ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2017
- Hi guys,
In this video, i will talk about all the checks and tests you need to
do before your first print with the TEVO TORNADO.
These checks and tests are important to make sure everything runs smooth.
The printer is delivered mostly built but during transportation, some screws and parts might come loose
and that's why we need to check before it runs.
NOTE: in the bed levelling section of the video, i mention to use an 1mm thick paper but what i really mean is to use a 0.1mm thick paper.
Hope this helps you guys.
If you like my work and want to contribute, please access my patreon page.
/ ruiraptor
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Feel free to join:
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/ ruiraptor
tevo tornado printer available here:
www.aliexpress.com/item/2017-...
Music by:
Right On Red by Audionautix is licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Artist: audionautix.com/ - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I've been coming to your channel for a few days now looking for information. Looks like I found the right place! SUBSCRIBED!! Thanks! Your channel has a wealth of useful information!
Hi,
Thank you so much for your feedback :)
Any questions let me know
I just built a Tevo Tarantula. What print settings do you use? I was using Cura but they messed it up & it wont open most of my models. Do you know where I can get profile info for Ideamaker? It looks like a better slicer.
Hi, sure. Please email me at ruiraptor.channel@gmail.com and i will send you my ideamaker profile.
Email sent! Thanks a lot!
Tyvm I'll rewatch this video before my TEVO arrives next mounth
I really appreciate your post well done. It appears to be very thorough.
i was waiting for videos about this printer
Thanks so much for all the good advice.
Thanks for a clear and precise checklist.
Thanks :)
Thanks for the helpful insite and instructions on the tevo. Any chance you could link what you used for the build plate? I'm having a hard time finding a plate with the dimensions you used in this video.
Thanks very much for this video. I just bought this Tevo. Nice to know all this stuff. My 3 week old delta printer broken after only 3 weeks is waiting to go beck to China.
Hi,
Thank you for your feedback.
don't forget to subscribe. I have many cool videos coming up very soon.
Oh I certainly did subscribe. Gave thumbs up too.👍👍👍👍👍
Do you have a video on the software & how to use it? It would be nice to see how to deal with features that may need support as well. Thanks!
Hello, does anybody or you know, where the D4 pin is, on the tevo tornado mks base 1.4, i cant find any pinout of it! Please help
Great info. Just ordered a tornado today. If the bed screws are still an issue I may try to drill an indent rather than a complete hole so the top surface is complete and smooth.
Hi Raymond,
It will not be easy to do that because the bed is made of a glass material and can crack/break easily.
What I am saying is the piece of glass you put on top. Rather than drill all the way through just drill part way. Just enough for the screw heads to clear on one side but not enough to go all the way through.
Hi, Really your video is very helpful. Here, very difficult to remove the object after printing, even the test print also very difficult for me. Can i apply any glue on bed surface? If i fix glass on the bed the thickness off the glass also occupy ''z'' value, here how can set auto leveling?
Thanks I was not sure if there was
What is dimension of Glass and Holes? Thanks and Congrats
Boa Noite, está interessante mas na organização dos cabos talvez no futuro meter umas correntes. O vidro é que podia ter furado só até meio com uma dremel com um esmeril cilíndrico, água e um bocadinho de paciência. Na verdade nem sei se é possível ir "mais além" mecanicamente do que o estipulado de fábrica.
Your videos are always instructive. My tornado is pushing out the tube from the extruder. I cut the filament and removed the fitting that screws into the extruder housing. It does not grip the tube anymore. Looks like .25 NPT to .125 tube fitting
Hi Brian,
Thanks for your comment.
The fitting is a PC4 and I normally replace the stock ones as I know that they don't last long. Also, these are cheap so having a few as spares is not a bad idea :)
@@ruiraptor thanks. Got the new fitting. Works again
@ruiraptor can you provide a link to the strips or their official name ?
How can you tell when the glass surface has reached temperature? Does it translate the heat or do you have to compensate i.e. set bed for 65 for glass to reach 60 etc.
Hi,
You can get a non-contact thermometer and check the first time it heats up if your glass heat ups fast. I normally use a higher temperature (5 degrees C normally) to compensate the glass.
slt , ruirapor dommage qu il n ai pas de traduction en français ?? !!
A paper that's one millimeter thick? Is the software set to go lower later?
I always calibrate my printers at 0.25mm so I have a great adhesion to the bed. With one millimeter, I think all my prints will fall of the bed.
Hi,
I meant to say 0.1mm thick. I wrote that in the description. My bad ;)
Hello, I try to find info but there is not too much about an issue happened to me. I just purchaces a Tevo tornado this week and right now the table shows a diference in level at the center, as is the flat table had melt and hangs a little bit (no more tha 1 mm) arround the center, which stands the same lavel than the corners. Has it happened to you something like that? do you know if it is normal?
Increible Manzo
Your sheet is coming off. You can just replace it or just remove it and print directly on glass (under the green /red sheet you find a glass bed)
I have zero problems printing directly on the stock surface. It sticks very well with no glue needed. I just make sure the surface is clean and the nozzle height is correct and that my first-layer print settings in my slicer are correct.
Hi George,
Thanks for the feedback. The filament sticks well on the stock surface. The issue is that you need to use a spatula to remove it afterward. The biggest issue is the air bubbles that appear under the stock sheet if you raise the bed temperature above 75 degrees.
What are you first layer height settings?
I need to upgrade to an all steel nozzle to print carbon impreg nylon. Can you recommend one that fits?
Hi,
That is a very abrasive filament. The best choice would be the famous ruby nozzle (if you have budget for one),.
With a tight budget, i would go with an MK8 microswiss nozzle.
Do you print with the masking tape on the glass or was that just to help protect it while you were setting it up?
Hi,
In all my printers I bought a glass to put over the heatbed. This has many advantages.
And to increase the adhesion, I use masking tape on it. Never fails.
You can also buy a print surface to glue on top of the glass like printbite, gechotek, builtak, etc.
These print surfaces are expensive at first but much easier and cleaner to use.
What are your thoughts about the safety of having mains voltage going into the bed? Is it adequately protected with earthing? What safety mods are required?
Hi,
i had commented this before in one of my videos and my feedback is the following:
The AC wires that connect to the heatbed go all the way in the protective insulation foam. There is no way to reach the copper from the wires unless you remove the insulation foam. The heatbed itself is made of glass which is non conductive. In my assembly, i secured the cables that power the heatbed to the first bed spring. It acts as a strain releaf preventing the cable from being pulled or stressed from the back and forth moving of the bed.
Regarding the metal structure, sure, i can agree with you about the possibility of being grounded. That can be done easilly though.
Although the design seems pretty safe, as a precaution, I used a Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor (GFCI) A.C. outlet just in case the hot wire shorts to the chassis somehow, perhaps because of worn wire insulation or a loose connection somewhere. It seems like a reasonable step to take, considering that mains voltage is going to moving parts of the printer.
I've had my Tornado for a week and have printed a few very small and low things fairly well. As I move upwards, the printing gets poorer and starts developing a shift. I think your guide here may provide me the answer. Thanks a bunch
Hi Lex,
Thanks for the feedback.
Feel free to check my other tornado videos :)
ruiraptor I definitely will
Where did you find the Bora Glass for the Tornado? and who cut the holes out for you?
Hi Marc,
My glass in not bora neither tempered. I have a normal glass. I normally go to a local glass manufacturer and request my glass sheets for the printers there. I can get normal or tempered at a cheap price. In this case, i ordered a normal glass and asked them to make the holes. The glass was 4euros and the cut/drill process was 3euros...meaning that the glass with the holes was just 7euros. If i wanted tempered was only 1 more euro.
What size holes and what exact location distance do you get the holes cut pls
Nice
can someone give me the stl or gcode file for the spool holder for the tevo tornado?
Hi Fabrizio,
Send me an email to ruiraptor.channel@gmail.com and i will reply with the file.
you didnt explain the process for leveling the bed you only said use a piece of paper. thats not really much to go on, does it need to have some resistance or have the paper able to slide under, what do i do with the paper?
Hi,
The paper will be your tool to find the correct distance between the bed and the nozzle.
You should adjust the bed so that you have a small resistance on the paper.
did you flash/update the firmware or just use it stock?
Hi Dylan,
I'm using the stock firmware.
@@ruiraptor still new to all of this, your videos are great. Question i have had a few people in the fb tornado group indicate I'm jumping into this with out tuning and calibrating. I've been looking for things i need to do before printing. I watched your video on "what to do before you print" and will make the adjustments on the hardware. I am going to calibrate the steps tonight , but some people talk about replacing the Z coupler, and "freeing" the z axis. Why would i replace this, it seems to work fine, and what would I "free" the z axis from? I'm not one to make changes to something that function ok, i just dont know what I'm looking for and what issues it might be causing so to prompt a replacement. Am I making any sense? lol
Also why would I flash the firmware? what is wrong with the stock, even in the instruction book it talks about flashing your firmware.
What grease do you use?
Charmanjoe ,
I use lithium grease. It's the best for these leadscrews
Thanks buddy
Hi Daniel,
Glad i can help :)
What type of glass did you use?
Hi,
I'm using a 4mm thick normal glass. I have a local glass manufacturer and i requested the glass with the 4 holes. They asked 4euros for the glass and 3euros to drill the holes.
ruiraptor , good to know. There’s a debate over using Borosilicate Glass, but I don’t imagine the heat bed would get hot enough 220~230c to warrant the use of that glass.
I never used that. Only normal and tempered glass and they work fine.
I need to replace the hit end thermistor do you know what kind they are?
In the firmware is defined in the configuration.h tab the thermistor you have. You can check the correct specification there.
@@ruiraptor so I tried to flash it to Marlin and my tevo blinks but goes back to normal. I'm not certain I have seen the actual firmware.
I think my windows 8 laptop hasn't correctly loaded the drivers. I m not a Facebook user and finding help outside that is hard.
For the firmware, you can get the stock firmware here: github.com/tevo3d
When you compile the firmware, does it compile correctly without errors?
@@ruiraptor at first it didnt had lots red memory errors didn't like the port. My lap top updated and I got a new h marlin file off of GitHub and it says no errors I can try the original firmware
1 mm thickness for leveling ? Isn't that to much ?
Hi Cristi,
Yes, you are correct. I mention this in the video description. It was a mistake :)
Oh man, I just bought a second hand Tornado and it has several modifications, I'm kind of scared to use it XD
Don't be scared :)
Turn the printer on and start printing and see how it goes.
buy a piece of glass that is 300mm x 300mm, the screws are not in the build area......
You can not see the screen of the tornado's power source, what can I do? It looks only blue. THanks for the vid! I suscribed.
Hi,
Does the screen light up? Try to rotate the contrast potentiometer (little hole on the left side under the display) and see if it helps.
Hey, thanks. I checked the power box and the potentiometer is damaged. I will have to replace it but I do not know what value the potentiometer has.
How do you like it so far?
Hi Will, yes...i like it so far. I will start my first print today and will gather more information. My full review will be soon posted.
It's pretty cheap here - for 329.99 USD with coupon code: TornadoUS，www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_725101.html?lkid=11829967， Sweet！
Wow seems a lot more involved than I thought 3D is not that easy you make it seem like I just can't buy one take it home assemble and start print which is what I want
There are plenty of other 3D printers which require no building or adjusting. Many work out of the box
It's just a $3,000 box... ;-)
You dont need a glass plate because the heating bed is made of tempered glass. Thats because screws are not flushed.
Hi John. I know that the heatbed is made of glass.
The thing is that (like in all my other printers) I like to have the option to remove the print surface out.
I also recommend people to follow this procedure as it’s safer and less mechanical stressful to the machine and axis.
But…if you can buy a print surface like printbite+, buildtak or others, then you can apply it directly to the bed as the print easily pops up when the bed gets cold.
Very sad that this video is 2 years old and Tevo has done no quality updates to this unit. They still put on the build tack that people end up stripping off or covering with another sheet of glass.
This model is not for the first time user. Its not even a good unit for your second go around. Remember these reviewers are probably getting paid or free equipment. It wasnt free for me. And the lack of customer support does not help. I say lack of, the have a facebook group with help like, "buy this upgrade", "print these axis supports", "change your gcode", and "be patient, you'll get there".
If you are willing to struggle with a machine after youve put out the $300 plus, then I can think of better machines to buy.
do you recommend and one with the same range of price !, i hope you can help,
That threw me off with the 1mm thickness, was watching on my PS4 and couldn't see comments or anything lol.
Hi Daniel,
Yeah...sorry about that. I only noticed the mistake after uploading the video :(
It's all good. =)
That glass with the holes in Boro is over 150 dollars I found. OUCH!
The Best Stooge
I don't use boro...I use normal glass or tempered glass. Works great
Let me tell you when you have a sheet of glass shatter in your hands (almost like it explodes) you will know why I went to boro.
The Best Stooge
I can tell you that I work with these type of glasses with many printers and for over than a year with no issues ;)
Well, I prefer Boro because when I have it at 110c and I spray cold on it I don't need to worry of it exploding on me but YMMV.
This applies to all 3d printers
Hi John,
I have a more complete one for all the printers here:
th-cam.com/video/XpMFLjDaCtI/w-d-xo.html
I want one!!! Are you sending me this one?
Charlie Metcalf wtf
After dealing with Tevo with a lemon that won't print without 3rd party addons I would not recommend buying this printer.
Not only did they mess up shipping me a replacement bed and extrduer gear, not shipping it out for weeks until I bugged them about it, but when it finally got here it was a bent bed, totally unusable.
Buyer beware on Tevo products.
One pi##ed off guy doesn't make a bad printer
Yeah, too bad its not just me.
That paper is not 1mm. It would have to be a type of cardboard to reach that thickness
Hi Felipe,
You are correct. It was a mistake that I mention in the video description.