bottom when cutting the sides separately and then piecing together. I don't like bowed cage floor bottoms.
I do have a question but first i want to Thank Bobby for the videos you share with us. I've watched a lot and learned a ton I just don't comment on most. My question is I don't see videos for building cages for larger rabbits like flemish giant. I built hutches with wood and wire but now realize this was a bad idea. The wood just soaks up the pee and makes a stinky home for our rabbits. I know I always see sizes like 30 x 30 and a few 36 x 36. My custom for my flemish is 36 x 48. All mine have been 36 tall as well. I know we are all different as we should be but my question is, building to my measurements would these cages be durable "in your opinion". I mean these portable cages. I'm about to build a system kind of like your hutch set up but some differences and I'm about to start building the portables this morning. I want my larger rabbits to have plenty of room with a nest box inside as well as up to 14 babies. I hope I'm clear with what I'm asking. Anyway hope you have a good weekend and thanks for any advice in advance
Thanks for watching!
Good rule of thumb is .5 sqft per pound of rabbit. .6 for nursing does.
Our outdoor hutch has cages at 40 inches tall to keep them away from raccoons and predators
What do you do to keep mice and rats away? Don't they try to enter the cages or hang around the area to get some of the food?
The food is 40” high in the cage -There’s no food in the run or tote so no troubles there. If you have a lot of weasels rats or mice build your run with hardware cloth
Love your videos. Best rabbit videos on TH-cam! You put a lot of work in on these.
How high are your cages and why? Would 18 inches suffice?
Also, do you battle with raccoons? I think a racoon could open that latch. Thanks for your response.
16-18” will suffice. Thanks for watching!
*45,72cm
Great video! I ordered off the links in the description. The 2"x1"x36" TOP link took me to the 36"x50' with 2"x3" openings. The photo on the link show 2'x3". Of course I didn't zoom in until I double checked the delivery with the order. Is it safe to use with a little extra engineering or should I return it?
Hmmm I'll be sure to check on that maybe the product is expired. I'm sorry about inaccuracy.The top would be ok for 2x3" and that saves money doing it that way but in most cases it's 1"x2" on top.
We also have a storefront with more products that have more detailed product information www.amazon.com/shop/therabbitrycenter/list/1JX4S4TJ49ZOR
The cage wire for the top of the cage needs to be a little bigger in order to cover dimensions like 30 x 30 and 30 x 36. But the roll itself should be 1" x 2"
Here's the correct roll for tops
amzn.to/3I3CX2m
Bobby I agree with everything you said 👌🤗👍
Thanks for that and thanks for watching!
I see that you grow fodder. I have been having the hardest time preventing mold from growing in my fodder trays. I’ve even drilled more holes in my trays and also soaking the barley and oat seeds in a Clorox and water solution before putting them in the tray. Any suggestions? Just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate your work in keeping your channel very informative and helpful to novice rabbit breeders like myself.
Sure I’d try this
If your using lids
Remove the lid when seeing mold it’ll dry up
Adjust the watering
Less water when watering it will still grow and just needs less moisture so it doesn’t mold
I don’t know if it would work for fodder, but watering seedlings with Chamomile tea is helpful for preventing damping off disease (a type of mold).
@@TheRabbitryCenter thanks, I’ll give it a go.
@@jeanettehaygood4154 thanks for the tea idea.
Also when soaking seeds for 24 hours add in a cap Of bleach to prevent mold
same wire is 45$ for 25' now. things have gotten crazy expensive in the last year and a half. cheapest 16% feed at tractor supply is 26$ a bag.
I remember when it was 12$ for 50lbs
Now it’s 15$ just for lunch
We’re working on our Feed course. It’s a good time to start growing your own.
Should be out by thanksgiving 2023
Stay tuned…
Hi rabbitry center, am Solomon, east Africa I have challenge on newZealand buck it sneezes too much what c'd be the problem
Rabbits have allergies like humans and sometimes when putting out dusty hey this can make rabbits sneeze I wouldn’t worry too much about it but if the situation worsens I would research the symptoms so you can treat or find a rabbit vet to help you
@@TheRabbitryCenter Hello every one, am glad to talk to you again , I received my reply on the inquiry I made few days back, thank you for your cooperation, and I w'd love to hear more from you guys since am a starter, and I follow most of your u tube clips which helps me to be inspired and motivated, continue with that heart,.stay blessed 👋👋
I just wondering, if your wire on your sides is 24” why cut it to 18”, isn’t 24” a better size
you can if you want,
certainly will save you time and cutting wheels, but the hutch I built called for 18 inch tall cages and traditionally, rabbit cages, or 16 to 18 inches tall.
Also, studies have shown your rabbit will still stay productive with an average of 1 ft.² per pound a 30 x 30 x 18” is sufficient size.
How much does this cost to build a cage like this?
Below the title of the video click “More”
In The description of our videos shows more information pertaining to the video. The cost of all the cage wire is displayed per foot.
@ thank you so much!
Good evening boss ,am looking for rabbit market
Contact your county clerk to find out where your farmers market location and time
How much cost do you have in cage?
Approximately 14$
how much is the welded wire Sirr?
It’s all in the description below
$ Prices per foot
To the right of the video title there’s a little- V
Click the- V
This will open up the description to the video showing all the cage wire
Nice use of the face shield😅😅
Thanks for watching!
Can u breed ur rabbits in a barn year round I live in California LA
As long as your barn doesn’t get too hot
Thanks
I from London ontario Canada we used on bottom of cage 1 by 1/2 12 GA wire. Sides we used 1 by 1 with babysaver on the bottom 14 GA. Top we used 1 by 1 14 GA. 😂
Thank you so much for sharing. We have a few cages with one by one.
I want to expand my farm but I luck same capital
Ok hello. I don't want to sound nieve but why would you let the chickens founder the cages. They might eat the poop wouldn't they.😊
chickens eat a lot of gross things and rabbit manure is probably one of the cleaner things they root through. they scratch and eat the worms and beneficial insects.
I bought 36 inch wide wire. I cut it into half to make it 18 in tall. Then I cut its length to equal two sides in a back. So for 30 by 30 inch square cage I would have that piece 18 inch by 90. Bend it 30in in on both ends. For the top and the bottom and the front I use a piece 78-in long 30in a piece for the top and bottom and 18 in for the front and 36 in wide by then trim 6 in off the with making it 30in by 78 in Long. I've been bend it 30in back from each end and fasten the two u-shaped pieces together. That is a lot less drop and a lot less work to put together. It gives me an 18 x 30 x 30 cage cut out of only two pieces. I'm not saying this is better just something different.
Sounds good to me! Thank you so much for sharing.
Sounds efficient! You think 18 inch height is sufficient?
@@rosirockful it looks like it to me they have food on demand they have half gallon waterers they get fresh straw they have room to stand up and put their toenails in the wire right under the metal roof and I've seen them stretching and Harry and Elizabeth come over into the corner of the cage and nose bump me
I will be making nesting boxes that will be external to the cage they are made out of 1x12 so 12 by 12 by 18 or so for length. They like them snug and cozy. I feel them with hay and when the female is ready she starts pulling under fur to make her nest lining. She lives in the box mostly for a little while then her. choice not mine
Tips on how to educate people that cages aren't bad for rabbits? we're battling hateful comments on the regular regarding our rabbit's ARBA approved cages *eyeroll*
In most cases, it's someone who is unfamiliar with rabbits, who is excited about having their pet and thinks they need to vent their frustration but really, it's inexperience talking. Try not to let these people bother you. There's no shortage of them. These folks have their mind made up and are unwilling to listen to logic. Just simply move onto the next comment, delete it, or hide user from channel. Focus on those interested in your content.
I don't understand why you don't use auto watering systems instead of having to water the rabbits everyday.
Gravity fed systems work. Often gravity fed systems are neglected and go uncleaned. Also, Studies show rabbits will drink more water from bowls. Our bowls are cleaned weekly providing clean, cold, fresh water twice a day which is very beneficial to the Rabbits hydration and health. We try to provide premium diet as well for premium results.
@@TheRabbitryCenter I agree quality of clean water is key, I have never seen any studies that show rabbits will drink more from bowls. do you have links to those studies? I would love to read up on that. my gravity system is pretty simple and easy to keep clean. as with anything it comes down to maintenance. mine is a 5 gallon bucket with a lid to keep it clean, mounted up high with a toilet bowl float to auto fill it. pvc pipe goes from it to each row of cages and a water nipple off of the pvc into each cage. the ends of the pipe have water faucets that can be open to flush. it stays very very clean. and they drink very well from it. having to change and clean bowls every day or multiple times per day when it gets hot can be very time consuming and I suppose if you only are taking care of the rabbits that might work. but I have cows, chickens, gardens etc. Plus when you have to clean a lot bowls that is usually where the breakdown comes and people can get lazy and not do the cleaning as much as they should. at least that is what I have seen.
For pets...rabbits really love free range in home. Thats where they do best. It can be done.
Thanks for sharing
I see that you use 24" wire and cut off 6" to make it 18" ....why cut off the 6"? Can't you just leave it at 24" and give them a little extra headroom?
I cut it off to fit our hutch roof. Any taller and they wouldn’t fit. Studies have shown that rabbits stay productive with .5 ft.² per pound (30x30x18)and nursing doe’s .6ft per pound (36x30x18). More space isn’t going to hurt if you have the room.
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these animals are so intelligent and loving. i hate the idea they are killed for meat and bred over and over and over. what if this were you being treated this way? would you think about all this in a different way?
Thank you for sharing your perspective. I understand that this is a sensitive topic for many, and it’s important to recognize the diversity of opinions when it comes to animal farming.
While some see rabbits as pets, others rely on them as a valuable food source or for agricultural benefits like manure for gardening. Farming, including raising rabbits, is an essential part of feeding and supporting communities. I respect that this may not align with your views, but I’d encourage you not to dwell on practices you don’t agree with, as farming isn’t going away.
Rabbit farming has been practiced around the world for centuries, primarily as a sustainable and efficient source of protein. Rabbits are one of the most eco-friendly livestock options, requiring less space, feed, and water compared to many other animals, making them a practical choice for small-scale farmers and families.
There’s also a big misconception that rabbit farmers neglect their animals. In reality, they are cared for with the utmost attention. They eat high-quality feed, stay in excellent health, and receive daily stimulation. By comparison, pet rabbits, while often loved at first, can unfortunately be neglected over time, overfed, or left unhealthy, eventually being sold or given away. Rabbit farmers specialize in their livestock, which means they know even more about the animals they raise and ensure their well-being.
Instead of focusing solely on personal feelings, I’d encourage you to consider the broader context of sustainability and how different approaches work for different people. Thank you for asking!