You might try setting up a router The baseplate would have two pins set apart to follow the outside curve. We used that to scribe on a radius. A round bar was located between the pins in a perpendicular setup with the scribed on the end of the bar farthest from the two pins. The pins were mounted thru a flat plate that registered on the same face as the scribe. The scribe would be your milling cutter. Hope that makes some kind of sense. Best of luck and I enjoy your videos. Greg T
Always enjoy your videos! Like the old saying goes, some times you eat the Bear, Sometimes the Bear eats you! But some excellent out of the box thinking on the sanding jig! Keep up the good work! You always learn from the challenges.
or clamp it to something and put sandpaper through slot and do it by hand, or slide the sand paper through and attach either end to a dowel and do it by hand, or use the files by hand
A sanding bow, of any type, would have created too much of an arc. Most files didn't fit. The ones that did were too fine to do the job. Watch to the end to see the this rasp I made from a tongued depressor and 60 grit sandpaper.
Tom, I really do like your work. Also the thinking process that you display is very helpful to all of us. Thank you for your content. The project is really looking good and I look forward to your completion.
Dear Woodshop Nerdery, . I’m getting to like your channel more & more! Thank you. . As for this project, I don’t think I’d ever attempt it, as I have personal experience with these chairs. . We have an original example that spent its summers on the front porch of our authentic 19th c. log cabin, c. 1825-1875, my historian mother opined. . My parents bought it in 1963, and we made it a year-round-capable house in 1989-90, when we basically added a full house to the three-room cabin-plus-lean-to-kitchen. . Anyway, the chair: It spent its winters inside, unheated when we weren’t there to keep the wood stove lit. . The chair got weathered, and it inevitably split at the “handholds” on the front of the rails, right along the grain direction. . If I were going to attempt making this chair, I think I’d choose laminating two cores of Baltic birch plywood together, with edge banded veneer to protect against water intrusion. . Will you be doing the weaving / macrame of the seat & back, or will your wife or children, or all of the above? . Best great luck to you! . David, Fredericksburg, Va.
Or perhaps you could have a thick central layer of Baltic birch plywood, thickly veneered at each side with hardwood (i.e., 1/4”), and then edge banding as mentioned before.
Thanks David. I agree, the chairs are a great example of "form over function," and the design shows several weak spots. I built up the legs' thickness using 2 layers of hardwood. My hope is that the slightly different grain patterns give some reinforcement
I feel this Tom. I've had a project sitting idle for about 7 months now just because I've been too scared to learn on the fly and "paralyzing fear" is a real thing. 😕
Man; tedious! The wandering bit must have been a nightmare. It's never the things you anticipate that cause the problems, it's the things you don't. As you say, "sometimes fast and easy just aren't in the cards." Case in point: I was just drilling some dowel holes in the ends of some 3/4"x1'x8' boards (I'm making a 46' continuous bottom, and matching 46' top, for a large bookshelf and want the individual pieces secured together end to end). Not an easy feat, but shouldn't be too bad. So, I'm set up in horizontal boring mode, with the headstock all the way to the left hand end of the machine, the table secured so the holes are centered at 3/8", the piece extending over the extension table at the right hand end, and my outfeed roller about 4' away, supporting the back end. Clamped the piece in place onto the back of the table, with 2 spring clamps at the "business end" of the table. Took an inordinate amount of time to get the holes exactly centered in the thickness, so I could just flip the boards over and drill the second hole and have them mate properly. Even with the microadjuster, if was a bear--the stock is so thin that the table has to go so low there's barely enough room for the microadjuster. Half a dozen pieces of scrap and I've finally got THAT issue fixed. Onto "the real thing." First hole's perfect. Second seems kind of shallow. Sink a depth gauge into the first and compare to the second, and I'm about 1/4" too shallow. Huh? OK. Make sure the drill bit is bottomed out in the chuck, so it's not getting pushed in with the pressure, move the table closer and readjust the depth stop. No joy. Recheck the locks on the headstock and table. Secure. Readjust the depth stop on the quill to go deeper. Redrill. No joy. So, what the H.E.double toothpicks is going on?? After a couple of minutes of head scratching and rechecking everything, I readjusted the depth stop on the quill the 1/4" difference I STILL had and tried it again watching the progress of the bit. When it got to it's previous depth and it started to "bite," THE D!@#$D TABLE started edging away!! I'd tried to check the locking of the table by nudging it and it had seemed solid. But when I pushed a little harder, it slid. The table carriage lock on my 510 can't really be cranked down, like it could on my old 500 and I'm suspicious it's got dirt and paste wax in it, causing the slippage. I'll have to clean it out. I've got 30 more holes in 9 more units, but the setup is so finicky and tedious, I'm afraid to break it up to do the servicing, for fear it'll take hours to get it set up right again. So, I just stuck a rubber-faced clamp onto the way tube behind the table and will call it good. THEN I'll consider doing a servicing. So, I empathized strongly with your problems.
Regarding my previous comments about weakness of the “handles” of the front of the left & right seat rails, which cracked along the grain after being in semi-regular use for 50+ years. What about using some good looking heavy brass C-shaped mending plates at those front corners? Either two per rail, or even one per rail, with carriage bolts, and flush fit female threaded bolts to give it some beautiful metal work? . Good luck on your GREAT PROJECT. I really like your channel & your style! ----- 😉👋🏽
Check out next level carpentry on TH-cam. He has a video on how to make push sticks/handles using mdf templates he makes himself to repeat cuts with a router. I’m sure you might have thought of that already. Looks great.
Thanks Devinski! Yes, I have seen many Next Level Carpentry videos including the push block video. One of the few true masters of the craft on TH-cam. I thought about template routing for the slots, but honestly I was just intimated.
I don't think they make brad point bits that small in diameter. With super high speed and a very gentle feed you can minimize drift. But it's still iffy. Any time you're drilling more than three times the diameter of a bit deep you're getting into deep hole boring then.
@@1pcfred Woodcraft offers Brad Drill sets in Imperial sets from 1/16" to 1/2" in 1/64 increments, however the 1/8" size is the smallest true brad point. They don't say on the website what the 1/16' - 7/64' sizes have for a point. They also have a metric set from 1 mm to 13 mm in 0.5 mm increments. Again, the 3 mm is the smallest true brad point.
@@larryvergon6740 I don't know what the smallest brad point is in my set. None of them are easy to sharpen. I have no problem whatsoever sharpening conical twist drill bits though. I've had lots of practice.
Great question Mitch. The short answer is, I don't know how. I did google that question before I started. But I just could figure out how route the curve with a complicated fixture. Also I would need a 1/4 inch bit that was about 1 1/2 inches long. That made me nervous I guess.
@@woodshopnerdery with a router you cut in steps. Going a bit deeper with each pass. You wouldn't go the full inch and a half all in one go. That'd be a tad too intense. If it was me I'd use a template too. If you're going to buy a router and want it to be one and done then go for the gusto and get a 1/2" collet plunge router. It's the most versatile router type. They're also the most expensive. Funny how that works. But you can do more with them compared to the cheaper 1/4" collet twist bodies. It'd be the better tool for what I'm seeing needs to be done here. Although there are jobs where a trim router is better. Big 1/2" plunge routers are big.
Great video Tom. I'm glad that I'm not the only one who ends up with problems and has to do some additional learning to solve them. Your videos help me a lot. In this case, the ShopSmith Strip sander would go a long way to solve the problem that you resolved with cotter keys on your jig saw. It does a great job sanding inside cuts. Here's a link to Scott Markwood's video describing this slick little machine. th-cam.com/video/wG7dr6IDv44/w-d-xo.html..
man, nice video here. You surprised me with the little drill holes. didn't know that it would be so far off on hard wood. Then again I don't use hardwood too much. I like engineering type projects with plywood. Maybe in the future I'll want to tackle something with more hardwood, despite the clear problems. As I watched further I see you used a hand drill? no way man you need a guide at least.
Please check my Community tab for answers to common questions and the latest information! - th-cam.com/users/woodshopnerderycommunity
“Blessings generally far outweighed my burdens”. Winner!
😁😁😁
Too true too often. Learning during the course of a project is really a mark of stretching oneself. Thanks for making so many of us feel normal!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it
You might try setting up a router
The baseplate would have two pins set apart to follow the outside curve.
We used that to scribe on a radius. A round bar was located between the pins in a perpendicular setup with the scribed on the end of the bar farthest from the two pins. The pins were mounted thru a flat plate that registered on the same face as the scribe.
The scribe would be your milling cutter.
Hope that makes some kind of sense.
Best of luck and I enjoy your videos.
Greg T
Great tip, Gregory! I'll think through that one next time.
I think you are doing great. That little slot is a real challenge. Once you get the fabric in the slot it's going to look great.
Thanks, David! That is very true; the danish cord will cover quite a bit anyway.
It's all good. You're doing great and will be really pleased with the final result.
Thanks Mark!
Way to keep your blessings in mind. Keep going, buddy!
Thanks Scott!
Thanks for sharing. Keep up the great work. The struggle is real. :)
Thanks Jason!
Yuh gotta keep on, keepin’ on!
Lookin - - good!
Thanks John!
Great vid! I am learning much from these videos. Turning mistakes become design changes but it can be frustrating.
So glad you liked the video, James!
Thanks for the great video Tom. I like the reminder to count our blessings. That project is way too advanced for me at this point.
Thanks for your support, Mark!
Always enjoy your videos! Like the old saying goes, some times you eat the Bear, Sometimes the Bear eats you! But some excellent out of the box thinking on the sanding jig! Keep up the good work! You always learn from the challenges.
Thanks Delbert, I appreciate the encouragement!
Keep on keeping on!
Thanks, Albert!
I like the way that you think though wood working problems and you really do great work. Thank you for the lesson and the videos.
Thanks so much Rocky!
or clamp it to something and put sandpaper through slot and do it by hand, or slide the sand paper through and attach either end to a dowel and do it by hand, or use the files by hand
A sanding bow, of any type, would have created too much of an arc. Most files didn't fit. The ones that did were too fine to do the job. Watch to the end to see the this rasp I made from a tongued depressor and 60 grit sandpaper.
i did watch it and was glad you did it by hand. I like videos and your processes.
Thanks Stuart. I appreciate it. I am experimenting with the best balance of hand tools and power tools.
Them files would clog up in a couple of strokes.
Tom,
I really do like your work. Also the thinking process that you display is very helpful to all of us. Thank you for your content. The project is really looking good and I look forward to your completion.
Thanks, Jim; I appreciate it.
Dear Woodshop Nerdery,
.
I’m getting to like your channel more & more! Thank you.
.
As for this project, I don’t think I’d ever attempt it, as I have personal experience with these chairs.
.
We have an original example that spent its summers on the front porch of our authentic 19th c. log cabin, c. 1825-1875, my historian mother opined.
.
My parents bought it in 1963, and we made it a year-round-capable house in 1989-90, when we basically added a full house to the three-room cabin-plus-lean-to-kitchen.
.
Anyway, the chair: It spent its winters inside, unheated when we weren’t there to keep the wood stove lit.
.
The chair got weathered, and it inevitably split at the “handholds” on the front of the rails, right along the grain direction.
.
If I were going to attempt making this chair, I think I’d choose laminating two cores of Baltic birch plywood together, with edge banded veneer to protect against water intrusion.
.
Will you be doing the weaving / macrame of the seat & back, or will your wife or children, or all of the above?
.
Best great luck to you!
.
David,
Fredericksburg, Va.
Or perhaps you could have a thick central layer of Baltic birch plywood, thickly veneered at each side with hardwood (i.e., 1/4”), and then edge banding as mentioned before.
Thanks David. I agree, the chairs are a great example of "form over function," and the design shows several weak spots. I built up the legs' thickness using 2 layers of hardwood. My hope is that the slightly different grain patterns give some reinforcement
I feel this Tom. I've had a project sitting idle for about 7 months now just because I've been too scared to learn on the fly and "paralyzing fear" is a real thing. 😕
Thanks Tim. You need to get back to the project!
Pattern routing
Man; tedious! The wandering bit must have been a nightmare. It's never the things you anticipate that cause the problems, it's the things you don't. As you say, "sometimes fast and easy just aren't in the cards."
Case in point: I was just drilling some dowel holes in the ends of some 3/4"x1'x8' boards (I'm making a 46' continuous bottom, and matching 46' top, for a large bookshelf and want the individual pieces secured together end to end). Not an easy feat, but shouldn't be too bad. So, I'm set up in horizontal boring mode, with the headstock all the way to the left hand end of the machine, the table secured so the holes are centered at 3/8", the piece extending over the extension table at the right hand end, and my outfeed roller about 4' away, supporting the back end. Clamped the piece in place onto the back of the table, with 2 spring clamps at the "business end" of the table. Took an inordinate amount of time to get the holes exactly centered in the thickness, so I could just flip the boards over and drill the second hole and have them mate properly. Even with the microadjuster, if was a bear--the stock is so thin that the table has to go so low there's barely enough room for the microadjuster. Half a dozen pieces of scrap and I've finally got THAT issue fixed. Onto "the real thing." First hole's perfect. Second seems kind of shallow. Sink a depth gauge into the first and compare to the second, and I'm about 1/4" too shallow. Huh?
OK. Make sure the drill bit is bottomed out in the chuck, so it's not getting pushed in with the pressure, move the table closer and readjust the depth stop. No joy. Recheck the locks on the headstock and table. Secure. Readjust the depth stop on the quill to go deeper. Redrill. No joy. So, what the H.E.double toothpicks is going on?? After a couple of minutes of head scratching and rechecking everything, I readjusted the depth stop on the quill the 1/4" difference I STILL had and tried it again watching the progress of the bit. When it got to it's previous depth and it started to "bite," THE D!@#$D TABLE started edging away!! I'd tried to check the locking of the table by nudging it and it had seemed solid. But when I pushed a little harder, it slid. The table carriage lock on my 510 can't really be cranked down, like it could on my old 500 and I'm suspicious it's got dirt and paste wax in it, causing the slippage. I'll have to clean it out. I've got 30 more holes in 9 more units, but the setup is so finicky and tedious, I'm afraid to break it up to do the servicing, for fear it'll take hours to get it set up right again. So, I just stuck a rubber-faced clamp onto the way tube behind the table and will call it good. THEN I'll consider doing a servicing.
So, I empathized strongly with your problems.
Keep after it Tom, if it was easy you would not have chosen it.
Thanks Chris, I did want to push myself. I am a student of the craft after all.
Keep at it. You're getting it.
Thanks Paul!
Regarding my previous comments about weakness of the “handles” of the front of the left & right seat rails, which cracked along the grain after being in semi-regular use for 50+ years.
What about using some good looking heavy brass C-shaped mending plates at those front corners? Either two per rail, or even one per rail, with carriage bolts, and flush fit female threaded bolts to give it some beautiful metal work?
.
Good luck on your GREAT PROJECT. I really like your channel & your style!
-----
😉👋🏽
Great suggestion David. I was also think about some through dowels could be used for a repair in that area if needed.
Check out next level carpentry on TH-cam. He has a video on how to make push sticks/handles using mdf templates he makes himself to repeat cuts with a router. I’m sure you might have thought of that already. Looks great.
Thanks Devinski! Yes, I have seen many Next Level Carpentry videos including the push block video. One of the few true masters of the craft on TH-cam. I thought about template routing for the slots, but honestly I was just intimated.
Brad Point Drill Bits!! They won't wander in wood grain like standard drill bits with the 118° points.
Great tip Larry, I will make sure to remember that next time.
I don't think they make brad point bits that small in diameter. With super high speed and a very gentle feed you can minimize drift. But it's still iffy. Any time you're drilling more than three times the diameter of a bit deep you're getting into deep hole boring then.
@@1pcfred Woodcraft offers Brad Drill sets in Imperial sets from 1/16" to 1/2" in 1/64 increments, however the 1/8" size is the smallest true brad point. They don't say on the website what the 1/16' - 7/64' sizes have for a point. They also have a metric set from 1 mm to 13 mm in 0.5 mm increments. Again, the 3 mm is the smallest true brad point.
@@larryvergon6740 I don't know what the smallest brad point is in my set. None of them are easy to sharpen. I have no problem whatsoever sharpening conical twist drill bits though. I've had lots of practice.
How about using a router to cut these slots?
Great question Mitch. The short answer is, I don't know how. I did google that question before I started. But I just could figure out how route the curve with a complicated fixture. Also I would need a 1/4 inch bit that was about 1 1/2 inches long. That made me nervous I guess.
@@woodshopnerdery A shallow cut only to establish a clean outside line, following a plywood template.
@@woodshopnerdery with a router you cut in steps. Going a bit deeper with each pass. You wouldn't go the full inch and a half all in one go. That'd be a tad too intense. If it was me I'd use a template too. If you're going to buy a router and want it to be one and done then go for the gusto and get a 1/2" collet plunge router. It's the most versatile router type. They're also the most expensive. Funny how that works. But you can do more with them compared to the cheaper 1/4" collet twist bodies. It'd be the better tool for what I'm seeing needs to be done here. Although there are jobs where a trim router is better. Big 1/2" plunge routers are big.
Tom, are you in the Chicago area? I live in Chicago half the year.
Mike, yes I live in the Southwest suburbs.
In Wicker Park, myself. Right now.
Rasp, your overthinking !
Great suggestion, I've used rasps throughout the project.
Great video Tom. I'm glad that I'm not the only one who ends up with problems and has to do some additional learning to solve them. Your videos help me a lot. In this case, the ShopSmith Strip sander would go a long way to solve the problem that you resolved with cotter keys on your jig saw. It does a great job sanding inside cuts. Here's a link to Scott Markwood's video describing this slick little machine. th-cam.com/video/wG7dr6IDv44/w-d-xo.html..
Dennis, I definitely have my eye out for a strip sander. On will come up eventually for me in my area.
Breath young paragon…
man, nice video here. You surprised me with the little drill holes. didn't know that it would be so far off on hard wood. Then again I don't use hardwood too much. I like engineering type projects with plywood. Maybe in the future I'll want to tackle something with more hardwood, despite the clear problems. As I watched further I see you used a hand drill? no way man you need a guide at least.
So true about the guide Michael, thanks.
forget cotter pins to hold. Look at using the wire used on binder clips.
Wow, great idea! I didn't even think of binder clips. Thanks.
What are binder clips?