Ya although there isn't footage of me under the car. I was and boy did I feel like I hated life and gave up. Going to make sure the 350 that's replacing the 305 has fresh new plugs when it goes in
Remember:: Lefty Lossy / Righty Tighty. Also with the amount of rust on that engine, it would probably be very helpful to use something like Liquid Wrench or equivalent type of product to spray on nuts, bolts and in this case spark plugs where they go into the heads. This will help break down the rust bond between the plugs and the cast iron head, allowing the plugs to be removed. Not sure if you know this or not, but the best way to get to the spark plugs on this car is up from underneath. Get the car up off the ground with a floor jack and appropriate jack stands. Most important, do this on a cement/concrete slab. If you use jack stands on dirt/ground, you'll run the risk of them sinking into the ground with you under the car. If you have access to a vehicle lift, that would be even better. Once you get the car off the ground, you can access all of the spark plugs with reasonable effort. If this Pontiac still has the factory heat shields in place, you'll have a very difficult time getting up and around those from the top of the engine. Nearly impossible actually. The #8 plug is the hardest and for that reason, many mechanics who serviced these vehicles in the 80's and 90's used to just skip that plug and not replace it (that's what my mechanic did in the early 90's to my Pontiac). On a happier note, the seats seemed to really clean up really nicely. Good luck and thanks for posting the video. Looking forward to more.
Easy solution. Before you apply the socket wrench to the bolt or nut, take it in your hand and see which way the handle ratchets (clicks). Grab the socket in one hand and the handle in the other. With the socket opening facing away from you, turn the wrench. If the socket doesn't move but the handle ratchets (clicks) while moving counterclockwise, it's tightening. If the socket doesn't move and the handle ratchets (clicks) while moving clockwise, it's loosening. Don't feel bad. I have a cousin who busted the first two wheel studs when he was trying to change a flat tire. He too was going the wrong way. There are instances of reverse threads too. So also do research beforehand. Such as differentials for example. Last year when I was rebuilding the Borg Warner 9 bolt in my 87' GTA, the bolts for the ring gear are reversed. Doing my research before the job paid off for me. @@Eggscelentrides
Any history from the previous owner about the health of the engine before it sat for all those years? It may have been toast before it sat all those years. If it were me and I was dead-on serious about seeing if I could get that engine to run, I'd first remove the plugs and spray into each cylinder some type of lubricant to help breakdown any rust between the rings and the cylinder walls. Unfortunately, you're probably right about it being toast. Most probable cause of not being able to turn the engine by hand is most, if not all of the internal moving parts are rusted/fused together.@@Eggscelentrides
I have an 86 z28 camaro 305 TPI that I've been trying to make a daily driver and it fights me tooth and nail. It runs when it wants to and not when I want it to
My first car was an 85 trans am, took me two days to change the spark plugs, it was miserable, impossible from the bottom
Ya although there isn't footage of me under the car. I was and boy did I feel like I hated life and gave up. Going to make sure the 350 that's replacing the 305 has fresh new plugs when it goes in
Remember:: Lefty Lossy / Righty Tighty. Also with the amount of rust on that engine, it would probably be very helpful to use something like Liquid Wrench or equivalent type of product to spray on nuts, bolts and in this case spark plugs where they go into the heads. This will help break down the rust bond between the plugs and the cast iron head, allowing the plugs to be removed.
Not sure if you know this or not, but the best way to get to the spark plugs on this car is up from underneath. Get the car up off the ground with a floor jack and appropriate jack stands. Most important, do this on a cement/concrete slab. If you use jack stands on dirt/ground, you'll run the risk of them sinking into the ground with you under the car. If you have access to a vehicle lift, that would be even better. Once you get the car off the ground, you can access all of the spark plugs with reasonable effort. If this Pontiac still has the factory heat shields in place, you'll have a very difficult time getting up and around those from the top of the engine. Nearly impossible actually. The #8 plug is the hardest and for that reason, many mechanics who serviced these vehicles in the 80's and 90's used to just skip that plug and not replace it (that's what my mechanic did in the early 90's to my Pontiac).
On a happier note, the seats seemed to really clean up really nicely. Good luck and thanks for posting the video. Looking forward to more.
See I have this issue where if it's inverted I forget which way is which, as well as I was dumb and used a breaker bar
Easy solution. Before you apply the socket wrench to the bolt or nut, take it in your hand and see which way the handle ratchets (clicks). Grab the socket in one hand and the handle in the other. With the socket opening facing away from you, turn the wrench. If the socket doesn't move but the handle ratchets (clicks) while moving counterclockwise, it's tightening. If the socket doesn't move and the handle ratchets (clicks) while moving clockwise, it's loosening. Don't feel bad. I have a cousin who busted the first two wheel studs when he was trying to change a flat tire. He too was going the wrong way.
There are instances of reverse threads too. So also do research beforehand. Such as differentials for example. Last year when I was rebuilding the Borg Warner 9 bolt in my 87' GTA, the bolts for the ring gear are reversed. Doing my research before the job paid off for me. @@Eggscelentrides
Loving the content and the learning curves along the way. Keep it up. This thing will be doing burnouts soon.
Thank you! I'm getting better with each video
Needs a replacement engine to do burnouts we think the 305 is toast
Any history from the previous owner about the health of the engine before it sat for all those years? It may have been toast before it sat all those years. If it were me and I was dead-on serious about seeing if I could get that engine to run, I'd first remove the plugs and spray into each cylinder some type of lubricant to help breakdown any rust between the rings and the cylinder walls. Unfortunately, you're probably right about it being toast. Most probable cause of not being able to turn the engine by hand is most, if not all of the internal moving parts are rusted/fused together.@@Eggscelentrides
@SoGoYoko that kind of gets explained in the 1st video
I have an 86 z28 camaro 305 TPI that I've been trying to make a daily driver and it fights me tooth and nail. It runs when it wants to and not when I want it to
Oof that sounds like a pain
@@Eggscelentrides oh it is
That thing has been under water or someplace very moist good luck guys .
Never been under water, was along side a shed under trees for years