One thing to add for those who may not know. The non-Chevy bolt pattern th350 is not just for Pontiac. It's the BOP th350, meaning it fits Buick, Olds, and Pontiac. Thanks for the videos. Very helpful!
Great video! I’ve been needing to rebuild my th350 for a while now..I don’t have to money to pay someone to do it, and I haven’t found a video as thorough as yours. I’m actually excited to tackle this project now. Can’t wait to watch the rest of them before I start.
Thanks for the support! Hopefully this helps people. These transmissions are super popular. And really pretty simple as far as automatics go. Definitely worth doing yourself.
trying to see front end of it in your video but, up around the front of this transmission behind where the front seal goes, around the shaft, should there be a notch in it? Your seal is intact in this one so i cant tell but, i can post a picture of it if need but my trans has a notch in the area they call a pump? its about the width of a finger but my trans was leaking from that front seal, took it all apart and the sleeve around the shaft there was cut and bent just where this notch in the pump itself is missing.
I’ll have to look. I think I know what you are describing. Let me look when I get home. You can always go to my website and use my email there to send a photo.
@@WarPaintOffroad I did some more research, as well as broke the transmission down, but this notch I was mentioning is indeed intentional, looks like some kind of blowout channel for the transmission fluid but, the reason mine was leaking was the bushing just there around the shaft. Right where that channel sits happened to be where the bushing itself was pressed together, the bushing was blown halfway apart at the seam with the point torn so far inward it was nearly poking the shaft. Being behind the front pump seal whatever blew my bushing out should've been selfcontained but aside from a few metal shards there was nothing that could've ripped through the bushing within it. It almost looks like the channel opening up over the bushing somehow became overpressurized and just blew enough fluid hard enough to rip apart my bushing. The seal itself was still in great shape too, undamaged though there are a few scratches and gouges more with the bushing.. Your videos been super helpful though, I never would've gotten my front pump out of the transmission without seeing where to pry it. That said I've caught hell trying to order a replacement bushing to install on it. None of the hardware stores have it in stock and half of them don't even have the info on it in their systems. Had to knock it out with a screwdriver myself and even with the part number off the bushing, Clevite 01588, i still had to order from amazon myself to get it. My question is though, is that even feasible? Could the little tranny fluid channel in the front plate of the pump come out with enough force to blow in a bushing like that?
Awesome video! Will be doing my first rebuild of a transmission and will be referring to your video during disassembly. Would like to see a close up of your modified, snap ring pliers. Also, heard that the TH350 needs only one check ball and one of the ring seals, the middle one, can be left off the pump assembly shaft. Any thoughts on that? Look forward to more videos on this transmission. Cheers
I’m glad this will help you. The TH350 can be modified like you have said. But I tend to put it back together the way it came from the factory and the. Use a Transgo reprogramming kit. The TH350 has been around for a long time. And people came up with their own ways of improving its weaknesses. But Transgo has come up with a shift kit that they call a “reprogramming kit” which not only fixes the potential issues…but allows you to customize the way it shifts. I will be putting out a video on that set up shortly.
I've also heard that you can replace one of the sprag clutches with a stronger one out of a 4L60E. I can't remember which sprag is a weak point in the Th350. @@WarPaintOffroad
Can you point to where 3rd gear engages? Took out my governor. Metal shards on it and was locked. Cleaned it up and shifted to 3rd for about 10 miles before same issue.😂 also what would be your first impressions as to where failure is when it’s just 3rd not engaging?
Hi my name is Andrey this is my first time I'm watching a transmission tear down in depth I have a few questions 1. With friction clutches or any of the disk and drums does it matter what way you drop them in (if lets say all tabs are the same?) If turned slightly 2. The valve body is it the gasket that you drill holes into to make it shift smoother or harsher? 3. What exactly gets changed to beef up the strength of the transmission (let's say raise the torque rating to handle 200 more torque?)
Hey there! So to answer your questions…if all tabs are the same…the. It doesn’t matter. But many parts inside this trans will only fit one way. For the valve body…it would be the gasket and the plate. But it’s very easy to mess up. Which is why I usually go to a kit from someone like Transgo that has already done it for you and you know it will be right. They aren’t expensive. And for beefing up the trans, it used to be easier because the th350 was much more available. But it’s getting harder to find parts. Anything g has a breaking point. Tbh, just upgrading the clutches, getting a good torque converter, and making sure it doesn’t run hot…it will handle some pretty good power. The th400 is strong we though. Has a larger output shaft that can handle more abuse. So it’s hard to say exactly what it will handle. Because lots of power driven nicely in the street is very different than lots of power driven on a sticky drag strip with hot slicks.
My old Chevy 1986 Silverado had an 350 th transmission. Such a basic transmission compare too all these modern day computer control transmission. The only thing I regret when the original factory transmission went out should have kept the transmission case/shell instead I gave it up as a core for the Allison transmission.
For a person who likes too keep up with the maintenance of a vehicle I really don't mind paying the extra on synthetic formulas that are backed and have a proven record of performance. I guess too the people out there it depends how well you want to keep up with the maintenance. Paying a lot for a vehicle I surely want too be religious following the maintenance schedule
One thing to add for those who may not know. The non-Chevy bolt pattern th350 is not just for Pontiac. It's the BOP th350, meaning it fits Buick, Olds, and Pontiac. Thanks for the videos. Very helpful!
@@grand73am good point!
Great video! I’ve been needing to rebuild my th350 for a while now..I don’t have to money to pay someone to do it, and I haven’t found a video as thorough as yours. I’m actually excited to tackle this project now. Can’t wait to watch the rest of them before I start.
Thanks for the support! It’s not too difficult. Just take your time. Have fun with it!
Lots to remember when putting back together. Good info.
Brother, I kid you not. You resemble a member of my church he was just like you know his mechanics
Can I just say great job. I am attempting my first rebuild ever and this gives me confidence
I agree 100%
Awesome instructions Dan, thanks for your excellent knowledge!!🙌🙌🙌
Thanks for the support! Hopefully this helps people. These transmissions are super popular. And really pretty simple as far as automatics go. Definitely worth doing yourself.
I really like your nice demeanor, and the way that you explain things!
Much appreciated! I try to hard to not have this be another channel that leaves you hanging with in answered questions.
trying to see front end of it in your video but, up around the front of this transmission behind where the front seal goes, around the shaft, should there be a notch in it? Your seal is intact in this one so i cant tell but, i can post a picture of it if need but my trans has a notch in the area they call a pump? its about the width of a finger but my trans was leaking from that front seal, took it all apart and the sleeve around the shaft there was cut and bent just where this notch in the pump itself is missing.
I’ll have to look. I think I know what you are describing. Let me look when I get home. You can always go to my website and use my email there to send a photo.
@@WarPaintOffroad I did some more research, as well as broke the transmission down, but this notch I was mentioning is indeed intentional, looks like some kind of blowout channel for the transmission fluid but, the reason mine was leaking was the bushing just there around the shaft. Right where that channel sits happened to be where the bushing itself was pressed together, the bushing was blown halfway apart at the seam with the point torn so far inward it was nearly poking the shaft. Being behind the front pump seal whatever blew my bushing out should've been selfcontained but aside from a few metal shards there was nothing that could've ripped through the bushing within it. It almost looks like the channel opening up over the bushing somehow became overpressurized and just blew enough fluid hard enough to rip apart my bushing. The seal itself was still in great shape too, undamaged though there are a few scratches and gouges more with the bushing..
Your videos been super helpful though, I never would've gotten my front pump out of the transmission without seeing where to pry it. That said I've caught hell trying to order a replacement bushing to install on it. None of the hardware stores have it in stock and half of them don't even have the info on it in their systems. Had to knock it out with a screwdriver myself and even with the part number off the bushing, Clevite 01588, i still had to order from amazon myself to get it.
My question is though, is that even feasible? Could the little tranny fluid channel in the front plate of the pump come out with enough force to blow in a bushing like that?
Thanks good job from iran
I know mainly for your shit posting on IG and that’s pretty funny but this was actually really informative and entertaining
Thanks for the support! Instagram is just a way to promote the TH-cam and have fun. Showing how to build stuff is my passion.
You got a new subscriber brother!!! Great details!!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for the support!
Excellent vid man!
Thanks!
And a thumbs up!! 👍🏿
Are you a fan of the amsoil top tier automatic transmission fluid formula. Yes it little bit costly however the benefits.
Awesome video! Will be doing my first rebuild of a transmission and will be referring to your video during disassembly. Would like to see a close up of your modified, snap ring pliers. Also, heard that the TH350 needs only one check ball and one of the ring seals, the middle one, can be left off the pump assembly shaft. Any thoughts on that? Look forward to more videos on this transmission. Cheers
I’m glad this will help you. The TH350 can be modified like you have said. But I tend to put it back together the way it came from the factory and the. Use a Transgo reprogramming kit. The TH350 has been around for a long time. And people came up with their own ways of improving its weaknesses. But Transgo has come up with a shift kit that they call a “reprogramming kit” which not only fixes the potential issues…but allows you to customize the way it shifts. I will be putting out a video on that set up shortly.
I've also heard that you can replace one of the sprag clutches with a stronger one out of a 4L60E. I can't remember which sprag is a weak point in the Th350. @@WarPaintOffroad
@@Chuck_S Yeah, I'd like to know more on that mod as well. Cheers
Can you point to where 3rd gear engages? Took out my governor. Metal shards on it and was locked. Cleaned it up and shifted to 3rd for about 10 miles before same issue.😂 also what would be your first impressions as to where failure is when it’s just 3rd not engaging?
Hi my name is Andrey this is my first time I'm watching a transmission tear down in depth I have a few questions
1. With friction clutches or any of the disk and drums does it matter what way you drop them in (if lets say all tabs are the same?) If turned slightly
2. The valve body is it the gasket that you drill holes into to make it shift smoother or harsher?
3. What exactly gets changed to beef up the strength of the transmission (let's say raise the torque rating to handle 200 more torque?)
Hey there! So to answer your questions…if all tabs are the same…the. It doesn’t matter. But many parts inside this trans will only fit one way.
For the valve body…it would be the gasket and the plate. But it’s very easy to mess up. Which is why I usually go to a kit from someone like Transgo that has already done it for you and you know it will be right. They aren’t expensive.
And for beefing up the trans, it used to be easier because the th350 was much more available. But it’s getting harder to find parts. Anything g has a breaking point. Tbh, just upgrading the clutches, getting a good torque converter, and making sure it doesn’t run hot…it will handle some pretty good power. The th400 is strong we though. Has a larger output shaft that can handle more abuse. So it’s hard to say exactly what it will handle. Because lots of power driven nicely in the street is very different than lots of power driven on a sticky drag strip with hot slicks.
Hey thank you so much for replying i loved the video ill watch the other parts of this mini series thank you and good luck @WarPaintOffroad
My old Chevy 1986 Silverado had an 350 th transmission. Such a basic transmission compare too all these modern day computer control transmission. The only thing I regret when the original factory transmission went out should have kept the transmission case/shell instead I gave it up as a core for the Allison transmission.
For a person who likes too keep up with the maintenance of a vehicle I really don't mind paying the extra on synthetic formulas that are backed and have a proven record of performance. I guess too the people out there it depends how well you want to keep up with the maintenance. Paying a lot for a vehicle I surely want too be religious following the maintenance schedule