More improvements to Peco points at Chadwick Model Railway. | 74.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- Some great improvements to Peco points.
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Thank you for taking the time to make the video Charlie, informative as always
Thanks, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Another terrific video with lots of really helpful tips, described and explained in such a way, even beginner modellers like me feel like I want to try to make these changes and be confident doing so. Brilliant. I SUBSCRIBED!!
It’s great to have you onboard Chris
Thank you for your video. Perfect timing. I now have to do some mods to my points before laying my storage yards tomorrow morning.
Great timing Hamish.
As a thought for modern image layouts, the plastic could be painted orange to look like cable trunking.
Great video as always, can’t wait to see the ‘finished’ layout in years to come.
Thanks,
Owen.
Thanks Owen you’re too kind.
Very timely tip. I’m about to start laying track on my new layout.
Thank you
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Hansfriess.
Bloody brilliant! That's just sorted out the most annoying Peco Code 75 point in the universe (which just happened to be on my layout!). My railway room is going to be a far less sweary place as a result. Thanks for that Charlie - much appreciated.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it BC1
Excellent tips Charlie - a very nice modification! I'm installing Peco turnouts on my layout now - this info was very timely for me! Thanks for sharing. Best, John
I’m so pleased that you found it useful John.
Thank you very much Charlie, I will have to wait till the morning. But I certainly am having those problems with 2 of my switches. This has highlighted an area I had not thought of. Thanks once again from Australia.
Thanks Ian, I’m so pleased that you have found it useful.
Excellent video Charlie!!
Fantastic tips for correcting point problems (and making sure that wheels are gauged properly!!)
Cheers Derek
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it DL.
Great video Charlie and perfect timing as my track is down and weathered but not ballasted yet. Now another project before I ballast!
Hey, great timing Dan
Good tip there Charlie, I'll take that on board and check what few points I have on my layout. Thank you for your advice.
Cheers
Geoff
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Geoff.
Thankyou. Very useful and I'll be doing these improvements on my N Gauge layout in preparation to using servo point motors
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found a video interesting. Regards Charlie
Great video and very informative, thank you Charlie so much
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Graham.
Hi Charlie thanks for publishing this video it's been most helpful as I too had a couple of problem points armed with this information I will put your tips to good use. I also use a 3 way point but have no issues with that.
Hi Giles, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Brilliant tutorial Charlie, again; this has been a nemesis for me, nearly all my points are old and second hand. This modification has not only saved me replacing all my twenty points but saved me a fortune in the process, many, many thanks, keep up the excellent work.
So pleased that you found it useful.
Instablaster
Absolutely brilliant tip. Timely as ever.
Thanks Tony, you’re too kind.
Ahh, the light-bulb has come on! I had a really troublesome point on my last layout, and I've worried my plan may fail because of these issues, but you have just shown me how to solve my problems with this simple and elegant solution! Thanks Charlie!!
That’s great news John, regards Charlie.
Just found your channel and it it a gold mine... thank you so much.
I’m so pleased that you have found the channel useful. Regards Charlie
Great little video and went out on my railway and slid several point blades back.
That’s great Peter.
Hi Charlie, very useful info and I have had to trim one of my N gauge points in the past. Didn’t put the rod in so I must go back to it and fix it in. Many thanks for sharing as this is invaluable info to know..Chris
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris.
Hello, Charlie! What a pleasure to meet a man full of information, rather than himself. (The unfortunate outfall of giving such a platform to every ebullient chap in need of "stardom.") Thanks so much for these informative tips. I'm just considering modeling in 009, and this is just the sort of encouragement I need. I must say that another of your McKinley colleagues, David Townend, has caught my attention for the same reasons: calm, informed, vastly experienced, and most pleasant. Kudos to the both of you. And best wishes for a brilliant 2022 from a new fan "across the pond." FH - Reinbeck, IA, USA.
What a heartwarming comment Frederick. Good luck with your 009 project and best wishes for 2022.
Regards Charlie
Great practical tips. Appreciated Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
There's always something useful a new to be learned. Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it OF.
verry fine job, Charlie I am sure your trains will roll verry smoothly on this point . I appreciate the use of a precision file.thanks a lot for this tip.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Pierre. Regards Charlie.
I'd never have thought about that kind of modification Charlie, thank you for sharing it.
The plastistrut seems like a worthwhile thing for sure, I am past the point where I can do it on my layout but I am planning an exhibition one which will include 2 or 3 code 75 curved points, so this seems like a must.
Until the next video, Alex.
Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you found it useful
Good day Charlie ,again another great presentation and you made a lot of good "points" ha ! ha!,thats the second time ive seen your phone ring as you are ding vid ,love the way you roll your eyes and say "that will be the phone then!!!!" keep em coming Charlie ,Take care ,Mac
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it MT. One day I’ll learn to turn the phone off!
nah no need to turn it off as you fan club wont be able to get hold of you and you need it for your photography business , its all part of showing you just a normal down to earth guy.
Charlie, great idea on how to remedy a very nasty problem. That little plastic piece will save many headaches. One trick I am going to remember. Thanks for sharing. Ken
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ken.
Brillant!!! Absolutely Brillant!!!! I have been having issues like this for the past week on my layout and now you have answered the burning question, should I buy new switches, I am glad that I saw this, thank you, Sir.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it SBRR
Some great points you made on how to improve your turnouts. Thanks for your help!
You’re most welcome Joe.
I have just completed my layout and observed this exact problem on the facing Peco points. I implemented your suggestions on one of them and it worked great. Thanks.
That’s exactly what this community is about. Brilliant.
You are a great modeller. I am learning a lot from you. Thank you.
It’s comments such as yours SGM, that make it worthwhile.
Brilliant video Charlie I had the same problem but just got me dremmil and put a bit of packing in to support it between the rails and ground back the edge of the blades slightly didn’t realise the switch rails had moved back, a good tip keep finding these please.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Michael.
Over in the US I work on a layout called the Turtle Creek Railroad. This layout is unusual in that it is made up of moderately difficult switching puzzles strung onto each other and when you operate you run from town to town switching every one. As such we have about 250 peco turnouts of all shapes and sizes and well over half feed power thru the points. A common problem we have is dust, stray ballast, etc. collecting on various points of the turnout impeding power flow. Our late track superintendent's solution to this problem was a magic toothbrush. Whenever a turnout was acting up, a good scrub with Carl's magic toothbrush solved most any problem.
Thanks Charlie, that’s very interesting.
Great tip Charlie , If I have any issues with any of my Pico turnouts I hope I remember your tips and tricks .. Thanks Charlie, Jim
Thanks Jim, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
very good video, I have 2 3-way points and fortunately they have been very reliable in the 8 years that they have been installed.
You’re a lucky man Simon, every time I’ve bought one of those points I’ve had problems.
Excellent video and great advice, I shall be checking my suspect points now
Good for you Gary.
Always nice to learn. Thanks Charley
So pleased that you enjoyed it Charles
Great video, it's a goer for me as I'm in process of rebuild....
Great Richard, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
You have showed the (hopefully) answer to a lot of problem solving I believe for pointwork. Avoidance of 3 way & slips too ;-) Thank you for another informative video Charlie. Iain
Thanks Iain, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Off to check a troublesome point thanks to your info Charlie!
Good luck Kev.
Always a great hints....thanks for sharing....Jack
You’re welcome Jack.
Top tip Charlie. I don't currently have any big problems but I shall store this one away in the memory bank for the future. Cheers.
Thanks Davie, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
after watching this Im going to check the club layout for the blade movement . we have 3 areas of occaisional derailments on tacing points.
thanks for another excellent tip
Is the three-way points that are the worst John, so keep an eye on those. Regards Charlie
Such great information Charlie - thankyou.
My pleasure John. Regards Charlie
Great tip Charlie , I use peco as well , the narro gauge . Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bert.
At last, thank you for your tips and hints, it's great to have someone talk about derailment. I thought it was me! Well yes it was but not entirely, so I'm very grateful. Thank you
Thanks Paul , I’m so pleased that you found it useful mate. Regards, Charlie
Hey, Charlie! Missed seeing you! Great pointers on modifying these switches for better reliability. Looking forward to the wiring video from McKinley!
Thanks Pat, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Thanks, Charlie, I installed the last seven points on my layout last month... I wish you had made this video much earlier... Still, I have down loaded it for reference and added it to my collection. I will also buy a stock of Evergreen strip next wekk - just in case!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Evening Charlie watched your video about the evergreen strips for improving points l found some on ebay but I used it to get better contact for my train tech sensor signals prongs that go between the sleepers and rails and it was a success so I would recommend it to your other viewers who want better contact with train tech sensor products like signals thanks for showing this product on your channel it has lots of possibilities for model railways
Thanks again
Best wishes
Kev Beighton Parkway
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Kev.
Thank you Charlie well presented video clear instructions. keep on educating us.
You’re too kind Rob.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm Fairly new to this Charlie coming back into it at 62 !!! my layout still under development a few videos can be seen on youtube Robley Town.
I’ll check it out Rob.
Excellent! Thanks Charlie. I have 4 Peco 3 way points but fortunately they are only in areas such as the loco shed where trains pass over them at very slow speed - so far they seem to be OK.
That’s good news TJ. I was coaching stock and steam locos that were the worst for me.
Good advice Charlie, I had a bad turnout and wound up tossing it. I wish I knew then what you just showed everyone.
Thanks James, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Hi Charlie, thanks for showing those tips I wouldn’t have known about that issue, and I would have been pulling my hair out. Kind regards alex
Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Thanks for the info will now attempt a couple of n gauge points that are giving ttrouble on my layout. Thanks
Good luck Shaun.
Thanks Charlie, for the tip.
You’re most welcome Peter.
Great tip. Many thanks.
You’re welcome AN
just started in the hobby (at 72) really enjoying and learning so much, not sure if i've been a bit overambitious but have started out with N gauge and i've got fingers like pork sausages but i'm persevering with it
N-Gauge can be a bit of a struggle AM. I wish you good luck with your project, regards, Charlie
Masters classwork. Well played! 👍
Thanks AD, you’re too kind.
Charlie, Thank you so much for this easy tip for Peco points. As well as fileing the toe end of the blades I find some of the points also can have a slightly rough edge where the pressed metal blades touch the rail section in the center of the point. Just gently rub your finger over this area and you'll soon notice this rough edge. To fix this I cut a 75mm x 20mm strip of cork ( road bed ) and glue a strip of 800 grade emery paper to this. Then a few rubs over the area will soon smooth it out. My major problem at the moment is Peco's Smartswich system. Having bought all the bit's all wired in, motors work trains run straight threw. Throw the point all dead. The wiring diagrams for this system are very poor. At the other end of the layout I'm using Tortoise point motors. Plug in wire up all running as sweet as a nut, go figure. I'm using Peco Electro Frog points. Sorry to moan on . Cheers, Chris Perry.
Tortoises should rule the world!
Excellent video Charlie. Haven't laid the track that will require points yet but they are Peco Electrofrog and will most certainly adopt the plastic insert. Dread to think about trying to do anything after being ballasted !!! Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Thanks Rick, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
Thank you for the tip Charlie, I have same problem with a couple of my n scale turnouts. I will surely check them out for this problem.
Hey Sean, Charlie may, or may not, confirm this but you may have to use a different size of plastic strip for N gauge. Being half the size, there will be less clearance. I would be interested to know how you get on if you do try this fix.😊
Cheers,
Dougie.
Interesting, N must be more difficult.
@@ChadwickModelRailway it is especially when the eyesight isn't as good as it use to be
Timely video. Took a Drumel to my blades in the hidden fiddle yard only last week! But had not thought about the movement issue will take another look. Also found a couple of blades with a slight twist and or low vs the stock rail.
Good spot Howard. Regards Charlie
More sound advice cheers Charlie. I can't remember ever having any issues with my code 75 Peco points, I did however switch the frog polarity which is what I have to do on my hand built track anyway. Its certainly not a waste of time, if it solves the issues you are having, its a no brainer to carry this out.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Nige.
Thanks for another useful video, Charlie. I think part of this problem is that some years ago PECO made the code 100 tiebars narrower. I have been using PECO code 100 track & points for 40 years & the tiebars on my older points are wider than current products. Also the blades are probably being produced from quite old moulds (or however they are made) as PECO don't seem to check that the blade ends are profiled correctly.
A final point is that too many new wagons have incorrect back to back measurements. I find this is especially the case with plastic axles. Recent brand new Bachmann tank wagons were all "out of gauge" & had to be reset. Once reset I also put a little superglue on the inside of the wheel/axle which seems to keep them in gauge.
Interesting points Pat, thanks.
Thanks, Charlie. Layout pending.
Good luck with your project NBA.
great tip charlie i'm on the case. Thank you.
Glad to help mate.
Very useful Charlie. I am going to the train room later..it would be interesting to see if thisworks in N Gauge.
I am already modifying my points with a tiny piece of plasticard to stop wheels dropping into the vee of the electrofrog. Cheers, Bob
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob.
Very impressed most helpful 😎
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Charlie - Thanks for the tips on getting the pecos reliable and for all your very helpful videos.
I had similar problems when resurrecting my HO gear to return to the hobby after many years away. I had four old Atlas switches, the ones with the actual rails, not the bent sheet metal kind, and a bunch of newer ones that have the bent metal points. My old switch machines were rusted solid but the newer ones worked. The problem was that approaching from the point side would eventually result in a derailment. After many attempts to adjust the switch machines over the course of a couple of years by following advice from the internet did little to solve the problem, I finally was able to get these old switches reliable. Here's what to do:
1: check the plastic frogs for wear. Either file the plastic or use styrene plastic inserts to recondition them, On my switches I only needed to file the plastic to recondition the pointy end on the frogs. This should reduce the chances that wheels will "pick" the frog;
2: file the ends of the points for a better fit against the stock rails;
3: Check the height of the movable points and shim them if they are too low. This, along with step 2, lessens chance that wheels will "pick" the points ( I think so anyway) ;
4: if the rivets are loose where the rails pivot they can be made snug using superglue. Apply a small amount of liquid s.g. to the edge of the rivet and move the points back and forth until the glue sets. This should get rid of some of the slop while still allowing the points to pivot. Newer Atlas switches use a different design for the pivots. You can also use a punch and anvil to snug them up but be careful;
5: this is the big one - throw away the old switch machines and get new solenoid or other type of switch machine. The supplied switch machines will not reliably hold the points against the stock rails! If you purchase new Atlas switch machines, don't get the switches that include the switch machine.
If you care to, watch my video on the switch machine problem and a solution on my channel. I have video on fixing the frogs as well but it is awaiting editing and uploading.
Since I've made these repairs to the worst switch on my test track several months ago I've not had a single derailment, even running my old Mantua "Mike" 2-4-2 over it at full chat!
Hope this is of some use.
-Dave
Well what a great and detailed comment Dave.
Some great advice.
Thanks Charlie.
Forgot one:
6: Check the track gauge. Pay particular attention to the diverging point rail as well as the straight point rail as they can warp over time. Carefully bend them back into gauge.
Also I neglected to emphasize that the derailments also occurred regularly when running the non-diverging points setting.
Oh, if you watched my video, I found the missing spring on the carpet about a week ago. It just suddenly appeared. Go figure!
-Dave
Good information, thank you.
Thanks Rob
Hello there Charlie. I commented on a previous video about improving Lima internally framed Siphon Gs with Bachmann BR Mk1 (B1) bogies. I was on a forum about them and a lot of guys are talking garbage. As a NER buff (who runs loads of ex GWR Siphons), if I'm going to pass comment on GWR I first off do my research. If you look at GW Siphons ( HMRS Slinn and Clarke) and refer to page 103 you will see a line drawing of the GWR 8'6" ex articulated stock bogie and it is identical to the BR B1 bogie. The Lima Siphon G is built to GWR Diagram 0.33. The GWR 8'6" ex articulated coach bogie was used under Diagrams 0.33, 0.59, and M.34. This was the bogie which formed the design concept for the BR Mk1 (B1) bogie and the two bogies are virtually identical aesthetically. So using Bachmann Mk1 B1 bogies under Lima inside framed Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs would be just abous as near as d..n it prototypically accurate.
Hi David, thanks for the background detail. The book starts at £25 used so I’ll give that one a miss. With my Siphons I’m trying to replicate a diverted rake passing through Castle Cary hauled by a Hymek.
My collection of Bachmann bogies is slowly expanding.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway: Hi there Charlie. I've had a copy of the book for a while as being a NER guy I wanted to get my Siphons correct as good research is essential to reasonably good modelling (I mean good not to the point of counting rivets). I get hacked off with 'rivet counters' pointing out that my Lima Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs are not correct because of the bogies as they should have GW 'American' bogies'. When I point out that no they shouldn't as the GW 8'6" ex articulated stock bogies ran underneath many of the Diagram 0.33 Siphon Gs (on which the Lima model is based) and that this is the bogie on which the BRMk1 B1 bogie is based and is aestheticaly no different to the GW bogie (the only difference was the spring strength) then they shut their mouths as the hole they have dug themselves is already deep enough.
Great stuff David.
Thanks Charlie for another great informative video. I have 2 Peco Code 100 3 Way Turnouts (Points) on my layout. One worked perfect and still does strait out of the box. The other one constantly derailed on selecting left turnout direction. The place I buy most of my stuff from sent out the same day a replacement. Received it a few days later, Installed it and worked perfect. Since then have never had a problem with them and my layout gets a work out. I think it is the luck of the draw just like anything you get good ones and bad ones.
An interesting point B68, thanks.
Charlie is dead on with his suggestions.
I would like to share from my personal experience dealing with Peco Turnouts what I have observed. 1) Do not under any circumstances make them a tight fit. Give them some wiggle room. Any pressure on them by a tight fit will cause them to bend/flex and in turn derailments. 2) Do not force them to lay flat. If it doesn't want to fine, if it does fine also, makes no difference in performance, let the turnout decide. Once again forcing them to lay flat if they do not want to will cause them to bend/flex and you got it derailments. 3) Sometimes no mater how hard you try nothing works, a defective turnout is just plain defective but rare for Peco.
What a great idea with the styrene strips. I did not even know the curved turnouts had such a problem , and my plan is to have 5 of them in total.
One other thing, after much suffering with trying to bend over my layout to do something to the points that I should have done earlier, I know inspect and test any new points being put in at my work desk. I also tend to give them a start at weathering while there as that avoids my having to lean over my layout just to do weathering. YMMV.
myyou tubeacct I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well, if you insist upon continuing posting such excellent videos then I feel compelled to find them useful. The answer is quite simple, drop severely the quality of your videos and I will stop being impressed.
Nice one Charlie - simple but effective. The simple tweaks are always the best. Can we have more Chadwick and less McKinley please?!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Randal.
Very informative Charlie. My track laying starts in just over 2 weeks. All Peco 100. Keep up the good work. Pete.
ps, do you want to buy 2 brand new 3 way points? :)
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Pete and hopefully found it useful too.
Two, three way points, I think that I’ll pass.
Regards Charlie
I use Tortoise motors, I use 0.9 mm wire for the activation of the point. I also mount the point motor so that a slight tension is put on the blade holders so that it cannot do what yours have done.
However I also use solenoid motors so I will be modifying those points. Thanks its a good tip.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Sam.
Great tip Charlie, will be doing this to all my peco points
Glad to help John.
Charlie with your coupling probllems why don't you use SYMOBA close couplings they have a NEM pocket on the extention for KD couplings to just clip them in what ever extention variation you need I use them on my marklin wagons and coaches they are available in UK produced in Germany maybe expensive but worth looking at I am a great fan 😁 of programs good luck regards len marks Cape town South Africa
Thanks for this idea Charley, checking Evergreen's catalogue they make a .030" x .060" x 14" / .75mm x 1.5mm x 35cm version as well - if a slightly wider strip is needed. It's part number is 133.
Thanks Paul , great info, I shall check it out. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. This is again a very useful and informative video. I've used peco code 100 track and live frog points for a number of years without any real problems. Providing the points are laid perfectly flat they should be ok . Having said that, occasionally I've had to adjust the plastic catch rails by bending the ends in a little. Why they don't make these out of metal I don't know. The only serious issue was with Dapol six wheeled milk tank wagons that kept derailing and I ended up fitting Bachmann wheels and the problem was solved. Apparently this is a common complaint with these wagons. Keep well and stay safe. Cheers Chris.
Chris I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Very interesting Charlie. I wonder how many of us have got rid of stock because of constant derailing when it was the points to blame and not the stock at all. Maybe see you at Warley if you are attending, regards Bobby 'T'.
Thanks Bobby, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. I’ll be at Warley on the Saturday.
Hi Charlie such a simple fix when you khow how!
Steve
But it takes us so long to learn.
I have 5 Hornsby points plus the motors, the motors work how they should of the points but when the points are fitted they don’t work at all .thank you Kevin
Sorry Kevin, but I have no Hornby points or Hornby point motors. Perhaps you could ask on a Facebook page.
Hello Charlie, I have done this to peco and it can help on atlas turnouts also. The atlas are very loose on the slide and by adding a piece of styrene it gives more tension and operates better. Anyway this is just one of the many problems with turnouts ...good vid.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Adrian.
Spot on! Thanks.
Thanks Russell, regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie
You’re most welcome mate. Regards Charlie
Great tip Charlie! Good timing too. I am still laying track. My turnouts are made to be removed from the track work by allowing the track joiners to slide under the rails thus allowing the turnout to be easily removed. That way I can make adjustments when needed. I model with O-16.5 Peco track for American narrow gauge I will incorporate the fix while rewiring the turnouts for DCC. Nothing ruins a video more than locos and rolling stock jumping up as the train passes through a turnout.
One thing about narrow gauge is the lack of complicated track. 3 way turnouts would have been too expensive for a logging or mining railway to employ. Gives me a valid excuse not to use those on my layout.
Tip: Occasionally there is that annoying gap between sections of rails that is usually discovered later causing rolling stock to visibly bounce as it passes over the gap. Usually it occurs when bending flex track around curves. Sometimes we don't notice it until all the curve is laid. One might think the only way to fix it is to pull up the track to adjust for it. Instead one can use little squares of Evergreen styrene to fill the gap, glue it in with super glue, then file it to the contours of the rail. A little rust colored paint will hide it.
Have you done a video discussing track expansion and contraction due to changes of temperature in the train room? Also, why one should not let direct sunlight through a window fall on the layout?
Thanks for posting the materials list in the comments section. My only local hobby shop closed here October 31st. I did buy up a lot of scenery materials and Atlas Code 83 HO track to strip out for bridge guard rails. I found a source for the Evergreen styrene on eBay.
Thanks S98. My layout is in doors so I don’t have heat expansion issues. You’ll have to ask elsewhere.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My layout is indoors too. However, the temp in that room can be as much as 82 degrees in the summer so, I keep a portable A/C unit in there during the summer. During the winter the temp can drop as low as 60. I do not think that room was insulated when it was built.
Hi Charlie, another brilliant tip to try! as yet to put any track down, corresponded with you a short while ago re back to ‘basics’ in would love to see how you do your back to back points as understanding facing/trailing etc plus insulating /wiring. Kind regards Eddie🤓
It’s on the long list Edward.
Your a star!🤓
Another great handy fix ............
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob.
I've also got a custom build double slip installed and it is fitted with a range of extra drop wires leading towards the Dcc ring feed or the tortoise point motors (I'm a huge fan of them)
It might seem overkill but in the end the double slip never gives me any trouble.
Hey, if it works, great.
Such a simple solution but effective. Thanks Charlie. It would be good if Peco could supply some matching 'coloured' strips, but then that would probably be construed as an admission their product was not quite perfect.
But it only takes a drop of paint Richard. Regards Charlie
A interesting video Charlie even though I am a N-Gauge modeler myself. The peco 3 way point is a bit troublsome in Peco code 55 (N-Gauge). I used one on my old layout and ended up adding feeds while it was in situ,fiddly, but improved it no end.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting L 26.
great vlog Charlie very interesting 😂
Thanks mate
Thank you Charlie, excellent bit of very simple advice to solve an annoying problem...
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris.
Top tip for superglue, keep it in the fridge and it never goes off or clogs up the top.
Wow, I never knew that.
Superglue needs moisture to make to work, fridges these days are very dry so it’s a great place to store it.
Good video Charlie,
Thanks James
Useful info
Thanks mate
Charlie, did you enjoy your break? You are like me have to use two pairs of glasses to see anything. My guide dog is hopeless at doing that! Really great video as I am having the same problem. Never a waste of time.
So pleased that you enjoyed it Nige
This is going to be very helpful when I get my first loco (hopefully) at Christmas, a OO scale HO guage (all OOs use HO track) hornby
Thanks EH, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
No problemo,
Very ingenious solution to the blade movement issue! Please commend McKinley Railway for me! Filing the tip of the blade can go a long way in improving performance.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Flyboy.
Hi Charlie. I’ve had the same problem which is made worse when you remove the Peco springs for Tortoise/Cobalt style slow motion devices. I too have tried plastic strips but find that it binds the tie bar meaning the tortoise points actuator(being quite thin), bends more and can’t push the tie bar fully across. An alternative solution that DCC Concepts recommends for Cobalts is to bend the actuator wire so that is pushes the tie bar towards the nose of the crossing/frog and thus keeps the blades in their proper position.
Another solution I have used in my fiddle yard is a bent piece of piano wire in the four foot on top of the sleepers with one end poked down the central hole of the tie bar and the other bent round a track pin about 6 or 7 sleepers towards the nose/frog.
I’m about to start on code 75 Peco points on the scenic part of my layout and I think there is less of an issue with them as they are hinged/fixed at the end and can’t move forward. So that’s my favourite solution: use Peco code 75 and avoid Peco code 100! Hugh
Thanks for the info Hugh.
I always use thicker piano type wire on my tortoises.