Looks to be a cape chisel, it's what I use to remove bushings also. If you haven't tried one, a 1.5" to 2" wide mason chisel works great for driving those seals out & only $10 @ Home Depot/Menards. I like to drive the old pump/tail housing seals out before removing pump TH, makes things easier. You guys obviously know what you're doing, these are merely suggestions. Another tip/trick is using a C6 servo cover for driving the governor cover back on, fits perfect. You guys are doing it right and giving what many viewers are asking for, a build video. What most don't realize is cleaning/inspecting for worn parts is learned thru experience. Replacing all bushings is the right way to do it. I've used assembly goo but prefer good ole (cheap) petroleum jelly aka Vaseline. Been using it for 40+ years. Videos are good and I'm sure will get better. Thanks for taking the time out of your busy day to share your knowledge. Retired and still enjoy watching the videos with my grandson. I wish you guys the best of success..
Thank you very much for the outreach. The C6 servo cover I previously used broke one day and have just never grabbed another. Thanks for the tip on the chisel I always love new ideas and methods that can help with what we do. Also if the jelly works for you that's what matters most. Thanks for watching.
So I was changing my tail shaft from a 2wd to a 4wd, I get everything back together and in park it’s all locked up as it should be but in R,N, D etc the tail shaft will only spin counterclockwise…it’s a hard stop clockwise. This seems odd to me. I took it back apart and ass soon as I drop in (I don’t know the name of things) the second set of clutches after the small snap ring, the one we’re you said be a little rough on the shaft to get it all in that right there stops the tail shaft from spinning clockwise. Is this right? Seems I should be able to turn it freely either way in neutral? I’m beginner at best in tearing down a transmission.
Just curious thought omitting the drum seal and ring on the pump was standard practice for dual feed the direct piston. When it isn't a lockup converter trans. Even in a more stock trans Ive been told it's common practice.
Good morning. I just love your video! I have rebuilt my TH350 and have some experience with installing transmissions. I have a question about bolting the torque converter to the flexplate.... Since the torque converter sags ever so slightly from its own weight when resting in the transmission, prior to bolting to the flexplate,, should you lift it up ever so slightly (take the weight off) as you tighten the first torque converter to flexplate bolt? Or just pull it forward and bolt up without lifting on it?
Any advice on how I can know when the drum assembly is all the way down? I've been jiggliing plenty and eventually it stops dropping, but the front pump is still sitting too high. This all started with a simple front pump reseal but the clutches came out of alignment when I pulled the front pump out horizontally and now I can't get it back together. Is it possible that something south of the drum assembly is out?
I've built engines before, but never a transmission. I've always been hesitant because I don't know what clearances to check nor do I have specialty tools. Is the turbo 350 a good first rebuild for a transmission novice?
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 The cleaning is wow takes forever I was wondering how transmission shops make any money after I have done a few transmissions.
It amazes me how people can tear a transmission apart and put it back together again without referencing a manual. I mean I know repetition breads confidence but to be able to assemble all those parts in the correct order and know all the specifications and when and where to measure tolerances. As an aircraft mechanic for 20 years it just amazes me the things we can memorize.
Right out of the gate, I didn't see you wash that drum in solvent after removing the bearing along with a thorough inspection for thrust cracks, and ware from bronze (brass) washer? Think of rebuilding an automatic transmission as an emergency operation. You're in the Operating Room! That 383 will end up up exploding that drum and taking out half the trans. You need a case washing machine because right now you're just transferring all the metal debris into the rebuild. Think that transmission as your own. You'll end up with a whole lot of new customers waiting for a great rebuilder to work on their vehicle.
In san diego they are charging me from 2,200 to 2,500 to rebuild my 350. Because parts are more difficult to find for this transmission nowadays, according to them
The spring compressor I ask you about is the one you had on the bench I don't think you will reply not that you wouldn't I just don't think you read all this bulls replays
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
Great info. Thanks for the video.
Looks to be a cape chisel, it's what I use to remove bushings also. If you haven't tried one, a 1.5" to 2" wide mason chisel works great for driving those seals out & only $10 @ Home Depot/Menards. I like to drive the old pump/tail housing seals out before removing pump TH, makes things easier. You guys obviously know what you're doing, these are merely suggestions. Another tip/trick is using a C6 servo cover for driving the governor cover back on, fits perfect. You guys are doing it right and giving what many viewers are asking for, a build video. What most don't realize is cleaning/inspecting for worn parts is learned thru experience. Replacing all bushings is the right way to do it. I've used assembly goo but prefer good ole (cheap) petroleum jelly aka Vaseline. Been using it for 40+ years. Videos are good and I'm sure will get better. Thanks for taking the time out of your busy day to share your knowledge. Retired and still enjoy watching the videos with my grandson. I wish you guys the best of success..
Thank you very much for the outreach. The C6 servo cover I previously used broke one day and have just never grabbed another. Thanks for the tip on the chisel I always love new ideas and methods that can help with what we do. Also if the jelly works for you that's what matters most. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely loved it time to go out and find me old junk 350 and make her a new again
Hell yeah!
Always a good time with a th350
So I was changing my tail shaft from a 2wd to a 4wd, I get everything back together and in park it’s all locked up as it should be but in R,N, D etc the tail shaft will only spin counterclockwise…it’s a hard stop clockwise. This seems odd to me. I took it back apart and ass soon as I drop in (I don’t know the name of things) the second set of clutches after the small snap ring, the one we’re you said be a little rough on the shaft to get it all in that right there stops the tail shaft from spinning clockwise. Is this right? Seems I should be able to turn it freely either way in neutral? I’m beginner at best in tearing down a transmission.
Just curious thought omitting the drum seal and ring on the pump was standard practice for dual feed the direct piston. When it isn't a lockup converter trans. Even in a more stock trans Ive been told it's common practice.
Good morning. I just love your video! I have rebuilt my TH350 and have some experience with installing transmissions. I have a question about bolting the torque converter to the flexplate.... Since the torque converter sags ever so slightly from its own weight when resting in the transmission, prior to bolting to the flexplate,, should you lift it up ever so slightly (take the weight off) as you tighten the first torque converter to flexplate bolt? Or just pull it forward and bolt up without lifting on it?
Any advice on how I can know when the drum assembly is all the way down? I've been jiggliing plenty and eventually it stops dropping, but the front pump is still sitting too high. This all started with a simple front pump reseal but the clutches came out of alignment when I pulled the front pump out horizontally and now I can't get it back together. Is it possible that something south of the drum assembly is out?
I've built engines before, but never a transmission. I've always been hesitant because I don't know what clearances to check nor do I have specialty tools. Is the turbo 350 a good first rebuild for a transmission novice?
Absolutely
How long does it take to completely rebuild the th350 transmission.
Depends on the build. But a stock style rebuild 3-5 hrs after parts cleaning is a good start.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207
The cleaning is wow takes forever I was wondering how transmission shops make any money after I have done a few transmissions.
It amazes me how people can tear a transmission apart and put it back together again without referencing a manual. I mean I know repetition breads confidence but to be able to assemble all those parts in the correct order and know all the specifications and when and where to measure tolerances. As an aircraft mechanic for 20 years it just amazes me the things we can memorize.
Right out of the gate, I didn't see you wash that drum in solvent after removing the bearing along with a thorough inspection for thrust cracks, and ware from bronze (brass) washer? Think of rebuilding an automatic transmission as an emergency operation. You're in the Operating Room! That 383 will end up up exploding that drum and taking out half the trans. You need a case washing machine because right now you're just transferring all the metal debris into the rebuild. Think that transmission as your own. You'll end up with a whole lot of new customers waiting for a great rebuilder to work on their vehicle.
I've watched this whole thing like 5 times now, I got a th350c out of a 1981 k5 blazer, Everytime I watch I laugh and learn something new😂😂❤❤❤
Did you build or can a person buy that spring compressor
Is this the exact same for a TH350C?
Chevy 327 motor c20 2 wheel drive had standard long or short tail original drive train
In san diego they are charging me from 2,200 to 2,500 to rebuild my 350. Because parts are more difficult to find for this transmission nowadays, according to them
Did I miss seeing you torque the bolts holding the pump halves together? All I saw was the speed handle.
Yeah I think it got lost in edit lol they torque to 15 ft lbs
Amazing job David! Thanks for sharing!
Smurf assembly lube where can I get it ? What kind ?
Assembly goo by lube guard part number 19260
Great video 👍👍
Good stuff
At 12:30 what was the tool you used on the rear drum?
Cant watch the video currently can you describe the tool.
No anti rattle spring with the center support?
he added a different kind
Do you have a part number for the rear Sprague retainer
Replace with a 4l60e wider sprag.
Buttery
Who's my uncle?
11:28
Ah
Where is the rest of the build video
The spring compressor I ask you about is the one you had on the bench I don't think you will reply not that you wouldn't I just don't think you read all this bulls replays
Lol I reply when I can an I use a snap press or a adapt a case twist style
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 thank you
And as always I will share share share
Amazon spray gun 5 hole each side
If you don't mind telling me sir
Amazon spray gun 5 hole each side