How to Properly Expose a Video. Like a Real Cinematographer.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2020
- Download your free blueprint to making a movie or film: wolfcrow.com/how-to-make-a-mo...
Grey card:
Amazon: amzn.to/2W10kTq
B&H: bhpho.to/2Suac5W
Light meter:
Amazon: amzn.to/35uhCLE
B&H: bhpho.to/3dir33t
More jokes. Exposure Triangle Explained. th-cam.com/video/0Myv1OLQsCw/w-d-xo.html
MDK MIssion Deliver Kindness on Playstation. Or in the movie Demolition Man: Murder Death Kill.
I don't believe this video will explain anything. You've already burned me.
There is no triangle - you either introduce more or less light with aperture, ND, or lights.
This guy is a pro at talking a lot and saying very little.
Agreed.
@@Mandeologul the fuck.
the constant jokes became very annoying and felt more like wasting time than information or entertainment
When I first got into cameras I was obsessed with learning everything and got caught up on "correct exposure" but quickly realized it was way more complex than just a straight forward answer
It depends on what you're looking at, what you're trying to bring attention too or away from, how bright it's supposed to be for the narrative
Sometimes you let the highlights blow, sometimes you let things fall into the shadows
The more you shoot, the more practice you get, the more you understand when to do what
I think the best way to explain exposure in this instance is to demonstrate how you expose a particular scene and reason why the lighting is deemed to be correct.
I gotta be honest, I don't think this really explained anything.
Yeah this video is bewildering
As I watched more videos of this guy I realized it's all empty calories. There's some general good advise that any beginner should already know topped with a lot of gloating about him being a "real" pro and talk down others who might have a different opinion. Too contradictory and subjective even in damn gear reviews.
yea, basically what i got from this video i that correct exposure isnt what professionals use and that they use whatever exposure best tells the story. of course i have no idea how to then make that exposure consistent(nor is that explained in this video) and so we are basically back at square 1.
I was thinking the method 2 would be false color
I was so confused.
How to properly expose a video
Him : By being good at it
Interesting that there's no mention of false color.
yeah
First you need to know hoe to use false color🤔
I learned lighting using B&W negative film with the axiom “Expose for the shadows / develop for highlights (to fit the dynamic range of the print paper. I shot my first portraits back in 1970s with a pair of shop lights with tungsten bulbs based on the advice in a Kodak “How to” book on portrait lighting which had the following instructions: 1) set aperture for desired DOF; 2) put a Fill light on the camera axis above camera and head of subject so the shadow it created fell straight back and down out of sight and the fill reached everything the lens recorded and set intensity distance so the shadow detail was recorded on the darkest clothing, then; 3) overlap the off axis Key light over the centered “neutral” fill and change it’s power / distance until the white clothing and skin are correctly exposed with detail and separation with the specular reflections from the lights.
Doing the same thing with a digital camera matches the contrast of the scene lighting at the subject distance EXACTLY to the range of the camera sensor with detail above the noise floor recorded in the shadows and detail and separation between smooth white objects and the specular reflections from the lights which provide important perceptual clues to 3D shape on nearly flat white surfaces is retained. From that baseline of “normal” looking detail at whatever distance the Fill and Key lights are set at:
If more Fill is added in step 2, the shadows will look darker and the lighting seem “softer”
If the Fill source is moved further back from the subject it will alter the near-far inverse square fall off and the contrast between highlights exposed by the Key and shadows exposed by the fill will be more gradual making the light seem, perceptually, “softer” because the shadows on the subject will also wind up lighter lighter in tone.
Conversely if less fill that required to record detail in the shadows is used the lighting will look “harder” but the shadows will also be filled with noise because there is no signal being amplified during a analog/digital readout from the sensor.
Moving the Fill light closer to the subject in the foreground will also make the lighting appear “harder” because the fill will fall-off front to back on the subject and space behind more rapidly.
To get dark moody low key lighting without noise you need to overfill the shadows during capture so they are record above the noise threshold and then pull them back down when editing. That is less obvious to those who have only ever used digital and only fill after setting key light for correct highlight rendering.
The better way to ‘see the light” is to start with just the Fill source starting with it on camera axis and above, then moving it elsewhere and observing where it creates shadows the lens sees. Any place where the Fill source creates a shadow will become a black noise filled void in the lighting pattern if the Key light does not hit it. The ideal fill is shadowless (from the POV of camera) fill with enough intensity to record detail on the darkest objects in the scene.
Since getting my first digital camera in 2000 I’ve set lights by using white and black towels draped over a gray card which create three distinct spikes on the histogram, adjusting my fill until detail is seen the the black one and its spike is just inside the left side of the histogram and then adjusting my key light until the non-specular reflections off the white one are 1/3 stop below clipping. The spike from a 12% gray card will fall in the middle. The spike from an 18% will not because 18% was the old ASA film speed / meter calibration standard but it changed to 12% in 1975 when the ISO system was adopted.
If you have white and black content in the scene, a decent set of eyeballs and a digital camera with histogram and instant playback you really don’t need a hand held incident or reflected meter but an incident meter is still useful if using many different lights to balance their strength relative to each other.
In case you are wonderings why Kodak stills makes and sells 18% card because Ansel Adams lobbied Kodak executives not to change the card to the new 12% ISO standard lest in confuse those trying to learn his Zone System.
Great advice! Producers that I've known, who started out as cinematographers, budget at least one extra day of camera rentals to test the main camera.
Thank you!
Totally agree. Test camera and lenses on-site/set if possible. That's where you find the strengths and limits of the gear.
OMG I remember playing MDK when I was a kid! You've unlocked a memory I didn't know I had!!
I forgot who said it but it was told to me by my photography teacher years ago “there is no“correct” exposure just perfect exposure for the scene”
This guy always amazes me. That exposure pun was good!
This reaffirmed that I am an artist. I often think of myself as a technician because I know what the buttons on ny camera do and what the meters are saying. I lose confidence in my film making when those meters do display perfect results. I need to trust my resolve more than the results.
The job of the hand held meter is to measure the amount of light in Lux or Foot-candles falling on the subjects. Its just science, as they say.
The camera man tells the gaffers (lights) and grips (modifiers placement) how much light (in Lux) he wants (also where and when) in the scene and then deals with the camera settings himself. In this way the Director can make the decision on the lighting ratio (light vs. dark areas) ahead of time without knowing anything about the equipment. It's a beautiful thing, unless you are the only person handling everything.
Thank you for the explanation! I found it really helpful
Valuable content as always! Thanks wolfcrow!
Fantastic tutorial! Even for my simple TH-cam vids, this was eye opening. Your examples and metaphors were very clear!
The video’s conclusion just left me really confused tbh. The analogy of the city/friend’s house made no sense to me either.
Basically, just use whatever exposure you think is best for the scene is what I got out of it.
The analogy was saying, middle gray is used to get you around where you need to be, but it's not how you're going to get to exactly the right place. After that, it's up to you to go the rest of the way.
I actually use False Color, i prefer it 'cause it's quicker for me, i can easily see the contrast ratios and if i have to Dim a practical, all without leaving the camera!
Agreed.
Same !
What's False Color? I've seen others mention it.
@@thefrikanih7390 It's a tool that's either in camera or in your monitor, it basically uses different colors for different exposure values. Skintone at 60% is pink, over exposure is red , black is blue etc etc ... It's basically a better waveform, since you can see in the frame itself where values are, instead of deducting it from waveform.
You're so good at explaining what is complex to some. The heart of all pictures, moving or stills, is exposure. Good video.
Thank you!
Clear, informative and humorous - what more could we possibly want!
Thank you so much for all of the videos! I always learn something and laugh a bit also. Well done!
Thanks for this! I didn't realize I needed this video until now
Hey Sareesh, I have to admit that your are amazing the way you pass those information!!!!! Thanks so much to let me see light!!! 😊👊
Wow, this is the video i‘ve been waiting for. Thanks for mixing such valuable content with a pleasing and funny presentation. Subscribed.
Your TH-cam videos are great man ! I’ve really learnt A lot !
You are not usually this funny i love it, great know how AND funny, me like!
Thank you!
Shit was funny. But here is the kicker. For someone like me the comedy help me get it even more. I always enjoy your videos, I learn a lot. But this was a great way to say, get creative. Here is the technical..now you know it, now get creative. LOVE IT. keep it coming
I subscribed right after the exposure fun. That's the kind of cheeky content I like to see lol
Duuuude!!! Do you how much i have tried to Find that game i played when I was a kid. I have searched like an idiot and now completely random in a cinematography video you just drop it... wow!!!! Thanks man
What a great guy. I think I just found the best tutorial channel for me...
Awesome info and video. Detailed, technical and funny. Best channel for videographers on youtube!!
Thank you!
Wow!! As a visual artist, I am overwhelmed with info that is esoteric, but, strangely I get it.
Use the tools. Get your result.
Thanks for the post..
Not even a minute in an I have learned something new already. Awesome! Xx
the quick tips and comedy is very appreciated!
I don’t wanna say don’t use jokes, but they tend to confuse the point you’re making and make the video longer than it needs to be. I’d say put them in between points, so that the viewer gets a break to process the information. A recap at the end would be equally helpful. Plus I’m not sure what the main points of this video were. Middle gray is a starting point, got that.
Amazing content! More of these!
✖️ the best channel. And your writing is improving greatly! Reminds me of Anthony Bordain.
Great advice like always! Much appreciated
Thank you!
Just wanted to say thanks again for all the content you put out. Having fun with your z6 profiles :) cheers
You're welcome!
Haha i can't stop laughing 😂😂😂😆.... The way you explained everything is lol. Most of the things are known but it was just much more better than any other youtuber... Lol... I can stop smiling because of the small jokes!! The begging part and the starting one. Also the cheap life thing!!
Outstanding. Thank you 🙏
Thank you, full explanation about correct exposure
This video is awesome man. Great lesson
Really inspire me, thank u
the punch lines in this Video... I live for it
Have to read between the lines and put them all together for a perfect image. It’s last but it’s the way. I’m learning 🔥🔥🔥
For those like me who might have difficulty in understanding the video and what is said here. After 100 re listens what he meant (I think) is that expose for middle grey and from that point choose your fine tuning method of exposure based on your "taste". This taste of yours is that which then makes you a cinematographer or just a potato. You can just be all day middle gray exposure and be bland and screwing up your exposure for no reason. If you feel you are this person then do a lot of testing. If you feel your taste of exposure sucks then also do a lot of testing and develop that taste.
One major thing kinda glossed over is shutter speed/angle. Most cinematographers pick the shutter speed as two times the fps. So at 23.976 which is typical for natural motion blur, you double it and that's ur shutter speed. Since there is no 1/47.952 shutter speed it's rounded to 1/50 or as an angle it's 180°. Cranking this value will result in little to no motion blur making things feel weird or undercranking (that's a fun little Easter egg) the value will cause way too much motion blur. But EVERYTHING on a camera affects light. It's kinda like that's the camera's job. And the absolute last thing that should be touched is your ISO. Cranking this number because it's dark isn't a great idea. You'll cause a lot of grain. No bueno. If you wanna make it brighter you get lights. Not saying there isn't a time or place with messing with these settings but the majority of the time you don't mess with them. That's for a number of reasons but a main one is consistency between shots. But people believe that cinematography is about camera settings. It is absolutely not. It's learning to cut and shape light. One tip I was given when I was a camera ac was to never accept lights as they were when you enter a place. Use the tools at your disposal to add light where necessary and to take it away where needed.
Excellent content, if people do not understand means they do not know how do pro exposure... love my gray cards.
Very good explaination. Kipidap! 👍🏻
no lie, i did chuckle when you made that joke of your subscription, getting more “exposure”
Your lessons are like brilliant gifts - Thank you 😎😇🎬🕹🎞
Thanks for the info. I like your humour!
You’re welcome!
Just subscribed bro....love from nepal....😊
excellent video. I'm struggling with new camera gear. This video helped. I'd like to know more about how exposure and color are connected and/or not connected.
1:58 Aaah MDK. I know that parachute somewhere. I'm blown away that you remembered the game title.
Subbing for the MDK reference.
How true. Thank you 👍 🎥
Haha, I actually only ever played a demo of MDK on Dreamcast. Good find!
Well this is only the beginning of course. I'd say in a narrative film with actors go for the skin tones. If actors are small in the frame, try to find out what object should be correctly exposed and of course consider consistency within a scene. It gets hard in some typical situations. Say tilting up to the sky from a darker scene or just a pan from shadow to light or vice versa. Well I love film (just a hobby) and with color neg (only Kodak V3 available now) you can let highlights blow quite a bit. Film hates shadows. I guess with sensors you need to protect your highlights. Also I think Ansel Adams' zone system, even though debatable, is an excellent idea. Thanks for reading my ramblings.
I remember when I used to watch your videos and you were dropping heavy knowledge and inspired the viewer. Now I see this video and you downtalk us and have joke after joke that just do not hit 😐 what the heck happened?!
Thanks a lot 😊💞🙏
This is really good
My brain left the building years ago, that's why this video is so helpful! 😆🤣
Wow! From a simple background up to histograms, light meters and technical terms in like one second.
This guy definitely knows how to explain stuff to beginners.
P.S. Putting a like on every flattering comment only shows you insecurity and struggle for appreciation by those around you.
Despite of views plz post valuable information like this
Super simple and very interesting video
I Saw an interview with Dan Lausten where he mentioned that he only uses falsecolors to expose for his scenes. Thats worth looking into
Excelent, as always :-)
Hey Sareesh! Greetings! Sareesh I have a complex situation on which I need some wisdom from you if you don't mind. I recently started shooting cooking videos (mostly Indian cuisine right now) in manual mode on Canon 70D. When I set the shot, everything is balanced well and the EV meter confirms that but as the video moves on (in real-time) and when an onion paste or a freshly made tomato puree is introduced in the pan, it gets washed out (get super bright like a bulb of light). I am assuming this is happing as the light bouncing off is too much. I have tried moving my lights away etc. but it doesn't solve the issue to the tee. I have seen a lot of videos of yours, in this video particular, you mention that I must plan that exposure is going to meet me in a different city (place/settings) and so should I adjust the settings to the latter scenario, is it? The first few minutes where cooking oil, cumin etc. is added can be underexposed and should be fixed in Premiere Pro? Or is there something else I need to do or work on? I can share the footage with you and if you are interested you can make a video on it. You also mentioned in your other video that wedding video makers also face different light conditions and colours and they plan for what is coming as well. Thanks for reading this long post. I would really appreciate your help. Cheers.
Do you have a video on how to properly use a monitor?
very2 inspirational speech. good job dude. :))
Liked and followed IMMEDIATELY after that MDK reference
ENTERTAINING AND EDUCATIONAL ONCE AGAIN... THANKS
You’re welcome!
Hey! Great content - I do have a question which is confusing to me.
Waveforms - when shooting in Slog3 (Sony) and Using the rec709 Lut monitor , do I based the Waveform of the Slog3 or the Lut?
Awesome way of presenting tutorials and you have a good voice. I have a doubt, how do we calculate the distance from the camera to subject for each lens.
About the 3rd pun in, I was like “subscribe”.
Someone teach him about shutter angles and nd filters so he doesn't teach people to overcrank their shutter...😅
Sooooo do whatever I want and I think looks good for my art. I think that’s what was said…. Either way. Expose how you want and do what you want. That’s cinematography.
I'm assuming you're getting lots of question about how to do it right. But, the right way is to feel it's right, and then check with a Waveform Monitor. LOL!!!
My habbit has often to expose less around my histogram and more around my zebra pattern. I have to weigh getting good dynamic range but I don't want excessive noise. Lately unless there is shiny metal or something I use a white surface even a sheet of paper, find where it clips and give myself a couple extra stops of headroom.
Put a card in the camera. I had to watch with my hand over the flashing "no card" message😂
False color is best way to properly expose a scene how you want it when shooting digitally. Everyone do yourself a favor and learn how to use false colors.
Aye man, loving all the funny stuff, but don"t roast me please! 😂
Loving the new "Like, Subscribe and Bell" thing too. 👌🏻
Hahah!!! The video is so great and the jokes are lit....
You explaine very well for me das an germany too.
You talk about Proper exposure / Cinematic Exposure for beginners (aka people with regular simple cameras, like your Sony), no monitors, no scopes, but you fail to say anything about Zebras. A function that almost ALL cameras have nowadays. So this is how I do my exposure when I'm running and gunning:
1. (You only do this once and remember it): Pick you proffered picture profile or profiles and do some tests at home. You should be familiar how dynamic range looks when you bring your tests in the editing software
2. Edit your Zebras. Depending on what you shoot, let's say white skinned people, maybe you want 60 or 65 IRE on the lit side of the face, and maybe you want 45-50 IRE on the shadow side (do these numbers work for you when you bring a human face into the editing room from your tests?). Maybe that's your preferred contrast ration. Maybe that will bring you to that 2 stop Contrast Ratio that you want. Other profiles and other cameras have different dynamic range, so maybe you need other value for your Zebras. That's why you first test at home. Is 1 stop of light = 10% of the zebra (from 50 to 60) or maybe 8% because you have a wider dynamic range?
3. Shoot with 3 Zebras (you cycle between them when setting up the shot, they are usually the last 3 so it's easy to click through them)
- 100%+ To see when you are clipping,
- 60 or 65 (+/- 1 On the settings so you really nail that number) For the Lit side
- 40 or 45 or 50 (+/-1) For the Shadow side (again, depending on how you like your Contrast look)
Whoa, whatever LUT you applied to get that brooding sardonic tone to this video, I want a link. I like using my light meter, because other people think I know what I'm doing.
Do you have videos or advice for someone just starting with a cheap camcorder? I have no budget and purchased a Canon HF R800 and just want to get my feet wet making short films to learn what there is to learn through experience, rather than a 'classroom' setting. That being said, I've found your videos to be focused and informative, but more than a little over my head. I have a small lighting kit, the camcorder a Tascam 8-track recorder (I'm a musician and have more audio equipment and know how to use it better), and want to make something. I've also written in various formats for over 30 years, so I feel confident in the writing and sound recording, but no where else.
The safest and easiest way seems to be ETTR > then decide in post on how you want to expose. Or at least (if it's a very dark scene) get your waveform above 30 IRE or whatever the noisefloor is for your camera and image profile. "Correct" exposure in most LOG gammas will leave you with a bunch of noise in the mids and lows.
Not with good cameras.
Me in video about expose like a cinematographer: Nice, let's watch about waveform, false colors and all these pro stuff
Wolfcrow at 0:35: You don't need to know anything about waveforms or histograms.
This hurts tho
The greatest shot movies in the history of cinema were shot without waveforms or false color but an intrinsic knowledge of exposure and how to measure it and then manipulate it.
Very nice. If you could make a more detailed video about creative exposures, it would be very kind of you.
My preferred option (Fuji XT3 film sims), human eye. Everything else I just find distracting. This could just be me however!
so what it means is that underexposure and overexposure are not wrong?
Conclusion: keep the camera at defaults and light the subject of interest.
Wondering the next video about the ball?
What about exposing for highlights and filling in shadows?
The best.
Respect!
Or learn the zone system and understand how it relates to middle grey and exposing your scene for maximizing the DR
Exposure is my most big mistage. I lose so many client because of my color because of exposure.
Always bring coke to your friends house