Just a DIYer tip for people watching, you can make similar fork holding tools that go in the vice out of 2x4s, find the appropriate diameter hole saws (slightly smaller than what you're trying to hold), drill hole into 2x4, then cut the 2x4 in half right through the circle you just drilled. It doesn't fit perfectly like these professional tools in the video but the wood is soft and it grips just fine so you can get the job done.
What an absolute craftsman and I would trust this guy do anything to my bike and not have a problem dropping it off then picking it up. I wish I could say that about other places but there just aren't that many out there. I just watched another repair shop do a set of forks, everything was dirty grimy and nothing in order. Craftsman type work is super special and it does make a huge difference. Thanks for the video, now I know who my forks are going to! What an inspiration to set up your shop correctly as well. This guy is super special.
You are the only one saying to press the rod to nut+nail, no one else mentions that...and thats the golden info I was searching as mine weren't rebounding completely by listening to other "mechanics".
Very nice and clean work. Having the right tools is essential, or you can damage the forks. Very soft materials. For the non-cartridge fork type a proper device to keep the spring compressed really helps to disassemble and re-assemble the fork cap on the damping rod. That was my biggest struggle when I did my 1st set of forks.
Gents, if you dont have a soft clamp fpr your cartridge, heres a trick ive always used when im in a bind. Just leave the fork on the bike, loosen the upper crown bolts, and use the adapters to loosen off the compression cartridge, and top cap so you can loosen it with the leg in your hand. And, when done, use the lower crown to tighten it all down again.
Since more than a decade I do my suspension myself to install the revalves and ideas that I create from theory and specific calculations, because I love that. I do not really enjoy all the cleaning and the oil. As you said - think, take your time, do it right, get proper tools. If there is no revalve or other mod and time is precious I give the parts to my suspension shop(s) that I trust. Open cartridge forks are by far less tricky and good to start with DIY.
Great video, extremely helpful. A much cheaper alternative that exponentially less harmful to hexane based cleaners( brakekleen) is white mineral spirits. It also has the added benefits of being easier on plastics and rubber components.
@@johnnyblue4799 yes and no, it's more effective on oils and grease but not as good on hardened deposits. Another issue with brake clean or any other chlorinated cleaners is the risk of en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement. In the end most solvents just soften the dirt, mechanical scrubbing removes it. As he said in the first video good brushes and lint free cloths make a huge difference.
Hey Kyle, great video. I will be rewatching when it’s time for a full service. However I’ve had my seals leak a couple times and used a seal doctor to clean them out. I want to replace the lost oil without completely rebuilding. Is there a way to set oil level by measuring from the top like in an open cartridge fork?
Is it normal to have freeplay in the lower fork tubes when fully extended? I took the wheel off and grab the fork tubes at were the axle goes and can move it back and forth and side to side maybe a mm or two of freeplay. Seals are good no oil leak
Great! The best how to video. 👌 I have experimented and taken out the freeplay in the ICS with shims and then if you push the rod all the way in when bleeding the cartridge it rebounds all the way. I'll try your method next time. What solvent do you use?
Good day to you sir! First of all, great vid, very professional! My questionee is, I have a KYB forks on my RIEJU MR 300 PRO (ENDURO) bike, the bike is new, I rode a couple of hours on it and notice the forks are extra stiff for beginner like me. Do you have any suggestion how to make it softer? Compression and Rebound valve are fully out. What is the next step, replace the oil whit less viscosity like 2.5 or the valves and spring need to be replaced?
Just serviced my forks with these videos and I appreciate the sharing of knowledge. However, after reassembly, the forks expand and hit the “stops” at full extension. Once mounted on the bike, I can bounce the bike to lift the front wheel off the ground and the forks extend to smack the stops. The rebound setting is right in the middle, so there should be some rebound. And I’m fairly confident that the cartridge didn’t have air after bleeding it just like the video showed. Any ideas why that would be?
Could I get your advice please?. I’m in the middle of rebuilding my forks and when I get up to putting the base valve in the inner chamber and then when I bleed the rebound rod when I let go of the rod it compresses back up and doesn’t rebound, but on the other chamber it all went together nice and everything works as it should. So not what todo 🤦🏼
Common misconception is that you can sweat or evaporate the moisture out of metals. You can't because the metal doesn't have any moisture in it. All of the moisture is coming from burning of the fossil fuels and condensing on the surface. Nice to see the care he puts into it. No crescent wrenches, vise grips or pliers.
the fork is not well setup. hte is an error in the assembly. minut 17:17 the alignement of the end and the nut should be measured, basically the threads lenght is circa 11mm. ! check it in the manual !
Wait... do you not cut out the actual decal of the sticker? You just put the whole thing on? I cut my KYB sticker out and so does the dealer in town. Legit confused
Really appreciate you making this video but it really is hard to navigate through the 90% bs with the 10% hands on how to do. Frustrating as hell when you are trying to figure out what is the next step or how to do something.
Just a DIYer tip for people watching, you can make similar fork holding tools that go in the vice out of 2x4s, find the appropriate diameter hole saws (slightly smaller than what you're trying to hold), drill hole into 2x4, then cut the 2x4 in half right through the circle you just drilled. It doesn't fit perfectly like these professional tools in the video but the wood is soft and it grips just fine so you can get the job done.
What an absolute craftsman and I would trust this guy do anything to my bike and not have a problem dropping it off then picking it up. I wish I could say that about other places but there just aren't that many out there. I just watched another repair shop do a set of forks, everything was dirty grimy and nothing in order. Craftsman type work is super special and it does make a huge difference. Thanks for the video, now I know who my forks are going to! What an inspiration to set up your shop correctly as well. This guy is super special.
You are the only one saying to press the rod to nut+nail, no one else mentions that...and thats the golden info I was searching as mine weren't rebounding completely by listening to other "mechanics".
Very nice and clean work. Having the right tools is essential, or you can damage the forks. Very soft materials. For the non-cartridge fork type a proper device to keep the spring compressed really helps to disassemble and re-assemble the fork cap on the damping rod. That was my biggest struggle when I did my 1st set of forks.
Gents, if you dont have a soft clamp fpr your cartridge, heres a trick ive always used when im in a bind. Just leave the fork on the bike, loosen the upper crown bolts, and use the adapters to loosen off the compression cartridge, and top cap so you can loosen it with the leg in your hand. And, when done, use the lower crown to tighten it all down again.
Can you do a service vid on the shock also?
Since more than a decade I do my suspension myself to install the revalves and ideas that I create from theory and specific calculations, because I love that.
I do not really enjoy all the cleaning and the oil. As you said - think, take your time, do it right, get proper tools.
If there is no revalve or other mod and time is precious I give the parts to my suspension shop(s) that I trust. Open cartridge forks are by far less tricky and good to start with DIY.
awesome videos guys!
I ovalized an inner cartridge once.. noticed that the rod was binding.. managed to get it back to round thankfully though.
This has convinced me once again that I'm just going to let someone else do this job.
Same hea
Looks harder than it is.
It’s really not hard, I swapped fork tubes on a set of forks my first time ever and took less than an hour.
Davvero molto bravo ,grande manualita'. e attrezzatura
I need those tube brushes. Where on Amazon are they ?
Used top triple clamp no vice needed
Great video, extremely helpful. A much cheaper alternative that exponentially less harmful to hexane based cleaners( brakekleen) is white mineral spirits. It also has the added benefits of being easier on plastics and rubber components.
Does it clean as well as hexane?
@@johnnyblue4799 yes and no, it's more effective on oils and grease but not as good on hardened deposits. Another issue with brake clean or any other chlorinated cleaners is the risk of en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement. In the end most solvents just soften the dirt, mechanical scrubbing removes it. As he said in the first video good brushes and lint free cloths make a huge difference.
@@matthewcribb651 Thanks. Useful info that link.
Hey Kyle, great video. I will be rewatching when it’s time for a full service. However I’ve had my seals leak a couple times and used a seal doctor to clean them out. I want to replace the lost oil without completely rebuilding. Is there a way to set oil level by measuring from the top like in an open cartridge fork?
Nice video you should do the shock. He does it really slow and clean, this is how you work on suspensions 👍🍻
Awesome vids learned a lot not sure there is a better video for this. 👍🏼🤘🏼
Is it normal to have freeplay in the lower fork tubes when fully extended? I took the wheel off and grab the fork tubes at were the axle goes and can move it back and forth and side to side maybe a mm or two of freeplay. Seals are good no oil leak
Awesome content Kyle
Great! The best how to video. 👌
I have experimented and taken out the freeplay in the ICS with shims and then if you push the rod all the way in when bleeding the cartridge it rebounds all the way. I'll try your method next time.
What solvent do you use?
Good day to you sir! First of all, great vid, very professional! My questionee is, I have a KYB forks on my RIEJU MR 300 PRO (ENDURO) bike, the bike is new, I rode a couple of hours on it and notice the forks are extra stiff for beginner like me. Do you have any suggestion how to make it softer? Compression and Rebound valve are fully out. What is the next step, replace the oil whit less viscosity like 2.5 or the valves and spring need to be replaced?
Just serviced my forks with these videos and I appreciate the sharing of knowledge.
However, after reassembly, the forks expand and hit the “stops” at full extension. Once mounted on the bike, I can bounce the bike to lift the front wheel off the ground and the forks extend to smack the stops.
The rebound setting is right in the middle, so there should be some rebound. And I’m fairly confident that the cartridge didn’t have air after bleeding it just like the video showed.
Any ideas why that would be?
synthetic oil always used..?
Could I get your advice please?. I’m in the middle of rebuilding my forks and when I get up to putting the base valve in the inner chamber and then when I bleed the rebound rod when I let go of the rod it compresses back up and doesn’t rebound, but on the other chamber it all went together nice and everything works as it should. So not what todo 🤦🏼
How can you replace the inner seal of the damper rod? Mine is leaking on that one.
Common misconception is that you can sweat or evaporate the moisture out of metals. You can't because the metal doesn't have any moisture in it. All of the moisture is coming from burning of the fossil fuels and condensing on the surface.
Nice to see the care he puts into it. No crescent wrenches, vise grips or pliers.
Great video👍
Anyone know where i can get a stroke indicator like the one here? Can’t seem to find a good answer on Google thanks
Most of the ktms have them .. they under $4 on rocky… I believe 48 is the only ones I’ve seen
the fork is not well setup. hte is an error in the assembly. minut 17:17 the alignement of the end and the nut should be measured, basically the threads lenght is circa 11mm. ! check it in the manual !
Loosen these pieces while still in tripe clamps yall.
Thats how you do it at the track, not when you're in the shop...
where’s the giveaway?
Good Job and Fair Price....in Germany cost more😢
Wait... do you not cut out the actual decal of the sticker? You just put the whole thing on? I cut my KYB sticker out and so does the dealer in town. Legit confused
One of the purposes of the sticker is to protect the fork tub from roost.
Loosen the top BEFORE you take it out of the triple clamp.
so 11 clicks out is actually 10 clicks out from zero haha.
Really appreciate you making this video but it really is hard to navigate through the 90% bs with the 10% hands on how to do. Frustrating as hell when you are trying to figure out what is the next step or how to do something.
nice video but nothing special about a 500ml graduated cylinder
RT & GV's??? UGHHHHH
on a service why aren’t you pulling apart shim stacks to inspect and clean? Especially the face shim on mid valve for any deformation?
All good suspension guys are OCD! Need to be.. cleanliness is so important and eye for detail