The Iron Violence! Iron Motivator! Manual Violence! Hahaha Great Video Jonny! That Charger is really shaping up .I am very impressed you didn't smash your hands constantly, I thought it was require when working on projects!
Man watching you work on the charger makes me think how spoiled I am....with air tools...down to the point of an air pickle fork! The 73 and up A body spindles make an excellent swap for disc brakes on those chargers and you get the advantage of uni-cast rotors that have strengthening ribs cast into the hubs....face the bolts like they speared in direction of going forward is a MOPAR thing! Brake line nut if stuck stop and heat till it glows orange and it'll come off,.... The side cutters are the way of the mopar Jedi master! Duddie would have been bleeding by the time he got the drum off! Lol 😆 he makes my day! And by the way never let the pickle fork end you hit mushroom over to much always grind it down and dress so it lessens the chance of a piece flying off and injuring you. If you don't have the torsion bar removal tool you can loosen the lower control arm bolt holding it to k frame with everything freed up hit the lower control are toward back and the torsion bar will pop off just make sure the circlip is out of the end ..... Man the pipe wrench does the job and if the struts are bent then really they have to be replaced.... Cool video Jonny keep up the hard work!!
Also use angled side cutters on difficult cotter pins and use the backside of the side cutters as leverage and pry the cotter pin out The curved head really helps with this. I also use two pair of angled head side cutters for stuck emergency brake cables, and leverage them against each other.
Super helpful! Been planning on doing a bunch of work to my 67 Coronet. I haven't done this type of work on a car before and this takes away the overwhelming feeling of cluelessness. Thanks for sharing!
You’re welcome Bill. Glad you liked the video. Half the battle is just knowing what to do. Once you see it, it’s not too bad. BTW, I have several suspension videos, I’ll make a Playlist for them. Thanks for the idea. Lol.
Awesome as always and perfect timing! I took the whole front end and k-frame off my ‘71 Charger. I had to use a torsion bar remover tool to take out the torsion rods even after removing the tension bolts. I’m going with front disks too. Can’t wait for the videos on the restoration and putting it all back together and in! I had some nails instead of cotter pins! lol!
Hugely helpful! I am in the midst of replacing bushings, tie rods, steering box to get my 74 Challenger front end straightened out. The lower control arm bushings are totally gone (prob never addressed) and since I have no idea what I am doing this really saved my bacon! Thanks 🙏
A man after my own heart with the pipe wrench on rounded brake line fittings these and/or my channelock 410 pliers are my go to’s and work like a charm
I’ve been saving these videos for now because this next week I’m removing the Coronet front suspension and putting it on a dolly. Since I’m replacing everything thought of taking off upper control arms. Strut rods and torsion bars and dropping whole thing. But probably should follow your example here to learn how everything is connected.
This is a cool video as I’m now doing this to my 69 RR. I just pulled everything out as an assembly and dropped K member and all and got it on a work stand. Several different roads to town I guess. Great video.
@@JonnyMopar Then again you still have the engine in your car! Btw what size socket does it take to remove the upper ball joint? I don’t have anything close to that size. Guess another trip to Northern tool. Keep up the good work!
Doing this job on my '70 Bee... Sucks because I have a seized bolt in the spindle (the one that attaches to the drum backing plate), and want to get that out before I try to get the upper ball joint out. I guess I'll try a MAP torch to heat the spindle? Tried punching it out with a drift and it's not moving at all.
@@JonnyMopar Thanks. Also, I appreciate the "ELI5" video. I've done this job before, but it was on a '73 RR and my '70 is obviously different. Sometimes when people do videos, they just assume you know certain things, so it's nice that you went over the small things including basic stuff such as how to remove a spindle nut, etc. Subscribed!
Hello, I speak from Brazil, would you know how to tell me the correct position of the torsion bar of the chrysler New York uses this same system.. I leave it in the hexagon the straight line I some people leave the line
I’ve always just thrown them in the same way on each side. As far as clocking I’ve put them in facing any direction and never had an issue. Just make it the same side to side and you’ll be fine.
Very helpful. About to tear into my 68 Charger front end. Long overdue
Very cool. Good luck on your rebuild and thanks for the comment Eric.
Watched your video again today as I tackle my 69 Barracuda over the winter months here. I'll refer to it again i'm sure... well done, thanks!
Thanks Dave.
The Iron Violence! Iron Motivator! Manual Violence! Hahaha Great Video Jonny! That Charger is really shaping up .I am very impressed you didn't smash your hands constantly, I thought it was require when working on projects!
@@JonnyMopar Or just add the word "Violence" to any tool haha. Brutal on the ankle roll, Those hurt!!
Man watching you work on the charger makes me think how spoiled I am....with air tools...down to the point of an air pickle fork! The 73 and up A body spindles make an excellent swap for disc brakes on those chargers and you get the advantage of uni-cast rotors that have strengthening ribs cast into the hubs....face the bolts like they speared in direction of going forward is a MOPAR thing! Brake line nut if stuck stop and heat till it glows orange and it'll come off,.... The side cutters are the way of the mopar Jedi master! Duddie would have been bleeding by the time he got the drum off! Lol 😆 he makes my day! And by the way never let the pickle fork end you hit mushroom over to much always grind it down and dress so it lessens the chance of a piece flying off and injuring you. If you don't have the torsion bar removal tool you can loosen the lower control arm bolt holding it to k frame with everything freed up hit the lower control are toward back and the torsion bar will pop off just make sure the circlip is out of the end ..... Man the pipe wrench does the job and if the struts are bent then really they have to be replaced.... Cool video Jonny keep up the hard work!!
Also use angled side cutters on difficult cotter pins and use the backside of the side cutters as leverage and pry the cotter pin out The curved head really helps with this. I also use two pair of angled head side cutters for stuck emergency brake cables, and leverage them against each other.
@@MarcS-mp1je good tips.
Super helpful! Been planning on doing a bunch of work to my 67 Coronet. I haven't done this type of work on a car before and this takes away the overwhelming feeling of cluelessness. Thanks for sharing!
You’re welcome Bill. Glad you liked the video. Half the battle is just knowing what to do. Once you see it, it’s not too bad. BTW, I have several suspension videos, I’ll make a Playlist for them. Thanks for the idea. Lol.
Nice work, stuff everyone should know!! It's always good to go back to the basics!!!
Man thanks for doing this video. I've watched it like 20 times while pulling the frontend of my abody barracuda apart. Really helpful.
Thanks Alonzo. I appreciate that and you’re very welcome.
Great vid; super-calm, and sure-handed delivery. Good, good stuff.
Thanks NYC.
Awesome as always and perfect timing! I took the whole front end and k-frame off my ‘71 Charger. I had to use a torsion bar remover tool to take out the torsion rods even after removing the tension bolts. I’m going with front disks too. Can’t wait for the videos on the restoration and putting it all back together and in! I had some nails instead of cotter pins! lol!
Hugely helpful! I am in the midst of replacing bushings, tie rods, steering box to get my 74 Challenger front end straightened out. The lower control arm bushings are totally gone (prob never addressed) and since I have no idea what I am doing this really saved my bacon! Thanks 🙏
You’re very welcome Hal, glad you found it useful.
A man after my own heart with the pipe wrench on rounded brake line fittings these and/or my channelock 410 pliers are my go to’s and work like a charm
@@MarcS-mp1je They sure do.
I’ve been saving these videos for now because this next week I’m removing the Coronet front suspension and putting it on a dolly.
Since I’m replacing everything thought of taking off upper control arms. Strut rods and torsion bars and dropping whole thing.
But probably should follow your example here to learn how everything is connected.
This is a cool video as I’m now doing this to my 69 RR. I just pulled everything out as an assembly and dropped K member and all and got it on a work stand. Several different roads to town I guess. Great video.
@@JonnyMopar Then again you still have the engine in your car! Btw what size socket does it take to remove the upper ball joint? I don’t have anything close to that size. Guess another trip to Northern tool. Keep up the good work!
The bar used to be called cheeter bar in
The old days
Thanks, this was so helpful
You’re very welcome Joe.
Doing this job on my '70 Bee... Sucks because I have a seized bolt in the spindle (the one that attaches to the drum backing plate), and want to get that out before I try to get the upper ball joint out. I guess I'll try a MAP torch to heat the spindle? Tried punching it out with a drift and it's not moving at all.
Oh man. That’s sucks. I think the torch would be what I tried next. Keep a water hose close by.
@@JonnyMopar Thanks. Also, I appreciate the "ELI5" video. I've done this job before, but it was on a '73 RR and my '70 is obviously different. Sometimes when people do videos, they just assume you know certain things, so it's nice that you went over the small things including basic stuff such as how to remove a spindle nut, etc. Subscribed!
@@pdiz Thanks man. I appreciate that. I try to make them for the guy that's never done it before.
Nice work man how much longer till you're duct DuckTales drags how's that Beast run
Great vid Jonny. I have a 68 Dodge Monaco stn wagon I'm working on. Can you suggest a good place to purchase a front suspension kit?
Thank you. p-s-t.com/c-1145181-suspension.html#!year%3D1970%7C%7Cmake%3DDODGE%7C%7Cmodel%3DMONACO
By the way, buy yourself a Milwaukee M18 FUEL Impact Driver (stubby). I bit the bullet and bought one. You won't regret it.
@@168charger Thanks for the tip.
Hello, I speak from Brazil, would you know how to tell me the correct position of the torsion bar of the chrysler New York uses this same system.. I leave it in the hexagon the straight line I some people leave the line
I’ve always just thrown them in the same way on each side. As far as clocking I’ve put them in facing any direction and never had an issue. Just make it the same side to side and you’ll be fine.
Leave the risk in that position / on the right side and on the left side \ could you help me?
I responded to your other comment. Just make them the same side to side like your comment, / \ or - - or \ /.