Grease the boot and slide it over a deep well socket. Grab a slightly larger socket and slide it on. Repeat until you are at the diameter of the hex for the torsion bar. It makes a PIA job turn into a 5min one. Works with the polys as well. Nice job on the tool!
Love the ideal you did with the boot on the torsion bar cutting an old one to get the boots stretched out to allow you to slide it right over holding them together looks really easy and the process of doing a lot of fun and work on my 70 Dodge Coronet and I'm definitely going to use that idea
3 Vice Grips and Rubber Hammer is what I used to get my torsion bars off! Learned that one from Ol' JED Scott....didn't get the boot on I said F it lol haha might try again....
Is that the original undercoating on the car? I’m working on a 70 coronet and the undercoating looks grayish brown California Car so no rust would you normally just paint over it or strip and re apply?
It’s original. Well, on my Mom’s 72 Charger I just scrubbed it, knocked anything loose and applied over it. I suggest you try a test spot and see if it looks good and is durable. It’s was fine on mine. I used Eastwood undercoating in a can.
is that line on the back supposed to be vertical? I only ask because the 1965 Barracuda I bought think somebody clocked the torsion bars 60° off because the front end is super low and the torsion bar screws are all the way in.
I don’t think the direction of the lines matters. But some will argue it does. The reason your nose is low and the screws are all the way in is because you need to clock the lower control arm over one more hex. In order to get it to go over one more hex, you have to loosen that screw and get all the tension out of the torsion bar, then disconnect the LCA from the spindle via the lower ball joint bolts (or at least one of the bolts and just loosen the other). The UCA connected to the spindle connected to the LCA will not let you clock over one more unless you disconnect like I said above. I’ve done a few front suspension videos and I’m pretty sure explain this in one but obviously forgot to in this one. Hope my description here helps. Let me know if you need any clarification.
How come you've never finished band stalling or showing installing the Stretrod being put in along with Controller control arm.. I have a 74 dart and mine. Doesn't seem to lineup like all these videos are showing. And when it gets to the part of resembling every single one, you guys doesn't show it just curious.
It’s an older video. Not saying I’m great now but I’m better at filming now than back then. If I remember right, I think I forgot to install the strut rod and had to pull the LCA back off and re-install. And I’m not sure if I filmed it. Anyway, I think I have video on the 68 Charger doing a front end kit. Might want to look there.
Oh man. I don’t think anyone makes them for C bodies. You’re probably gonna have to buy used ones from a specialty yard. Hopefully get them of a car from a dry climate.
Howdy Jonny , I have a 70 Roadrunner I'm building . The motor is a 510hp 440 . On torsion bars does the size 1.0 -1.6 matter ? I know in curves it does but for wanting to lower the front end maybe 2 inches, will a 1.03 do it for me ? What do you suggest ? Thanks and Love the videos .
Thanks Sparlin. Bar diameter isn’t going to affect your ride height at all. Mopars are adjustable up front so you can set the height to your own preference. If you like low, which is my preference, a stiffer larger diameter bar is better cause it will be less likely to bottom out. And like you said the added benefit is handling. BTW, lowering the CG is a huge handling improvement. Small bars are only an improvement for a drag car. But if you do street duty bigger is better. But if you have your original bars on your bird they’re just fine IMO. I’d save the money and use towards some else on the car.
I couldn’t give you an accurate number of turns. I think I’ll start with about 2 rotations of the bolt. Then once the dative train is in I’ll adjust it again to get the height I want.
Where did you get the torsion bar removal/install tool? I haven’t done a mopar for many years and didn’t remember how to get those in and out. I just knew NOT to pound on the end with a hammer!
You’re right, if you pound on the end it can mushroom the head making it difficult to get out next go around. Here’s the tool kit. When I bought mine many years ago, you had to specify which ball joint you want. This kit comes with both. Early A bodies are the small ball joint. 73 and later A’s, all B & E bodies are the larger one. www.manciniracing.com/unfrsuprotok.html
If you think the rubber boot is hard to but on try the polyurethane bastards lots of hot water I use a portable induction plate to heat water and a heat gun on low.... Never use visegrips on a torsion bars you create stress risers and the torsion bar can fail and the worst time! An aluminum bmx bicycle handle bar head with the four bolts makes an excellent torsion bar tool and free at the trash all the time. I like the tool you made....you know the C body torsion bar hex fits the 8 1\4 bearing adjusters! Free tool!
If anyone want a stiffening plates template on PDF i can sell it, you print it and use to cut on the metal sheet 14 gauge. We can use paypal or bank transfer (im in mexico) :D
Grease the boot and slide it over a deep well socket. Grab a slightly larger socket and slide it on. Repeat until you are at the diameter of the hex for the torsion bar. It makes a PIA job turn into a 5min one. Works with the polys as well. Nice job on the tool!
Nice. Thanks Dave. I hope people who don’t have the ability or spare torsion bar read this comment.
Love the ideal you did with the boot on the torsion bar cutting an old one to get the boots stretched out to allow you to slide it right over holding them together looks really easy and the process of doing a lot of fun and work on my 70 Dodge Coronet and I'm definitely going to use that idea
Awesome and thanks Steven.
Thanks for sharring very funny, brought memories when I did my torsion bars and suspension. The ass kicker is putting sliding in the boot! 😁👍
For sure.
Really handy to review this, i'm a couple months away from doing this on my roadstoration; a 69 charger. Thanks for making this!
You're welcome Bishop.
3 Vice Grips and Rubber Hammer is what I used to get my torsion bars off! Learned that one from Ol' JED Scott....didn't get the boot on I said F it lol haha might try again....
Quick thinking on making your own install tool! Nice job! Those headers have miles of clearance!
Awesome great thinking on the tool you made
Thanks William. I was happy it worked so easily.
Yes siree!!! That's a nice color!!!!
Is that the original undercoating on the car? I’m working on a 70 coronet and the undercoating looks grayish brown California Car so no rust would you normally just paint over it or strip and re apply?
It’s original. Well, on my Mom’s 72 Charger I just scrubbed it, knocked anything loose and applied over it. I suggest you try a test spot and see if it looks good and is durable. It’s was fine on mine. I used Eastwood undercoating in a can.
I cut up a transmission funnel just the right size to fit the torsion bar. The seal slides right on.
Nice!
is that line on the back supposed to be vertical? I only ask because the 1965 Barracuda I bought think somebody clocked the torsion bars 60° off because the front end is super low and the torsion bar screws are all the way in.
I don’t think the direction of the lines matters. But some will argue it does. The reason your nose is low and the screws are all the way in is because you need to clock the lower control arm over one more hex. In order to get it to go over one more hex, you have to loosen that screw and get all the tension out of the torsion bar, then disconnect the LCA from the spindle via the lower ball joint bolts (or at least one of the bolts and just loosen the other). The UCA connected to the spindle connected to the LCA will not let you clock over one more unless you disconnect like I said above. I’ve done a few front suspension videos and I’m pretty sure explain this in one but obviously forgot to in this one. Hope my description here helps. Let me know if you need any clarification.
How come you've never finished band stalling or showing installing the Stretrod being put in along with
Controller control arm.. I have a 74 dart and mine. Doesn't seem to lineup like all these videos are showing. And when it gets to the part of resembling every single one, you guys doesn't show it just curious.
It’s an older video. Not saying I’m great now but I’m better at filming now than back then. If I remember right, I think I forgot to install the strut rod and had to pull the LCA back off and re-install. And I’m not sure if I filmed it. Anyway, I think I have video on the 68 Charger doing a front end kit. Might want to look there.
Very helpful Brother. Can you please tell me your source for Torsion Bars? I have a ‘64 C Body. Can’t find them anywhere. Thanks.
Oh man. I don’t think anyone makes them for C bodies. You’re probably gonna have to buy used ones from a specialty yard. Hopefully get them of a car from a dry climate.
Howdy Jonny , I have a 70 Roadrunner I'm building . The motor is a 510hp 440 . On torsion bars does the size 1.0 -1.6 matter ? I know in curves it does but for wanting to lower the front end maybe 2 inches, will a 1.03 do it for me ? What do you suggest ? Thanks and Love the videos .
Thanks Sparlin. Bar diameter isn’t going to affect your ride height at all. Mopars are adjustable up front so you can set the height to your own preference. If you like low, which is my preference, a stiffer larger diameter bar is better cause it will be less likely to bottom out. And like you said the added benefit is handling. BTW, lowering the CG is a huge handling improvement. Small bars are only an improvement for a drag car. But if you do street duty bigger is better. But if you have your original bars on your bird they’re just fine IMO. I’d save the money and use towards some else on the car.
@@JonnyMopar Thanks for the reply and help . Had to cut the old one out . Gonna order PST 1.03 then . Thanks again
With no engine how many turns do you put on the adjuster to start with? Thanks!
I couldn’t give you an accurate number of turns. I think I’ll start with about 2 rotations of the bolt. Then once the dative train is in I’ll adjust it again to get the height I want.
We’re do you get Torson bars from can’t find them I have 77 Chrysler Cordova
I don’t know of any aftermarket that makes torsion bars for your car.
Where did you get the torsion bar removal/install tool? I haven’t done a mopar for many years and didn’t remember how to get those in and out. I just knew NOT to pound on the end with a hammer!
You’re right, if you pound on the end it can mushroom the head making it difficult to get out next go around. Here’s the tool kit. When I bought mine many years ago, you had to specify which ball joint you want. This kit comes with both. Early A bodies are the small ball joint. 73 and later A’s, all B & E bodies are the larger one.
www.manciniracing.com/unfrsuprotok.html
That tool is from Mancini Racing. Great tool, easy to use.
Do you ajust ride height befor or after final toruqe on lower control arms?
Tighten everything. Adjust ride height last but before alignment if possible.
If you think the rubber boot is hard to but on try the polyurethane bastards lots of hot water I use a portable induction plate to heat water and a heat gun on low.... Never use visegrips on a torsion bars you create stress risers and the torsion bar can fail and the worst time! An aluminum bmx bicycle handle bar head with the four bolts makes an excellent torsion bar tool and free at the trash all the time. I like the tool you made....you know the C body torsion bar hex fits the 8 1\4 bearing adjusters! Free tool!
I read soak the boot in hot water. Or smear so dish soap in that area
Use a lot of grease when you install the torsion bar or they will never come out.
Good tip.
heat would help the boot stretch.
Didn’t think of that.
Put the boot in hot water for a couple minutes
Never thought of that.
Get spreader pliers.
Thanks
AWESOME..FYI...USE A LARGE SOCKET OR A HEAT GUN ON DASS BOOT...LOL OR LEAVE THE DAME THING OFF...MOPAR 4 EVER.
Ooh, that’s a good tip. I didn’t think of a heat gun. What a pain. Lol. Thanks Yoda.
If anyone want a stiffening plates template on PDF i can sell it, you print it and use to cut on the metal sheet 14 gauge. We can use paypal or bank transfer (im in mexico) :D
You can lose the 70s porn music.
What? Lol.