I feel like this was probably the best information, by far, that I have ever gotten on core training. So glad this came up as a recommendation on TH-cam.
@Steve, I'm curious if you can simply skip the first category of abdominal training (#1 stability) if the athlete is conditioned enough. Why not go straight to dynamic stability if someone can hold a plank for 3 minutes?
For sure. Probably 90% of climbers are solid here, but we've made the mistake of assuming that just being a climber meant you were strong enough in the midsection. This is not always the case.
Move your elbows away from the center or come up to your hands and try to go overhead til you can't go any further and hold. Really impressive if you can hold that for longer than 10 seconds ;)
How do you guys feel about bar exercises? I honestly prefer doing floor core as I feel like the bar exercises can strain my elbows a bit but that's just me personally. Do you see bar core as being beneficial for simultaneously training lock off strength?
I tend to agree with you Peter. Lots of hanging can be hard on fingers / elbows/ shoulders for some people...but the bar is also an excellent tool. Totally a personal preference.
Really interesting shift in perspective away from core training as endurance...all those long plank holds and crunch repetitions lol But I'm curious I don't think you mentioned TRX etc which I assume can be good core work while also training shoulders and grip and can increase intensity/weight
I have never been convinced that core exercises were a good use of a climbers time/energy. It seems to me that almost all of the markers of poor core strength are actually markers of poor coordination. Obviously there is some strength component, as I can feel a lot of fatigue in the midsection if I haven't been climbing in a while. However, my intuition is that climbing itself is sufficient training for this area of the body. Am I completely off base here?
Now ask yourself why someone who can make large reaches and lockoffs between tiny holds look painfully easy on vertical surfaces would appear to have "poor coordination" on ceilings.
@@erikkeever3504 that is a classic profile of a finger strength dominant person with a prominent shoulder strength deficit. Probably 50% of my clients.
@@erikkeever3504 everybody who is more into the "core strength" science knows, that its very misguided and just few people know about the high activation levels of the abdominal wall in traditional strength exercises. Its not more effective to train them in isolation.
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I feel like this was probably the best information, by far, that I have ever gotten on core training. So glad this came up as a recommendation on TH-cam.
I've been working on my climbing core video since yesterday, and yours literally just popped up on my recommended. Very well explained 👏
I'm glad you popped up in my feed. Subscribed! Thanks for the clear explanation.
Thanks for the sub!
Good content, I would not have guessed that gym training could be more impactful than activity training for climbing core
Core muscles are muscles just like the others
@@thenayancat8802 so true, so true
Thanks for the tips. Nice vid
Dude, Totally digging your insight. Ove the vid!
Great video on core strength training. Thank you.
@Steve, I'm curious if you can simply skip the first category of abdominal training (#1 stability) if the athlete is conditioned enough. Why not go straight to dynamic stability if someone can hold a plank for 3 minutes?
For sure. Probably 90% of climbers are solid here, but we've made the mistake of assuming that just being a climber meant you were strong enough in the midsection. This is not always the case.
I get to train in that range of intensity/repetitions to develop strenght but how's suppose to be doing a plank under 10 sec?
Move your elbows away from the center or come up to your hands and try to go overhead til you can't go any further and hold. Really impressive if you can hold that for longer than 10 seconds ;)
Higher intensity variations. For instance @3:50 Ken is doing a Copenhagen Plank, lots of different options to add intensity to planks.
Excellent information / insight, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
How do you guys feel about bar exercises? I honestly prefer doing floor core as I feel like the bar exercises can strain my elbows a bit but that's just me personally. Do you see bar core as being beneficial for simultaneously training lock off strength?
I tend to agree with you Peter. Lots of hanging can be hard on fingers / elbows/ shoulders for some people...but the bar is also an excellent tool. Totally a personal preference.
I just deadlift lol
Really interesting shift in perspective away from core training as endurance...all those long plank holds and crunch repetitions lol
But I'm curious I don't think you mentioned TRX etc which I assume can be good core work while also training shoulders and grip and can increase intensity/weight
Yes TRX horizontal rows, etc. can be great for this!
I have never been convinced that core exercises were a good use of a climbers time/energy. It seems to me that almost all of the markers of poor core strength are actually markers of poor coordination. Obviously there is some strength component, as I can feel a lot of fatigue in the midsection if I haven't been climbing in a while. However, my intuition is that climbing itself is sufficient training for this area of the body. Am I completely off base here?
Absolutely right!
Now ask yourself why someone who can make large reaches and lockoffs between tiny holds look painfully easy on vertical surfaces would appear to have "poor coordination" on ceilings.
@@erikkeever3504 maybe they are less skilled at steep climbing than they are at vert?
@@erikkeever3504 that is a classic profile of a finger strength dominant person with a prominent shoulder strength deficit. Probably 50% of my clients.
@@erikkeever3504 everybody who is more into the "core strength" science knows, that its very misguided and just few people know about the high activation levels of the abdominal wall in traditional strength exercises. Its not more effective to train them in isolation.
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