I worked with a guy who condemned 5 LS based engines for low oil pressure. Each engine was replaced with either new or rebuilt. The tech ALWAYS ended up with the old engine. He’s then replace the CORRECT part to replace, and sell the engine and pocket all the cash. When I let the service manager know, I’m the one they reprimanded. People like those guys make good mechanics look really bad. If you’re in the Boise Idaho area and you need automotive work done, call around. If someone named Rocky answers the phone, don’t go to that shop.
Changed an LS oil pump on a very similar truck with a 5.3L that had 408,xxx miles and it was just flat worn out. Not to mention the exact same O-ring on the pickup was also cracked. This particular truck had less than 10psi at idle. No engine problems noted. Oil pressure restored and it is still running to this day. These are really good engines. And that is coming from a die hard SBF fan.
My 6.0 is having the exact same problem. About 5 lbs idling in gear, and averaging 19 lbs driving. When I let off the pedal, the oil pressure goes up momentarily.
I have a 2008 esky. It was reading around 11-12 at idle hot. It would never go over 30 even a 3K RPM. I had the melling HV oilpump and o ring installed now it goes to 55-60 at cold idle but still dips to 22-24 at hot idle. It did stop my lifter tapping after driving highway. I'm still not sure how much life is left in it at 212K miles.
Thanks for your Comment I am a Chevy guy but I definitely give props to other brands as well there is ingenious technology in American motors I do love and support all 3 till the day I die ❤ !!! Full time shop owner and mechanic for the last 25 years!!! TO THE LAND OF THE FREE AND THE HOME OF THE BRAVE !!!
I changed the engine oil in my 2013 GMC Sierra a week ago. I've had this truck for over two years and have grown accustomed to where the oil pressure guage rests throughout the warming cycle and normal operation. This time I used the usual Pennzoil 5W-30 Platinum Full Synthetic along with a new-to-me ACDelco PF48E filter that was available locally. I usually have a couple Wix 57060XP on the shelf but had run out and couldn't find one locally. I drove to work the next day and at the first traffic signal I noticed my oil pressure guage reading a bit lower than usual. The truck is usually at 30-35 PSI idling in drive and 40-45 driving at 1.5k-2k RPM. But now it was 18-20 PSI idling and 22-26 PSI while driving. I started watching YT videos trying to diagnose the oil pressure issue myself. I added a drop of Lucas Oil Stabilizer, no change. I dropped the oil pan (pain in the rear) and changed the fabled o-ring, no change. I bought a new oil sending unit. Before replacing that I decided to pause and ask... WHAT CHANGED? AHH. The oil filter was a different brand. Maybe that's it?! This morning I climbed under the truck with a drain pan and swapped out the brand new ACDelco PH48E with a brand new Wix 57060XP filter. Topped off the oil and started the truck up. Dog gone it! The truck was BACK to the normal oil pressure readings of 30 - 45 PSI. I don't know if the new ACD PF48E had a bad check valve or the media was too restrictive... Fellers, if you find yourself parts-cannoning after a similar situation stop first and ask yourself: WHAT CHANGED? I'm relieved that my truck isn't busted and it was a simple oversight. I hope this helps someone out there.
I change my on ring put I still have low oil pressure I guess I will have to try the new filter and new oil I hope this does the trick thanks for the help mark.
My Tahoe is doing the same thing! It was fine before the oil, filter change and now my pressure is low and randomly throwing the No pressure turn it off warning. I can’t afford to randomly buy new parts to test 🤦🏻♀️😭I don’t know what to do
@@mizzladyluck85 Purchase the Wix or Napa Gold filter that fits your vehicle. Have the shop that did your oil change replace the filter they put on with the new one you bought.. Then start it up and drive it a bit. The five to ten dollar difference in filter cost is much cheaper than an oil starved engine replacement.
1) so glad you didn’t just say “10 psi per 1000 rpm, that’s good enough.” :) Sure that’s fine for some engines, but when you see a sudden change, the fact that it CHANGED is much more important than the actual pressure. 2) Weirdest one I ever had was on a 440. As you know they have an external oil pump and the oil pressure regulator is built into the pump cover. The cover is an iron casting that incorporates the filter mount, and internallyhas a machined passage with a spring-loaded piston that lifts at the set pressure and dumps excess oil from the pump outlet to the pump inlet (remember this for later...). This particular engine had lost an engine mount, shifted sideways, and bumped against the subframe (which I didn’t know at the time). I fixed the mount and drove a few weeks with no issues. Then one day, as everyone with a big block will occasionally do, I let ‘er rip to redline through first gear and enjoyed the screech when it shifted to second. But when I Iet off at cruise speed, I had about 30 psi instead of the usual 65. At idle it was less than 10 instead of the usual 25. Uh oh. I decided to change the oil and check for glitter- none, not even in the filter pleats. Put in new oil, filled the filter, and cranked her up... ZERO oil pressure! Ran it plenty long, and the lifters were getting very noisy, so I knew I had an issue. Long story short, when the oil pump cover kissed the subframe when the motor mount broke, it slightly dented the machined cylinder in the cover casting where the relief valve piston rides. My WOT blast had made the relief valve travel it’s full length for the first time since the motor mount broke, and the relief valve piston hung in the open position because of the pinched spot in the bore. Since the pump and oiling system were full, I just had low pressure... but as soon as I changed the oil it allowed air into the pickup tube and pump, and with the relief valve open and effectively connecting the inlet to the outlet AND being filled with air instead of oil, it couldn’t draw oil up the pickup tube and to the pump at all. Pulled an oil pump cover out of my parts pile, cleaned it and checked the piston travel, installed it, and all was well. That was 25+ years ago and that engine is still running well today.
I wish I had been as smart as you or could have gotten some good advice about my 440. I don't think my cover got dented but I did run the engine up to 5500 through all the gears and then parked it a few minutes later. After dark I moved the car inside and no oil pressure. That experience caused me to let the car set a long time until I parted it out. What a waste. I bet I could have fixed it in 30 minutes or less based on your comment. Live and learn ........
my dads 04 chevy silverado has a 5.3 ls motor and some years back it started reading low oil pressure but then the volt meter started acting up and then i did some research and found out that the instrument clusters in gm cars and trucks had some serious issues, so i went to my local napa dealer and got another updated cluster and the oil pressure issue was solved i really appreciate you showing us how you figured out your issue thanks for that!
Had the very same thing happen to my 2005 Yukon XL Denali. 182K miles all of a sudden the lifters started ticking on startup and after it was warm it wouldn't hold over 20 PSI on HOT idle where it used to be 40+ HOT idle. Going down highway it was about 50 PSI (not far off from normal) so I knew it wasn't the bearings. I bought a Melling High volume oil pump and new pickup tube, Installed in the garage over a 3 day weekend and BAM 50 PSI hot Idle no lifter tick 80 PSI at 6000 RPM. Melling recommend the high volume since it was a little higher mileage engine, and the high pressure spring was only really good for 7 psi up in the rev range, It didn't change much at idle and they said 80 PSI was still safe. Upon inspection I found the original oil pump pickup O-ring was in good condition, It was the Oil Pump Regulator Spring and Piston that was weak and bleeding off pressure. Have 196K miles on it now and runs great. Don't plan to spend 60K+ dollars on a new Yukon so ill be running this one for a while.
i get it...have 208k on a 2007 silverado...luckily no engine issues.....newer truck is nice if can afford , but then insurance company nails you to the wall
Ditto lol Coming from an older vortec v6, i thought 35psi at idle was pretty normal. Mine is an 09, afm disabled via tune. Had a slight tick at idle, turned off afm and instant fix! Now i might need a pickup tube o-ring... probably related lifter tick when i have afm enabled? 😶
I have a new to me '02 suburban with LM7. 203k on the meter and no issues so far. Its my first LS so I'm watching all the youtubes to learn all I can about preventative maintenance. Dropping the pan on a 4x4 looks like a lot of extra work.
Customer brought in a high-miles truck (LM7) with low oil pressure, but not all the time. He diagnosed it himself LOL and wanted the sender replaced. Still low pressure. (key statement>) Customer claimed he changed the oil himself every 2-3K and wouldn't pay for another oil change so we skipped that step. Came back a couple weeks later with the same complaint, only worse. I dropped the pan to change the o-ring and found the pan was full of sludge and the pickup was stopped up. Looked like it was full of bearing grease - turned out Mr Frequent Oil Change guy was full of shit. I cleaned out the pickup, changed the o-ring and sent shithead on his way with 50-60psi oil pressure.
@@mikes9939 I didn't handle the money at that shop, so I don't know what the labor added up to. Probably just swapping the sensor, then doing the oil pump o-ring, however much that was. While I was not surprised a customer would try to bullshit about service history, I was kinda shocked at finding really bad oil sludging in an LS. I come from VW background, where carbon buildup and oil sludging keeps you in business. I expected Chevy to have a better handle on it.
I have had so many "Mr. Pampers" customers...They claim the "Pamper" their vehicles...Yet Their More Likely Full of the same Material found in "Pampers" Diapers...and I don't mean URINE!
First sign was low oil pressure on guage, tried hard line guage, no difference, Had some lifter noise when idling at stop sign. Time for tear down. Found spun cam bearings. Found out from machinest that LS was known for this in slot of cases. Maybe it had bad o-ring on pickup tube before it spun cam bearing. Pay attention to that oil pressure guage guys! Love this channel.
This video is really relevant for me. My 2002 Camaro LS1 has had low oil pressure for maybe eight years. I did track days with it steadily since new, and noticed after about 10 years that it was only running about 30 psi when fully hot on track at high rpm. I have not been overly concerned about it, though, because I cut open the used oil filters and never see any bearing debris. And I have oil analyses done that never show high amounts of Aluminum or Iron. I have been assuming that it is a bad reading on the gauge, and have taken the fatalistic attitude that if that amount of oil pressure is not enough, the engine will quit running. I've been wanting to put an LS3 in it for years, but the LS1 just won't die. At 277000 miles, it's earned a rest.
I have a 2001 z28 with ls1 and as u can guess I'm here cause I'm having low oil pressure. It runs at 35 and goes up to like 42. This is after changing the oil pressure sensor
What is the spec for oil pressure, the pressure depends on how much clearance you have on bearings, I would expect 35-40 is good at idle, and go to 50-55 at 3000 rpm!
My 02 with 320,000 started having tons of lifter noise. Not even 15-40 would quiet things down. Finally used a quart of engine flush before changing oil and it cleaned out some gunk. I also topped things off with MMO. I used this truck to pull trailers when I built houses. Later I delivered mail in the country with it. It's just a matter of time before I spin a bearing, but it's still running decent. Engine Restore helped too (not sure how adding lead and copper to oil increases compression and power, but it did). Anyway, I'll replace the o-ring. Will give me a chance to look around. Thanks for the practical video!
Clean truck man, these body styles have always been my favorite. I have a 2000 with 250k still running 60l-70bs of oil pressure and running like a champ
Jesse, you are right! I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 and it has 345,000 Miles and is my Daily Driver! Oil changed Faithfully at 4,000 Miles with Napa Gold Filter. I have a new Motor built for when the original one goes, and I am anxious to see with the Mileage it has what the inside looks like. Until then, Chevy all the way!
@@sandyrandall7341 I service quite a few fleet customers and have seen *REALLY WELL MAINTAINED* (using full synthetic Mobil 1) with over 700k on the original engine. Maintained, quickly diagnosed/serviced/repaired if any issues pop up (as they will on any engine/vehicle) and never having been *badly* overheated and the 4.8/5.3/6.0L engines are probably the most durable trouble free engines on the market and have been for 20 years now. I know the engines with active fuel management seemingly encounter oil pressure issues due to lifter related failures though if promptly serviced these too seem to be pretty much bulletproof.
I recently had a cam change in my 2011 GMC Sierra it's a Howard asa cam intake D. 226 exhaust D. 236 duration 274/285 lift 525 .. wondering why this tuner cannot get my truck right just wondering if you could point me in the right direction you put the truck in park you mash the gas RPMs go up RPMs drop almost cuts the truck off if you put the truck in neutral it does the same thing as this is happening the oil pressure drops also .hoping someone can point me in the right direction.. ....
HEy Richard you're missing something MUSIC! HAd a 72 olds cutlass no pressure on oil gauge put a pressure gauge near oil filter pressure present. Remove manual gauge & place it where the sending unit goes zero. All this was happening during a crank no start test. I poped the distributor out & crank the pump shaft with valve covers out no oil out of the rockers. Removed the block tore it down oil galleys for the lifters plugged cam lobes on cyl. 4& 6 flat. Crank journals all scored. Called a friend he had an LS 6.0 truck engine built 420 HP customer said lets do it. I'm still working on it rebuilding an auto trans TH350.Yup baad oil clogged the oil galleys. Richard thanks for the vid keep uploading & I'll be watching.
Richard I’m a fan and love your content very informative I am a gen 12&3 ls fan 90% of the low oil pressure problems I deal with has been that oring You would be surprised at the number of asc certified trained mechanics that just don’t know and would sell the customer an oil pump that’s not needed and accidentally fix the problem with a new oil pump but only because they installed the new oring while installing the new pump ultimately fixing the issue but blaming the wrong part My 02 surburban 386k original miles nothing but oil changes and regular maintenance op around 20 psi dropped the pan replaced green oring at operating temp 50 -70 psi Thanks for information though I’m going to share this cuz nobody believes without seeing
@Tammy Feddersen not how that works they get paid on the job based on flat rate time. If a job pays 6 hours to do and it takes you 8 you only get paid for 6.
@@mzuvin5705 This depends if the mechanic is working as Self-Employed or for a Larger Company associated with a Dealer and the Brand of Cars it has been franchised, contracted, or/& licensed to sell along with the associated Used/Pre-Owned Division. Body Shops & Automotive Repair Shops performing repairs for insurance purposes is more likely to go by your mention of “Given 6 Hours to Repair Job” scenario and EACH INDIVIDUAL MECHANIC’s efficiency, experience, expertise, & skill level encapsulates the issue of spending more time than the GIVEN LABOR HOURS PAID FOR THE PARTICULAR REPAIR in a Detailed Line Item Repair Quote and subsequent Repair Shop gaining the Business of that Client or Customer.
Yep I've heard that's the most common issue. My 02 Chevy with the LM7 iron block LS has 220k and just dropped some oil pressure. Gonna check that O ring tomorrow
Just bought an 2001 Sierra 4x4 and took it down the interstate. Started dropping pressure, 20 psi and falling, and you’d hear clacking. Turn it off and crank it back up and pressure would return. Changed my pick up tube o-ring and deleted the oil cooler and 42 lbs at idle and 60 cruising! Not bad for a truck with 273k miles!
I have a '96 Camaro with a 3800 in it that hasn't had oil pressure at idle and never more than 25 PSI at higher RPMs for the last 20k miles. I figured it wasn't worth fixing (tried replacing the pressure sender because that was easy) and figured I'd just drive it until it blows, but it's hanging in like a champ.
You've been looking far and wide in the wrong places!! These damn O-rings are an Achilles heel of the LS motors. Why in the HELL GM had to use 3 or 4 different size O-rings 🤔 I'll NEVER know. Many LS engines ruined by people using the wrong O-ring. Thanks GM!!!
Cam bearings and camshafts are known issues on these. When the lifter fails, it starts hammering the hardened roller against the cam. The lifter fails due to varnish. Flush regularly, and use synthetic, especially with Displacement On Demand. Also, with the Displacement On Demand option, the oil return valve is known to atomize the hot oil, so there is an oil baffle update for that to reduce it from breaking down the oil into varnish. Because there are cooling oil jets bouncing off the backs of the pistons, it causes more oil atomization, and requires the oiling system be flushed regularly. This will keep the pickup screen from plugging up.
@@vilefly Makes sense...I'm really familiar with most things GM and don't ever recall them recommending a flush. I personally won't flush any engine UNLESSD I can verify it's not a "sludge monkey" as that's just instant death (unless willing to disassemble the pan/pump/screen afterwards as the screen will block in real short order)though on engines I've serviced and KNOW are clean,I have done this quite a number of times. Thanks for the answer!
@@CptKirKBo Dropping the oil pan has become part of 100k mile service at my job for these motors. The oil pump pickup tube o ring hardens up and can fail.
I once had a 1977 Ford Granada and I installed a 351 Windsor in it. The motor was rebuilt by someone else and the crank wasn't ground properly. It had 5 lbs of oil pressure at idle and 35 on the road. I drove it that way over 2 years until the transmission went. The motor ran good and I even raced it a few times. I never heard any noises in the engine nor did I notice any metal in the oil when I changed it. It had a decent cam in it and I surprised quite a few people with it. There weren't too many cars back in the smog era that made 375 horsepower. If I had 35 pounds of oil pressure at idle and over 50 on the road I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. In fact at night I would probably turn over, fart, and fall asleep. The only thing I would do is check the accuracy of the oil gauge. I own a 2004 Silverado and the instrument cluster in that generation of truck is junk. I know that from personal experience. Fortunately, it is easy to remove and costs about $80 to rebuild.
The issue with the pickup oring is that the pump is sucking up air and oil. Your still getting pressure but it's way worse than just oil at 35psi. An air oil mixture can do some bad things
I've had issues with the delco filters that end with an E...I would loose 10 psi or more after 3-4,000 miles (I use full synthetic at 6,000 change intervals) I switched to a wicks filter and haven't had any problems since...
On the later model LS engines with GM’s Active Fuel Management(cylinder deactivation) there is a tiny little cheap screen filter in the lifter manifold just under the oil pressure sensor. This little screen filter can become clogged with sludge over time and prevent the oil pressure sensor from seeing oil pressure when there is no actual internal problem with the engine. Just remove the sensor and replace the filter.
We had a LS with the same clogged screen behind the oil pressure sensor. Was giving is false readings on the gauge. Zero oil pressure or pressure would fluctuate and at times would read perfectly fine.
@@jacobmartin1951 mine was ticking rough and like 10-20 pressure and driving 30-40, I pulled off pan and the oring looked fine but changed anyways same type. There anything else to look for, oil pan very clean, also changing pan gasket and the small gasket by oil filter. Thanks
I got a JY engine that had low oil pressure, pulled it back out put it on the stand, flipped it over just knowing I messed up the o-ring on the pick up tube and it was fine. Reluctantly pulled the thrust bearing main cap and found the bearings and crank grooved like an old 45 record! Decided to just use it as a core and get a crate motor from SummitRacing, best decision I made!
Man I got a low oil pressure out of my 5.3 after about 231,000miles of service❤️👍Maintenance is the key to life and the oil is the blood running thru to keep it alive👍Keep it changed and try Motorkote additive for crankcase and pumps.I use every four oil changes adding 2 ounces per quart of oil.Got 238k on my H2’s 6.0 and runs like new and looks almost new at 15yrs old❤️
Chevys always have good oil pressure no worries you're good long as you kept your oil changed all the time doing a good job keep up the good work Steve from Annapolis
My suggestion having 280k on my 05' Trailblazer EXT LT is to change out the oil pressure sensor up top first. The little filter that connects to it gets clogged and/or the gasket can go bringing oil where the thing connects. Pain to get to in my 5.3L but is often the culprit if none has been messing around with the oil pan.
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 my 2000 sierra 4.8 reads 0 oil pressure and I get a “check oil pressure” light on, however no ticking no nothing, runs and drives perfectly, when I wide open throttle it goes up to about 15 psi and the check oil pressure light turns off, do you think it could be the sensor as well ?
@@akidim13 Inside the top oil pressure sensor there is a filter which can get clogged up. I changed my oil religiously and it was doing the same for me. Granted knowing that the top one is done on my truck I am gonna change the o ring on the pickup tube and the lower sending unit as preventative maintenance even tho the problem is solved. Waiting myself till next oil change. But yea I believe that is your best bet. 7/10 that ends up being the issue. Definitely would know if the oil pump went...
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 my exact thought as well sir, 0 oil pressure would of been disastrous already, thank you… quick question, I heard early models like mine didn’t come with that little filter, not completely sure though
Gotcha. Still probably the case. The filter is an added feature in the newer vehicles even tho there are some who have had the oil leak thru the sensor.
This video brings up the point of why they dont fix these common problems over the life of engines. Not just GM but many issues in different brands. Timing guides in 5.4 cam lifter shredding 5.7 or always one broken exhaust stud ls blocks. Some of these motors have multiple generations and the same basic faults. I work in a fleet garage where these engines see all the maintenance done on schedule as a rule and encounter the same issues over and over.
My 5.3 was the two O-rings in the pickup tube.. Problem for me was, the truck was a 4WD, and to get the oil pan off, I needed to remove the transfer case in order to replace a couple of $2 O-rings.. Thanks GM.
Impeccable timing Richard. I’ve just bought my first LS powered vehicle. 2002 Tahoe with 300k miles and fluctuating/low oil pressure. Hahahaha wish me luck.
@@edgarsi it was indeed the o-ring. I played with it for a while before I took it apart. A couple things I did the first was park it on a super steep hill nose to the top and see if pressure drops then park the other way nose down and see if pressure holds. The oil will cover the spot with the o ring and allow it to build normal pressure when you nose down. It was the case for me so I drove the truck around with the oil overfilled by 2 quarts so it would bring the level up to cover the oring at the pump and it would build good pressure. That was a good fix for the moment but it leaked a bit since the level was up to the front and rear main seal. Ended up doing a full reseal with the motor still in the truck. While I had it open scraped all the carbon from the heads and pistons, did a new cam, rings, rod bearings, and the slightly higher pressure pump from melling. Runs and drives perfect now took it on a couple road trips since then. Went wheeling at Anza borego good fun did well for a stock truck the g80 locker is great on uneven terrain.
@@SpecialAgentJamesAki Oh wow James, this was quite a journey. Thanks for reply! I just got my 04 truck and now facing this pressure problem. Known issue for the 5.3 vortec :( gotta try your "hill method" and if it shows - maybe replacing the o-ring cuz I don't think its a sending unit, then I 'll go from there.. Im not ready to invest into engine rebuild or anything major lol
@@edgarsi I hope it goes well. It’s definitely worth a shot at just doing the oring. Be carful not to upset the rear cover that holds the rear main seal it’s easy to make those leak when putting the oil pan back on. I think I could have gotten away with just doing the oring but I suffer from terminal 3 “while I’m in there” syndrome.
@@SpecialAgentJamesAki hehe same here man, and since they gonna drop the front diff and take all the stuff apart.. I thought about getting all them gaskets replaced at the same time.. cuz they are all super cheap, its the labor they charge for.. :( got my main rear leaking anyways... pump in the front, pickup tube on the bottom and rear main on the back of the engine... jeez and I so hoped to avoid this sht lol
I've got one reading about the same way and I've already done an overhaul with a pump and bearings. Mine was closer to 300,000 when I built it because of the DOD issues and eliminated all of that. I run it on Mobile 1 with A/C Filter. Retired GM Technician. I'm wishing I put a washer under the pressure/bypass after the fact.
My 2002 5.3L always had over 40 psi at idle, but never rose above ~57 psi at speed as read on the dash gauge. At 116000 miles it is apart now, no issue found with pickup or or O ring. No sludge or undue wear on anything. Will be replacing oil pump, sender and barbell along with all new bottom end seals.
It's good to see you make a video of this. All quoted specifications aside if you see the oil pressure drop from where it normally runs you might as well check into it. More than likely the issue is caused by the cam bearings, but it could simply need a new pump or pump o'ring. Being a normal car guy that means a larger camshaft, timing chain, and Melling 10295 or 10296 if the cam bearings look ok. If not then it needs a crank rods and pistons to make it a 383 for testing purposes for your channel...
Hey Richard I’m sorry I’m late to this but I got one for you I have a 08 trailblazer super sport 6.0 ls2. First motor started knocking on acceleration and oil pressure dropped to 20 psi. The engine ended up locking up at the dealership. GM replaced it $11,000 later No cost to me. Second motor GM Put in Corvette yellow top head LS2. New motor came with Corvette oil pan and sending unit. Mechanic had to put my old oil pan and my old sending unit on the new motor. Truck was ridiculously fast then I would notice zero oil pressure on start up. After a few revs oil pressure with Build back up to 40 psi. From cold starts to every start the truck would have zero oil pressure and tapping valves until I could get the pressure to rise(40psi). Now it’s tap tap tap squeak squeak squeak zero oil pressure all the time. I call GM and they want me to pay to have the engine broken down and looked at before they think about replacing the second engine. Truck has been sitting for over 4 years now with only 20,000 miles on new motor. Truck has used mobile one synthetic oil only and do you think by replacing the sending unit that it may build pressure? I remember the mechanic showing me the trailblazer version picks up from the back and the new motor picks up from the front he had to bend and re-locate my sending unit. So frustrated.
Puuners Jabski lol , one of my friends is like that also , he lives rite beside a gas station and works only a few miles from there also so he'll run his pickup literally rite to the edge of empty lol
Awesome video!, iam having the same exact problem and I watched several videos on here and said no way! My engine has a low oil pressure problem because it was rattling (valve training noise) at 5 or 10 lbs pressure! Thanks for sharing this with everyone!
Tech tip never let your gas go below 1/4 tank. The reason being that the gas cools the pump and when you run it low there's no gas surrounding the pump to cool the pump
As long as your oil pressure gauge reads an oil pressure above 5, i would strongly suggest you first pour into your oil an oil flush like Medic, run at idle for 5 minutes, then change oil, using a good oil filter, and put in as part of your oil a quart of Lucas oil stablizer!! Then see how the pressure is. This worked for me. My oil pressure went to 36 to 42 regardless if just starting or running for a half hour. I did not need a new pressure gauge and screen filter. With mileage over 200,000 do this once a year. Best wishes.
My old shop had a steam cleaner and the other guy that worked there thought it was faster not to use it. Even doing something like engine mounts or an oil pan is so much nicer when you can eat off the old one.
Richard Holdener when are you moving out of Cali like everyone else lol? The whole motortrend crew needs to relocate also before it’s illegal to touch your car.
My 2000 Suburban had same issue but fluctuated a bit more at hot idle. Easy to test for o-ring. Added more oil and backed up on car ramps. At hot idle pressure was steady 47 pounds. What that did was covered the pickup tube to pump junction with oil to stop sucking air. DON'T drive it overfilled though. I don't remember how much oil it took to cover it.
Have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 4.8 that had a sudden oil pressure loss one winter. I drive short trips to work and town probably less then 3 miles each way. I found my oil was getting pretty sludgy from short trips. I switched to a higher quality oil and change it around 1000 miles which takes a long time for me to rack up. Has been fine ever since.
I found several causes in my stock 2010 5.3L but ultimately it was a clogged oil galley between the test port you show and the oil filter adapter where it bolts to the oil pan and block. Also the screen was clogged below the oil pressure sensor. I did a couple videos to try and help others diagnose their oil pressure issues.
My 06 Suburban was getting wildly fluctuating readings on oil pressure. Sometimes going to 0 and staying there while driving. Replaced the oil sending unit and no change. Changed oil from 5w-30 quaker state/fram filter to 10W-40 Castrol high mileage, AC Delco filter, and a quart of Lucas oil stop leak. Pressure stays steady around 30 while idling and 40 or so while driving. Motor has 255K on it so just going to keep driving until something blows and will eventually drop in the replacement motor. Oh, and this girl leaks lots of oil. Shop quoted me $2000 to replace all the seals (rear main, etc). Decided to buy one of those big rubber garage mats and just wipe it up every week or so. If I'm dropping $2K it will be towards the replacement motor.
My 2006 4.8L w/ 322K is always helped by an oil change with Castrol GTX 5W-30. Before the oil change the pressure is 20 at hot idle and 35 on the freeway and it always goes up to 30 at hot idle and 45 on the freeway. I'm always glad to see it go back up. Also, I would think that 15W-40 would read higher than 5W-30. Anyway, Thank You for all the Cool Videos. I have learned so much from them and I appreciate your work. Today's T-shirt said "BeTHANKFUL" and I am! :-)
@@swan9680 Correct, I bought an O-ring but have not installed it. I had a new OEM oil pressure sensor installed a few years back when the oil pressure kind of zeroed. Also, on my last oil change at 352K the oil pressure with the Castrol GTX 5W-30 (white jug) never really went down before the Oil Change Light cam on. That's the first time that has happened and I like it, haha. I assuming the Csstrol product has been updated and improved rather than my 4.8L healing itself. 🙂
I use/believe in oil sampling on my low performance V-6/4.3 chevy . After 700K miles in one 15+ litre Cummins the oil drain sample tells me more about the engine. Yes your oil pressure was low, and you could not find problem but cutting open your filter did not show up any issues. Yes, oil sampling would not have found the o ring failure, but at least you have peace of mind for other issues like fuel dilution ,water leaks and gaskets failures, etc !
I've seen 9 different LS engines with a spun #3 or #4 cam bearing in the last 7yrs. All but one were on synthetic oil. Both aluminum and iron blocks (half and half-ish). Lowest was 84k, highest was 324k. 4.8/5.3/6.0 and 6.2s. 3 had previously had pumps done elsewhere before they ended up at my shop. 5.3 MDI and 6.2 are most common I've seen. One 4.8, one lq4, 1 lq9, one 5.3 iron. Aluminum blocks seem to be worse overall. I had one 5.3 the customer just kept it 5qts overfilled with oil and drove it 20K miles. Never really smoked, and had enough pressure at times to keep the top end lubed up...LOL>......
Nice to hear , I had one of those that two cam bearings spun and snapped the timing chain , nobody had heard of this so it was tough to figure out at first but after a total rebuild it has 45k on it and now it’s loosing oil pressure , going to replace the o ring , it has 18 lbs pressure at idle ?
My 04 Chevy pickup has done that for over 100,000 miles. It's nothing to worry about until the O ring totally gives up the ghost. Nice to know it's a relatively easy fix!
If your oil pressure is OK after a cold start and then slowly gets lower (too low, as in below 10psi) as the engine warms and the oil warms/thins, that's a sign that the issue is the camshaft thrust plate that Richard showed in the video. That built-in gasket on the back of the plate can wear down (mine was practically flat) and when the oil warms up and thins out, it slips passed that plate and drains passed the timing gears and goes straight down into the oil pan - effectively bypassing the oil pump - and you see the oil pressure drop to below 10. I was baffled by this for a while. The low oil pressure alarm would go off, I would pull over, turn off the car, let it sit for a minute or so, crank it back up, oil pressure was back to normal because the oil pan had refilled, I could drive anywhere from 1 mile to 10 miles and the alarm would go off again). I replaced what was probably a functioning oil pump (but it had nearly 200k miles on it), the oil sending unit and that little screen underneath, and the problem persisted. I know now the oil pump was fine, it just didn't have enough oil to circulate because that worn gasket was letting too much slip by and not be available to the pump.
@@DURONMYG it’s a big project for a driveway mechanic, but very doable. It takes some effort to get to that plate. I understand why a shop would charge so much for labor. This happened during the lockdown m, so I had time on my hands and I was motivated to save money by not paying all that labor to have someone else do it. I did not replace the timing chain , btw. There are a couple of helpful YT videos out there (once you sift through all the ones focusing on replacing the oil pump, oil pump pickup tube o-ring, sending unit/filter,… Good luck!
@kyle Martin Hi. I'm down in Australia. Have a 2011 Toyota Kluger ( Highlander ) 550,000 kms. EXACT same symptoms as you had. If its thrust plate how many hours labor would you say for a shop mechanic to replace ?? I'll probably do what you did and also do Oil pump, O-ring AND maybe a oil flush for sludge. Might as well do the Oil pressure sensor as well. Any suggestions ??
@@TheTopend2 Hi Troy, I did the work in my driveway during the COVID lockdown so I was in no particular hurry. My best guess is that for a mechanic with a lift and proper tools it could perhaps be done in 2 to 4 hours. The biggest pain is having to drop the front differential to get to the last oil pump bolt and then having to take care to get the timing gears and chain reinstalled correctly. If your Toyota doesn’t have the same access issue for that last bolt, then maybe the differential can be left in place and the process may be quicker/easier. Hope that helps. I’m not a mechanic although after finishing that project my kids surprised me with a sticker that says “Certified TH-cam Mechanic” 🤣 All the best to you!
I had a similar problem yrs ago shortly after oil change a friend of mine suggested to put another filter on, that cured the problem I must have had a bad filter.
Same thing happened to my 06 silverado 5.3 with 313k miles on it. Turns out it was the O ring just like yours. Replaced it and cleaned the filter screen ect. now pressure is back up.
My 02 1500hd started and warmed up with essentially zero oil pressure for the better part of a year. The winter was absolutely brutal. It sounded like an army of angry little blacksmiths in there beating on internals. At that point the engine had 365,000 on it and was low on power anyhow. I ran it as long as I could stand and then traded that same worn out 6.0 to a hot rodder buddy for swapping the engine with a reman for me. I'm sure it was the o-ring culprit as it usually is and I could've "saved" the engine but with low power anyway I knew a swap was imminent. A fresh 5.3 is going in now so hopefully I can improve the mileage a tad. Keep up with the awesome content!!
How different would the oil pressure reading be from a sensor mounted from an oil cooler block off plate (right after the pump) vs. where the sender sits on the back top of the block? 5 PSI? 10 PSI?
@@richardholdener1727 I appreciate the reply but my question is what would the difference be if you mounted the mechanical gauge on the top of the block instead of after the oil pump. Do you think you would lose a few psi?
I just picked up a 2010 Tahoe from a Copart auction with 200k miles. I notice that the oil pressure was a bit low on my way home and eventually had Zero, turns out, the filter was very loose and it was loosing lots of oil. Did a quick oil change in a parking lot and problems solved.
Great video! Very to the point and very helpfull. I have a 03 Yukon xl and my entire dash dosent work. I kno i know i need to get that fixed but honestly with the digital info center it tells me everything i need to know so i havnt wasted money fixing the dash. Well that being said i recently had a "low oil pressure" message come across. The level isnt low because i check every time i put fuel in it. But i have procrastinated on changing the oil lately due to covid and the cold and lets be real...me just being lazy. This 5.7 had been about the only thing reliable in my life lately. Lol... so i watched some videos and this one. Flushed the oil...learned how to cut open a filter...thanks to you. Luckily no metal shavings etc. And then did the flush with the different w like in this video and BAM she is right back up to the pressure i should be! No more stupid warnings. So thanks for taking the time to film this and share it. It helped me so much. Keep up the great videos. From your new friend.....Chandler
Richard I had a customer that had low oil psi and it turned out to be worn out cam bearings . I have also had a broken pressure regulator spring in the oil pump in older chevy small blocks. It muct be nice to be able to just slide under the truck to work on it . My fat head and gut says I need to use jack and jack stands. Glad it was just an oring.
I bought a MINT 2004 LT Chev Silverado 6.0 with low oil pressure from a guy that knew mechanics... after watching 1000 videos I bought a New GM Oil O-ring and a GM Oil Pickup-tube W/O-ring (both O-rings were Red)... removing Oil pan I can see a Brand New Melling Oil Pump and New Melling Green O-ring... Seller told me he installed a New Oil Sender (found)... Pulled Melling Pump to see if Oil bypass piston was stuck (Nope)... Pulled Motor to rebuild hoping a Cam Bearing walked out a bit.... Oil and Filter was Super clean small pile of iron shavings about the size of a Dime found in sludge in pan, hoping that's the Cam Bearing hitting the crank... Engine ran Super Smooth with the low oil pressure when I bought the truck...
Sometimes the pick up tube rear brace is pulling the tube to the rear of the engine and sometimes it is holding it to the front of the engine so the guy installing the tube has to look for that issue. Also as the parts heat up, the expansion of the engine and the tube may not be optimal especially on the early LS engines that can also cause the tube to be pulled or pushed off center. This off center tube and o-ring can allow air to be sucked past the o-ring and blended with the engine oil. I am pretty sure, the fat o-ring was intended to prevent that from occurring. Anyway, when installing the pick up tube into the hole of the pump check the rear brace to see if the bolt hole is centered over the stud. If it's not, you can drill the hole slightly over size or try bending the bracket to align better with the mounting stud without pulling the tube in one direction or the other. Also, there are brackets that can be installed over the tube where it enters the pump (see the link) that hold the pickup into the pump using two bolts. Also that early design pickup tube with the blue color o-ring is sometimes difficult to get them to seal. Just be sure the tube support bracket is not fighting the fit of the o-ring in the pump. www.amazon.com/Billet-Pickup-Girdle-Support-551910/dp/B0784JPH59/ref=sr_1_4?crid=ENMSREI95GML&dchild=1&keywords=improved+racing+egm-500+ls+engine+oil+pump+pickup+tube+brace%2Fgirdle&qid=1600656102&sprefix=improved+racing%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-4 I am not saying this is the best one to get. There are many choices and all seem reasonable I just like the double bolt design over the single bolt crows foot design.
Found out that in the aluminum ls blocks the lifter bores wear out and cause low oil pressure. A friend that owns a machine shop diagnosed a low pressure 6.2 and after 2 tear downs, found as much as .008-.009 lifter clearance. Factory spec is no more than .0015 I believe. They can be opened up and an oversize lifter used or can be sleeved.
Good video Richard. Being a Chevy tech and I agree with you the GM truck and suv have gauge/instrument panel accuracy issues. By the way I notice the AWESOME frame picture on the wall over your right shoulder at 12:40. CORY MAC’s top fuel dragster.?. I have that model dragster. Keep up the awesome work on the GM LS engines
I had low pressure on my 2020 5.3. 225000 miles. I had a bunch of sludge in the bottom of the pan. So much that when I took my plug out nothing camer out the the drain hole. My guess is that it was blocking the intake. I used to change my oil ever 5k with mobile 1. Now I change every 2.5k. and use a small coat hanger with a hook on the end and rake the sludge out of the hole. After about 5 oil changes using this technique I have removed most of the sludge and my oil pressure is back to normal.
I'm leaning towards cam bearings in my 07 LQ4. It came in with low op. I put a mech gauge on it at the sender and it was low. I put a new pump and o ring in it, it is still low at the sender , but good pressure at the pump. Ended up replacing the engine and keeping this one.
I know Rich's video is now 2 years old, but I just run across a recent one with a stock daily driver 6.0 with a low pressure issue. They were following the same advice but the mechanic took a flashlight. Took a good look inside his engine and noticed a one of the center cam bearing walked out in was causing a low oil pressure issue.
I'm afraid this is my issue. Built my 6.0L with btr truck norris cam, lifters, heads intake, headers the whole 9 yards. 6 months after the build was compete daily driving, I went from 40psi idle to 10psi and a furry oil drain plug. Still driving it this way and it's been almost a year since it dropped. I have an LQ9 I'll be building to swap in its place
I think people are missing the point at the beginning where Richard said his truck normally makes much more than 36 and he’s trying to figure out why the pressure drop happened. Not that 36 is too low, but that generally it was higher and now it is not. Of course 36 psi is fine warm at low idle.
Yep that change would bother me too. I had a SBC that ran 18 PSI hot at idle and 60 at 7000. But it always ran that way from day 1 and never changed so I said F-it. But a chance is a red flag. Great video 👌
I think people are just joking about what gm claims is normal compared to what we are used too. I know i have changed heads on a few dozen tritons with ford within spec oil pressure.
Even the felpro replacement oring is not a snug fit, we have a huge section of viton orings and i have been matching a more snug fit size to fit the bore and pickup tube. If u look at how much room there is for the oring u can actually stack 2 in there without an issue. I'm sure i will catch slack for that but, how soon do u want to do this job again??
the tell on the o-ring is that you will have NO pressure for the first second if it's been sitting for a couple of hours, as the tube has drained out. Another test is to get the truck seriously nose down and add enough extra oil to get oil over the top of the o-ring. Every LS I over 15 years old have done has had a bad o-ring. If it's not that, it's the center cam bearing walking out....
My truck (5.3) had very low oil pressure when it was cold ... still does actually, but now it has a bad rod knock and I haven't driven it in more than 2 years. I need to replace the engine but I'm disabled and can't do that myself anymore. either way though, my low oil pressure only started after Walmart changed the oil. They change the oil by vacuuming it out of the oil pan. Yeah they use a vacuum canister and hose to suck the oil out. The original rapid oil change used to do that, they got sued so much they had to close their doors and sell off to valvoline.
Appreciate the know how on the oil pressure! My lifters makes that same noise. A couples of people said to pour diesel oil into it and it should fix the problem. I’m very hesitant to that whereas I believe the problem would persist ,cause further damage,or do nothing what so ever. What do u think? I wanna correct the problem
I got around 50 psi when its cold but when it worms up I got between 15 ~ 17psi since 2015... I replaced the oil pump, O-ring and sending unit twice and the reading remain the same. L92 Escalade 2007. It is still alive because Im very conservative while driving but now im planning to boost the truck 👀
I have a 2008 esky. It was reading around 11-12 at idle hot. It would never go over 30 even a 3K RPM. I had the melling HV oilpump and o ring installed now it goes to 55-60 at cold idle but still dips to 22-24 at hot idle. It did stop my lifter tapping after driving on the highway. I'm still not sure how much life is left in it at 212K miles.
Would have been nice to do the test to determine that it indeed was the pickup tube o-ring. Add additional oil to crankcase and raise rear of vehicle to submerge the area of the joint between pickup tube and oil pump. If there is a leak, oil pressure should increase back to normal.
In the video there was a light tapping knocking noise in your motor my truck has the same noise and lower oil pressure like yours. Did changing the o ring fix that noise? Was it low oil on the lifters causing it? Or is it soemthing else along with my lower oil pressure?
2003 suburban had low oil pressure,, I’d replaced d oil pump with a hi volume pump,, now gauge gors to 70 at idle, is it normal, of course, has new w40 oil
Most of the low oil pressure issues with older LS motors I’ve done have been the oil passage gasket in the pan! Many times people wait too long to get it fixed and it causes major engine damage!
Thanks for the info, my LQ4 has had low oil pressure for a little while. It was also noisy on startup so I assumed sloppy lifters, but then I found the startup noise - leaky manifold gaskets caused by broken bolts. So now I need to dig into the oil pressure further.
My lm7 has the same issue. Lifter tick when cold due to broken manifold studs. What worries me, though, is that I get a top end rattle at about 3000 rpm under a load. It goes away by 4. I wouldn't be surprised if I have a collapsed lifter or bent pushrod since the truck is kind of gutless. Oh well. That's what Junkyards are for. (:
I have found the screen under the sending unit plugged showing low psi. Have you ever shimmed the regulator in the oil pump to increase psi or port the pump housing to help flow?
The oil pressure gauge in my S10 has always read just below 20psi at idle with the oil up to operating temp. Under acceleration or cruise it hold about 45-50. I did find the sender to be leaking some oil a few years back and replaced it. No change in pressure. The truck currently has 489,000 miles and still has the same pressures.
Had same problem in our 01 yukon. Tried the pressure sensor but ultimately the final fix was the o-ring on the pickup tube. I would get a lot of lifter rattling on start up due to very slow buildup of oil pressure. It would take almost 10 seconds for the engine to build oil pressure on cold start. After o-ring replacement that time dropped to 2 seconds.
Ive got a 08 5.3L silverado. It seems i need to take off the suspension partially to get the oil reservoir off to get to these tubes. Ive only taken the metal cover and drained the oil so far. Hope it’s just the o ring. I noticed a drop a few weeks ago, but today it’s at 0.
same mine ended up being the pickup tube o-ring and the back plate on block for the main seal on the internal top part and also check the barbell on back of block its only there for production hole drilling so u don't bypass filter etc. so if orings are old it will bleed by and cause low pressure too lastly the plunger under pressure spring on pump if it is stuck open it will allow oil to recirculate in pump and never go to engine..
What are some of the thicker oil additives you guys use? I have a LS with 300k miles. Oil pressure isn't horrible, but not great. Already replaced the o ring which did help. I'd rather just run a thicker oil or additives if it helps on an older engine.
For my Saab 97x (yes a Saab had a lh6 5.3!) it was the oil pickup ring. But unlike your truck the saabs oil pan is like a 6 hour venture. Might as well replace everything else while in there haha had thr same issue hot oil pressure was under 20. Rev it up and oil pressure drops and as soon as you let off it would spike again.
Richard wheres the after shot of of the mechanical gauge post o-ring replacement? What do you have now? 50,60,70 psi? Dont leave me hangin like this!!!!
I worked with a guy who condemned 5 LS based engines for low oil pressure. Each engine was replaced with either new or rebuilt. The tech ALWAYS ended up with the old engine. He’s then replace the CORRECT part to replace, and sell the engine and pocket all the cash. When I let the service manager know, I’m the one they reprimanded. People like those guys make good mechanics look really bad. If you’re in the Boise Idaho area and you need automotive work done, call around. If someone named Rocky answers the phone, don’t go to that shop.
No one likes a tattle tale.
@@EChunter wouldn’t you want to know if someone was stealing from you?
@@jakematthews6982 I'm not dumb enough to just pay a shop because 1 mechanic says so on a job that costly .
@@EChunter you won't but your mom or grandmother would.
@@D.W.e.s.t. unlikely but possible. However neither of them will ever see videos on you tube so that point while slightly possible is moot.
Changed an LS oil pump on a very similar truck with a 5.3L that had 408,xxx miles and it was just flat worn out. Not to mention the exact same O-ring on the pickup was also cracked. This particular truck had less than 10psi at idle. No engine problems noted. Oil pressure restored and it is still running to this day. These are really good engines. And that is coming from a die hard SBF fan.
I spun a cam bearing in another type of motor. That gave me lower oil pressure
My 6.0 is having the exact same problem. About 5 lbs idling in gear, and averaging 19 lbs driving. When I let off the pedal, the oil pressure goes up momentarily.
I have a 2008 esky. It was reading around 11-12 at idle hot. It would never go over 30 even a 3K RPM. I had the melling HV oilpump and o ring installed now it goes to 55-60 at cold idle but still dips to 22-24 at hot idle. It did stop my lifter tapping after driving highway. I'm still not sure how much life is left in it at 212K miles.
Thanks for your Comment I am a Chevy guy but I definitely give props to other brands as well there is ingenious technology in American motors I do love and support all 3 till the day I die ❤ !!! Full time shop owner and mechanic for the last 25 years!!! TO THE LAND OF THE FREE AND THE HOME OF THE BRAVE !!!
i have this issue right now. my psi is at 1.7 and idk what to do
I changed the engine oil in my 2013 GMC Sierra a week ago. I've had this truck for over two years and have grown accustomed to where the oil pressure guage rests throughout the warming cycle and normal operation.
This time I used the usual Pennzoil 5W-30 Platinum Full Synthetic along with a new-to-me ACDelco PF48E filter that was available locally. I usually have a couple Wix 57060XP on the shelf but had run out and couldn't find one locally.
I drove to work the next day and at the first traffic signal I noticed my oil pressure guage reading a bit lower than usual. The truck is usually at 30-35 PSI idling in drive and 40-45 driving at 1.5k-2k RPM. But now it was 18-20 PSI idling and 22-26 PSI while driving.
I started watching YT videos trying to diagnose the oil pressure issue myself. I added a drop of Lucas Oil Stabilizer, no change.
I dropped the oil pan (pain in the rear) and changed the fabled o-ring, no change.
I bought a new oil sending unit. Before replacing that I decided to pause and ask...
WHAT CHANGED?
AHH. The oil filter was a different brand. Maybe that's it?!
This morning I climbed under the truck with a drain pan and swapped out the brand new ACDelco PH48E with a brand new Wix 57060XP filter. Topped off the oil and started the truck up.
Dog gone it! The truck was BACK to the normal oil pressure readings of 30 - 45 PSI.
I don't know if the new ACD PF48E had a bad check valve or the media was too restrictive...
Fellers, if you find yourself parts-cannoning after a similar situation stop first and ask yourself: WHAT CHANGED?
I'm relieved that my truck isn't busted and it was a simple oversight.
I hope this helps someone out there.
same ! oil filter was my problem
I change my on ring put I still have low oil pressure I guess I will have to try the new filter and new oil I hope this does the trick thanks for the help mark.
My Tahoe is doing the same thing! It was fine before the oil, filter change and now my pressure is low and randomly throwing the No pressure turn it off warning. I can’t afford to randomly buy new parts to test 🤦🏻♀️😭I don’t know what to do
@@mizzladyluck85 Purchase the Wix or Napa Gold filter that fits your vehicle. Have the shop that did your oil change replace the filter they put on with the new one you bought.. Then start it up and drive it a bit. The five to ten dollar difference in filter cost is much cheaper than an oil starved engine replacement.
@@ddforrester they put a/c delco on it which I think that’s what was on it but I think it’s the sensor screen possibly
1) so glad you didn’t just say “10 psi per 1000 rpm, that’s good enough.” :) Sure that’s fine for some engines, but when you see a sudden change, the fact that it CHANGED is much more important than the actual pressure.
2) Weirdest one I ever had was on a 440. As you know they have an external oil pump and the oil pressure regulator is built into the pump cover. The cover is an iron casting that incorporates the filter mount, and internallyhas a machined passage with a spring-loaded piston that lifts at the set pressure and dumps excess oil from the pump outlet to the pump inlet (remember this for later...). This particular engine had lost an engine mount, shifted sideways, and bumped against the subframe (which I didn’t know at the time). I fixed the mount and drove a few weeks with no issues. Then one day, as everyone with a big block will occasionally do, I let ‘er rip to redline through first gear and enjoyed the screech when it shifted to second. But when I Iet off at cruise speed, I had about 30 psi instead of the usual 65. At idle it was less than 10 instead of the usual 25. Uh oh. I decided to change the oil and check for glitter- none, not even in the filter pleats. Put in new oil, filled the filter, and cranked her up... ZERO oil pressure! Ran it plenty long, and the lifters were getting very noisy, so I knew I had an issue. Long story short, when the oil pump cover kissed the subframe when the motor mount broke, it slightly dented the machined cylinder in the cover casting where the relief valve piston rides. My WOT blast had made the relief valve travel it’s full length for the first time since the motor mount broke, and the relief valve piston hung in the open position because of the pinched spot in the bore. Since the pump and oiling system were full, I just had low pressure... but as soon as I changed the oil it allowed air into the pickup tube and pump, and with the relief valve open and effectively connecting the inlet to the outlet AND being filled with air instead of oil, it couldn’t draw oil up the pickup tube and to the pump at all. Pulled an oil pump cover out of my parts pile, cleaned it and checked the piston travel, installed it, and all was well. That was 25+ years ago and that engine is still running well today.
I wish I had been as smart as you or could have gotten some good advice about my 440. I don't think my cover got dented but I did run the engine up to 5500 through all the gears and then parked it a few minutes later. After dark I moved the car inside and no oil pressure. That experience caused me to let the car set a long time until I parted it out. What a waste. I bet I could have fixed it in 30 minutes or less based on your comment. Live and learn ........
my dads 04 chevy silverado has a 5.3 ls motor and some years back it started reading low oil pressure but then the volt meter started acting up and then i did some research and found out that the instrument clusters in gm cars and trucks had some serious issues, so i went to my local napa dealer and got another updated cluster and the oil pressure issue was solved i really appreciate you showing us how you figured out your issue thanks for that!
So just replacing the dash cluster fixed the problem? I’m having a few issues with my 2004 Silverado cluster.
Had the very same thing happen to my 2005 Yukon XL Denali. 182K miles all of a sudden the lifters started ticking on startup and after it was warm it wouldn't hold over 20 PSI on HOT idle where it used to be 40+ HOT idle. Going down highway it was about 50 PSI (not far off from normal) so I knew it wasn't the bearings. I bought a Melling High volume oil pump and new pickup tube, Installed in the garage over a 3 day weekend and BAM 50 PSI hot Idle no lifter tick 80 PSI at 6000 RPM. Melling recommend the high volume since it was a little higher mileage engine, and the high pressure spring was only really good for 7 psi up in the rev range, It didn't change much at idle and they said 80 PSI was still safe. Upon inspection I found the original oil pump pickup O-ring was in good condition, It was the Oil Pump Regulator Spring and Piston that was weak and bleeding off pressure. Have 196K miles on it now and runs great. Don't plan to spend 60K+ dollars on a new Yukon so ill be running this one for a while.
What's the pump name please
i get it...have 208k on a 2007 silverado...luckily no engine issues.....newer truck is nice if can afford , but then insurance company nails you to the wall
If that is low oil pressure I'm in trouble!
Me too!
For real. As long it’s over 20, let her rip tater chip!
If I have 2lbs of pressure per 100 rpm, I'm happy as a pig in Poop!!! Lol
Yep, everything of mine idles at 20 psi or less.
Ditto lol
Coming from an older vortec v6, i thought 35psi at idle was pretty normal.
Mine is an 09, afm disabled via tune.
Had a slight tick at idle, turned off afm and instant fix!
Now i might need a pickup tube o-ring... probably related lifter tick when i have afm enabled? 😶
I have a new to me '02 suburban with LM7. 203k on the meter and no issues so far. Its my first LS so I'm watching all the youtubes to learn all I can about preventative maintenance. Dropping the pan on a 4x4 looks like a lot of extra work.
4x4s need to lower the fron diff, for better clearance
Customer brought in a high-miles truck (LM7) with low oil pressure, but not all the time. He diagnosed it himself LOL and wanted the sender replaced. Still low pressure. (key statement>) Customer claimed he changed the oil himself every 2-3K and wouldn't pay for another oil change so we skipped that step. Came back a couple weeks later with the same complaint, only worse. I dropped the pan to change the o-ring and found the pan was full of sludge and the pickup was stopped up. Looked like it was full of bearing grease - turned out Mr Frequent Oil Change guy was full of shit. I cleaned out the pickup, changed the o-ring and sent shithead on his way with 50-60psi oil pressure.
Know it all Customer was "full of shit" ! Now there's a shocker ! Hahahahah !
I hope you charged the dumbass an appropriate amount for your trouble.
@@mikes9939 I didn't handle the money at that shop, so I don't know what the labor added up to. Probably just swapping the sensor, then doing the oil pump o-ring, however much that was. While I was not surprised a customer would try to bullshit about service history, I was kinda shocked at finding really bad oil sludging in an LS. I come from VW background, where carbon buildup and oil sludging keeps you in business. I expected Chevy to have a better handle on it.
I have had so many "Mr. Pampers" customers...They claim the "Pamper" their vehicles...Yet Their More Likely Full of the same Material found in "Pampers" Diapers...and I don't mean URINE!
@@vr6swp But probably any engine would have serious sludge buildup when you only do an oil change every 50k miles haha
First sign was low oil pressure on guage, tried hard line guage, no difference, Had some lifter noise when idling at stop sign. Time for tear down. Found spun cam bearings. Found out from machinest that LS was known for this in slot of cases. Maybe it had bad o-ring on pickup tube before it spun cam bearing. Pay attention to that oil pressure guage guys!
Love this channel.
This video is really relevant for me. My 2002 Camaro LS1 has had low oil pressure for maybe eight years. I did track days with it steadily since new, and noticed after about 10 years that it was only running about 30 psi when fully hot on track at high rpm. I have not been overly concerned about it, though, because I cut open the used oil filters and never see any bearing debris. And I have oil analyses done that never show high amounts of Aluminum or Iron. I have been assuming that it is a bad reading on the gauge, and have taken the fatalistic attitude that if that amount of oil pressure is not enough, the engine will quit running. I've been wanting to put an LS3 in it for years, but the LS1 just won't die. At 277000 miles, it's earned a rest.
Just send it to me then jeez sounds like this motor wants another 277k
@@SaveOurSnipers Currently 296k.
I have a 2001 z28 with ls1 and as u can guess I'm here cause I'm having low oil pressure. It runs at 35 and goes up to like 42. This is after changing the oil pressure sensor
@@SaveOurSnipers I got $27,000 mi on mine running the same pressure as yours and ready for another 207000
What is the spec for oil pressure, the pressure depends on how much clearance you have on bearings, I would expect 35-40 is good at idle, and go to 50-55 at 3000 rpm!
My 02 with 320,000 started having tons of lifter noise. Not even 15-40 would quiet things down. Finally used a quart of engine flush before changing oil and it cleaned out some gunk. I also topped things off with MMO. I used this truck to pull trailers when I built houses. Later I delivered mail in the country with it. It's just a matter of time before I spin a bearing, but it's still running decent. Engine Restore helped too (not sure how adding lead and copper to oil increases compression and power, but it did). Anyway, I'll replace the o-ring. Will give me a chance to look around. Thanks for the practical video!
Clean truck man, these body styles have always been my favorite. I have a 2000 with 250k still running 60l-70bs of oil pressure and running like a champ
Jesse, you are right! I have a 2001 Silverado 5.3 and it has 345,000 Miles and is my Daily Driver! Oil changed Faithfully at 4,000 Miles with Napa Gold Filter. I have a new Motor built for when the original one goes, and I am anxious to see with the Mileage it has what the inside looks like. Until then, Chevy all the way!
@@sandyrandall7341 I service quite a few fleet customers and have seen *REALLY WELL MAINTAINED* (using full synthetic Mobil 1) with over 700k on the original engine. Maintained, quickly diagnosed/serviced/repaired if any issues pop up (as they will on any engine/vehicle) and never having been *badly* overheated and the 4.8/5.3/6.0L engines are probably the most durable trouble free engines on the market and have been for 20 years now. I know the engines with active fuel management seemingly encounter oil pressure issues due to lifter related failures though if promptly serviced these too seem to be pretty much bulletproof.
I got the maroon stepside, extended cab 2001, Like a rock, 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻👍👍
I recently had a cam change in my 2011 GMC Sierra it's a Howard asa cam intake D. 226 exhaust D. 236 duration 274/285 lift 525 .. wondering why this tuner cannot get my truck right just wondering if you could point me in the right direction you put the truck in park you mash the gas RPMs go up RPMs drop almost cuts the truck off if you put the truck in neutral it does the same thing as this is happening the oil pressure drops also .hoping someone can point me in the right direction.. ....
HEy Richard you're missing something MUSIC! HAd a 72 olds cutlass no pressure on oil gauge put a pressure gauge near oil filter pressure present. Remove manual gauge & place it where the sending unit goes zero. All this was happening during a crank no start test. I poped the distributor out & crank the pump shaft with valve covers out no oil out of the rockers. Removed the block tore it down oil galleys for the lifters plugged cam lobes on cyl. 4& 6 flat. Crank journals all scored. Called a friend he had an LS 6.0 truck engine built 420 HP customer said lets do it. I'm still working on it rebuilding an auto trans TH350.Yup baad oil clogged the oil galleys. Richard thanks for the vid keep uploading & I'll be watching.
Richard I’m a fan and love your content very informative
I am a gen 12&3 ls fan 90% of the low oil pressure problems I deal with has been that oring You would be surprised at the number of asc certified trained mechanics that just don’t know and would sell the customer an oil pump that’s not needed and accidentally fix the problem with a new oil pump but only because they installed the new oring while installing the new pump ultimately fixing the issue but blaming the wrong part
My 02 surburban 386k original miles nothing but oil changes and regular maintenance op around 20 psi dropped the pan replaced green oring at operating temp 50 -70 psi
Thanks for information though I’m going to share this cuz nobody believes without seeing
Most mechanics get a pay percentage on parts replaced.
@Tammy Feddersen not how that works they get paid on the job based on flat rate time. If a job pays 6 hours to do and it takes you 8 you only get paid for 6.
@@mzuvin5705 This depends if the mechanic is working as Self-Employed or for a Larger Company associated with a Dealer and the Brand of Cars it has been franchised, contracted, or/& licensed to sell along with the associated Used/Pre-Owned Division. Body Shops & Automotive Repair Shops performing repairs for insurance purposes is more likely to go by your mention of “Given 6 Hours to Repair Job” scenario and EACH INDIVIDUAL MECHANIC’s efficiency, experience, expertise, & skill level encapsulates the issue of spending more time than the GIVEN LABOR HOURS PAID FOR THE PARTICULAR REPAIR in a Detailed Line Item Repair Quote and subsequent Repair Shop gaining the Business of that Client or Customer.
Yep I've heard that's the most common issue. My 02 Chevy with the LM7 iron block LS has 220k and just dropped some oil pressure. Gonna check that O ring tomorrow
Just bought an 2001 Sierra 4x4 and took it down the interstate. Started dropping pressure, 20 psi and falling, and you’d hear clacking. Turn it off and crank it back up and pressure would return. Changed my pick up tube o-ring and deleted the oil cooler and 42 lbs at idle and 60 cruising! Not bad for a truck with 273k miles!
I have a '96 Camaro with a 3800 in it that hasn't had oil pressure at idle and never more than 25 PSI at higher RPMs for the last 20k miles. I figured it wasn't worth fixing (tried replacing the pressure sender because that was easy) and figured I'd just drive it until it blows, but it's hanging in like a champ.
An O-ring. I've looked far and wide and NEVER heard of this. Thanks! And thanks to the others with the screen under the sending unit comments.
You've been looking far and wide in the wrong places!! These damn O-rings are an Achilles heel of the LS motors. Why in the HELL GM had to use 3 or 4 different size O-rings 🤔 I'll NEVER know. Many LS engines ruined by people using the wrong O-ring. Thanks GM!!!
Cam bearings and camshafts are known issues on these. When the lifter fails, it starts hammering the hardened roller against the cam. The lifter fails due to varnish. Flush regularly, and use synthetic, especially with Displacement On Demand.
Also, with the Displacement On Demand option, the oil return valve is known to atomize the hot oil, so there is an oil baffle update for that to reduce it from breaking down the oil into varnish. Because there are cooling oil jets bouncing off the backs of the pistons, it causes more oil atomization, and requires the oiling system be flushed regularly. This will keep the pickup screen from plugging up.
What is GM recommending to use as a flush?
@@CptKirKBo Oh, they recommend nothing. Bad for business. The regular over-the-counter oil flush will do.
@@vilefly Makes sense...I'm really familiar with most things GM and don't ever recall them recommending a flush. I personally won't flush any engine UNLESSD I can verify it's not a "sludge monkey" as that's just instant death (unless willing to disassemble the pan/pump/screen afterwards as the screen will block in real short order)though on engines I've serviced and KNOW are clean,I have done this quite a number of times. Thanks for the answer!
@@CptKirKBo Dropping the oil pan has become part of 100k mile service at my job for these motors. The oil pump pickup tube o ring hardens up and can fail.
I once had a 1977 Ford Granada and I installed a 351 Windsor in it. The motor was rebuilt by someone else and the crank wasn't ground properly. It had 5 lbs of oil pressure at idle and 35 on the road. I drove it that way over 2 years until the transmission went. The motor ran good and I even raced it a few times. I never heard any noises in the engine nor did I notice any metal in the oil when I changed it. It had a decent cam in it and I surprised quite a few people with it. There weren't too many cars back in the smog era that made 375 horsepower. If I had 35 pounds of oil pressure at idle and over 50 on the road I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. In fact at night I would probably turn over, fart, and fall asleep. The only thing I would do is check the accuracy of the oil gauge. I own a 2004 Silverado and the instrument cluster in that generation of truck is junk. I know that from personal experience. Fortunately, it is easy to remove and costs about $80 to rebuild.
The issue with the pickup oring is that the pump is sucking up air and oil. Your still getting pressure but it's way worse than just oil at 35psi. An air oil mixture can do some bad things
Aeriated oil is compressed under pressure.
THAT is why pressure is important.
@@timothybayliss6680and @HotRod Ray - I know you are both correct. On an 18 year old truck, I just wouldn't bother with it.
I've had issues with the delco filters that end with an E...I would loose 10 psi or more after 3-4,000 miles (I use full synthetic at 6,000 change intervals) I switched to a wicks filter and haven't had any problems since...
Love those Wix
On the later model LS engines with GM’s Active Fuel Management(cylinder deactivation) there is a tiny little cheap screen filter in the lifter manifold just under the oil pressure sensor. This little screen filter can become clogged with sludge over time and prevent the oil pressure sensor from seeing oil pressure when there is no actual internal problem with the engine. Just remove the sensor and replace the filter.
Id have a mod done where a tube is installed there and a harness extender installed so it can be changed easily.
We had a LS with the same clogged screen behind the oil pressure sensor. Was giving is false readings on the gauge. Zero oil pressure or pressure would fluctuate and at times would read perfectly fine.
Only on aluminum blocks
They’re on iron blocks too. I’ve made a bunch of money for gauges reading zero and pull sending unit and pull screen out and put new sender in
I've replaced oil pressure sensors on those, screen is definitely an issue
It would have been nice to see the oil pressure difference after you fixed the oil pickup tube o ring.
Mine went from 0 at idle, 30 while driving to about 60 at idle, higher when driving. After I replaced the oil pickup o-ring.
Mine also was around 30-40 idle hot and 60-65 driving hot.
@@jacobmartin1951 mine was ticking rough and like 10-20 pressure and driving 30-40, I pulled off pan and the oring looked fine but changed anyways same type. There anything else to look for, oil pan very clean, also changing pan gasket and the small gasket by oil filter. Thanks
@@erod4489 Which year of truck do you have? The 2008-2013 engine run the numbers you are seeing as normal pressures.
I got a JY engine that had low oil pressure, pulled it back out put it on the stand, flipped it over just knowing I messed up the o-ring on the pick up tube and it was fine. Reluctantly pulled the thrust bearing main cap and found the bearings and crank grooved like an old 45 record! Decided to just use it as a core and get a crate motor from SummitRacing, best decision I made!
I am having the exact same identical issue with my GMC Sierra 1999 SLE truck. I am glad I found this video. Thank you!
Grat topic Richard; stuck oil pump bypass, tons of these back in the day.
Man I got a low oil pressure out of my 5.3 after about 231,000miles of service❤️👍Maintenance is the key to life and the oil is the blood running thru to keep it alive👍Keep it changed and try Motorkote additive for crankcase and pumps.I use every four oil changes adding 2 ounces per quart of oil.Got 238k on my H2’s 6.0 and runs like new and looks almost new at 15yrs old❤️
Chevys always have good oil pressure no worries you're good long as you kept your oil changed all the time doing a good job keep up the good work Steve from Annapolis
An issue I’ve been needing to deal with for a bit, now I have more of an idea of what to check. Thanks Richard!
My suggestion having 280k on my 05' Trailblazer EXT LT is to change out the oil pressure sensor up top first. The little filter that connects to it gets clogged and/or the gasket can go bringing oil where the thing connects. Pain to get to in my 5.3L but is often the culprit if none has been messing around with the oil pan.
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 my 2000 sierra 4.8 reads 0 oil pressure and I get a “check oil pressure” light on, however no ticking no nothing, runs and drives perfectly, when I wide open throttle it goes up to about 15 psi and the check oil pressure light turns off, do you think it could be the sensor as well ?
@@akidim13 Inside the top oil pressure sensor there is a filter which can get clogged up. I changed my oil religiously and it was doing the same for me. Granted knowing that the top one is done on my truck I am gonna change the o ring on the pickup tube and the lower sending unit as preventative maintenance even tho the problem is solved. Waiting myself till next oil change. But yea I believe that is your best bet. 7/10 that ends up being the issue. Definitely would know if the oil pump went...
@@BigSteve_Gaming187 my exact thought as well sir, 0 oil pressure would of been disastrous already, thank you…
quick question, I heard early models like mine didn’t come with that little filter, not completely sure though
Gotcha. Still probably the case. The filter is an added feature in the newer vehicles even tho there are some who have had the oil leak thru the sensor.
This video brings up the point of why they dont fix these common problems over the life of engines. Not just GM but many issues in different brands. Timing guides in 5.4 cam lifter shredding 5.7 or always one broken exhaust stud ls blocks. Some of these motors have multiple generations and the same basic faults. I work in a fleet garage where these engines see all the maintenance done on schedule as a rule and encounter the same issues over and over.
My 6.0 had the same problem. Worse in winter. I replaced it by loosening/lowering the front diff housing to make room to pull the pan.
My 5.3 was the two O-rings in the pickup tube.. Problem for me was, the truck was a 4WD, and to get the oil pan off, I needed to remove the transfer case in order to replace a couple of $2 O-rings.. Thanks GM.
Impeccable timing Richard. I’ve just bought my first LS powered vehicle. 2002 Tahoe with 300k miles and fluctuating/low oil pressure. Hahahaha wish me luck.
what was the culprit, brother?
@@edgarsi it was indeed the o-ring. I played with it for a while before I took it apart. A couple things I did the first was park it on a super steep hill nose to the top and see if pressure drops then park the other way nose down and see if pressure holds. The oil will cover the spot with the o ring and allow it to build normal pressure when you nose down. It was the case for me so I drove the truck around with the oil overfilled by 2 quarts so it would bring the level up to cover the oring at the pump and it would build good pressure. That was a good fix for the moment but it leaked a bit since the level was up to the front and rear main seal. Ended up doing a full reseal with the motor still in the truck. While I had it open scraped all the carbon from the heads and pistons, did a new cam, rings, rod bearings, and the slightly higher pressure pump from melling. Runs and drives perfect now took it on a couple road trips since then. Went wheeling at Anza borego good fun did well for a stock truck the g80 locker is great on uneven terrain.
@@SpecialAgentJamesAki Oh wow James, this was quite a journey. Thanks for reply! I just got my 04 truck and now facing this pressure problem. Known issue for the 5.3 vortec :( gotta try your "hill method" and if it shows - maybe replacing the o-ring cuz I don't think its a sending unit, then I 'll go from there.. Im not ready to invest into engine rebuild or anything major lol
@@edgarsi I hope it goes well. It’s definitely worth a shot at just doing the oring. Be carful not to upset the rear cover that holds the rear main seal it’s easy to make those leak when putting the oil pan back on. I think I could have gotten away with just doing the oring but I suffer from terminal 3 “while I’m in there” syndrome.
@@SpecialAgentJamesAki hehe same here man, and since they gonna drop the front diff and take all the stuff apart.. I thought about getting all them gaskets replaced at the same time.. cuz they are all super cheap, its the labor they charge for.. :( got my main rear leaking anyways... pump in the front, pickup tube on the bottom and rear main on the back of the engine... jeez and I so hoped to avoid this sht lol
I've got one reading about the same way and I've already done an overhaul with a pump and bearings. Mine was closer to 300,000 when I built it because of the DOD issues and eliminated all of that. I run it on Mobile 1 with A/C Filter. Retired GM Technician. I'm wishing I put a washer under the pressure/bypass after the fact.
My 2002 5.3L always had over 40 psi at idle, but never rose above ~57 psi at speed as read on the dash gauge. At 116000 miles it is apart now, no issue found with pickup or or O ring. No sludge or undue wear on anything. Will be replacing oil pump, sender and barbell along with all new bottom end seals.
The information could come in handy for us LS owners.
It's good to see you make a video of this. All quoted specifications aside if you see the oil pressure drop from where it normally runs you might as well check into it. More than likely the issue is caused by the cam bearings, but it could simply need a new pump or pump o'ring. Being a normal car guy that means a larger camshaft, timing chain, and Melling 10295 or 10296 if the cam bearings look ok. If not then it needs a crank rods and pistons to make it a 383 for testing purposes for your channel...
Yes❗️
An oil pump??? Oh, I hav a 2005 yukon, i hav low oil pressure when car is at red light..
Hey Richard I’m sorry I’m late to this but I got one for you I have a 08 trailblazer super sport 6.0 ls2. First motor started knocking on acceleration and oil pressure dropped to 20 psi. The engine ended up locking up at the dealership. GM replaced it $11,000 later No cost to me. Second motor GM Put in Corvette yellow top head LS2. New motor came with Corvette oil pan and sending unit. Mechanic had to put my old oil pan and my old sending unit on the new motor. Truck was ridiculously fast then I would notice zero oil pressure on start up. After a few revs oil pressure with Build back up to 40 psi. From cold starts to every start the truck would have zero oil pressure and tapping valves until I could get the pressure to rise(40psi). Now it’s tap tap tap squeak squeak squeak zero oil pressure all the time. I call GM and they want me to pay to have the engine broken down and looked at before they think about replacing the second engine. Truck has been sitting for over 4 years now with only 20,000 miles on new motor. Truck has used mobile one synthetic oil only and do you think by replacing the sending unit that it may build pressure?
I remember the mechanic showing me the trailblazer version picks up from the back and the new motor picks up from the front he had to bend and re-locate my sending unit. So frustrated.
I'm more worried about the gas gauge level LOL
Personally, I blame squirrels for the gas gauge level.
@@n8rivera74 the squirrels are infectious and spreading like a virus
Got a 125 miles left in the tank. No need to worry
Puuners Jabski lol , one of my friends is like that also , he lives rite beside a gas station and works only a few miles from there also so he'll run his pickup literally rite to the edge of empty lol
DontBe StupidAnymore 😂🐿🐿
Awesome video!, iam having the same exact problem and I watched several videos on here and said no way! My engine has a low oil pressure problem because it was rattling (valve training noise) at 5 or 10 lbs pressure! Thanks for sharing this with everyone!
Tech tip never let your gas go below 1/4 tank. The reason being that the gas cools the pump and when you run it low there's no gas surrounding the pump to cool the pump
I always do this too. I may never know if it helps but can't really hurt.
ESPECIALLY on these older style gm trucks lol
Definitely makes a difference in pump life and also fuel temps
As long as your oil pressure gauge reads an oil pressure above 5, i would strongly suggest you first pour into your oil an oil flush like Medic, run at idle for 5 minutes, then change oil, using a good oil filter, and put in as part of your oil a quart of Lucas oil stablizer!! Then see how the pressure is. This worked for me. My oil pressure went to 36 to 42 regardless if just starting or running for a half hour. I did not need a new pressure gauge and screen filter. With mileage over 200,000 do this once a year. Best wishes.
40 years ago, i learned that a can of engine degreaser and a hose (or pressure washer) makes working on stuff nicer AND easier. Just a suggestion
My old shop had a steam cleaner and the other guy that worked there thought it was faster not to use it. Even doing something like engine mounts or an oil pan is so much nicer when you can eat off the old one.
you can't use that stuff here and let it just wash into the gutter
Richard Holdener when are you moving out of Cali like everyone else lol? The whole motortrend crew needs to relocate also before it’s illegal to touch your car.
It’s rust protection
@@sicknick5882 The whole underside of my Trans Am ( 2nd gen ) has that very kind of rust protection.
My 2000 Suburban had same issue but fluctuated a bit more at hot idle. Easy to test for o-ring. Added more oil and backed up on car ramps. At hot idle pressure was steady 47 pounds. What that did was covered the pickup tube to pump junction with oil to stop sucking air. DON'T drive it overfilled though. I don't remember how much oil it took to cover it.
I like this idea. It can be pretty easy to tell when the hot oil pressure goes up a couple pounds
I have the Melling, ever since my oil pump failed because a burr got in the pressure relief valve. Fun job
Have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 4.8 that had a sudden oil pressure loss one winter. I drive short trips to work and town probably less then 3 miles each way. I found my oil was getting pretty sludgy from short trips. I switched to a higher quality oil and change it around 1000 miles which takes a long time for me to rack up. Has been fine ever since.
I found several causes in my stock 2010 5.3L but ultimately it was a clogged oil galley between the test port you show and the oil filter adapter where it bolts to the oil pan and block. Also the screen was clogged below the oil pressure sensor. I did a couple videos to try and help others diagnose their oil pressure issues.
The screen is also only on DOD motors from 07+ 1999-06 don’t have the screens
My 06 Suburban was getting wildly fluctuating readings on oil pressure. Sometimes going to 0 and staying there while driving. Replaced the oil sending unit and no change. Changed oil from 5w-30 quaker state/fram filter to 10W-40 Castrol high mileage, AC Delco filter, and a quart of Lucas oil stop leak. Pressure stays steady around 30 while idling and 40 or so while driving. Motor has 255K on it so just going to keep driving until something blows and will eventually drop in the replacement motor. Oh, and this girl leaks lots of oil. Shop quoted me $2000 to replace all the seals (rear main, etc). Decided to buy one of those big rubber garage mats and just wipe it up every week or so. If I'm dropping $2K it will be towards the replacement motor.
My 2006 4.8L w/ 322K is always helped by an oil change with Castrol GTX 5W-30. Before the oil change the pressure is 20 at hot idle and 35 on the freeway and it always goes up to 30 at hot idle and 45 on the freeway. I'm always glad to see it go back up. Also, I would think that 15W-40 would read higher than 5W-30. Anyway, Thank You for all the Cool Videos. I have learned so much from them and I appreciate your work. Today's T-shirt said "BeTHANKFUL" and I am! :-)
Should I understand that you've never had to change the pump o'ring?
@@swan9680 Correct, I bought an O-ring but have not installed it. I had a new OEM oil pressure sensor installed a few years back when the oil pressure kind of zeroed. Also, on my last oil change at 352K the oil pressure with the Castrol GTX 5W-30 (white jug) never really went down before the Oil Change Light cam on. That's the first time that has happened and I like it, haha. I assuming the Csstrol product has been updated and improved rather than my 4.8L healing itself. 🙂
I use/believe in oil sampling on my low performance V-6/4.3 chevy . After 700K miles in one 15+ litre Cummins the oil drain sample tells me more about the engine. Yes your oil pressure was low, and you could not find problem but cutting open your filter did not show up any issues. Yes, oil sampling would not have found the o ring failure, but at least you have peace of mind for other issues like fuel dilution ,water leaks and gaskets failures, etc !
I've seen 9 different LS engines with a spun #3 or #4 cam bearing in the last 7yrs. All but one were on synthetic oil. Both aluminum and iron blocks (half and half-ish). Lowest was 84k, highest was 324k. 4.8/5.3/6.0 and 6.2s. 3 had previously had pumps done elsewhere before they ended up at my shop. 5.3 MDI and 6.2 are most common I've seen. One 4.8, one lq4, 1 lq9, one 5.3 iron. Aluminum blocks seem to be worse overall.
I had one 5.3 the customer just kept it 5qts overfilled with oil and drove it 20K miles. Never really smoked, and had enough pressure at times to keep the top end lubed up...LOL>......
Nice to hear , I had one of those that two cam bearings spun and snapped the timing chain , nobody had heard of this so it was tough to figure out at first but after a total rebuild it has 45k on it and now it’s loosing oil pressure , going to replace the o ring , it has 18 lbs pressure at idle ?
My 04 Chevy pickup has done that for over 100,000 miles. It's nothing to worry about until the O ring totally gives up the ghost. Nice to know it's a relatively easy fix!
If your oil pressure is OK after a cold start and then slowly gets lower (too low, as in below 10psi) as the engine warms and the oil warms/thins, that's a sign that the issue is the camshaft thrust plate that Richard showed in the video. That built-in gasket on the back of the plate can wear down (mine was practically flat) and when the oil warms up and thins out, it slips passed that plate and drains passed the timing gears and goes straight down into the oil pan - effectively bypassing the oil pump - and you see the oil pressure drop to below 10. I was baffled by this for a while. The low oil pressure alarm would go off, I would pull over, turn off the car, let it sit for a minute or so, crank it back up, oil pressure was back to normal because the oil pan had refilled, I could drive anywhere from 1 mile to 10 miles and the alarm would go off again). I replaced what was probably a functioning oil pump (but it had nearly 200k miles on it), the oil sending unit and that little screen underneath, and the problem persisted. I know now the oil pump was fine, it just didn't have enough oil to circulate because that worn gasket was letting too much slip by and not be available to the pump.
That’s exactly what my Tahoe is doing!
@@DURONMYG it’s a big project for a driveway mechanic, but very doable. It takes some effort to get to that plate. I understand why a shop would charge so much for labor. This happened during the lockdown m, so I had time on my hands and I was motivated to save money by not paying all that labor to have someone else do it. I did not replace the timing chain , btw. There are a couple of helpful YT videos out there (once you sift through all the ones focusing on replacing the oil pump, oil pump pickup tube o-ring, sending unit/filter,…
Good luck!
@@kylelawdawg thats exactly what my 2013 Sierra is doing.....i have already replaced the sending unit as well as the oil pickup oring
@kyle Martin Hi. I'm down in Australia. Have a 2011 Toyota Kluger ( Highlander ) 550,000 kms. EXACT same symptoms as you had. If its thrust plate how many hours labor would you say for a shop mechanic to replace ?? I'll probably do what you did and also do Oil pump, O-ring AND maybe a oil flush for sludge. Might as well do the Oil pressure sensor as well. Any suggestions ??
@@TheTopend2 Hi Troy,
I did the work in my driveway during the COVID lockdown so I was in no particular hurry.
My best guess is that for a mechanic with a lift and proper tools it could perhaps be done in 2 to 4 hours. The biggest pain is having to drop the front differential to get to the last oil pump bolt and then having to take care to get the timing gears and chain reinstalled correctly. If your Toyota doesn’t have the same access issue for that last bolt, then maybe the differential can be left in place and the process may be quicker/easier. Hope that helps. I’m not a mechanic although after finishing that project my kids surprised me with a sticker that says “Certified TH-cam Mechanic” 🤣
All the best to you!
I had a similar problem yrs ago shortly after oil change a friend of mine suggested to put another filter on, that cured the problem I must have had a bad filter.
Same thing happened to my 06 silverado 5.3 with 313k miles on it. Turns out it was the O ring just like yours. Replaced it and cleaned the filter screen ect. now pressure is back up.
My 02 1500hd started and warmed up with essentially zero oil pressure for the better part of a year. The winter was absolutely brutal. It sounded like an army of angry little blacksmiths in there beating on internals. At that point the engine had 365,000 on it and was low on power anyhow. I ran it as long as I could stand and then traded that same worn out 6.0 to a hot rodder buddy for swapping the engine with a reman for me. I'm sure it was the o-ring culprit as it usually is and I could've "saved" the engine but with low power anyway I knew a swap was imminent. A fresh 5.3 is going in now so hopefully I can improve the mileage a tad. Keep up with the awesome content!!
How different would the oil pressure reading be from a sensor mounted from an oil cooler block off plate (right after the pump) vs. where the sender sits on the back top of the block? 5 PSI? 10 PSI?
we took it right after the pump in the side of the block
@@richardholdener1727 I appreciate the reply but my question is what would the difference be if you mounted the mechanical gauge on the top of the block instead of after the oil pump. Do you think you would lose a few psi?
I just picked up a 2010 Tahoe from a Copart auction with 200k miles. I notice that the oil pressure was a bit low on my way home and eventually had Zero, turns out, the filter was very loose and it was loosing lots of oil. Did a quick oil change in a parking lot and problems solved.
Great video! Very to the point and very helpfull. I have a 03 Yukon xl and my entire dash dosent work. I kno i know i need to get that fixed but honestly with the digital info center it tells me everything i need to know so i havnt wasted money fixing the dash. Well that being said i recently had a "low oil pressure" message come across. The level isnt low because i check every time i put fuel in it. But i have procrastinated on changing the oil lately due to covid and the cold and lets be real...me just being lazy. This 5.7 had been about the only thing reliable in my life lately. Lol... so i watched some videos and this one. Flushed the oil...learned how to cut open a filter...thanks to you. Luckily no metal shavings etc. And then did the flush with the different w like in this video and BAM she is right back up to the pressure i should be! No more stupid warnings. So thanks for taking the time to film this and share it. It helped me so much. Keep up the great videos. From your new friend.....Chandler
Richard I had a customer that had low oil psi and it turned out to be worn out cam bearings . I have also had a broken pressure regulator spring in the oil pump in older chevy small blocks. It muct be nice to be able to just slide under the truck to work on it . My fat head and gut says I need to use jack and jack stands. Glad it was just an oring.
My 350 when cold is around 60psi after it warms up it is like 20psi at idle and around 40psi under load
I bought a MINT 2004 LT Chev Silverado 6.0 with low oil pressure from a guy that knew mechanics... after watching 1000 videos I bought a New GM Oil O-ring and a GM Oil Pickup-tube W/O-ring (both O-rings were Red)... removing Oil pan I can see a Brand New Melling Oil Pump and New Melling Green O-ring... Seller told me he installed a New Oil Sender (found)... Pulled Melling Pump to see if Oil bypass piston was stuck (Nope)... Pulled Motor to rebuild hoping a Cam Bearing walked out a bit.... Oil and Filter was Super clean small pile of iron shavings about the size of a Dime found in sludge in pan, hoping that's the Cam Bearing hitting the crank... Engine ran Super Smooth with the low oil pressure when I bought the truck...
2nd cam bearing walked out and was touched by Crank... easy fix...
Any ideas for what would cause the pressure to constantly fluctuate between 40-55 lbs while cruising on the highway?
Replaced the sump o-ring already.
Aeriation bubbles
Does it have AFM? Those have a pressure relief in the pan that I've seen problems with
Sometimes the pick up tube rear brace is pulling the tube to the rear of the engine and sometimes it is holding it to the front of the engine so the guy installing the tube has to look for that issue. Also as the parts heat up, the expansion of the engine and the tube may not be optimal especially on the early LS engines that can also cause the tube to be pulled or pushed off center. This off center tube and o-ring can allow air to be sucked past the o-ring and blended with the engine oil. I am pretty sure, the fat o-ring was intended to prevent that from occurring. Anyway, when installing the pick up tube into the hole of the pump check the rear brace to see if the bolt hole is centered over the stud. If it's not, you can drill the hole slightly over size or try bending the bracket to align better with the mounting stud without pulling the tube in one direction or the other.
Also, there are brackets that can be installed over the tube where it enters the pump (see the link) that hold the pickup into the pump using two bolts. Also that early design pickup tube with the blue color o-ring is sometimes difficult to get them to seal. Just be sure the tube support bracket is not fighting the fit of the o-ring in the pump.
www.amazon.com/Billet-Pickup-Girdle-Support-551910/dp/B0784JPH59/ref=sr_1_4?crid=ENMSREI95GML&dchild=1&keywords=improved+racing+egm-500+ls+engine+oil+pump+pickup+tube+brace%2Fgirdle&qid=1600656102&sprefix=improved+racing%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-4
I am not saying this is the best one to get. There are many choices and all seem reasonable I just like the double bolt design over the single bolt crows foot design.
My 96 5.7 vortec got low oil pressure, I changed the oil and added half 20w-50 and half lucas stabalizer. That kept the engine going for many years.
Found out that in the aluminum ls blocks the lifter bores wear out and cause low oil pressure. A friend that owns a machine shop diagnosed a low pressure 6.2 and after 2 tear downs, found as much as .008-.009 lifter clearance. Factory spec is no more than .0015 I believe. They can be opened up and an oversize lifter used or can be sleeved.
Good video Richard. Being a Chevy tech and I agree with you the GM truck and suv have gauge/instrument panel accuracy issues.
By the way I notice the AWESOME frame picture on the wall over your right shoulder at 12:40. CORY MAC’s top fuel dragster.?. I have that model dragster. Keep up the awesome work on the GM LS engines
What was the oil pressure after the oil pickup O-ring was replaced?
Closer to about 40, mines been running lower after 137K so i just need to determine if i need red or green seal...
over 40 at ldle
I had low pressure on my 2020 5.3. 225000 miles. I had a bunch of sludge in the bottom of the pan. So much that when I took my plug out nothing camer out the the drain hole. My guess is that it was blocking the intake. I used to change my oil ever 5k with mobile 1. Now I change every 2.5k. and use a small coat hanger with a hook on the end and rake the sludge out of the hole. After about 5 oil changes using this technique I have removed most of the sludge and my oil pressure is back to normal.
I'm leaning towards cam bearings in my 07 LQ4. It came in with low op. I put a mech gauge on it at the sender and it was low. I put a new pump and o ring in it, it is still low at the sender , but good pressure at the pump. Ended up replacing the engine and keeping this one.
I know Rich's video is now 2 years old, but I just run across a recent one with a stock daily driver 6.0 with a low pressure issue. They were following the same advice but the mechanic took a flashlight. Took a good look inside his engine and noticed a one of the center cam bearing walked out in was causing a low oil pressure issue.
I'm afraid this is my issue. Built my 6.0L with btr truck norris cam, lifters, heads intake, headers the whole 9 yards. 6 months after the build was compete daily driving, I went from 40psi idle to 10psi and a furry oil drain plug. Still driving it this way and it's been almost a year since it dropped. I have an LQ9 I'll be building to swap in its place
I think people are missing the point at the beginning where Richard said his truck normally makes much more than 36 and he’s trying to figure out why the pressure drop happened. Not that 36 is too low, but that generally it was higher and now it is not. Of course 36 psi is fine warm at low idle.
yes-its the change
Exactly. This is the way the operator of a vehicle is supposed to react and that is why they put a gauge in the dash.
Yep that change would bother me too. I had a SBC that ran 18 PSI hot at idle and 60 at 7000. But it always ran that way from day 1 and never changed so I said F-it. But a chance is a red flag. Great video 👌
I think people are just joking about what gm claims is normal compared to what we are used too. I know i have changed heads on a few dozen tritons with ford within spec oil pressure.
I was just going to comment this too - no wonder so many vehicles end up in junkyards with the way a lot of these people think!
As a GM tech we always check at the sending unit first on the back of the block. 9 times out of 10 it’s the sending unit.
I always wire a piezio buzzer in parallel with the light or add one to a gauge system.
When 100 db beeper goes off .......
It gets your attention.
Even the felpro replacement oring is not a snug fit, we have a huge section of viton orings and i have been matching a more snug fit size to fit the bore and pickup tube. If u look at how much room there is for the oring u can actually stack 2 in there without an issue. I'm sure i will catch slack for that but, how soon do u want to do this job again??
there are many different size factory ls o-rings-they must be selected for the proper application. you don't need 2
the tell on the o-ring is that you will have NO pressure for the first second if it's been sitting for a couple of hours, as the tube has drained out. Another test is to get the truck seriously nose down and add enough extra oil to get oil over the top of the o-ring. Every LS I over 15 years old have done has had a bad o-ring. If it's not that, it's the center cam bearing walking out....
My truck (5.3) had very low oil pressure when it was cold ... still does actually, but now it has a bad rod knock and I haven't driven it in more than 2 years. I need to replace the engine but I'm disabled and can't do that myself anymore. either way though, my low oil pressure only started after Walmart changed the oil. They change the oil by vacuuming it out of the oil pan. Yeah they use a vacuum canister and hose to suck the oil out.
The original rapid oil change used to do that, they got sued so much they had to close their doors and sell off to valvoline.
Whaaaat? Richard drives a normal truck? After all his videos I thought his main mode of transportation was a dyno machine.
lol
Appreciate the know how on the oil pressure! My lifters makes that same noise. A couples of people said to pour diesel oil into it and it should fix the problem. I’m very hesitant to that whereas I believe the problem would persist ,cause further damage,or do nothing what so ever. What do u think? I wanna correct the problem
oil usedin diesel trucks won't change lifter noise-it is interchangeable with gas engines
I got around 50 psi when its cold but when it worms up I got between 15 ~ 17psi since 2015... I replaced the oil pump, O-ring and sending unit twice and the reading remain the same. L92 Escalade 2007. It is still alive because Im very conservative while driving but now im planning to boost the truck 👀
I have a 2008 esky. It was reading around 11-12 at idle hot. It would never go over 30 even a 3K RPM. I had the melling HV oilpump and o ring installed now it goes to 55-60 at cold idle but still dips to 22-24 at hot idle. It did stop my lifter tapping after driving on the highway. I'm still not sure how much life is left in it
at 212K miles.
@@memphistiger4647 don't worry, mine reads 17psi for the past 5years hot idle
Would have been nice to do the test to determine that it indeed was the pickup tube o-ring. Add additional oil to crankcase and raise rear of vehicle to submerge the area of the joint between pickup tube and oil pump. If there is a leak, oil pressure should increase back to normal.
In the video there was a light tapping knocking noise in your motor my truck has the same noise and lower oil pressure like yours. Did changing the o ring fix that noise? Was it low oil on the lifters causing it? Or is it soemthing else along with my lower oil pressure?
piston slap most likely when cold
We always use the orange o ring when doing pan gaskets at my shop. Most of em leave reading close to 60 psi at cold idle
I've never owned a GM product that idled over 40 lol. Ive owned at leas 10 LS motored vehicles.
Where your shop at
2003 suburban had low oil pressure,, I’d replaced d oil pump with a hi volume pump,, now gauge gors to 70 at idle, is it normal, of course, has new w40 oil
Most of the low oil pressure issues with older LS motors I’ve done have been the oil passage gasket in the pan!
Many times people wait too long to get it fixed and it causes major engine damage!
I got the 4.8 but not sure if its ok or be worried. It idles at around 38 oil pressure and doesn’t go up to much when im on the highway
Same era 318 technical info says you have an issue if it's below 6 psi
Thanks for the info, my LQ4 has had low oil pressure for a little while. It was also noisy on startup so I assumed sloppy lifters, but then I found the startup noise - leaky manifold gaskets caused by broken bolts. So now I need to dig into the oil pressure further.
My lm7 has the same issue. Lifter tick when cold due to broken manifold studs. What worries me, though, is that I get a top end rattle at about 3000 rpm under a load. It goes away by 4. I wouldn't be surprised if I have a collapsed lifter or bent pushrod since the truck is kind of gutless. Oh well. That's what Junkyards are for. (:
is 40 psi at idle with hot engine considered low?! i am confused
I would be curious to see if there would be any difference in the cluster auger with a different sending unit and also replacing the stepper motor.
Mine used to run at 40 at Idle then dropped to 25 at idle. I just chalked it up to the 400k on it.
Mine too 155000
I have found the screen under the sending unit plugged showing low psi. Have you ever shimmed the regulator in the oil pump to increase psi or port the pump housing to help flow?
What’s up man always good to see a video first thing in the morning
Morning!
The Allen bolt under the power steering where you put that fitting for your op gauge can that port be used as oil supply to my turbo?
yes
The oil pressure gauge in my S10 has always read just below 20psi at idle with the oil up to operating temp. Under acceleration or cruise it hold about 45-50. I did find the sender to be leaking some oil a few years back and replaced it. No change in pressure. The truck currently has 489,000 miles and still has the same pressures.
Dang!
@@christianmotley262 update: I passed 500k a few weeks ago. Still holding good pressure 👌.
What engine you got my Sonoma is the same on the 4 cylinder. I always say every year it’s gonna die. And still running strong
@@Username-ng8jy it's the 2.2. Currently up to 520k.
@@BucktailFishing hell yeah man.
Had same problem in our 01 yukon. Tried the pressure sensor but ultimately the final fix was the o-ring on the pickup tube. I would get a lot of lifter rattling on start up due to very slow buildup of oil pressure. It would take almost 10 seconds for the engine to build oil pressure on cold start. After o-ring replacement that time dropped to 2 seconds.
Ive got a 08 5.3L silverado. It seems i need to take off the suspension partially to get the oil reservoir off to get to these tubes. Ive only taken the metal cover and drained the oil so far. Hope it’s just the o ring. I noticed a drop a few weeks ago, but today it’s at 0.
Nice to hear that Richard’s LS has the trademark “lifter-tick” just like the rest of us...
same mine ended up being the pickup tube o-ring and the back plate on block for the main seal on the internal top part and also check the barbell on back of block its only there for production hole drilling so u don't bypass filter etc. so if orings are old it will bleed by and cause low pressure too lastly the plunger under pressure spring on pump if it is stuck open it will allow oil to recirculate in pump and never go to engine..
IT WAS THE O RING
What size is the fitting
What are some of the thicker oil additives you guys use? I have a LS with 300k miles. Oil pressure isn't horrible, but not great. Already replaced the o ring which did help. I'd rather just run a thicker oil or additives if it helps on an older engine.
I tried stabilizer
I've always ran STP forever. Seems to work well and sometimes stops a valve cover leak.
Why the shorty oil filter instead of a tall one?
For my Saab 97x (yes a Saab had a lh6 5.3!) it was the oil pickup ring. But unlike your truck the saabs oil pan is like a 6 hour venture. Might as well replace everything else while in there haha had thr same issue hot oil pressure was under 20. Rev it up and oil pressure drops and as soon as you let off it would spike again.
Richard wheres the after shot of of the mechanical gauge post o-ring replacement? What do you have now? 50,60,70 psi? Dont leave me hangin like this!!!!
it has 40+ at idle and 60+ when reved
That is more than factory spec pump bypass.
But ok...