I almost skipped over this video, thinking to myself that this is such basic stuff I don’t need to hear this. I’m so glad I resisted my first impression and stopped and listened. What a simple and yet non-condescending way of presenting such an important topic. Even though I’ve been in the industry for more than 40 years I don’t think I can remember having this topic explained in such a simple and at times humorous fashion. Well done!
I have nowhere near as much experience as you but I was the exact same. It's about reminding ourselves of these basics and really grounding this knowledge. It's quite inspiring to hear that someone of your experience is still recapping on this kind of thing Mark! Shows that this is a life long journey that we are all on in honing our craft.
Ugh, you can hear something a thousand times, but one person explaining it in just the right way can totally connect all the dots. Thank you so much! This was a huge help! Subscribed!
Great video. One minor clarification about standard shutter speed: the shutter does open and close each frame (unless it’s at it’s slowest speed then it simply stays open). However, that’s not why the standard is 1/48, because it would still open and close the same number of times if it were 1/96 or 1/8000. Shutter speed is based on the amount of time it’s open during the frame and not the number of times it opens and closes, which in this case is half of the frame time. It’s possible to have a shutter speed at almost any duration - it just can’t be any slower than staying open for the duration of the entire frame, and would dictate not only changes in exposure but also varying degrees of motion blur. Typically, the denominator of the shutter speed fraction is double the frame rate to get the amount of motion blur we are used to (30fps would have a shutter of 1/60, 120fps would have a shutter of 1/240, etc).
@@billythecat I should have clarified that the rule applies more in the lower frame rate range up to maybe 30fps or 48fps. If you had a mirror setup to have two identical cameras see the exact same point of view towards a high movement scene, with Cam A set to 24fps and 1/48th (180 degree shutter) and with Cam B set to 48fps and 1/48th (360 degree shutter), you could take a single, high-movement frame from both cameras at the same time and…they would look identical. I believe one of the recordings would have to be horizontally flipped in camera or in post. Anyway when played back, Cam B’s 48fps recording would appear smoother because it’s twice the temporal information being updated, but the motion blur would be the same because both cameras would be exposed for the same amount of time for matching frames. If you took out every other frame from the 48fps recording that the other recording didn’t capture and doubled up on the frames to fill in the gaps, the two recordings would be indistinguishable. If the 180 degree rule was applied to Cam B, then each frame would be exposed for 1/96th of a second and have half of the exposure and motion blur. As far as aesthetic goes, 48fps and higher frame rates don’t need to follow this rule if they are going to be played back in real time. Those can shoot with a 360 degree shutter, so 48fps > 1/48th, 60fps > 1/60th, etc. But if it is going to be played back at a slower rate, especially 24fps, then the 180 degree aesthetic should probably match unless a crisper look is needed for the scene. So most of the time a 60fps shot that will be slowed down to 24fps should shoot at 1/120th or 180 degree shutter so that when played back at 24fps, the motion blur will appear as if it was shot at 24fps and 1/48th if somehow reality was happening at 40% speed. Hopefully that made sense.
@@homedepotindustrialfan936 I've never touched a camera but I'm trying to make an animation look realistic by adding the motion blur effect and adjusting its shutter speed parameter. Those tips on framerate and shutter speed are priceless. I can't thank you enough
A note of F stops, they're a fraction of the lens focal length. F/2 on a 50mm lens means the opening is 1/2 of the focal length, so 25mm F/4 is one fourth the focal length. So a 200mm F/4 lens will have a 50mm opening for light.
WHAT? with what photography or film? Well, not with photography i guess, F/2 on a fullframe camera with a 50mm lens is f/2. with a cropsensor you have to multiply the f-stop by the cropfactor
@@ridderus To help clarify, the "f" in and F stop literally stands for "focal length" (Focal Length/F Number). The physical focal length of a lens does not change regardless if its on a full or crop sensor. Focal length, in short, is the physical distance between the lens and the modal point, all inside the lens. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens on both a full frame and a crop. This is why if you buy a lens made for a MFT or APS-C you still have to apply the crop factor to the lens. What you're thinking of is "Field of View", or how much of the projected image the sensor sees/uses. As for how much light an aperture lets in, that has nothing to do with the sensor or a camera. Only the lens. Hope this helps.
William Currie The ‘F’ in f-stop is actually just an algabraic symbol. It is simply a fractional indication of the ratio of the aperature vs focal length. I don’t know what blogger or ‘expert’ decided that f stood for Focal Length but it’s suddenly all over the web. Just go to the wiki page for F-number and read it . Any documentation uses it as symbol not a letter.
This is incredible, I learned more in 20 min, than I learned in a year of self study, I had given up, I now have a teacher, so thank you for the motivation
I’m studying cinema and filmmaking I was desperately searching internet for hours trying to find the perfect video to explain exposure triangle in filmaking made me found this channel and found this amazing well ELI5 video!! thanks man! When you mentioned citizen knew knew I was in for a good time!
Thank you for explaining this in a way that makes sense!!!!!!! I have taken multiple *college* classes about photography and none of them came close to this in terms of clarity and general enjoyability.. thank you!
I really hope you see this. I bought a DSLR in January and set out to learn the most I could about photography by watching literally hundreds and hundreds of TH-cam videos. This is by far the best and most eloquent video I've seen. You, sir, have an amazing TALENT. Thank you for sharing.
This is so good! Thank you for such an in depth tutorial. The knowledge although technical excited me creatively - helps me feel that I have a better control of my craft and makes me a better film maker! Thank you as always.
Thank u so much for giving english captions/ subtitles. They r really important for us. Some of my friends unsubscribed u because they didn't understand what u r sayning in english. Please always add captions. Because there r some very different words in these videos (like aperture, iso, shutter, saturation, ) and many more. We don't use such words in ordinary life. So , plz always add english captions
Thank you so so so so much for this video! I love photography, and I understood how the three related to each other, but I love getting some background onto why the numbers are what they are. It helps translate it all from gibberish into sense.
Great info overall but please don’t set your iso to auto when shooting video. For still photography Auto is fine. For video, I try the to keep the ISO low to keep grain/noise at a minimum.
@@alessandrodimilla8450 Yeah you're right if you go below native ISO it will produce more noise. I suppose I try to keep it low since my camera's native ISO is 100 (though ISO 400 hundred is close to being a second native ISO thanks to Sony's trickery). I suppose my revised advice would be to keep ISO closest to the native. Also another issue with setting ISO to Auto during video is that it might change the ISO in the middle of the shot depending on if you're panning the camera from a slightly darker are to a brighter one, it happens on my A6300. Or if an actor walks into the shot, the color of their costume might change the ISO as well if a lot of light is bouncing off it. I suggest setting everything manually before actually hitting the record button.
The root of 2 is used as a multiplier, because that is for how much you need to multiply the diameter of aperture to get the double surface and hence double the light amount. If you take the 2 instead then with each step you increase aperture area and amount of light 4 times...
The root of 2 choosen is by the area the light is passing. Take a Square with the area of 1 m², so the length of one side is 1m. To half the area, you have to devide the length of the side by the root of 2 and so on. The f/Stop are roughly rounded too.
Nice video. About √2: Actually, aperture f-stops are a relation between focal distance and apertura diameter of the lens, if you want to double the area of a circle you need to multiply the diameter by √2.
@wolfcrow thanks for the video! I would have some suggestions to share concerning the part of your video on aperture (starting around minute 14): 1/ F-stops in photography are called f-numbers in optics 2/ The letter "f" stands for focal (not focus) 3/ The f-stop or f-number is the focal ratio between the focal length and the aperture diameter: > f/1 means the focal length equals the aperture diameter > f/2 means the focal length is the double of the aperture diameter > if I have a 50mm with aperture f/2.8, that means my aperture diameter equals 50/2.8 = 17.86mm 4/ Why choose the multiplier "sqr(2)"? You said it before in your video, this ratio doubles the light! (see below) The aperture is a circle so the area that lets the light in equals to: pi x radius^2 > at f/4 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/4)^2 = 490.87mm2 if you want to divide the exposition by 2, you need to multiply the f-number by sqr(2): f/4 becomes f/(4 * sqr(2)) = f/5.6569 > at f/5.6 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/5.6)^2 = 250.45mm2 Feel free to comment for any mistakes I made! Regards!
Thank you! Super helpful for a beginner. One note though, the backing track in the beginning was great for focusing on what you were teaching but towards the end the prog song was a little distracting with all the complex aperture info. Thanks again.
Great video. Really clear explanation with historical context too. However, the bit about auto ISO should only apply to stills cameras IMO. You might see stepped jumps in picture quality and colour with auto ISO if you are filming.
Wow - I'm a beginner and I loved this (not-so-overwhelming in a positive way) video - understood everything immediately (no confusion at all, for the most part, I would say I saw the light quite clearly) grasping all the ISO stuff the first time around! Hair not even mussed up. Absorbed it all and not in any half-baked way, although "setting the ISO on auto and forgetting about it" appears to be good solid advice. Agreed, won't get hung up on any technical details since a good photographer can always buy a really nice camera. ❤️❤️ 3:31 color film hasn't developed - pun intended?
Thank you for this. It is the first video that actually explains it in a simple and complete way for a beginner to not feel overwhelmed. This is what I was looking for
Good video but to any noobies watching DON’T use auto ISO and keep your shutter at 1/48 if shooting at 24p (unless filming sports or slow motion at higher frame rates.) Find what your camera’s native ISO is (this is the ISO where your camera will look it’s best, it should be stated by the manufacturer) and keep it there. The only time you ever really need to change ISO is by increasing it in a dark area. When you need to lower exposure (for example a bright outdoor day) use an ND kit or variable ND filter. It seems cumbersome but is 100% worthwhile and makes a huge difference. An ND filter is basically “sunglasses” for your camera and will limit the amount of light it gets while retaining the nice, cinematic motion blur. Just my two cents, good video otherwise.
4:44 ND filters will always be necessary. If you want your background out of focus when shooting outside on a sunny day right at midday, you'll need a bigger lens opening. The more light comes in, the smaller your focus reach. Without an ND filter, you'll burn the image. With an ND filter, you can open your lens completely on a sunny day without burning the image, getting a nice out of focus background.
During video shooting, you would not like to keep the ISO on auto. That would produce a footage with an inconsistent brightness, making your post production work unworkable or a hell to work with. For photoshoot, yea that I agree if you don't know what to go for.
I would recommend learning how to shoot in Manual, for both Photo and Video. When you're starting out, using Av or Tv makes sense. But once you are starting to feel like you really want to level up, Manual all the way :)
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D4 | Summer | โอกาสสุดท้าย ของสัปดาห์สอง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aswciGrYovo/mqdefault.jpg)
How to find the best camera angles th-cam.com/video/hovbpWHJgTQ/w-d-xo.html
ur awesome
I almost skipped over this video, thinking to myself that this is such basic stuff I don’t need to hear this. I’m so glad I resisted my first impression and stopped and listened. What a simple and yet non-condescending way of presenting such an important topic. Even though I’ve been in the industry for more than 40 years I don’t think I can remember having this topic explained in such a simple and at times humorous fashion. Well done!
I have nowhere near as much experience as you but I was the exact same. It's about reminding ourselves of these basics and really grounding this knowledge. It's quite inspiring to hear that someone of your experience is still recapping on this kind of thing Mark! Shows that this is a life long journey that we are all on in honing our craft.
i just had a very similar experience. had a jaw drop moment in there somewhere.
Same.
Ugh, you can hear something a thousand times, but one person explaining it in just the right way can totally connect all the dots. Thank you so much! This was a huge help! Subscribed!
I’m so glad youtube rec’d your channel. You’re knowledgeable, you teach well, and you’re not trying to shill products. This is what TH-cam used to be.
Great video. One minor clarification about standard shutter speed: the shutter does open and close each frame (unless it’s at it’s slowest speed then it simply stays open). However, that’s not why the standard is 1/48, because it would still open and close the same number of times if it were 1/96 or 1/8000. Shutter speed is based on the amount of time it’s open during the frame and not the number of times it opens and closes, which in this case is half of the frame time. It’s possible to have a shutter speed at almost any duration - it just can’t be any slower than staying open for the duration of the entire frame, and would dictate not only changes in exposure but also varying degrees of motion blur. Typically, the denominator of the shutter speed fraction is double the frame rate to get the amount of motion blur we are used to (30fps would have a shutter of 1/60, 120fps would have a shutter of 1/240, etc).
Otherwise you wouldn't be able to have a 25 shutter at 25 fps. You usually wouldn't do that though because it would be to blurry.
So at 48 fps and shutter speed 1/96, you get the same motion blur as 24 fps shutter speed 1/48?
@@billythecat I should have clarified that the rule applies more in the lower frame rate range up to maybe 30fps or 48fps.
If you had a mirror setup to have two identical cameras see the exact same point of view towards a high movement scene, with Cam A set to 24fps and 1/48th (180 degree shutter) and with Cam B set to 48fps and 1/48th (360 degree shutter), you could take a single, high-movement frame from both cameras at the same time and…they would look identical. I believe one of the recordings would have to be horizontally flipped in camera or in post. Anyway when played back, Cam B’s 48fps recording would appear smoother because it’s twice the temporal information being updated, but the motion blur would be the same because both cameras would be exposed for the same amount of time for matching frames. If you took out every other frame from the 48fps recording that the other recording didn’t capture and doubled up on the frames to fill in the gaps, the two recordings would be indistinguishable.
If the 180 degree rule was applied to Cam B, then each frame would be exposed for 1/96th of a second and have half of the exposure and motion blur. As far as aesthetic goes, 48fps and higher frame rates don’t need to follow this rule if they are going to be played back in real time. Those can shoot with a 360 degree shutter, so 48fps > 1/48th, 60fps > 1/60th, etc.
But if it is going to be played back at a slower rate, especially 24fps, then the 180 degree aesthetic should probably match unless a crisper look is needed for the scene. So most of the time a 60fps shot that will be slowed down to 24fps should shoot at 1/120th or 180 degree shutter so that when played back at 24fps, the motion blur will appear as if it was shot at 24fps and 1/48th if somehow reality was happening at 40% speed.
Hopefully that made sense.
@@homedepotindustrialfan936 I've never touched a camera but I'm trying to make an animation look realistic by adding the motion blur effect and adjusting its shutter speed parameter. Those tips on framerate and shutter speed are priceless. I can't thank you enough
@@billythecat Oh cool, glad to hear it’s helping!
A note of F stops, they're a fraction of the lens focal length.
F/2 on a 50mm lens means the opening is 1/2 of the focal length, so 25mm
F/4 is one fourth the focal length. So a 200mm F/4 lens will have a 50mm opening for light.
thank you!
WHAT? with what photography or film? Well, not with photography i guess, F/2 on a fullframe camera with a 50mm lens is f/2. with a cropsensor you have to multiply the f-stop by the cropfactor
@@ridderus To help clarify, the "f" in and F stop literally stands for "focal length" (Focal Length/F Number). The physical focal length of a lens does not change regardless if its on a full or crop sensor. Focal length, in short, is the physical distance between the lens and the modal point, all inside the lens. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens on both a full frame and a crop. This is why if you buy a lens made for a MFT or APS-C you still have to apply the crop factor to the lens. What you're thinking of is "Field of View", or how much of the projected image the sensor sees/uses. As for how much light an aperture lets in, that has nothing to do with the sensor or a camera. Only the lens. Hope this helps.
@@hollow246 The lens doesn't physically change but effectively it is longer on a crop sensor.
William Currie The ‘F’ in f-stop is actually just an algabraic symbol. It is simply a fractional indication of the ratio of the aperature vs focal length. I don’t know what blogger or ‘expert’ decided that f stood for Focal Length but it’s suddenly all over the web. Just go to the wiki page for F-number and read it . Any documentation uses it as symbol not a letter.
This is incredible, I learned more in 20 min, than I learned in a year of self study, I had given up, I now have a teacher, so thank you for the motivation
This channel is so underrated. Your narrative is engaging.
Original 3-strip technicolor had an ISO of 12. Lots of light needed for Wizard of Oz, Gone with the Wind, etc.
Man, your narration is sooo good to listen to!!
Love your analogies, you communicate concepts brilliantly and in an entertaining way. Excellent
This is like a master class. Thank you!
You're welcome!
I’m studying cinema and filmmaking I was desperately searching internet for hours trying to find the perfect video to explain exposure triangle in filmaking made me found this channel and found this amazing well ELI5 video!! thanks man! When you mentioned citizen knew knew I was in for a good time!
subscribed!!!
Thank you for explaining this in a way that makes sense!!!!!!! I have taken multiple *college* classes about photography and none of them came close to this in terms of clarity and general enjoyability.. thank you!
Even though I have been photographing and filming for over thirty years, still love your videos and this one is a beauty. Thank you.
Never before have I heard an explanation of the classic fundamentals of photography in such an elegant way.
I really hope you see this. I bought a DSLR in January and set out to learn the most I could about photography by watching literally hundreds and hundreds of TH-cam videos. This is by far the best and most eloquent video I've seen. You, sir, have an amazing TALENT. Thank you for sharing.
I so love your videos, easy explained important things! It's magic how everything gets open and clear
This is so good! Thank you for such an in depth tutorial. The knowledge although technical excited me creatively - helps me feel that I have a better control of my craft and makes me a better film maker! Thank you as always.
Blew my mind when you explained why the shutter is 1/48 for cinema. BLEW MY MIND! It like a switch went off in my head.
Great video ! Loved the way you make people understand the complicated things in the simplest examples possible ❤️❤️
Your choice of example movies is superb.
Thank u so much for giving english captions/ subtitles. They r really important for us. Some of my friends unsubscribed u because they didn't understand what u r sayning in english. Please always add captions.
Because there r some very different words in these videos (like aperture, iso, shutter, saturation, ) and many more. We don't use such words in ordinary life. So , plz always add english captions
You are amazing. I have learned so many things through this channel. Thank you Wolfcrow.
Loved the video! It's the exact amount of stuff about cameras I need to know right now. Thank you!
You r brilliant. Your videos are calming and engaging. Thx.
Brilliantly explained and illustrated. Thank you 🙏
This is golden. And Your delivery is on point.
Keeping it simple the classic way
Great video sir
I am a photographer and because of your channel, I will start to shoot videos! Thank you!
I like your channel! You break down the nuts and bolts of the art in an accessible way.
YOU ARE AN AMAZING TEACHER! AND AWESOME HUMAN BEING FOR TEACHING THIS SO WELL AND EASY! THANKS!
Thank you so so so so much for this video! I love photography, and I understood how the three related to each other, but I love getting some background onto why the numbers are what they are. It helps translate it all from gibberish into sense.
Once again, it could not be better explained!!!! Thanks Sareesh 🙏🙏🙏
This is one of the best vidography/photography videos on youtube!
Great video, great explanations. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Best film channel period.
@wolfcrow So far the best teacher I found on youtube!!
Well done! I'm going to share this with my photo club members.
Very well explained and with good humor! Thanks!!
Master Class: thank you so much for your time and effort 👏🏻👏🏻
This is the best video i ve seen for beginner filmmakers
A must watch video on exposure triangle for every beginner.
Great video, great explanations. Thank you!
Great info overall but please don’t set your iso to auto when shooting video. For still photography Auto is fine. For video, I try the to keep the ISO low to keep grain/noise at a minimum.
It's not true that lowest iso= lowest noise
The ISO value the CLOSER is to the native ISO of the machine the less noise you'll have
But it depends on the machine, the majority of them has 100, 400, or 500
@@alessandrodimilla8450 Yeah you're right if you go below native ISO it will produce more noise. I suppose I try to keep it low since my camera's native ISO is 100 (though ISO 400 hundred is close to being a second native ISO thanks to Sony's trickery). I suppose my revised advice would be to keep ISO closest to the native. Also another issue with setting ISO to Auto during video is that it might change the ISO in the middle of the shot depending on if you're panning the camera from a slightly darker are to a brighter one, it happens on my A6300. Or if an actor walks into the shot, the color of their costume might change the ISO as well if a lot of light is bouncing off it. I suggest setting everything manually before actually hitting the record button.
@@Chakranimated I agree with you.
Much love for Sony tho, they got sweet cameras that can shoot in the dark ayy
well explained , thanks for this video!
Brilliant! Thanks so much for such a great explanation!
So so helpful. I didn’t fully get it all, but I’m about 90% of the way there. Thanks!
I'm really glad u have this TH-cam channel bro
You are a great teacher, thank you. I have learned so much.
You create superb content. Informative, useful and nicely explained. I would like to appreciate your efforts.
Wow your videos rock! Some of if not the best I’ve ever seen on complex subjects in videography aka photography given video is just moving photos
Great pice if educational art.
Thank you very much!
Wow so much value for this channel.
Thank you!
your video is very helpful.
Fantastic, u can create legends with this video. Thank u..
thank you... that was very illuminating...
The root of 2 is used as a multiplier, because that is for how much you need to multiply the diameter of aperture to get the double surface and hence double the light amount. If you take the 2 instead then with each step you increase aperture area and amount of light 4 times...
This is an excellent video, I have ever watched ! Thanks a ton for this great Tutorial !!! 👏👌🤩😍
Thank you so much for saying I-S-O!!! Some many people say “iso” as in “isolation” !
Thank you, awesome video and great information!
best explanation i have seen
This is great. Thank you.
The root of 2 choosen is by the area the light is passing.
Take a Square with the area of 1 m², so the length of one side is 1m.
To half the area, you have to devide the length of the side by the root of 2 and so on.
The f/Stop are roughly rounded too.
Outstanding teacher, great mind
Insightful video. Thanks
Loved this video! Very interesting and I learned a lot. Thank you for taking the effort. :-)
Excellent video, thank you!
This is a good video.Every movie needs good lighting.
Nice video. About √2: Actually, aperture f-stops are a relation between focal distance and apertura diameter of the lens, if you want to double the area of a circle you need to multiply the diameter by √2.
Thanks I have learnt something that I have been struggling a lot for thanks
great job here, great work
@wolfcrow thanks for the video!
I would have some suggestions to share concerning the part of your video on aperture (starting around minute 14):
1/ F-stops in photography are called f-numbers in optics
2/ The letter "f" stands for focal (not focus)
3/ The f-stop or f-number is the focal ratio between the focal length and the aperture diameter:
> f/1 means the focal length equals the aperture diameter
> f/2 means the focal length is the double of the aperture diameter
> if I have a 50mm with aperture f/2.8, that means my aperture diameter equals 50/2.8 = 17.86mm
4/ Why choose the multiplier "sqr(2)"? You said it before in your video, this ratio doubles the light! (see below)
The aperture is a circle so the area that lets the light in equals to: pi x radius^2
> at f/4 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/4)^2 = 490.87mm2
if you want to divide the exposition by 2, you need to multiply the f-number by sqr(2): f/4 becomes f/(4 * sqr(2)) = f/5.6569
> at f/5.6 for a 50mm, you have an area of: pi x (50/5.6)^2 = 250.45mm2
Feel free to comment for any mistakes I made!
Regards!
Thank you! Super helpful for a beginner. One note though, the backing track in the beginning was great for focusing on what you were teaching but towards the end the prog song was a little distracting with all the complex aperture info. Thanks again.
Just a breath of fresh air
back to basics! :)
it never hurts a little reminder :D
thank u so much!! i learned a lot from this video
ISO 320 is and has been for the past 28 years my go to. Thanks for the video Sareesh.
You’re welcome!
Great video. Really clear explanation with historical context too. However, the bit about auto ISO should only apply to stills cameras IMO. You might see stepped jumps in picture quality and colour with auto ISO if you are filming.
Brilliant! Super video.
This clip is rich. Thanks 😊 🙏
Nice brother .
It's wonderful information
Thanks
Wow - I'm a beginner and I loved this (not-so-overwhelming in a positive way) video - understood everything immediately (no confusion at all, for the most part, I would say I saw the light quite clearly) grasping all the ISO stuff the first time around! Hair not even mussed up. Absorbed it all and not in any half-baked way, although "setting the ISO on auto and forgetting about it" appears to be good solid advice. Agreed, won't get hung up on any technical details since a good photographer can always buy a really nice camera. ❤️❤️
3:31 color film hasn't developed - pun intended?
Pun always intended!
Such a great video 🔥
Wow stumbled across your channel, its amazing! Going to help me with my own channel videos! You got yourself a new subscriber!
Thank you for this. It is the first video that actually explains it in a simple and complete way for a beginner to not feel overwhelmed. This is what I was looking for
Awesome Video!!
i watced this while drunk, man, i have to tell you, nice work, this entered on my mind like a politician speech. nice job.
Good video but to any noobies watching DON’T use auto ISO and keep your shutter at 1/48 if shooting at 24p (unless filming sports or slow motion at higher frame rates.)
Find what your camera’s native ISO is (this is the ISO where your camera will look it’s best, it should be stated by the manufacturer) and keep it there. The only time you ever really need to change ISO is by increasing it in a dark area.
When you need to lower exposure (for example a bright outdoor day) use an ND kit or variable ND filter. It seems cumbersome but is 100% worthwhile and makes a huge difference. An ND filter is basically “sunglasses” for your camera and will limit the amount of light it gets while retaining the nice, cinematic motion blur.
Just my two cents, good video otherwise.
Fabulous! Thank you!
Jesus this is such a good video
Great content. (New and impressed subscriber)
4:44 ND filters will always be necessary. If you want your background out of focus when shooting outside on a sunny day right at midday, you'll need a bigger lens opening.
The more light comes in, the smaller your focus reach. Without an ND filter, you'll burn the image. With an ND filter, you can open your lens completely on a sunny day without burning the image, getting a nice out of focus background.
You're missing what his entire point was about, if cameras could go to lower ISOs than you wouldn't need ND filters.
Thank you so much !
Thanks great video.
Just great !
Fantastic....
During video shooting, you would not like to keep the ISO on auto. That would produce a footage with an inconsistent brightness, making your post production work unworkable or a hell to work with.
For photoshoot, yea that I agree if you don't know what to go for.
I would recommend learning how to shoot in Manual, for both Photo and Video. When you're starting out, using Av or Tv makes sense. But once you are starting to feel like you really want to level up, Manual all the way :)
Such a nice video. you are a great teacher a funny one
You're such a good teacher. Thank you for explaining the complex of things with such ease. 👍