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Preparing and fitting Peco electric points
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2019
- This is the preparation and fitting of Peco electric point motors on a model railway from start to finish. I KEEP SAYING CAPACITORS BUT THEY ARE DIODES. The gaugemaster PCU1 that I operate already has a CDU in it. The diodes stop power seepage when you throw the switch. If you are using a points control unit that does not contain a CDU you will need to buy one. The diodes stop power seepage when you throw the switch so the points get the full hit. l do have my own group on facebook if this is any good to you. "Paul Briden's model railway group".
Adding to this great video some clarification on the electronic side. To my previous knowledge a capacitor and a diode are two completely different components for different purposes. In simple terms a capacitor as mentioned will store an amount of power to be used when demanded. In the case of point motors they give that extra surge to ensure a clean switch every time. But with a diode it will only allow power one way which is why they are banded or coded one end. If you put it the wrong way round power will not flow. I liken them to a one way valve as in water flow which simplifies things for anyone new trying to understand. As far as I am aware the purpose of a diode is to prevent reverse current flow which would cause damage. I can't see that the point motors would work any better with a diode fitted but they would be better protected from any stray power. The capacitor is the only component to make the points throw better. I do not mean this to be any criticism on an other wise good informative video but intend it to be of some help and extra knowledge for those interested.
Almost right and no I am not offended at all. A diode is a semiconductor device that essentially acts as a one-way switch for current. It allows current to flow easily in one direction, but severely restricts current from flowing in the opposite direction. A capacitor is an electronic component that stores and releases electricity in a circuit. Whenever you send power down a wire, you always get some sort of current flow in the opposite direction What the diode does is make sure that the point motor gets the full hit of power. Hence why my point motors make a good slam as they change the points. Hence why in big capital letters I have corrected my mistake in the discription. The capacitor will not make the points throw better. A capacitor is a useful tool if you do not have a stable current flow to a device. Hence why some people fit stay alive capacitors to their model locos, all they are really doing is putting a plaster on poorly laid or unclean track, or locos with pickups that are not working correctly.
Deadest my fave of all turnout motors I think they just look real as opposed to something under the board
You are correct, when you go to a real railway you have what looks like these beside the side of the points.
Great video thank you so much I now know what to do👍
Great job.
Thank you for explaining this in such a clear and simple way. Very helpful. Do you use a Peco points motor?
Yes I do. I use Peco PL-11 motors. This is the first time I have seen your comment, sorry for the late reply.
All point motors under the baseboard for me 🙂
I am 17 stone with a 54 inch chest, I not exactly paddle around under the baseboard material. However, it is what works for you, there are no hard and fast rules. What you cannot change, is it is easier to change a point motor on top of the board, rather than one underneath.
@@PaulBriden Fully agree but for me I don't have many options running N scale DCC, pretty much everything has to go under the track. The price you pay for running long trains in minimal space N scale. 🙂
Thanks. I know how to install these but wanted to see how they look as I am currently ready to install pl 10 point motors but I am in N scale and really do not want to cut a ginormous hole in my table. I have a double crossover I made and this means I need to install 4 pl 10s so I am lost as to what would work out better.
No problem 👍
Why do you use diodes?
It allows maximum current to move the point motor, without them the current would flow back and not fire the point as efficiently. That is why when you hear an electric point it lets out a
strong thud.
I wanted to change some points from Hornby to peco but when I tried the peco motors wouldn’t throw the peco points. Now I know what to do thank you, where can I buy them please and could you give me the specification?
Hi Paul, great video thanks.
Its my first time fitting Peco point motors, but i am not sure how the fit to the toggle switches to make them work.
I understand I also need a CDU capacitor to make it work better ??
Like you i have ballasted most of my track and will need to cut some up to make them fit.
But you have given me great hope after watching you do it.
I suppose not to be scared of doing it wrong.
If you have any tips or another video on wiring up the switches it would be most appreciated .
Thanks again
Duncan.
Your right, I keep calling them capacities when in fact what I am fitting is Diodes, Yes you do need these. I use Gaugemaster PCU1 point controllers as the power and selection are all in the same unit. th-cam.com/video/QvjL_YmE_5w/w-d-xo.html So basically the wires from the point motors go to this box. The gaugemaster PCU1 already contains a CDU.
Those “capacitors” you keep mentioning are diodes! It would be easier to make up a few boards with the diodes on (you could make a hundred in an evening!) Please explain what they’re used for and what purpose.
If you bother to read the description I do correct this in large capital letters. A diode is a semiconductor device that essentially acts as a one-way switch for current. It allows current to flow easily in one direction, but severely restricts current from flowing in the opposite direction. A capacitor is an electronic component that stores and releases electricity in a circuit. Whenever you send power down a wire, you always get some sort of current flow in the opposite direction What the diode does is make sure that the point motor gets the full hit of power. Hence why my point motors make a good slam as they change the points. Hence why in big capital letters I have corrected my mistake in the discription. The capacitor will not make the points throw better. A capacitor is a useful tool if you do not have a stable current flow to a device. Hence why some people fit stay alive capacitors to their model locos, all they are really doiing is putting a plaster on poorly laid or unclean track, or locos with pickups that are not working correctly.
@@PaulBriden Wow. Aggressive. Your understanding of basic electronics is somewhat lacking. DC flows one way, unless you reverse the polarity. AC 'flows back', 50 times s second ! If you are referring to a back emf, you should say so; and explain where the inductance is.
@@rtalbot87 Fine.
@rtalbot87 i use a Capacitor Discharge Unit and run several point motors from it, is this sufficient,
Paul great video using screws instead of pins .....what size are the screws?
MF-ST31/100 No 0 Phillips Pan Head Self Tappers x 9.5mm lg (pack of 100) ...................I bought these from model fixings. Do not make the same mistake that I made and buy cheap black ones from Ebay, they sheared and the heads kept breaking off. Yes you have to paint the heads, but when it comes to altering or replacing track they are great, also if you are using Cork they are great for adjusting the level of the track.
Hi Paul, Late to the game seeing your great video. I'm just about to wire my first Peco point motors. I notice that you mention soldering in place diodes. Are these instead of having to use a CDU capacitor. I am going to use my Gaugemaster controller 16v output. If that is correct and ok, what diodes should I be looking for? Many Thanks.
A capacitor stores electricity, like what they use to keep the lights on in carriages that go over insulfrog points. They call them stay alive capacitors. The Diode allows a full direct flow of power that cannot return backwards up the wire so as to give the point motors a real kick. I have never used CDU capacitor's on points so I do not know. However, having a quick look at the internet it appears the CDU does do the same job. How I do not know as a capacitor does a different job to a diode. The diodes I use are Gaugmaster GM74 £4.49 on Ebay 3 available. Yes 16 volts is the correct voltage. I would say I use diodes instead of CDU capacitors. My experience of CDU capacitors is zero so I cannot speak from experience. I can only vouch for what I have experienced, I am not the worlds leading expert on model railway electrics. Have fun !!!
@@PaulBriden Many thanks Paul. Great honest advice.
What size screws did you use to hold your points down. I did you have to drill the hole bigger beholden mine are less and a millimetre why
No you do not need to drill your holes in the track any bigger and the screws are MF-ST31/100 No 0 Phillips Pan Head Self Tappers x 9.5mm lg (pack of 100) available from Model Fixings.com
could i power this with a 12V DC power supply ?
They are powered by 12 volt power, however, my knowledge of electrics do not stretch further than buying what is recommended for the job and wiring up.
@@PaulBriden Hi Paul, I also use 12V DC but my motors does not have the strength to throw the switch. Is it because I don't use diodes? If so, why don't Peco inform this in their booklet??
@@glenneriksson8916 Without seeing your set up I cannot answer, I do not work for Peco so why they would not include information like this I do not know. However, a check you can do is manually try and change the point with the motor connected to check it is not too tight. If you have screwed your motor down too tight the movement will be the same and therefore not work. Also check to see if the motor works not connected to the point. I hope these idea's help you.
What size diode did you use?
I amp diodes. GAUGEMASTER 1 Amp Diodes for PCU1 & SS1 (20) GM74
Thank you
and no toggle switch required is it?
I use a gaugemaster points controller .
Hi Paul
Please what's in the yellow pot ?
Soldering flux.
@@PaulBriden Thank you
Sorry, but it was impossible to see what you were doing because your hands, wrists and arms were forever getting in the way...
I must agree, but where ever you film from with the parts being so small you are always going to obscure something. However, I have watched it a couple of times since your feed back, I even had one of my non model railway friends watch it. Their view, they agree with you, but you can work out what I have done by the end result. For Example, by watching my hands you can see I am screwing in a screw then when the camera moves away you can see what I have done.
Melting plastic with iron damages ur iron tip
Nope, you just wipe it off with a wet sponge while the iron is still hot, just like you do the flux.
Melted plastic releases petroleum chemicals (oils) that eat the iron tip u may get away with it once but eventually ur replacing tip