Meshmixer Is Not Scary / How To Use Plane Cut To Slice Large Models for Better 3D Printing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2018
- I was using Autodesk Meshmixer to slice up some scaled up OpenRC F1 parts for printing. I thought, maybe others would like to know how I was doing it, so here is a quick and dirty video on it.
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THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH! I just started on a big project and I hade a part I needed to cut up and I was getting really frustrated, but then I got a notification and saw the name and I was like”THANK THE 3D PRINTING GODS!!”
Hey, thanks for this video. Meshmixer actually really scared me as well but after seeing you use it I think I am going to have to give it a proper go. Thanks again
I have been using IdeaMaker for 3 or 4 months and just now I found out there is a lay flat function. Thank you Joel, this will save me a lot of time rotating things
Thank you, very helpful! Like this style a lot more than the "high-energy" ones I've been watching lately :)
thanks! Exactly what I'm doing now with a large piece but putting the pieces together exactly will be critical. And thanks for the tip on Maker's Muse as he brilliantly explains how In Meshmixer it's possible to not just plane cut but also to free cut so that you can create puzzle/dovetail style joints to add strength and confirm alignment when piecing back together!
Haven't used meshmixer myself for same reasons, ty for sharing Joel was helpful. Another good video as usual. Have a great day. God bless
I'm liking the new upload schedule! Just be careful so you don't get burned out!
Thank you, this was very informative, and within minutes I downloaded the software to give it a try.
Thanks Joel, love to see some more on this subject, struggling to get the basics down such as placing model base to bed, not easy like simplify 3d.
Excellent video. Your instructions are great!
Great video, Joel. I've been meaning to play with Meshmixer, and this was a good overview.
Had meshmixer but was too intimidated but you made this explanation so comprehensive - thanks!
Thank you for this tutorial Video Joel!
Great video. Just getting started with MM and you made this part very easy to do. And yes, polygon is the correct term (also used when your parrot escapes!)
Awesome sharing. I’ve been doing this for a little while. A way to prevent those strange points at the cuts is to increase wiremesh density via the remesh command (after selecting near the area you want to cut)
Huge thanks for this. This helped me so much. Rock star!!
This cleared a lot of things up for me. Thanks!
Wow that’s great! You’re welcome.
Great video Joel, I have been using meshmixer for over two months for making hollow aortas and this tutorial is great for an introduction to the program.
You should probably make next a tutorial for making hollow objects, or fusing shells together.
High five!
Great information. Thank you.
Great helpful video! You explained everything very well. I am looking forward to the completed car. How many 3D printers do you currently have?
Mesh mixer is a tool I need to dive into also, hope to see you share more videos like this 👍
This is a great video!!! Please make more videos that make 3D printing aspects less scary. It could be a whole series 😂
Thanks Joel very helpful
Thanks for clearing that up! I'm trying to slice a helmet I designed for my nephew for comicon! Separate shells!
You sir are a life saver!!!!!!!!! 🙏
Yes yes yes I neeeeeeed this in my life 😂 Awesome video as always ✋
Nice demo Joel. Thanks man :)
Nice work I would suggest making some holes for dowels at your intersecting joints these can be printed and would be convenient and strong
Joel you are awesome! So many ideas for vids
Great video Joel.
If you can open the model in fusion360, you can do the same thing there. It also allows you to break parts up in much more complex ways. You can draw a 2d or 3d profile, and use that profile to split the part. I used this quite a bit recently when I was making custom ends for a vacuum cleaner hose. I modeled the entire end, then split part of it out to work as a clamp to go around the hose.
Hi Joel: Great idea. Cannot beat saving time AND Material
Thank you, Carl!
Thank You for this. I will be handy. I have a MP Mini V.2 that I am about to unbox and try to learn how to print.
How about adding some holes to the other part and some fittings to the other
Got my Mini just a couple of months ago. Love it, and (after the inevitable learning curve) I think you will too.
Also, thank you Joel. With the Mini's "small" bed knowing how to split up models was something I really needed to learn. You made it look easy and not as complicated as I thought it woud be.
Hello Joel! First of all keep up the great work! And congratulations on your online/TH-cam career. Do you know why when generating supports on meshmixer, it goes so terribly slow on the pruning process? Anything that you know to speed that up? I have an iMac with an I 7 quart processor and 16 GB of RAM and right now I am at 14 minutes and it’s halfway through the printing process. Thanks Joel, have a great evening!
One again...You are the BEST! This will save time. Blender's Splitter is not too accurate and neither is Fusion 360. Thanks!
You should also include some registration keys of some sort. These will greatly help in aligning the individual pieces, when assembling them. What type of keys you use is entirely a matter of personal choice. An easy version would simply be to use registration pegs. Just quickly model a small cylinder, with chamfered edges. After slicing your model into managable parts, position the peg(s) between the parts, and use a "booleen" opperation to create corresponding, negative spaces, where the peg(s) will fit after printing, (usually, you'd need 2-3 per pair of parts). Proceed with printing the parts like you normally would. And, then print out a corresponding number of pegs, to what you used to make all the holes. It doesn't matter how big or small you initially make the pegs, as long as they match the custom holes you made in your model, to fit them. They don't even NEED to be "pegs". As long as they are some kind of [parametric] geometric shape, with no undercuts that would lock the shape, unintentionally, into another part. You can also incorporate the shapes into the parts, or print them seperately. 'Choice is yours. This will help relieve A LOT of headaches, geting everything to align properly. If you have any questions about how to do it, Bill Duran, or Angus will easily be able to show you, step-by-step. In fact, I believe they have both even produced videos on this very subject. HI-5!
Hey Joel, that was really good stuff. Cheers, JAYTEE
Thank you so very much
Great pro tip!
got alot out of this...thanks!!
If there's room you should drill holes for dowels to make it stronger, then in the future, model holes in the part for dowels. Going to be a cool build.
Awesome Video Thanks! After I cut the model and hit accept and click on separate shells the model splits into 24 parts instead of 2 is there a solution to this?
Thnx so much!!
As someone who's expecting his first 3d printer in a week or so. is that glue so amazing or would it be a better idea to go full ikea style with some holes on both (or one depending on wether that's possible) and a plastic nugget to put in there and glue them together like that?
Joel, can items be cut up in meshmixer to create interlocks / features that would create stronger bonds as opposed to just 2 flat surfaces?
Ian Colquhoun Yeah, that would be a great followup to this video!
I was just going to say the same thing. With the two pieces having their mating surfaces on top of the print this would work out great.
As I learn more I'll definitely show off what I find out!
It looks like the first part of this video from maker's muse might help: th-cam.com/video/eLgD88KFKJI/w-d-xo.html
It would be awesome if they added it but I do not believe so. There are two pin stiles in meshmix/misc that you could use but it is still a process since you would still need to make a tube first I think and then use the meshmix item to hollow the pin depressions. You /can/ however use cylinders and the select/edit/flip normals to make quick places for dowl or rods like Joel has used in a couple 3d printed swords. Makers Mews has a video with that technique.
LOVE that you have a Doctor Who shirt on! Thanks for the info! Is there a way to do dovetail slices?
You can add some pins that will help you align the two parts you're gluing together as well...
thanx for the video. What can i do if, when i select separate shells i get like 60 objects besides the parts I planecut?
Nice video....but e.g. in 3:37, when you move the plane cut slider, you have a measurement tool. How to get this? I dont see this in my tryouts
Good job Joel this is great i will us it on my new mk3 i3 when i recieve him :(
Thank you
Great,
thanks
Nice! Thanks!
can go one step farther and add pins using the mesh mixers stock items, knock them out of each part and have much better/easier alignment!
I have a similar prob though since its mechanical stressed part I would like to know a way to semi-automatically split and add dovetails or similar stackable joints.... ideas?` What about Fusion360?
Hello! Please could you tell me, if it is possible to write somehow exact value when I am moving with the cut plane in 1 direction?
how would you make the panels thinner? making a body for my rc also. also, making panels to interlock with thin prints.
If you glue a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper to a 12x12" granite tile, you can wet sand your joining surfaces.
can you cut only a part of a plane, ie. simple example cut a cylinder into 3 pie pieces, so the center of circle/cylinder is where the plane needs to end.
Does meshmixer allow you to export the part and meshmixer supports as separate files then align them so you can use a different s3d process for the supports vs the part process(es)?
For big parts like that and that will be put under flex-- consider making holes between the two facing surfaces. Then insert pins-- like plastic rod; something solid. To prevent rotation.
Such a great video. Thanks for showing us on free software. Cant afford the s3d cost
Will you 3D print the 400% bolts as well?
I like mesh mixer and idea maker, but I have layer issues when I use idea maker with my MP mini select with it. I know it's for the raise printers but I like it and would like some help if any one is down
How did you know to use the number "4" could I have just changed the values in the other fields? or no?
Joel, thanks for making this video. I am working on a printing my first battlemech www.gambody.com/3d-models/mechwarrior-bobcat and i am finding that some of the parts require a lot of supports and they are having trouble with bed adhession during printing. So I'm slicing one piece to see how it will work to print it flat and epoxy it together. This video is so straight to the point and exactly the process I needed. Also, I love this RC Car project you did.
I can't figure out how to put exact dimensions for plane cuts. What if I want to cut exactly 5.0mm off the bottom of several different models of varying heights?
Hi Joel, Can you help me? How can I turn on the "measurement / ruler " in the Plane Cut function?
Thanks Joel, just one note, the sound is weird in this video :)
The sound sounds a little bit high
I suggest watching in .75 speed it will sound normal
Hey Joel...I would like you to make a vid on managing file names. Is there an engineering standard for keeping files of all the non-related applications. CAD, Slicing, printing etc?
That's a good question, I don't know
Awesome your the best
How do you cut a piece out and put the leftover pieces back together?
could meshmixer fix an stl file that has a missing layer, or any other model related issues like that?
Exactly how much time and filament did this method save?
One thing that would make it easier to assemble parts would be to add some registration marks. Nothing fancy, just a couple small pegs and divots to line sections up for gluing.
Edit: To be clear, I've yet to mess around in Meshmixer, so I have no idea how to do that. I just think it'd make the gluing less tedious.
You're right, but I don't know how to do that yet in Meshmixer :)
Well, I found a couple hours to mess around in MM. Between poking around in the menus and haphazard googlery, I couldn't find a good way to do it.
I did have another idea for lining parts up without pins, dimples, or fancy cuts though: Cura has a mold mode that, well, makes a mold. If you made a mold of a section where the two parts met, exported the build plate as an STL, then opened that in MM, you could cut it down to a small jig that just wrapped the joint on a few faces perfectly. It might be more effort than it's worth, since you might glue the part to the guide piece if there's any overflow.
How about doing a boolean (or two) with a very tiny primitive, like a sphere the size of a tictac? Duplicate it in place so you can use one copy to cut away from one side and bool the other copy together with the other side of the model.
What is up with that small bit of deformation? In dealing with very tiny detailed miniatures and that tiny deformation is reeking havoc at that small of a scale..
Any suggestions?
Simply said: Cool staff. High5 ;)
Thanks mate, High Five
Insert or drill holes in the model and put rods for alignment and strength.
Meshmixer : my new best friend, after 3DPrinting Nerd! #HighFive
Could you also print a step on each part so they locate to each other?
Does splitting the model up limit you to one printer or can you use dissimilar printers and still get a model that goes together well?
Great question - as long as all printers being used are calibrated well enough to produce similarly dimensioned parts, then yes!
I use sometimes Meshmixer, but for this job NetFabb ( Autodesk nowadays ) feels nicer for me.
You could have done that on your formbot t-rex 2+ or the gmax1.5xt in one peice just turn the model on a 45 or cut it in half and flip the top so it lays flat and still print on a 45 would have saved a lot of gluing.
What are you printing on bcn sigma behind you?
When I try slicing my piece I tried to slice it in half but it turned into 10 parts please help me
You can make this cuts also in ideamaker.
Nice job. What actual scale is that, clearly it's not 400% of the original, it's 4 times the original model's scale? Looks very nice, looking forward to the end result.
Crap, you're right. Um. 4x but I should really do proper scale.
all you need is a key so the parts fit in all axis, makes fitting even easer. that being said i yet to do this as my cad/cam skill are non existent currently
Unrelated? Do you know of any windows based software that is like octoprimt that I can run on an old laptop to monitor my printer and possibly use a webcam or GoPro for remote view
you could use something like discord and have it constantly in a call so you can view the webcam from a laptop or phone
How interesting I'm also trying to 3D print a full size racecar, except this one will actually race ;)
Export as Binary or AScii?
Shouldn't you use registration pins to help join the pieces?
Yes, that would be best, I just don't know how to do that yet in Meshmixer.
Probably should have added some holes for dowels.
#JoelBot recorded this one. Great information.
Anyone know of a Meshmixer editor for hire? I have a 3D business and am looking for someone that can edit scans of people in Meshmixer for print. Thanks!
That.. was scary!
I keep having problems with Meshmixer. 90% of the time it won't let me zoom in and out.
Joel: It would be good to model holes in those flat surfaces you can add pegs in when you glue it together.
only wish i had a 3d printer to utilize this information....