Easy way to Hollow your Resin 3D PRINT and save Money- Chitubox
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ส.ค. 2022
- In this video I show you how I hollow out a 3D print using Chitubox and help save you some money, all while getting the best possible print. I also share some of my personal printer settings.
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I never printed anything hollow before, but after watching your video i just printed a 23 cm hollow Godzilla, everything came ok in the first try.
I was afraid to mess my prints but it was easier than i though, thanks.
That is awesome!
Very interesting video, thank you. I've had a resin printed for a year now but have been a bit afraid to try it!! Soon I'll give it a try after I learn as much as I can about resin printing.
Absolutely love your videos. You saved me a ton of trial and error. Got my printer one day. Printing the next! My prints are incredible using your guidance.
Interesting to see someone else who is Chitubox user and just tilts and autosupports. I have had maybe 5 times I threw extra supports on something, but otherwise had no issues.
This is an absolute game changer thank you.
maaan thank you for this video. everyone else makes this process sound so much more difficult than i figured it needed to be!
I just purchased a FlashForge Foto 8.9 - I know that the initial setup may be different, but the advice you gave will be very helpful in me getting better results in my future prints. I will continue to watch your videos. Thanks
This is by far the best video about supports that I have seen, especially from a beginner’s point of view. This just clarifies everything and makes the process really easy! Great stuff.
Thank you!
The video that keeps giving! Thanks for this...I've printed quite a few large models (M3 Max) and hated the internal supports. The 3D infill seems like a better idea! Also makes sense coming from a ton of FDM experience :) Thanks!!!
Thank you for sharing these tips!!
Great video as always🔥 a little tip I found for those of us using Lychee free version. Hollow out the model in Meshmixer instead of lychee (as it only lets you add infill in the free version), and then import it to lychee and add drain holes there, that way you'll be able to add supports on the inside of the model and not be limited be the free version features!!
And thats why I don't use Lychee. To many steps to do. lol
really incredible video. made the hollowing process a lot less daunting
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent step by step instructions, its hard to find all in one instructions. Cheers!!
Thanks!
As always great video!!!
Thanks for the informative video. Will definitely try it out.
Depending on topology of the model from the inside I can imagine islands can pop up. If the 3d grid is not covering those then I guess some inside support might still be needed.
I guess this would heavily depend on the model.
Keep up the good vids
Very cool. I will try these settings out. 😉
This helped really well thank you
That was very helpful, thank you
Thanks! You saved me almost 50% of resin from what I would've used with my settings.
Thanks, it helps a lot
This was just what i was looking for
Great vid! Thanks.
Thank you! Actually helped a lot with fixing up my models in the slicer. Still printing them out but hopefully it all works out well! ^.^
Great information and thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Outstanding vid, Thank You so MUCH!
And thank you for watching!
Thank you for this very informative video. I am awaiting my first Resin 3D printer. I have been FDM printing for a bit now. I look forward to seeing more informative videos.
Glad it was helpful!
I am not sure if you have made a video about this, but I am curious how you go about adjusting the size of the model in Chitubox? Thank you@@TheCreativeCollector
Helped alot
Thank you i had problems with traped resin I never once thought about using the hole tool lol
Absolutely! You gotta add some drain holes.
This video helped me print my first print without fail. Other than that I wish I knew not to print the figure onto the build plate lol. Thanks again buddy.
Glad it helped!
Thank You.
Came to learn to hollow out to see if that was my error learned not to use pre supports apperciate the info that was prob my issue but I'm going to start hollowing stuff out and apperciate the help!
Hey question as this and think exposures settings and well lot of stuff I switched to try chitubox as well and seem to have no filmy resin having off my print going to try on more things is it recommended to hollow out smaller things like figures and put holes in those too ?
thank you!
Thanks! It'll help me a lot! Resin is quite expensive here in Brazil. One standard 1Kg bottle costs like 10% minimum wage. 😅
Oh wow that is a lot.
Thanks for this
Thank you for watching.
This works! When I try to tell others about this on the FB groups, people lose their shit. "Oh you shouldn't use infill...blah blah blah" I have not one had a failure using 5% infill with 20% support density. Although I do use rafts. It's just because of the voodoo support settings I use.
Some people just refuse to listen to reason. I've printed over 1000 prints this way and haven't had any issues from it.
This video kind of makes it look a lot easier than it usual is. You have flat surfaces to hollow. If you have no flat surfaces and it's highly detailed, you pretty much have to use the option to punch the whole perpendicular to the screen, because otherwise the hole punch direction is seemingly randomized every time you move the mouse a little and you can never get it aimed right.
I've had a ton of issues where it refuses to punch the hole, even though the hole depth is much more than the wall depth, it will say "too deep to dig or not hollowed out".
After you hollow out your model, take a look at the inside on the surface where you're going to punch a hole. If it's wavy or has lines on it, then you need to adjust your precision in the hollowing process. This will help a lot.
Thank you, great video! (Y)
If any of you are having trouble following this in the new version 2.x like I was... density has been replaced with "Touch Tip Distance" and now based on MM and no longer on a percentage. Also adding supports, then hollowing out your model (in that order) will avoid Chitubox 2.x from adding unneeded supports inside of the model. So >> position, add supports, hollow, add holes.
Thanks for the update!
Nice video, sir. I typically have successful prints but I'll give your hollow settings a go. And yes, the job run times from Chitubox to the Mono X are insane. The machine sometimes triples the run time of what Chitubox estimates. Have a good weekend. Cheers!
Yes it does! Drives me crazy
Hollowing is great for our pockets 🙌🏻.
I have a newbie question 😅. When you mix an acrylic paint with a thinner in order to use it on an airbrush. Does the paint last longer compared to using it alone on a regular brush?
The paint dries quicker when you spray it through an airbrush with thinner compared to water. But I like thinner better as for me it keeps the pigment in tact. You can use a little bit of flow improver with water so it doesn't clog the brush too often.
i have an anycubic M3 and i use anycubic Resin (Water washable+) and i want to know which settings should i put in the Chitubox Settings
Regards
Definitely something you'd have to research in some of the groups. I wouldn't have any settings for water washable resin.
Very good tips for sure. just now getting into resin printing. do you offer any guidance or help for people on your patreon page?
Yes I do! I have a discord for my patreon members where there are lots of great people who help each other as well.
Great video. I've never gone that thing with my walls before. Perhaps I'll start to.
Any chance you'll get at the Fantastic 4 Diorama from Wicked3d?
I'm finishing up Thing now.
Your settings worked really great, I had no issues at all but today I have tried doing the same thing on Chitubox v2.1 and the supports now going through inside the model. Have you tried it on v2.1?
I haven't. Just make sure you're using the 5% grid infill when hollowing
@@TheCreativeCollector thank you for replying. I was using 5% then tried some other percentages but still getting nasty supports inside the hollowed model. I switched to v1.9.5 and it works perfectly. V2 is quite fresh and people reporting a lot of issues with it so guessing they will fix the issue one day. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!
My grid 3d has way more supports in it, might be an updated version tho
Great Video! Can i use your printer settings also for an anycubic m3 plus? What about the presupported wicked models or do you also use auto support at those one?
I only use auto supports for all of my models. It should work on the M3 but make sure to do a test print first!
@@TheCreativeCollector okay thank you!
Quick question: If I wanted to print the zelda sword, won't the weight of it make it drop if its printing upside down? I just bought an Elegoo Saturn 2 ( I haven't set it up yet), and also, would I need to put in supports inside all models if it's hollowed out?
Also If I kept your settings for all projects, is that a good idea or nah? I'm trying to get my head around everything, I'm excited and nervous at the same time
So if you're printing a sword for cosplay, I recommend you print it in FDM. It's much more durable because resin is more brittle and using it can make it snap in half. As far as supports on the inside, I dont use anything other that the 5% grid infill like I show in the video.
Quick question. Did you have to do anything to get Chitubox working with your Anycubic photon mono x? Lychee sliced files work fine, chitubox files (the same pwmx file type) are broken and won’t even display.
No. Chitubox had the printer pre loaded in the software
Do flush holes interfere with using wash and cure station? I feel like it could fill up IPA or Simple Green (what I use), is this a problem?
No. The purpose of the drain holes is to get the IPA in there so it can flush out all of the excess resin from the inside. That'll keep it from splitting or cracking and getting trapped resin out.
Hello!! Thanks!!! I`m just starting on Resin printing and did`t realise that Chitubox would be so hard to learn lol. My Chitubox its 2.1, has some improvements, do you already use it? Could you please share your settings if you already upgrade to this version? Would be fantastic. Thanks!!! Regards
I'm still using the 1.9.4 version. I find it has the better settings.
@@TheCreativeCollector great! Thanks!
would you still recommend 1.8mm thickness for something that will get handled quite often?
Yes it should be fine
Hey man! Quick question. Did you ever use or heard about someone using something to fill the model after it's printed? I make them for selling and the heavier feel is just nicer and makes it feel more valuable. I tried polyester resin and plaster and the model cracked, both from the heat and fumes of the resin and the humidity of the plaster. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
I've used casting resin in small doses so the heat doesnt warp the model but I've heard some people use sand or modge podge.
@@TheCreativeCollector Yeah, using resin in small doses might do the trick! I'll definitely try it out. Thanks!
I tested this infil setting with slicing a torso for a superman figure. There was a huge island showing it will print before the infill support brace is even close to it, so in my mind, that would be an immediate failure. Just checking with you if I am missing something??
I'm not sure what you're talking about until I see it, but I didn't have any problems with it. And I use the same infill for all of my prints.
what do you do when you hollow and either end up with resin pockets or with unsupported islands inside the model?
It's rare but if it happens I just punch a hole in that part or use the repair option and see if that fixes it.
Any particular reason you have transition layer count set to 0 as well as time-off delay? Also do you change printing profiles depending on type of resin you are using? Your settings are way different than what I currently have for Mono x using Siraya Tech build resin.
For what I'm printing those settings are unnecessary and I've found the time off delay can cause burnout in the screen eventually so I keep it off. And the way I have them tweaked I basically run the same settings for all different kinds of resin. There's no need to change unless the resin calls for longer exposure times.
@@TheCreativeCollector Word, thanks for the quick reply!
I auto generated some supports for a base and I used 5% infill but the supports still go through the model?
They shouldn't. I've never had them ho through it
Hi, I want to know something about resin prints. Which colour resin hides the detail of the print? I know it's weird question. But I need to know if gray hides details better or black.
I'm not sure why you would want to hide details 🤔 if you mean which one shows details better then I would say grey.
With such small holes, how do you cure the inside? UV leds are usually wider than that.
Because I print in only 1.8mm thickness you really don't need UV curing the inside. It cures throughout.
if i can ask, do you still need to cure the inside of the model with that method?
Because I print in 1.8mm thickness, you don't need to unless you want to. Any thicker then you may want to.
I have a jupiter se would 5% infill be ok with a 1/6 scale model?
Yes it would
I'm going to try this, but question, I see an island inside the model, does the 5% infill take care of this?
Yes. I didn't have any issues with it.
Do you have any experience with 1/12 & 1/10 scale figures? I tried some and got really bad suction forces that kept taking everything off the supports
You can still hollow those out if you use thin walls but yeah, they need more supports and better orientation so they don't pull off
Did I hear somewhere correctly that if the wall thickness is less than 1.5 that this uv will cure the inside through the wall during the curing process? or am I crazy?
At 1.5mm the UV cures through the inside, yes.
could i use these settings on my photon mono ?? thank you
Yes. I've used them on one myself
Question. Generally, I upscale my prints from 32mm. To either 60mm or 75mm plus. I'm having no problem hollowing the figure. But, I can not install the drain hole. I get something that looks like cylinder. Yes, I'm using your settings. Any thoughts?
You'll need to make sure the hole is deep enough to drill in. I usually set mine for 5mm
@@TheCreativeCollector Thanks.... I'll try that
I started using these and I seem to get large “caves” (not really sure what else to call it) in my prints. I printed a Flash head sculpt and he’s missing half his face, for example. Have you ever had that issue? Its obvious the settings work, so I’m wondering if it’s a coincidence. Is it possible there are parts inside of the model that need to be supported?
I haven't had those issues. Are you using presupported files? I use auto supports and never use presupported.
@@TheCreativeCollector I don’t, I use auto supports in Chitubox. I’m gonna take a look and see if it’s just a coincidence and if there are some islands within the print that are being missed! BTW, the support settings are perfect. I used to struggle with removing supports but these come right off
What UV power do you have your Mono X set at?
I have mine at 70%
Do you ever check for islands after slicing?
Every time. I usually don't have any issues with them though.
Hello, I am using M3 Premium. I found my printer thanks to a shared plugin. Should I use your settings? I select my Lychee printer and print. the platforms of the models are problematic. I am very new and I need your help.
You can try those settings and it should be ok. Do a test print first just to make sure.
Can you show me your Elegoo settings please. I have a mars 2 pro and trying to print a squirrel but it falls off the supports even thoughI have hollowed it out to your settings in this video. Thank you.
I would but I don't have any Elegoo printers other than my Mars, which I haven't used in a year. Check out the "My Secret Settings" video. I have some universal settings on there that should point you in the right direction.
@@TheCreativeCollector I will, thanks
First off... I'd love to say how much I enjoy your content. This was a great video, but I am struggling. CHITUBOX 2.1 is now current and many of these settings aren't 1:1 any longer. I think I found most of the equivalents but when I follow this step by step, it is still building supports inside the model despite having done the 3d 5% infill. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I haven't used the newest version so I'm not familiar with it. I'm still using the 1.9.4 version
@@TheCreativeCollector Thanks. Might make for a good new video. :) Also Did you have one dealing with support bumps? I may have missed it. Thanks!!!
@@TheCreativeCollector Hi dude.... I just wanted to let you know I spoke with the dev team and they directed me to the setting in 2.x version of Chitubox to resolve this issue. I figured at some point you're gonna need the printer support and want to make the move to the current version as well. So hopefully this spares you the frustration. This simple setting evaded me for some reason. Go to the three lined top left menu --> Settings --> Function --> uncheck "enable shell support". Thanks again for all your videos they inspired me to grab a resin printer and I'm attempting my first print and paint job. Have a good one.
I've just got my anycubic mono 4k but it's only recognising PMWA files my friends anycubic mono 4k saves as PMWO so the files he sent me aren't working any idea whats happening here? I only got it 2 days ago and don't the test print last night it's awesome but trying to find videos on this as the 4k seems to read what the mono x does compared to the older mono my friend has
I'd check with someone from the Anycubic FB group. I don't have any clue unless your slicer only recognizes certain file properties.
how do the drainage holes help on that bust if it prints upside down?? Unless im looking at this wrong.
So the purpose of them really is for suction first. That way the model doesn't float off your supports. When you turn the model over some resin will come out, and it'll still allow you to wash the inside resin out.
@@TheCreativeCollector gotcha! So I am new this. I’m about to order myself the Saturn 2. And I’m just doing a deep dive into everything so I can use the machine with confidence.
Here is a question….after you print and have everything washed and cured, can you fill the hollow with something to give it a better sense of weight?? And then plug the hole with something.
You can. Some people fill with different things like sand or casting resin. Although if you use casting resin keep in mind when that stuff cures it gets hot, so adding too much at a time can warp your print or bore holes in it. So be careful.
@@TheCreativeCollector appreciate the tips man! I subscribed as well! I come from a computer modeling and digital sculpting background, but I’ve only ever 3D printed something once on an FDM printer that wasn’t mine.
Not sure if I understood the Size for Supports you had, but was it 0.4mm Contact size to the modell?
Yes
@@TheCreativeCollector damn. And i try to work with 0.18-0.24
After washing the inside of the model wouldn't that clear out the uncured resin?
Yes but you gotta make sure that none is trapped it pockets of tge model or it won't get cleaned out
Slightly late to the party! This may seem like a stupid question, considering you mentioned it partly in the video, but can just using the infill at 5% support a "roof" on a model without internal supports? Other programs such as VoxelDance add internal supports to hold the "roof" up, while Chitubox doesn't. I understand internal supports are an issue but I cannot understand how the model will print without them, as surely the roof will droop resulting in failure. Many thanks.
It should definitely support it
any tips for making sure resin sticks to build plate and doesn't fall onto the FEP?
Level bed, proper exposure times and retract rate.
@@TheCreativeCollector i really appreciate all of the help. just woke up to another successful print this morning.
Awesome!
@@TheCreativeCollector spoke a little too soon, while the print didn't fail there is some noticable shift line towards the base.
@@TheCreativeCollector what is the ideal retraction speed? I'm using 90 , and a lot?
I cant see the grid3d drop down feature on my chitubox free version, is it a paid version?
No its the free one. Version 1.9.4
Hmm I figured out how to hollow it and add the holes , but what I can't figure out is why on my screen it keeps showing the hollowing going on ?
There's a setting on top for animation process. It does that when you hollow it.
Are you still using that configuration today on the photon mono x or did you change something? I ask you why I just bought one and I want some advice I am using the basic gray resin from anycubic
I'm still using those settings.
@@TheCreativeCollector ok thank you very much i will try it
@@TheCreativeCollector Could you tell me what firmware version do you have? in your photon mono x I have to update mine. it doesn't recognize my chitubox files
Go to Anycubics website and download the plug in. They have pre sets for the Photon Mono X there
@@TheCreativeCollector Finally, the power of the uv screen, in what percentage does it have it? It is that how I will use its configuration I want to take everything as it is if I can to avoid problems and later as they learn I change one thing or another
I can't seem to punch holes with chuichi. I get errors. I saw some folks mentioned Saving stl and restart but that isn't working. Any suggestions?
You can do that, but make sure you have the correct depth on your punch and you're hollowing out your model. You can't punch a hole on a solid model.
Thanks. I tried same settings you had in video. 1.5 mm walls, hallowed than trying to make 5mm hole with 5mm depth.
Maybe my figure is too small. It isn't a bust. Looks like a mini figurine. But it is kinda a chunky character. So I was worried about resin getting trapped
Anybody know how to not have supports being printed inside the hollow model?
Been getting IPA trapped inside and its a pain removing it.. even with multiple drain holes.
Look at my latest live stream. I go over exactly how to avoid this.
@@TheCreativeCollector thank you. Will do. You the man!
Why do I see so many people lifting the model off the plain and supports underneath is there a reason for it
If ots a flat surface they do it because of suction issues. Otherwise if you don't have supports under it, it can print distorted or not at all.
Do you sell your painted models?
Not at the moment
how do you cure the inside??
You can use a small UV light in the drain holes, however printing at the thickness I listed you don't have to do that. It cures all the way through.
@@TheCreativeCollector oh okay sweet. I have a cure station and wasn't sure how i was going to cure the inside thanks!
my chitubox doesn't have "denisty(%)" option instead it says touch tip distance(mm) and middle distance(mm)
What version are you using?
@@TheCreativeCollector newest version its chitubox pro that came with elegoo jupiter
I’d suggest hollowing before you start moving it around
Doesn't make any difference
How to print a solid piece without hollow.
Just put it on the slicer and support it. Make sure to use a lot of supports
I've tried so many different ways to use chitubox it will not put holes where I want, it's infuriating
Are you digging the hole with enough depth? You have use it deep enough depending on the thickness of your walls when you hollow it.
@TheCreativeCollector yes , it puts it in another place (nowhere close to what my mouse icon shows, or the hole spans sideways)its like it doesn'trecognise the walls. I use same settings on lychee with no issues. 2-3-4-5m hole 5m deep, I've adjusted depth. I've even had it put a hole on bed- completely off model, on the build plate.....I'm like "how is this even possible?"
On another note, I've tried your print settings and LOVED IT! THANK YOU!!!!! I have a monoX 6k, I've printed out.Lara Croft from tombraider - sanix stl , your settings worked