Great...finally someone showing how to ground the whole printer as bed and x axis are isolated by the v slot wheels. Let's hope more companies get this as standard. Only thing people have to remember to connect their printers to grounded outlets...just remember Angus video about the MK3 where he messed it up. In most European countries we have high sensitive fuses so with that mod we should be safe. But as far I understand these fuses aren't mandatory everywhere in the world so still be careful with AC power.
Thanks buddy. I wanted to make something valuable for the community. Hopefully peple do this right moving forward. Great point on the need for correct cabling and especially powerboards!
Invaluable advice for everyone. As an ex-electrician, mains voltage heated beds have always concerened me for newcomers, purely because of the risk of electrocution, more so here where we have 240v mains. Having said that, I do plan to install a mains bed on my CR-10 S4 when I can find one at a reasonable price, but for the moment, the stock bed is working fine.
I've been searching through the available information to help me decide which 3D printer to buy, This and your original TH-cam video on the Tornado have helped me to decide to get this one. Thank you.
You have become my fav 3D printing channel. Knowledgeable and to the point. I will be getting the Tevo in your video because of it. The Tevo is also a full $300+CAD cheaper than a CR-10. Thanks again!!
I have one of these and I put-off assembling it for months due to safety concerns (bought it drunk lol). So far, mods include: new Meanwell psu, fuse at 3.15a not 10a (10a is WAY too high), strain relief, earthing, re-wiring the box because it ships with both the fuse and switch on the neutral (this means the psu is at mains potential unless unplugged from the wall even if the power switch is off), bltouch, glass bed etc, rcd plug). Tbh, the more I work on this printer, the less I want to use it. The solid state relay is dirt cheap, the silicone heater has no thermal fuse (or means of attaching one). If the solid state relay fails short (which is the most common failure mode) then there is absolutely nothing to stop the silicone pad reaching ridiculous temperatures very, very quickly and a disaster would be both fast and serious. I barely let it out of my sight when printing. There is a way to shut off the power with Octopi using the Temperature Failsafe and TP-Link Smartplug plugins if the temperature goes out of bounds. If you want to do this, instructions are here: github.com/jneilliii/OctoPrint-TPLinkSmartplug/issues/59 However, as well as forking out for a Rasperry Pi and Smartplug, you will likely need a hot air rework station to replace the fake FTDI chip on the Tornado's mainboard. The Pi's drivers are not as tolerant of fake chips as Windows. On my MKS Base V1.4, the fake FTDI chip it shipped with lead to repeated communication timeouts and failures over serial, making it useless as a safety system. In fact, the fake chip was so rubbish that I could only update the firmware with a 32 bit Windows 7 laptop. If you are having a headache upgrading firmware, this could be why lol. I also made an stand-alone Arduino monitor if you want to share and improve: th-cam.com/video/n-JgQ3SaVME/w-d-xo.html Long story short, even with these mods, I just cannot relax around this printer and will probably end-up re-working the heatbed to 24v. I see TH-cam videos of people going out and leaving them running and think they must be nuts. It would not be difficult (or expensive) for the vendor to fit a thermal fuse to the silicone heater. I looked into it but attempting to modify it would likely expose the user to higher risk as the wires are buried in the silicone pad risking damage. If anyone knows a way to do it though, please share. Shame really, it is pretty, has a good build volume and produces good prints but I'm sticking to my other printer for the time being as just not feeling it. Good luck all.
Thanks for the detailed, knowledgeable post. I think you've convinced me to upgrade the SSR when I do the ll in one. I'll check out the Octoprint plugin too.
Love your videos! New to 3d printing and you've helped a lot. Quick question. I have that exact TEVO Tornado and cannot get my BLTouch working right. What exact version of the BLTouch is the one in this video? I've seen there is a classic, and a few different iterations of the "Smart" version. I have the newest one I assume. So hard to find the correct documentation since every version is slightly different when setting the Z-Offset. Thanks!
Grounding my Tornado was something I was going to do myself but after watching Ruiraptor TH-cam video on this subject as well as going on the Tevo forum on FB, I opted not to do this as from what I found out every home has circuit breakers fitting by law, this will actually kick in if there is a short, so the chances of getting a shock is quite slim, having said that if an after market or if Tevo come out with a fix you can integrate rather then scratching a perfectly good machine I will buy it, the strain relief though is a must.
For my Hypercube Evolution build I will add a mechanical relay before the SSR as a circuit breaker.. These SSRs are known for failing in closed state. So the bed will continue to heat with full power even if the mainboard will stop heating because of thermal overrun. The Klipper firmware allows me to define a pin that gets low on problems, that will open the mechanical relay and the bed stops heating. Your grounding would help in this case only if the silicone heater has already melted and the wires will get contact to the frame.
I have this printer and love it. You do not need to ground it. There is a better way. Grounding is not going to do much. If the bed wire does break inside the thermal putty, ends up somehow getting through the barrier to touch the other wire, youll have a short and a fire, or lets say only one wire comes out, touches frame etc. Grounding may work, BUT the BEST way to to just install a GFCI outlet, as soon as the wire breaks, or any wire, the outlet is tripped, turning off the printer completely.
Great video and I'm subbed to your channel for the future improvements your planning. This printer offers a lot above the CR10, especially the heated bed. But the lack of safety cut off worries me a bit... But great if you come up with a thermal fuse or some other solution. Thanks again I'm looking forward to next installment...
Hi Quadplay, thanks for watching. In case you missed it, there was a follow up with a large nozzle. All in one will take more time to develop. So many videos to make, so little time..
Thanks for sharing 😀👍 A good project 👍 Yes, this is a great way to make the printer safe. The mains heated bed was the reason for choosing Ender 3 in my case. And yes, am a electronic engineer...
Thanks for the informative video, I'm considering one of these, but I think I'll wait to see what you come up with for integrating the electronics into the sub frame. I really don't like secondary control boxes on printers.
Hi Michael, I finally got the gold tevo tornado and have started doing the upgrades, I definitely want to make this an all in one printer with better wire management. I'll be looking forward to what you come up with. Thanks
IMO mains AC is the best way to power large beds like this. With DC you need a lot of current to heat this size bed. Using wire of the appropriate thinkness is not an option for moving bed designs so they end up being undersized. Add to this the risk with burning connectors etc... Done right AC is much better. The changes you made seem pretty essential to safe AC operation though. Really poor design that they dont do this as standard.
Did you ever make a video on how to install a new headed pad on the Tevo tornado. I know it is dangerous. So I want to watch some videos first. For my Tevo Tornado 2018 edition printer. I would love to get a heater pad that already has the Resister/fuse and Thermistor installed. Therefore all I will have to do is install the 2 wires. I have replaced the PS for a better Meanwell power supply. And My on/off switch went out so I replaced that as well. Why do I want to replay the pad you might ask; because I want to add a Aluminum Bed. My tevo glass bed is at least 20c -40c lower than the temp should be. My other printer, a Ender 3 Max, has a Aluminum bed. With the Glass top sheet installed it is also way off temp. I tried placing my BuildTac aluminum sheet with Garolite top sheet on the Ender bed directly on top of the Aluminum bed. Much, much closer temp readings. Now on My Ender Printer it is only off a few degrees c.Thank You!!
I would still not buy this printer because it’s sold unsafe from the factory. But you did a good job in this video! This mods are must for every owner. Looking forward to see your next upgrade and what this printer will become at the end :-)
Hello, I know this video is for the tevo and not the ender 3, but the creator of ezabl said grounding my printer can help the sensor. I was just wondering what wiring are you using? Any gauge wire I find is not nearly as flexible as what you have showing and the stiff type I have has me worried with the way it bends as the bed moves (if it is even the correct type).
Both work well. A printed extruder wheel on top like I covered in 7 more Ender 3 mods has similar usability improvement. Tornado extruder has more torque, however.
Hi, what are your thoughts on magnetic flexible printing beds? I see you can buy magnetic sheets on ebay for pretty cheap. If you search youtube for it there are some DIY. There are also some made for 3d printing, but the ones I've seen has been seriously overpriced. It looks very conveniets to just take the printing plate of the bed, bend it and the print pops off. I saw one guy using lexan too, but I really like the magnetic plate idea. Seems to me like the best printing bed solution, but I have not tried it. Would be cool if you made a video on it, just a suggestion, I think there might be some interest for it cause there aren't that many DIY magnetic printing bed videos out there...might draw more viewers to your channel.
Oh, I saw one guy had another sheet above it so the print sticks better. There are sheets for this that are made for 3d printing that aren't too expensive. I saw some made from 3M company.
I'm actually about to test an Easy Peelzy magnetic bed on and Ender 3. It is very cheap compared to the Builtak flexplate which I made a video on previously.
A safe way would be maybe the robot arm from iron man that's the fire extinguisher AI 🤔😁 with scanning the heat build up and have the ability to cut the power if and also a Co2 extinguisher in ther arm. 😬
Are you still working on making this AIO? I’m Extremely interested in doing the same but unfortunately I don’t have the design skills to make the parts myself.
Hi! Our house doesn't have grounding (it's an old architecture where it wasn't planned). So we use two contacts only. What you can recommend on this? I use Tevo Flash and plan to make a strain relief to it's bed's cable too.
If they want to send me one I'd love to make all kins of guides for it. Watching Joel's video now. At this stage my channel is still too small to justify spending that much coin (and Mrs Teaching Tech will kill me).
The diagram at 7:00 is wrong for the Tevo Tornado 2018/Gold - it is impossible to put the black and white wires there because that is the "z- end stop": www.robotrebels.org/gallery/16_08_07_17_6_14_14.jpeg and that is already filled with a connector. I attempted to put the BLTouch black/white wires into the z+ end stop, but now I can't decrease Z no matter what. Ah, you're supposed to remove the existing z- end stop connector, and then plug the BLTouch in the z- end stop position. That works for me.
This begs the question of why Tevo can’t take the time to properly design the electrical requirements of a 3D printer. The customer base they are marketing to are largely unaware of the electrical danger lurking there
i hope the next time you have your car worked on they only fix part of it be caused they fixed one like it be fore. its next to imposable to find a step by step bltouch install with firm ware how you did a ender doesn't help me at all.
its a110volts, it cant kill you. hurt like hell yes, but not kill. its ac so its not going to make your muscles contract either. STILL this is very important to do for the bed. it prevents fires and all other stuff
If I have a 3D printed All in One case mounted to the underside of the bed, do I still attach the grounding wire to screw that holds the PSU in place inside the case. Here is the case I'm using www.thingiverse.com/thing:4287626
I actually heard earth and ground in the states growing up. Though my grandpa was an engineer and so are a fair number of my friends so that may be why
Bizzare method of having a black earth cable coming forward when having it come from the back with the rest of the cables is so much more sensible. But clearly you're not a qualified electrician which truly alarms me that you find it appropriate to hand out advice on electrical systems. Another note, you need to use a proper crimp tool to crimp electrical connections with a compression die, not those hobby store things that just crush it into submission.
I guess it comes down to whether you think what I have shown is unsafe? The better question is: would a person's 3D printer be more or less safe after following the video? Also, can't remember showing my crimping tool so well done for knowing all about it.
Teaching Tech well considering it’s on the table where you’re working it’s obvious you’re not using the appropriate crimp tool. Also you are aware the FW will see a drop in temp that it can’t recover from shutting off the SSR. But you’re welcome to offer electrical advice all you want. Just do the right thing and obtain the appropriate license to do so.
I'm really not one to argue on the internet but my two questions remain. Someone can use the printer as is or they follow my video and improve its safety substantially. Would you have me delete the video over relatively small details?
![[UNCUT]“ฅนตื่นธรรม”ปะทะ“หมอปลา-ปู่มหามุนี-อั๋นโอกิ”สะเทือนกระทรวงเวทมนตร์ Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I10 ตค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/peMD_SAkwNc/mqdefault.jpg)
Great...finally someone showing how to ground the whole printer as bed and x axis are isolated by the v slot wheels. Let's hope more companies get this as standard. Only thing people have to remember to connect their printers to grounded outlets...just remember Angus video about the MK3 where he messed it up. In most European countries we have high sensitive fuses so with that mod we should be safe. But as far I understand these fuses aren't mandatory everywhere in the world so still be careful with AC power.
Thanks buddy. I wanted to make something valuable for the community. Hopefully peple do this right moving forward. Great point on the need for correct cabling and especially powerboards!
Invaluable advice for everyone. As an ex-electrician, mains voltage heated beds have always concerened me for newcomers, purely because of the risk of electrocution, more so here where we have 240v mains. Having said that, I do plan to install a mains bed on my CR-10 S4 when I can find one at a reasonable price, but for the moment, the stock bed is working fine.
I've been searching through the available information to help me decide which 3D printer to buy, This and your original TH-cam video on the Tornado have helped me to decide to get this one. Thank you.
You have become my fav 3D printing channel. Knowledgeable and to the point. I will be getting the Tevo in your video because of it. The Tevo is also a full $300+CAD cheaper than a CR-10.
Thanks again!!
Hi Andrew, high praise and I appreciate it. Look out for more modding videos on this one in future.
I have one of these and I put-off assembling it for months due to safety concerns (bought it drunk lol). So far, mods include: new Meanwell psu, fuse at 3.15a not 10a (10a is WAY too high), strain relief, earthing, re-wiring the box because it ships with both the fuse and switch on the neutral (this means the psu is at mains potential unless unplugged from the wall even if the power switch is off), bltouch, glass bed etc, rcd plug).
Tbh, the more I work on this printer, the less I want to use it. The solid state relay is dirt cheap, the silicone heater has no thermal fuse (or means of attaching one). If the solid state relay fails short (which is the most common failure mode) then there is absolutely nothing to stop the silicone pad reaching ridiculous temperatures very, very quickly and a disaster would be both fast and serious. I barely let it out of my sight when printing.
There is a way to shut off the power with Octopi using the Temperature Failsafe and TP-Link Smartplug plugins if the temperature goes out of bounds. If you want to do this, instructions are here:
github.com/jneilliii/OctoPrint-TPLinkSmartplug/issues/59
However, as well as forking out for a Rasperry Pi and Smartplug, you will likely need a hot air rework station to replace the fake FTDI chip on the Tornado's mainboard. The Pi's drivers are not as tolerant of fake chips as Windows. On my MKS Base V1.4, the fake FTDI chip it shipped with lead to repeated communication timeouts and failures over serial, making it useless as a safety system. In fact, the fake chip was so rubbish that I could only update the firmware with a 32 bit Windows 7 laptop. If you are having a headache upgrading firmware, this could be why lol.
I also made an stand-alone Arduino monitor if you want to share and improve:
th-cam.com/video/n-JgQ3SaVME/w-d-xo.html
Long story short, even with these mods, I just cannot relax around this printer and will probably end-up re-working the heatbed to 24v. I see TH-cam videos of people going out and leaving them running and think they must be nuts. It would not be difficult (or expensive) for the vendor to fit a thermal fuse to the silicone heater. I looked into it but attempting to modify it would likely expose the user to higher risk as the wires are buried in the silicone pad risking damage. If anyone knows a way to do it though, please share. Shame really, it is pretty, has a good build volume and produces good prints but I'm sticking to my other printer for the time being as just not feeling it.
Good luck all.
Thanks for the detailed, knowledgeable post. I think you've convinced me to upgrade the SSR when I do the ll in one. I'll check out the Octoprint plugin too.
Great video... I have 2 on storage to finish. I will use 30mA FID ( Residual Current Protective Devices ) on the end of the socket...
Love your videos! New to 3d printing and you've helped a lot. Quick question. I have that exact TEVO Tornado and cannot get my BLTouch working right. What exact version of the BLTouch is the one in this video? I've seen there is a classic, and a few different iterations of the "Smart" version. I have the newest one I assume. So hard to find the correct documentation since every version is slightly different when setting the Z-Offset. Thanks!
Grounding my Tornado was something I was going to do myself but after watching Ruiraptor TH-cam video on this subject as well as going on the Tevo forum on FB, I opted not to do this as from what I found out every home has circuit breakers fitting by law, this will actually kick in if there is a short, so the chances of getting a shock is quite slim, having said that if an after market or if Tevo come out with a fix you can integrate rather then scratching a perfectly good machine I will buy it, the strain relief though is a must.
For my Hypercube Evolution build I will add a mechanical relay before the SSR as a circuit breaker.. These SSRs are known for failing in closed state. So the bed will continue to heat with full power even if the mainboard will stop heating because of thermal overrun. The Klipper firmware allows me to define a pin that gets low on problems, that will open the mechanical relay and the bed stops heating. Your grounding would help in this case only if the silicone heater has already melted and the wires will get contact to the frame.
That's a really clever solution to the problem. Thanks for sharing.
I have this printer and love it. You do not need to ground it. There is a better way. Grounding is not going to do much. If the bed wire does break inside the thermal putty, ends up somehow getting through the barrier to touch the other wire, youll have a short and a fire, or lets say only one wire comes out, touches frame etc. Grounding may work, BUT the BEST way to to just install a GFCI outlet, as soon as the wire breaks, or any wire, the outlet is tripped, turning off the printer completely.
Great video and I'm subbed to your channel for the future improvements your planning.
This printer offers a lot above the CR10, especially the heated bed. But the lack of safety cut off worries me a bit... But great if you come up with a thermal fuse or some other solution.
Thanks again I'm looking forward to next installment...
Hi Quadplay, thanks for watching. In case you missed it, there was a follow up with a large nozzle. All in one will take more time to develop. So many videos to make, so little time..
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
A good project 👍
Yes, this is a great way to make the printer safe.
The mains heated bed was the reason for choosing Ender 3 in my case.
And yes, am a electronic engineer...
Thanks for the informative video, I'm considering one of these, but I think I'll wait to see what you come up with for integrating the electronics into the sub frame. I really don't like secondary control boxes on printers.
It will take me a little bit to develop that one but I can't wait until it's done because it's going to make the printer so much better.
My printer is not mains powered but i do thank you for making this video, it is very important topic. Love your channel!
Thank you for watching :)
Hi Michael, I finally got the gold tevo tornado and have started doing the upgrades, I definitely want to make this an all in one printer with better wire management. I'll be looking forward to what you come up with. Thanks
I'm try to finish off the tank before I turn to that mod but I have the hardware sitting here ready.
IMO mains AC is the best way to power large beds like this. With DC you need a lot of current to heat this size bed. Using wire of the appropriate thinkness is not an option for moving bed designs so they end up being undersized. Add to this the risk with burning connectors etc... Done right AC is much better. The changes you made seem pretty essential to safe AC operation though. Really poor design that they dont do this as standard.
I agree it's a major flaw. I only recommend this printer to someone comfortable in making these alterations.
Did you ever make a video on how to install a new headed pad on the Tevo tornado. I know it is dangerous. So I want to watch some videos first. For my Tevo Tornado 2018 edition printer. I would love to get a heater pad that already has the Resister/fuse and Thermistor installed. Therefore all I will have to do is install the 2 wires. I have replaced the PS for a better Meanwell power supply. And My on/off switch went out so I replaced that as well. Why do I want to replay the pad you might ask; because I want to add a Aluminum Bed. My tevo glass bed is at least 20c -40c lower than the temp should be. My other printer, a Ender 3 Max, has a Aluminum bed. With the Glass top sheet installed it is also way off temp. I tried placing my BuildTac aluminum sheet with Garolite top sheet on the Ender bed directly on top of the Aluminum bed. Much, much closer temp readings. Now on My Ender Printer it is only off a few degrees c.Thank You!!
I would still not buy this printer because it’s sold unsafe from the factory. But you did a good job in this video! This mods are must for every owner. Looking forward to see your next upgrade and what this printer will become at the end :-)
Thanks for your well considered comments on the original review video.
I honestly wouldn't call it "unsafe" from the factory. It looks decently safe, but these modifications definitely do make it even safer.
Hello, I know this video is for the tevo and not the ender 3, but the creator of ezabl said grounding my printer can help the sensor. I was just wondering what wiring are you using? Any gauge wire I find is not nearly as flexible as what you have showing and the stiff type I have has me worried with the way it bends as the bed moves (if it is even the correct type).
Excellent video! Do you happen to have a link for the replacement springs?
Fast but great.. did you intend to change Tornado original extruder cover or you think it's better than Ender3 original one?
Both work well. A printed extruder wheel on top like I covered in 7 more Ender 3 mods has similar usability improvement. Tornado extruder has more torque, however.
Hi, what are your thoughts on magnetic flexible printing beds? I see you can buy magnetic sheets on ebay for pretty cheap. If you search youtube for it there are some DIY.
There are also some made for 3d printing, but the ones I've seen has been seriously overpriced.
It looks very conveniets to just take the printing plate of the bed, bend it and the print pops off. I saw one guy using lexan too, but I really like the magnetic plate idea.
Seems to me like the best printing bed solution, but I have not tried it. Would be cool if you made a video on it, just a suggestion, I think there might be some interest for it cause there aren't that many DIY magnetic printing bed videos out there...might draw more viewers to your channel.
Oh, I saw one guy had another sheet above it so the print sticks better. There are sheets for this that are made for 3d printing that aren't too expensive. I saw some made from 3M company.
I'm actually about to test an Easy Peelzy magnetic bed on and Ender 3. It is very cheap compared to the Builtak flexplate which I made a video on previously.
I have the same printer I'm plan to make the upgrade with strain relief. Where did you get the cloth covering for the wires?
They came on the printer but you can also buy from an electronics store or Amazon.
@@TeachingTech okay thanks
A safe way would be maybe the robot arm from iron man that's the fire extinguisher AI 🤔😁 with scanning the heat build up and have the ability to cut the power if and also a Co2 extinguisher in ther arm. 😬
Are you still working on making this AIO? I’m Extremely interested in doing the same but unfortunately I don’t have the design skills to make the parts myself.
Hi! Our house doesn't have grounding (it's an old architecture where it wasn't planned). So we use two contacts only. What you can recommend on this? I use Tevo Flash and plan to make a strain relief to it's bed's cable too.
Strain relief is a must. As for grounding, beyond my expertise so I would ask an electrician.
What is the closest strain relief model for Tevo Flash? Is it the same from Tornado? Cables looks different.
Just finished my Ender 3 build. I haven’t turned it on yet. Should I ground it?
Where did you purchase smaller springs from?
Will you be getting a mosaic palette 2 or the pro one? I'm gonna preorder my palette 2 pro
If they want to send me one I'd love to make all kins of guides for it. Watching Joel's video now. At this stage my channel is still too small to justify spending that much coin (and Mrs Teaching Tech will kill me).
The diagram at 7:00 is wrong for the Tevo Tornado 2018/Gold - it is impossible to put the black and white wires there because that is the "z- end stop": www.robotrebels.org/gallery/16_08_07_17_6_14_14.jpeg
and that is already filled with a connector. I attempted to put the BLTouch black/white wires into the z+ end stop, but now I can't decrease Z no matter what.
Ah, you're supposed to remove the existing z- end stop connector, and then plug the BLTouch in the z- end stop position. That works for me.
Are you still working on the all in one solution for this printer?
Hi there, thanks for it. What wire gauge, and what precise serie of ring terminal do you use? They are labeled as RV-2-x probably.
Every found out?
Nice video 🖖 👍
This begs the question of why Tevo can’t take the time to properly design the electrical requirements of a 3D printer. The customer base they are marketing to are largely unaware of the electrical danger lurking there
i hope the next time you have your car worked on they only fix part of it be caused they fixed one like it be fore. its next to imposable to find a step by step bltouch install with firm ware how you did a ender doesn't
help me at all.
its a110volts, it cant kill you. hurt like hell yes, but not kill. its ac so its not going to make your muscles contract either. STILL this is very important to do for the bed. it prevents fires and all other stuff
what filament are you using?
www.x3d.com.au
They are my filament sponsor but I was already a customer before this. Great quality, good prices, always have specials on.
If I have a 3D printed All in One case mounted to the underside of the bed, do I still attach the grounding wire to screw that holds the PSU in place inside the case. Here is the case I'm using www.thingiverse.com/thing:4287626
Could you share your firmware?
Every time I here someone say earthed it cracks me up
In US we say grounded
I actually heard earth and ground in the states growing up. Though my grandpa was an engineer and so are a fair number of my friends so that may be why
Bizzare method of having a black earth cable coming forward when having it come from the back with the rest of the cables is so much more sensible. But clearly you're not a qualified electrician which truly alarms me that you find it appropriate to hand out advice on electrical systems. Another note, you need to use a proper crimp tool to crimp electrical connections with a compression die, not those hobby store things that just crush it into submission.
I guess it comes down to whether you think what I have shown is unsafe? The better question is: would a person's 3D printer be more or less safe after following the video?
Also, can't remember showing my crimping tool so well done for knowing all about it.
Teaching Tech well considering it’s on the table where you’re working it’s obvious you’re not using the appropriate crimp tool.
Also you are aware the FW will see a drop in temp that it can’t recover from shutting off the SSR.
But you’re welcome to offer electrical advice all you want.
Just do the right thing and obtain the appropriate license to do so.
I'm really not one to argue on the internet but my two questions remain.
Someone can use the printer as is or they follow my video and improve its safety substantially. Would you have me delete the video over relatively small details?
Teaching Tech you’re earthing a double insulated appliance.
Do you see the irony?