Great information here, thanks. I second everything she said here. I did my kitchen a couple of years ago with epoxy and did not like the results. I'm covering it with Formica soon. Mimzy's results were much better than mine. I'm pretty good at carpentry, plumbing and painting, but my epoxy countertop project was a failure. For anyone still considering it, I would suggest the following: Don't do it alone - there's a lot to do and a limited time to do it. Have someone mix and someone else pour. Test your colors on a scrap piece before committing to it on your countertop. Don't allow sunlight on the surface when you're pouring - heat will make the exposed areas cure much faster. Take extra care when measuring - the resin is much more viscous than the hardener and this can make it hard to tell how much of each ingredient is in the mix. Keep your pets out of the room for as long as possible - I had several pet hairs in my countertop. And a few bugs. Don't use painter's tape on the edges - the adhesive isn't strong enough and the epoxy will push the tape away from the edge before it cures. Use regular masking tape instead. Do your backsplash first, then set it in place after it cures. Seal the backsplash/countertop seam with caulk before pouring the countertop, then cover the caulked seam with epoxy so your seal there is epoxy and thus won't stain.
Thank you!!! I went to college for art and ended up painting murals for about 12 years back in the 90’s and early 2000’s. So I got the hang of veining. I like it subtle and realistic.
The epoxy can be color sanded and buffed to remove most scratches. Applying "Klasse" in the red bottle every few months will remove light scratches and prevent new ones.😊👍
@yoyomansteve in its liquid intended application form it probably can be a little more toxic than isopropyl alcohol or a candy bar. The acrylic resin left behind is probably the target item once the carrier solvent(s) evaporate, and no more toxic than other acrylates still used in makeup products or other items of similar composition around the house. A little linseed/flaxseed oil after buffing with baking soda and water paste would be a safer and natural alternative if one was concerned. I've been using Klasse since the 80s, with no adverse effects, thankfully. Klasse is manufactured in Germany, and their health concern and safety requirements are very strict in comparison to ours. MSDS for Klasse all-in-one is available online. 😊👍
Today, there are non yellowing epoxies. There are non yellowing white pigments as well. A clear coat for epoxy is totally different than usual polyurethane. RK3 Design has a very good video on clear coat for epoxy, it is called UTC( ultimate top coat), another company called Leggari Products, also sells non yellowing epoxy with non yellowing top coat.
Thank you so much for this video. My question is, if you think I could apply resin over a contact paper for counters. I really appreciate the time you take to answer my question.
yes, i think you could. you would just need to totally encapsulate the contact paper so that theres no chance of it peeling anyhwere. I've never tried it myself, but i dont see any reason it would work.
The yellowing line theory is prettt good. However as a painter i have a suspicion that the high spot gets more wear from cleaning than the lower spot. I would try to sand and polish the low spot and see if that cures the yellowing. It would also confirm if its bc of thickness or its just wear and oxidation/contamination.
my sister bought me some scentsy bars and a yellow one stained my counter... i cant see to get it out but im thinking i may give a light sand and put on another clear epoxy. i love my counters thanks to you!
Good job on this video! I'm about to do my new kitchen island countertop and have learned from your experience. I'm using Stone Coat ART COAT, which has a blue tint in PART A, to give some UV protection. But even then, I'm finding out from the pros it will still eventually yellow. Artisan Design Concepts totally switched from using epoxy to a product called Polykote Enhanced. It's not an epoxy and will never yellow. That's what I'll use after mine does start to look bad. Wish i knew about Polykote before I spent the money.
Have you tried “sanding” with a magic eraser and then going up to a 40,000 jewelers sandpaper to get the gloss back? That could get the stain out and if you used an electric buffer the whole counter could be rejuvenated.
The additional yellowing is caused by the additional epoxy...basically it's all the same amount of yellowing but the light reflecting from the counter has to travel through more yellow epoxy...like when a cup of coffee looks darker in the cup than when you are pouring it
@@MimzyandCompany very well.actually I think it’s been 4 years. I did use stone coat products. I don’t have as much counter space as you have . It did get a stain also with turmeric but a little bleach took it right out. No scratches but I don’t cut on the counters anyway.
@@MimzyandCompany I watched a ton of their videos to learn how and the tips and tricks. I will say it was pricey but cheaper than new countertops. I have a hard working kitchen so it’s done well , plus there was no way we can take off our old cabinets. RK3 design is another one I watched that helped
has your countertops yellowed at all? what was your color range. I'm just starting with using the stone coat products for art and I'm wondering what a realistic lifespan is before yellowing and how dark amber they might get. thanks
My daughters were able to stain over the sealer with make up ad hair dye. Sanding it down and resealing and covering the counters is what I needed to do after.
Good question. Not sure how many ounces per foot. I just use a notched tool to make sure it’s thin. Or on smaller projects I use a paint brush to brush it in like paint.
Hi Mimzy! my bathroom is late 90's cultured marble vanity top with sink molded right into it. so the inside of the sink has soap ledges (one on each side) and sink is shaped like a clamshell. and backsplash is also molded as one-piece as well. question: It's 55" x 22" , do you think this would be a good project for Epoxy? It's a yellow-ish white-ish swirled cultured marble. Should I just leave well-enough alone (I can't stand the color though)... or go for it !!! and if go for it, would a white with silver swirls or go black marble, or go white with silver accent swirls, or go white w/black swirls. I will match everything to whatever I do for the sink-top, in other words, I will buy VINLY Plank LVP flooring around the color I go with on the sink-top or vanity (the vanity is a whole other story, it's smooth maple wood cabinetry (I'm thinking of going with a darker blue color perhaps?), open to suggestions on everything. thx so very much in advance!
I think that the integrated sink and backsplash is difficult. The vertical surfaces cause the epoxy to run. So if you want to do a marble like design it doesn't work very well, the color ends up running to the lowest point. It's possible, but it's not ideal, and I wouldn't recommend this as a first project. If it was me I'd remove the whole countertop and install MDF or plywood, epoxy that and install a separate sink.
I just did some epoxy countertops I poured the backsplashes first and then install them and then poured the flat part of the countertops to kind of lock them in and seal the cracks to make them waterproof so there's no water would be able to leak through after I got done my client brought to my attention that there was some splatters on the backsplash and since I could not remove them and pull them out and lay them flat I am trying to figure out how to bring back the shine because all the rest of them are high gloss and I want to bring that shine back but after seeing what I just saw on your video about polyurethane I definitely don't want to use that so my question is have you ever considered using clear auto paint ever considered using clear auto paint
No, I never thought to use auto paint. If it was me I'd probably just do another thin layer of epoxy over the whole backsplash. Or over the whole darn thing. Just a really thin layer...maybe use a brush to spread it really thin with the help of a heat gun.
Do you think it was worth it using epoxy instead of painting or replacing your countertop tops would you use epoxy again. I think yours still look nice. Thanks for your video
I think it's absolutely worth it! However I didn't pay a lot for my epoxy because I bought mine from a local supplier, so I paid a fraction of what it cost to buy epoxy online from Stonecoat or Total Boat. I paid around $100 for my epoxy. Online to get the same about would be close to $500. However, that's still a HUGE savings from buying a solid surface material or a real stone countertop. I have really loved my counters! They have yellowed quit a bit in the past 5 years, and I plan to do a little kitchen re-fresh soon that will include new epoxy counters. I'm still not in a position to buy real stone. 🥲 Epoxy is far far better than just painting the counters. It's totally worth your time if your on a tight budget.
I should have used the brand you used. I made my countertop painted white and covered with clear epoxy... it's getting yellow...=(... will redo in the future and use the epoxy brand you used.
Am I the first person to ask about that delicious looking finnish pancake? Also, I looooove the color of your cabinets. What a very pretty kitchen. Do you happen to know the paint color?
yes you are! The finnish pancake is a family favorite and uses a lot of eggs...a good thing because we currently have 29 chickens. My cabinet color is actually an oops paint. However, it's very very close to the color i had on my cabinets previously. It is called graphic charcoal by Behr. I always check the oops bin when i'm at home Depot and one day they had two gallons of this color in satin door and trim enamel so i scooped it up, because i thought it looked so similar to what was on my cabinets.
@@MimzyandCompany Thanks so much for the reply! I think you should do a video making your pancake, haha!Your viewers would eat it up :). And I never would have guessed that color wasn't a dark blue until now! Love it!
What color are the cabinets behind you? I just epoxied my countertops and am getting ready to make cabinet doors i plan to paint and i like the color of your cabinets.
To totally avoid ambering (yellowing), use a polyaspartic coating instead of epoxy. They go on similarly, but the polyaspartic has no yellowing/ambering components. All pure, plain epoxy ambers over time. It is part of the molecular structure. Depending on the light exposure, it could be months or even years, but they all amber. Polyaspartic doesn't have the same structure and won't amber. It is more expensive though.
I've heard of polyaspartic but never used it. I buy epoxy from an epoxy flooring company and they use it in restaurants and stuff. I'll have to ask about it next time I'm there.
Possibly. But that’s why I wouldn’t use it. Because if I’m gonna go through the trouble of sanding it then I may as well leave it matte from sanding instead of using the poly.
Or, the poly was put on after the epoxy had fully cured to a hardened finish. If put on within 24 hours, there should have been a chemical bond taking place between the two substances that would prevent it coming off.
You could probably 220 sand it down and put a top coat sealer made for epoxy. If you put a top coat, it is food safe. If you don't top coat it, probably not.
Beautiful countertop, love it. Do you know if I put on butcher block if it would make it waterproof? I am wanting to build an outdoor kitchen, and would like butcher block to be the countertop, but I know butcher block doesn't work well outside with humidity (I live in Florida).
it'll definitely make it waterproof, BUT epoxy doesn't do well in the sun. I left a piece of epoxied countertop in my driveway next to my trash for a long time intending to go to the dump, and it turned very very yellow, almost brown, because of the sun. And it got a weird texture to it...i assume from the heat of the direct sun also. I live in Tampa...we're neighbors! I dont think epoxy is the best solution for your situation...maybe marine spar varnish might be the answer.
@@MimzyandCompany howdy neighbor! I'm in dunnellon, just a couple hours north of you :-) Thank you for the advice, I will check out the spar varnish like you suggested
Food Safety: once the product is cured (hardened), any chemicals will have off gased. Once it’s hard, it’s food safe. And yes, why wouldn’t you use a cutting board? And a trivet for hot pots! Geez, people spend thousands on a solid surface like marble, quartz etc and still think they should be able to abuse the product like it’s a cheap plastic cupboard from Dollarama. 🙄🙄🙄🙄
If someone is spending a thousand bucks on a countertop they definitely should be able to cut on it, place hot pots and wet drinking vessels on it. Wtf is the point of splurging on a countertop that can’t handle the same thing a 100$ laminate can do
@@Kittypaws90there are no kitchen laminates costing less than $35/sq ft installed. You can install epoxy resin DIY for far less than laminate. Don t abuse any surface.
@@ToddBizCoach okay except I got a 6’*25” for $90 at Lowe’s here in central NH And otherwise we’ve had the same laminate countertop (found FREE on roadside) 20 years ago and ya it has some scratches from knives and some of the print/markings/paint is worn off from general wear and tear.. and btw we are not replacing that countertop, it’s staying we are just adding another countertop to the other side of the kitchen. You’d think the original countertop would be all jacked up by now being a FREE laminate countertop going on the side of the highway but nope lol (heat/food/cleaning/chemicals) actually it’s still in really good condition and no one could tell the imperfections unless they were looking to see them. Soooo no you basically don’t really know what you’re talking about. Lol. Free -100 bucks. You can use a knife. You can put a hot pan. Shouldn’t do anything noticeable for at least 5 years or so. Depends on the traffic of activity but we are not delicate and shits been pretty damn good. sorry if you wasted money on a frivolous thing fo no reason. Laminate all the way otherwise you’re just a rich bitch spending money for no reason and/or just don’t know what you’re doing.
@@Kittypaws90 some people can live with crap and call it good. If you are a slumlord and using it as a rental and could care less, good for you. You obviously don t know that epoxy resin can go over existing laminate. And you don know the cost of doing so.
They sell them as UV stable and that is not true. I never thougth about your thickness theory but that makes sense. The thicker it is the more material you have for the light to effect. They yellow with light exposure. I have my sample board under my counter where is gets no light it is still white and not yellowed. The area around my window is the most yellowed.
@@MimzyandCompany yes, the amount of care and effort I put in and how lucky I got getting them to come out just as i wanted all went up in smoke as time passed and they yellowed. We're in the process of selling the house and literally the woman looking at the house this week kept mentioning how they needed to be fixed...
yes, it did self level. I poured it pretty thick. I recommend spreading the epoxy as thin as possible and do two coats. the thicker the epoxy the more it will yellow.
Question from a newbie....every video I've seen where people say their epoxy has yellowed it's always when they've done the faux white marble finishes. So, will BLACK epoxied countertops have any 'yellowing' ??
No , it’s totally water resistant. I was worried about the sink area because I installed an undermount sink. But I caulked the seam with silicone caulk and it’s held up perfectly. And I’m not careful at all!
Hi there, may I ask if it’s possible to use epoxy to coat a concrete sink? I’ve been planning on making a sink with concrete but I heard it’s porous so it might smell after long period. Thank you 😊
I'm not 100% sure. I've never used epoxy in a sink of any kind so I don't know how it would handle a lot of water. I know it would stick to the concrete just fine. The epoxy around my undermount kitchen sink is holding surprisingly well.
Isn't rustoleum an oil-based paint? I thought water-based paints were the rule for epoxy. Don't get me wrong - they look great. I wanted to use the Rustoleum hammered colors for a project and was warned against it.
YES! Rustoleum is oil based! It's the only kind of paint you can mix with epoxy. Never water based paint mixed with epoxy. It'll leave you with pock marks(holes) in your epoxy. You can use waterbased paint as your base coat but it does need to cure for at least 8 hours before epoxy pour. Revisit that advice you got.
@@MimzyandCompany Mim, Thanks for the clarification!!!!! So, can I use the Rustoleum Hammered spray paint as my base and then pour epoxy over it - that's the look I want.
This was such a good video... Except for the lighting... I say this not to be critical critical, critical. More so because the video is so good, (information etc.) that the fact you can't see everything standouts. Like a broken string on guitar that's playing something extraordinary.
Thank you. I understand. I really need a better lens on my camera . It gets super grainy in low light. And I could use some studio lighting really. I doubt I’d bother with lighting so a better lens is the answer. Thanks for the comment I appreciate the feedback.
I had my counters epoxied about 10 months ago. They are a matte finish but some spots still have a wet tacky gluey look. They do not feel sticky but they look sticky if that makes sense. Can anything be done for this?
hmmm. Not sure what you mean exactly by looking sticky. You can certainly sand them down and pour another coat. that would probably be the only way to resolve that. unfortunately
All epoxy yellows over time due to a natural process called oxidation by exposure to UV light, heat, and humidity. Different brands offer some\better protection that helps the process slow down. However, the best thing that helps is to stay away from whites and or light colors. Yes, white marble looks nice but in time it will be yellow, then it doesn't look so nice. Darker colors also look nice thus making it harder to see the yellowing effect ... thus you have a bigger window (time) when it comes to redoing or just repairing the countertops ... etc.
TL;DR- Epoxy is a terrible idea for a counter top. Epoxy for kitchen countertops is basically like using carbon fibre for a deep see submersible. Epoxy WILL discolour without UV protection, and no epoxy on it's own provides life-long UV protection, which means you need to add UV every year or so, even using a clear coat epoxy like West System's 207 hardener. And it's not the thickness of coats that causes yellowing. It's the thickness of the epoxy. And WTF??? Use a notched trowel to apply epoxy? There's stuff for pouring and then there's everything else. Epoxy is supposed to be applied in micro-thin coats. 1/8" is waaaay to thick. Epoxy WILL scratch, which means microscopic bits will be on the counter-top. MY GOD LADY! using epoxy for food absolutely can be MORE risky than using aluminum. Some of the stuff I see on TH-cam on using epoxy baffles the mind. Builders treat it like some magical material. It's not. It's a plastic resin, the application of which is for layering composite materials. No manufacturer has made a "special" builder-friendly epoxy. Many manufacturers have however made many marketing epoxy, case in point; "mould release". Dunno why everyone buys that spray when industrial manufacturing (ie, automotive, areospace, etc) have used paste wax or car wax for decades prior to DIY'rs getting their grubby hands on epoxy. Whatever problems you have now will pale in comparison to the problems you'll have in another 3yrs. The epoxy itself (strength + bond) will be just fine. Aesthetics... not so much.
wow Sunal!!! Thanks for all the enocuraging words!🙄 BTW I've had these epoxy counters in my kitchen for 4 years, and although they have yellowed, I still love them and don't regret using epoxy on my counters one bit. And everything you said i already knew because I did a lot of research and the man I bought the epoxy from is an expert, as he's been in the commercial epoxy business for more than 40 years. But i appreciate the comment, it helps with my channel engagement.
@@MimzyandCompany Sometimes its positive, sometimes negative. Either way, comments are to draw attention to the video. What a person likes is no one's business, really. However, if I said to you, "how'd you like a counter top that scratches easy, potential to add microplastics to your food, doesnt take high heat well (yes, I know what you said in, but heat deforms all epoxy), will eventually yellow from sun light, and looks plastic?" With exception to the plastic look, cause some people like it, would you be like, "gee that sounds like an awesome product to use as a kitchen counter top!" Epoxy most def has its use-cases and excels at certain things. The amount of TH-cam pretending that it's the end-all-be-all is a problem as it promotes use-cases far outside what the material was designed to do. You can like your project for your own reasons, but promoting a use-case that's in-appropriate for the material.... that's just about clicks and making money off TH-cam. In fairness, you did mention all the down sides, but at 3yrs those downsides are just showing themselves and are only gonna get worse. Id be curious to see a review of your counter top in 6yrs.
You should 10000% be putting a urethane top coat on those. Very badly recommendation. They have gloss and matte top coats, also solidifying the tops and making them scratch resistant.
![Why You Should NOT Do Epoxy Resin Countertops [Do THIS Instead]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qu6FCG6lIZw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Why You Should NOT Do Epoxy Resin Countertops [Do THIS Instead]](/img/tr.png)
Great information here, thanks. I second everything she said here. I did my kitchen a couple of years ago with epoxy and did not like the results. I'm covering it with Formica soon. Mimzy's results were much better than mine. I'm pretty good at carpentry, plumbing and painting, but my epoxy countertop project was a failure. For anyone still considering it, I would suggest the following: Don't do it alone - there's a lot to do and a limited time to do it. Have someone mix and someone else pour. Test your colors on a scrap piece before committing to it on your countertop. Don't allow sunlight on the surface when you're pouring - heat will make the exposed areas cure much faster. Take extra care when measuring - the resin is much more viscous than the hardener and this can make it hard to tell how much of each ingredient is in the mix. Keep your pets out of the room for as long as possible - I had several pet hairs in my countertop. And a few bugs. Don't use painter's tape on the edges - the adhesive isn't strong enough and the epoxy will push the tape away from the edge before it cures. Use regular masking tape instead. Do your backsplash first, then set it in place after it cures. Seal the backsplash/countertop seam with caulk before pouring the countertop, then cover the caulked seam with epoxy so your seal there is epoxy and thus won't stain.
excellent suggestion to install backsplash first!
I LOVE how you did the veining. Better than any of the diy epoxy counters I’ve seen. And I’ve seen a lot 😅
Thank you!!! I went to college for art and ended up painting murals for about 12 years back in the 90’s and early 2000’s. So I got the hang of veining. I like it subtle and realistic.
@@MimzyandCompany, yes I concur. This has to be the best I’ve seen as well. Good work!!
@@PastaSausta thank you!
Thank you for being so honest and thorough!! You have been an enormous help ❤
You’re welcome. Thanks for the comment
The epoxy can be color sanded and buffed to remove most scratches. Applying "Klasse" in the red bottle every few months will remove light scratches and prevent new ones.😊👍
Good to know. Thank you
I don’t think Klasse is food safe…
@yoyomansteve in its liquid intended application form it probably can be a little more toxic than isopropyl alcohol or a candy bar. The acrylic resin left behind is probably the target item once the carrier solvent(s) evaporate, and no more toxic than other acrylates still used in makeup products or other items of similar composition around the house. A little linseed/flaxseed oil after buffing with baking soda and water paste would be a safer and natural alternative if one was concerned. I've been using Klasse since the 80s, with no adverse effects, thankfully. Klasse is manufactured in Germany, and their health concern and safety requirements are very strict in comparison to ours. MSDS for Klasse all-in-one is available online. 😊👍
Today, there are non yellowing epoxies. There are non yellowing white pigments as well. A clear coat for epoxy is totally different than usual polyurethane. RK3 Design has a very good video on clear coat for epoxy, it is called UTC( ultimate top coat), another company called Leggari Products, also sells non yellowing epoxy with non yellowing top coat.
excellent video, I have plans to do an epoxy countertop...very glad I came upon your channel...Thank you
Thanks Thomas, I have a lot of epoxy videos.
Thank you so much for this video. My question is, if you think I could apply resin over a contact paper for counters. I really appreciate the time you take to answer my question.
yes, i think you could. you would just need to totally encapsulate the contact paper so that theres no chance of it peeling anyhwere. I've never tried it myself, but i dont see any reason it would work.
The yellowing line theory is prettt good. However as a painter i have a suspicion that the high spot gets more wear from cleaning than the lower spot.
I would try to sand and polish the low spot and see if that cures the yellowing. It would also confirm if its bc of thickness or its just wear and oxidation/contamination.
my sister bought me some scentsy bars and a yellow one stained my counter... i cant see to get it out but im thinking i may give a light sand and put on another clear epoxy. i love my counters thanks to you!
Bummer. But the good thing is a light sand and a fresh coat is pretty simple. Thanks Kelly!
Good job on this video! I'm about to do my new kitchen island countertop and have learned from your experience. I'm using Stone Coat ART COAT, which has a blue tint in PART A, to give some UV protection. But even then, I'm finding out from the pros it will still eventually yellow. Artisan Design Concepts totally switched from using epoxy to a product called Polykote Enhanced. It's not an epoxy and will never yellow. That's what I'll use after mine does start to look bad. Wish i knew about Polykote before I spent the money.
Ooh...I'll have to look into the Polykote! I've never heard of it! I'm headed to Artisan Design Concepts now. Thank you so much for telling me.
Have you tried “sanding” with a magic eraser and then going up to a 40,000 jewelers sandpaper to get the gloss back? That could get the stain out and if you used an electric buffer the whole counter could be rejuvenated.
Funny you bring that up! I was just watching some of STonecoats videos because I'm about sand my island countertop to make it matte.
Thanks for the tip
Thank you, you answered all my questions even turmeric
funny, yw and thx for commenting.
Beast Bond!!! It’s a winner from what I hear.
Huh! I’ll have to look into that! Thank you!
The additional yellowing is caused by the additional epoxy...basically it's all the same amount of yellowing but the light reflecting from the counter has to travel through more yellow epoxy...like when a cup of coffee looks darker in the cup than when you are pouring it
Ah !!! That makes sense! Good to know.
I did ours 3 years ago and love it
how are yours holding up?
@@MimzyandCompany very well.actually I think it’s been 4 years. I did use stone coat products. I don’t have as much counter space as you have . It did get a stain also with turmeric but a little bleach took it right out. No scratches but I don’t cut on the counters anyway.
@@kc8718 I’m curious about stonecoat. I might try with kitchen refresh.
@@MimzyandCompany I watched a ton of their videos to learn how and the tips and tricks. I will say it was pricey but cheaper than new countertops. I have a hard working kitchen so it’s done well , plus there was no way we can take off our old cabinets. RK3 design is another one I watched that helped
has your countertops yellowed at all? what was your color range. I'm just starting with using the stone coat products for art and I'm wondering what a realistic lifespan is before yellowing and how dark amber they might get. thanks
This was a great video. Thank you for this very helpful info.
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful.
Stone Coat makes Ultimate Topcoat in matte and gloss that protects from heat up to 400* and scratching.
I’m very curious about it. But I don’t have much faith in top coats.
I love their topcoat
Leggari has a great top coat as well as stonecoat
My daughters were able to stain over the sealer with make up ad hair dye. Sanding it down and resealing and covering the counters is what I needed to do after.
I am also interested in the recipe of that yummy looking pancake
ah okay! hmmm...trying to figure out how to deliver that. maybe in my next video?
Did you put a clear coat of epoxy over your color coat of epoxy. It’s recommended. That way any stains can be buffed out of clear not color.
Thanks.
Thank you so much for this. It's so helpful! When you say thin coats, is that 3oz/square foot?
Good question. Not sure how many ounces per foot. I just use a notched tool to make sure it’s thin. Or on smaller projects I use a paint brush to brush it in like paint.
Hi Mimzy! my bathroom is late 90's cultured marble vanity top with sink molded right into it. so the inside of the sink has soap ledges (one on each side) and sink is shaped like a clamshell. and backsplash is also molded as one-piece as well. question: It's 55" x 22" , do you think this would be a good project for Epoxy? It's a yellow-ish white-ish swirled cultured marble. Should I just leave well-enough alone (I can't stand the color though)... or go for it !!! and if go for it, would a white with silver swirls or go black marble, or go white with silver accent swirls, or go white w/black swirls. I will match everything to whatever I do for the sink-top, in other words, I will buy VINLY Plank LVP flooring around the color I go with on the sink-top or vanity (the vanity is a whole other story, it's smooth maple wood cabinetry (I'm thinking of going with a darker blue color perhaps?), open to suggestions on everything. thx so very much in advance!
I think that the integrated sink and backsplash is difficult. The vertical surfaces cause the epoxy to run. So if you want to do a marble like design it doesn't work very well, the color ends up running to the lowest point. It's possible, but it's not ideal, and I wouldn't recommend this as a first project. If it was me I'd remove the whole countertop and install MDF or plywood, epoxy that and install a separate sink.
So can you sand it again, then buff it down to make it even, and then try to re-level it or no
yes, I absolutley could!
I just did some epoxy countertops I poured the backsplashes first and then install them and then poured the flat part of the countertops to kind of lock them in and seal the cracks to make them waterproof so there's no water would be able to leak through after I got done my client brought to my attention that there was some splatters on the backsplash and since I could not remove them and pull them out and lay them flat I am trying to figure out how to bring back the shine because all the rest of them are high gloss and I want to bring that shine back but after seeing what I just saw on your video about polyurethane I definitely don't want to use that so my question is have you ever considered using clear auto paint ever considered using clear auto paint
No, I never thought to use auto paint. If it was me I'd probably just do another thin layer of epoxy over the whole backsplash. Or over the whole darn thing. Just a really thin layer...maybe use a brush to spread it really thin with the help of a heat gun.
Do you think it was worth it using epoxy instead of painting or replacing your countertop tops would you use epoxy again. I think yours still look nice. Thanks for your video
I think it's absolutely worth it! However I didn't pay a lot for my epoxy because I bought mine from a local supplier, so I paid a fraction of what it cost to buy epoxy online from Stonecoat or Total Boat. I paid around $100 for my epoxy. Online to get the same about would be close to $500. However, that's still a HUGE savings from buying a solid surface material or a real stone countertop. I have really loved my counters! They have yellowed quit a bit in the past 5 years, and I plan to do a little kitchen re-fresh soon that will include new epoxy counters. I'm still not in a position to buy real stone. 🥲 Epoxy is far far better than just painting the counters. It's totally worth your time if your on a tight budget.
I should have used the brand you used. I made my countertop painted white and covered with clear epoxy... it's getting yellow...=(... will redo in the future and use the epoxy brand you used.
how long has it been? I think they all yellow...but if you put it on thin it's best.
Great info - thank you!
yw. Thank you for commenting.
This is a useful video. Thanks
I’m glad it was helpful. I’m about to re-do my kitchen counters. Check back 😃
Am I the first person to ask about that delicious looking finnish pancake? Also, I looooove the color of your cabinets. What a very pretty kitchen. Do you happen to know the paint color?
yes you are! The finnish pancake is a family favorite and uses a lot of eggs...a good thing because we currently have 29 chickens. My cabinet color is actually an oops paint. However, it's very very close to the color i had on my cabinets previously. It is called graphic charcoal by Behr. I always check the oops bin when i'm at home Depot and one day they had two gallons of this color in satin door and trim enamel so i scooped it up, because i thought it looked so similar to what was on my cabinets.
@@MimzyandCompany Thanks so much for the reply! I think you should do a video making your pancake, haha!Your viewers would eat it up :). And I never would have guessed that color wasn't a dark blue until now! Love it!
Good job darling, the yellowing advice was good
Thank you
What color are the cabinets behind you? I just epoxied my countertops and am getting ready to make cabinet doors i plan to paint and i like the color of your cabinets.
It’s called graphic charcoal by Behr. It’s a dark dark gray, that sometime looks blue.
Thanks.
Yes, I loved the way my white counters came out at first... 1-2 years later they are horribly yellowed. I have to redo in a dark color.
Yes. It’s seems there’s no avoiding it. My dark counter still looks great though.
@@MimzyandCompany good, I'm going dark as well.
you want to find something with lots of built in UV protection. Stonecoat Art Coat
To totally avoid ambering (yellowing), use a polyaspartic coating instead of epoxy. They go on similarly, but the polyaspartic has no yellowing/ambering components. All pure, plain epoxy ambers over time. It is part of the molecular structure. Depending on the light exposure, it could be months or even years, but they all amber. Polyaspartic doesn't have the same structure and won't amber. It is more expensive though.
I've heard of polyaspartic but never used it. I buy epoxy from an epoxy flooring company and they use it in restaurants and stuff. I'll have to ask about it next time I'm there.
Thanks so much for your tips. About the polyurethane finish, may it cracks apart beacause you should have sand the epoxy prior to application ?
Possibly. But that’s why I wouldn’t use it. Because if I’m gonna go through the trouble of sanding it then I may as well leave it matte from sanding instead of using the poly.
@@MimzyandCompany but the poly prevents scratching
Or, the poly was put on after the epoxy had fully cured to a hardened finish. If put on within 24 hours, there should have been a chemical bond taking place between the two substances that would prevent it coming off.
You could probably 220 sand it down and put a top coat sealer made for epoxy. If you put a top coat, it is food safe. If you don't top coat it, probably not.
I could. But i'm about to do a little reno in my ktichen so I'll re-do the coutners.
This was so helpful! Thank you.
I'm glad this was helpful. I love your channel name btw!
Beautiful countertop, love it.
Do you know if I put on butcher block if it would make it waterproof?
I am wanting to build an outdoor kitchen, and would like butcher block to be the countertop, but I know butcher block doesn't work well outside with humidity (I live in Florida).
it'll definitely make it waterproof, BUT epoxy doesn't do well in the sun. I left a piece of epoxied countertop in my driveway next to my trash for a long time intending to go to the dump, and it turned very very yellow, almost brown, because of the sun. And it got a weird texture to it...i assume from the heat of the direct sun also. I live in Tampa...we're neighbors! I dont think epoxy is the best solution for your situation...maybe marine spar varnish might be the answer.
Florida weather is brutal on wood...check totalboat.com for the marine products they carry. they might have a solution for you.
@@MimzyandCompany howdy neighbor! I'm in dunnellon, just a couple hours north of you :-) Thank you for the advice, I will check out the spar varnish like you suggested
@@MimzyandCompany Oh, wow.
Do you think that's only for direct sunlight?
@@c.9914 yes, outside direct sunlight and Florida heat.
Food Safety: once the product is cured (hardened), any chemicals will have off gased. Once it’s hard, it’s food safe. And yes, why wouldn’t you use a cutting board? And a trivet for hot pots! Geez, people spend thousands on a solid surface like marble, quartz etc and still think they should be able to abuse the product like it’s a cheap plastic cupboard from Dollarama. 🙄🙄🙄🙄
Right!
If someone is spending a thousand bucks on a countertop they definitely should be able to cut on it, place hot pots and wet drinking vessels on it. Wtf is the point of splurging on a countertop that can’t handle the same thing a 100$ laminate can do
@@Kittypaws90there are no kitchen laminates costing less than $35/sq ft installed. You can install epoxy resin DIY for far less than laminate.
Don t abuse any surface.
@@ToddBizCoach okay except I got a 6’*25” for $90 at Lowe’s here in central NH
And otherwise we’ve had the same laminate countertop (found FREE on roadside) 20 years ago and ya it has some scratches from knives and some of the print/markings/paint is worn off from general wear and tear..
and btw we are not replacing that countertop, it’s staying we are just adding another countertop to the other side of the kitchen.
You’d think the original countertop would be all jacked up by now being a FREE laminate countertop going on the side of the highway but nope lol (heat/food/cleaning/chemicals) actually it’s still in really good condition and no one could tell the imperfections unless they were looking to see them.
Soooo no you basically don’t really know what you’re talking about. Lol.
Free -100 bucks. You can use a knife. You can put a hot pan. Shouldn’t do anything noticeable for at least 5 years or so. Depends on the traffic of activity but we are not delicate and shits been pretty damn good. sorry if you wasted money on a frivolous thing fo no reason.
Laminate all the way otherwise you’re just a rich bitch spending money for no reason and/or just don’t know what you’re doing.
@@Kittypaws90 some people can live with crap and call it good. If you are a slumlord and using it as a rental and could care less, good for you.
You obviously don t know that epoxy resin can go over existing laminate. And you don know the cost of doing so.
They sell them as UV stable and that is not true. I never thougth about your thickness theory but that makes sense. The thicker it is the more material you have for the light to effect. They yellow with light exposure. I have my sample board under my counter where is gets no light it is still white and not yellowed. The area around my window is the most yellowed.
Huh. Well that’s proof of the light theory. It is disappointing that they yellow so much.
@@MimzyandCompany yes, the amount of care and effort I put in and how lucky I got getting them to come out just as i wanted all went up in smoke as time passed and they yellowed. We're in the process of selling the house and literally the woman looking at the house this week kept mentioning how they needed to be fixed...
Did it self level for you? How thick was the pour you did?
yes, it did self level. I poured it pretty thick. I recommend spreading the epoxy as thin as possible and do two coats. the thicker the epoxy the more it will yellow.
Question from a newbie....every video I've seen where people say their epoxy has yellowed it's always when they've done the faux white marble finishes. So, will BLACK epoxied countertops have any 'yellowing' ??
They probably do, but due to the dark color you can’t tell it’s yellowed.
Stains are the result of missing to apply polyurethane to sealed the water or any liquids.
hmmm. ok
Any way to get out a stain that is under the epoxy? Missed it when I poured... Or the pour brought the stain out
Lol yes, time travel.
Do water damage it. How does it hold up at the sink area.
No , it’s totally water resistant. I was worried about the sink area because I installed an undermount sink. But I caulked the seam with silicone caulk and it’s held up perfectly. And I’m not careful at all!
спасибо
Hi there, may I ask if it’s possible to use epoxy to coat a concrete sink? I’ve been planning on making a sink with concrete but I heard it’s porous so it might smell after long period. Thank you 😊
I'm not 100% sure. I've never used epoxy in a sink of any kind so I don't know how it would handle a lot of water. I know it would stick to the concrete just fine. The epoxy around my undermount kitchen sink is holding surprisingly well.
Isn't rustoleum an oil-based paint? I thought water-based paints were the rule for epoxy. Don't get me wrong - they look great. I wanted to use the Rustoleum hammered colors for a project and was warned against it.
YES! Rustoleum is oil based! It's the only kind of paint you can mix with epoxy. Never water based paint mixed with epoxy. It'll leave you with pock marks(holes) in your epoxy. You can use waterbased paint as your base coat but it does need to cure for at least 8 hours before epoxy pour. Revisit that advice you got.
@@MimzyandCompany Mim, Thanks for the clarification!!!!! So, can I use the Rustoleum Hammered spray paint as my base and then pour epoxy over it - that's the look I want.
How many coats of polyurethane did you use? Maybe that's why it's chipping.
Only one. That could be the case.
This was such a good video... Except for the lighting... I say this not to be critical critical, critical. More so because the video is so good, (information etc.) that the fact you can't see everything standouts. Like a broken string on guitar that's playing something extraordinary.
Thank you. I understand. I really need a better lens on my camera . It gets super grainy in low light. And I could use some studio lighting really. I doubt I’d bother with lighting so a better lens is the answer. Thanks for the comment I appreciate the feedback.
I had my counters epoxied about 10 months ago. They are a matte finish but some spots still have a wet tacky gluey look. They do not feel sticky but they look sticky if that makes sense. Can anything be done for this?
hmmm. Not sure what you mean exactly by looking sticky. You can certainly sand them down and pour another coat. that would probably be the only way to resolve that. unfortunately
Thank you, very thorough review. Friendly FYI… the correct pronunciation of Turmeric is: TURR-MARE-ICK 👍
Ah! Thank you!0
All epoxy yellows over time due to a natural process called oxidation by exposure to UV light, heat, and humidity. Different brands offer some\better protection that helps the process slow down. However, the best thing that helps is to stay away from whites and or light colors. Yes, white marble looks nice but in time it will be yellow, then it doesn't look so nice. Darker colors also look nice thus making it harder to see the yellowing effect ... thus you have a bigger window (time) when it comes to redoing or just repairing the countertops ... etc.
Yes. I agree with everything you said. 😁
For countertops that don’t yellow, PolyKote Enhanced by Savage Patriot Polymers.
Thanks for the tip!!!
The link for the epoxy seems to lead to boba straws??
hmm...lemme check
yep, most certainly was. sorry about that. I changed it to go to Total boat directly.
@@MimzyandCompany thanks for the speedy reply! Great video ☺️
Sounds like there was no top coat used after top coat was poured..
That is correct.
Stonecoat!
too expensive!!!! but thanks!
although if they gifted me some, I'd def put it to the test.
They would!
Shoot them this video and ask them. Best of luck to you. Thank you for the video.
@@SatinSkies2011 Huh. Maybe I'll give it a try since I'm about to do a kitchen refresh. Thanks!
"buff" liquid bartenders cleaner to get matt finish..
You didn’t answer the yellowing question. 😭
that's for you to decide. But yes they yellow.
I did answer the yellowing question at 8:14.
actually 8:11
The ring….heat it up with a heat gun
Huh. I never thought of that! Great idea!
red wine stain
TL;DR- Epoxy is a terrible idea for a counter top. Epoxy for kitchen countertops is basically like using carbon fibre for a deep see submersible. Epoxy WILL discolour without UV protection, and no epoxy on it's own provides life-long UV protection, which means you need to add UV every year or so, even using a clear coat epoxy like West System's 207 hardener. And it's not the thickness of coats that causes yellowing. It's the thickness of the epoxy. And WTF??? Use a notched trowel to apply epoxy? There's stuff for pouring and then there's everything else. Epoxy is supposed to be applied in micro-thin coats. 1/8" is waaaay to thick. Epoxy WILL scratch, which means microscopic bits will be on the counter-top. MY GOD LADY! using epoxy for food absolutely can be MORE risky than using aluminum. Some of the stuff I see on TH-cam on using epoxy baffles the mind. Builders treat it like some magical material. It's not. It's a plastic resin, the application of which is for layering composite materials. No manufacturer has made a "special" builder-friendly epoxy. Many manufacturers have however made many marketing epoxy, case in point; "mould release". Dunno why everyone buys that spray when industrial manufacturing (ie, automotive, areospace, etc) have used paste wax or car wax for decades prior to DIY'rs getting their grubby hands on epoxy. Whatever problems you have now will pale in comparison to the problems you'll have in another 3yrs. The epoxy itself (strength + bond) will be just fine. Aesthetics... not so much.
wow Sunal!!! Thanks for all the enocuraging words!🙄 BTW I've had these epoxy counters in my kitchen for 4 years, and although they have yellowed, I still love them and don't regret using epoxy on my counters one bit. And everything you said i already knew because I did a lot of research and the man I bought the epoxy from is an expert, as he's been in the commercial epoxy business for more than 40 years. But i appreciate the comment, it helps with my channel engagement.
@@MimzyandCompany Sometimes its positive, sometimes negative. Either way, comments are to draw attention to the video. What a person likes is no one's business, really. However, if I said to you, "how'd you like a counter top that scratches easy, potential to add microplastics to your food, doesnt take high heat well (yes, I know what you said in, but heat deforms all epoxy), will eventually yellow from sun light, and looks plastic?" With exception to the plastic look, cause some people like it, would you be like, "gee that sounds like an awesome product to use as a kitchen counter top!" Epoxy most def has its use-cases and excels at certain things. The amount of TH-cam pretending that it's the end-all-be-all is a problem as it promotes use-cases far outside what the material was designed to do. You can like your project for your own reasons, but promoting a use-case that's in-appropriate for the material.... that's just about clicks and making money off TH-cam. In fairness, you did mention all the down sides, but at 3yrs those downsides are just showing themselves and are only gonna get worse. Id be curious to see a review of your counter top in 6yrs.
@@sunalwaysshinesonTVs I'm about to do a little kitchen refresh and I plan to re-epoxy my couters again, so stay tuned.
That’s a pot cake 😂
what's that?
@@MimzyandCompany a pancake in a pot lol
@@HDR_America ah yes!!!
You should 10000% be putting a urethane top coat on those. Very badly recommendation. They have gloss and matte top coats, also solidifying the tops and making them scratch resistant.
I tried and it did NOT stick. Can you recommend a product that works????
Its rust ! Lol. Come on man. I can see that.?