I should add that fender started with Nitrocellulose, but a lot of their colour options were acrylic lacquers coated with clear nitro (this happened in the late 50's early 60's)! Fender used to skirt around with how little paint they can get away with, so some colours (notably olympic white) would yellow if they were clear coated with nitro, or remain bright white if they weren't clear coated.
One thing I have found through trial and error is that when using those "heavy coat" spray cans you can very easily get an orange peel effect so watch for that and prepare to sand it flat! I did one recently that had a little orange peel that I somehow did not notice until I began applying the clear coat. Well, I figured I would be able to get a smooth finish using the clear to fill in the dimples, lol nope. Also, if you are using metallic paint that is silver, bronze or gold, be careful and make sure it is fully dry before you put the clear coat on, otherwise it will start causing the clear coat to crack or split apart. Another tip for using spray cans, make sure you shake that can really well and even during the application of it shake the can and turn it upside down a few times. Never buy your paint and/or supplies from a discount place that sells stuff really cheap unless you know for certain the condition of the paint before it got to that type of a store. These types of stores often times are buying entire lots from stores that went out of business or insurance claim lots from places that may burned down or somehow got destroyed. What I have discovered is that a lot of the paint from those places had gotten frozen somehow and well once it has been froze the paint is really not good any longer.
Thanks for another great guitar finish video. I went nuts trying to figure which type to use. I recently did my guitar using Kustom canz from custom paints. Friendly to use, awesome color selection, 2k gloss. I did spray cans and never thought I could such results. Check them out and maybe do a video using one of the chameleon or exotic finishes.
I'm looking forward to seeing your video using the Crystalac products. I'm "down" for the winter because I don't have a heated workshop, but in the spring I hope to be finishing a guitar and I was leaning toward Crystalac, because of some videos I watched (primarily from Highline Guitars). So, a little more time spent watching someone I trust and admire using them might give the courage I need to finally decide.
Late to respond to this particular video, but you schooled me a couple years ago and I have learned all about high humidity and it's impact on certain clear coats in South Florida. As always, thanks Brad. I also learned about getting tickets to the gun show, but that is another lesson altogether.
I like that you are remaking it wearing a shirt that looks very similar to the original. New Old Stock. BTW thanks for all of your videos... I'm just getting into this stuff myself and your channel has definitely given me a lot of good info and inspiration!
Hey Brad, I know this is an older video and like most of your content it’s great man. I believe Stew Mac uses Mohawk as well but just relabels it, great stuff although lately I’m using Oxford much more 🤙 Thanks for all you do man!
You guys in North America have so many products to choose from. In Australia we have a fraction of these options, especially in, small DIY quantities. Also, things like danish oil, wipe-on poly, even rattle cans are expensive here. A rustoleum 2X is $13. I'm also interested in emerging tech like UV cure finishes and low-temp powder coat for timber.
Very informative as always Brad and I'm working on my workshop mini spray booth this weekend ( for mini guns and air brushing) just to get better and a more wider range of finishes to bodysuit ( I'm a huge fan of dyes/stains and oil finishes) as I just love the look of the wood grain. Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks Jeff. I've just been doing painting/manufacturing for a long time, and have done a lot of research. Along with a couple classes and a little bit of time working in an autobody shop.
Thanks for the update Brad. I used a 2 part clear over my sparkle purple Jem style. It was expensive stuff, and I mixd it, but it said "acrylic" on the can, which was odd, but the paint supplier told me it was a 2K Poly. So I don't know what it was. But it took bloody weeks to dry hard enough to polish! Polished up good though. The previous guitar I cleared was from a can, a single pack type thing that took months to harden, and then didn't really harden and is still a bit...stick your nail into the finish and it'll dent. I want to encase my sparkly 80's neon crazyness in a clear diamond so they stay unbattered and unfaded. What do you recommend for that for my next, neon yellow project? And as others have pointed out, your shoulders, chest, traps and arms are looking like they did when you did the ice bucket challenge. Well done, sir! When the ground defrosts enough to get back into the rugby playing, you'll kill 'em!
Haha thanks Arry. The 2K is supposed to be catalyzed to dry cure quickly. Having that in a slow drying acrylic is very odd. If you’re looking to go the spray can route, consider using the spraymax 2K. I demonstrated it in my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
@@BradAngove Cheers Brad. I actually have a compressor with a gun with 1.4, 1.8 and 2 gauge nozzles, the 2 I use for the glitter, the 1.4 I use for the clear. Just seemed odd it took so long to harden. Weird.
Hey Bud! Ive been watching everything, just not commenting. On this one you seem to be covering just about every finish imaginable. Even shellac. Dont hate me...but I think that Tru Oil and Varnish deserve a mention. Eastman is making Les Paul styles with an "Antique Varnish" finish, and everybody loves them so far. Tru oil is probably one of the easiest finishes to apply. Its easy to repair and buff out and if youre doing something like applying a decal and finishing a head stock it's super easy to get a good result. Last... Ive been working on that Tele. I used Tung oil on the mahogany neck and it came out great. I sanded to 200 (yes 200) then a coat of Tung. I kept doing that sanding lighter each time. Result was a smooth non stick satin feel. Love it. Thanks for your work. Youve taught me a lot!
Tru-oil is definitely a good option. Very similar to the crimson finishing oil. And yes, I probably should have thrown some varnish in there somewhere haha.
I did a burst guitar paint job on a Precision Kit with House of Kolors with a polyester primer underneath. The finish is beautiful, extremely hard and durable. Like you said, not the easiest to work with but great results. This guitar will probably never relic.
As usual man, thanks for all your videos, they provide tons of options for all of us who won't have access to spray guns! I would be awesome if you could make a video using Krylon Colormax, I've done some basses using it, and it works just fine, but perhaps watching you do it, I could have a better idea if I'm messing up at any point.
Gonna step up to a decent spray rig soon, where should I look for poly? Local autobody shops? I don't think there was anything listed through the Amazon link. Also, can poly's be tinted? Sorry if you've gone over this, but I only hear people talking about tinting lacquers. @12:09 you talk about the House of Kolor stuff and say "you can use it over a urethane." I'm not exactly sure what's being said. Thanks again for all the great content you put out Brad. Always looking forward to see what you're up to!
Really liking your videos! Working on a new piece of wood, what type of sealer/prep would you recommend before painting with an automotive acrylic urethane base with topcoat?
I can't believe it I thought that's one of my friends wow he is doing a vedio you look almost like him he plays in a band and does wood work ,carpentry,all that stuff I wish I would of learned to expensive to have it done by someone else any who great info thanks for sharing your knowledge..Roland J Gutierrez from Magdalena New Mexico USA..
Brad, great channel and awesome videos. So informative. I am looking for advise. I picked up a Solo Guitar Tele kit and want to paint it. I am handy/crafty but have not done something like this before. I have easy access to Rustoleum and Dupli-color products. Do you have a suggestion for a first timer? Thanks!
I'll start out by saying that I am not a luthier but I did make an electric guitar from an old acoustic guitar neck (if I was doing it again I'd order an electric neck on eBay but this was about 25 years ago) and a piece of walnut 2" x 4". I applied a clear urethane finish with a brush and since I didn't have a good place to work it ended up with a lot of dust nibs. It works OK and it was a fun project but it will never be a good instrument. FF to 2014 and the pickup died so I decided it was time to make some other improvements while I had it apart and while I was at it I decided it was time to fix the finish. Among my other hobbies, I am also a model railroader and I read about using a product called Pledge with Future (now called Pledge Floor Gloss) as an inexpensive clear coat. It is sold where you buy floor wax but it is actually an acrylic finish that can be brushed or sprayed, dries fairly quickly, levels well and produces a perfect high gloss finish with very little effort. I went over the guitar with steel wool to remove the nibs, then wiping it down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove any finger oil and dust, then hung the guitar and applied a coat of Pledge with a foam brush. I probably could have recoated it in an hour but I let it dry for a day, steel wooled any rough areas, wiped it again and gave it a second coat. That's all. No waxing, no buffing, nothing. It hasn't had a lot of use but 5 years later I haven't done anything except dust it occasionally and it still looks like someone spent a lot of time working on making it smooth & shiny.
@@BradAngove I should mention that the Pledge does not have enough body for finishing bare wood (maybe if you applied 20 coats it might fill the pores) but I have used it as a finish coat over Varathane on furniture with similar results. Oddly, I haven't used ot on any models yet...
@@SidecarBob Nice Bob, I build guitars as well as model cars and Future is awesome! I use it all the time on my models, But like you accept opposite, I've oddly enough never used it on a guitar project... It's good to know you have and had good results! I love it because it's not toxic and you can add color to it and it works like a dye.
Hey Brad, as always, I love what you're doing here. Your videos are a big help and fun to watch too. I don't have any painting equipment, but I love the acrylic satin finish on my Skervesen. Is there a way to do such a finish without an airbrush? What kind of clear coat would you use on that to get that satin feel?
@@BradAngove 😂 If one doesn't then that's great. You said you use it for airbrush jobs. Can you apply it like a stain? Have you done a video like that?
I’m just not sure if you’re talking about using an airbrush for color work or for clear. You wouldn’t use it for clear. You can use a satin wipe on poly. That’s probably the easiest option.
@@BradAngove Yes, I've watched that video you did. I appreciate you taking the time to strain to understand my question. Sorry, I figured it wasn't necessary to provide more background but it seems I should. I have a guitar like this one skervesen.eu/product/shoggie-dc-8-bolt-on/ and it'd be cool to build another guitar with a similar finish, but that is where my biggest knowledge deficit is. The top is painted or stained, not sure which, and I assume the rest is a clear coat acrylic satin. Could that be correct? The maple top feels smooth, but you can lightly feel the texture of the mahogany on the back.
Can you please do a video on water base finishes? I use Varathane gloss floor finish from home depot. Very durable and hard finish. I was recommended this product by a man who has been in the wood floor insallation business for 50 years. thats all he uses. you can also buy 2 part catalyzed professional grade floor finish which is also super durable, but not from home depot. but i find that the gloss varathane is extremely durable and very hard enough finish. Plus it has aluminum oxide in it which makes your finish harder. It sands beautiful and polishes to a high gloss finish. Can finish about 4-5 guitars with one gallon.
@@BradAngove The video would not be for me. I was thinking about your veiwing audience who might not have considered water base finish. Someone who might want an alternative to a hazardous product with high VOC's or solvent cleanup, while still achieving a high gloss (or whatever sheen they choose), super durable, easy clean up, sands easy, can be sprayed or brushed on, dries quick for multiple coats (I spray 1 coat every 10 minutes in the right tempurature. approx. 10 coats) and a little something for the "enviromentalists".....super low VOC's, and very easy to use. And it's an excellent guitar finish which would fit in with the context of your channel. Just thought it would make for a good video for everyone to see. just my 2 cents.
I haven’t. I would suggest that a mask is a good idea for almost all paints, with the exception of a few water based ones when they’re not being sprayed.
yeah, the tru-oil is a good option but I covered a variety of oils and the concept is similar. Particularly to the crimson oil. Super glue isn’t paint haha.
It’s usually safest to stick with the same paint type for that sort of thing, but I’ve also used catalyzed polyurethane over acrylic enamel and has consistent success with that.
Thanks for the video and all the info. I wish I had found your channel before I started my project!! I painted my guitar with Rustoleum spray paint. Now is ready for the clear coat, which I had bought Rustoleum as well. After watching your video, and wondering if I should use some other Clear coat that dried hard. Not sure if I can do this, or do I need to take off the paint and start over with Mohawk or something similar! Thanks again for great videos.
Have you tried any of the Colortone water based lacquer? I’m building my first Solo kit and was thinking of going this route because I could spray it in the house instead of outside waiting for Spring with nitro.
I haven’t tried that one specifically. I have used other water based lacquers though. I still don’t recommend spraying them in the house if it can be avoided.
Great content Brad, After watching your previous poly video, I used the wipe on poly on an oxidized ash wood bass, with great success. thanks. I still have plenty of wipe on ploy left and was considering using it on a Tele that I plan on painting flat/satin black. good idea or should I stick to a spray can clear coat? the poly is a satin finish too.
I used a Minwax product called Polycrylic which is a water based Polyurethane on a cart I made for a CNC router I built. Since its water based its low odor and dries pretty quick and sands nice. I am tempted to use it on a guitar. Can't say for sure since I have only used it on a cart but I think its worth a try.
Thanks for the pointer to Mohawk products. I want to take my guitar finishing to the next level, from spray cans to a spray & compressor system. I just had a question about modified Tung Oil, I have only used Japan Dryer and Boiled Linseed Oil on the neck then sand in the linseed oil with 5000 grit sand paper to get really smooth, fast neck. My question is, why do you prefer the modified Tung Oil?
Great video bro! Probably my favorite part of a build is paint work, The most satisfying I think it seems to bring my builds to life! Lol. I like using rattle cans if I can get away with it just because I frigging hate cleaning my airbrushes! Lol. I hate that little brass tip that the needle runs through... I've broke like 50 in the past 10 yrs. That's one of the reasons I like to use my Paasche-H. The needle/nozzle assembly is all in 1, I usually just drop the whole assembly in lacquer thinner for 10 minutes and she's ready to go! As far as kit guitars go, I was making a bass for my wife for Christmas but there's no way I was going to finish in time, so I wanted to order a quick kit. I wen't to Solo and checked out there bass kits, and the style she wanted were out of stock.... So I ended up buying a kit from Bargain Musician out of Cali. It looked like a great kit, All walnut body, 5 string finished neck decent pup's and matching walnut headstock with all black hardware... Just wondering if you ever bought a kit from them? If so are they any good? And it figures, just a day after I ordered it I got an email from Solo saying there back in stock! Just my luck, Lol. I just hope Bargain Musician is a decent company, (any info from you would be great) thanks for the informative painting video my friend............. Mike (Ipswich River Guitars).
If it's a decent kit I'll shoot a video of it when I'm done... I noticed Derick using leather dye for a really cool burst... You ever use it? It looks pretty nice because you can still see a nice grain through it, I was thinking some of that dye with a nice 2 part PPG clear over it for her bass, Looks like some nice grain on that walnut body... Any thoughts?
@@MikeCindyWhite I haven't used the angelus dyes personally, but I have heard nothing but positive comments. I'm pretty confident that you've got a good plan there.
Hi Brad, thank you for all of this wonderful information. I'm planning on refinishing 2 basses in different colors with a spray gun, I'm thinking nitro Mohawk but I'm confused as to what type of paint goes with lacquer or which sealer or clear coat to use, and mixing the base color with the lacquer?. This video you're explaining the paints but for a noob like me if would be helpful to know i.e acrylic paint and which sealer or clear coat...Same goes for lacquer AND/OR can the 2 part catalized poly be used with either types of paints. Luckily I have 2 other bodies to practice. can't wait to see you new video on the nitro green strat. keep up the good work, thanks!!
That’s a good video topic actually. I may do a live video discussing the topic. But in essence, nitro lacquer itself is clear and you can mix a pigment into it to create color, so all of the coats are the same compound.
@@BradAngove Thanks buddy, where can I buy the pigments to mix with the lacquer? I looked at ardec but didn't see the pigments, do you know where I can find them? a link perhaps? thank you
@@BradAngove yeah, I'm bad at mixing colors to get the result I want. So I went to CDN Tire to look at dupli-color colors and there are some interesting colors already in spray format but not in cans/quarts tho'. Would it be possible to decant the spray cans and use them with a spray gun? and what type of undercoat and clear coat should I use? Lacquer clear, poly clear or other? It's bare wood now (i think alder) it has a ding size of a loonie on the front carve and I tried to steam it out but not really working, so I may have to sand the area to make it more even otherwise I'll have to use a filler to build it up, I want to go solid color anyways maybe same tone burst, let me know what you think. thanks
Hi Brad, very interesting video as always, but I see that many of these finishes are not available through Amazon into Canada where I live, and where I thought you lived as well. Are there any other Canadian sources of these products? Thank you for your trouble
I’m not sure what their problem is at your location, but regardless, sologuitars is now working on an arrangement so you should be able to purchase Mohawk online through them soon if you can’t already. Are you talking about the 2K spray cans? They were cheaper at CMAX and at Canada Car Colour.
So when they suggest a recoat time on a spray can (or any paint), that's when the paint is at the point where the solvents have evaporated and the paint is still soft enough for the next coat to adhere properly? (flashed?) You explained flashing to me once before, but binging some of your older painting videos tonight made it click in my head.
Great information ; thank you ; I hope you can answer this : Can I use artist’s acrylic paint and LIQUITEX varnish on top, on the neck of a guitar ; I like to paint some scrolls detail on it .
@@BradAngove Awesome, thank you. It's a certain shade of white by a certain company. Not sure if it could be matched, so I thought I could use my leftover gallon.
Hi, I'm doing my first guitar kit. You're videos are super informative, but I'm feeling overwhelmed and confused with paint options. I have a mahogany body that I've grain filled, then applied 4 coats of mohawk vinyl sealer. I bought a can of krylon specialty laquer, but after reading negative reviews I havent used it. Then I bought a can of Rust-Oleum high performance enamel paint, because I thought you had used it in a video, but now Im seeing comments to stay away from enamel. I have minimal painting experience. What type of paint will be durable and work with the vinyl sealer that I have down?
@@BradAngove Thanks for responding, Brad! Well I'm not sure. The only mohawk laquer that comes up in my amazon searches has been clear so I figured I was looking at the wrong thing. I'm just looking for a simple gloss black. After the color, I assume I can finish with the spraymax or car rep 2k clear coat? Is there a difference in clear coat vs top coat?
I’m not sure what top coat is per se but I don’t think there’s a difference. If you’re just looking for black you can use rustoleum painters touch and clear coat that with the 2K, or you can try just the gloss black enamel and see if that looks how you want it to.
@@BradAngove I appreciate it! I've seen some videos where the wrong combination of products were used and the finish peeled off months later. Just trying to avoid that situation if I were to use the enamel I currently have. Thanks for your time!
When using rattle can spray paints I have the clip on trigger handle attachment that makes it feel more like an air gun sprayer and affords more control overall. saves your fingers from cramping too as well as no paint on your hands...
Hey dude! Great video, I just found your video cus I'm planning on painting the bevels of my guitar, it's color it's black glossy, solid wood, and I'm thinking on putting a green or brown color on the bevels, I think 2k or dupli color may work, what do you think? Should I use one of those? Or I may as well go with other one? (I've never have painted a guitar btw) Thanks in advance!
Pretty informative Brad. Just be careful if you use shellac as a base coat and try and put duplicolor over the top. Sometimes it doesn't stick as the topcoat will peel off when you attach the hardware. Not too sure if it just doesn't like to stick or you have to wait a while for it to completely dry before you put the duplicolor on.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad. Yeah not too sure what why but it happened on two guitars which sort of put me off using it. The first I added stain to colour it and I'm pretty sure I left it a few days to dry before top coating, but most of it peeled off. The second one I used as a base for a yellow tint (which looked good) but again wouldn't adhere under stress. Can't remember if I sanded before I applied duplicolor, it was a long time ago. I just chalked it down to they don't like each other didn't do it again!
Hey! does the mohawk Classic instrument lacquer need to be thinned to spray? also, i read a review that it is slightly amber, is that true? or is clear.
If you had a choice between the spraymax 2K and the Behlen/Mohawk Stringed instrument lacquer - would you have a preference. Ive tried the Crimson FInish oil, true oil and the wipe on polys With some success but i really want to try the Spray Can approach before i bite the bullet and go the HVLP approach. In terms of wipe on polys - i had the best success with the General FInishes Arm-A-Seal vs the Home Depot versions - it was far easier to use. But i am interested in your view of Spray max vs Behlen.
Hi Brad. I am nearly done with a bass build, my first from the ground up. Poplar body, maple neck. I'm pretty much done with everything except painting the body with a solid color as poplar does not stain well. I'm a new painter and I am looking for the most user-friendly newb painting and clear coating process. What should I go with? I just got a 27 gallon air compressor, but have not tried spraying with it yet.
Nitrocellulose lacquer is a fairly easy product to use, although it is quite toxic and takes a long time to dry. The best part about it for beginners though is that it’s way easier to repair than most other paints. I use the stuff from Oxford supply. The spray cans are good too if you have any trouble with the compressor setup.
At 10:00 you discuss about customization of nitro. What would I use to color it to a burnt metallic orange? Do I need to start from a white base color?
You don’t necessarily need start white. An orange base is probably easier to work with. You would then get an orange pigment (for opaque) or dye (for transparent) and a bit of mica powder and just mix them into the nitro.
You're recommending the 2K clear (catalyzed polyurethane) on top of Dupli Color which is acrylic lacquer, but I've been reading that they are not supposed to be compatible. After looking at this video, I thought of going this way, but could you give a bit more info why you are recommending this when it's "not supposed" to be compatible? I'm not at all judging your expertise, I'm more interested in understanding your recommandations. Thank you!
That’s totally fair. They’re not intended to go together per se, but acrylic lacquer isn’t very solvent-heavy so I find it more broadly compatible than people seem to think. I have personally done a few projects with 2K over duplicolor (one of which is in a 2 part series on my channel) and have found it to work quite well.
I looked at many of your videos actually, which I think are great. I might test on a temporary body your idea of acrylic lacquer with the car-rep 2k on top of it (being in Canada too, I couldn't use your amazon link since it's in the .com). Thank you for your time sir and for the great videos! I will continue to refer to them for reminding me of the steps :P
Hi Brad, I was doing a spaltted kit and was going for a rustic look but now decided to go with automotive paint paint. I stained the top and cleared it with Minwax 63010444 Fast Drying Polyurethane Clear Finish, can I clear the whole guitar with automotive clear? Or am I asking for trouble? Thanks man, great videos!
The Mohawk brand is not available on Amazon right now. I have looked a lot for it I guess its held up on the rebranding and restocking. Let us know whats up with that please..
@@BradAngove Some items are listed for sale but from 3rd party vendors at crazy prices. $34.00 for a spray can of sealer plus shipping. That makes StewMac look cheap. We know they aren't. If you have any contact at company you might want to contact them and let them know you are promoting a product that they can't sell the way its handled. Amazon has to stock and ship for it to be reasonable.
Hey Brad.. sorry I'm just now getting to this video (I've been in the hospital for a while). Anyway, I do have a question, which you may have covered in this video BUT, I was to busy wondering why on God's green earth you wear shirts 4 sizes to small for someone your size. My question is: how long would you recommend I let a duplicolor spray job cure before I wet sand and clear?
Thank you, I appreciate this list! I am curious what you think I should use if I want to paint like words on my guitar (a la Woody Guthrie or Tom Morello)? I'd prefer to use a brush rather than a spray can or gun because I feel I'm more accurate like that.
Hi..you inspired me to paint my strat.(bad idea on my part lol)...it's all painted with spray cans and buffed it but I can still see small scratches so want to lacquer on top....I've seen you video where u say lacquer eats into its self but does it eat into paint and how much should I sand before applying Thanks in advance
Lacquer won’t just melt into other paints generally, although it does depend somewhat on the type. I would generally advise sanding with some 600 grit before applying it.
@@BradAngove so you recommend adding clear nitro lacquer 30min-1hour after the Acrylic Metallic/Pearl finish has been sprayed? Or should I wait more time?
Hi Brad, interested to your video.. I need your opinion for a water-based paint related of resonance of wood/tone wood. What is effect to the tone wood compared with nitro, I mean..I saw a rest of water based dried paint such a plastic film, so I think can reduced the tone wood. Thankyou.
If you decide to use acrylic for your electric guitar can you mix the two like an oil base and a water base which is what I mean is can you do part of the guitar with water base and the other part of the guitar with
Do you have any additional tips for spraying matte clear? I bought some of that SprayMax matte clear. I plan on heating up the can, wetting the floor down and wearing a respirator. But as far as getting a smooth finish, do I have to worry about orange peel with matte? If so, I can't sand and buff.
You apply matte much the same way as any other clear. Unfortunately is can still be subject to some orange peel. I sometimes will build up a few coats of gloss, let it dry fully, sand flat, and then add a light coat of matte to finish off.
I have a Yamaha RBX375 Bass that I am going to refinish. Should I sand the original finish down to bare wood? Specifically if I go with a polyurethane paint? Wanting to do a mirrored deep purple finish and will most likely have to use the House of Colors paints. Great reshoot on this subject.
You may be able to get away with just roughing up the finish that is already on it. If you do decide that removing the finish is necessary, I wouldn't sand it off. Use a brush on lacquer/paint stripper. You'll run less risk of over sanding and damaging the body. I almost ruined the bevels on my B.C. Rich Beast because I decided to sand it off by hand.
Hey Brad, recently picked up an Allparts SRO-V Neck for a strat I'm going to put together. I am going to finish it with canned nitro lacquer but I was wondering if I should use a sealer underneath it and what you would recommend if yes. I should mention, I'm going for a vintage 60s strat feel and finish.
So am I correct that with painting a guitar I have to just get white and mix it myself? And how to I color the paint till the shade I want? Dyes or something like that. I wanna not use spray paint.
@@BradAngove I cant seem to find them in the colors I want. Like Black light paint. Or is it called uv paint. Either way I want it to react to a black light. Or like very bright neon colors.
Hey brad, I'm planning on painting a 3 burst tele with a sort of mango yellow colour, but I would like the original burst to slowly reveal itself overtime. Have you got any recommendations for paints that will naturally relic or will they all work?
I am making my first guitar and trying to figure out what finish the put on the neck. I am considering tung oil, but I have read that you have to reapply the oil every couple of months. Is this true? If it is, what are some of the other options that could give me similar finish to tung oil? Thanks!
The modified tung oil tends to last, but you can get a somewhat similar finish if you use my technique from my video on applying a poly finish on a neck.
Hi. I need some advice. I'm going to paint my guitar with acrylic base coat, and then spray Maston 2K clear. How long do I have to wait before I put 2K on acrylic base coat? Cheers!
saw DIY gene mix his own acrylics (custom color) and then use tru oil for gloss then buffed? any comment on either part of that approach. I haven't seen you mention tru oil.
@@BradAngove I am going to paint my first one here and I find you very knowledgeable. I am a little nervous about the clear coat part as I have a confined indoor space or have to go outdoors. The tru oil thing looks appealing as I could do in my small space. In you pro opinion do those finished that way look good. Assuming if you haven't done that maybe not the greatest on durability compared to other choices? Keep the videos coming they are great
@@BradAngove have also seen others do clear coat (cans) then minwax lacquer over clear coat. Do you typically ever do both or just one or the other? Let me know. Your videos are super helpful
@@BradAngove Thanks...I continued looking it up and found one site that says Polycrylic is a Minwax "Brand name" for polyurethane, not sure I'm going to trust that so I'm going a different way. Sometimes trying to save a penny just isn't worth it. Thank you and thanks for the response.
Hi brad, im gonna try to refinish my guitar. For some reason the paint is really thin and i keep on finding paint chips all over my guitar body. I think it has polyurethane on as base for it. Can you advise me what spray paint i can use to achieve a gloss black/white finish?
@@BradAngove yes… btw my guitar is an ibanez rgd7ucs-ish… the factory paint looks awesome but i have been really disappointed on how the paint holds up. This is the 1st time that i have chips from really light bumps on the guitar. Even on the output jacks. If i used an angled cable it would chip easily. I dont get why it’s even a prestige when the paint quality sucks. My ibanez gio had better paint than my prestige
Hmm thats an idea. I wish to use the 2 component urethane over a 1 stage acrylic candy paint? Would that hurt my acrylic enamel? I would mix it & try utilizing a prevail spray can system...may depend on the thinner.
@@BradAngove a moment for helping answer a dire question of mine? Recommendations if possible. My project is (outdoors): 👇 ▪︎What quick dry sealer would you recommend trying over a Rusto silver & metalic flakes, if i want to bury the flakes in clear & sanding on it on the next following day????? I will sand it with a heavy grit 220 if possible for my finishing clear... better than epoxy exterior clear coat, it is compatible with acylics. I have been trying to consider either a water-based type (sanding sealer??), or water version (precat lacquer/conversion varnish) type that i see used on guitars. I only have heard a lot about general finishes precat lacquer.
If you want to sand after 24 hours you will likely want to consider a catalyzed finish overtop. Normally I would sand with 600 or 800 grit before applying that final clear for the finish.
Painting clear nitro over an automotive basecoat, do you need to sand or prep the basecoat, i sprayed one up a week or so ago with basecoat and have now scraped all the edges clean ready to be clear coated but unsure how to proceed
I should add that fender started with Nitrocellulose, but a lot of their colour options were acrylic lacquers coated with clear nitro (this happened in the late 50's early 60's)! Fender used to skirt around with how little paint they can get away with, so some colours (notably olympic white) would yellow if they were clear coated with nitro, or remain bright white if they weren't clear coated.
Best you can afford that works, you did a great job the first time you made that video .
One thing I have found through trial and error is that when using those "heavy coat" spray cans you can very easily get an orange peel effect so watch for that and prepare to sand it flat! I did one recently that had a little orange peel that I somehow did not notice until I began applying the clear coat. Well, I figured I would be able to get a smooth finish using the clear to fill in the dimples, lol nope.
Also, if you are using metallic paint that is silver, bronze or gold, be careful and make sure it is fully dry before you put the clear coat on, otherwise it will start causing the clear coat to crack or split apart. Another tip for using spray cans, make sure you shake that can really well and even during the application of it shake the can and turn it upside down a few times.
Never buy your paint and/or supplies from a discount place that sells stuff really cheap unless you know for certain the condition of the paint before it got to that type of a store. These types of stores often times are buying entire lots from stores that went out of business or insurance claim lots from places that may burned down or somehow got destroyed. What I have discovered is that a lot of the paint from those places had gotten frozen somehow and well once it has been froze the paint is really not good any longer.
Thanks for another great guitar finish video. I went nuts trying to figure which type to use. I recently did my guitar using Kustom canz from custom paints. Friendly to use, awesome color selection, 2k gloss. I did spray cans and never thought I could such results. Check them out and maybe do a video using one of the chameleon or exotic finishes.
I'm looking forward to seeing your video using the Crystalac products. I'm "down" for the winter because I don't have a heated workshop, but in the spring I hope to be finishing a guitar and I was leaning toward Crystalac, because of some videos I watched (primarily from Highline Guitars). So, a little more time spent watching someone I trust and admire using them might give the courage I need to finally decide.
Well hopefully I can give a helpful demo with them. I’m excited for that project.
Late to respond to this particular video, but you schooled me a couple years ago and I have learned all about high humidity and it's impact on certain clear coats in South Florida. As always, thanks Brad. I also learned about getting tickets to the gun show, but that is another lesson altogether.
Hahaha nice. Tickets are free!
I like that you are remaking it wearing a shirt that looks very similar to the original. New Old Stock. BTW thanks for all of your videos... I'm just getting into this stuff myself and your channel has definitely given me a lot of good info and inspiration!
Thanks Jay
Hey Brad, I know this is an older video and like most of your content it’s great man. I believe Stew Mac uses Mohawk as well but just relabels it, great stuff although lately I’m using Oxford much more 🤙
Thanks for all you do man!
Thank you Tommy
I am having the exact problem you described with the towel and the spray cans haha
Damn. That is definitely a common one.
Thank's for all the info. Very thorough review Brad . Thank you
Cheers man
Awesome job as always brad !! Im working on a simple project atm. :)
Thanks Terry. I hope it’s going well.
Very informative video. Thank you!
You guys in North America have so many products to choose from. In Australia we have a fraction of these options, especially in, small DIY quantities. Also, things like danish oil, wipe-on poly, even rattle cans are expensive here. A rustoleum 2X is $13. I'm also interested in emerging tech like UV cure finishes and low-temp powder coat for timber.
DNA paints (Daniel Power’s brand) are amazing. Not really hobbyist material though I suppose.
Very informative as always Brad and I'm working on my workshop mini spray booth this weekend ( for mini guns and air brushing) just to get better and a more wider range of finishes to bodysuit ( I'm a huge fan of dyes/stains and oil finishes) as I just love the look of the wood grain. Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks Stu. You’ll have to show me the booth when it’s ready.
@@BradAngove definitely mate I cant wait t get started but the wife wants the house doing first! I cant see what the rush is hahaha
the ad for this video was for some emotional serious world war one movie then it cut to brad happily saying “what’s up guys?!” and it made me chortle
Haha nice. Odd targeting choice.
Really impressed with your knowledge. Where/how did you become so knowledgeable?
Thanks Jeff. I've just been doing painting/manufacturing for a long time, and have done a lot of research. Along with a couple classes and a little bit of time working in an autobody shop.
Great video valuable info. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great insight Brad!
Thanks boss.
Thanks for the update Brad. I used a 2 part clear over my sparkle purple Jem style. It was expensive stuff, and I mixd it, but it said "acrylic" on the can, which was odd, but the paint supplier told me it was a 2K Poly. So I don't know what it was. But it took bloody weeks to dry hard enough to polish! Polished up good though. The previous guitar I cleared was from a can, a single pack type thing that took months to harden, and then didn't really harden and is still a bit...stick your nail into the finish and it'll dent. I want to encase my sparkly 80's neon crazyness in a clear diamond so they stay unbattered and unfaded. What do you recommend for that for my next, neon yellow project?
And as others have pointed out, your shoulders, chest, traps and arms are looking like they did when you did the ice bucket challenge. Well done, sir! When the ground defrosts enough to get back into the rugby playing, you'll kill 'em!
Haha thanks Arry. The 2K is supposed to be catalyzed to dry cure quickly. Having that in a slow drying acrylic is very odd.
If you’re looking to go the spray can route, consider using the spraymax 2K. I demonstrated it in my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
@@BradAngove Cheers Brad. I actually have a compressor with a gun with 1.4, 1.8 and 2 gauge nozzles, the 2 I use for the glitter, the 1.4 I use for the clear. Just seemed odd it took so long to harden. Weird.
@@Arryhall That is odd. I guess a more typical catalyzed polyurethane might work.
Hey Bud!
Ive been watching everything, just not commenting.
On this one you seem to be covering just about every finish imaginable. Even shellac.
Dont hate me...but I think that Tru Oil and Varnish deserve a mention.
Eastman is making Les Paul styles with an "Antique Varnish" finish, and everybody loves them so far.
Tru oil is probably one of the easiest finishes to apply. Its easy to repair and buff out and if youre doing something like applying a decal and finishing a head stock it's super easy to get a good result.
Last... Ive been working on that Tele. I used Tung oil on the mahogany neck and it came out great. I sanded to 200 (yes 200) then a coat of Tung. I kept doing that sanding lighter each time. Result was a smooth non stick satin feel. Love it.
Thanks for your work. Youve taught me a lot!
Tru-oil is definitely a good option. Very similar to the crimson finishing oil. And yes, I probably should have thrown some varnish in there somewhere haha.
I did a burst guitar paint job on a Precision Kit with House of Kolors with a polyester primer underneath. The finish is beautiful, extremely hard and durable. Like you said, not the easiest to work with but great results. This guitar will probably never relic.
Indeed; there’s no way that will relic.
@@BradAngove Your videos have helped me out a lot. Thanks for all your knowledge and effort. It is greatly appreciated.
As usual man, thanks for all your videos, they provide tons of options for all of us who won't have access to spray guns! I would be awesome if you could make a video using Krylon Colormax, I've done some basses using it, and it works just fine, but perhaps watching you do it, I could have a better idea if I'm messing up at any point.
I’ll see what I can do.
Brad
Merry Christmas great memories good times first Christmas with your new bride. Have a fantastic New Year. Be blessed.
All the best, Dave
Thanks Dave. This will be the second Christmas since I got married.
Very good may it be twice as good as your love has surely doubled, for you have chosen wisely.
Christmas blessings dave
Man I'm early! Cheers and Happy Holidays!
Cheers Pete!
Gonna step up to a decent spray rig soon, where should I look for poly? Local autobody shops? I don't think there was anything listed through the Amazon link.
Also, can poly's be tinted? Sorry if you've gone over this, but I only hear people talking about tinting lacquers. @12:09 you talk about the House of Kolor stuff and say "you can use it over a urethane." I'm not exactly sure what's being said.
Thanks again for all the great content you put out Brad. Always looking forward to see what you're up to!
Some polys can be tinted. I get my 2K online or through Canada car color. Coast airbrush has some good stuff.
Really liking your videos!
Working on a new piece of wood, what type of sealer/prep would you recommend before painting with an automotive acrylic urethane base with topcoat?
An automotive primer should work fine for that.
I can't believe it I thought that's one of my friends wow he is doing a vedio you look almost like him he plays in a band and does wood work ,carpentry,all that stuff I wish I would of learned to expensive to have it done by someone else any who great info thanks for sharing your knowledge..Roland J Gutierrez from Magdalena New Mexico USA..
Brad, great channel and awesome videos. So informative. I am looking for advise. I picked up a Solo Guitar Tele kit and want to paint it. I am handy/crafty but have not done something like this before. I have easy access to Rustoleum and Dupli-color products. Do you have a suggestion for a first timer? Thanks!
I suggest you watch my series on my solo telecaster kit build if you haven’t, and also my old 4 part series on how to paint a guitar with spray cans.
I'll start out by saying that I am not a luthier but I did make an electric guitar from an old acoustic guitar neck (if I was doing it again I'd order an electric neck on eBay but this was about 25 years ago) and a piece of walnut 2" x 4". I applied a clear urethane finish with a brush and since I didn't have a good place to work it ended up with a lot of dust nibs. It works OK and it was a fun project but it will never be a good instrument.
FF to 2014 and the pickup died so I decided it was time to make some other improvements while I had it apart and while I was at it I decided it was time to fix the finish.
Among my other hobbies, I am also a model railroader and I read about using a product called Pledge with Future (now called Pledge Floor Gloss) as an inexpensive clear coat. It is sold where you buy floor wax but it is actually an acrylic finish that can be brushed or sprayed, dries fairly quickly, levels well and produces a perfect high gloss finish with very little effort.
I went over the guitar with steel wool to remove the nibs, then wiping it down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove any finger oil and dust, then hung the guitar and applied a coat of Pledge with a foam brush. I probably could have recoated it in an hour but I let it dry for a day, steel wooled any rough areas, wiped it again and gave it a second coat.
That's all. No waxing, no buffing, nothing.
It hasn't had a lot of use but 5 years later I haven't done anything except dust it occasionally and it still looks like someone spent a lot of time working on making it smooth & shiny.
Intriguing. Thanks for mentioning it.
@@BradAngove I should mention that the Pledge does not have enough body for finishing bare wood (maybe if you applied 20 coats it might fill the pores) but I have used it as a finish coat over Varathane on furniture with similar results. Oddly, I haven't used ot on any models yet...
@@SidecarBob Nice Bob, I build guitars as well as model cars and Future is awesome! I use it all the time on my models, But like you accept opposite, I've oddly enough never used it on a guitar project... It's good to know you have and had good results! I love it because it's not toxic and you can add color to it and it works like a dye.
All my guitars are Daphne Blue or Surf Green, so it's nice to know how to refinish a new guitar down the road to blend in. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching.
good helpful information. thanks
Thanks William.
Hey Brad, as always, I love what you're doing here. Your videos are a big help and fun to watch too.
I don't have any painting equipment, but I love the acrylic satin finish on my Skervesen. Is there a way to do such a finish without an airbrush? What kind of clear coat would you use on that to get that satin feel?
What aspect of it are you thinking an airbrush would be needed for?
@@BradAngove 😂 If one doesn't then that's great. You said you use it for airbrush jobs. Can you apply it like a stain? Have you done a video like that?
I’m just not sure if you’re talking about using an airbrush for color work or for clear. You wouldn’t use it for clear.
You can use a satin wipe on poly. That’s probably the easiest option.
@@BradAngove Yes, I've watched that video you did. I appreciate you taking the time to strain to understand my question.
Sorry, I figured it wasn't necessary to provide more background but it seems I should. I have a guitar like this one skervesen.eu/product/shoggie-dc-8-bolt-on/ and it'd be cool to build another guitar with a similar finish, but that is where my biggest knowledge deficit is. The top is painted or stained, not sure which, and I assume the rest is a clear coat acrylic satin. Could that be correct? The maple top feels smooth, but you can lightly feel the texture of the mahogany on the back.
Can you please do a video on water base finishes? I use Varathane gloss floor finish from home depot. Very durable and hard finish. I was recommended this product by a man who has been in the wood floor insallation business for 50 years. thats all he uses. you can also buy 2 part catalyzed professional grade floor finish which is also super durable, but not from home depot. but i find that the gloss varathane is extremely durable and very hard enough finish. Plus it has aluminum oxide in it which makes your finish harder. It sands beautiful and polishes to a high gloss finish. Can finish about 4-5 guitars with one gallon.
I’m not sure I understand. You appear to have your mind made up about your preferred water based finish. What is it you would like a video about?
@@BradAngove The video would not be for me. I was thinking about your veiwing audience who might not have considered water base finish. Someone who might want an alternative to a hazardous product with high VOC's or solvent cleanup, while still achieving a high gloss (or whatever sheen they choose), super durable, easy clean up, sands easy, can be sprayed or brushed on, dries quick for multiple coats (I spray 1 coat every 10 minutes in the right tempurature. approx. 10 coats) and a little something for the "enviromentalists".....super low VOC's, and very easy to use. And it's an excellent guitar finish which would fit in with the context of your channel. Just thought it would make for a good video for everyone to see. just my 2 cents.
Love Duplicolor ever since you tuned me into that product, have to find out where to get 2k stuff, LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!
Thanks. I’m glad the duplicolor is working for you. You can find the amazon link for the 2K in the description.
@@BradAngove Thanks
Great stuff; have you done a safety video ( like what paints NEED a mask, what kind of mask, and so on?)
I haven’t. I would suggest that a mask is a good idea for almost all paints, with the exception of a few water based ones when they’re not being sprayed.
Drywall mud, diesel fuel, and tint. DONE!😂😂😂😂😂😂
Applied with a hatchet and a lighter?
I used that method on a Gibson LP but before I cleared it (with box tape) I dry brushed a layer of elmers glue on it 😀😀😀😀😀
No mention of Tru-Oil? Pretty popular stuff to use - did a Uke with it and it turned out great. Then there's the Super-Glue finish but...
yeah, the tru-oil is a good option but I covered a variety of oils and the concept is similar. Particularly to the crimson oil.
Super glue isn’t paint haha.
Love your videos sir! Whats the recommended clear coat for acrylic enamel? I usually use spray cans. Thanks again!!
BTW I do have access to a paint gun 👍🏼
It’s usually safest to stick with the same paint type for that sort of thing, but I’ve also used catalyzed polyurethane over acrylic enamel and has consistent success with that.
Dat flip doe!!! 7:08
Mr. Boam old habit from walking around the shop with cans too often haha.
Thanks for the video and all the info. I wish I had found your channel before I started my project!! I painted my guitar with Rustoleum spray paint. Now is ready for the clear coat, which I had bought Rustoleum as well. After watching your video, and wondering if I should use some other Clear coat that dried hard. Not sure if I can do this, or do I need to take off the paint and start over with Mohawk or something similar!
Thanks again for great videos.
Have you seen my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans?
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad, I just watched it!
Thanks Brad, a very informative video, im a believer in that you can not have to much info about any thing, Thanks mate, Cheers
Thanks Casper
Brad, Nice, video. Any thoughts on using marine spar on an electrical guitar?
I’ve seen it done. It’s durable enough I don’t see a problem with it.
Have you tried any of the Colortone water based lacquer? I’m building my first Solo kit and was thinking of going this route because I could spray it in the house instead of outside waiting for Spring with nitro.
I haven’t tried that one specifically. I have used other water based lacquers though. I still don’t recommend spraying them in the house if it can be avoided.
Great content Brad, After watching your previous poly video, I used the wipe on poly on an oxidized ash wood bass, with great success. thanks. I still have plenty of wipe on ploy left and was considering using it on a Tele that I plan on painting flat/satin black. good idea or should I stick to a spray can clear coat? the poly is a satin finish too.
I’m glad the technique worked for you. You can use wipe on or spray can (if compatible), just don’t use the sandpaper technique.
I used a Minwax product called Polycrylic which is a water based Polyurethane on a cart I made for a CNC router I built. Since its water based its low odor and dries pretty quick and sands nice. I am tempted to use it on a guitar. Can't say for sure since I have only used it on a cart but I think its worth a try.
I’ve used it on a guitar. If done properly it can work.
Thanks for the pointer to Mohawk products. I want to take my guitar finishing to the next level, from spray cans to a spray & compressor system. I just had a question about modified Tung Oil, I have only used Japan Dryer and Boiled Linseed Oil on the neck then sand in the linseed oil with 5000 grit sand paper to get really smooth, fast neck. My question is, why do you prefer the modified Tung Oil?
It dries faster and offers more protection. It also doesn’t require as many coats to build a finish.
Nice informative video.
Thanks. Glad you like it.
Great video bro! Probably my favorite part of a build is paint work, The most satisfying I think it seems to bring my builds to life! Lol. I like using rattle cans if I can get away with it just because I frigging hate cleaning my airbrushes! Lol. I hate that little brass tip that the needle runs through... I've broke like 50 in the past 10 yrs. That's one of the reasons I like to use my Paasche-H. The needle/nozzle assembly is all in 1, I usually just drop the whole assembly in lacquer thinner for 10 minutes and she's ready to go! As far as kit guitars go, I was making a bass for my wife for Christmas but there's no way I was going to finish in time, so I wanted to order a quick kit. I wen't to Solo and checked out there bass kits, and the style she wanted were out of stock.... So I ended up buying a kit from Bargain Musician out of Cali. It looked like a great kit, All walnut body, 5 string finished neck decent pup's and matching walnut headstock with all black hardware... Just wondering if you ever bought a kit from them? If so are they any good? And it figures, just a day after I ordered it I got an email from Solo saying there back in stock! Just my luck, Lol. I just hope Bargain Musician is a decent company, (any info from you would be great) thanks for the informative painting video my friend............. Mike (Ipswich River Guitars).
I’ve never purchased from bargain musician, but I’ve heard good things about them.
@@BradAngove Cool, glad to hear that! thx. for getting back my brotha! 🎸🎸👍
If it's a decent kit I'll shoot a video of it when I'm done... I noticed Derick using leather dye for a really cool burst... You ever use it? It looks pretty nice because you can still see a nice grain through it, I was thinking some of that dye with a nice 2 part PPG clear over it for her bass, Looks like some nice grain on that walnut body... Any thoughts?
@@MikeCindyWhite I haven't used the angelus dyes personally, but I have heard nothing but positive comments. I'm pretty confident that you've got a good plan there.
@@BradAngove Awesome bro! Thank you much 👍👍👍
Hi Brad, thank you for all of this wonderful information. I'm planning on refinishing 2 basses in different colors with a spray gun, I'm thinking nitro Mohawk but I'm confused as to what type of paint goes with lacquer or which sealer or clear coat to use, and mixing the base color with the lacquer?. This video you're explaining the paints but for a noob like me if would be helpful to know i.e acrylic paint and which sealer or clear coat...Same goes for lacquer AND/OR can the 2 part catalized poly be used with either types of paints. Luckily I have 2 other bodies to practice. can't wait to see you new video on the nitro green strat. keep up the good work, thanks!!
That’s a good video topic actually. I may do a live video discussing the topic. But in essence, nitro lacquer itself is clear and you can mix a pigment into it to create color, so all of the coats are the same compound.
@@BradAngove Thanks buddy, where can I buy the pigments to mix with the lacquer? I looked at ardec but didn't see the pigments, do you know where I can find them? a link perhaps? thank you
Check out the color tone pigments in the amazon link in the description.
@@BradAngove yeah, I'm bad at mixing colors to get the result I want. So I went to CDN Tire to look at dupli-color colors and there are some interesting colors already in spray format but not in cans/quarts tho'. Would it be possible to decant the spray cans and use them with a spray gun? and what type of undercoat and clear coat should I use? Lacquer clear, poly clear or other? It's bare wood now (i think alder) it has a ding size of a loonie on the front carve and I tried to steam it out but not really working, so I may have to sand the area to make it more even otherwise I'll have to use a filler to build it up, I want to go solid color anyways maybe same tone burst, let me know what you think. thanks
It is possible to decant and spray through a gun. May need a little thinner to keep it flowing though. I’ve done it with an airbrush.
Hi Brad, very interesting video as always, but I see that many of these finishes are not available through Amazon into Canada where I live, and where I thought you lived as well. Are there any other Canadian sources of these products? Thank you for your trouble
Which one are you looking for? Richelieu sells Mohawk and I got the ppg and house of Kolor through Canada car colour.
I’m not sure what their problem is at your location, but regardless, sologuitars is now working on an arrangement so you should be able to purchase Mohawk online through them soon if you can’t already.
Are you talking about the 2K spray cans? They were cheaper at CMAX and at Canada Car Colour.
Glad I could help.
Great information. Can you use Wipe On Poly over Shellac?
Yes, shellac actually works quite well as a sealer for poly.
Great series, thank you. Gloss or semi-gloss for the spray cans?
Use gloss for everything except the ending coats. You’ll need to sand anyway, and gloss reduces the risk of the matting agent causes problems.
@@BradAngove Thanks!
So when they suggest a recoat time on a spray can (or any paint), that's when the paint is at the point where the solvents have evaporated and the paint is still soft enough for the next coat to adhere properly? (flashed?) You explained flashing to me once before, but binging some of your older painting videos tonight made it click in my head.
That’s correct.
Great information ; thank you ; I hope you can answer this :
Can I use artist’s acrylic paint and LIQUITEX varnish on top, on the neck of a guitar ; I like to paint some scrolls detail on it .
You can. I’m not sure that will have all that much durability though.
I know this is weird but can I use exterior semi-gloss house paint and apply with a brush? I want just a solid color.
Yeah, you would do that. It would just be less durable than the typical guitar finish.
@@BradAngove Awesome, thank you. It's a certain shade of white by a certain company. Not sure if it could be matched, so I thought I could use my leftover gallon.
You don’t look like that from lifting paint cans!!
Strength and training video’s coming soon?
There are already too many out of shape people like me doing that haha.
Hi, I'm doing my first guitar kit. You're videos are super informative, but I'm feeling overwhelmed and confused with paint options. I have a mahogany body that I've grain filled, then applied 4 coats of mohawk vinyl sealer. I bought a can of krylon specialty laquer, but after reading negative reviews I havent used it. Then I bought a can of Rust-Oleum high performance enamel paint, because I thought you had used it in a video, but now Im seeing comments to stay away from enamel. I have minimal painting experience. What type of paint will be durable and work with the vinyl sealer that I have down?
That vinyl sealer is intended to be used with Mohawk lacquer. Is the color you’re looking for not available?
@@BradAngove Thanks for responding, Brad! Well I'm not sure. The only mohawk laquer that comes up in my amazon searches has been clear so I figured I was looking at the wrong thing. I'm just looking for a simple gloss black.
After the color, I assume I can finish with the spraymax or car rep 2k clear coat?
Is there a difference in clear coat vs top coat?
I’m not sure what top coat is per se but I don’t think there’s a difference. If you’re just looking for black you can use rustoleum painters touch and clear coat that with the 2K, or you can try just the gloss black enamel and see if that looks how you want it to.
@@BradAngove I appreciate it! I've seen some videos where the wrong combination of products were used and the finish peeled off months later. Just trying to avoid that situation if I were to use the enamel I currently have. Thanks for your time!
When using rattle can spray paints I have the clip on trigger handle attachment that makes it feel more like an air gun sprayer and affords more control overall. saves your fingers from cramping too as well as no paint on your hands...
I’ve done a video on those.
I think one of the biggest problems people have when using like rustoleum is they shake for only 10 seconds instead of an adaqute amount of time.
Yeah, that’s definitely an issue that comes out occasionally.
Hey dude! Great video, I just found your video cus I'm planning on painting the bevels of my guitar, it's color it's black glossy, solid wood, and I'm thinking on putting a green or brown color on the bevels, I think 2k or dupli color may work, what do you think? Should I use one of those? Or I may as well go with other one? (I've never have painted a guitar btw)
Thanks in advance!
You could use duplicolor and then clear coat is with the 2K.
And what if I want to leave the paint with a matte texture, should I use only duplicolor?
No. You should use matte clear coat.
@@BradAngove thanks mate, much appreciated 💪
Pretty informative Brad. Just be careful if you use shellac as a base coat and try and put duplicolor over the top. Sometimes it doesn't stick as the topcoat will peel off when you attach the hardware. Not too sure if it just doesn't like to stick or you have to wait a while for it to completely dry before you put the duplicolor on.
You generally need to let it dry completely and sand it lightly before moving on.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad. Yeah not too sure what why but it happened on two guitars which sort of put me off using it. The first I added stain to colour it and I'm pretty sure I left it a few days to dry before top coating, but most of it peeled off. The second one I used as a base for a yellow tint (which looked good) but again wouldn't adhere under stress. Can't remember if I sanded before I applied duplicolor, it was a long time ago. I just chalked it down to they don't like each other didn't do it again!
Rewatching this.. have you ever tried adding a hardener to shellac?
I’d never even thought of it honestly. What would you use?
@@BradAngove The only stuff I've seen is made by Shine.
Intriguing
question - would you recommend using a gallon bucket of eggshell paint meant for a wall on a guitar?
Recommend? No, not really.
Hey! does the mohawk Classic instrument lacquer need to be thinned to spray? also, i read a review that it is slightly amber, is that true? or is clear.
Pretty much every nitrocellulose lacquer is slightly amber. I would thin it about 20-40 percent typically.
If you had a choice between the spraymax 2K and the Behlen/Mohawk Stringed instrument lacquer - would you have a preference. Ive tried the Crimson FInish oil, true oil and the wipe on polys With some success but i really want to try the Spray Can approach before i bite the bullet and go the HVLP approach. In terms of wipe on polys - i had the best success with the General FInishes Arm-A-Seal vs the Home Depot versions - it was far easier to use. But i am interested in your view of Spray max vs Behlen.
The spray max and the behlen are very different type of products. It’s depends on what you’re looking for.
Hi Brad. I am nearly done with a bass build, my first from the ground up. Poplar body, maple neck. I'm pretty much done with everything except painting the body with a solid color as poplar does not stain well. I'm a new painter and I am looking for the most user-friendly newb painting and clear coating process. What should I go with? I just got a 27 gallon air compressor, but have not tried spraying with it yet.
Nitrocellulose lacquer is a fairly easy product to use, although it is quite toxic and takes a long time to dry. The best part about it for beginners though is that it’s way easier to repair than most other paints.
I use the stuff from Oxford supply. The spray cans are good too if you have any trouble with the compressor setup.
Cool, man. Thanks.
At 10:00 you discuss about customization of nitro. What would I use to color it to a burnt metallic orange?
Do I need to start from a white base color?
You don’t necessarily need start white. An orange base is probably easier to work with. You would then get an orange pigment (for opaque) or dye (for transparent) and a bit of mica powder and just mix them into the nitro.
You're recommending the 2K clear (catalyzed polyurethane) on top of Dupli Color which is acrylic lacquer, but I've been reading that they are not supposed to be compatible. After looking at this video, I thought of going this way, but could you give a bit more info why you are recommending this when it's "not supposed" to be compatible? I'm not at all judging your expertise, I'm more interested in understanding your recommandations.
Thank you!
That’s totally fair. They’re not intended to go together per se, but acrylic lacquer isn’t very solvent-heavy so I find it more broadly compatible than people seem to think. I have personally done a few projects with 2K over duplicolor (one of which is in a 2 part series on my channel) and have found it to work quite well.
I looked at many of your videos actually, which I think are great. I might test on a temporary body your idea of acrylic lacquer with the car-rep 2k on top of it (being in Canada too, I couldn't use your amazon link since it's in the .com). Thank you for your time sir and for the great videos! I will continue to refer to them for reminding me of the steps :P
Hi Brad, I was doing a spaltted kit and was going for a rustic look but now decided to go with automotive paint paint. I stained the top and cleared it with Minwax 63010444 Fast Drying Polyurethane Clear Finish, can I clear the whole guitar with automotive clear? Or am I asking for trouble? Thanks man, great videos!
You should be able to use an automotive polyurethane over that.
Thanks Brad!
The Mohawk brand is not available on Amazon right now. I have looked a lot for it I guess its held up on the rebranding and restocking. Let us know whats up with that please..
Have you checked the Mohawk/Behlen list in the amazon link in the description? It was available last I looked.
@@BradAngove Some items are listed for sale but from 3rd party vendors at crazy prices. $34.00 for a spray can of sealer plus shipping. That makes StewMac look cheap. We know they aren't. If you have any contact at company you might want to contact them and let them know you are promoting a product that they can't sell the way its handled. Amazon has to stock and ship for it to be reasonable.
Thanks for the heads up.
Hey Brad.. sorry I'm just now getting to this video (I've been in the hospital for a while). Anyway, I do have a question, which you may have covered in this video BUT, I was to busy wondering why on God's green earth you wear shirts 4 sizes to small for someone your size. My question is: how long would you recommend I let a duplicolor spray job cure before I wet sand and clear?
3-4 weeks usually.
What type of paint does sherwin williams automotive use? Just curious if i can spray that over my Strat project
I think they have a few kinds. Likely mostly acrylic and polyurethane.
Thank you, I appreciate this list! I am curious what you think I should use if I want to paint like words on my guitar (a la Woody Guthrie or Tom Morello)? I'd prefer to use a brush rather than a spray can or gun because I feel I'm more accurate like that.
You can use acrylics. They tend to be fairly broadly compatible. As long as you’re spraying over them.
Here where I live I can only fine nitro lacquer and PU automotive paints... I'm a begginer. What do you recommend?
Nitro lacquer is easier to repair if something goes wrong.
so many things have gone wrong that I wish I used lacquer! hahhaa
Sorry to hear that
Hi..you inspired me to paint my strat.(bad idea on my part lol)...it's all painted with spray cans and buffed it but I can still see small scratches so want to lacquer on top....I've seen you video where u say lacquer eats into its self but does it eat into paint and how much should I sand before applying
Thanks in advance
Lacquer won’t just melt into other paints generally, although it does depend somewhat on the type. I would generally advise sanding with some 600 grit before applying it.
@@BradAngove thanks .. I'll sand it so
Hey Brad!
Is it possible to use Clear Nitro Lacquer over Acrylic Pearl finish?
I have done so successfully before. They’re not designed to work together, but I haven’t had problems.
@@BradAngove so you recommend adding clear nitro lacquer 30min-1hour after the Acrylic Metallic/Pearl finish has been sprayed? Or should I wait more time?
Hi Brad, interested to your video.. I need your opinion for a water-based paint related of resonance of wood/tone wood. What is effect to the tone wood compared with nitro, I mean..I saw a rest of water based dried paint such a plastic film, so I think can reduced the tone wood. Thankyou.
Is this for an acoustic instrument?
I've had enough trouble with rustoleum cans spitting and sputtering on other projects that I've pretty much ruled that out.
I imagine you’ve seen my videos on making your cans spray better and avoiding spitting.
@@BradAngove I'd say it's time for a rewatch.
If you decide to use acrylic for your electric guitar can you mix the two like an oil base and a water base which is what I mean is can you do part of the guitar with water base and the other part of the guitar with
I don’t think that’s advisable. It could create some significant issues for top-coating.
What would you recommend for doing a spot repair on an early 90's solid body.
It’s probably a poly finish, but if the paint is that old you can use poly or lacquer.
Oh no. He said the finish wont effect the tone... you cant say that on the internet.lol
Do you have any additional tips for spraying matte clear? I bought some of that SprayMax matte clear. I plan on heating up the can, wetting the floor down and wearing a respirator. But as far as getting a smooth finish, do I have to worry about orange peel with matte? If so, I can't sand and buff.
You apply matte much the same way as any other clear. Unfortunately is can still be subject to some orange peel. I sometimes will build up a few coats of gloss, let it dry fully, sand flat, and then add a light coat of matte to finish off.
@@BradAngove thanks so much for the info!
I have a Yamaha RBX375 Bass that I am going to refinish. Should I sand the original finish down to bare wood? Specifically if I go with a polyurethane paint? Wanting to do a mirrored deep purple finish and will most likely have to use the House of Colors paints. Great reshoot on this subject.
No need to go to bare wood if you’re not doing a natural finish. Just a grade the current paint for adhesion purposes.
You may be able to get away with just roughing up the finish that is already on it. If you do decide that removing the finish is necessary, I wouldn't sand it off. Use a brush on lacquer/paint stripper. You'll run less risk of over sanding and damaging the body.
I almost ruined the bevels on my B.C. Rich Beast because I decided to sand it off by hand.
Thanks guys for the quick reply.
Hey Brad, recently picked up an Allparts SRO-V Neck for a strat I'm going to put together. I am going to finish it with canned nitro lacquer but I was wondering if I should use a sealer underneath it and what you would recommend if yes.
I should mention, I'm going for a vintage 60s strat feel and finish.
I would generally use a coat or two of Mohawk vinyl sealer under it, or sanding sealer.
@@BradAngove would that effect the flame on the maple, assuming there is one?
It’s clear if that’s what you mean.
@@BradAngove cool I appreciate the knowledge
@@BradAngove I was referring to the highlights of the grain. Would sand sealer raise or take away from those highlights?
What type cartridges do you use for a respirator
Just the kind that came with it. I’ve never had to replace my cartridges.
What professional finish do you recommend for an acoustic guitar solid color.
Personally I would go with a nitrocellulose lacquer
So am I correct that with painting a guitar I have to just get white and mix it myself? And how to I color the paint till the shade I want? Dyes or something like that. I wanna not use spray paint.
You can buy paint in other colors
@@BradAngove I cant seem to find them in the colors I want. Like Black light paint. Or is it called uv paint. Either way I want it to react to a black light. Or like very bright neon colors.
Went painting a guitar body with candy’s what do you use to seal the wood? I’m wanting keep the grain visible.
Transparent sealer. Usually Mohawks vinyl sealer.
@@BradAngove was thinking maybe a clear shellac?
What do you think about a flat black paint under a 2k gloss?
It will work fine.
Hey brad, I'm planning on painting a 3 burst tele with a sort of mango yellow colour, but I would like the original burst to slowly reveal itself overtime. Have you got any recommendations for paints that will naturally relic or will they all work?
slowly reveal itself in what manner?
As in it will relic. I mean I don't want the paint to be indestructible, I'm not planning on actively relicing it though. But with time it will.
Nitrocellulose lacquer is the classic option if you want it to relic.
@@BradAngove thanks so much
I am making my first guitar and trying to figure out what finish the put on the neck. I am considering tung oil, but I have read that you have to reapply the oil every couple of months. Is this true? If it is, what are some of the other options that could give me similar finish to tung oil? Thanks!
The modified tung oil tends to last, but you can get a somewhat similar finish if you use my technique from my video on applying a poly finish on a neck.
How about the humble Tru oil... works a treat
Crimson Guitars finishing oil is basically a knock off.
Tru oil is certainly an option. And yes, crimson makes a similar product, although engineered slightly differently.
Hi. I need some advice. I'm going to paint my guitar with acrylic base coat, and then spray Maston 2K clear. How long do I have to wait before I put 2K on acrylic base coat?
Cheers!
Wait 2 weeks.
@@BradAngove Thanks!
@@BradAngove One more question. Do I sand base coat, after these two weeks, before I put 2K clear?
Lightly, yes.
saw DIY gene mix his own acrylics (custom color) and then use tru oil for gloss then buffed? any comment on either part of that approach. I haven't seen you mention tru oil.
I’ve seen people use tru oil over acrylic before. I’ve never done it though.
@@BradAngove I am going to paint my first one here and I find you very knowledgeable. I am a little nervous about the clear coat part as I have a confined indoor space or have to go outdoors. The tru oil thing looks appealing as I could do in my small space. In you pro opinion do those finished that way look good. Assuming if you haven't done that maybe not the greatest on durability compared to other choices? Keep the videos coming they are great
@@BradAngove have also seen others do clear coat (cans) then minwax lacquer over clear coat. Do you typically ever do both or just one or the other? Let me know. Your videos are super helpful
Is Minwax Polycrylic paint good for painting my guitar...using a spray gun? I'm pretty sure it's actually a polyurethane paint.
It’s an acrylic. I’ve never tried spraying it. The stuff isn’t bad, but it isn’t particularly durable.
@@BradAngove Thanks...I continued looking it up and found one site that says Polycrylic is a Minwax "Brand name" for polyurethane, not sure I'm going to trust that so I'm going a different way. Sometimes trying to save a penny just isn't worth it. Thank you and thanks for the response.
Hi brad, im gonna try to refinish my guitar. For some reason the paint is really thin and i keep on finding paint chips all over my guitar body. I think it has polyurethane on as base for it. Can you advise me what spray paint i can use to achieve a gloss black/white finish?
Are you removing the old paint first? If so you can use almost whatever paint you want.
@@BradAngove yes… btw my guitar is an ibanez rgd7ucs-ish… the factory paint looks awesome but i have been really disappointed on how the paint holds up. This is the 1st time that i have chips from really light bumps on the guitar. Even on the output jacks. If i used an angled cable it would chip easily. I dont get why it’s even a prestige when the paint quality sucks. My ibanez gio had better paint than my prestige
If you’re looking for a more durable finish take a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
Your vids are very inspiring. Might have to try this with an old guitar. Have you ever tried a stone texture spray paint on a guitar?
Thank you. I’ve done some stone texture work, but not on a guitar yet.
Hmm thats an idea. I wish to use the 2 component urethane over a 1 stage acrylic candy paint? Would that hurt my acrylic enamel?
I would mix it & try utilizing a prevail spray can system...may depend on the thinner.
I’ve used that combination of paint types successfully a few times.
@@BradAngove a moment for helping answer a dire question of mine? Recommendations if possible.
My project is (outdoors): 👇
▪︎What quick dry sealer would you recommend trying over a
Rusto silver & metalic flakes, if i want to bury the flakes in clear & sanding on it on the next following day?????
I will sand it with a heavy grit 220 if possible for my finishing clear... better than epoxy exterior clear coat, it is compatible with acylics.
I have been trying to consider either a water-based type (sanding sealer??), or water version (precat lacquer/conversion varnish) type that i see used on guitars.
I only have heard a lot about general finishes precat lacquer.
If you want to sand after 24 hours you will likely want to consider a catalyzed finish overtop. Normally I would sand with 600 or 800 grit before applying that final clear for the finish.
When using nitrocellulose, where do you get your pigments from?
The amazon link in the description has colortone pigments in it.
Painting clear nitro over an automotive basecoat, do you need to sand or prep the basecoat, i sprayed one up a week or so ago with basecoat and have now scraped all the edges clean ready to be clear coated but unsure how to proceed
What kind of automotive base coat?
@@BradAngove acrylic
Ok, those should work together if you let the acrylic dry 100%. But yes, you will need to sand it a bit to allow the nitro to bond to it.
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