Start to Finish Motorcycle Oil Change w/ Filter & Lube Specs, Tips & Tricks (On My 2012 Yamaha FZ1)!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ค. 2023
- In this video I go over all the nitty gritty details from picking the right oil and filter to little tips and tricks to make the job cleaner, easier, and more efficient.
Whatever specifics your bike has for oil, filter and torque specs should be followed entirely. My video is specific for the Gen 2 Yamaha FZ1 (2006-2015). The general idea of an oil change is the same across all makes and models, but always be sure to swap your info in for your bike if it's different, rather than using the exact info I used on mine!
*Note: The API rating on the oil I used is API SN, which is higher than the rating suggested by Yamaha of API SE, SF, or SG. Forgot to mention that in the video if anyone was wondering.
Here is the Mobil 1 Oil and K&N Oil Filter I Used:
Autozone Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 4T Racing Oil $12.59/qt:
www.autozone.com/motor-oil-an...
Amazon Multiple Motorcycle K&N Oil Filter $17.99:
a.co/d/0TdEO0Y
Here are the 2 Yamaha FZ1 Facebook Groups I Admin:
FZ1 FORUM 998cc: m. groups/fz1foru...
Yamaha FZ1:
m. groups/6199187...
Excellent video buddy.
Another trick I use is wrapping the headers in foil.
Going over them twice guarentees nothing hits your headers.
I really needed to lean it . very well explained. Thanks for uploading it .
@Seema Sharma Dora you're welcome. It's kind of fun running through these scenarios and figuring things out with people! Always little tricks to learn along the way!
Well done!
@sekaf4125 thank you!
Even though I do like the fact of draining thoroughly, it's not neccessary to this extent as the old oil mixup is negligible. I did not hear you say anything in regard to replacing the washer of the drain bolt? Any reason that wasn't mentioned? Love the FZ1, best bike I ever had (and still have).
@Melvin Cornelissen you're right it's not going to increase efficiency of the oil change by 75% or anything, but I did note in the video the difference between on center stand and on the tire, then kicked it to the side just for curiosity. I was actually surprised that the difference between center stand and on tire was so little, but leaning it on the kick stand after it appeared completely drained was so much. The main argument you hear from people in the online groups are whether to drain on center stand or on the tire, which makes almost no difference. If anyone wanted to make an argument for which way to drain, on the kick stand would actually produce better results than both of the other 2. It must have been 3/4 of a cup or more. The crush washer is not something I noted in the video but I will add that note to the video description. At 31ft-lbs it's not flattening the washer, if it was something used at a much higher torque spec I probably would have replaced but I just cleaned it up and back on it went. Thanks for the feedback!
@@ShawnMartinNCBIRDMAN have to admit that I was also surprised by how much oil was still coming out 😄. Had to replace my oil pan earlier this year and letting it drain on the side stand would've helped me then as I now had a lot of oil in the pan still when removing it.
@@melvincornelissen491 Me too. It was drip-drip-drip on the center stand and went an even slower drip.......drip on the tire. I was like well that's it then and just to test it I kicked it over and holy smokes is that much old oil just sitting in the pan!? You're right about the negligible old mix with new oil, understanding something about how well oil actually works and what it does. But...to the layperson like myself ;) you gotta show exactly which argument people hold as concrete to be true. Turns out the 2 greatest arguments people have about center stand VS tire oil drain are both wrong, on the kick stand is best! At least for a 2012 FZ1!! LOL.