4:24 saving this for personal reference 😅 Set timing light to 0° Use crankshaft markings to time engine *Middle of three notches is 16° First notch is 14° Third notch is 18°
I have this set up fully built.If you upgrade your cam to a stage 2 NA BC cam you’ll need a y8 dissy so what I did was used a y8 dissy with the z6 wiring and internals and I still needed a adjustable cam gear to get the timing right.
If the ignition timing map in the OBD1 ECU is set as a base for 16, then it NEEDS TO BE AT 16!!! If it's advanced above or below, then when it goes to other spots in the RPM range it will be that many degrees above (or below) what it SHOULD be had it been set to 16*. Also, the camshaft sprocket on the D16Z6 (the engine that P28 ran) is 4.5* advanced or retarded from the Y8 cam sprocket. To match it properly, either get the Z6 sprocket and set spark timing to 16*. Or, get a adjustable sprocket and adjust it to 4.5* accordingly (can't remember if the Z6 vs Y8 is advanced 4.5*, or retarded.) The other way around it is to chip the P28 OBD1 ECU w/ a map for the Y8. Or, use a fresh map from Crome and set the idle timing to 12 or 16 or whatever you want, just MAKE SURE to set the spark timing w/ the timing light to whatever you input it as. W/ my Y8, I run a chipped P28 and set it to the original 12* in Crome, and then 12* w/ the timing light. If you leave the spark timing the way it is, it's very possible the engine could get some knock/detonation at high RPMs and destroy that little 1.6 liter. The P28 does not have a knock sensor or the programming (or hardware) to run a knock sensor. Detonation WILL kill and engine FAST. The hesitation you feel is because the timing is wrong.
I got EcTune and a basemap for the y8 but the ign timing is at 21.75*, i've read a lot on honda forums and here and there i hear the 21.75* timing is fine because of the 9* advanced or retard (forgot), so can i run that map without changing to a z6 cam or another dizzy? I also seen much basemaps from users that have set the ign timing on 16* or 12* idk what i should run now. Maybe someone with good knowledge can help me out. At this point i don't have anymore $$$ to buy an Z6 Crank or another dizzy lol, spent to much in this car. It's N/A and not boosted.
@@Smallz95 21.75 is the P2P map so if you wanted I believe you can set base timing there and the math should make it line up @ 12 degrees w/ the timing light. That's probably the easiest way to do it.
@@Smallz95 get a finished map from turbo guys. They know what they are doing and you'll see that idle timing is set at 12 and n/a portion of the map tops out at 20.
Thanks soooo much rob!!! Im currently running a d16y8 in an eg as well. I know nothing of the setup and tbh it runs like crap! I'm assuming everything is fine cause no check engine light. It hesitates at take off and bogs down after 5k. Its running a d16y8 dizzy currently with OBD1 ecu/injectors. I'm going to do what you did in the video and copy the set timing at 16 degrees. I guess I'll find out if I need a d15b7 dizzy but luckily I do have one from a previous civic. Love the videos you and Trav post! Watching from Arizona!!
You mention thats a d15b7 distributor? Any issue? I'm running almost the same setup but dont know what dizzy to use or convert which dizzy to make it work...
Hey i have honda city sx8 2000model 1.3 1328cc engine with automatic transmission but know i swap d16y8 vtec with old intake n exhaust n old wiring when i swap the firing order had some issues e.g old firing order is (1234) d16y8 have (4321) so i put distributor upside down its fine no cel in dash smooth rpm at idle but car fuel consumption is to high And stock ecu is p3x G01 is this ecu have vtec output signal? so i turn on the vtec n what to do with fuel consumption
The only reason it feels a little better at cruising is cause advancing will give you better low end torque but kill your top end the Y8 engine already has better low end torque by design bro your manifold is more than likely the reason your engine isn't running right it's like trying to jog while partially covering your mouth both the manifold and the timing being advanced equal higher combustion temps no wonder you blew a head gasket
Did you wire you’re obd2 harness wires directly to the harness for the obd1 ecu? I have that same ecu my problem is it starts when it wants to start but dies almost instantly I’m assuming it’s cause of the way the jumper harness I bought on eBay isn’t wired properly to run the obd1 ecu correctly
first off the timing is off base timing on the y8 is 12* i know you have a p28 but that thing is not climbing right i have a y8 and not once did yours pull like mine my shit rips
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4:24 saving this for personal reference 😅
Set timing light to 0°
Use crankshaft markings to time engine
*Middle of three notches is 16°
First notch is 14°
Third notch is 18°
I have this set up fully built.If you upgrade your cam to a stage 2 NA BC cam you’ll need a y8 dissy so what I did was used a y8 dissy with the z6 wiring and internals and I still needed a adjustable cam gear to get the timing right.
Soo happy you got the car moving again!!! I know the feeling. Going to have some cool weather here soon in Florida too. Keep up the great work👍🏿👍🏿
Hey Robbie, you need to change that auto cluster LOL. Let me know if you need a JDM one, we have plenty here in New Zealand.
How much an ek cluster go for, USD?
If the ignition timing map in the OBD1 ECU is set as a base for 16, then it NEEDS TO BE AT 16!!! If it's advanced above or below, then when it goes to other spots in the RPM range it will be that many degrees above (or below) what it SHOULD be had it been set to 16*. Also, the camshaft sprocket on the D16Z6 (the engine that P28 ran) is 4.5* advanced or retarded from the Y8 cam sprocket. To match it properly, either get the Z6 sprocket and set spark timing to 16*. Or, get a adjustable sprocket and adjust it to 4.5* accordingly (can't remember if the Z6 vs Y8 is advanced 4.5*, or retarded.) The other way around it is to chip the P28 OBD1 ECU w/ a map for the Y8. Or, use a fresh map from Crome and set the idle timing to 12 or 16 or whatever you want, just MAKE SURE to set the spark timing w/ the timing light to whatever you input it as. W/ my Y8, I run a chipped P28 and set it to the original 12* in Crome, and then 12* w/ the timing light.
If you leave the spark timing the way it is, it's very possible the engine could get some knock/detonation at high RPMs and destroy that little 1.6 liter. The P28 does not have a knock sensor or the programming (or hardware) to run a knock sensor. Detonation WILL kill and engine FAST.
The hesitation you feel is because the timing is wrong.
Great advice! I searched on all the old civic forums from Google and found little information. This definitely helps!!
Hey jason, can you give me your email? I've got a similar issue with y8 mini me timing.
I got EcTune and a basemap for the y8 but the ign timing is at 21.75*, i've read a lot on honda forums and here and there i hear the 21.75* timing is fine because of the 9* advanced or retard (forgot), so can i run that map without changing to a z6 cam or another dizzy? I also seen much basemaps from users that have set the ign timing on 16* or 12* idk what i should run now. Maybe someone with good knowledge can help me out. At this point i don't have anymore $$$ to buy an Z6 Crank or another dizzy lol, spent to much in this car. It's N/A and not boosted.
@@Smallz95 21.75 is the P2P map so if you wanted I believe you can set base timing there and the math should make it line up @ 12 degrees w/ the timing light. That's probably the easiest way to do it.
@@Smallz95 get a finished map from turbo guys. They know what they are doing and you'll see that idle timing is set at 12 and n/a portion of the map tops out at 20.
This guys enthusiasm is unreal. Are you planning on upgrading your seats any time soon?
nice man, you should have made a couple pulls for us. always nice to see pulls. keep it up.
Bra you live in a nice area, I must say the grass is very green
Bra🙊
You would be SO HAPPY if you had racing seats!
What ones?
Clean. Nice work, man. Exhaust sounds great at the end of the video.
A Sharpie could be used to remove the auto selection by the fuel and coolant temperature in the gauge cluster.
I thought the Y8 crankpully marks were 0-10-12-14? What pulley are you using?
Chucks Channel maybe a z6 pulley? These have the 0-14-16-18 marks. I think that would make a tune to 16° easier as he has a 16° map i would guess.
@@Smallz95 z6 pulleys fit on a y8 block right
Congratulations on getting the car running!
The bottom pulley is a d16y8 so those marks are 12 degrees for sure
Thanks soooo much rob!!! Im currently running a d16y8 in an eg as well. I know nothing of the setup and tbh it runs like crap! I'm assuming everything is fine cause no check engine light. It hesitates at take off and bogs down after 5k. Its running a d16y8 dizzy currently with OBD1 ecu/injectors. I'm going to do what you did in the video and copy the set timing at 16 degrees. I guess I'll find out if I need a d15b7 dizzy but luckily I do have one from a previous civic. Love the videos you and Trav post! Watching from Arizona!!
Hey Rick, did you ever timed your car with the d16y8 at 16 degrees? If so what was the result?
@@Quicomtb no I haven't. I did some research and it can be done with an adjustable cam gear, or like rob had done was chip the ecu.
@@Quicomtb it still ran like crap when I set it too 16 degrees
@@rickmolina2970 so if i chip my p28 ecu and set it at 12 degrees i should be alright even with the original d16y8 cam gear. is that it?
I'm a honda fan through and through but for some reason anytime I see an EG Hatch I think of shingos slimy ass. If ya know you know.
Idk who that is, do tell.
No where Man! Google is a powerful tool.
Shingo and his gum tape death matches
Your temp gauge should go higher, it should be just a tiny tiny bit under halfway
You mention thats a d15b7 distributor? Any issue? I'm running almost the same setup but dont know what dizzy to use or convert which dizzy to make it work...
2:28 So just "tell" your ECU that you want more timing at high RPM ;-)
What cam gear? Stock y8 p2p or z6 pm3. WHAT MARKS DID U USE.. PLEASE POST A COMMENT..
Do i need conversion harness? For obd2a? Im running p2p for sure i need p28 is obd1 right?
Hey where are you guys located at I have a weird honda engine and not sure if it's a 1.6 or 1.7
How did you adapt the harness to that car?
Need guidance with 98 civic lx with d15b swap
Bro need ur assistant with this. Where u located
Hey i have honda city sx8 2000model 1.3 1328cc engine with automatic transmission but know i swap d16y8 vtec with old intake n exhaust n old wiring when i swap the firing order had some issues e.g old firing order is (1234) d16y8 have (4321) so i put distributor upside down its fine no cel in dash smooth rpm at idle but car fuel consumption is to high
And stock ecu is p3x G01 is this ecu have vtec output signal? so i turn on the vtec n what to do with fuel consumption
Now you need a racing seat!!.🙂😉
Are you running knock sensor
The only reason it feels a little better at cruising is cause advancing will give you better low end torque but kill your top end the Y8 engine already has better low end torque by design bro your manifold is more than likely the reason your engine isn't running right it's like trying to jog while partially covering your mouth both the manifold and the timing being advanced equal higher combustion temps no wonder you blew a head gasket
Really wish you didn’t gut the pour hatch ... so pointless and unneeded...
PUT SOME HEADERS IN IT GET MORE POWER...
Headers on a basically stock D series... not going to add any power, not any worth the cost of a header anyway
@@elliot438bcfcVTEC works for my civic??????
@@russia3728 how much power did you pick up?
@@MK-qv7bq well I put the headers with skunk2 3inch pipe straigh back! I got about 8hp?
Did you wire you’re obd2 harness wires directly to the harness for the obd1 ecu? I have that same ecu my problem is it starts when it wants to start but dies almost instantly I’m assuming it’s cause of the way the jumper harness I bought on eBay isn’t wired properly to run the obd1 ecu correctly
It's the tune. You're probably leaning out on crank.
Vtec just kick in yo !!
For anyone who also has experience in this, if i were to get a d16y8 basemap chip for my p28, could I still run the stock distributor at 12°?
No, you'll need to run the oem b16 distributor
How comes my nephew's d16y8 doesn't say vtec on the valve cover???
My nephew's civic is a 2000.
And it says d16y8 on the block
That’s what all d series engines came with in the 96-00 generation. The never said vtec but some had it like your nephews.
I need to know what ecu to use for my d16y8 swap it’s going in my manual lx civic I have no ecu
I would get the Y8 ecu for a manual if you are sticking to obd2
Refine Movement just order p2p a02 off eBay hopefully it’s a go this the final piece to make my car move again!!!!
Who ever told you advancing the timing is beneficial is a damn fool if you want top end and longevity your taking the opposite route
When doing this do you have a z6 cam gear?
This is still with the Y8 cam gear
Thank you so much for the reply! Nice build btw!
PUT IT IN LIMP MODE
Vtec!!!!
first off the timing is off base timing on the y8 is 12* i know you have a p28 but that thing is not climbing right i have a y8 and not once did yours pull like mine my shit rips
what timing did you use?
You ever stop to get gas lmao?
how much it costs me to rectify the head d16y8 ??? Información
No homo but i want to be your friend... you seem like a fun dude to chill with
that does not look like d16y8 intake manifold what is it
Its actually a d16z6 intake manifold
@@RefineMovement it looks like my d15b manifold
@@RefineMovement is that type better than the one that comes on d15y8
Tires to big man