Speeding Up The Drying Time-Oil Based Finish
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2017
- A friend of mine asked if it was possible to speed up the drying time on an oil based finish. Today I did an experiment to find out if it was possible and if it would be worth the effort.
==================================================
If you like this content, please feel free to share it with others. Also click on the subscribe button before leaving. That way you’ll be notified when I have new content to share. Thanks for watching and have a great day!
=================================================
DISCLAIMER
READ THIS: All of the videos on this channel are intended for entertainment purposes only. Woodworking and the use of power tools can be extremely dangerous. You should only attempt to do what YOU feel comfortable and safe doing. What I do and how I do it works for me. However, I do NOT suggest or imply that you should do anything the way that I do. Always seek professional advice if you are unsure of the safe way to proceed and please, read your tools owner’s manuals completely and make sure you understand them completely before you use ANY power tool. Your shop safety is YOUR responsibility, so therefore I accept NO responsibility or liability for any injuries or accidents you may have if you attempt to do the things that I do.
Please stay safe, work smart and only attempt to do the things that YOU feel safe doing.
Thank You.
==================================================
If you have questions or would like to get in touch with me for any reason, then I encourage you to message me via my Facebook page (link below).
Facebook : / makethefirstcut
You can also find me on:
Google+ : plus.google.com/u/0/109459687...
Email: MakeTheFirstCut@gmail.com
___________________________________________________
Video Music & sfx: (All music and sfx are taken from the TH-cam audio library)
“Run” by Ethan Meixsell - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![คุณอาเรียโต๊ะข้างๆ พูดรัสเซียหวานใส่ซะหัวใจจะวาย ตอนที่ 4 [ซับไทย] 【Ani-One Thailand】](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_vK_cden2f8/mqdefault.jpg)
You really should be on radio. Your voice is amazing!
Chris Cute Lol,your personality is great.
From a testing standpoint, you should have also done a "control" for each of the products (i.e. paint a board with each, but without thinning them with mineral spirits.
Thanks Chris, I love these kinds of experiments!
I am a professional painter, Japan Dryer helps a lot but I also like using a little xylene. These make it so u don't have to thin much and still get the durability. A thinned out coat as your first coat is defiantly the way to go as this will seal the wood.
Great information Chris, thumbs up
G'day Chris, it's an interesting experiment to view, I've seen a couple now & Minwax never seems to punch above its weight as it's suppose to, really glad I've got a gallon of it in the shed 🤔👍
great video Chris thanks for the tips.
Great video, Chris! I enjoyed it!
Great video and great hat...living in Florida but Boston is my home
Thanks Chris. I use oil based Minwax urethane all the time and shorter drying times that you have shown. I think you were correct on the Minwax poly already having some thinner included for the faster drying time. Because of this I use less thinner in it. I'd like to see your experiment again with different ratios to see what your results are.
Wow , this video is well explained , thanks for the video
Interesting. Thanks I needed the info.
Use pre-cat lacquer if you're after speed. 10 min between coats, can pack or deliver the furniture in a couple hours. Most commercial furniture is finished in pre-cat. After it's fully cured it's pretty durable and resistant to solvents
Interesting experiment, better than guessing the outcome. I wonder how heat would effect the drying time. I know production companies use products that heat cure to speed the drying time but I wonder if it would help with standard off the shelf products?
Great video thank you for sharing your experiment.
Cheers
Bob
Your speaking voice is tremendous. Thank you for this video.
Thank you!
Good video buddy thanks for sharing mate ! 😜😜👍🏽
Thanks Chis interesting stuff
Yeah you can't really speed up the "drying" time of oil paint. Oil based paint doesn't "dry" but it "cures". It's dry (to the touch) when the solvent evaporates, but what you're left with is acutally uncured paint. It's a chemical process where polymer chains are created. You can use spirits a couple of hours later to wipe the piece and most paint will come off, but if you use it a week later, mineral spirits won't do anything to it. Basically oil based paint is done when it doesn't smell anymore. Cars are painted with different formulations where the paint actually dries. The solvent isn't spirits, but paint thinner with other kinds of solvents such as acetone, which evaporate much faster than spirits and the paint is dry and ready to sand in 30 minutes, and completely dry by next day. Moving air and heat can help accelerate drying of oil paint, but only if it's too cold for the paint to cure naturally.
Thanks for sharing Regards BobLee
Good Experiment. The one thing you could suggest to your friend is to have him give the option of oil or water base finish to his customers. Let the customer know that an oil based finish cost more money and let them choose which they prefer. If the customer prefers the oil based then at least his extra cost will be covered. If he is building items for craft shows and stuff where he is making batch runs then its like you said. Stick with the water base.
is this the “Home Show”? Great job!
Nice. Ican use that. What about putting it close to a heat source or a hairdryer. Wouldnt warm air speed it up?
Artists who use oil paints add a few drops of cobalt siccative to decrease drying / curing time of oils. Also, people should be aware that 'dry to the touch' is different than 'cured'. I have also seen people make a box with reflective materials and a UV light above to dry/cure as fast as four hours.
On Canadian woodworking's website they said naphtha|camping fuel increases the drying time and that mineral spirits just thins it.
great job
Well done... enjoyed this
Thats how we learn.. it was interesting, had never tried that.. I learned something
Hey Chris, Chris as well, guitar luthier, nice to meet ya!
Nice test. I've found that over thinning tends to break the finish quality somewhat, in that it is not as durable over time.
if you spray it neat will dry faster and you can put more coats on i do 3 coats in 1 hour and finish is good
perfect thank you
Thanks.
This was extremely interesting ✨🙏🏽
I'm glad to hear that. Thanks!
Thinned finish will require more coats to achieve a good build making the time about the same as straight out of the can.
There is a difference between drying and curing. I'm not sure if all water base is like latex but latex drys in a few minutes but is not fully hard for 30 days. Oil base takes hours or even a day to dry but it is fully cured in seven days. I'm not sure I would send stuff out that was dry but still soft.
Interesting video
I find, just dipping the end of the brush in white spirit every few brush strokes before reapplying the oil based coat, severely reduces the drying time without affecting coverage of said oil-based paint. Just remember to keep dipping and keep flicking the excess off before recovering your brush. 👍
Might even try using NAPTHA instead of mineral spirits since i dries even faster.
That was so enjoyable. I'm trying to paint a kitchen table. Is the poly acrylic better than the polyurethane? It's going to be used for a family of three. And what about the fumes? Can you show ways that someone can polyurethane a table in a little two room apartment and how they can survive the fumes using a water based polyurethane? That would be a great help. Years ago Lowe's had a odor remover that was a green liquid, and you would put drops on either side of the door frames and it really got rid of the paint smells immediately. I can't find that anymore. So if you can suggest something that would be wonderful. Thank you again for your video it was very well done!
I wish I could help you, but that's not an area I think I could do you much good. My only advice would be to use a water based poly. The fumes are far less than an oil based poly and the should disperse pretty quickly. Good luck!
the poly took longer because if it is already deluded and you did 50/50 mix then there is alot of water to be evaporated and not allowing poly to crystallize.
Try spraying magnalac good stuff imo. Great vid
Use japan drier
Naptha is what is used to speed evaporation time. "Cure" time is not affected, and my be several weeks or more.
What about heat such as a blow dryer?
It would be nice if there was a way to speed up drying times without using solvents which increase costs and reduce the amount of build you get per coat.
I stained my cabinets while living in my home yesterday big mistake. It’s been 24 hours and smell is still lingering I only did one coat minwax oil based stain, how long will this last?
24-36 hours. Once it's dry apply your finish and that should mask the smell.
your friend could just use shellac. dries fast, looks shiny,and dont have to thin it with anything. ive come to like shellac. ive thinned out arm r seal b4 and it took me 7 coats to get a sheen .never tried wth poly though good to know which is the better of the two
From my own experience, even though shellac can look just as nice or nicer, but with high use items (like coffee tables, dining tables, chairs, bedroom furniture, etc.) shellac is not as durable. Light use decorative items shellac is a great way to go. Just throwing that out there and it's from my own experience, so take it how you want. :)
Chris Cute ahh i see what u mean. good pt
KSFWG suppose it depends on the ratio of the mix?? im no finishing expert i just know it dries fast and u can mix it to ur liking.
.(learned that @ university of youtube ) haha!
Chris Cute ive had luck with a good dry time and durability with spar urethane too but for the sick of experimenting I like your ideas going to have to give that a try you can make a quart turn to a gallon with your method I like that
If u need quick, nothing beats lacquer imo
Did you ever work in radio? You have that radio voice.
I used a spray on poly for a final finish and 18 hours later it’s still sticky. Heat and humidity may play a factor to this but never had this much problem before.
How well did you shake the can before applying it?
So you made whip on poly. They sell that, but it cheaper to make it like you did
HI would an uncured oil based varnish layer cure beneath layers of oil based polyurethane?
If it is truly a "varnish" then it has curing capabilities in it. You would need to apply it, then let it cure before going over the top of it.
Hey, thanks for that. It’s actually gold size, an oil based varnish/glue (soluble in white spirit) used for sticking on gold. No time for curing with this project, and I understand that anything soluble in white spirit, will allow the curing to take place beneath. I have a ‘varnish’ Polyurethane, but soluble in White Spirit. Wondering whether this will work.
@@edwardmirza Yes, it will work, but you'll need to let it dry before applying additional coats on top of it.
Japan Dryer is the answer. You don't need allot and works fast.
When I was in woodshop class in high school my teacher had something that would dry like in 10 to 15 minutes. We used a gun to spray it and 15 minutes later we would sand it and spray it again. I wish I knew what it was and what did he mix it with.
Sounds like nitrocellulose lacquer.
What about trying “Japan Drier” ?
I am making mini human
After paint I need to clear coat varnish on it
I want to speed up to drying process
I would think that if you are so busy you are trying to cut corners on drying times perhaps it's time to raise your prices
Ele é tao espontaneo
Siiim
I was led to believe Arm R Seal contains a lot of solvents?
I went by what was written on the back of the can.
Who else is sitting here watching this vid while waiting for their project to dry?
Xylene or laquer thinner
Idk how speeding up dry time while requiring more coats helps?
It doesn't. That was the final point of the video.
Chris Cute o sorry I had to run pick up my kids didn’t get to finish the video! Just label me that comment troll ;). Thank you for the video
i just stained my floors 3 days ago. stain still wet. How can I get it to dry completely other than just waiting? Yes ,i did wipe up the excess oil as i applied it.
Sanded to the white meat. it is stained and it has been extremely humid here. I thought the heat would help dry but now i know better. Thanks
Just fyi- the dry time difference is because of the high level of solids (resins) in the GF’s product compared to minwax...plus the binders used are higher quality & not made of MS base.
When money matters to you more than quality, then use fast drying water based finishes.
Exactly
So a heat gun isn’t an option?
On a finish? LOL no.
3 part poly 1 part mineral spirits. 1-1 is way to much mineral spirits
Hard to fathom someone in the furniture business doesn't use lacquer from companies like General Finishes or Mohawk. Lacquer is superior to oil when it comes to furniture, dries in minutes, and wears like steel.
I guess you'd have to "fathom" what the business is making to understand.
@@chriscute7528 So tell me
@@VegasDave53 Here ya go, ask him yourself then you two can leave me out of it. th-cam.com/users/JaesWorld360
Looks like confusion between absorbing into the wood vs drying.
You aren't making the drying time any quicker.. you're just reducing the "solids" content by reducing it, which decreases the flash time. You would get the same time by halving the amount you apply (thinner coat). The curing time will be exactly the same if you end up with the same product build up.
The polyurethane isn't drying as quick because you need to use a polyurethane reducer if you're going to thin the stuff. They don't work the same as acrylic oil based products.
You get a similar situation when using high solids (HS) vs medium solids (MS) 2K systems. The HS products simply have smaller/finer particles so that less solvent is needed in the product to get the product to flow for spraying. an MS product will flash off quicker than HS because it has more solvent and you're effectively applying less product for each coat. This means an HS product can provide full coverage with a mist coat + a wet coat. The MS product will need a mist coat + at least 2 full wet coats.
LOL Thanks, but if you watch the entire video you'll see that I come to that exact conclusion.
Go yankees
Dries twice as fast and only half as durable!!!