It's Hard To Argue Against Being STRONGER | Integrating Strength, Finger Training, and Mobility
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise - focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops.
Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to solve this problem. Many programs are more or less stolen from training plans for other sports, which presents a whole host of issues.
Strength training takes time, both to execute and to recover from. The recovery is the biggest issue. In fact, people who stall out strength training frequently get everything else right - load, volume, frequency - but they under-recover. Why? Because the overload we experience in strength doesn’t “feel” like hard exercise. The sets are short, the cardiovascular component almost nonexistent, and there is never any nausea.
In order to get stronger you need to really overload your system. If you really overload your system you need to rest a lot between efforts. If you rest a lot between efforts, you get bored and start the next set too soon. The solution? Find something productive to do between sets.
Heavy strength training and finger strength training are almost an ideal marriage. The high total body loads of the strength sets tend not to affect the finger strength sets and vice versa. However, simply alternating between the two can still result in too little rest. In order to address this issue, we add much-needed mobility work between these activities, and the result is an ideal mixture of effective training and an efficient use of time. We call this Integrated Strength.
The Integrated Strength template consists of three exercises done in short “circuit” fashion: a finger strength set, a heavy resistance set, and a mobility exercise. These circuits take about 5 minutes each. We have found that three rounds of this circuit, about 15 minutes, is the ideal training duration. By building three different circuits, you can create an effective and quick training session that clocks in under an hour.
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Very well layed out! In my opinion it highlights an extremely underrated topic: Training for maintenance. In my experience, I can maintain my strength with about a 3rd or half of the training I do to progress. So, not only for performance phase do I need to keep my adaptations, but also if I have a phase that concentrates on endurance. Either way, knowing the minimum you have to do to maintain, allows you to focus all of what's left of your time & effort on progressing one aspect. Then you swtich the focus on something else & repeat. 🙂
'Continuing to show up' - that's what I'm determined to do. Some days I have better workouts than other days however I just show up each week for all my sessions and try and do my best.
Ive been doing this for a while, and the heavy stength exercise csn REALLY increase hormones, increasing finger strength substantially. My common triple is deadlifts, splits pulses, and max hangs, and my max hangs are always stronger after deadlifts than they are in isolation.
Your Pitch One plan was such a boon to me when I was starting to train again after a long long break. Good to see your content here!
Would love to see a similar video about your current thinking on power training. Big fan of Logical Progression. Thanks for this amazing resource!
Thanks Dan, Good idea!
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At 4:58, you say “I’m going to do three sets of my heavy dead lifts then 30-50 seconds for mobility”
Do you mean 3 reps of deadlifts? Or do you do three sets of three for each round?
3 reps for each round in this example. So 9 deadlifts total in that block.
Nice 👍 thanks for the informations
Can't believe this amazing content is free! Also, what's the rock climb/area @9:30?
The route is "Addiction" at the Sinks Canyon Main Wall.
Any tips for diet? I am not sure how much protein I should take because I don't want to build muscle and I am not sure if strength needs any specific nutrition or amount.
Protein isn't the driver for hypertrophy...rather, hypertrophy is driven by medium-intensity, higher volume training. The general recommendation for athletes is somewhere close to 1g per pound of bodyweight, but you should probably consult a dietician for specifics.