That's why I'm here now reading this. I keep saying I'm not a Doctor so I don't have patience. So I learn the hard way. At 75 you would think I would know that more is not always better.
Thank you. I think anyone who posts on TH-cam hopefully realizes that they will have to deal with the nonsense that comes with dealing with some people on TH-cam haha.
Brad, I needed you to remind me to have more patience. I've been spray painting with all kinds of paints for over 40 years. I've been creaming at rust oleum spray cans and you just reminded me. I was the one at fault here. That is why I just looked you up. Thanks again for saving me. Although I do hate Rust Oleum!
Good points. Years ago when I started refinishing guitars by first project guitar took literally years to really harden. All because I put on too much paint. I couldn't keep it in a case because the texture of the lining would emboss itself on the guitar. I had to leave it hanging up. It finally hardened and looks good. I still have it and play but I learned my lesson.
Thankyou my friend. Straight to the point. I was drying my spray painted metal junction boxes with a wide open window, and applying it way too thick. Thanks G
I was taught by a older gentleman about 30yrs ago to spray light coats about 3 layers and wait about 10 minutes between coats. This gives you a base covering that will dry and give it a chance to vapor off as he said. Wait about a half hour, then lay on a thicker layer moving slower then you spayed the first coats. Also mind your over laps and distance away from what your spraying. Of course we used a paint booth with heat, bright lights, and controlled humidity. I practice the same with rattle cans. No booth of course . But I lay down a couple sealer coats as they are called. Check for problems. If none , start my final coat or coats building up the layers. But like you said environment and temperature play a big roll in the finish. So does patients! Thanks for your video Brad.
Thanks Wallace. Ya, you used to have to do a tack coat for your clear work as well. Luckily, although some of the specifics change as the compounds improve, a lot of these concepts stay constant.
Huge Help! I've been repainting a customer's bike for the last 2 months, using that paint you had in your video, didn't realize how it takes soo long, I usually can paint and dry within 3-5 days max... this one never dried now I know why... thanks!
Here in San Francisco, summer is like 60 Fahrenheit, windy, humid, and usually foggy, sometimes with visible waves of water vapor sweeping through off the ocean. I paint outdoors, so I always have to wait for the few-and-far-between nice painting days.
This is actually why I started watching your videos way back I sanded down a wooden pool cue stained it then used Rust-Oleum clear gloss enamel on top but everyone was telling me to layer up the clear till the can was empty so of course I did I took good care to make the perfect conditions to paint I was very careful to do light coats but for one pool cue I used an entire can of clear I will admit it did look beautiful but two months after I painted it there could still be dents and divots left behind from anything it was leaning against it even got a bubbly texture from a soft cushion I left it on thinking I was just damaging it on hard edges ended up sanding the whole thing off watching a few of your videos and I finally got it right
@@BradAngove ya I know better thanks to you and your channel and ive been a fan ever since now I'm thinking about taking this next stimulus check if we ever get it and buying a cheap paint gun set up and going back through all your old videos and teach myself to paint ive always been interested in trying to be an automotive body shop painter just never had time to take off to go to any classes and when I have the time I don't have the money but I figured between your videos and that next check and the time I have off I might as well learn a new trade
In my next video, I am starting a redo of the first guitar I painted - where I did exactly what you mention here: too thick coats, too soon. Two YEARS later, it’s still not fully dry. Time to strip it and do something crazy instead.
Brad Angove You heard it here first: I’m going to do something weird and use mica powder for a shimmery finish. Total experiment. Step one is though, is breaking down the tacky awfulness that was the current guitar. That video just went live (not here to link spam, just take my word for it). 😆
Trapped, unevaporated solvents, because I never realized that from time to time... I'm doing the exact thing that you said you should not do. Thanks, Brad. Without this video... I'd still be scratchin my head.
Thanks for another informative video. That’s the beauty of the catalyzed automotive base coat/clear coat system. Spray, flash in 15-20, spray, rinse and repeat. No sanding in between coats and if you use Speedokote like I do, in one hour you can color sand and buff. Thin hard finish, deep gloss and I can spray up to 80% humidity.
My protocol for oil-based enamels such as RUSTOLEUM. Paint, let dry in front of a fan for 24 hours. Repeat as needed. Then, let dry in front of the fan for a few more days. If the parts are small enough, into the kitchen oven they'll go for 170°F for a few days. You'll be able to tell when the scent of off-gassing thinners is absent. I'm currently on day 5 of a bake of 5.5"x25"x1/2" squares of steel to be used for ballast 20 lb. counter-weight plates. They have more than half a dozen paint coats applied. The plates are too big to fit in the oven. But, in a metal trash can with a 500 watt halogen shop light? Perfect! The off-gassing isn't detectable anymore with the plates. So, come tomorrow morning, I'll unplug the halogen light and allow everything to cool down. The paint will be fully cured and the plates ready for installation!
I just built a large poster frame when it was around 60-70 degrees here in Missouri right before the new year. Then it cold snapped down to the teens in temperature but I didn’t want to wait till it warmed up. So I put a portable heater in the garage with me and sprayed two thin coats of gray primer on the frame. Let them dry for a bit to where I could touch the paint and it was not tacky. Then I lightly sprayed on coats of satin black enamel paint and waited 15 minutes in between coats. The only tricky part is I had to open the garage and ventilate in between each coat and wait for the temp to come back up. Garage door controlled said I never fell below 59 degrees but I doubt it really would show a drastic drop in temps. So now I have the frame all done but I didn’t want to leave it in the garage with a heater all night so I turned that off and let it sit over night and it’s super tacky now. But I did bring it inside and have it in a small room with that heater and I am cycling it on full blast on heat for an hour and a half and then off and the door open for the same time and it is slowly getting dry. I figure doing this the rest of the day and then letting it sit for a while will help for sure.
Sweet! Another vid from Brad. 😎 Thanks, brother! 👍 Its nice to come across someone who actually knows what they're talking about. I did automotive refinishing but most, if not all, of it seems like it applies just the same to guitars.
But the enamels like Rust-Oleum says right on the can to wait a few minutes between coats. Even the can is telling you to spray coats before it dries. So confused.
I like your painting videos. That's what drew me to your channel. I loved your interview with Texas toast on Sunday. That was funny. You should do interviews more often.😉
Hey Brad, I've just watched a bunch of your videos, and have a question that's specific to my use case (I think). Right now, it's typically 10-30f degrees outside, and I'm spraying in the garage that i briefly pre-heat with a propane heater before going out there. What I've been doing, is not only heating the paint cans up in buckets of hot water in the house, but also heating up the parts with my Craftsman tornado propane heater right before I spray. So while the environment is most likely around 40-45f after being heated with the heater, it's still very cold. Immediately after spraying, the parts get set in front of the propane heater until they are dry to the touch, at which point I bring them inside to dry for 24 hours. (with a fan in a ventilated area away from common areas). I'm pretty new to spray painting in general, and have not been doing any 'recoats' at all. I'll spray the parts in one session, usually going over the whole part a total of two times. And then I let it dry from there. as opposed to spraying...waiting 10-20 minutes. spraying again, waiting, and then doing the 24 hour wait.. Is it bad to do this? I heard you mention allowing too much time in-between each coat can prevent chemical bonds. So far my process has been 1. sand to bare metal 2. alcohol wipe clean 3. tack cloth wipe 4. coat 1 of self etching primer (this is metal) 5. Wait 24 hours then 240 grit sand, wipe, tack wipe, 2nd primer coat (sanded too much primer on the corners XD). 6. Wait 24 hours, then 240 grit sand, wipe, tack wipe, 1st coat of paint. I then repeated this same process with 2nd and 3rd paint coats, 1 coat per 24 hours. My 3rd paint coat is drying, and it looks like I have great coverage, so i was going to start clear coating. But I'm afraid that my 3 sessions of no 1 spray wiht no recoats is insufficient, where I should really have 3 session of 3 coats per session. Thank you so much for your awesome videos.
Great information Brad ! I have had problems with Rustoleum spray paint here on the Niagara Peninsula because of the humidity levels here so I use Krylon spray paint for all my spray painting now and haven't had any problems with it. I do however use Rustoleum gloss clear coats and that dries just fine.
I have a decent amount of experience spray painting, but I ran into an issue with this using Rust oleum, shiny metallic copper on a stock tank making a planter.. I cannot for the life of me get this paint to dry. Is there anything I can do so it’s not tacky? I don’t know if I can hit it with my leaf blower, hairdryer, or just try to clearcoat over it and hope that it seals and hardens.. but I’m getting frustrated because I wanted to do this to A stock tank pool but I don’t dare try to paint it until I figure out what I’m doing wrong… the paint never really came out of the can correctly. It seemed like something was off from the beginning.
Excellent! I just sanded down some coat and found the undried layer. Still sticky. But there's more! I sanded down radiatorpaint! It went quietly! Easy to remove from a guitarbody. And added black montana gold. Round the edges. After 30 min i added cellulose coat. No problem either with black or the thin remains of radiatorwhite. But rain however, doesn't take well to cellulose lacquer. So tomorrow is sanding day again. U know drying the paint with an electric fan is that clever? The type u can have to warm your feet in the car? Or a small apartment. Must be great. Here we go!
Great video, now I am feeling bad about to not watch it before I ruined my guitar :D I paint my guitar with too thick paint coats with acrylic paint. Paint is after month still gummy. Now I think about to wait another month if it dry or repaint. But the answer is maybe very easy.
Brad any chance you could provide a video like this about staining a guitar with either water or solvent based types please as well as oil finishes. I know you tested out the Crimson stunning stains and it maybe something you could give people advice about that don’t paint their guitars. Many thanks
well most of my problem is that most matte coats turn out tacky specially on pvc and soffter plastics, the only matte spray that i havent had problems with is tamiya
@@BradAngove yeah, i usually use a duplicolor primer but for some reason when i use rubber or softer pvc matte sprays just dont workout well, some matte finnishers turnout the same as well
I’m painting cornhole boards using Krylon paint. One I painted color designs with color and primer directly on the wood and then painted clear glossy over. However I got some bleeding in the grain of the wood from the color below the tape. So the next one I painted the clear first with about two coats. Next day I taped off for the color designs and got a sharper line. However after waiting next day I painted both again with clear. The one with clear on top of the color after sanding with steel wool, the clear came out very glossy. The other one with the color on top of the clear and also sanding with steel wool and also wiped down with a little alcohol, that one the color got crinkled and the clear was dull. Then next day I sanded the color smooth and used tack cloth and painted one coat of color and after 10 mins painted the clear. Still a little rough and did the same the next day with sanding and clear. Board is smooth now but clear is still dull. I can’t understand why i got different results. One dull and one glossy. And the one that’s glossy is a not a slippery surface. It’s not tacky but it seems so smooth that the bean bag won’t slide on top of the board. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
@@BradAngove not shiny. I did put another coat on and it’s a little more shiny. However now the tops of the boards are not slippery for the bean bags to slide on. Would it make sense to rub them down with wax paper or what else can I do to make them slippery?
Oh, they’re sticking to the gloss? That’s no surprise. If you don’t mind losing a little shine I would flat sand them with some 2000 or 2500 grit paper. That should make them slippery.
Please help ! I just thinned Day Glo Fluorescent paints and sprayed them on wood in thin coats like a stain. Thinned it with paint thinner as suggested on the can . Now the paint has dried powdery and can be rubbed right off . Would sealing it with a matte lacquer stop this ? I don’t have time to repaint it . And there will be lots of people walking around near it and possibly on it in the morning. I’m so upset! It looked GORGEOUS and I was so proud til I touched it and saw it powdering away. It’s a Blacklight mini golf course in a rental house . I’ll not have any time to redo it . Sorry for the long post . I have Deft matte clear spray laquer . Doesn’t seem to interfere with the black light glow.
Lacquer should seal it in, but it’s also pretty toxic. I’d be very hesitant to have a bunch of freshly lacquered wood in a home with a lot of people walking around.
Thanks for the great content, Brad. I fight with the weather here in the gator country of SE Texas. As I type it's 92*F, 51% humidity, heat index 101*F at 16:20... Every day is a challenge here without a climate controlled booth!!
Ok I learned something! Just did a beautiful candy violet lacquer (duplicolor no mix auto) over a metallic gold base with gold flake over it. I’m sure I layed over too many coats too fast, and tried to get after the orange peel after 2 days! And it’s very humid.🤦🏻♂️ (And yeah, I’m doing it all over again)
@@BradAngove I’m not sure what it is, as I seem to have the same problem (Never harden) with both poly and lacquer. It’s gotta be too many coats too fast. I can find no other explanation.
You are becoming my go-to man :) How do they deal with degassing/recoat windows when doing those multi tone layer candy´s ? I have seen people laminating base, stripes/motives, metallic, pearl and several tones of candy before end sealing with a several layers of clear just for good measure to sand down a showroom flat
The safest way in my view is to do your 2-3 coats and then, within the appropriate recoat window, hit it with a midcoat clear. That preserves what you’ve done and also allows for a barrier that you can sand for adhesion and flatness before moving on (after adequate drying time of course).
I bought this awesome new cheap clear... got the gallon and hardener for 50 bucks! Sprayed so darn well... and on the first couple pieces I did, it hardened up beautifully. Well the last four attempts, after 3 days I can still press the edge of my fingernail in and get it to leave a mark on this 2k urethane clear coat... something is up! I am about to start using more hardener than it calls for.
@@BradAngove Upstate NY. It is winter time! We had a few warm evenings... base and primer went on just fine but I am guessing you are right that it just wasn't warm enough for it. Is that the case?
That could certainly be the case. Even catalyzed clears dry better when warm. In fact many of them are designed to be applied in a booth that is then heated to cure them.
@@BradAngove Yeah... after I sent the comment to you I kind of thought more about it. The first piece I did where it worked perfectly it was almost 70 out... everything else was 55 to 60... thats gotta be it. Why anyone would live in NY I have no clue. Nothing but high taxes and shit weather. Thanks for the reply sir, I am impressed at how you get to everyone with a channel of your size.
Wish I had seen this before taking on a new project. My painting looks horrible with markings as I touch/moved/handled it too quickly (hours) after finishing. Now I am not sure if it will ever gonna dry (acrylic spray paint), guess I'll just leave it as it is for 6 weeks and see how it gonna be like then
This is why if it's small enough we paint with rust oleum inside a tanning bed lower the top down after painting and then 20 minutes in UV light. Don't look at it it will hurt your eyes and cure it out like nail salons. Some LED light will cure out paint as well. Just remember don't look at the sun nor a tanning bed without eye protection from ultra Violet light after painting.
It has been about a week since 2K clearcoat and about 3-4 weeks since coloring the guitar. My thumbnail still causes a slight indentation. Does this mean it won't ever dry and I should just put the guitar back together? I would imagine since I did the clear coat already, it's too late to dry. Thank you for always being so helpful.
That is surprising. Has the guitar been stored somewhere very cold? 2K continues to harden for at least a couple weeks, so I would keep it somewhere warm and dry for another week or so and then check it again.
I'm using liquitex acrylic spray paint for my first try at painting a guitar. I am terrified of touching it since it's water based and seems like it will take a long time to dry
@@BradAngove I applied it how you recommend to apply sprays with the overlapping runs but since it sprays thicker than standard cans it went on pretty heavy. I tested with my finger nail and it is definitely getting there though :) give it a few more days to settle and I'll do a 2nd much lighter coat to cover some patchy areas
Great Brad informative as usual. Any tips on wipe on poly? Saw a tutorial that said wipe on then wait a few minutes then wipe off. However the instructions on the tin said wipe on generously and wait 1-2 hours then sand and apply next coat. Kind of confusing so was hoping you could shed some light on the right way. Thanks Brad.
The wipe on wipe off method is for oil. Poly is a film finish and shouldn’t be applied that way. Follow the instructions on the can, and keep the coats relatively light.
That is basically what happened to me. I sprayed 2 light coats and then, after 10 minutes, a very thick third coat. Three days later, it still looks tacky at the touch, and I really hope it to dry properly. It seems to be drying, sooner or later, but I can't tell it. Anyways, if it won't dry in a week, I'm planning to remove some material with a relatively fine grit like 320 or so. Fortunately, the conditions are perfect. Warm and dry.
@@Kiryulookingatsky yes It did. I had to wait a couple more days, and then I sprayed the clear coat. It dried in less than 24 hours to the touch, but I decided to wait 7 days, just to be sure. I sanded out up to 2000, compound, polish and wax. Now, I'm givin'it another week of time, even if it's apparently ok. It is very hot here, and I didn't expect such a long drying time, but here I am. Better to wait than to regret.
Hey brad, im painting on metal, tremclad aluminum, it doesnt really want to drive despite only putting on the last coat thicker, it still rubs off on my hand slightly.. Just wondering would a heat gun help the curing process? Whats your typical curing time with tremclad ? Some people complain it takes much too long to dry properly.
I’ve had some issues with it before. Sometimes it takes weeks. Some people have had issues with it never quite hardening. If it’s been on there for more than a few days you could try a heat gun. Just don’t get too close or you will melt the paint instead of baking it.
impatience is the problem. there are reasons why some people build projects and a house out of wood and i do not . the same thing with painting objects such as models and guitars and cars.. not being mean but some people get it and some do not. trust me i dont seem to get better at certain things more than i like to admit. I am 63 years old and have never had duplicolor paints not dry. not trying to be an a hole but....
Thanks so much for your videos! You’ve been my only guide pretty much as I finish my first guitar. So the fingernail test… should my nail leave no imprint at all on a spraymax 2k clear coat before moving to sanding and polishing? Should I start in a few days anyway?
you could always heat up the paint can and object being painted with a heat gun. The paint can will work better, and the paint will dry a little faster when the object being painted is warm
Yeah I fucked up a Ibanez destroyer one time, I was to excited to get finished and I think I rushed the clear, it took like 3 weeks to dry and become solid, I ended up selling it later after a while lol, now I know what probably happened! Won't do that again!
Hey, Brad! I spray paint a lot of 3D prints that I then have to mail. I put bubblewrap around these painted prints and everything does just fine EXCEPT for Rustoleum's bright copper spray paint with the metallic finish. What ends up happening is during shipping the bubble wraps presses into the paint, thus failing the fingernail test. None of my other metallic paints give me this issue. Should I be waiting days in between spraying coats?
Here I am watching painting tutorial. Last time I used this knowledge for impregnating my rain coat. Human watching habits will remain a mystery :v Nonetheless thanks that you are sharing this knowledge. I hope that someday I'll have a chance to paint a guitar and it will be good
You have probably covered this at some point, but what is the best way to hold/hang a set neck guitar while finishing? I’ve heard an eyelet in the body where the strap button will eventually be, which seems like it would work. Others have said a wire through the tuner holes, which doesn’t seem like it would work well. Also, I live in an area that always has some level of humidity. I’ve heard that you don’t want to paint (lacquer) when it is 70% or more. Is there an ideal humidity?
Either of those options work. I prefer the hook screwed into the bottom strap button hole, but I’ve hung them from the tuning leg holes before. You just need something stiff so it doesn’t contact the headstock too much. Less humidity is better for lacquer. When you get into the higher humidity ranges you can add a bit of retarder to help avoid blushing.
I paint wood desk and I wait it for 36hours it look dry but he is not even Ihe look dry but I have a problem of packaging it he leave some traces of plastic packing
Have you ever used preval spray? I want to mix polyurethane with a color to get a hue effect and spray it but I'm not sure if it's better to wipe it on instead
Hey Brad, once again great info and advice for us amateurs. I live in the dry desert and oddly getting blushing after applying thin coats of sanding sealer. I stained the body with trans tint mixed with denatured alcohol. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Maybe my coats aren’t as light as I thought?
So let’s just say “someone” new to guitar finishing used rust oleum acrylic and created a pretty fantastic paint scheme/job, but committed just about all of these errors along the way. He’s having a little problem with the dry top, and mushy underneath…I’d there any way that this guy can save this project?
The only option that comes to mind, and it’s far from a guarantee (probably less than 50% chance of working) is essentially baking it. Put it somewhere really warm and dry, but not in direct sunlight, for a couple days and see if that hardens it.
@@BradAngove thanks for the reply. It’s actually improved a bit in the past couple days. This has been a crazy experience so far. Didn’t know much about paints and finishing before this-not much at all really. Just about every decision so far has been the wrong one….there’s quite a bit to take into consideration. At least I have a base of knowledge going forward. Thanks again
My clear coat is still soft after 2 months, I wonder why, even I do flash off between coat according to instructions of clear coat, but it's still soft😢, please help me, thanks in advance, and sorry for my English.
I’m trying to spray paint a controller and I think I applied the bottom coat too heavy like you said. How do I fix that because you said not to sand wet paint?
Hy i have a problem.. i painted plastic many times with chrome effect spray, the result is amazing its mirror effect...BUT..... after 24h if i take the piece my finger prints stay on... i tried with plastic primer before the chrome effect and without, and with plastic primer then grey coat and after it dryes then with chrome effect spray, and NO MATTER WHAT my finger prints stays on that stuf...its like it never dries full....PLEASE HELP ME !!!
So I spray painted a plastic bumper. Sanded, adhesion promoter, filler primer, sanded and painted. The guy at the auto store I bought the spray paint from said the paint has clear coat in it so there was no need to spray a clear coat on it. I painted the bumper and faced it on it's face to screw on some parts and some paint was left on the cloth it was laying on. Obviously it is not fully dry. Should I spray some clear coat on it? If so, do I have to wait until it's fully dry to spray the clear coat or can I do it now?
I'm wanting to paint fishing lures with acrylic paint. I'm putting the paint on very thin without thinning the paint but it still pulls together and leaves bare patches! I've cleaned the aluminium foil beforehand with 99.9% isopropanol alcohol and allowed to dry. Any advice would be gratefully received. Merry Christmas and a Happy & Healthy New Year.
Hey Brad, Thanks for another awesome video. My question is.... what is the fix if we have already sprayed too thick...etc? and we have a situation where our paint ( in my case 2k clear) is still soft underneath? do we sand back and start again?
I find acrylic is a absolute pain to dry and for me the conditions have to be perfect and its just not cost effective if painting a guitar. That's why I paint 90% of the time in nitro or polly. And I like the feel of nitro over the plastic feel of polly. But lots of people watch a few videos and think they can get factory results withcar paints froma can but that doesn't happen very often. How's the build going?
Ya, acrylics can be very easy to use in some conditions, and very finicky in others. The build is coming along nicely. I’m waiting on a few parts before I can continue, which isn’t great because I’m running out of time, but it’ll be good.
Hi. Thank you for this video. Question. If the too thick too fast is the problem and is dry on the surface but if i press to hard in it i can see my finger print or nail mark will eventually dry? Or is it a done deal? How can i help this issue? Should i let it site for more time? Weeks or month. Is a table i painted. Been 2 weeks now. And i painted it in my garage. One day weather was hot next cold. Hot as 85 then cold as 65. Virginia weather sucks.
Rust-Oleum 2k purple? One light dust. 20 min........second coat thin but even nice coverage. 25 min then touched to sticky tack but no gloppy or stringing out. Final thin coat approx 4" more distance. No clear. Temp in Ohio was at 87 mid humidity. Day 3 as of now still having light nail indentation. Will sanding back with my 800 help de-gas. Or should I give it a few weeks to cure then sand for my final+clear together within flashing spec? Opinions* Applying to 1959 Schwinn Corvette trike. Original Chicago made steel covered in black high build sandable primer. (Brand not remembered but from AutoZone. I also wondered if it may be reaction to primer or how long that can was on the shelf
No worries. That stuff doesn’t have a catalyst like an actual 2K would. Depending on how heavy it’s on there it can take a few weeks to dry. Sanding might help a bit, but if it’s soft you could end up with a mess and your paper will gum up immediately.
Are there any sort of dehydration drying chamber we can put the painted objects in that's not a heated chamber? I have 3D printed props that can't take any heat.
Thank you so much for your information. I used a oil paint on a dresser . I did exactly what you said , I applied and I didn't wait long enough to apply the next coat . Its been a little over a week an half and its still sticky to touch . What can I do about this stickyness so I can finally get it out of the garage and in my house. Please help ! Thank you!
@@BradAngove varathane wood stain. Today I decided to prime it and chalk paint it tomorrow. Im so done with this piece!!! Lol. My email is IrisSadowski@yahoo.com. i will send you pictures. . Thank you so very much for replying to me!! 😊😊😊😊☺
I have just watched a video about paint drying.
🤣
Lol the new way to watch paint dry
I have just responded to a comment about watching paint dry.
I am just responding to a comment about a comme....wth am I doing
@@Hellachoppa-oi2ekThese videos are useful if you’re doing a project and don’t want your work to look like shiat
My biggest problem is impatience! I'm like "It's good". Then I'm like "Oh shit".
Quite right, DayRider; been there, done that -- more than once! Best, most basic advice I can offer is: don't hurry.
Ya, that’ll get ya. I’ve heard a lot of questions coming from the “spray first ask questions later” group haha.
That's why I'm here now reading this. I keep saying I'm not a Doctor so I don't have patience. So I learn the hard way. At 75 you would think I would know that more is not always better.
Funny guy 😂 lol
This man's trying to help ppl need to quit being rude he's trying.God bless
Thank you. I think anyone who posts on TH-cam hopefully realizes that they will have to deal with the nonsense that comes with dealing with some people on TH-cam haha.
Brad, I needed you to remind me to have more patience. I've been spray painting with all kinds of paints for over 40 years. I've been creaming at rust oleum spray cans and you just reminded me. I was the one at fault here. That is why I just looked you up. Thanks again for saving me. Although I do hate Rust Oleum!
Great information Brad.
Thank you for covering this information.
And I believe EVERYONE has applied paint too heavily at one time or another.
Ya, I’m sure it’s happened to all of us.
Aaaaand now I know why the headstock I just painted is still soft - Thx Brad!
Glad I could help.
Roberto venn grad?
Good points. Years ago when I started refinishing guitars by first project guitar took literally years to really harden. All because I put on too much paint. I couldn't keep it in a case because the texture of the lining would emboss itself on the guitar. I had to leave it hanging up. It finally hardened and looks good. I still have it and play but I learned my lesson.
Yikes. I’m glad it finally hardened.
Thankyou my friend. Straight to the point.
I was drying my spray painted metal junction boxes with a wide open window, and applying it way too thick.
Thanks G
I was taught by a older gentleman about 30yrs ago to spray light coats about 3 layers and wait about 10 minutes between coats. This gives you a base covering that will dry and give it a chance to vapor off as he said. Wait about a half hour, then lay on a thicker layer moving slower then you spayed the first coats. Also mind your over laps and distance away from what your spraying. Of course we used a paint booth with heat, bright lights, and controlled humidity. I practice the same with rattle cans. No booth of course . But I lay down a couple sealer coats as they are called. Check for problems. If none , start my final coat or coats building up the layers. But like you said environment and temperature play a big roll in the finish. So does patients!
Thanks for your video Brad.
Thanks Wallace. Ya, you used to have to do a tack coat for your clear work as well. Luckily, although some of the specifics change as the compounds improve, a lot of these concepts stay constant.
Huge Help! I've been repainting a customer's bike for the last 2 months, using that paint you had in your video, didn't realize how it takes soo long, I usually can paint and dry within 3-5 days max... this one never dried now I know why... thanks!
Glad I could help
The more you wait (between coats) the better. Learnt it the hard way!
Thank you.
Here in San Francisco, summer is like 60 Fahrenheit, windy, humid, and usually foggy, sometimes with visible waves of water vapor sweeping through off the ocean. I paint outdoors, so I always have to wait for the few-and-far-between nice painting days.
That’s does make things more difficult. By a long shot. Here the hardest part is finding somewhere warm enough to paint in the winter.
This is actually why I started watching your videos way back I sanded down a wooden pool cue stained it then used Rust-Oleum clear gloss enamel on top but everyone was telling me to layer up the clear till the can was empty so of course I did I took good care to make the perfect conditions to paint I was very careful to do light coats but for one pool cue I used an entire can of clear I will admit it did look beautiful but two months after I painted it there could still be dents and divots left behind from anything it was leaning against it even got a bubbly texture from a soft cushion I left it on thinking I was just damaging it on hard edges ended up sanding the whole thing off watching a few of your videos and I finally got it right
Yikes. That is a common mistake with spray cans. For some reason people think “the more paint, the better”. Which, as you know, I disagree with.
@@BradAngove ya I know better thanks to you and your channel and ive been a fan ever since now I'm thinking about taking this next stimulus check if we ever get it and buying a cheap paint gun set up and going back through all your old videos and teach myself to paint ive always been interested in trying to be an automotive body shop painter just never had time to take off to go to any classes and when I have the time I don't have the money but I figured between your videos and that next check and the time I have off I might as well learn a new trade
Nice, I hope that goes well for you. It’s a fun one.
@@BradAngove thanks I appreciate it bud
In my next video, I am starting a redo of the first guitar I painted - where I did exactly what you mention here: too thick coats, too soon. Two YEARS later, it’s still not fully dry. Time to strip it and do something crazy instead.
I hope the next one goes well for you.
Brad Angove You heard it here first: I’m going to do something weird and use mica powder for a shimmery finish. Total experiment. Step one is though, is breaking down the tacky awfulness that was the current guitar. That video just went live (not here to link spam, just take my word for it). 😆
Please keep chastising. It is the clearest way for me to learn to fix beginner problems. Thanks for the lesson.
Trapped, unevaporated solvents, because I never realized that from time to time... I'm doing the exact thing that you said you should not do.
Thanks, Brad. Without this video... I'd still be scratchin my head.
Glad I could help
Thanks for another informative video. That’s the beauty of the catalyzed automotive base coat/clear coat system. Spray, flash in 15-20, spray, rinse and repeat. No sanding in between coats and if you use Speedokote like I do, in one hour you can color sand and buff. Thin hard finish, deep gloss and I can spray up to 80% humidity.
Ya, that’s good stuff. The extra fast hardening is helpful, especially in warm conditions.
My protocol for oil-based enamels such as RUSTOLEUM. Paint, let dry in front of a fan for 24 hours. Repeat as needed.
Then, let dry in front of the fan for a few more days.
If the parts are small enough, into the kitchen oven they'll go for 170°F for a few days. You'll be able to tell when the scent of off-gassing thinners is absent.
I'm currently on day 5 of a bake of 5.5"x25"x1/2" squares of steel to be used for ballast 20 lb. counter-weight plates. They have more than half a dozen paint coats applied. The plates are too big to fit in the oven. But, in a metal trash can with a 500 watt halogen shop light? Perfect!
The off-gassing isn't detectable anymore with the plates. So, come tomorrow morning, I'll unplug the halogen light and allow everything to cool down. The paint will be fully cured and the plates ready for installation!
I just built a large poster frame when it was around 60-70 degrees here in Missouri right before the new year. Then it cold snapped down to the teens in temperature but I didn’t want to wait till it warmed up. So I put a portable heater in the garage with me and sprayed two thin coats of gray primer on the frame. Let them dry for a bit to where I could touch the paint and it was not tacky. Then I lightly sprayed on coats of satin black enamel paint and waited 15 minutes in between coats. The only tricky part is I had to open the garage and ventilate in between each coat and wait for the temp to come back up. Garage door controlled said I never fell below 59 degrees but I doubt it really would show a drastic drop in temps.
So now I have the frame all done but I didn’t want to leave it in the garage with a heater all night so I turned that off and let it sit over night and it’s super tacky now. But I did bring it inside and have it in a small room with that heater and I am cycling it on full blast on heat for an hour and a half and then off and the door open for the same time and it is slowly getting dry. I figure doing this the rest of the day and then letting it sit for a while will help for sure.
Sweet! Another vid from Brad. 😎 Thanks, brother! 👍
Its nice to come across someone who actually knows what they're talking about. I did automotive refinishing but most, if not all, of it seems like it applies just the same to guitars.
There are lots of options for guitars, but when you’re spraying the concepts are very similar to automotive work.
It’s good you are shaming us, it’s how most of us learn. Thanks Brad!!
Hahaha
Thanks for your brilliant help. I tried cellulose thinner and it seems to have worked
Glad to hear it
Thanks. X.
Now I know why it won't dry. I was trying to hurry before it started raining. My job is All ruined.😢
This guy's a genius
But the enamels like Rust-Oleum says right on the can to wait a few minutes between coats. Even the can is telling you to spray coats before it dries. So confused.
I like your painting videos. That's what drew me to your channel. I loved your interview with Texas toast on Sunday. That was funny. You should do interviews more often.😉
Like I said on that video, I think that’s the best I’ve ever looked.
I would add that some types of lacquer never gets fully hard and are engineered to be soft, to be used on Sea equippment
Good point
Hey Brad,
I've just watched a bunch of your videos, and have a question that's specific to my use case (I think).
Right now, it's typically 10-30f degrees outside, and I'm spraying in the garage that i briefly pre-heat with a propane heater before going out there. What I've been doing, is not only heating the paint cans up in buckets of hot water in the house, but also heating up the parts with my Craftsman tornado propane heater right before I spray. So while the environment is most likely around 40-45f after being heated with the heater, it's still very cold. Immediately after spraying, the parts get set in front of the propane heater until they are dry to the touch, at which point I bring them inside to dry for 24 hours. (with a fan in a ventilated area away from common areas).
I'm pretty new to spray painting in general, and have not been doing any 'recoats' at all. I'll spray the parts in one session, usually going over the whole part a total of two times. And then I let it dry from there. as opposed to spraying...waiting 10-20 minutes. spraying again, waiting, and then doing the 24 hour wait.. Is it bad to do this? I heard you mention allowing too much time in-between each coat can prevent chemical bonds. So far my process has been
1. sand to bare metal 2. alcohol wipe clean 3. tack cloth wipe 4. coat 1 of self etching primer (this is metal) 5. Wait 24 hours then 240 grit sand, wipe, tack wipe, 2nd primer coat (sanded too much primer on the corners XD). 6. Wait 24 hours, then 240 grit sand, wipe, tack wipe, 1st coat of paint.
I then repeated this same process with 2nd and 3rd paint coats, 1 coat per 24 hours. My 3rd paint coat is drying, and it looks like I have great coverage, so i was going to start clear coating. But I'm afraid that my 3 sessions of no 1 spray wiht no recoats is insufficient, where I should really have 3 session of 3 coats per session.
Thank you so much for your awesome videos.
I useed rust oleum 2x primer .but now no paint will cure over top.
Great information Brad ! I have had problems with Rustoleum spray paint here on the Niagara Peninsula because of the humidity levels here so I use Krylon spray paint for all my spray painting now and haven't had any problems with it. I do however use Rustoleum gloss clear coats and that dries just fine.
Intriguing. I wonder why that would be the case.
@@BradAngove It must have to do with the drying agent they use, I wonder if other people have experienced the same thing.
Absolutely top informative video mate!! 👍🏼
Great video. Super helpful. Thank you.
I have a decent amount of experience spray painting, but I ran into an issue with this using Rust oleum, shiny metallic copper on a stock tank making a planter.. I cannot for the life of me get this paint to dry. Is there anything I can do so it’s not tacky? I don’t know if I can hit it with my leaf blower, hairdryer, or just try to clearcoat over it and hope that it seals and hardens.. but I’m getting frustrated because I wanted to do this to A stock tank pool but I don’t dare try to paint it until I figure out what I’m doing wrong… the paint never really came out of the can correctly. It seemed like something was off from the beginning.
Thanks Brad. Very informative content, good job
Thanks Steven
Excellent! I just sanded down some coat and found the undried layer. Still sticky. But there's more! I sanded down radiatorpaint! It went quietly! Easy to remove from a guitarbody. And added black montana gold. Round the edges. After 30 min i added cellulose coat. No problem either with black or the thin remains of radiatorwhite. But rain however, doesn't take well to cellulose lacquer. So tomorrow is sanding day again. U know drying the paint with an electric fan is that clever? The type u can have to warm your feet in the car? Or a small apartment. Must be great. Here we go!
Be careful if you’re using a heat lamp or something similar to dry your paint. One of my viewers accidentally lit his guitar on fire doing that.
As usual - great stuff dude!!!
Thanks Jay
Great video, now I am feeling bad about to not watch it before I ruined my guitar :D I paint my guitar with too thick paint coats with acrylic paint. Paint is after month still gummy. Now I think about to wait another month if it dry or repaint. But the answer is maybe very easy.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Brad any chance you could provide a video like this about staining a guitar with either water or solvent based types please as well as oil finishes. I know you tested out the Crimson stunning stains and it maybe something you could give people advice about that don’t paint their guitars. Many thanks
I can do a video about that, yes. Good idea.
well most of my problem is that most matte coats turn out tacky specially on pvc and soffter plastics, the only matte spray that i havent had problems with is tamiya
Are you using a plastic compatible primer first?
@@BradAngove yeah, i usually use a duplicolor primer but for some reason when i use rubber or softer pvc matte sprays just dont workout well, some matte finnishers turnout the same as well
Thanks a lot for the tips!
Ty
I’m painting cornhole boards using Krylon paint. One I painted color designs with color and primer directly on the wood and then painted clear glossy over. However I got some bleeding in the grain of the wood from the color below the tape. So the next one I painted the clear first with about two coats. Next day I taped off for the color designs and got a sharper line. However after waiting next day I painted both again with clear. The one with clear on top of the color after sanding with steel wool, the clear came out very glossy. The other one with the color on top of the clear and also sanding with steel wool and also wiped down with a little alcohol, that one the color got crinkled and the clear was dull. Then next day I sanded the color smooth and used tack cloth and painted one coat of color and after 10 mins painted the clear. Still a little rough and did the same the next day with sanding and clear. Board is smooth now but clear is still dull. I can’t understand why i got different results. One dull and one glossy. And the one that’s glossy is a not a slippery surface. It’s not tacky but it seems so smooth that the bean bag won’t slide on top of the board.
Is there anything I can do to fix this?
When you say dull, what do you mean? Hazy/cloudy? Or not shiny?
@@BradAngove not shiny. I did put another coat on and it’s a little more shiny. However now the tops of the boards are not slippery for the bean bags to slide on. Would it make sense to rub them down with wax paper or what else can I do to make them slippery?
Oh, they’re sticking to the gloss? That’s no surprise. If you don’t mind losing a little shine I would flat sand them with some 2000 or 2500 grit paper. That should make them slippery.
Very clear...more light coats with mucho drying time good. :)
Indeed
I recommend this video to any rookies like me who made all the mistakes this video tells you to avoid.
Hopefully it will help!
Another good informative video brad !!
Thanks Terry!
Great informative tutorial.
Your tutorial is very professional, thorough and straight to the point. It’s ranks with one of the best I’ve seen on TH-cam yet.⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
I appreciate that Lenard. Thank you.
Please help ! I just thinned Day Glo Fluorescent paints and sprayed them on wood in thin coats like a stain. Thinned it with paint thinner as suggested on the can . Now the paint has dried powdery and can be rubbed right off . Would sealing it with a matte lacquer stop this ? I don’t have time to repaint it . And there will be lots of people walking around near it and possibly on it in the morning. I’m so upset! It looked GORGEOUS and I was so proud til I touched it and saw it powdering away. It’s a Blacklight mini golf course in a rental house . I’ll not have any time to redo it . Sorry for the long post . I have Deft matte clear spray laquer . Doesn’t seem to interfere with the black light glow.
Lacquer should seal it in, but it’s also pretty toxic. I’d be very hesitant to have a bunch of freshly lacquered wood in a home with a lot of people walking around.
Thanks for the great content, Brad. I fight with the weather here in the gator country of SE Texas. As I type it's 92*F, 51% humidity, heat index 101*F at 16:20... Every day is a challenge here without a climate controlled booth!!
Yikes. That’s brutal.
@@BradAngove Right? Painting here is acetitone friendly in the summer. Or something... Paint even sweats here! Lol!
👍 Great advice! Thanks 😁
Ok I learned something!
Just did a beautiful candy violet lacquer (duplicolor no mix auto) over a metallic gold base with gold flake over it.
I’m sure I layed over too many coats too fast, and tried to get after the orange peel after 2 days! And it’s very humid.🤦🏻♂️
(And yeah, I’m doing it all over again)
Sorry to hear that. It can be difficult to get the timing figured out with that type of finish.
@@BradAngove I’m not sure what it is, as I seem to have the same problem
(Never harden) with both poly and lacquer.
It’s gotta be too many coats too fast. I can find no other explanation.
The humidity can also be an issue with that type of paint.
Love your channel sir. Is there a way to fix the apparently not ever fully drying surface?
You can try putting it somewhere relatively warm for a while. Sometimes that helps.
You are becoming my go-to man :) How do they deal with degassing/recoat windows when doing those multi tone layer candy´s ? I have seen people laminating base, stripes/motives, metallic, pearl and several tones of candy before end sealing with a several layers of clear just for good measure to sand down a showroom flat
The safest way in my view is to do your 2-3 coats and then, within the appropriate recoat window, hit it with a midcoat clear. That preserves what you’ve done and also allows for a barrier that you can sand for adhesion and flatness before moving on (after adequate drying time of course).
I needed that
Great info! Do you happen to have a fix if we do encounter these? Thanks
Baking it works sometimes, but generally the only fix is to remove most of it and re-spray.
thanks man
I bought this awesome new cheap clear... got the gallon and hardener for 50 bucks! Sprayed so darn well... and on the first couple pieces I did, it hardened up beautifully. Well the last four attempts, after 3 days I can still press the edge of my fingernail in and get it to leave a mark on this 2k urethane clear coat... something is up! I am about to start using more hardener than it calls for.
You’re not spraying in a cold area are you?
@@BradAngove Upstate NY. It is winter time! We had a few warm evenings... base and primer went on just fine but I am guessing you are right that it just wasn't warm enough for it. Is that the case?
That could certainly be the case. Even catalyzed clears dry better when warm. In fact many of them are designed to be applied in a booth that is then heated to cure them.
@@BradAngove Yeah... after I sent the comment to you I kind of thought more about it. The first piece I did where it worked perfectly it was almost 70 out... everything else was 55 to 60... thats gotta be it. Why anyone would live in NY I have no clue. Nothing but high taxes and shit weather. Thanks for the reply sir, I am impressed at how you get to everyone with a channel of your size.
@@glytch5 below 55-60 it almost completely stops curing.
How did it end up now? Did you get the hard surface or did a redo?
Great video!! 😁👍
Wish I had seen this before taking on a new project. My painting looks horrible with markings as I touch/moved/handled it too quickly (hours) after finishing. Now I am not sure if it will ever gonna dry (acrylic spray paint), guess I'll just leave it as it is for 6 weeks and see how it gonna be like then
Try to keep it somewhere as warm and dry as possible.
This is why if it's small enough we paint with rust oleum inside a tanning bed lower the top down after painting and then 20 minutes in UV light. Don't look at it it will hurt your eyes and cure it out like nail salons. Some LED light will cure out paint as well. Just remember don't look at the sun nor a tanning bed without eye protection from ultra Violet light after painting.
I feel sooooo chastised.😂😂😂😂😂 I learned. Give time to dry between coats, allow it to cure. And don't drive a Cadillac. Or was that catalyst??
I’m not sure I would drive either one of those. Maybe a catalytic converter?
It has been about a week since 2K clearcoat and about 3-4 weeks since coloring the guitar. My thumbnail still causes a slight indentation. Does this mean it won't ever dry and I should just put the guitar back together? I would imagine since I did the clear coat already, it's too late to dry. Thank you for always being so helpful.
That is surprising. Has the guitar been stored somewhere very cold?
2K continues to harden for at least a couple weeks, so I would keep it somewhere warm and dry for another week or so and then check it again.
@@BradAngove it is stored in my house which is around 70 degrees at all times. I may just need to let it cure for a month or so.
Does any one have some good experience rattle can painting gun slides? Particularly with Krylon metallics.
I'm using liquitex acrylic spray paint for my first try at painting a guitar. I am terrified of touching it since it's water based and seems like it will take a long time to dry
How are you applying it?
@@BradAngove I applied it how you recommend to apply sprays with the overlapping runs but since it sprays thicker than standard cans it went on pretty heavy. I tested with my finger nail and it is definitely getting there though :) give it a few more days to settle and I'll do a 2nd much lighter coat to cover some patchy areas
Ok, I see. Liquitex is available in a few formats so I wasn’t sure if you were using spray cans or something else.
Great Brad informative as usual. Any tips on wipe on poly? Saw a tutorial that said wipe on then wait a few minutes then wipe off. However the instructions on the tin said wipe on generously and wait 1-2 hours then sand and apply next coat. Kind of confusing so was hoping you could shed some light on the right way. Thanks Brad.
The wipe on wipe off method is for oil. Poly is a film finish and shouldn’t be applied that way. Follow the instructions on the can, and keep the coats relatively light.
Brad Angove thank you that makes mire sense
That is basically what happened to me. I sprayed 2 light coats and then, after 10 minutes, a very thick third coat. Three days later, it still looks tacky at the touch, and I really hope it to dry properly. It seems to be drying, sooner or later, but I can't tell it. Anyways, if it won't dry in a week, I'm planning to remove some material with a relatively fine grit like 320 or so. Fortunately, the conditions are perfect. Warm and dry.
Hello is your coats dried ? İ sanded one of my figure and ı sprayed all of the parts so carefully but after 4 days that was still sticky
@@Kiryulookingatsky yes It did. I had to wait a couple more days, and then I sprayed the clear coat. It dried in less than 24 hours to the touch, but I decided to wait 7 days, just to be sure. I sanded out up to 2000, compound, polish and wax. Now, I'm givin'it another week of time, even if it's apparently ok. It is very hot here, and I didn't expect such a long drying time, but here I am. Better to wait than to regret.
@XPhantomLord oh that’s good to hear thank you so much for the reply :D
Hey brad, im painting on metal, tremclad aluminum, it doesnt really want to drive despite only putting on the last coat thicker, it still rubs off on my hand slightly.. Just wondering would a heat gun help the curing process? Whats your typical curing time with tremclad ? Some people complain it takes much too long to dry properly.
I’ve had some issues with it before. Sometimes it takes weeks. Some people have had issues with it never quite hardening. If it’s been on there for more than a few days you could try a heat gun. Just don’t get too close or you will melt the paint instead of baking it.
Where can I buy some patience? That’s my problem when painting.
I’ll let you know if I find some. My searches keep coming up empty...
impatience is the problem. there are reasons why some people build projects and a house out of wood and i do not . the same thing with painting objects such as models and guitars and cars.. not being mean but some people get it and some do not. trust me i dont seem to get better at certain things more than i like to admit. I am 63 years old and have never had duplicolor paints not dry. not trying to be an a hole but....
Thanks so much for your videos! You’ve been my only guide pretty much as I finish my first guitar. So the fingernail test… should my nail leave no imprint at all on a spraymax 2k clear coat before moving to sanding and polishing? Should I start in a few days anyway?
It shouldn’t really leave any marks after about 24 hours. I would start sanding and polishing after 24-48 hours if possible.
you could always heat up the paint can and object being painted with a heat gun. The paint can will work better, and the paint will dry a little faster when the object being painted is warm
It can, but that can also cause cracking in the paint when it cools down and shrinks.
Yeah I fucked up a Ibanez destroyer one time, I was to excited to get finished and I think I rushed the clear, it took like 3 weeks to dry and become solid, I ended up selling it later after a while lol, now I know what probably happened! Won't do that again!
Well at least now I guess you won’t have that problem again haha.
@@BradAngove yeah exactly man, I'm better at playing them than painting them lol!, check out my channel sometime you might like some tunes on there.🤘
Hey, Brad! I spray paint a lot of 3D prints that I then have to mail. I put bubblewrap around these painted prints and everything does just fine EXCEPT for Rustoleum's bright copper spray paint with the metallic finish. What ends up happening is during shipping the bubble wraps presses into the paint, thus failing the fingernail test. None of my other metallic paints give me this issue. Should I be waiting days in between spraying coats?
I’ve always had difficulty with the durability of those reflective finishes. I think applying it in very light coats might help.
It's been about 30days before I painted & cleared my braket. It's dry to the touch but will still leave a mark with a fingernail. Why could this be?
What kind of paint?
@@BradAngove Hammerite
Odd; that stuff usually dries pretty hard. Was it cold when you applied it?
@@BradAngove yea was pretty cold. Can’t really control temp heated up the can in hot water. Part itself was cold
That might be the issue. The paint against the part may not have set correctly because of the cold but the top skinned over due to air exposure.
But what do you do about paint that doesn’t dry, that’s why I’m watching this vid, how you you get it off😢
I would either scrape it or use paint stripper.
Here I am watching painting tutorial. Last time I used this knowledge for impregnating my rain coat. Human watching habits will remain a mystery :v
Nonetheless thanks that you are sharing this knowledge. I hope that someday I'll have a chance to paint a guitar and it will be good
Thanks for watching. I hope your prospective paint job goes well.
We just painted our hallway floor and steps. We first used a kilz and then we did our semi gloss. The floor is very tacky. Help! Thanks
Did you spray it?
You have probably covered this at some point, but what is the best way to hold/hang a set neck guitar while finishing? I’ve heard an eyelet in the body where the strap button will eventually be, which seems like it would work. Others have said a wire through the tuner holes, which doesn’t seem like it would work well. Also, I live in an area that always has some level of humidity. I’ve heard that you don’t want to paint (lacquer) when it is 70% or more. Is there an ideal humidity?
Either of those options work. I prefer the hook screwed into the bottom strap button hole, but I’ve hung them from the tuning leg holes before. You just need something stiff so it doesn’t contact the headstock too much.
Less humidity is better for lacquer. When you get into the higher humidity ranges you can add a bit of retarder to help avoid blushing.
I paint wood desk and I wait it for 36hours it look dry but he is not even Ihe look dry but I have a problem of packaging it he leave some traces of plastic packing
What kind of paint?
Have you had any problems mixing your enamel paint with a non enamel paint? I’ve heard stories & I’m hoping they’re not true. Thank you so much 😊
Yes, enamel doesn’t play well with other paints usually.
In your face Toast!!!🤣🤣
Have you ever used preval spray? I want to mix polyurethane with a color to get a hue effect and spray it but I'm not sure if it's better to wipe it on instead
I haven't used one, but I have heard the work relatively well.
Hey Brad, once again great info and advice for us amateurs. I live in the dry desert and oddly getting blushing after applying thin coats of sanding sealer. I stained the body with trans tint mixed with denatured alcohol. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Maybe my coats aren’t as light as I thought?
That could be part of the issue. Are you using spray cans or a gun?
YOU did not mention ROLL ON Acrylic Rustoleum paint that was not MIXED properly.... thus leaving sticky.... HOW TO FIX THAT???
The same concepts apply. Mixing it should have minimal impact on drying with an acrylic like that.
So let’s just say “someone” new to guitar finishing used rust oleum acrylic and created a pretty fantastic paint scheme/job, but committed just about all of these errors along the way. He’s having a little problem with the dry top, and mushy underneath…I’d there any way that this guy can save this project?
The only option that comes to mind, and it’s far from a guarantee (probably less than 50% chance of working) is essentially baking it. Put it somewhere really warm and dry, but not in direct sunlight, for a couple days and see if that hardens it.
@@BradAngove thanks for the reply. It’s actually improved a bit in the past couple days. This has been a crazy experience so far. Didn’t know much about paints and finishing before this-not much at all really. Just about every decision so far has been the wrong one….there’s quite a bit to take into consideration. At least I have a base of knowledge going forward. Thanks again
My clear coat is still soft after 2 months, I wonder why, even I do flash off between coat according to instructions of clear coat, but it's still soft😢, please help me, thanks in advance, and sorry for my English.
I’m trying to spray paint a controller and I think I applied the bottom coat too heavy like you said. How do I fix that because you said not to sand wet paint?
Wait for it to dry and then sand it.
Hy i have a problem.. i painted plastic many times with chrome effect spray, the result is amazing its mirror effect...BUT..... after 24h if i take the piece my finger prints stay on... i tried with plastic primer before the chrome effect and without, and with plastic primer then grey coat and after it dryes then with chrome effect spray, and NO MATTER WHAT my finger prints stays on that stuf...its like it never dries full....PLEASE HELP ME !!!
Usually that is either because you applied the paint too heavy, it is too cold, or it is too humid.
So I spray painted a plastic bumper. Sanded, adhesion promoter, filler primer, sanded and painted. The guy at the auto store I bought the spray paint from said the paint has clear coat in it so there was no need to spray a clear coat on it. I painted the bumper and faced it on it's face to screw on some parts and some paint was left on the cloth it was laying on. Obviously it is not fully dry. Should I spray some clear coat on it? If so, do I have to wait until it's fully dry to spray the clear coat or can I do it now?
What kind of paint did you use?
I'm wanting to paint fishing lures with acrylic paint. I'm putting the paint on very thin without thinning the paint but it still pulls together and leaves bare patches! I've cleaned the aluminium foil beforehand with 99.9% isopropanol alcohol and allowed to dry. Any advice would be gratefully received. Merry Christmas and a Happy & Healthy New Year.
Have you abraded it?
I guess I better just strip the paint and start over again.. What do you think?
That usually seems to be the answer.
Hey Brad,
Thanks for another awesome video.
My question is.... what is the fix if we have already sprayed too thick...etc? and we have a situation where our paint ( in my case 2k clear) is still soft underneath? do we sand back and start again?
You can try putting it somewhere very warm for a few days, but if that doesn’t work then yes you would sand back.
@@BradAngove legend 👍👍👍
I find acrylic is a absolute pain to dry and for me the conditions have to be perfect and its just not cost effective if painting a guitar. That's why I paint 90% of the time in nitro or polly. And I like the feel of nitro over the plastic feel of polly. But lots of people watch a few videos and think they can get factory results withcar paints froma can but that doesn't happen very often. How's the build going?
Ya, acrylics can be very easy to use in some conditions, and very finicky in others.
The build is coming along nicely. I’m waiting on a few parts before I can continue, which isn’t great because I’m running out of time, but it’ll be good.
@@BradAngove awesome dude can't wait to see it....
I’m hoping to post a solid update tomorrow, but my computer is broken so I need to try to get that fixed today in order for it to happen.
@@BradAngove not much going your way mate! I'm sure it will all come good in the end..
One can hope haha.
How you fix the problem
Hi. Thank you for this video.
Question.
If the too thick too fast is the problem and is dry on the surface but if i press to hard in it i can see my finger print or nail mark will eventually dry? Or is it a done deal?
How can i help this issue? Should i let it site for more time? Weeks or month.
Is a table i painted. Been 2 weeks now. And i painted it in my garage. One day weather was hot next cold. Hot as 85 then cold as 65. Virginia weather sucks.
I’ve heard of people fixing that carefully with a heat gun, but I have generally found that the paint needs to be sanded off.
Rust-Oleum 2k purple? One light dust. 20 min........second coat thin but even nice coverage.
25 min then touched to sticky tack but no gloppy or stringing out.
Final thin coat approx 4" more distance.
No clear.
Temp in Ohio was at 87 mid humidity.
Day 3 as of now still having light nail indentation.
Will sanding back with my 800 help de-gas. Or should I give it a few weeks to cure then sand for my final+clear together within flashing spec? Opinions*
Applying to 1959 Schwinn Corvette trike. Original Chicago made steel covered in black high build sandable primer. (Brand not remembered but from AutoZone.
I also wondered if it may be reaction to primer or how long that can was on the shelf
Rustoleum doesn’t have a 2K as far as I know. Their painters touch stuff can easily take a few weeks to dry fully and pass the fingernail test.
@@BradAngove yes, it's 2k ultra cover purple. Paint + prime gloss.
2x you mean?
@@BradAngove yes, sorry for that.
No worries. That stuff doesn’t have a catalyst like an actual 2K would. Depending on how heavy it’s on there it can take a few weeks to dry. Sanding might help a bit, but if it’s soft you could end up with a mess and your paper will gum up immediately.
Believe it or not but latex gloves can hinder drying time with polyurethane based paints.
Are there any sort of dehydration drying chamber we can put the painted objects in that's not a heated chamber? I have 3D printed props that can't take any heat.
You can use an air conditioner to remove humidity. Or a dehumidifier.
Thank you so much for your information. I used a oil paint on a dresser . I did exactly what you said , I applied and I didn't wait long enough to apply the next coat . Its been a little over a week an half and its still sticky to touch . What can I do about this stickyness so I can finally get it out of the garage and in my house. Please help ! Thank you!
What kind of oil paint was it? Artist style oil paint? That stuff actually always takes a long time to dry.
@@BradAngove varathane wood stain. Today I decided to prime it and chalk paint it tomorrow. Im so done with this piece!!! Lol. My email is IrisSadowski@yahoo.com. i will send you pictures. . Thank you so very much for replying to me!! 😊😊😊😊☺