ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
Bite Size Bits - Fitting Seep point motors
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2021
- This is not a channel for "how to" videos but I have had a lot of questions about SEEP point motors and have heard a lot of people say they are hard to fit. Hopefully, this video will help those who are unsure, to take the plunge and give the SEEPs a try.
I have fitted 200 of them and nether been able to get them to work but that method u just showed is stupidly simple and its one thing I lent is people tend to look for the more complex answer when sometimes simplicity is the best way thanks I I have a couple of them kicking about and will try this out soon
Hi BP I confess its an idea taken from elsewhere but worth passing on.
your last vid role of wire on tracks they have metal inserts took me two days to find the short enjoying the videos new sub
Haha. Yes, we’ve all done that Graham 😂😂
excellent demonstration!
Thank you!
Hi I too use Seep motors and have found it necessary in some locations to install them from above the baseboard!
Using an old baseplate (stripped of its 2 coils and the soft iron sliding core) as a jig I align this over the 7mm hole and align with the cross hairs you suggested. I them drill the baseboard to countersink for two 4BA cask screw. Why 4BA
Well the pre-drilled hole in the Seep base plate is the correct size for ‘tapping’ a 4BA thread. I then pre-wire the Seep with 5 connections - Coil common; Normal coil; Reverse coil; micro switch common; output contact from the micro switch when the Reverse coil is energised. It is then possible to offer the complete pre-wired assembly up from the underside of the baseboard, through the hole in the tie bar and secure with the 2 x 4BA cask screws from above. When testing is complete I add a locknut to each screw with the aid of a 4BA ‘nut runner’ from below the board.
My frog switching and position indicators are routed via a DPDT 12v coil sub miniature relay that will only be energised when the point is in the Reverse position. Hope this will be of interest and assist others in mounting these excellent motors, particularly if retro fitting to existing point work. Thanks for sharing your great content. Best Regards. T🚂
Great tip Tony - thanks for sharing!!
That looks like a very special hammer you have there.
Thanks for sharing, much appreciated.
Thanks for watching!
Nice video Enjoyed it very much.
Glad you enjoyed it
@@yarslowmodelrailway1 Thank you very much for replying to my comment. I would love if you could take a quick look at my page and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Great idea with the cross hairs - will be trying that this week 🙂👍
Hope you enjoy
Nice technical update 👍🏻
Hi Stevie. I don't usually do technical "How to" stuff but, having been asked a number of times, I thought this one was worthwhile.
Really useful video! Any chance of one to show how to wire them? Thanks 😊
Hi Phil. IO am filming a short on preparing live frog points so will add a bit on the end about wiring them up.
I have one seep motor that will reverse the point but not normalise it. The wiring is fine so is the motor faulty? It still does the same thing when removed from my layout.
Sounds faulty. Worth double-checking the soldering on the wires, just in case. Gaugemaster are usually very good with their after-sales service. Try sending it back to them and asking if they can have a look at it for you. They might not be able to help but I am sure that if they can, they will.
@@yarslowmodelrailway1 Thanks for your reply. I replaced the motor and it works now 😁
I used to like Seeps being a cheap all in one polarity switch and for 00 probably fine but wouldn't reccomend for N. I'm using them on Norramby my N gauge layout. Set up was easy enough as I made a jig but being N they don't move as much as 00 and had to design & build bypass switches for the polarity change that were driven by the Seep pin. Not ideal.
Hi Sparkshot. I'm surprised that Gaugemaster don't do an N gauge version given that 2mm has had such a huge rise in interest in recent years
@@yarslowmodelrailway1 Yeah you'd think so, maybe because some get away with it they're not bothered.
To add to the mix - When I use Seep PMs on N gauge I slightly offset the PM so that the travel of the tie bar is restricted when moving to the ‘normal’ position. Accordingly when switching to ‘reverse’ pos’n the travel is greater and this in tern ensures the Aux switch fully makes contact with its ‘reverse’ output terminal. By wiring the coil of a DPDT 1relay to this output and the frog to the common, fed in the usual way by by the n/o and n/c contacts from the stock rails a very reliable frog switching is achieved. How this helps others applying Seeps to N gauge points. T🚂
Toy Train Set nonsense. Not recommended if you want a proper "Model Railway" !!!
Sorry James - would you care to elaborate? I have a proper model railway and use plenty of SEEPs. What would you use instead?