I took my car here To get A bridge seal Replaced and I will say this Gary is the most professional patient person You can ever speak with such a nice guy also his work is amazing are highly recommend him Very honest mechanic And that's hard to find. if you have anything wrong with your transmission he can fix it thank you
@@GaryFerraro Having a little bit of problem with my transmission currently perconcurrently. I was driving to a doctor's appointment the other day and as I was about 20 minutes away the car went out of gear and would not go back into gear. I turned the car off and it came back into gear for just a little bit and then it dropped out of gear again.
Os discos de composite a última peça é uma placa de reação poderia mostrar qual lado que elas são montadas na transmissão, com o ressalto pra capa seca ou ou pra 4x4?
I had a Grand Cherokee come in with this exact problem about 5 years ago. I figured it was a very unusual failure based on how difficult it was to get parts through Chrysler at the time. Good job on the video - now I have something to show people to describe the weirdest 'WOOP' I've ever heard.
There's a lot to like about this video, but three main ones come to mind: 1) Very informative and full of useful information about a topic I didn't know anything about. 2) No music or techno noises. 3) Audio level ducks down with loud sounds, which makes it consistent and easy to listen to. The dipstick tool for my NAG-1 is flat, but doesn't have the twist on the end. It's impossible to read. No idea where the level is. Ended up finding a really long white zip tie, which readily and easily shows the fluid level. I compared it's length to my new tool, and now just use the dipstick as a reference point.
Us LX guys run these transmissions hard when racing... that little 3.6 is no where near the limit of the transmission. Was the torque converter installed fully?
I have the W5A580 TX in 3.7 WK with over 100k no issue, Long Island stop and go driving with cold weather is really hard on TX and drivetrain, one of the biggest reasons TX fail is dirty oil, blocked filter, low oil from leak, heavy towing without additional cooling. Initial change with this TX should be 24-30k or 2 years as there will be more debris from break-in, then I prefer 30k or 3 years for heavy stop and go and 50k or 5 years for light stop and go. Keep in mind only half the oil comes out with pan drop 4-6 Qts., total capacity is approx. 10 Qts., what they call a filter is really a screen unlike engine oil filter, this is to maintain high oil flow at the expense of unfiltered oil.
flange nut holding drive coupler to output shaft, is it necessary to buy new one every time or can we loctite the old one in place? USPS lost mine and been waiting a week for it... finally found a good coupler, had to buy a transfer case too, nut I bought must have been shipped in a bag as it bounced so many times back n forth same post office dozen times in CA 8 times in MN now 3 times in WI, think it is a gonner...
the problem is when you go to check the fluid the measuring tool for the Mercedes will get stuck in there, then you may have to drop the valvebody again to get it out, so i probably wouldn't go that route
@ would I be able to use the Mercedes stick to prevent that from happening and get the right measurements, the reason I’m asking is that I could get the Mercedes conductor plate for Half the price of what they want for the jeep conductor plate ,it’s for a 2012 jeep grand Cherokee srt8
I just picked up a 2010 Charger AWD 3.5 with Nag1 and you should hear that noise, it is way louder than this... even noisy in park and neutral, when put in park sounds like shafts are spinning as the parking pawl is clattering until I shut it off and it could attempt to lock, it could not, free wheels in park.. car would not push in neutral running, tried it running to steer up car hauler, brakes may have been seized, sat full year... but trany could have been holding as well as it moves without engine running after we pulled it onto street to load... maybe transfer case?
Hi Gary on the NAG1 measuring stick what is the distance from the end to the correct level. I have 2 Mercedes type sticks, I want to modify one of them for the NAG1.
@@GaryFerraro hi yes the kit I bought has 4 dipsticks 2 with plastic ends and 2 with metal ends, only 1 of them with the plastic end is long enough to bottom out in the oil pan.
What would cause the splines to wipe like that? Just came into an 05' 300c and it whines on startup, operates fine while cold, but once up to temp, it stalls and slips.
Do you have any idea what caused this to happen? I'm currently repairing the exact same issue on my 2016 Jeep Wrangler. What's weird is it was instant. I stopped at a light with zero issues and when I took my foot off the brake it made the exact sound heard in your video. I had no codes and no shutter. The motor didn't even bog down when it happened. I found no remanence of the missing splines either. It looks like they just wore out unless they're still in my torque converter. Did you find any bits anywhere during your teardown? Any input is appreciated, I'd like to keep it from happening in the future. Thank you for the video, I was a huge help.
Internals may be the same as long as the tooth counts on the planets and sun gears are correct, maybe the pistons may be a little taller in one of them taking a clutch less per pack pretty much the same , may take a different converter from the grans cherokee
@GaryFerraro appreciate the reply, I've been staring at photos side by side for a bit now, looks like tail housing is different, bell is the same, maybe TC is slightly different, I'm wondering if I can put the GC trans in a 2015 jk to get it back on the road as I can get a CG trans for less than a 3rd the price of the jk trans
Please get yourself a mic and a better quality camera. Love these technical teardowns video and would like to see as many details as possible. Keep it up
Looking at where those splines used to be, it's like they took a page out of the old GM play book where they weren't heat treating their 4th clutch hubs in the 4T65's. Any idea what caused this one to strip its splines?
Got a weird question. Nag1 with 156k miles. Torque converter is 3 years old with 32k on it. Trans fluid D&F done every 45k miles, just dropped the pan 4k miles ago and did the filter. No debris came with fluid. At Idle in D, im getting a revolving whirring sound. Its ONLY in drive, goes away the second I hit the gas. And it only happens after driving for about 20 or so minutes. If i hear it and put the car in N/P/R, no sound. Back in D, itll start up it isnt instant. Itll make a whirr, whirr, even out, than begin whirring constantly with the engine RPM. when I shut the car off its the LAST sound I hear. I cannot find anyone whos having this issue and everyone says due to dirty fluid/clogged filter yet it made the sound both before my fluid swap and after.
Wondering if something in the PCV, With the car running did you take off the oil fill cap to see if noise goes away? If it is a filter noise, you would hear it in every gear. If it is a converter noise you would hear a noise in Reverse and Drive ranges and it would go away in park and Neutral
@@GaryFerraro yeah I tested the converter on the way home. Magically it was quiet the whole 40 mile trip. Soon as the nose entered the garage, the canary came out, decided to do a flash stall test, it went didnt even hit 2k. It usually hits 3250. It also started singing with the RPM. Guess ill replace it again.
Interesting video Gary. I have a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee with this transmission. I believe the transmission pan was replaced back around 100,000 mi. I have 210,000 on it now. Everything's running fine, should I have the fluid and filter changed?
I've been a tech on euro cars for 20years. Fluid for life they say. We say how longs life. 100k, 200k, ect. They dont answer.....dont get caught with destruction. My automatics get fluid and filter every 60k drop pan, clean magnets, new oil.
I'm trying to figure out what my issue is with the nag1. Not sure if it is the trans or not... 2011 grand cherokee, light whistle shifting from D to P and accelerating 0-8mph. No issues, it's more annoying than anything.
@@GaryFerraro no noise in park or standing still. It seems like it's only when I shift back and forth from park and low speed acceleration. Occasionally at higher speeds. It's bugging me that I can figure it out. Exhaust leak maybe
Hi Garry , just viewing your video , I’m having a very similar problem with the Nag 1 in my 2012 wrangler, 106,000 no check engine light or codes this started just about 3000 miles ago , the noise I’m getting is only under hard acceleration high pitch with lost of power , I’d like you to do the unit for me I’ll try and look you up I’m in Westchester thanks Bob
Awesome video! Here a bullet proved idea, if someone comes again with a Wrangler: Put in carbon clutch and the stronger torque converter from the AMG G-Class or AMG SL55. We in Germany drove 2.8 Diesel Engines in the Jeep. With torque over 550Nm we kill the torque converters an clutches very fast. Chrysler built the same small things (cheap) in every model of the wrangler. Only Chrysler 300 Hemi Must have the stronger parts I think! 👋👍
I'm about to rebuild the trans in my girlfriend's wrangler, I'm watching all I can to learn the process and what stronger parts to put in to hopefully avoid having to do it again in the future
CVT you must change that fluid very frequently, DO NOT listen to this lifetime fluid bullshit with any transmission, at a MINIMUM, do drain and fills every 60k, every 30k with a CVT and simply measure what you take out and replace the same amount plus a few ounces. If you have a leak, take to a shop. Drop the pan at 60k to change the filter. On my JKU, I swap out a couple quarts of ATF+4 with every oil change, I ALWAYS use OEM ATF, Especially if under warranty.
I ran across your teardown of Nag1 5spd doing research on my nag1. I have a 07 300c rwd i just installed another 5.7 in due to other 5.7 overheating and droppin valve seats. When i was done with install i filled my trans back up with fluid because i installed a 3k FTI stall converter in. Trans had no prior problems shift and drove as should, so i shifted into drive no go, when i shift into Reverse no go. I dont have any trans trouble codes no noise trans literally does nothing. I overfilled trans and fluid everywhere smh so i siphoned it out down to correct level and still no movement. What could it possibly be? Im familiar with small teardown like changing solenoids and conductor plate. Im thinking the conductor plate got too hot due to me driving with hole in radiator and sending it 5.7 heaven since i know radiator also trans cooler no coolant no trans cooler smh so if you know what it is i would really appreciate it.
@@GaryFerraro my apologies, i dont know what manual valve is. All i did was swap torque converter to high stall converter and at 1st i was thinking torque converter i put in is bad. Quick troubleshoot i did was hold brake and accelerate in drive and revs stopped at 3k rpm no movement from trans then in park and neutral it revs to around 4k so im stuck on is it converter good or bad, or is the trans cooked? Manual valve never heard of. Sorry if im all over with my explanation
Is there any reason why you don't just replace the stripped shaft and go all back together as is?? Is it just because of the amount of miles that are one it?--- or just because you are already in there, and might as well get some new parts, because of the 100k miles?---- or is it because you'll have to warranty it, so you want to cover your tracks?? I just know if I was doing this myself, I would only replace the damaged part and go back together, as cheap as possible-- if it were mine (not if I was doing it for someone else)----- I'm just curious as to what determines your decision making on what needs to be replaced-- and why.
This comes from a wholesale account, when i called them with my findings, they said to do the overhaul, didn't want any problems, there are other parts that have a high failure rate
@@GaryFerraro Awesome video, same problem with the stripped shaft, can you mention the other high failure rate parts, we are in the processing of researching and rebuilding ours, same exact year and model in your video, thank you for your time
Man, that ATF+4 looks completely fried, must smell great. Get yourself a nice rubber mallet. Tell the customer to do a trans service, looks like running it on molasses, not ATF+4.
I believe I’m dealing with the same problem my car was making a high pitch buzzing noise I disabled everything exactly like you did pulled the stator out and it looks like a dotted line across the splines what caused this could it be from the torque converter not being fully seated and does this mean my torque converter is stripped as well thanks for the knowledge just trying to trouble shoot before replacing parts and having it happen again
@@GaryFerraro I replaced the filter it moves now but it keeps slipping in third gear and then goes in protect mode immediately the computer is saying speed sensor is not reading and incorrect gear ratio so I was going to replace the conductor plate as well but when I changed the fluid it smelt really burnt no clutch pack material on the magnet or anything the pan was pretty clean do you think I should get the overhaul kit and replace the stator ?
What would cause this transmission to want to move forward in Park or Neutral...if I put it in drive or reverse, it won't move..if I put it in neutral, it will move forward if I give it a little gas, and it will try to move forward if I put it in Park, but the parking pawl won't allow it to move.
@Gary Ferraro last year it had a problem where it lost all movement...I changed the fluid and filter, and there was a lot of clutch material in the pan.....it started working again, but developed and issue where you would be driving, and it would just go into neutral for a few seconds, turn on the engine light, set a code for incorrect ratio, then slam back into gear and start working again...I hope it just needs new clutches and a good cleanout or does it need a full on overhaul including new valve body and torque converter?
This sound 3:59 brings me back to the video few times every day and im listing it for like 10 min XD. It's awesome :D. Until I would like to add some speakers to have such an amazing effect while shifting a gear in my 300C :D
@@GaryFerraro thank you so much for your response back I changed the conductor plate I'm still having the same issues sounds like my torque converters winding
@@GaryFerraro I was mainly hearing the whining noise when it would go into limp mode when it would kick that's how I'd realized the car was in that mode I would hear the torque converter wine but I noticed it a few times when the car went as soon as I started the car I would hear a winding noise
Me 1995 jeep cherokee tue trasmicion star mek som Cronkite like po po and after go to clon 6 o 7 time and yes go to big nois and no more on spit so I moved with the 4 x4 o Don tek parking I hab to trun of the engei
I took my car here To get A bridge seal Replaced and I will say this Gary is the most professional patient person You can ever speak with such a nice guy also his work is amazing are highly recommend him Very honest mechanic And that's hard to find. if you have anything wrong with your transmission he can fix it thank you
Thanks Louis, glad all is well
@@GaryFerraro Having a little bit of problem with my transmission currently perconcurrently. I was driving to a doctor's appointment the other day and as I was about 20 minutes away the car went out of gear and would not go back into gear. I turned the car off and it came back into gear for just a little bit and then it dropped out of gear again.
@@odogrollin What kind of car do you have?
@@GaryFerraro 2005 dodge magnum rt
Os discos de composite a última peça é uma placa de reação poderia mostrar qual lado que elas são montadas na transmissão, com o ressalto pra capa seca ou ou pra 4x4?
I had a Grand Cherokee come in with this exact problem about 5 years ago. I figured it was a very unusual failure based on how difficult it was to get parts through Chrysler at the time. Good job on the video - now I have something to show people to describe the weirdest 'WOOP' I've ever heard.
First time i have seen this
I have one in my shop making the same noise. never heard it before but i was pretty sure someone has. Thank you TH-cam! and this channel of course.
There's a lot to like about this video, but three main ones come to mind: 1) Very informative and full of useful information about a topic I didn't know anything about. 2) No music or techno noises. 3) Audio level ducks down with loud sounds, which makes it consistent and easy to listen to.
The dipstick tool for my NAG-1 is flat, but doesn't have the twist on the end. It's impossible to read. No idea where the level is. Ended up finding a really long white zip tie, which readily and easily shows the fluid level. I compared it's length to my new tool, and now just use the dipstick as a reference point.
Us LX guys run these transmissions hard when racing... that little 3.6 is no where near the limit of the transmission. Was the torque converter installed fully?
Yes it was, first time i've seen the stator stripped.
I have the W5A580 TX in 3.7 WK with over 100k no issue, Long Island stop and go driving with cold weather is really hard on TX and drivetrain, one of the biggest reasons TX fail is dirty oil, blocked filter, low oil from leak, heavy towing without additional cooling. Initial change with this TX should be 24-30k or 2 years as there will be more debris from break-in, then I prefer 30k or 3 years for heavy stop and go and 50k or 5 years for light stop and go. Keep in mind only half the oil comes out with pan drop 4-6 Qts., total capacity is approx. 10 Qts., what they call a filter is really a screen unlike engine oil filter, this is to maintain high oil flow at the expense of unfiltered oil.
Im on Long Island too., Thanks for the info
Thanks Gary, great video.
Finally teardown after 18 minutes
sorry, just trying to cover some questions that come in
Very good video though thumbs up
@@rosalindabatalla5988 Thank you
Nice informative video , thankyou very much for the excellent articulation on some of the finer details .
Thank you
With all that material stripped off the stator shaft, did you have to replace the converter, too? Did you flush the atf cooling system?
yes, converter was changed and lines flushed out
flange nut holding drive coupler to output shaft, is it necessary to buy new one every time or can we loctite the old one in place? USPS lost mine and been waiting a week for it... finally found a good coupler, had to buy a transfer case too, nut I bought must have been shipped in a bag as it bounced so many times back n forth same post office dozen times in CA 8 times in MN now 3 times in WI, think it is a gonner...
If nut is good ok to use
I'm impressed,,that is a lot of work, my sprinters tranny is in the shop, she refuses to change above 1 st gear...thank you for this
are they doing an overhaul or repair?
Great video Gary!!
Can I use the Mercedes conductor plate on the jeep Nag 1 transmission, is the only difference the dip stick hole ?
the problem is when you go to check the fluid the measuring tool for the Mercedes will get stuck in there, then you may have to drop the valvebody again to get it out, so i probably wouldn't go that route
@ would I be able to use the Mercedes stick to prevent that from happening and get the right measurements, the reason I’m asking is that I could get the Mercedes conductor plate for Half the price of what they want for the jeep conductor plate ,it’s for a 2012 jeep grand Cherokee srt8
@@JesusFlores-th3ej I guess you could, i have never done this before
Did the torque converter cause the spline damage? How did that occur?
Overtime the splines just wore out and eventually stripped
I just picked up a 2010 Charger AWD 3.5 with Nag1 and you should hear that noise, it is way louder than this... even noisy in park and neutral, when put in park sounds like shafts are spinning as the parking pawl is clattering until I shut it off and it could attempt to lock, it could not, free wheels in park.. car would not push in neutral running, tried it running to steer up car hauler, brakes may have been seized, sat full year... but trany could have been holding as well as it moves without engine running after we pulled it onto street to load... maybe transfer case?
May want to drop the pan, sounds like trans is busted up
Hi Gary on the NAG1 measuring stick what is the distance from the end to the correct level. I have 2 Mercedes type sticks, I want to modify one of them for the NAG1.
The end that goes into the trans are plastic on the measuring tool you have?
@@GaryFerraro hi yes the kit I bought has 4 dipsticks 2 with plastic ends and 2 with metal ends, only 1 of them with the plastic end is long enough to bottom out in the oil pan.
@@niallseddon8657 The plastic end may get stuck under the conductor plate, metal end should really be used
Heyy Gary nice video. 👍👍
What would cause the splines to wipe like that? Just came into an 05' 300c and it whines on startup, operates fine while cold, but once up to temp, it stalls and slips.
stalls when put into gear?
At 52:35 I chopped that black dowel which goes inside the plate. Is that a problem?
How is the torque converter ?
Do you have any idea what caused this to happen?
I'm currently repairing the exact same issue on my 2016 Jeep Wrangler. What's weird is it was instant. I stopped at a light with zero issues and when I took my foot off the brake it made the exact sound heard in your video. I had no codes and no shutter. The motor didn't even bog down when it happened. I found no remanence of the missing splines either. It looks like they just wore out unless they're still in my torque converter. Did you find any bits anywhere during your teardown? Any input is appreciated, I'd like to keep it from happening in the future.
Thank you for the video, I was a huge help.
May not find pieces, were the splines stripped?
Yes, did they just wear out?@@GaryFerraro
It happens, seen it a few times, the splines just wear out@@eriknore
Old video, but any idea the differences between the grand cherokee nag1 and the wrangler nag1?
Internals may be the same as long as the tooth counts on the planets and sun gears are correct, maybe the pistons may be a little taller in one of them taking a clutch less per pack pretty much the same , may take a different converter from the grans cherokee
@GaryFerraro appreciate the reply, I've been staring at photos side by side for a bit now, looks like tail housing is different, bell is the same, maybe TC is slightly different, I'm wondering if I can put the GC trans in a 2015 jk to get it back on the road as I can get a CG trans for less than a 3rd the price of the jk trans
Please get yourself a mic and a better quality camera. Love these technical teardowns video and would like to see as many details as possible. Keep it up
Hi Gary. Great Video, thank you. Is the W5J400 the same as the transmission here? The W5J400 is used with the Diesel engine.
Looking at where those splines used to be, it's like they took a page out of the old GM play book where they weren't heat treating their 4th clutch hubs in the 4T65's. Any idea what caused this one to strip its splines?
I actually do not know, i don't really see this type of problem happen with these units
Maybe that one in a million thar missed the heat treating furnace
So 722.6 solenoids don't fit to nag1 transmission ?
They will fit, it's the same trans.
@@GaryFerraro thanks so much my jeep 2005 slip from 2 to 3
@@saulurrea3904 Any Codes, Have you checked fluid level
@@GaryFerraro yes I have some codes P1637, U0404,U1408 thanks for the response Gary
I changed the atf I put too much I was coming from top of the transmission I had to take out some
Got a weird question. Nag1 with 156k miles. Torque converter is 3 years old with 32k on it. Trans fluid D&F done every 45k miles, just dropped the pan 4k miles ago and did the filter. No debris came with fluid. At Idle in D, im getting a revolving whirring sound. Its ONLY in drive, goes away the second I hit the gas. And it only happens after driving for about 20 or so minutes. If i hear it and put the car in N/P/R, no sound. Back in D, itll start up it isnt instant. Itll make a whirr, whirr, even out, than begin whirring constantly with the engine RPM. when I shut the car off its the LAST sound I hear. I cannot find anyone whos having this issue and everyone says due to dirty fluid/clogged filter yet it made the sound both before my fluid swap and after.
Wondering if something in the PCV, With the car running did you take off the oil fill cap to see if noise goes away? If it is a filter noise, you would hear it in every gear. If it is a converter noise you would hear a noise in Reverse and Drive ranges and it would go away in park and Neutral
@@GaryFerraro yeah I tested the converter on the way home. Magically it was quiet the whole 40 mile trip. Soon as the nose entered the garage, the canary came out, decided to do a flash stall test, it went didnt even hit 2k. It usually hits 3250. It also started singing with the RPM. Guess ill replace it again.
How did it get stripped? hard/fast application of the throttle? Faulty valve body that engages the torque converter harshly?
I am not really sure, first time i'm seeing this, unless it's the material the stator is made from
@@GaryFerraro is there another issue that goes on with these transmissions that causes the torque converter not to engage
@@freezy2freshfrankiedoyle223 could be a valvebody problem or maybe converter itself, they have a failure rate as well
@@GaryFerrarookay thank you so much for your response do you know what goes bad on the value bodys
@@freezy2freshfrankiedoyle223 overlap valves may wear out, i honestly do not see to many valvebody issues
Interesting video Gary. I have a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee with this transmission. I believe the transmission pan was replaced back around 100,000 mi. I have 210,000 on it now. Everything's running fine, should I have the fluid and filter changed?
they recommend changing it at 120k at the latest. So yes, i'd assume you're due. If the fluid isn't pink or is burnt, definitely change it
I've been a tech on euro cars for 20years. Fluid for life they say.
We say how longs life. 100k, 200k, ect. They dont answer.....dont get caught with destruction. My automatics get fluid and filter every 60k drop pan, clean magnets, new oil.
I'm trying to figure out what my issue is with the nag1. Not sure if it is the trans or not... 2011 grand cherokee, light whistle shifting from D to P and accelerating 0-8mph. No issues, it's more annoying than anything.
Do you hear the noise in Park and also in drive standing still
@@GaryFerraro no noise in park or standing still. It seems like it's only when I shift back and forth from park and low speed acceleration. Occasionally at higher speeds. It's bugging me that I can figure it out. Exhaust leak maybe
Nice job. Congratulations
Thanks for watching
Hi Garry , just viewing your video , I’m having a very similar problem with the Nag 1 in my 2012 wrangler, 106,000 no check engine light or codes this started just about 3000 miles ago , the noise I’m getting is only under hard acceleration high pitch with lost of power , I’d like you to do the unit for me I’ll try and look you up I’m in Westchester thanks Bob
No Problem, send me an E-mail
Gsferraro@yahoo.com and i can send you my info
Awesome video! Here a bullet proved idea, if someone comes again with a Wrangler: Put in carbon clutch and the stronger torque converter from the AMG G-Class or AMG SL55. We in Germany drove 2.8 Diesel Engines in the Jeep. With torque over 550Nm we kill the torque converters an clutches very fast. Chrysler built the same small things (cheap) in every model of the wrangler. Only Chrysler 300 Hemi Must have the stronger parts I think! 👋👍
I'm about to rebuild the trans in my girlfriend's wrangler, I'm watching all I can to learn the process and what stronger parts to put in to hopefully avoid having to do it again in the future
Would love to see a video on that Jatco CVT just to see what the cost effective fix is. Thanks for the vids.
will keep that in mind, thanks for watching
CVT you must change that fluid very frequently, DO NOT listen to this lifetime fluid bullshit with any transmission, at a MINIMUM, do drain and fills every 60k, every 30k with a CVT and simply measure what you take out and replace the same amount plus a few ounces. If you have a leak, take to a shop. Drop the pan at 60k to change the filter. On my JKU, I swap out a couple quarts of ATF+4 with every oil change, I ALWAYS use OEM ATF, Especially if under warranty.
I ran across your teardown of Nag1 5spd doing research on my nag1. I have a 07 300c rwd i just installed another 5.7 in due to other 5.7 overheating and droppin valve seats. When i was done with install i filled my trans back up with fluid because i installed a 3k FTI stall converter in. Trans had no prior problems shift and drove as should, so i shifted into drive no go, when i shift into Reverse no go. I dont have any trans trouble codes no noise trans literally does nothing. I overfilled trans and fluid everywhere smh so i siphoned it out down to correct level and still no movement. What could it possibly be? Im familiar with small teardown like changing solenoids and conductor plate. Im thinking the conductor plate got too hot due to me driving with hole in radiator and sending it 5.7 heaven since i know radiator also trans cooler no coolant no trans cooler smh so if you know what it is i would really appreciate it.
You hooked up manual valve? If you did i'm thinking something happened to the pump
@@GaryFerraro my apologies, i dont know what manual valve is. All i did was swap torque converter to high stall converter and at 1st i was thinking torque converter i put in is bad. Quick troubleshoot i did was hold brake and accelerate in drive and revs stopped at 3k rpm no movement from trans then in park and neutral it revs to around 4k so im stuck on is it converter good or bad, or is the trans cooked? Manual valve never heard of. Sorry if im all over with my explanation
@@moparlifetv If all you did was change out the converter, you may have damaged the pump gears
What was the whine noise when the engine was running and in neutral and park? I have a 3.6 with the same sound.
That was also the converter running around the stripped spline
Is there any reason why you don't just replace the stripped shaft and go all back together as is?? Is it just because of the amount of miles that are one it?--- or just because you are already in there, and might as well get some new parts, because of the 100k miles?---- or is it because you'll have to warranty it, so you want to cover your tracks?? I just know if I was doing this myself, I would only replace the damaged part and go back together, as cheap as possible-- if it were mine (not if I was doing it for someone else)----- I'm just curious as to what determines your decision making on what needs to be replaced-- and why.
This comes from a wholesale account, when i called them with my findings, they said to do the overhaul, didn't want any problems, there are other parts that have a high failure rate
@@GaryFerraro Awesome video, same problem with the stripped shaft, can you mention the other high failure rate parts, we are in the processing of researching and rebuilding ours, same exact year and model in your video, thank you for your time
@@mattw7566 The 2 sprags have high failure rate and the conductor plate does too, install a rebuilt converter also, they go bad often
@@GaryFerraro Do you have the part numbers of the 2 sprags you have had good luck with? Thanks!
Man, that ATF+4 looks completely fried, must smell great. Get yourself a nice rubber mallet. Tell the customer to do a trans service, looks like running it on molasses, not ATF+4.
I believe I’m dealing with the same problem my car was making a high pitch buzzing noise I disabled everything exactly like you did pulled the stator out and it looks like a dotted line across the splines what caused this could it be from the torque converter not being fully seated and does this mean my torque converter is stripped as well thanks for the knowledge just trying to trouble shoot before replacing parts and having it happen again
ok, you had this noise, did the car ever stop moving when hot?
@@GaryFerraro yes after awhile it wouldn’t move the rpms just jump and it barely moves
@@randyszilay3590 Sounds like filter is clogging up
@@GaryFerraro I replaced the filter it moves now but it keeps slipping in third gear and then goes in protect mode immediately the computer is saying speed sensor is not reading and incorrect gear ratio so I was going to replace the conductor plate as well but when I changed the fluid it smelt really burnt no clutch pack material on the magnet or anything the pan was pretty clean do you think I should get the overhaul kit and replace the stator ?
@@randyszilay3590 slipping in 3rd your K2 clutch is probably smoked, is your stator stripped, the plines are no good?
What would cause this transmission to want to move forward in Park or Neutral...if I put it in drive or reverse, it won't move..if I put it in neutral, it will move forward if I give it a little gas, and it will try to move forward if I put it in Park, but the parking pawl won't allow it to move.
There is a clutch pack that is locked together and will not release, did you run it low on oil?
@Gary Ferraro last year it had a problem where it lost all movement...I changed the fluid and filter, and there was a lot of clutch material in the pan.....it started working again, but developed and issue where you would be driving, and it would just go into neutral for a few seconds, turn on the engine light, set a code for incorrect ratio, then slam back into gear and start working again...I hope it just needs new clutches and a good cleanout or does it need a full on overhaul including new valve body and torque converter?
I think the fluid was never changed as usual so much for lifetime fluid
Agreed, i don't believe in that either
great video do have one installing a shift kit
I do not, i don't use shift kits on these units
This sound 3:59 brings me back to the video few times every day and im listing it for like 10 min XD. It's awesome :D. Until I would like to add some speakers to have such an amazing effect while shifting a gear in my 300C :D
47:25 “Square hole, square hole, round hole,round hole” - Richard of “Precision Transmission”
Wow! That's a heck of a noise!! 😯😖
It sure was
its 772,9?
Can I put a transmission from 2006 Chrysler 300 to 2005 jeep cherokee
I think bell housing looks different
I am going to try swap bell housing from my transmission
Yes Bellhousing may be different
I have same problem in 722.1
Maybe stator stripped too.
Yes I already change the stator it stripped the same.
What goes wrong with these transmission what's the number one cause
I would say conductor plate failure
@@GaryFerraro thank you so much for your response back I changed the conductor plate I'm still having the same issues sounds like my torque converters winding
@@freezy2freshfrankiedoyle223 When do you hear the winding? all gears or just in Reverse and drive and the noise goes away in park and neutral
@@GaryFerraro I was mainly hearing the whining noise when it would go into limp mode when it would kick that's how I'd realized the car was in that mode I would hear the torque converter wine but I noticed it a few times when the car went as soon as I started the car I would hear a winding noise
@@freezy2freshfrankiedoyle223 If Limp mode, what codes do you have?
A great place for tools at the internet it’s tool Topia
Also they are free shipping above 50 $ orders and they have it all . I use it all the time. ,
Thanks, i will check it out
Me 1995 jeep cherokee tue trasmicion star mek som Cronkite like po po and after go to clon 6 o 7 time and yes go to big nois and no more on spit so I moved with the 4 x4 o Don tek parking I hab to trun of the engei
I like to no Bai you waht is the problem please hel me
@@jehovaarciga2016 Not sure i understand, does this maybe stop moving when hot?
Brink Truck, your post for some reason did not show, you can e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com What is the engine size?
Holy shit, those noises not good.
Sorry..sometimes you need to.edit out the bs.....jesus......peace.i4i
Hi..any tips to check nag1 that doesn't move at all? Code u0103 / u0002 / u110a / u0101