I wanted to take a moment and say THANK YOU! It's been over 20 years since I did my own rotors and pads; but between that and your video, I had everything I needed! Very helpful, very methodical, very detailed! The ONLY thing I would add is that I added Permatex Anti-Seize (grey tube) between the inside of the rotor cap and the wheel hub...but this is, of course, optional. I also needed to go through a bedding procedure (after pumping the brakes to move the piston in) before my brakes were braking like normal again (but that was the fun part of the replacement!)
There is one very important trick with the respect the spring clip replacement. If you happen to put them on with little or no effort, you have installed them incorrectly. Doing it incorrectly will A; drive you insane as you try to determine why your brake pedal is so mushy. B: Make you go even more insane as you start to try bleeding the brake lines and start contemplating a master cylinder. You went past that part quite fast and it is very important to get them right. If you edited in a short piece of how those spring clips should be on the outside of the caliber bracket and why you have to use that screw driver to pull the clip up and over the end, it would help with that last important installation step. Other wise a good video.
The T-5's have the larger brake setup in 2006 so they will be a bit different however the essential information from this video can be used to help you.
I liked this video overall. Too often cleaning the calper frames is skipped. One note, the time to indlect the caliper piston boot is before the piston is pushed back, and it should be rinsed off eith brake clean and lightly lubribated before pushing it in.
Hello, typically you'll need to change them at every other pad change however its always best to measure the rotors at every brake change to make sure they're not below the minimum thickness noted on the rotor hat.
Nice straight forward instruction video. I did notice that the brake hose was frayed and almost coming apart! I would have replaced it, and if saved for a different video at least point it out.
Thanks mate you made it looks so easy thumb up ... My question is .. is it the same steps for my old Volvo s40 1998 .. planing to do it my self on 4 wheels
I'm old school and always open the bleeder when I push back the piston. The reason was that you never push fluid backward into the ABS. Things may have changed over the years but back in the day working on Jaguars there was more than a few ABS valves / pumps that were destroyed by pushing fluids backward. Dirt ...maybe but the cost of those ABS valves were $1500 and it was much easier to open a bleed valve.
Jay - Nice job. Love the vid. Adding to my reference library. I believe process is the same for the XC60. Any comments you can share on the differences / similarities between the two would be appreciated.
Great eyes, I was reading all the comments about the bad brake lines, I didn't even notice during the video. Having you zero in at 5:00 really brings it home!
Zip tie trick is great. Procedure is identical for 2006 XC70 except I don't have that backing bracket behind the carrier bracket which is nice. Also, I suspect this guy likes the smell of brake cleaner because he uses it on everything. Study the way he puts on the caliper spring. Much easier than the way I did it.
Video was so easy to follow. This was my first brake job and it went smoothly. I also need to change the rear brakes and hope you have an easy to follow video for the rear. My one concern after changing the front is that the pedal seems soft after pumping the brakes. What do I need to do to fix this? Do I need to bleed the brakes? If so, any videos available showing how to do this? Thanks in advance for your response.
Are the rear brakes the same? Oh, I'll be replacing the brake fluid as well do I start with the Right rear brake line on the S60 or is the ABS Module in the rear?
Hi. I found that forcing the piston back into the calliper caused a problem with the brake system and resulted in loss of brake pressure. I think what needs to be done here is to loosen the bleed nipple then push the piston back and allow the fluid to to pass through the nipple. Retighten the nipple when the piston is all the way back. This method means the rest of the brake system won't be affected.
Thank you! This all turned out great and stops on a dime. No pulling or vibration when braking so I know the rotors are on true.however I hear a grinding on both sides when accelerating or rolling in general . Could it be that the new rotors are thicker and I need to pry the shield back a little? Mine were the 11" diameter x 286mm thick. Pre turned. Got them from Napa. It sounds like the shields. I verified everything is locked down and the springs are in the correct position. Any thoughts? Thanks.
A good majority of ventilated brake rotors are non directional. You can tell if a brake rotor is directional based on the orientation of the fins inside the brake rotor and there are usually different part numbers for the rotor between the left and right side on the same axle. The S60 featured in this video uses a non directional brake rotor so no special attention needs to be payed when mounting them to the vehicle.
I am not an expert on volvos or cars, but for me I always change the rotors when I change the pads. but if you dont want too just make sure they are within spec and have them turned. :)
I want to replace my 2016 S60 stock 300mm Calipers to the 336mm R-Design ones for increased braking power is it just the calipers and pads replacement or other parts are involved too?
You pump the brakes to push the cylinder and pad against the rotor not "to build hydraulic pressure". That way, when you need the brake for the first time, the piston won't have to travel a long distance before seizing the rotor. Also I don't believe lubing the back of the pad does anything. Lubing the sliding parts of the pad sure, but not the whole back. Also you should use a torque wrench for final torque when putting it back together.
you do good vids and now happily a subcriber. I've done many pad changes on other cars and dont suspect this should be any difference. I have the pins out and have not be able to remove the caliper from the frame, over an hour of prying and banging and just seems hung up and wont pull off, i have compressed a bit the piston while still on the frame to try to create more clearance. Don't get it, any suggestions? Why do small simple jobs too often find a way to be not so?
Thanks for subscribing, Barry! That is strange that the caliper is hung up in the carrier. I would just remove the carrier/caliper bracket altogether if you can't get it separated.
Nice work! I'v been looking for a guide that shows how to upgrade the breaks with original parts. (Bracket for 300-320 mm rotors) and just some 320 mm rotors. Anyone done that ? Notice: Not the R-breaks- I've got a -01 S60 T5
I was wondering the same thing. I watched another vid about only the calipers and they said you needed a torque wrench to be precise. Meanwhile he just simply tightened it?
Hey, is it necessary to put loctite (blue or red?) on the bolts that hold the caliper bracket in place when putting them back in? Going to do this job on my 01 S60 soon
I have a problem with my volvo S60 bi-fiuel 2005, I think the presion sensor of gaz CGN is not good must replace it so the car dont run on gaz the motor cut run only on petrol ? but I don't know where and how it is ? Can u help me please
1. I know what an OEM parts is. A "genuine" part is one that is what it says it is, not counterfeit, but not necessarily as good as an OEM part. 2. Neither a screwdriver not a wire brush will remove rust scale from a caliper bracket. If you aren't going to pickle them, use a file. 3. Apply a grease corrosion barrier on the caliper frame, install the abutment clips and lube them befor mounting the frame to the vehicle. 4. That'snot how to grease Bosch brake pads. The ONLY function that a grease provides on Bosch pad backs is to inhibit corrosion of the caliper body ears and piston face. They do not slide relative to the caliper The back shim is coated so there is no metal to metal contact, and the multi-layer shim is what dampens the high frequency vibration. Bosch's own install video uses NO grease on the backs. What grease is between the caliper and pad backs once installed is thousands of an inch thick, any excess is just a brake dust collector. 5. Brake dust/rust on the seal is what damages the piston. Clean the "ears" of the caliper and the face of the piston, inspect the seal for damage and clean both BEFORE compressing the piston. 6. Any contaminated fluid in the cylinder should be drained, not forced back up the brake line. Put a bleed hose on the caliper and use that to bleed fluid before or as the caliper is compressed.
6. Brake bleeder broke when opening, now stuck home without a car and can't even get to the parts store to buy a whole new caliper. Please tell, why was old fluid in the caliper so bad to take this risk ?
What are the torque specs for the caliper and bracket bolts? Also, should I use thread lock on the bolts? Will this work on an 06 S80? I already bought the kit from FCP.
This kit fits an 06 S80 w/286mm front rotors. The caliper slide pins do not need lock tight however the caliper hold down bracket bolts do. The torque is 30nm on the caliper bolts, 100nm on the caliper hold down bracket bolts.
After watching this video, I realized something. I just bought a 2006 S60 T5 (first car woo!!) and for some reason the calipers look nothing like that. They have a full frame and clip where these just have the spring clip. They still say ATE Volvo on them so I know they are an OEM front caliper, but with all the DIY videos and writeups I see, there's none with my type of caliper.Besides the frame, would there be any glaring differences I should be worried about?
After getting them done by myself, I realized that my example was one of the few 2005-2007 ones that got the XC90's 316mm front discs and calipers. Hooray for FCP and their endlessly understanding team having to deal with me. hahahaha!!
There shouldn't be a grinding noise. I would double check the dust shield to make sure it's not rubbing on anything along with the pads to make sure they're seated properly.
Hello Darlene, you usually don't have to if you're just replacing pads and rotors. You will need to be bleed the system anytime it's opened to get air out of the line. Bleeding the system will be needed when replacing a brake caliper or brake hoses/lines.
Hello Angie, the brake kit cost $304.99 and labor should be around $200 but rates will vary depending on area. A rough estimate would be $500 including labor. www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-kit-11in-quietcast-vbbrakekit1
Cool video! but be sure to mention not to get any Silicone on the Rotor or pad surface cause we know what that will do! And if there is a Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedure the manufacturer specifies.... just saying.
they are not important, only used as an assembly aid in the factory. lug bols hold your rotor on, then rust does. but you can always use a llug bolt as a substitute while working
I keep ordering the 15mm bolt as mine is missing and I keep getting a 18mm. Anyone know the part number or where to order the 15mm caliper bracket bolt?
Just done this job on my S60. Now when I apply the brakes when reversing, parking or other slow reversing, I hear a kind of clunk from the brakes. Only as I apply the brakes and only once, like they're engaging or something. And only happens when the brakes are hot, like after a long drive. Any ideas? Brakes work fine otherwise. Doesn't happen going forward.
Shop The Parts Used:
www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/S60/Brake/?year=2003&m=213&e=152
I wanted to take a moment and say THANK YOU! It's been over 20 years since I did my own rotors and pads; but between that and your video, I had everything I needed! Very helpful, very methodical, very detailed! The ONLY thing I would add is that I added Permatex Anti-Seize (grey tube) between the inside of the rotor cap and the wheel hub...but this is, of course, optional. I also needed to go through a bedding procedure (after pumping the brakes to move the piston in) before my brakes were braking like normal again (but that was the fun part of the replacement!)
You are a good mechanic.
I watch your videos to educate myself .
My s60 volvo needs rotors.
Thank you, sunflowers2925!
These video series are by far the most helpful and clear to follow. Very well put together! Keep up the good work!
There is one very important trick with the respect the spring clip replacement.
If you happen to put them on with little or no effort, you have installed them incorrectly. Doing it incorrectly will
A; drive you insane as you try to determine why your brake pedal is so mushy.
B: Make you go even more insane as you start to try bleeding the brake lines and start contemplating a master cylinder.
You went past that part quite fast and it is very important to get them right.
If you edited in a short piece of how those spring clips should be on the outside of the caliber bracket and why you have to use that screw driver to pull the clip up and over the end, it would help with that last important installation step.
Other wise a good video.
Can you explain more?
Absolutely and thank you for writing this!
Happened to me exactly as you described and your comment saved me a lot of screwing around!
I have the highest grade of respect for mechanics fr, this was amazing to watch
The T-5's have the larger brake setup in 2006 so they will be a bit different however the essential information from this video can be used to help you.
Same with the t6s. Instead of 7mm Alan its a t45 torx. Believe all else is the same
I liked this video overall. Too often cleaning the calper frames is skipped.
One note, the time to indlect the caliper piston boot is before the piston is pushed back, and it should be rinsed off eith brake clean and lightly lubribated before pushing it in.
watching videos like this makes me think how simple my truck breaks are.
Hell ya back street boy taught me how to do brakes!!
Which Backstreet Boy does he best resemble? Asking for a friend...
Man if I live close enough I will definitely go to ur garage. Because u did clean work.
Those are nice rotors. Have been using mine for about 9 months. No warping yet.
In the next video, you might want to think about changing that cracked brake line. Yikes!
Always great parts and videos guys. Thanks.
Hello, typically you'll need to change them at every other pad change however its always best to measure the rotors at every brake change to make sure they're not below the minimum thickness noted on the rotor hat.
Hello Mike,
The procedure should be identical for your 05 V70
Really good DIY's. They've given me a lot of help! Thanks!
Nice straight forward instruction video. I did notice that the brake hose was frayed and almost coming apart! I would have replaced it, and if saved for a different video at least point it out.
Excellent video Jay.
Thanks mate you made it looks so easy thumb up ... My question is .. is it the same steps for my old Volvo s40 1998 .. planing to do it my self on 4 wheels
Can you guys do a video for a s60 manual clutch replacement? There is not a lot on You Tube that address this job.
I'm old school and always open the bleeder when I push back the piston. The reason was that you never push fluid backward into the ABS. Things may have changed over the years but back in the day working on Jaguars there was more than a few ABS valves / pumps that were destroyed by pushing fluids backward. Dirt ...maybe but the cost of those ABS valves were $1500 and it was much easier to open a bleed valve.
Thomas Miller
I’m starting to learn more about cars and this was extremely useful! Thank you so much, you saved me 💰💰💰
Glad you found it helpful!
Jay - Nice job. Love the vid. Adding to my reference library. I believe process is the same for the XC60. Any comments you can share on the differences / similarities between the two would be appreciated.
Checkout the condition of the brake hose at 5:00. That really needs changing soonest.
Great eyes, I was reading all the comments about the bad brake lines, I didn't even notice during the video. Having you zero in at 5:00 really brings it home!
Zip tie trick is great. Procedure is identical for 2006 XC70 except I don't have that backing bracket behind the carrier bracket which is nice. Also, I suspect this guy likes the smell of brake cleaner because he uses it on everything. Study the way he puts on the caliper spring. Much easier than the way I did it.
Video was so easy to follow. This was my first brake job and it went smoothly. I also need to change the rear brakes and hope you have an easy to follow video for the rear. My one concern after changing the front is that the pedal seems soft after pumping the brakes. What do I need to do to fix this? Do I need to bleed the brakes? If so, any videos available showing how to do this? Thanks in advance for your response.
Watch the part very carefully where he reinstalls the spring clips.
This is extremely important.
Thank you Jay, great video...
Are the rear brakes the same? Oh, I'll be replacing the brake fluid as well do I start with the Right rear brake line on the S60 or is the ABS Module in the rear?
Hi. I found that forcing the piston back into the calliper caused a problem with the brake system and resulted in loss of brake pressure. I think what needs to be done here is to loosen the bleed nipple then push the piston back and allow the fluid to to pass through the nipple. Retighten the nipple when the piston is all the way back. This method means the rest of the brake system won't be affected.
Hi Geoff, that is certainly a way to do it! You can also remove some fluid from the reservoir at the beginning of the job, and then top off as needed.
Excellent video!
Great video! Was really helpful!
Thanks!😊👍
Thank you! This all turned out great and stops on a dime. No pulling or vibration when braking so I know the rotors are on true.however I hear a grinding on both sides when accelerating or rolling in general . Could it be that the new rotors are thicker and I need to pry the shield back a little? Mine were the 11" diameter x 286mm thick. Pre turned. Got them from Napa. It sounds like the shields. I verified everything is locked down and the springs are in the correct position. Any thoughts? Thanks.
great video. the brake line looked like it should be replaced.
+Raul Romo Your right this guy never talked about the hoses are junk and if you replace them new or reman calipors too !!
One thing that is super important to mention is the corrent rotation for the ventilated disc they just dont go on any way
A good majority of ventilated brake rotors are non directional. You can tell if a brake rotor is directional based on the orientation of the fins inside the brake rotor and there are usually different part numbers for the rotor between the left and right side on the same axle. The S60 featured in this video uses a non directional brake rotor so no special attention needs to be payed when mounting them to the vehicle.
This procedure also works for a 2015 Xc60; only difference is the guide pins are 9mm hex, not 7mm
Hi guys, I loved your brake changing videos!!! Is it true that you have to change the rotors on a volvo s60 2004 every time you change brake pads?
I am not an expert on volvos or cars, but for me I always change the rotors when I change the pads. but if you dont want too just make sure they are within spec and have them turned. :)
This is a great video. Thank you very much.
Wish I had a Voolvo s60. Especially the one with the 2,4 T engine. Superb car. Twice the car compared to a Passat 3B 1,9 TDI Syncro.
I got mine :)
Hi, how similar is this job on an 07 S60R? Is the process fairly similar?
I want to replace my 2016 S60 stock 300mm Calipers to the 336mm R-Design ones for increased braking power is it just the calipers and pads replacement or other parts are involved too?
Buena la información del tamaño y llaves a usar en los tornillos 😊
.
Desafortunadamente no vi ni das los torques a los que se deben apretar😢
What is the torque settings for the front caliper bracket and the slide pins S80
Very informative. Thanks FCP
I've seen you use that handy looking knipex plier on a couple vids. What is the model number?
An excellent video, thank you.
This was helpful. Thanks!
You pump the brakes to push the cylinder and pad against the rotor not "to build hydraulic pressure". That way, when you need the brake for the first time, the piston won't have to travel a long distance before seizing the rotor.
Also I don't believe lubing the back of the pad does anything. Lubing the sliding parts of the pad sure, but not the whole back.
Also you should use a torque wrench for final torque when putting it back together.
you do good vids and now happily a subcriber. I've done many pad changes on other cars and dont suspect this should be any difference. I have the pins out and have not be able to remove the caliper from the frame, over an hour of prying and banging and just seems hung up and wont pull off, i have compressed a bit the piston while still on the frame to try to create more clearance. Don't get it, any suggestions? Why do small simple jobs too often find a way to be not so?
Thanks for subscribing, Barry! That is strange that the caliper is hung up in the carrier. I would just remove the carrier/caliper bracket altogether if you can't get it separated.
cracked brake hose, did anyone notice that? this mechanic sure as hell did not point that out nor recommend replacing, I wonder why.
They need ya to come back
Where is a video for a s60 R !! Need video for a R. Different calipers.
The top light remains on all the time, what I have to do in order to fix that? Is something wrong I did installing the brake pads?
Would this video help me on changing brakes on a v70 wagon 2005?
What type of grease you r using? Can I use just copper grease?
The grease it ATE plastilube p/n 700015 which can be found here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone - This is what I recommend to use.
Nice work! I'v been looking for a guide that shows how to upgrade the breaks with original parts. (Bracket for 300-320 mm rotors) and just some 320 mm rotors. Anyone done that ? Notice: Not the R-breaks- I've got a -01 S60 T5
Any torques needed for carrier bolts or just tight as you can get it??
I was wondering the same thing. I watched another vid about only the calipers and they said you needed a torque wrench to be precise. Meanwhile he just simply tightened it?
Hey, is it necessary to put loctite (blue or red?) on the bolts that hold the caliper bracket in place when putting them back in? Going to do this job on my 01 S60 soon
Hi, Michael. It's not 100 percent necessary, but its also not a bad idea to do so!
@@fcpeuro thank you very much! Bought some loctite just for extra safety :)
I have a problem with my volvo S60 bi-fiuel 2005, I think the presion sensor of gaz CGN is not good must replace it so the car dont run on gaz the motor cut run only on petrol ? but I don't know where and how it is ? Can u help me please
1. I know what an OEM parts is. A "genuine" part is one that is what it says it is, not counterfeit, but not necessarily as good as an OEM part.
2. Neither a screwdriver not a wire brush will remove rust scale from a caliper bracket. If you aren't going to pickle them, use a file.
3. Apply a grease corrosion barrier on the caliper frame, install the abutment clips and lube them befor mounting the frame to the vehicle.
4. That'snot how to grease Bosch brake pads. The ONLY function that a grease provides on Bosch pad backs is to inhibit corrosion of the caliper body ears and piston face. They do not slide relative to the caliper The back shim is coated so there is no metal to metal contact, and the multi-layer shim is what dampens the high frequency vibration. Bosch's own install video uses NO grease on the backs. What grease is between the caliper and pad backs once installed is thousands of an inch thick, any excess is just a brake dust collector.
5. Brake dust/rust on the seal is what damages the piston. Clean the "ears" of the caliper and the face of the piston, inspect the seal for damage and clean both BEFORE compressing the piston.
6. Any contaminated fluid in the cylinder should be drained, not forced back up the brake line. Put a bleed hose on the caliper and use that to bleed fluid before or as the caliper is compressed.
6. Brake bleeder broke when opening, now stuck home without a car and can't even get to the parts store to buy a whole new caliper. Please tell, why was old fluid in the caliper so bad to take this risk ?
What are the torque specs for the caliper and bracket bolts? Also, should I use thread lock on the bolts? Will this work on an 06 S80? I already bought the kit from FCP.
This kit fits an 06 S80 w/286mm front rotors. The caliper slide pins do not need lock tight however the caliper hold down bracket bolts do. The torque is 30nm on the caliper bolts, 100nm on the caliper hold down bracket bolts.
What kind of grease was put on the back of the brake pads and what kind was used on the slide pins? Is it the same for both?
Yes, you'll be able to use the same paste for both. ATE Anti-Squeal Paste was used in this video.
www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone
After watching this video, I realized something. I just bought a 2006 S60 T5 (first car woo!!) and for some reason the calipers look nothing like that. They have a full frame and clip where these just have the spring clip. They still say ATE Volvo on them so I know they are an OEM front caliper, but with all the DIY videos and writeups I see, there's none with my type of caliper.Besides the frame, would there be any glaring differences I should be worried about?
Nothing to worry about if your brakes are working.
After getting them done by myself, I realized that my example was one of the few 2005-2007 ones that got the XC90's 316mm front discs and calipers.
Hooray for FCP and their endlessly understanding team having to deal with me. hahahaha!!
Perfekt vid :) helped me alot :) thank you :D
does my 2007 v50 have the same set up?
Is it normal for there to be a grinding noise after installation, or does this go away after a short time?
There shouldn't be a grinding noise. I would double check the dust shield to make sure it's not rubbing on anything along with the pads to make sure they're seated properly.
wait, why do you have to replace the rotors??
I have an 04 s60 fwd, what size Bosch rotors should I expect to replace? 286mm or 304mm?
Hello, you can email us your VIN to products@fcpeuro.com and we'll let you know what size rotors you'll need.
@@fcpeuro I emailed FCP Euro my VIN on January 11th to find out my front rotor size but I have heard back from them.
@@fcpeuro Thank you @FCP Euro for replying to my email. When it's time to do the front brakes, I'll be buying from you 😊.
What size is that little rotor bolts?????? The single one on the front
10mm
Are those 286mm rotors? Should I expect the same for my '03 XC70?
there are different diameters for those cars. 286mm, 305mm, 325 mm. you should check your old rotors and buy the same size
size for 2012 Volvo s60t5 break pads and calipers?
Hi Dan, reach out to our team at Service@fcpeuro.com with your VIN, and they can help you narrow down the size for your Volvo.
What kind of grease do you use on the slide pins?
We most commonly use - ATE Anti-Squeal Paste 700015
www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone
I've heard that VIDA recommends no grease on the slider pins.
What size rotors for front and rear for '06 Volvo S80?
Hello , we should be able to look it up based on VIN. Please email your VIN to us at products@fcpeuro.com.
does this procedure apply to the 2000 V70 XC car?
This is a video for a S60 but the process will be similar for your V70 XC.
can work same method for 2004 Volvo S60R, too?
pherchs20 No, the S60R has a different brake setup but is in my opinion much easier.
Do you need to bleed your brakes after doing this?
Hello Darlene, you usually don't have to if you're just replacing pads and rotors. You will need to be bleed the system anytime it's opened to get air out of the line. Bleeding the system will be needed when replacing a brake caliper or brake hoses/lines.
no brake fluid replacement??..
Shouldn't have to replace the fluid, This video is only doing pad and rotor replacement.
So how much does this procedure cost including labor?
Hello Angie, the brake kit cost $304.99 and labor should be around $200 but rates will vary depending on area. A rough estimate would be $500 including labor.
www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-brake-kit-11in-quietcast-vbbrakekit1
Cool video! but be sure to mention not to get any Silicone on the Rotor or pad surface cause we know what that will do! And if there is a Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedure the manufacturer specifies.... just saying.
I did the same thing, but the stop lights still don't go off even with the engine is not on.. Please help
Stop light on when engine is off is due to faulty stop light switch.
some how i broke the screw that holds the rotor in place where can i get one
they are not important, only used as an assembly aid in the factory. lug bols hold your rotor on, then rust does. but you can always use a llug bolt as a substitute while working
I keep ordering the 15mm bolt as mine is missing and I keep getting a 18mm. Anyone know the part number or where to order the 15mm caliper bracket bolt?
Hi, Jeff. Sorry you are having trouble getting the correct bolt! Please email service@fcpeuro.com and we would be happy to help you!
Thanks. I ended up going to the hardware store. Needed a M12 55mm Bolt. Had to get a 60mm and add some washers.
Can this procedure be done on a 2004 S60?
Yes, the procedure is the same for a 2001-2009 S60
Your brake line is cracked....
Holy hell. What's up with the rotors on that thing? Was it sitting in the desert?! O_O
Should have seen mine, they same or not worse. Dont talk about the back:imgur.com/a/1yqZw
Don’t ya want ceramic over semi metallic ? It’s far less brake debris
That is true that Ceramic produces less brake dust than Semi Metallic.
FCP Euro what are your thoughts on RockAuto website for parts purchases ?
Just done this job on my S60. Now when I apply the brakes when reversing, parking or other slow reversing, I hear a kind of clunk from the brakes. Only as I apply the brakes and only once, like they're engaging or something. And only happens when the brakes are hot, like after a long drive.
Any ideas? Brakes work fine otherwise. Doesn't happen going forward.
Sounds like the handbrakeshoes, i hade the same problem on my v70. But Only when reversing
My lower 15mm bolt broke off causing this same issue. The brake brackets were jumping or swinging in place while reversing.
Rear brakes
Honestly kind of arousing to watch this swedish masterpiece get undressed by this sexy mechanic
So much grease
An excellent video, thank you.
Is it possible to put 2003 s60r brakes on a 2001 non r s60? Like the rotors, calipers and pads?
Hello, I don't see this being an issue but you will need caliper brackets as well for the larger diameter brake rotor.