A nitrous bottle opener electronic solenoid controlled via Holley Dominator Output pin would be pretty sweet too for the Co2 “on/off”. That’s how I’m gonna do mine
Thanks John. Your motivating to me. I love the vids. Especially suspension videos. Most small tire racers won’t say crap about suspension that’s my weakest area of racing. Thanks to you I learned a lot. Much appreciation.
Co2 is the way to go. I use Mac valves Bc they’re cheap and reliable. There are lots of other valves that work that you can find on industrial diesels and shit. But for sure. One solenoid puts co2 in the dome and the other bleeds it off which is legit Bc in closed loop boost control you can keep that gate pinned down and then start to quickly open it as it gets close to target pressure. Which is different from just having a line to the button of your waste gate. The gate will start to open before you are at boost pressure so you are losing that exhaust energy even tho you’re not at target boost. Co2 over time based is what I like and it’s really a game changer if you haven’t messed with it before and are having trouble spooling up or managing power. In the beginning or whatever, for me it was around 5.80-6.20 range, I used it a lot of power management. Now I also use a Timing retard over time and pretty much only adjust the start boost level and the ramp, in time, and leave the curve alone. Boost manipulation isn’t as fast as timing manipulation. To each their own tho. To me it’s really important to verify your sensors and shit are accurate as well. I have a pressure and vacuum rig I made. It’s a vacuum log manifold and I test my sensors against a known calibrated gauge to make sure the transducers are accurate. And especially the map sensor. You can pick of a vacuum transducer on amazon or whatever. I got it originally for pulling vacuum on the cooling system but have found other uses for it. I say this because I had a bad map sensor exactly like John did but mine was stuck at 22 pounds. 🤬. Lol. So check your sensors if you can. They do break sadly even if they look ok. But for sure. Bottle, reg, two Mac valves, dome pressure transducer and you can start. I use a dominator on my cousins car and a haltech 2500 on mine but the components for boost control are the same. So it’s three wires. One for each Mac valve (the negative wires output) and then a input for the dome sensor signal wire. Also might not hurt to have a hard cut for overboost when messing around and learning what duty cycle makes what boost. The tech we have now at the price we can get it is amazing to me. One ecu can run the entire car basically. Also, always remember that when spooling up or managing power on turbo stuff, if you retard that timing too much you can make more boost as that fuel is combusting in the pipe after the exhaust valve is closed pre turbine housing. I found that out the hard way years ago and also more boost doesn’t always mean more power but it does mean more heat. It seems like a lot to take in but it’s not. Set yourself up to get as much data as you can and keep chipping away at it slowly. These cars are wicked fast for not very much money relatively speaking now days and we need to keep all the racers especially the smart ones here nice and safe so we can keep chipping away at it and learning together. But to me, gotta have co2 and also gotta have back pressure sensor as well. It’s fine if you don’t have it just be mindful that you can run over your turbo when you are going max effort and sometimes it burns the strap off the plug and makes a mess of things. 😭. Anyways I am done ranting and shit. Get some. America baby.
Love the vids man. Id love to chop it up with you to get info into the turbo world. Im currently building a street s10.. and man I tell you your vids help.. Keep up the good work
Yes, I saw that one. Im currently in Afghanistan and trying to piece together parts for my SBC single turbo mustang build. I was wondering if you had any real issues with header clearance near the strut towers or motor plate? What radiator are you running since the turbo is center mounted? Right now my car is with the chassis builder, so Im thinking no is the time to go tubular front end.
On the Holley system, you can make the scrabble/bump button the same. You have to set it up in the advanced tables so that it is dual function. I have a separate scrabble button that is on the dash for mine.
Also, Are you also running basic 3 port Mac valves for boost solenoids? I was on the fence between Holley and Fueltech. With all the local and internet support I will be going with Holley EFI. THANKS
Always read your Plugs your fuel makes horsepower engines love fuel It's not a bunch of air and vapor that's lean You only use that momentarily for wheel speed
I like these style videos lately !! I'm always looking to learn something new but also I like to see how others setup there cars. Good job John thanks
Thanks
A nitrous bottle opener electronic solenoid controlled via Holley Dominator Output pin would be pretty sweet too for the Co2 “on/off”. That’s how I’m gonna do mine
Loving the videos turbo John!! Very informative. Thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks John. Your motivating to me. I love the vids. Especially suspension videos. Most small tire racers won’t say crap about suspension that’s my weakest area of racing. Thanks to you I learned a lot. Much appreciation.
Thanks
SO MUCH CONTENT! Loving it John!
Thanks
These videos are awesome man, thanks for sharing all the knowledge!
Yes sir, thanks!
Thanks for explaining now can you do one in fuel and timing?! I have no clue when to pull time or fuel I been doing it on closed loop or email lol
Does it matter how close you mount the solenoids to the wastegates?
Nice video!! I'm Going to co2 very soon!!
Welp learnt me something new today!!! Great knowledge thanks for sharing!
Thanks
Co2 is the way to go. I use Mac valves Bc they’re cheap and reliable. There are lots of other valves that work that you can find on industrial diesels and shit. But for sure. One solenoid puts co2 in the dome and the other bleeds it off which is legit Bc in closed loop boost control you can keep that gate pinned down and then start to quickly open it as it gets close to target pressure. Which is different from just having a line to the button of your waste gate. The gate will start to open before you are at boost pressure so you are losing that exhaust energy even tho you’re not at target boost. Co2 over time based is what I like and it’s really a game changer if you haven’t messed with it before and are having trouble spooling up or managing power. In the beginning or whatever, for me it was around 5.80-6.20 range, I used it a lot of power management. Now I also use a Timing retard over time and pretty much only adjust the start boost level and the ramp, in time, and leave the curve alone. Boost manipulation isn’t as fast as timing manipulation. To each their own tho. To me it’s really important to verify your sensors and shit are accurate as well. I have a pressure and vacuum rig I made. It’s a vacuum log manifold and I test my sensors against a known calibrated gauge to make sure the transducers are accurate. And especially the map sensor. You can pick of a vacuum transducer on amazon or whatever. I got it originally for pulling vacuum on the cooling system but have found other uses for it. I say this because I had a bad map sensor exactly like John did but mine was stuck at 22 pounds. 🤬. Lol. So check your sensors if you can. They do break sadly even if they look ok. But for sure. Bottle, reg, two Mac valves, dome pressure transducer and you can start. I use a dominator on my cousins car and a haltech 2500 on mine but the components for boost control are the same. So it’s three wires. One for each Mac valve (the negative wires output) and then a input for the dome sensor signal wire. Also might not hurt to have a hard cut for overboost when messing around and learning what duty cycle makes what boost. The tech we have now at the price we can get it is amazing to me. One ecu can run the entire car basically. Also, always remember that when spooling up or managing power on turbo stuff, if you retard that timing too much you can make more boost as that fuel is combusting in the pipe after the exhaust valve is closed pre turbine housing. I found that out the hard way years ago and also more boost doesn’t always mean more power but it does mean more heat. It seems like a lot to take in but it’s not. Set yourself up to get as much data as you can and keep chipping away at it slowly. These cars are wicked fast for not very much money relatively speaking now days and we need to keep all the racers especially the smart ones here nice and safe so we can keep chipping away at it and learning together. But to me, gotta have co2 and also gotta have back pressure sensor as well. It’s fine if you don’t have it just be mindful that you can run over your turbo when you are going max effort and sometimes it burns the strap off the plug and makes a mess of things. 😭. Anyways I am done ranting and shit. Get some. America baby.
Always very informative
What PID settings do you like to start with With regular Mac valves l
Love the vids man. Id love to chop it up with you to get info into the turbo world. Im currently building a street s10.. and man I tell you your vids help.. Keep up the good work
Thanks, good luck with yours! Turbo is the way to go for sure! IMO
So do you have a separate map sensor from the dome sensor?
hey john what transducer do you use or should i use that does'nt cost a arm and leg lol
What type of valve is on your bottle
Can you show how you have duty cycle, triggering.. In the tune?
What do you mean?
Can you do a video on your turbo setup for the SBC?
I did a vid going over some of the details of my car. The basics. th-cam.com/video/lhrkO_ocGjw/w-d-xo.html
Yes, I saw that one. Im currently in Afghanistan and trying to piece together parts for my SBC single turbo mustang build. I was wondering if you had any real issues with header clearance near the strut towers or motor plate? What radiator are you running since the turbo is center mounted? Right now my car is with the chassis builder, so Im thinking no is the time to go tubular front end.
This was a good video. Thanks for sharing
john, so are you saying your transbrake button is your scramble button? did i hear that right? good videos very informative.
On the Holley system, you can make the scrabble/bump button the same. You have to set it up in the advanced tables so that it is dual function. I have a separate scrabble button that is on the dash for mine.
I would have thought you would need two pressure sensors. With a twin turbo set up, would you still use one sensor or need two??
For dome pressure, just one
@@TurboJohnRacing Thank you very much.
great video thanx 👍
Thanks
Are you running Holley pressure sensors or did you find cheaper alternatives?
100psi transducers off amazon is what most of mine are, I do have a couple holley ones. But cannot tell much difference in life span.
Also, Are you also running basic 3 port Mac valves for boost solenoids? I was on the fence between Holley and Fueltech. With all the local and internet support I will be going with Holley EFI. THANKS
John what is your daily driver
Mine is a beater, Saturn Vue! LOL
Turbo John lol fuck itsomeon talk shit you pull up in race car lol and blow there doors off
Nice! What size is your hot side?
Headers are 1 3/4 or 1 7/8, crossover is 2.5”. But it went really fast with 1 5/8” headers!
Turbo John right on thanks for the reply!
Is CO2 better then running a small 12v air compressor?
I like co2, but on board air will work
Turbo John thanks love your channel - gives us non-sponsored hot rodders inspiration
Where did you get your bottle from
eBay
Always read your Plugs your fuel makes horsepower engines love fuel It's not a bunch of air and vapor that's lean You only use that momentarily for wheel speed