Tying The North Branch Caddis with Kelly Galloup
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2019
- Kelly developed this pattern on the North Branch of the Ausable in Northern Michigan. Nearly everything in the North Branch Caddis is made from deer hair with the exception of a few turns of hackle in the head, which makes it extremely buoyant and also relatively easy to tie.
You can purchase individual North Branch Caddis here: www.slideinn.com/product/gall...
Galloup's North Branch Caddis Recipe
Thread: 12/0 SemperFli Nano Silk - www.slideinn.com/product/semp...
Hook: TMC 100 - www.slideinn.com/product/tmc-...
Body: Short-Fine Deer Hair - www.slideinn.com/product/natu...
Wing: Short-Fine Deer Hair
Hackle: Brown or Dark Barred Ginger - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
As rookie, I really appreciate the talking because I don't have to pause between sets 😆. Absolutely love the commentary
You are the only tier on the YT i have seen so far that can hold my attention the whole time. Even i have been tying for 20years now.... i always hear something new from your videos your advice is gold.... Thank you for your videos.
Cheers
Vladimir
Great video as always. Love the extra tips..Superglue cut on finger..trim cardboard corners on feathers..and Don’t do it like Kelly, do it right 😂. You are the best fly tier and teacher I’ve ever seen. It absolutely helps us out. Thank you! 🎣
Not all Legends are myths, some live amongst us🏆
I'm cutting the corners off every one of my hackle cards tonight. Great fly and all around fly tying tips as always! Thanks Kelly!
Cant wait to christen my new stacker with a bunch of these. The fly is going to be awesome once this runoff chills out. Thanks Kelly, You're the man!
Love your videos and explanations. There is a reason for every step in your designs and you’re hilarious. ‘Never clip your heads!’ I’ll now remember that forever
Thanks for not editing out your mistakes. Sometimes it's good for a sausage fingered Midwestern farm boy to see that others, even the professional, have their moments too. I'm currently taking five and watching your channel due to frustration while tying elk hair caddis.
Kelly has another unsinkable Caddis, the Butch Caddis. Great producer easy and fun to tie. Love your videos, Kelly.
Kelly it was an awesome experience stopping by to check out the shop and chating for a few. Great advise about using deer hair for caddis. Thanks for tolerating the kiddos as well.
Great instruction, you explain very well the nuance of tying process and what the fly is all about.. thanks man! J
Awesome tips as always! I really appreciate your videos, they have helped me immensely
This caddis fly is very similar to the Bushkill Caddis from Eastern Pa. Always worked for me. Good vid.
Love the bobbin holder antler!
Simple, fast tie with a few common materials that fishes well, it doesn't get any better in my opinion.
We don’t count your mistakes. We just keep track of the “Johnies”.😆
Should also work on my home water in the ausable River here in NY. The Adirondack mountains and rivers are so beautiful
Al Troth is credited with the origin of the "elk hair caddis". Troth plamered the hackle from thorax to tail over the body then secured the hackle with a counter wrapped rib which is seldom done by tyers today. Frank Johnson, who had the Missoula fly shop during the 70s, started adding a short tail and underbody of elk hair to keep the bend of the hook from dragging during the drift of the fly. Johnson is most famous for fishing and promoting muddlers like the Missoulan Spook.
Great bug the construction reminds me of your ultra caddis would you consider doing an updated tutorial on it great tips with hair as usual
Terry Nab, there's a blast from the past. "Fishing the Dry Fly as a Living Insect", Leonard M. Wright, 1971. How do I know? It's on my bookshelf, one of dad's books. Nice BHA t-shirt.
Your dad is the one who told me about Leonard and that I should read it, I found it a big assumption that he thought I could read.
Since you mentioned it this morning, I'm reading it again now. Pretty insightful book.
Masterclass..
Except for the hackle (that's a pretty big 'except'), this fly is one I used to buy at Ray's in
Grayling a long time ago, a _real_ long time ago. The version he sold had no hackle. The wing was pretty full and flared/spun about 180 degrees on the hook to provide stability. One variation had a white wing. We fished it at night on the Au Sable and Cedar. My best fly- caught brown came on it. Another version had two long tail fibers, probably intended to imitate the Hex. I could never get the body right, too thin, too loose, too tight, whatever. With your video, maybe I'll be able to get it now. Thanks.
3 Things in order of importance.
1. Kelly--how often do you move you desk? Seems every time I watch it is somewhere else!
2. The tubular body is really important apparently. I had a conversation about that on Sat while fishing my friend's Ausable Ugly with success.
3. The little details you describe and work through (and demonstrate with human reality) are so enormously helpful! As in, "yes, I can get there--I'm allowed to make mistakes and back it out and retry--Kelly even did that!"
String, everytime I add onto the shop I seem to move it, going to stay there for awhile. As for the human reality goes: hell man, I go go backwards more than most. KG
Reallly like the tips you give on your videos. Like the look of this fly better than elk hair caddis. Can it be used instead?
Vinny, Absolutely. thanks for watching. KG
I've caught DOZENS of browns and rainbows on my 2 trips to the Madison on a size 16 Elk Hair Caddiis..with Elk Hair as the wing.
You do a great job of explaining the reasoning behind the techniques you use. I liked this pattern so much I cranked out some 16s, 18s, and 20s. I’m pretty happy with how they turned out visually but yesterday I tied one on made a few casts and noticed my tippet was twisted all to heck. I replaced the fly with another and noticed my tippets was again all twisted up. Anyone have any insight as to what I’m doing wrong? I’m not sure whether my wing is too heavy or long and the unbalance sets it to spin on the cast or what...
KR either the wing is to long or your tippet to light. Thanks, KG
I was fishing 5X which should be fine with the sizes I tied so it’s likely the length of the wing. Thanks Kelly, it’s a really buggy looking pattern. Back to the vice it is
You are self deprecating enough to be funny lol. Don't beat yourself up too much man- awesome tie, great pattern.
I was thinking about this buoyant dry fly pattern, and the other recent one, the Ant Acid pattern, and Kelly's comments too about what happens in the middle of a Caddis hatch. It can be frustrating, that thing of having caddis flies around, trout taking them, with the classic elk hair pattern tied at the end of a leader and being completely ignored by the trout. Remember another one of the successful patterns in countries where the rivers have ample supplies of caddis flies in Scandinavia, is the Klinkhammer. Again, another weird looking fly to be sure, and one that can take a lot of trout, when it appears that a lot of winged adult caddis flies are around. What I like about the Klinkhammer pattern too, is that tied well (I like the versions made using the Cul De Canard feathers), the Klinkhammer patterns tied on to a leader can be hard to sink. The Klinkhammer patterns are also easy to make. I would mind seeing what a Klinkhammer version of this North Branch Caddis fly would look like, dressed on a slightly different kind of hook. And dressed with the Deer hair body as shown.
Mostly though when I look at these various trout fly dressings, I'm reminded too of Lee Wulff's lessons about dry fly fishing for salmon which he wrote way back in the fifties. Where he found it desirable to present his fish, albeit the much larger Atlantic salmon variety with dry fly patterns that made a different kind of silhouette, and made a different footprint on the surface of the water, from the fish's point of view. Lee Wulff would often cover his fish with maybe half a dozen different 'shapes' of flies (shape that is, in terms of the foot print, silhouette and visual signature), that his fly would make on the water. Often times, when he'd covered his fish with maybe six different shapes of fly, he could return to the initial fly, maybe sized down a couple of sizes and 'take' the fish on the fly that it had originally shown interest in, but rejected.
There's another side to this too, which maybe deserves a mention, and that is something that can work in parallel to the change in the fly pattern and the shape of the fly, or how it would float on the water surface. That is the cast. Some trout just seem to be willing to take more risk, and take a dry fly which has apparently dropped in from the river bank edge and got trapped in the surface film (i.e. making a lot of that movement in the film), than a well presented fly that is presented to the same trout and drifts perfectly down the main corridor of the river's flow.
I often think, there are basically two styles of dry fly fishing. One where 'the drift' is all important and tackle is all reduced down to the lightest possible strength, in order to maintain the drift for as long a distance and as long a duration as possible. That is a style of dry fly fishing, where casting isn't all that important at all, except in terms of getting a fly out there on the water. Most of the 'work' happens from that point onward, in terms of being able to simulate a natural that has landed on the water surface. The skill happens from that point onward. And then, there is the Lee Wulff style of dry fly fishing. This is where the 'taper' of the leader, and being able to change the silhouette of the fly shape matters, and being able to vary the speed, direction and approach of the cast to the trout. This fly, the North Branch Caddis, and probably the Ant Acid fly, fall into this category.
I'm reminded terribly of two different casting approaches, when I look at the Ant Acid, and the North Branch Caddis. One fly rod and fly line cast, is very much an exaggerated 'vertical' plane cast. The other kind of fly rod and line cast, is an exaggerated 'horizontal' plane cast. With these dry flies that have radically different silhouettes, shapes and floating characteristics to them (bearing in mind, that the Klinkhammer type of fly that I mentioned, and which can also prove useful in times of caddis activity), it just doesn't stop with choosing a fly from the fly box, that will float and act differently 'on the water'. It can also help to think about these changes in fly pattern, in terms of changes to the fly casting approach.
With the Ant Acid in particular, simply because it's got this strong silhouette of these rubber legs that are designed to spread out in all directions, I'm reminded of fly rods, fly lines and carefully designed tapered leader approaches, that can cast a fly at least ten feet or more above the surface of the water, and that can allow that fly to very slowly kind of 'parachute' from the atmosphere, down on top of the water surface. This change of approach in terms of how one presents the fly, can often result in a break in the dead lock, when dealing with a difficult trout. Another cast though, and the particular kind of fly cast that the North Branch Caddis reminds me of is a sideways cast. For some reason.
What is the durability like on the abdomen? Would imagine brown trout teeth would rip the thread eventually?
You'll have it in the trees long before then.
The Found Link is a similar fly and is pretty durable. If you want, you can put a
Small amount of UV resin on the abdomen to help it hold together
So many of his flies are so "thick" because he fishes the(fast, choppy) Madison so often. Caddis I tie for Wisconsin much more streamlined.
Thats like a #10 hackle(by a gauge).
BHA, public land owner!!!
The secret to this type of fly is getting the right amount of hair for the body, then wing. If you keep showing #14 because you don't think we could see a #16 or #18, we really don't get the proportions for hair amount......
The North Branch Caddis looks like a slight variation of the North Branch Drake at this link. th-cam.com/video/Ml8Vdk9z-f4/w-d-xo.html
He is human!
Never caught a fish on a elk hair cassis? Really?
you talk and stutter way too much, get on with it already
Mike, you are way too good for my stuff. You shouldn't waste your time on my site. KG
@@TheSlideinn what ever dude your videos would be better if you could stop talking and stuttering so much, get to the point show people how its done, don't talk about it so much just do it. Also you seem to get side tracked way too much, you start talking about one thing and then you get side tracked and start talking about something else and never get back to what you were originally talking about. slow down, finish one subject then move on, don't jump about with so many different subjects. one thing at a time. I'm trying to help you understand so that you can have a better YT presence. I also see you talking about what not to do then you make those very same mistakes that you are telling people not to make, maybe you should just not talk about making those mistakes at all. In short get to the point, show how its done, then move on without all the talking and stuttering
@@urbancorpse5547 Just wanted to thank you for your honest remark Judge Judy, well take your points into consideration.
-Jeremy
@@TheSlideinn surprised you didn't stutter and stammer your way thru that super weak insult. I gave you some honest feedback about your videos and you choose to be an ass about it instead of taking in strife. But I see you are incapable of being a "MAN" about anything and instead you choose to stuttering and stammer your way thru life. If you could stop the stuttering and stammering and get to the point you might actually have a decent channel. but NO you are incapable of doing that and incapable of taking honest feedback what it is pointed out to you. stop talking some much, you just keep putting your foot in your mouth even time you open your mouth, learn how to stfu
Mike Judy, your negative unsolicited comments and criticism are way too long. Just write and post your crap and move on. Don’t take this the wrong way I am just trying to help you be a better troll and and waste of input. You complain and claim that your crap is constructive criticism but you don’t support or substantiate the elements of your observation. See how there are a dozen “I appreciate the extra dialogue and detailed explanations = Why” to your one troll tribute comment, I believe that if your advice was heeded than the production would be degraded or lost in the plethora of other videos with just music in the eyes of the viewing base.
See what I did there, I told you and showed you why you are wrong
Try to be a better person, you are welcome