Thanks for demonstrating the PROPER method for bleeding the inner cartridge. Everyone else just fills it to 150mm below the top cap, slams the base valve assembly in and cycles the damper rod. They wrongly think hearing a little air escape and seeing the rod extend on its own means all air is out of the chamber. That method will leave a lot of air still in the chamber! The method you showed, while a lit messier, is the only way to bleed it properly. I usually take a bit more time and work even slower to ensure all air is removed.
Thank you for the comment on this. I’ve tried to explain this many times and you just did it for me. I’ve done tons of forks in my day and this is the only correct way I feel to accomplish this. Thanks again man, and thanks for the view!
I've watched a few of your videos and I LOVE you take your time on the steps. I have watched many vids on here and well the guys clearly have done it before as they breeze through the steps. What's also nice you list the tools you will need as well so it easy to build a shopping list for your project. Great job!
Heck yes, thanks for the positive my guy! I really appreciate it more than you know. Glad to help and so happy you’re making the repairs happen! Keep after it!!!!
Thanks for the comment Lance, yeah I have to back off on the torque specs, there is always someone who either knows better or says I’m wrong. So either check the manual, or snug it up lol
This was an excellent video. Thank you for going into detail with all of the steps and doing a thorough walk-through. I have been hesitant to do seals on my own for my '14 yz250f but this video gave me a good boost of confidence to give it a shot! I also enjoyed your small insights of knowledge into the fit and function of each component. As a mechanical engineering student I am always intrigued by the way all of the little things work together.
Thank you, it takes tons of time and patience to make these videos and not forget to include everything. These comments help so much with motivation to keep going. Thanks man and take care, have a great new year and thanks for the support!
I actually have an axle specifically for that purpose, I just never remember to use it. I shoulda said that tip in the video. Thanks for the comment and suggestion!
Ever take a fork apart and go bleed before dumping oil and bleed lot extra oil out the inner chamber? Inner chamber not leak any oil out aslong as not compressed? With just the inner chamber if tip over can leak little out of the bleed holes.
Thanks for the great description of the process. Was considering sending mine back to Factory Connection for service (had them do the revalve a while back) but after seeing this I will go for it myself.
@@drc42x I don’t have one on the rear, but if you get on RaceTech website, and follow it, it’s not bad at all. Done mine a few time and it’s pretty cut and dry.
Hello, Daniel. Thank you so much for this video. It really helped me on the whole internals. My spring seats are black and were backwards when started to do the seals. Have you ever seen that when you pulled forks apart?
@@miraclelawnservice2 yes I have, seen many bad fork jobs unfortunately. Thanks for the kind words and I’m pumped you accomplished your goal! Thanks for watching and enjoy your leak free seals! 😃
@DanMX2112 the crazy thing about it was I actually rode with the forks that way for like 2 years. Had recently did a top end on the bike and still not running correctly.
Great video!! I'll use to guide me through my fork rebuild. 2019 yz125 Do you know if M9 suspension has the same internals as the KYB? Also a rear shock video guide. will be really awesome !
Very best KYB fork rebuild,Service, etc. Subscribed and will be hitting you up for sure when I'm into mine! Thank you for taking the time to make such a great detailed video!!
TBT Racing shows how to drill out the piston. I have had them set up my forks and shocks with their "secret" valve stacks and man is my stuff set up correctly. They do many Pro riders in the Phoenix and LA area's. ALSO..Pro tip...use your wheel axle as a lever in the fork lug to help push the leg down so the inner tube protrudes easier.
Hello! Very useful video thanks! At 18:15, what is the function of this metal part? Is it a big problem if I installed itt upside down? As You show first :) should I dissasembly again and turn back, or I can use it safe as it is? Thanks a lot! Daniel
Hey Daniel, sorry I didn’t respond sooner. The spacer, or washer, must be with the tabs facing upwards. This is intentional so that the bushing does not get pinched in between the spacer and the tube. I’ll post the directions stated from the service manual. “Install the oil seal washer with its projections facing upwards” Hope this clarifies. Thanks again man!
Great video, but in my owners manual it says to put the oil seal on with the numbered side toward the lug. Had to pull my seal back off without tearing it, flip it, and put it back on.
Sorry you had this issue, it can be hard to determine which side is which. I’ll assure you the video is correct in the placement, and not all oil seals are the same. I wouldn’t ever pay attention to numbers, as I’ve seen things like piston rings, seals, bearings etc. placed incorrectly for this reason. Always refer to the manual, and the manual will always refer to OEM genuine parts. Aftermarket is a different story! Hope this help! Thanks for watching Caden!
@Daniel Tucker yeah this is with the Yamaha OEM parts, but I also have a different generation KYB fork so that must be where the issue was. Either way, this video got me through the first leaky seal swap for me and I'll be using it again when I need to rebuild the inner chamber as well! Thanks man!
Hi mate, might sound like a really daft question but once you've checked your clicker turns, do you then turn the clicker screw all the way to the left or right?
@@DanMX2112 thanks man, I'm a total novice on suspension maintenance but I've ordered all the tools and I think I'm ready to give it a go this weekend thanks for the reply and of course the mint video 🤟🏻
my forks whoopt one of the clickers dont stop and i think they leak from the bottom and top i just been sendin it 😂 since 2019 crazy i cant wait to see what it look like in there hopefully amazon got a set
My damper cartridge returns very slowly after I bleed it I let it sit and when I come back to it it’s sank a couple inches Sonia it doesn’t return to full extension, I’ve repeated the process like 3 times
Two things.... why didn't you measure the inner cartridge oil height? Second, wouldn't you want the bleeder screw in the the compression assembly before bleeding inner cartridge?
Great questions and I hope I can make this clear for you. The bleed screw is used to bleed the air pressure buildup from the fork cartridge, and because it is oring sealed on the inner cartridge, and it bleeds over into the outer cartridge, the bleed screw has no effect on the bleeding process. As for oil height, Yamaha actually states a capacity, I don’t know it but I do know this, that is a baseline to start with. After bleeding the air the manual actually tells you to replenish or refill the oil back up to near the overflow holes, then install the inner cartridge, so, the amount is not relevant if you just fill is up past the recommended amount. Hope this helps, and makes sense 😂
Hey man can I get your opinion? I have race tech springs going in which measure 492mm. The springs which came out, and that I have been lead to believe are stock springs, measure more like 498mm. I know I need to use spacers to make up the difference between the two to make the RT springs closer to the stock measurement, HOWEVER the manual says the free spring length should be 492mm, implying I would not need spacers. How could that be if the stock springs are 498mm? Would you run the RT springs with or without the spacers?
I see, I would run the spacers, regardless. What you don’t want is the spring bouncing around in the tube, and 6mm is not going to change much as far as how the suspension acts. So as Race Tech stated, run the spacers and don’t look back. As for you 498 stock springs, they may be longer than the 492, but the ver time will loose free length, at which 492 is the minimum.
@@DanMX2112 Sweet man thanks so much. I checked preload without spacers and with spacers. With spacers it was up to the specs RT recommends and also the same total length as the spring that I took out, so all is good now. Im curious why that spring was so long, wonder if Factory Connection sells longer springs to give the preload whereas RT just supplies washers
@@DanMX2112 the problem I ran into was I tested cycling the piston after I put the damper adjusting rod in and I really pushed on it super hard. Just forgot, there's a lot of steps and I had to take it back apart and test it (again) and forgot to take the damper adjuster rod out on second disassembly.
I don’t see how it can, although zeta says the open allows for a softer feel. I haven’t noticed this and honestly can’t figure out how it would affect that.
Is it normal for the cartridge spring to be loose in the cartridge? I was thinking my old cartridge springs were wore out and I needed softer ones, but they’re the same exact length. Even with the new springs installed it’s like it’s not long enough or it needs a preload. This is for Showa twin chambers.
I they shouldn’t, I would recommend looking up the free length and measuring them, then for sure you know. There is also a washer that is at the end of the spring.
@@DanMX2112 The cartridge springs I ordered from race tech measured the exact length 102 mm as my old ones. I was trying to just get softer ones in general for Enduro riding but the springs are super loose. Even when you put the cartridge into the forks and shake the fork, you can hear the spring loose.
And yes, I have the washer that goes in the cartridge. It’s kind of counter sunk into the housing part not sure the name. It seems like there’s at least 6 or 7 mm of play between the top of the fork cap down to the bottom housing that holds the pressure spring. So I can basically move it around freely which doesn’t seem right. I had a suspension shop tell me it was normal but I can’t be right. Do you have any suggestions? Do people ever use a preload which I don’t know why you would need it it just seems like the spring length would be enough.
@@eastwood111 hmmm I’m not positive, but I would reach out to Applied Technology and give them a shout. They are good and can probably help solve your issue more than I can. It doesn’t seem right, but then again without seeing it and going together with it idk how you can have 6-7 mm gaps. Give them a shout, located in Castle Rock Colorado.
Do you have any idea why the rod is getting sucked back in for me? I had one of the inner cart., push the rod out like you showed, but after a while I can see oil leaking out and hear air getting sucked in. Is there a faulty seal somewhere? I did not change the stock pistons out to the zeta pistons, i'm thinking the the o-rings on that is worn.
Could be that the seals are wore, the orings. Without a good it can for sure have that symptom. I would go ahead and replace them, then try the bleed process again and that should do it.
I went ahead and just ordered the Zeta Pistons, heard that it could be the inner o-rings on the piston or the two outer ones. The outer ones usually don't go bad though I also heard. Will report back to see if it's fixed. Thanks! @@DanMX2112
If you keep pumping the inner cartridge, does oil leak out of the two bleed holes after you have it assembled? How does it come out in the first place? I'm assuming oil just gets past the seals when under high pressure, but not under normal pressure?@@DanMX2112
@thomaspham8852 yes it will and that is normal. Think of it as an overflow. When strikes to the max, it pushes that inner base valve assembly up so high oil passes by and out the holes. Hope that makes sense. Follow my video and it will work out!
Just fill the inner forks up to the bleeder holes. Not sure how much, but a Liter can service both inner chambers. The outer chambers take 300-350cc's. 2 liters should do the trick.
No sir, there should not be rattling. Now, what can cause rattling would be wore out springs (free length is to short) or low oil which would allow the spring to bounce around in the tube. Is the rattling happening when you jar the fork up and down, or side to side?
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for demonstrating the PROPER method for bleeding the inner cartridge. Everyone else just fills it to 150mm below the top cap, slams the base valve assembly in and cycles the damper rod. They wrongly think hearing a little air escape and seeing the rod extend on its own means all air is out of the chamber. That method will leave a lot of air still in the chamber! The method you showed, while a lit messier, is the only way to bleed it properly. I usually take a bit more time and work even slower to ensure all air is removed.
Thank you for the comment on this. I’ve tried to explain this many times and you just did it for me. I’ve done tons of forks in my day and this is the only correct way I feel to accomplish this. Thanks again man, and thanks for the view!
I like the way you have all of the fancy tools sitting on the bench, but showed how to do it without them.
Most people want to know how to do it without so I try to cater to both.
Yep 100% that's why I just became a full-time subscriber
So awesome, thank you!
I've watched a few of your videos and I LOVE you take your time on the steps. I have watched many vids on here and well the guys clearly have done it before as they breeze through the steps. What's also nice you list the tools you will need as well so it easy to build a shopping list for your project. Great job!
Heck yes, thanks for the positive my guy! I really appreciate it more than you know. Glad to help and so happy you’re making the repairs happen! Keep after it!!!!
Best video on the subject!
@@gasgasgas thanks brother, I appreciate you!
Nice video, very detailed thank you.
Every torque setting is "snug it up", that's how I roll too
Thanks for the comment Lance, yeah I have to back off on the torque specs, there is always someone who either knows better or says I’m wrong. So either check the manual, or snug it up lol
This was an excellent video. Thank you for going into detail with all of the steps and doing a thorough walk-through. I have been hesitant to do seals on my own for my '14 yz250f but this video gave me a good boost of confidence to give it a shot!
I also enjoyed your small insights of knowledge into the fit and function of each component. As a mechanical engineering student I am always intrigued by the way all of the little things work together.
Thank you, it takes tons of time and patience to make these videos and not forget to include everything. These comments help so much with motivation to keep going. Thanks man and take care, have a great new year and thanks for the support!
Yeah I bought tusk seals once ... lasted about 5 hours. Great video thanks !!!
Some things are not worth buying. Low end seals are one of them,
put axle or a bar in fork lug to push down on spring - makes it easy
I actually have an axle specifically for that purpose, I just never remember to use it. I shoulda said that tip in the video. Thanks for the comment and suggestion!
Thanks done everything on your video and the forks feel amazing everything explained for us simpletons 😂top man 😎
thanks man, i appreciate the love. Enjoy the bike and the money saved!
Ever take a fork apart and go bleed before dumping oil and bleed lot extra oil out the inner chamber? Inner chamber not leak any oil out aslong as not compressed? With just the inner chamber if tip over can leak little out of the bleed holes.
This is the best video for the basic maintenance of these forks. Thank you.
Thank man, that means so much!
Thanks for the great description of the process. Was considering sending mine back to Factory Connection for service (had them do the revalve a while back) but after seeing this I will go for it myself.
Oh ya, you’ve got this for sure! Everything always seems harder than it really is. It’s not rocket science, just suspension lol
@@DanMX2112 Thanks, BTW any chance of doing a similar video on the rear shock also?
@@drc42x I don’t have one on the rear, but if you get on RaceTech website, and follow it, it’s not bad at all. Done mine a few time and it’s pretty cut and dry.
Hello, Daniel. Thank you so much for this video. It really helped me on the whole internals. My spring seats are black and were backwards when started to do the seals. Have you ever seen that when you pulled forks apart?
@@miraclelawnservice2 yes I have, seen many bad fork jobs unfortunately. Thanks for the kind words and I’m pumped you accomplished your goal! Thanks for watching and enjoy your leak free seals! 😃
@DanMX2112 the crazy thing about it was I actually rode with the forks that way for like 2 years. Had recently did a top end on the bike and still not running correctly.
Great video!! I'll use to guide me through my fork rebuild. 2019 yz125
Do you know if M9 suspension has the same internals as the KYB?
Also a rear shock video guide. will be really awesome !
Very best KYB fork rebuild,Service, etc. Subscribed and will be hitting you up for sure when I'm into mine! Thank you for taking the time to make such a great detailed video!!
Thank you sir, I love making the videos and hopefully everyone benefits. I appreciate the love! Take care!
@Daniel Tucker u certainly did. Going to keep rewatching until and during my service
TBT Racing shows how to drill out the piston. I have had them set up my forks and shocks with their "secret" valve stacks and man is my stuff set up correctly. They do many Pro riders in the Phoenix and LA area's. ALSO..Pro tip...use your wheel axle as a lever in the fork lug to help push the leg down so the inner tube protrudes easier.
I’ve seen their stuff online before and looks very good at what they do. Good to here and yes, the drill method is awesome and so easy to do!
Hello!
Very useful video thanks! At 18:15, what is the function of this metal part? Is it a big problem if I installed itt upside down? As You show first :) should I dissasembly again and turn back, or I can use it safe as it is?
Thanks a lot!
Daniel
In other videos they do the way You did first:
th-cam.com/video/u2WCVXpK_vI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=T9ZQo94uPNhfIxmk
I also think that is more senseful.
Hey Daniel, sorry I didn’t respond sooner. The spacer, or washer, must be with the tabs facing upwards. This is intentional so that the bushing does not get pinched in between the spacer and the tube. I’ll post the directions stated from the service manual.
“Install the oil seal washer with its projections facing upwards”
Hope this clarifies. Thanks again man!
Do you need inner tube to be open up (cartridge) ? Can i just replace the oil inside the fork and replace dust seals?
You can do the outer chamber only, no problem.
Excellent video solid on the detail
Great video, but in my owners manual it says to put the oil seal on with the numbered side toward the lug. Had to pull my seal back off without tearing it, flip it, and put it back on.
Sorry you had this issue, it can be hard to determine which side is which. I’ll assure you the video is correct in the placement, and not all oil seals are the same. I wouldn’t ever pay attention to numbers, as I’ve seen things like piston rings, seals, bearings etc. placed incorrectly for this reason. Always refer to the manual, and the manual will always refer to OEM genuine parts. Aftermarket is a different story! Hope this help! Thanks for watching Caden!
@Daniel Tucker yeah this is with the Yamaha OEM parts, but I also have a different generation KYB fork so that must be where the issue was. Either way, this video got me through the first leaky seal swap for me and I'll be using it again when I need to rebuild the inner chamber as well! Thanks man!
Awesome man, and yes your right, the newer forks are different in how the seals are made! Good luck on the inner chamber!
Hi mate, might sound like a really daft question but once you've checked your clicker turns, do you then turn the clicker screw all the way to the left or right?
Counterclockwise, or left. That way the valve is wide open for bleeding. Good call and never a dumbbbb question. Thanks for watching!
@@DanMX2112 thanks man, I'm a total novice on suspension maintenance but I've ordered all the tools and I think I'm ready to give it a go this weekend thanks for the reply and of course the mint video 🤟🏻
Really nice, detailed video. Thanks for the walkthrough.
Thank you, and your welcome, glad you learned from it. Thanks for watching !
my forks whoopt one of the clickers dont stop and i think they leak from the bottom and top i just been sendin it 😂 since 2019 crazy i cant wait to see what it look like in there hopefully amazon got a set
That’s crazy, hope it not terrible bad. Good luck man!
@@DanMX2112 i hope so 2 they look eezy to do
It’s not bad at all!
My damper cartridge returns very slowly after I bleed it I let it sit and when I come back to it it’s sank a couple inches Sonia it doesn’t return to full extension, I’ve repeated the process like 3 times
You may have a wire bushing causing the oil to seep by. Not sure.
Mine have always done the same thing. Instead of drilling holes in my free pistons, I removed the lower o-ring. Supposed to have the same effect.
That should work! Does the free piston bounce around at all?
@@DanMX2112 🤷🏼♂️ Travis (the owner of TBT who has the video about drilling the free pistons) told me to do it. Haha
That’s funny, I guess we learn as we go!
Hi mate,thanks for the video,2019 sherco se250factory would be the same one right?
I think so, they run KYB so it should be the same!
Two things.... why didn't you measure the inner cartridge oil height? Second, wouldn't you want the bleeder screw in the the compression assembly before bleeding inner cartridge?
Great questions and I hope I can make this clear for you. The bleed screw is used to bleed the air pressure buildup from the fork cartridge, and because it is oring sealed on the inner cartridge, and it bleeds over into the outer cartridge, the bleed screw has no effect on the bleeding process. As for oil height, Yamaha actually states a capacity, I don’t know it but I do know this, that is a baseline to start with. After bleeding the air the manual actually tells you to replenish or refill the oil back up to near the overflow holes, then install the inner cartridge, so, the amount is not relevant if you just fill is up past the recommended amount. Hope this helps, and makes sense 😂
Hey man can I get your opinion?
I have race tech springs going in which measure 492mm. The springs which came out, and that I have been lead to believe are stock springs, measure more like 498mm.
I know I need to use spacers to make up the difference between the two to make the RT springs closer to the stock measurement, HOWEVER the manual says the free spring length should be 492mm, implying I would not need spacers. How could that be if the stock springs are 498mm?
Would you run the RT springs with or without the spacers?
I see, I would run the spacers, regardless. What you don’t want is the spring bouncing around in the tube, and 6mm is not going to change much as far as how the suspension acts. So as Race Tech stated, run the spacers and don’t look back. As for you 498 stock springs, they may be longer than the 492, but the ver time will loose free length, at which 492 is the minimum.
@@DanMX2112 Sweet man thanks so much. I checked preload without spacers and with spacers. With spacers it was up to the specs RT recommends and also the same total length as the spring that I took out, so all is good now.
Im curious why that spring was so long, wonder if Factory Connection sells longer springs to give the preload whereas RT just supplies washers
Hi thanks for vid. What size are the cap tools
They are for the 48 mm KYB forks, should only be one size for those specific forks. Idk the actually measurement though sorry.
Have you done any 24 kyb yz forks?
Not yet, but Yamaha and KYB have not changed much on that suspension.
Is it normal for racetech springs to make a rubbing sound? I changed my springs recently and they sound like they rub
No they shouldn’t rub anymore than a stock setup. I would contact them and make sure the springs and washer count is correct.
Great video… thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching! I appreciate it!
How do you replace de seal of the dampener rod?? Mine is leaking in it, there seem to be a seal but how to replace it Idon't know..?
Took mine apart and one of the pistons blew up… where should I order the zeta and what are the specs?
I ordered from Rocky Mountain ATVMC. Plug in your year and it will lead you there. Good call to go zeta!
Took apart my forks on a used bike.. thankfully the free piston was drilled out and done right already 😂
Nice work! That’s a good sign they had probably been maintained well!
Having trouble getting the lock nut right so I can tighten the adjuster. Tips?
210cc in the cartridge then put the free piston in, what's this bleeding stuff?
It will always bleed the remainder once compressed. But, if you don’t cycle the piston, how do you know it’s working?
@@DanMX2112 the problem I ran into was I tested cycling the piston after I put the damper adjusting rod in and I really pushed on it super hard. Just forgot, there's a lot of steps and I had to take it back apart and test it (again) and forgot to take the damper adjuster rod out on second disassembly.
Is it the same oil that you use for the shock?
No I use Maxima shock fluid, 3 weight.
Is it any change in performance of using the more open Zeta free piston vs the regular one.
Debating which one I should get for my suspension.
I don’t see how it can, although zeta says the open allows for a softer feel. I haven’t noticed this and honestly can’t figure out how it would affect that.
Is it normal for the cartridge spring to be loose in the cartridge? I was thinking my old cartridge springs were wore out and I needed softer ones, but they’re the same exact length. Even with the new springs installed it’s like it’s not long enough or it needs a preload. This is for Showa twin chambers.
I they shouldn’t, I would recommend looking up the free length and measuring them, then for sure you know. There is also a washer that is at the end of the spring.
@@DanMX2112
The cartridge springs I ordered from race tech measured the exact length 102 mm as my old ones. I was trying to just get softer ones in general for Enduro riding but the springs are super loose. Even when you put the cartridge into the forks and shake the fork, you can hear the spring loose.
And yes, I have the washer that goes in the cartridge. It’s kind of counter sunk into the housing part not sure the name. It seems like there’s at least 6 or 7 mm of play between the top of the fork cap down to the bottom housing that holds the pressure spring. So I can basically move it around freely which doesn’t seem right. I had a suspension shop tell me it was normal but I can’t be right. Do you have any suggestions? Do people ever use a preload which I don’t know why you would need it it just seems like the spring length would be enough.
@@eastwood111 hmmm I’m not positive, but I would reach out to Applied Technology and give them a shout. They are good and can probably help solve your issue more than I can. It doesn’t seem right, but then again without seeing it and going together with it idk how you can have 6-7 mm gaps. Give them a shout, located in Castle Rock Colorado.
@@eastwood111 they are a racetech dealer also, they use racetech springs and valves.
36:10 Can I Get A Huh Yeah?!
Oh snap!!!
great video man!
Thank you sir!
Do you have any idea why the rod is getting sucked back in for me? I had one of the inner cart., push the rod out like you showed, but after a while I can see oil leaking out and hear air getting sucked in. Is there a faulty seal somewhere? I did not change the stock pistons out to the zeta pistons, i'm thinking the the o-rings on that is worn.
Could be that the seals are wore, the orings. Without a good it can for sure have that symptom. I would go ahead and replace them, then try the bleed process again and that should do it.
I went ahead and just ordered the Zeta Pistons, heard that it could be the inner o-rings on the piston or the two outer ones. The outer ones usually don't go bad though I also heard. Will report back to see if it's fixed. Thanks! @@DanMX2112
You bet dude, you got this!
If you keep pumping the inner cartridge, does oil leak out of the two bleed holes after you have it assembled? How does it come out in the first place? I'm assuming oil just gets past the seals when under high pressure, but not under normal pressure?@@DanMX2112
@thomaspham8852 yes it will and that is normal. Think of it as an overflow. When strikes to the max, it pushes that inner base valve assembly up so high oil passes by and out the holes. Hope that makes sense. Follow my video and it will work out!
How much oil do I need to pour into the cartridge?
I need 2 liters fork oil for this service?
Check you manual to make sure.
Just fill the inner forks up to the bleeder holes. Not sure how much, but a Liter can service both inner chambers. The outer chambers take 300-350cc's.
2 liters should do the trick.
What's a dampenener is that like a damper?
Tomato tamato lol same difference!
@@DanMX2112 great video!
thank you so much!:)
Thanks for watching!!!
Ive just rebuild mine and notice theres a rattling noise when i shake the fork is that normal?
No sir, there should not be rattling. Now, what can cause rattling would be wore out springs (free length is to short) or low oil which would allow the spring to bounce around in the tube. Is the rattling happening when you jar the fork up and down, or side to side?
Side to side
I would pull them apart. That’s not good!
No indicas el grado del aceite
Star
Stretch made this video bruh. You explained it awfully.
Right, thankful for guys like you to help out!