Dude has got to be an aerospace engineer, judging by the number of rivets. It would be funny now to see one built by a naval engineer: 1/4inch steel plate and arc welded structure.
to his credit - this would make a nice DIY kit if the sheet metal parts were pre-fabbed. Shouldn't even be too expensive... And yes, the guy definitely either designs or builds planes, so many pop rivets :D
@@AKAtheA yea i was watching it and was like awesome ingenuity but F man chill out LOL a couple regular fasteners would've been WAY easier to fabricate for and on the hands LOL nm made it more serviceable but the machine itself is awesome looking
@Broski Snowski It's a SLOW printer with a rigid frame. Therefore totally wasteful. You can build extremely rigid frame but in won't help if the rest of it not up to task. It's slow and you can easily see that end of the video where it's operating is accelerated about 4-5 times. Bowden tube extruder with rigid mechanics is a total waste of said mechanics.
@@woopsserg I could see potential in making it corexy, direct drive and klipper... probably a slighter lighter x rail and it will do decent quality speeds at ridiculously fine quality
That is a really inspirational build, very different tools and materials then most builds and that makes it extremely interesting. Thanks so much for sharing
very inspiring remembering techniques that have worked for decades. Easy to forget that basic tools with a bit of fit and finish can produce high accuracy! Thanks
Question .....do you have a parts list for the electronics , the boards and stepper motors and the stepper motor drivers .....very impressed with the heated bed you built and do you have a schematic for that...any info would be greatly appreciated
Ok, what are the speed, build volume specs on this monstrous masterpiece? This is a 3D printer you could use to support a couch with people on top, if things didn’t get in the way! Nice build.
Hi Alexey, I admire your eye for details! Beautifully done. P.s. smart to use u-profiles for the bed, I don't know if you did that intentionally; but I guess it might help to reduce warping of the bed! What is the kind of heat resistant silicone you used? (the red one)
So many questions! Firstly very well done, the time it took along with all the effort is outstanding! This machine can easily use high speed servos and run at insane speeds! First question! What is it about the rivets? Cost effective or rigidity or just your style? Second question! Are you at all attempting a dual hotend? Third question: how many weeks or months did it take you to do all this?? I built many custom CNC machines and they take at least a year to finalize a design concept I am happy with then 3 weeks in time to put together. I am obviously amateur compared to your abilities.
JBweld and square sand power resistors for the bed heater! Been there and done that. Mine had the resistors connected in series-parallel and ran off of a 44 volt power transformer from an old multi-channel audio amplifier. Bed drew about 300 watts. Bang-Bang control using a relay in the transformer primary. I tried using a solid state relay, but they kept burning out (solid state relays fail in the ON state, not good!) BTW what is that red gunk used to insulate the heater?
@@yourt00bz It would called it properly engineered. Most commercial or DIY 3D printers out of those V-slot 2020 or 2040 extrusions are underengineered. Not for turtle speed printing though, but it shows when you start pushing them into the 150-200 mm/s range or when you'll constantly have to level the bed. My opinion is that if you need BLtouch or regular bed leveling, then it is underengineered, and we haven't talked about accellerations and dynamic forces yet.
@@moczikgabor so modelling resonance like engineers might. Solving some things through software by dynamic compensation of bed topographic nets and others through established engineering techniques for harmonic noise etc
hello Alexey. I really liked your 3d printer project. really nice work. if possible can you share your cad drawings for free? I also want to make my own printer. thanks.
Ну Алексей! Я, конечно, насладился вашим видео! Ваш принтер - просто произведение искусства! Настоящий DIY! Ни то, что собрать из готовых профилей :))))) Однако, некоторые решения мне показались странными: 1) Почему боуден? Да ещё и такой слабый фидер! У вас же супер крепкая рама, вам хоть полкило на голову повесь, всё равно он сможет достаточно быстро печатать! А плюшек от директ экструдера всё-таки много. Тем более с вашей зоной печати, где боуден трубка будет под метр, я подозреваю. Откат будет миллиметров 7! 2) Вы приклеили стекло к столу?! А если повредите? Стекло вообще не всегда подходит для печати - иногда нужно чтобы у модели была матовая поверхность, а стекло даёт глянцевый эффект. 3) На стол желательно ставить термопредохранитель. Мало ли реле даст дуба и зависнет в постоянно включённом состоянии... Тем более, что мощности у вас с запасом! 4) У вас привод оси Z идёт ремнем, а у вас редуктор там есть? Или привод идёт прямо шкивом на оси мотора? 5) Точность концевика по оси Z меня сразила (16:25)! Это обычный оптический концевик? Или что-то более хитрое? 6) Отсутствие охлаждения зоны печати будет очень сильно ограничивать возможности принтера. Даже ABS иногда требует охлаждения... 7) Я правильно понимаю, что у вас хотэнд V6? Вам его будет сильно не хватать. В него желательно не давить больше 11-12 мм3/с. Хорощо бы Volcano Хоть практической ценности такой принтер на мой взгляд не имеет, всё равно я просто поражен вашим проектом! Подписываюсь и колокол ставлю! Интересная машиностроительная школа: трубчатые профили, заклёпки... Хорошо, что не сварка :)))
You have a very different approach. Also the electronics and software you used are unfamiliar. But you brought it all together and it works beautifully. You should consider upgrading your extruder it’s not on par with the rest of your build.
Can I ask why you put so much work into making the frame so excellent but then chose the electronics you did? What influenced the extruder type decision? Why a long bowden tube instead of direct drive? I'm sure your x gantry would be capable of carrying the added weight of the extruder. Also why a cantilevered bed? Very interesting build but many of the design choices don't make sense to me. Good video though. And I applaud you for your work ethic putting in all those rivets must have been interesting.
Well, that is some stiff and robust construction for sure. Precision printing like I have never seen. I think your next upgrades could be ball screws and you wouldn't be ridiculous to get expensive ones for a printer like this.
I'm not sure if that counts as a printer so much as beautiful industrial art. That could appear in an art-gallery! You don't tend to see H-bots because the popular wisdom is that they put a lot of torque on the top part of your printer. For reasons not clear to me, the Core-XY design is supposed to overcome that. Of course, with the strength of your frame, that might not be an issue.
Well, it is veny nice rigid design. I have a very high respect for the manual skill for this build, and it is amazing in that regard. On the other hand it is most overegineered crap I ever seen. Legacy V6 hotend, bowden ender style extruder, only 1 Z motor, no auto bed level, and electronics is just 10 years outdated. Also with the rivits and another factor is a sheer number of them if it ever need any maintanace it is impossible. Well it is a shame, becouse with this skill and effort put in the machine it could be the best FDM 3D printer ever build.
Dude that printer is beast especially the motherboard and hotend bro very nice build? Did you personally create that model from scratch? And how much did you spend on materials in total? Are you going to release a BOM list for your specific build for those who would like to build one like yours? I really like your linear rails system and how it works like a belt driven and core xy printer it's awesome 👍😎
Haha i understand that you like alu but there's absolutely no point putting a heatsink on the Arduino Due processor. On the Orange Pi, RAM and WiFi chips don't need heatsinks either. The H2 processor chip doesn't take a heatsink very well (plastic chip enclosure, low thermal conductivity, flip chip design - the semiconductor is at the very bottom) but it can benefit from cooling. Though i suggest doing the opposite and cooling the backside, by attaching a 2mm thermal pad and isolating where else needed just in case with Kapton and then plonking it on a big old piece of alu or copper. An extra heatsink top side doesn't hurt though, but there's no point putting one on anything but the processor.
This thing is a monster. What made you go this over a traditional route like a voron? What constraints were you trying to overcome? If I had to add a couple things...a beefy remote part cooling fan with an umbilical to the hotend would look sick here, and obviously direct drive. That gantry is beefy! Surely a place to hide if you have an earthquake incoming. Bravo!
if you are referring to the printer frame, I think you can throw that thing from the tenth floor and it will be even better. So nothing to fix. Everything else is, as I can see, easily accessible for repair. That thing was designed like a German tank, because the Russian ones apparently didn't perform very well.
Dude has got to be an aerospace engineer, judging by the number of rivets. It would be funny now to see one built by a naval engineer: 1/4inch steel plate and arc welded structure.
It can print while being air-dropped from the back of a cargo plane
to his credit - this would make a nice DIY kit if the sheet metal parts were pre-fabbed. Shouldn't even be too expensive...
And yes, the guy definitely either designs or builds planes, so many pop rivets :D
@@AKAtheA yea i was watching it and was like awesome ingenuity but F man chill out LOL a couple regular fasteners would've been WAY easier to fabricate for and on the hands LOL nm made it more serviceable but the machine itself is awesome looking
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I give you the award for most rigid 3D Printer!
Holy overkill.
I give an award for most wasteful but not very good.
@Broski Snowski It's a SLOW printer with a rigid frame. Therefore totally wasteful. You can build extremely rigid frame but in won't help if the rest of it not up to task. It's slow and you can easily see that end of the video where it's operating is accelerated about 4-5 times. Bowden tube extruder with rigid mechanics is a total waste of said mechanics.
@@woopsserg I could see potential in making it corexy, direct drive and klipper... probably a slighter lighter x rail and it will do decent quality speeds at ridiculously fine quality
@@woopsserg He also uses it as a CNC
this is probably the most overbuilt 3d printer I've ever seen, great job 👍
might be overbuilt but damn that thing will withstand anything lol, I love seeing projects like this.
That is a really inspirational build, very different tools and materials then most builds and that makes it extremely interesting. Thanks so much for sharing
that heat bed is going to be a pain if any of those solder joints gets brittle lol, Interesting use of cement power resistors. cool build
No problems in 5 years th-cam.com/video/YiUrMOHO_J8/w-d-xo.html
very inspiring remembering techniques that have worked for decades. Easy to forget that basic tools with a bit of fit and finish can produce high accuracy!
Thanks
the best 3d printer frame i've ever seen
I would have approached some things diffrently but overall that is a CLEAN build, very nice. 👍
when you have stocks in a rivet company:
Question .....do you have a parts list for the electronics , the boards and stepper motors and the stepper motor drivers .....very impressed with the heated bed you built and do you have a schematic for that...any info would be greatly appreciated
Amazing project and construction!! Congratulations!
Its very impressive seeing a new printer without all the groupthink. I like the frame construction.
I like this term groupthink. Imagine your own way and do it
That was awesome and inspiring. Good work 🙂
Pretty epic build, well done!
when he stood on it, I got scared. Not for the printer, but for his safety.
I really like how you build the heated bed!
Would like to know what resistors and what volts does it support 😱😱
This is a masterpiece 👏
awesome build man !! congrats
The man with the most violent shake printer😮
Great work!!
This looks like something mad max would have. Also interesting to see soviet connecting terminal used for heated bed :D
I have been staying tuned for over a year now
What do you call the brackets you use to join the structure at 90deg angles? I really like how they are pre punched for easy drilling.
This is an ordinary aluminum corner, I cut it to size and drilled holes.
Ok, what are the speed, build volume specs on this monstrous masterpiece?
This is a 3D printer you could use to support a couch with people on top, if things didn’t get in the way!
Nice build.
How do you have only 65 subscribers?? You're amazing man!
очень здорово, но есть пара вопросов: не раскрыта тема обдува модели и из каких соображений такая плотность заклёпок на соединениях профилей?
Стандартные клёпанные равнопрочные соединения, откройте таблицу шага заклёпок и вопросы отпадут, пла не печатаю, обдувом не пользуюсь.
Well done, @Alexey!
Hi Alexey, I admire your eye for details! Beautifully done. P.s. smart to use u-profiles for the bed, I don't know if you did that intentionally; but I guess it might help to reduce warping of the bed! What is the kind of heat resistant silicone you used? (the red one)
The tubes are hollow so you still get some vibrations, how about filling them with putty or resin?
nice! not quite sure about what applications systems alike would have apart from ultra high precision applications, but still it is really neat
Awesome build bro❤❤❤
this took DIY to a new level.
So many questions! Firstly very well done, the time it took along with all the effort is outstanding!
This machine can easily use high speed servos and run at insane speeds!
First question! What is it about the rivets? Cost effective or rigidity or just your style?
Second question! Are you at all attempting a dual hotend?
Third question: how many weeks or months did it take you to do all this??
I built many custom CNC machines and they take at least a year to finalize a design concept I am happy with then 3 weeks in time to put together. I am obviously amateur compared to your abilities.
JBweld and square sand power resistors for the bed heater! Been there and done that. Mine had the resistors connected in series-parallel and ran off of a 44 volt power transformer from an old multi-channel audio amplifier. Bed drew about 300 watts. Bang-Bang control using a relay in the transformer primary. I tried using a solid state relay, but they kept burning out (solid state relays fail in the ON state, not good!) BTW what is that red gunk used to insulate the heater?
Probably this: Permatex 59403 Red High Temperature RTV Gasket Maker
Is there any chance you would share your design? I would absolutely love to build this! Please let me know!
Who need's CNC when have precise eyes and hands 💪🏻 great design!
I must admit this was so entertaining to watch and the about of rivits is unreal but dang it looks good. Very nice build. Unique.
Geneal work super.thanks
pretty cool, i just think it needs a few more rivets.
how much does this cost compared to the vslot way to do ?
Dude how is this not more popular… absolutely insane design
Well you could make a decent cnc with the effort and price here...
@@eldricliew6223 it is over engineered [nothing wrong with taht i love it] and takes huge amounts of skill
@@yourt00bz It would called it properly engineered. Most commercial or DIY 3D printers out of those V-slot 2020 or 2040 extrusions are underengineered. Not for turtle speed printing though, but it shows when you start pushing them into the 150-200 mm/s range or when you'll constantly have to level the bed.
My opinion is that if you need BLtouch or regular bed leveling, then it is underengineered, and we haven't talked about accellerations and dynamic forces yet.
@@moczikgabor so modelling resonance like engineers might. Solving some things through software by dynamic compensation of bed topographic nets and others through established engineering techniques for harmonic noise etc
cost 3x as much as traditional frames
Nice job!
Moving is only possible with a forklift 😂😂😂 top jpb 👍👍👍👍👍
now that is piece of art
incredible job, congrats!! overengineered for 3d printing but not if exchangeable tools are the main purpose, as i expect.
thanks for sharing
Yes, there will be interchangeable heads.
hello Alexey. I really liked your 3d printer project. really nice work. if possible can you share your cad drawings for free? I also want to make my own printer. thanks.
This is so extremely well done and inspiring!
I do wonder how many holes he had to drill in total xD
Excelent craftsmanship . I would have done the bed heater a little diffrently but excelent job nontheless .
impressive with all those rivets
Wow! Great looking 3d printer. A bit overkill, but hey why not as long as it works.
I find this build extremely riveting
Nice video bro
😳🙏
Some of us are makers.
Alexey is a Grand Maker.
Bravo!😀
Ну Алексей! Я, конечно, насладился вашим видео! Ваш принтер - просто произведение искусства! Настоящий DIY! Ни то, что собрать из готовых профилей :)))))
Однако, некоторые решения мне показались странными:
1) Почему боуден? Да ещё и такой слабый фидер! У вас же супер крепкая рама, вам хоть полкило на голову повесь, всё равно он сможет достаточно быстро печатать! А плюшек от директ экструдера всё-таки много. Тем более с вашей зоной печати, где боуден трубка будет под метр, я подозреваю. Откат будет миллиметров 7!
2) Вы приклеили стекло к столу?! А если повредите? Стекло вообще не всегда подходит для печати - иногда нужно чтобы у модели была матовая поверхность, а стекло даёт глянцевый эффект.
3) На стол желательно ставить термопредохранитель. Мало ли реле даст дуба и зависнет в постоянно включённом состоянии... Тем более, что мощности у вас с запасом!
4) У вас привод оси Z идёт ремнем, а у вас редуктор там есть? Или привод идёт прямо шкивом на оси мотора?
5) Точность концевика по оси Z меня сразила (16:25)! Это обычный оптический концевик? Или что-то более хитрое?
6) Отсутствие охлаждения зоны печати будет очень сильно ограничивать возможности принтера. Даже ABS иногда требует охлаждения...
7) Я правильно понимаю, что у вас хотэнд V6? Вам его будет сильно не хватать. В него желательно не давить больше 11-12 мм3/с. Хорощо бы Volcano
Хоть практической ценности такой принтер на мой взгляд не имеет, всё равно я просто поражен вашим проектом!
Подписываюсь и колокол ставлю!
Интересная машиностроительная школа: трубчатые профили, заклёпки... Хорошо, что не сварка :)))
Very creative and nice printer! Congratulations!
Thanks
awesome
Was it worth it?
How rigid do you want the frame?
YES.
I wouldn’t be suprised if he wrote all the music himself too… constant eargasm through my air maxes 🎧🤣
I have a sudden feeling of inadequacy.
Seems like you like rivets 😁😁
How is the Arduino mega able to control the 3d printer? It has enough processing power?
It's an Arduino Due, 32-bit ARM MCU .. plenty of power, probably more than needed..
Awesome work buddy. Aviation engineer by any chance?!
You have a very different approach. Also the electronics and software you used are unfamiliar. But you brought it all together and it works beautifully. You should consider upgrading your extruder it’s not on par with the rest of your build.
Man, what are you going to print with that beast?? Leopardtank-parts? T34-parts? What a beast!!!!
this must be a real sturdy printer that can survive an apocalyps or two ^^ nice work but for my liking a bit too much rivets
Amazing work! Hats down!! What was approximate cost of the build?
Approximately 400$
I see aluminium was on sale
The only way it could be more rigid is filling the frame with concrete
Can you sell it
Gusset master!
Printer with best aerodynamic
This is fucking incredible.
Can I ask why you put so much work into making the frame so excellent but then chose the electronics you did? What influenced the extruder type decision? Why a long bowden tube instead of direct drive? I'm sure your x gantry would be capable of carrying the added weight of the extruder. Also why a cantilevered bed? Very interesting build but many of the design choices don't make sense to me. Good video though. And I applaud you for your work ethic putting in all those rivets must have been interesting.
The frame is so rigid because an interchangeable milling head will be mounted on it. I'm still experimenting with the extruder.
@@alexey. Good Job !!! Try to Direct Drive, especially if you planning print to TPU or other elastic filaments
not enough rivets though
That's freakn awesone. Great build
What happens when you have to fix something???
You created a monster.
tak przekombinowanej drukarki to jak żyje nie widziałem
Very very very good wow!!!!!!•••
Well dude, you were pretty damn hard core about that.
Скажем пока универсальности, собираемости и перпендикулярности
That printer is nuclear blast proof
I'd like that thing at home, but even if I can build that monster, I don't have the space and tools. And I hate bowden extruders... 😀
I think we need a count. How many rivits were used in the creation of this beast and what do your forearms look like before and after? Haha
2200 rivets used
And people say the Voron V0's build volume can't be expansed because of the cantilever bed...
Well, that is some stiff and robust construction for sure. Precision printing like I have never seen. I think your next upgrades could be ball screws and you wouldn't be ridiculous to get expensive ones for a printer like this.
I'm not sure if that counts as a printer so much as beautiful industrial art. That could appear in an art-gallery!
You don't tend to see H-bots because the popular wisdom is that they put a lot of torque on the top part of your printer. For reasons not clear to me, the Core-XY design is supposed to overcome that. Of course, with the strength of your frame, that might not be an issue.
Well, it is veny nice rigid design. I have a very high respect for the manual skill for this build, and it is amazing in that regard. On the other hand it is most overegineered crap I ever seen.
Legacy V6 hotend, bowden ender style extruder, only 1 Z motor, no auto bed level, and electronics is just 10 years outdated. Also with the rivits and another factor is a sheer number of them if it ever need any maintanace it is impossible. Well it is a shame, becouse with this skill and effort put in the machine it could be the best FDM 3D printer ever build.
The bed heater was amazing, felt like an example of sanction busting. Can’t get the new boards I’ll just grind my PCB, old schools…
Dude that printer is beast especially the motherboard and hotend bro very nice build? Did you personally create that model from scratch? And how much did you spend on materials in total? Are you going to release a BOM list for your specific build for those who would like to build one like yours? I really like your linear rails system and how it works like a belt driven and core xy printer it's awesome 👍😎
Yes, I designed it from scratch, later I will post a list of materials and cost.
@@alexey. right on man keep up the good work 👍 can't wait to see the list and see if it's in my budget
Needs more rivets...
hola, por que borraste los demás videos?😳
No eliminé nada, este es mi segundo canal.
@@alexey. gracias por la aclaración, acabo de encontrar tu primer canal 👉 Самодельный Экструдер на 3D Принтер , me había asustado en vano 😅
это была реклама заклёпок?
Haha i understand that you like alu but there's absolutely no point putting a heatsink on the Arduino Due processor.
On the Orange Pi, RAM and WiFi chips don't need heatsinks either. The H2 processor chip doesn't take a heatsink very well (plastic chip enclosure, low thermal conductivity, flip chip design - the semiconductor is at the very bottom) but it can benefit from cooling. Though i suggest doing the opposite and cooling the backside, by attaching a 2mm thermal pad and isolating where else needed just in case with Kapton and then plonking it on a big old piece of alu or copper. An extra heatsink top side doesn't hurt though, but there's no point putting one on anything but the processor.
Лёха- технарь международного уровня!
Маньяк он, международного уровня)))
dude it's building a 3d printer frame ready for space flight
This thing is a monster. What made you go this over a traditional route like a voron? What constraints were you trying to overcome? If I had to add a couple things...a beefy remote part cooling fan with an umbilical to the hotend would look sick here, and obviously direct drive. That gantry is beefy! Surely a place to hide if you have an earthquake incoming.
Bravo!
This is a universal 3D printer, I also use it for milling.
Hey Alexey, the project is amazing. We want to feature it on our channel (with proper credits), if it sounds good then kindly reply.
Did someone say unrepairable?
Which part?
if you are referring to the printer frame, I think you can throw that thing from the tenth floor and it will be even better. So nothing to fix. Everything else is, as I can see, easily accessible for repair. That thing was designed like a German tank, because the Russian ones apparently didn't perform very well.
Ok! Now do one with 3 Z axis drive motors on bed! I want to be your pop-rivit salesman! 😂